Garden planting scheme. Garden layout (36 photos) in combination with the general layout of the site. Laws of rational distribution

Preface

In the struggle for the harvest, the owner’s diligence land plot- the most important factor, but not the only one. In order for the season to be as productive as possible, reasonable garden planning and soil preparation are required. What rules are used to guide this?

Garden and vegetable garden planning: purpose and first steps

When planning an estate, the following goals are pursued:

arrange the house, garden and vegetable garden so that the latter is in the shade as little as possible;
avoid the proximity of incompatible plants;
place all objects in accordance with the standards in relation to the red line, neighboring areas and water sources;
use all available space with maximum effect.

The site plan is drawn on paper. A convenient scale is 1:100. The drawing will turn out to be large, so you should prepare a sheet of whatman paper.

All the necessary dimensions are applied to the drawing, the planned objects are indicated - flower beds, gardens, paths, buildings, etc.

Objects already existing on the site are drawn, and new ones are cut out from another sheet of paper. By arranging them differently on the plan, it will be possible to consider several arrangement options.

If there is no house or outbuildings on the estate yet, planning begins with them. The following distribution of territory is considered optimal:

house and adjacent residential area: 20%;
outbuildings: no more than 15%;
garden and vegetable garden: at least 65%.

When placing the house and outbuildings, take into account the following:

Areas near the road are preferable - it is easy to get here. The house is located closer to the street so that it is visible, the outbuildings are behind it, in the depths of the site.
A front garden with ornamental plants or berry bushes is laid out in front of the house.
It is advisable that the buildings be located on the north side of the site, without shading the garden.

When planning, it is necessary to maintain the distances specified by the standards:

from the house to the red line - 5 m, to the fence of the neighboring plot - 3 m;
from the windows of the house to household objects on the neighboring site - 6 m;
minimum distances between buildings (for fire safety reasons): stone - 6 m, wooden - 15 m, mixed - 10 m;
from the fence to the animal shed - 4 m;
from the fence to other outbuildings - 1 m.

The playground is located so that it is clearly visible.

The playground for children should be clearly visible from the windows of the house

no shadow from the trees fell on the garden;
the garden protected the vegetable garden from the prevailing wind.

The finished drawing of the site allows you to approximately determine the volume and cost of soil preparation work.

Removing stumps and bushes

In a residential area, a stump can be left as decorative element or decorate it in the form of a table, chair or element of a children's playground.

a little imagination - the stump turns into a funny decoration of the site

In other cases, the stumps are uprooted. They do this in different ways:

Manually. The stump is dug up, exposing the upper roots, then they are cut off with an ax or shovel. Next, the stump is turned around vertical axis until the central root breaks. This method requires significant physical strength. It’s easier to uproot stumps with a winch. The process also begins with digging and cutting the roots, then the stump is hooked and pulled out, simultaneously cutting off the roots that appear from the ground.
With the help of technology. This method is used when there are several stumps. Along with traditional equipment - excavators, bulldozers, tractors - special stump crushing machines are used. The work of the latter is expensive, but they do not spoil the landscape.
Chemical reagents.

The wood of a stump is corroded by the following substances:

“Roundup” product: some time after treatment, the remains of the stump are easily uprooted;
urea: pour into drilled holes, fill with water and wrap the stump with polyethylene;
sodium or potassium nitrate: used in the same way, it corrodes even deep roots.

The effect of saltpeter extends to other plants within a radius of 0.5 - 1 m, so before using it, the most valuable of them should be replanted.

Shrubs in small quantities are uprooted with a shovel and a pick, having previously dug up. In large areas they are removed mechanically in three stages:

cut with a gasoline rotary brush cutter;
the roots are milled using a stump crusher;
roots are removed using a tractor with a special plow, or less often with an excavator.

Chemicals used to kill bushes are called arboricides. These include the same “Roundup”, as well as “Tornado”, “Octopus”, “Fighter” and others. Most of them are based on the herbicide Glyphosate.

Drainage device

Often required in low-lying areas that are heavily flooded during rain. Some literally turn into a swamp and then dry out for a long time.

If there is a slight water cut, proceed as follows:

on the border of the site at its lowest point, they dig a well 2.5–3 m deep;
several trenches 1 m deep are dug on the site, directed from the upper zones to the well (the slope is 3–4 cm/m);
fill the trenches halfway with crushed stone or pebbles (suitable construction garbage and uprooted stumps) and cover the top with geotextiles;
lay fertile soil on top of the geotextile.

The trenches can be filled with stones and completely, laid on top of sand or boardwalk paving slabs- these will be garden paths.

In case of severe watering, a complete drainage system is installed:

On areas without slope drainage well turns out to be especially deep. Then its walls are strengthened with supports and concreted. As the water is filled, the wells are pumped out with a pump.

Ground leveling

It is extremely inconvenient to work in an area riddled with uneven areas and you have to waste a lot of water for irrigation. Therefore, it is advisable to level the soil. In the simplest case, when the height difference is small, the area is cultivated, then leveled with a board or ladder, which is pulled by a rope.

If the terrain is very pronounced, they resort to removing soil from the hills and adding it to the depressions.

If the site has complex terrain, it will not be possible to level it without special equipment

Doing so more correctly in the fall: the soil will compact over the winter and in the spring it will be clear where improvement is required. Alignment is carried out in three stages:

Mark the area. It is necessary to drive pegs into the ground at certain intervals and pull a cord between them - strictly horizontally and at the same height. To do this, marks are first made on the pegs using a water level (a transparent polymer tube filled with water).
Using the cord as a guide, they determine the hills and depressions, then transfer the soil. For large volumes, technology is used.
After waiting for the soil to settle (it will take a couple of weeks), trim the area with a rake.

The transferred soil easily erodes: in the absence of forest protection, the area must be closed with a fence.

Terracing

In areas with a slope of 15 degrees, horizontal steps - terraces - are formed. They are built from top to bottom, each time using the cut soil as the basis for the underlying step.

Each terrace is supported by a wall, which is called a retaining wall. A retaining wall is a critical element: if its strength is insufficient, the soil may collapse with serious consequences. Therefore, construction should be carried out by an experienced specialist. The walls are built from stones and bricks, logs and even steel sheets on supports. A foundation is required.

After the steps are formed, reinforced concrete retaining walls are constructed

The maximum permissible height for a terrace is 1.5 m. The lower the height, the less durable and, accordingly, more expensive retaining walls will be needed.

To climb from one terrace to another, stairs are arranged. The condition for choosing materials and design for them is a harmonious combination with appearance retaining wall. For safety reasons, stairs are equipped with handrails.

Installing terraces on a slope is a costly undertaking, but such a site looks impressive and is illuminated better than a flat site (if located on a southern slope).

Removing turf

If the area is used for planting cultivated plants for the first time, the turf on it ( upper layer soil with grass) it is advisable to turn it into a valuable fertilizer. They do it like this:

in the spring, the turf is cut with a shovel into pieces 10 cm thick and measuring 20x40 cm;
inverted (roots up) the turf is stacked in stacks with a maximum width and height of 1.2 m, sprinkling each layer with lime;
During the summer, the stacks are watered with liquid manure or at least water, and loosened 2-3 times.

On next year turf soil is used as fertilizer. If there is excess clay, it is diluted with sand.

If there are molehills, it is recommended to prepare turf soil from them - here it has high breathability and does not contain harmful insects.

Turf using bayonet shovel cut into squares, carefully removed and stacked upside down

Organization of watering

For irrigation, a water pipeline is laid to the site. For year-round use (homesteads with permanent habitation), pipes are laid in trenches below the freezing depth. If they are polypropylene (PP), they must have a special reinforced design. You can recognize such pipes by orange color. For seasonal use, pipes are laid on the surface. There is also a special UV-resistant PP for this purpose. It is distinguished by its black color.

In areas where vehicles pass, pipes are laid on the surface in trays with durable covers that protect them from damage.

If there is no connection to a centralized water supply, when planning a garden, arrange autonomous system water supply, using as a source natural body of water, well or well. Used to supply water pumping station. Unlike a household one, it should be equipped not with a pressure switch, but with a flow sensor. When the tap is opened, the pump turns on automatically and runs indefinitely until the user turns off the water.

Water from a well or borehole should be checked for salt concentration: if there is an excess of salts, do not use water for irrigation - it causes salinization of the soil (hardens like stone).

Modern watering systems provide completely autonomous operation: soil moisture is analyzed by a sensor and, based on its signal, the equipment turns on when necessary.

Soil preparation

The soil on the site is tested for acidity. The exact pH will be determined by analysis in a special laboratory, where several samples should be taken with different zones plot. It can be approximately determined at home by pouring vinegar into a portion of the soil. Test results:

bubbles are visible on the wetted surface of the sample - the soil is neutral;
the sample absorbs vinegar without any manifestations - sour.

Soil pH is also determined by the vegetation growing on it:

alkaline: coltsfoot, clover (white or ordinary), nettle, etc.;
neutral: horsetail, mint, buttercup, etc.;
sour: heather, plantain, sedge, ivan-da-marya, etc.

Reduce acidity (deoxidation) by adding compost, manure humus and wood ash. For the same purpose, dolomite flour and fluff lime are added, but this should be done in the fall.

Increase acidity by adding fresh sawdust and peat.

If the soil is not fertile, as evidenced by sparse vegetation, black soil or at least peat is brought to the site.

Garden planning

At the stage of planning a garden on a personal plot, the owner makes a list of all the trees and shrubs that he intends to plant. The number of seedlings is determined based on the available area, while the space for each of them is allocated taking into account the size of the adult tree. Plants average size require 2–3 m2, the largest - 4 m2.

Simple layout plan orchard will significantly speed up the work on its implementation

The compilation of the list and selection of location is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the crops:

The pear is the tallest fruit tree, so it can be planted in a shaded place, for example, behind a bathhouse. In a few years the tree will rise higher than her.
Cherries prefer acidic soil.
A suitable place for plum trees is one where the prevailing winds blow away the snow. Under snowdrifts higher than 40 cm, this tree succumbs.
For pear and apple trees, choose a place with low level groundwater- 2 m or more. Otherwise, they will live no more than 10 years.
For stone fruit crops, the minimum permissible groundwater depth is 1.5 m.

When choosing crops, the climate of the region is also taken into account. In the southern regions (Crimea, Astrakhan, Rostov regions, etc.) any perennials. Only a few, more prone to cool climates, grow poorly in hot conditions:

blueberry;
blueberry;
coniferous trees.

The following are considered traditional for such latitudes:

peach;
quince;
apricot;
cherries;
almond; Walnut;
grape.

Can be bred and exotic plants, for example, the mulberry, the berries of which are very tasty. Fruit trees are complemented by any berry bushes - gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, red and black currant, chokeberry.

IN middle lane(Bryansk, Tula, Voronezh region etc.) and the northern part (Altai, Buryatia, part of Karelia, etc.) when selecting crops, the so-called winter hardiness is taken into account - the ability to tolerate low temperatures. The following varieties are planted here (the maximum permissible sub-zero temperature is indicated in brackets):

Honey pear (-30 0 C): late variety.
Decor pear (-25 0 C): fruits ripen in September.
White-red columnar pear (-30 0 C): early variety.
Apricot Prince March (-30 0 C).
Red and black columnar cherries (-30 0 C).
Queen Mary cherry (-30 0 C): gives a good harvest, growing even in the shade.
Arbat apple tree (-30 0 C): the fruits ripen in early autumn.
Early grape varieties: Arcadia, Arch, Souvenir (-30 0 C).

There are two ways to plan a garden:

When planting regularly, the following distance is maintained between seedlings:

dwarf varieties: between trees in a row - 2 m, between rows - 3 m;
semi-dwarf: 3 m and 4 m, respectively;
Large varieties: 4 m and 5 m, respectively.

To prevent fruit trees from casting a shadow on the garden, they are planted on the north side of the site. At the same time, the tallest ones, such as apple, pear, and walnut trees, are planted on the northwestern side, and the shortest ones, such as cherries, apricots and plums, are planted on the northeastern side. The fact is that photosynthesis occurs most intensively in the first half of the day. In addition, 12% more light falls on the surface of the earth at this time compared to the afternoon period, since the atmosphere is more transparent in the morning. Consequently, with such tree planting at the very favorable time Low days will not be obscured by high ones.

Trees are planted in spring or autumn. The choice of planting time depends on the variety: some take root better in autumn period, others - in the spring. In the middle zone and northern regions, only the most winter-hardy varieties are planted in the fall, since young seedlings are quite vulnerable to frost.

The diameter and depth of the hole depend on the type of soil:

fertile soil: 0.5x0.5 m;
infertile: 1x1 m.

For spring planting pits are prepared in the fall: this is due to the fact that as much as possible is required early boarding- until the buds bloom.

If possible, berry bushes are planted between the vegetable garden and fruit trees. The timing of planting depends on the form in which the seedling was purchased:

Container (planted in a small container). Planted in spring or autumn depending on the variety.
With bare root system. Planted only in autumn.

The planting scheme for berry bushes includes the following stages:

Holes are made in the ground. Their depth when planting seedlings in containers is 1.5 times the height of the container. In the case of a bare root system, they are guided by a mark indicating how deep the seedling was during cultivation. The pit is also made 1.5 times deeper.
Immediately before planting (an hour and a half), the seedlings are prepared: in containers - watered abundantly, with bare roots - placed in containers with water.
The bottom of the hole is covered with humus and dug up with a pitchfork. The soil extracted during the formation of the hole (it is also used for backfilling) is also mixed with humus.
Having straightened the roots of the seedling so that they grow in all directions, it is lowered into the hole and sprinkled with a mixture of earth and humus. Then the earth is slightly compacted.
The next shrub is planted at a distance of 70–80 cm.

Video: when is the best time to plant seedlings of fruit and berry trees?

Vegetable garden layout

Most vegetables grow safely in different climatic zones. But you need to choose zoned varieties. Otherwise, the plants may wither from the heat or stop growing due to the cold. A short summer or lack of moisture will not allow you to harvest heat-loving varieties. In regions with such climatic conditions, it is advisable to build greenhouses and greenhouses.

When planning a range of crops, preference should be given to plants that require the same conditions for growth: this makes it easier to care for the city.

Productivity depends on where and how the greenhouse is installed. The most successful location is considered:

On higher ground, where it is drier.
In a well-lit place, not shaded by buildings or trees.
In the east-west direction (latitudinal).

This arrangement has the following benefits:

the beds are illuminated evenly;
The sun's rays fall on the wall of the structure almost perpendicularly, therefore the reflection coefficient is very small.

Installing a greenhouse in the north-south direction (meridian), in which a significant portion of the light is reflected and the beds are illuminated unevenly (the north side is worse), is acceptable only for greenhouses used exclusively in summer and south of the 60th latitude. In such conditions, the sun rises high and the disadvantages of the meridian location appear minimally.

It is correct to position the greenhouse from north to south - in this case it will be illuminated by the sun throughout the daylight hours

Vegetable beds are located in places not shaded by trees during the day. Orientation to the cardinal points depends on the water content of the area:

in damp low-lying areas: the beds are formed in the direction from south to north so that the row spacing is warmed by the sun;
in dry areas: choose the direction “west - east” so that the row spacing remains in the shade and retains moisture longer.

According to the height of the beds, they are divided into:

in-depth: used when it is not possible to frequently water the garden;
at ground level: standard option, for normal conditions;
raised (soil is poured into wooden frames): do not require soil preparation on the site, they are quickly warmed up by the sun (relevant for northern regions).

In addition to horizontal ones, vertical beds are also arranged: this arrangement of plants helps to significantly save space in small areas

Crop rotation

Plants differ in chemical composition, accordingly, each of them extracts its own set of microelements from the soil. Rational use of soil consists of alternating various types plants in order to extract microelements evenly and give them the opportunity to recover. If you plant the same type of plant on a plot year after year, the soil will become depleted. In addition, pathogenic microorganisms characteristic of this plant develop in it.

The crop rotation cycle is 4 years. That is, each crop is replanted in a certain area only after 3 years. Based on this, the plot is divided into 4 parts, crops of 4 types are planted on them and then they are alternated according to the table.

Table 1: Crop rotation of garden crops traditionally grown in the garden

Plant compatibility

Some plants planted nearby inhibit each other, others do not have any mutual effect or even contribute to the development of the neighbor. So, if you have beans and peppers or carrots and dill next to each other, you cannot expect a high harvest. Corn, pumpkin and beans, on the other hand, go well together. Full information on crop compatibility is displayed in the table.

Table 2: plant compatibility

Video: mixed plantings

Growing plants in a limited area

A small plot requires a special approach so that all areas are used with maximum effect. Here's what to do in such conditions:

The garage is located right next to the road so as not to divert usable area at the entrance to it.
Berry bushes are planted around the perimeter of the site. When planting trees at the edge, one would still have to step back from the property line so that the branches do not block the street, and then the outermost strip would be unoccupied. It’s not scary if some of the bushes end up in a shady place - the lack of sun has almost no effect on their growth and productivity.
Instead of the usual fruit trees, columnar ones are planted. In such plants, the branches are directed upward, which allows them to be planted at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from each other. On a plot of 5 sq. m can accommodate up to 15 columnar trees.
Plants that can grow in partial shade are planted among the trees. In the southern regions, even pumpkins, watermelons, zucchini and cucumbers can produce a good harvest under such conditions. In the central and northern regions there are only salads and greens. Thus, rhubarb, lettuce, sorrel, parsley, cilantro, spinach, Odessa curlew, watercress and others grow well in shaded areas. Ramson, which grows naturally under the trees, is a rich source of vitamins. Borage and garlic are also unpretentious to lighting conditions. You can also plant beets: the root crops will be smaller, but more tender and easier to prepare.

Among the berry bushes that are not afraid of shade are fragrant raspberries, blue honeysuckle, chokeberry, viburnum, and serviceberry.

Before spraying fruit trees, the greenery planted between them must be covered with polyethylene.

How to decorate your garden plot

In addition to performing a purely utilitarian function - growing crops - a garden plot can become a beautiful natural corner. Residents of the southern regions have the greatest opportunities for decorating their garden. The following ornamental plants are traditionally grown here:

In the middle zone, gardens are decorated with plants:

Conifers: berry yew (form hedges), dwarf species cypress and juniper.
Perennial flowers: hostas, callas, bergenia, heuchera.
Flowering shrubs: lilac, honeysuckle, weigella, paniculata hydrangea, rhododendron, garden jasmine, solar forsythia.
Plants for vertical gardening(form green wall): kampsis, clematis, girl's grapes. The latter, having high winter hardiness, does not require shelter in cold weather.

In northern latitudes, two methods are used to improve the garden:

Local plants are planted - dwarf birches growing in this region berry bushes, raspberry trees, coniferous crops.
Ornamental plants are planted in containers and hidden in greenhouses for the winter, winter gardens or basements. In this case, the choice of crops is not limited, as long as the plants have small roots.

Terraced areas on slopes have great artistic potential. In addition to ornamental plants, they are decorated with waterfalls made of natural stone retaining walls, beautiful platforms and stairs.

Video: the best ideas and crafts for your own garden

A good harvest can only be achieved in the right way. organized site. As you can see, before mastering it you have to answer whole line questions. By following our advice, the reader will be able to get the maximum benefit from his possessions.

A visit to a dacha should imply not only work, but also a pleasant rest. Everything will fall into place if you act according to the principle: we are not for the dacha, but the dacha is for us. Based on this, the arrangement of the site should begin. Here we will tell you how to properly plan a vegetable garden so that everything fits, and the labor intensity garden work It wasn't very stressful.

It is impossible to properly plan a vegetable garden without knowing what is best and in what places it will grow on the site. And to find out, you need to determine the composition of the soil. The most important characteristic— acidity (pH). Depending on this indicator, the soil may be:

neutral;
sour;
alkaline.

The easiest way to solve this issue is to take soil samples from different points of the site and take them to the laboratory, but you can also conduct such a study yourself:

Take a couple of spoons of earth and place it in a jar.
Pour vinegar into the container. If bubbles appear, your soil is neutral, but when vinegar enters the ground like water - without any reaction - the soil is definitely acidic. You will have to tinker with such soil - add ash and lime to deoxidize it.

Vegetables generally produce good yields on soils with an acidity level of 5.8 to 7.2. The result obtained will be the starting point when planning the types of crops to plant. Optimal value The pH values for the most common vegetables are summarized in this table:

Name of culture	Recommended pH value
Potato	5,5-6,3
Tomatoes, peppers	6,3-6,7
Lettuce, beans	6,0-6,5
Beet	6,5-7,5
Carrot	5,5-7,0
Onion	6,4-7,9
Melon, cucumber, zucchini, zucchini, squash	6,4-7,0
Radish	5,5-7,0
Celery, parsley	5,5-7,0
Sorrel	5,0-6,0
Cabbage, peas	6,2-7,5
Corn, beans, dill	6-7,0

Rules for planning a vegetable garden

In order for garden beds to produce the maximum harvest, not only the composition of the soil is important, but also their location. Therefore, we adhere to the following rules:

When there is a choice, we place the garden on level ground. If the entire site is located on a slope, then its southern or southeastern side is preferable.
We are thinking over the irrigation system. Water must be in an accessible place.
If you are so lucky that all the soil on the site is solid heavy clay, we bring in sand or peat, and best of all, black soil.
We place the beds at a decent distance from tall trees, the shade will not benefit the plants.
We place the beds in the direction:

north-south, if the site is in a damp lowland, so that the sun shines most of the day and heats the soil;
east-west, when the soil is dry and light, while the shadow cast by plants on the rows will retain moisture longer;
if there is a slope, we create beds across it;
in case of a completely uneven area, place the garden on south side, and the garden is on the north.

Creating a planting plan

When learning from scratch personal plot, garden, vegetable garden, it is impossible to do without preliminary planning, otherwise it will not be a place of rest, but a field for continuous, and most importantly, unproductive work of digging out rubble. We proceed in order:

Drawing an ownership plan. If there is already something there, we put everything on the drawing. As a result, the plan should contain information such as size, relief, shape, and orientation of the site in relation to the cardinal points.
We break up the area. To get a real picture, we identify residential, utility, garden, and vegetable garden zones, and even determine the length of the shadow cast by existing or future buildings and trees. As a result, we will find out which place is illuminated all day, where it is partially illuminated, and where the sun’s rays do not reach at all. On a large estate, the vegetable garden is usually placed in the background or middle ground.
Let's start directly modeling the vegetable garden. It's easier to do this on a computer using special program, but if you are not in harmony with it, then we cut out figures from paper, sign the names of crops, other attributes, type of box, water container, etc. Having placed them on the plan, we manipulate them until we find the most suitable option .
We figure out how much and what to plant, and how many beds will be needed for this. Main criterion- family needs.

Correct beds

Even a place like a vegetable garden should not cause melancholy with anticipation of hard work. Of course, if it is a continuous plantation with “torn” edges, then so be it. Therefore, we arrange beautiful, even, clearly defined ridges, taking into account ease of processing and rational use in compliance with natural principles.

Raise or lower

There are ridges:

flush with the ground;
in-depth;
raised.

Which one is better depends on natural conditions:

If you do not have the opportunity to regularly water the plantings, and there is not enough precipitation in your area, then it is better to deepen the ridges and leave the paths at ground level.
If there is excessive dampness in the area, we arrange high beds.

Shape and width of the bed

The ridges are made in any shape - rectangular, triangular and even oval and round, as long as access to them is convenient. The convenient width is from 60 cm to 1 m, and the length, as it turns out, does not affect anything. We plan the paths to be wide so that a garden cart can pass along them. We lay them out with bricks, stones, tiles, cover them with crushed stone, pebbles, or let the grass grow, and then cut them regularly. Ridges with boards, slate, bricks, in general, with whatever you have at hand.

Rules for crop rotation

So that vegetables always make you happy quality harvest, observe such an important point in planning a vegetable garden as crop rotation. When laying, keep in mind that any crop returns to its original place after 3-4 years, so we divide the area into 4 parts and move every year, adhering to one direction and observing the following sequence:

Name	Favorable predecessors	Neutral predecessors
Tomato	cauliflower, cucumbers, greens, turnips	white cabbage, beets, onions
Potato	all legumes, cucumbers, early cabbage and cauliflower	carrots, greens, beets, carrots, white cabbage
Table beet	early potatoes, greens, cucumbers,	carrots, early cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, onions
Onion	early cabbage, cauliflower, cucumbers, all legumes, early potatoes	tomatoes, late cabbage, beets
Beans and other legumes	early potatoes, onions, cucumbers, cabbage	tomatoes, greens, green manure, root vegetables
Cauliflower and early cabbage	early cucumbers, legumes	tomatoes, carrots
Middle and late cabbage	early potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, legumes	tomatoes, carrots
Pumpkin, zucchini, squash	garlic, legumes, onions, cabbage	beets, cucumbers, early potatoes, greens
Greenery	cucumbers, onions, legumes, early and cauliflower	carrots, late cabbage

Combined plantings

There are crops that not only get along well in the same garden bed, but also help each other grow well. From the table below you will find out which plants go well together and which simply cannot tolerate each other:

Here are a few interesting options garden layout, photos taken in areas with different topography:

Features of the layout of a vegetable garden of 6 acres

It’s good to plan when the plot is large, but on 6 acres you can’t really roam around - that’s what many people think. With an illiterate approach, there will be little space on 10 acres, but if everything is done wisely, then 0.6 hectares will be enough to create comfortable conditions for yourself. Here are some tips:

To prevent the passage to the garage or shed from taking up a lot of space, never build them in the depths of the estate.
Do not place the garden in the south of the plot, it will cover the entire garden with shadow. Accordingly, the shadow of the house should not fall on the garden. It is better to locate a recreation area in this area.
Place the barbecue or grill so that the smoke does not envelop the entire area, i.e. on the windward side.
Make beds non-standard shape, such flower beds with vegetables. They will bring practical benefits and decorate the site.
Set up a mini-garden near the gazebo or barbecue. Just knock down a block from a board, pour earth into it or weave a fence to limit the bed, plant flowers around the perimeter, for example, asters bloom almost until frost.
With a significant slope, the bottom of the plot will always be wet, which means this is not the best place for a vegetable garden. Exit in the construction of terraces with a drainage system.

Here are 6 acres of photos on the topic of garden planning, proving that small size plot is not an obstacle to implementation creative ideas When planning, you just need to think everything through carefully.

To summarize, we can say: it’s better to suffer with planning once than to suffer every year from the fact that garden crops grow poorly. Plan your garden and you won’t have to do extra work.

Any novice summer resident is interested in the question of what to plant in the garden. After all, there are a lot of crops grown in our country. In addition, it is not enough to simply plant and grow all the vegetables and herbs in a row. It is necessary to take into account some nuances, for example, the correct “neighborhood” of plants. It is also important to know where exactly a particular crop should be planted on the site, because some plants require light places, while others require shade. If a gardener knows all the nuances of planting plants in country beds, then he will receive beautiful plot(And his landscape design) and a good harvest (more details on how to plant and grow any plant mentioned below can be found in the articles on the site).

Planning of plantings in a garden plot

Before planting a summer cottage, you need to think through and calculate everything. Initially, we decide what exactly we want to see in our garden.

Several questions will help a novice gardener decide, the answers to which will be the starting point for the future.

1. What vegetables and berries are preferable for the whole family?

2. Are you planning to can vegetables for the winter?

3. How much time do you plan to spend on the site?

4. Is its territory well lit by the sun?

5. Are they suitable? climatic conditions for growing berries vegetable crops?

These factors are the most important. There are, of course, other nuances, for example, the quality of the soil, its drainage, but they can be solved. The land can be improved and drainage provided. And when the site is in constant shade, if the sun is hidden by the foliage of trees, for example, or in the area where the dacha is located there is cold climate, then in this option there will be no luck, and it will still not be possible to grow all the crops that you would like.

It is necessary to plan the site on a large sheet of paper, preferably millimeter paper, in this case you can clearly see what, where and how best to place it.

Necessary to plan landings

1. Draw a plan of the dacha area on paper in A3 format. A sketch will not help in this case, so it is better to make accurate measurements.

2. Mark on the site plan all existing buildings and those that are planned: barn, house, outbuildings, gazebo, swimming pool, flower beds, place for compost, recreation area (barbecue). If you plan to set up a vineyard, then it must be noted separately.

3. Make several copies of the resulting territory plan.

4. In free space, zones should be designated based on the degree of their illumination: well-lit areas and shadow.

5. Mark the source of water.

6. Select locations for greenhouses or greenhouses for vegetables. They will require a large area. Also, do not forget about the distance on the paths (minimum 30 cm).

Choosing a place for crops

To understand what to plant and where, you need to divide all vegetables into:

Demanding

TO a large number nutritional elements. These include:

Tomatoes,
cabbage,
cucumbers,
celery,
pumpkin,
zucchini,
pepper (both sweet and bitter).

Moderately demanding

Such vegetables will have to be fed once a season, they are:

Kohlrabi,
eggplants,
radish,
salad,
potato,
carrots (please),
beet ().

Undemanding

Such plants will need a minimum amount of nutrients. These include:

Seasonings (dill, basil, sage and others),
beans,
peas.

Drawing up a planting plan

To compose it correctly, you should divide the garden into 4 zones:

1. For perennials (garden strawberries and strawberries). The berries should be replanted every few years.

2. For planting demanding crops.

3. For plants that need feeding once a season.

4. For undemanding crops.

After a season, demanding vegetables will need to be planted in the area where the seasonings were located (undemanding ones), medium-demanding vegetables will need to be placed in the area from the demanding ones, and the area where the average-demanding vegetables were sitting in the past season will be freed up for seasonings. It is worth noting that you need to alternate vegetables annually, as this helps to obtain maximum yield, and the soil has time to rest.

For example, cabbage (we start, of course, with) can be placed in the place of nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers), cucumbers, onions (and we generally exclude nightshades themselves when placed next to each other).

It is advisable to sow cucumbers in place of peppers or spinach, carrots - peas or tomatoes.

Which garden crops require beds and which do not?

Some vegetables require a separate area, since they can only grow well in their own beds. In addition, some types of vegetables cannot grow “in the neighborhood” at all.

But there are also plants that do not require a separate place; they grow well together with the main crop. Such plants include:

Beans,
radish,
beet,
dill (it grows well throughout the entire area, you don’t need to plant it on purpose, but simply scatter the seeds),
turnip.

What can you say about grapes?

For example, you can add radishes, beets or spinach to it.

About raspberries

It doesn't need beds. Raspberries will be comfortable along the fence, about fruit trees. You can also set up a separate raspberry garden: plant the bushes in several rows, the width of which should be about 0.6 m, and install supports with which the bushes will be tied up. That is, two rows of raspberries can be placed on 1.5 m of soil. You can sow sorrel next to the raspberry tree - this plant will prevent the bushes from growing too much. Apart from sorrel, not a single crop can “get along” with raspberries.

List of plants for planting and growing in the garden

Vegetables, herbs and berries

After planning the ridges, you can begin to select the crops that will be planted on the site. And the choice is huge:

Tomatoes,
carrot,
eggplants,
radish,
zucchini,
garlic (),
different types cabbage (white and red, cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli,...),
cucumbers,
pumpkin,
pepper (sweet and hot),
turnip,
beet,
squash,
beans,
greenery,
potato,
peas,
corn,
berries (strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries).

If a summer cottage large sizes, then all of the above crops can be grown on it. If there is not much space, then you will have to shorten the list and plant only those crops that are needed more than others. After all, to provide a family with, for example, potatoes, it will not be enough to make several beds. Under potatoes, as a rule, they stand out large areas Location on. To solve this problem, you can take a different route and plant early potatoes in a small area, in a place vacated, for example, by radishes.

Or you can use the Mitlider method (narrow ridges), which, for example, on our site (using 0.8 dacha acres) gives 5-7 bags of potatoes ("bad" - "good" in rainy and warm years). This method is applicable to: tomatoes, onions, beets, cabbage, carrots, garlic, corn,... (eggplants and peppers do not react to it).

Herbs

In the shaded areas of the dacha area you can plant greenery, which can be used until the end of autumn. Shade-loving herbs are:

Basil,
Melissa,
dill,
parsley,
mint,
decorative wormwood,
tarragon.

We grow these plants both in beds and on the tree trunks of fruit plantations. In this case, two problems are solved at once - the presence of greenery and the protection of fruit trees from pests (codling moths). If spices placed in the area near currants, you will be able to scare away slugs from berry bushes. In addition to using these plants in fresh, you can make blanks on winter period. All you have to do is dry the greens.

Useful but rare plants

If the garden area allows, you can plant crops that are rare for many today:

Rhubarb,
arugula,
chard,
leaf mustard.

All these crops can be planted in shaded areas of the garden. To grow rhubarb, simply sow the seeds and water the plant generously. The rest of the crops on the list can grow in the sun, however, it is in the shade that they can retain their taste and taste for a long time. beneficial features.

Flowers

Many people believe that a garden is a place exclusively for planting vegetables. However, there are excellent exceptions. Flowers can also be planted in the beds, but all of them are useful, for example:

Marigolds (at the edges of the rows),
medicinal chamomile,
yarrow,
nasturtium,
valerian,
mint.

These plants can be planted in small flower beds or at the end of rows.

How to plant on a small summer cottage

Summer residents who have small area, can still plant many crops, but in limited quantities. In addition, for small dachas It is better to use mixed planting technology, that is, to grow several types of vegetables on one ridge. In this case, one culture will be considered the main one, and the others - satellites. Thanks to mixed planting, it will be possible to use the territory more rationally, and in this case the land will be less depleted. And different types of crops, with the right “neighborhood”, will protect each other from diseases and pests.

When a mixed sowing method is used, it is necessary to sow plants that grow and mature quickly between the rows of the main plants (they are also called compactors). When the main vegetable grows a little and needs more space, the sealing plants will already be ripe, that is, the main vegetable will be able to continue to grow unhindered. Aromatic herbs and greens work best as sealants. But with this method of sowing, the gardener must know exactly which plants can “neighbor”.

What crops are combined with each other in plantings in the garden?

Before planting crops, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with information regarding crop compatibility. Below is a list of the main crops and plants that can be combined and which are best planted at a distance from each other.

cucumbers

It goes well with:

Salad,
radish,
sunflower,
corn,
tomatoes,
peas.

Poor compatibility with:

Sage,
fennel,
dill,
mint.

Tomatoes

Adjacent to:

Garlic,
carrots,
spinach,
onions,
corn,
cabbage,
parsley,
irises.

It is better not to plant next to tomatoes:

Potatoes
beets,
fennel.

Cabbage

Next to it you can sow:

Beetroot,
potatoes,
beans,
mint,
dill,
marigold.

These vegetables do not go well with:

Tomatoes,
strawberries.

Eggplant

Can be planted near any vegetables

For example, cauliflower, but

The best "neighbors" are:

Legumes,
aromatic herbs.

Potato

Prefers proximity to:

Cabbage,
radish,
corn,
beans,
salad.

You should not plant next to potatoes:

Tomatoes,
pumpkin,
cucumbers

Carrot

Pairs well with:

Bow,
tomatoes,
sage
garlic,
beans,
radish.

But it is not advisable to combine dill with carrots.

Onion

Compatible with:

Cabbage,
carrots,
beets,
salad,
radish,
strawberries.

Bad neighbors are:

Beans,
peas.

Pepper

Compatible with:

Basilica,
coriander,
carrots,
onions

It is advisable to exclude from:

fennel,
beans.

Radish

Reacts calmly to proximity to any vegetables

Salad

Will be a good "neighbor" for:

Strawberries (strawberries),
beets,
peas,
tomatoes,
cabbage

Salad does not get along well with parsley, but it does well with chrysanthemums.

Beet

It has good compatibility with cabbage, but it doesn’t “go well” with tomatoes and beans.

Beans

Develops normally, adjacent to:

Cabbage,
tomatoes,
pumpkin,
carrots.

Doesn't go well with:

leeks,
garlic

Garlic

If possible, it grows well next to gladioli.

What to plant in the garden first and what second?

Early spring

Carrot

One of the first crops that you can sow in your garden. It is better to choose several varieties of carrots - early and intended for storage. It is recommended to sow more than normal in case germination is low. When the sprouts grow to 4-5 cm, they can be thinned out.

It is better to buy granulated seeds, since they are more reliable and easier to sow. Sowing is done in furrows spilled with water. Their depth should not exceed 2 cm. They should not be covered; simply sprinkle with mulch, soil, and sawdust. Watering should be done in a fine-drip manner, twice a day.

Greenery

Also at this time you can plant herbs: parsley, dill, etc. You shouldn’t take up a lot of space for greenery; one row will be enough, which can be demarcated with pegs.

Radish

Is one of the most popular early vegetables. It can be planted and grown in any region; it quickly produces a harvest.

Main season - late spring and summer

When earthworms have appeared in the ground, most of the crops can be planted. The “run” in terms of timing is large here: mid-April to mid-May.

Seeds can be planted:

Parsley,
peas,
beets,
zucchini,
pumpkin,
cucumbers

Seedlings need to be planted:

White cabbage,
Bell pepper,
eggplants.

It is worth noting that for beginners, growing these particular plants will not cause difficulties, since they are all unpretentious. It is enough to water them on time and get rid of weeds.

What to plant in the garden after the frosts have gone away

Tomatoes,
bell pepper,
eggplants.

Of these vegetables, tomatoes are considered the most unpretentious. Nowadays, tomato seeds are presented in a wide range; there are many hybrids and varieties that can bear fruit without shelter, and there is no need to sap them.

Eggplants are more difficult to care for. But nothing is impossible - a little theory and patience will help you cope with this task.

All these plants are planted in the garden as seedlings. You can grow seedlings yourself by sowing the seeds one and a half to two months before the intended planting, or you can buy them. When buying seedlings, we choose only plants with a dark green color and healthy foliage. Otherwise, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a good harvest.

Late gardeners

The last sowings are possible even in the last ten days of June. At this time, early ripening cabbage, potatoes (only sprouted ones), and turnips will still have time to ripen. As for greens, experienced vegetable growers specially sow them twice - in the spring (early) and at the top of the summer, so that the second harvest “arrives” by the beginning of autumn. We plant radishes regularly, until the end of August.

Other types of vegetable gardens

With poor drainage

Vertical,
stormwater,
deep.

If it is not possible to do it, then you can think about what to plant in such a garden. During the entire growing season, not a single plant needs excess moisture. You can try planting crops in your garden that can withstand increased moisture. These include:

Zucchini,
cucumbers

But it is best to plant such an area with flowers, for example:

Bathing suit (fries),
primrose,
forget-me-nots,
swamp gladiolus.

Shaded

In this case, it is better to plant unpretentious crops that tolerate shade, for example:

Spicy greens,
salad,
radish,
spinach.

If the shade is not constant, then you can plant other plants:

Beetroot,
carrot
cauliflower,
cucumbers

It is worth knowing that light-loving vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes will grow very poorly without the sun.

In addition to vegetables, you can plant strawberries in shaded areas. Although it is a berry, it is actively bred for country gardens. In addition to strawberries, a place in the shade can be given to currants - this bush feels great in such places.

Decorative

An area planted with plants gives free rein to show your imagination (not everything, after all, comes down to food!). Everyone creates their own garden. After all, it is not at all necessary that only vegetables and berries be present on it. You can also allocate a little space for beauty. Moreover, some flowers, for example, nasturtium or marigolds, can coexist with different crops. It all depends on the area of available territory and the imagination of the summer resident.

Plantings can be placed to create a symmetrical pattern, interesting picturesque groups or concentric circles.

In a place where shade constantly reigns, you can put a bench or arrange a gazebo, plant decorative ferns - and best place it will be impossible to find a place to rest.

Curtains made of tall plants, which delight with abundant and bright flowering:

Decorative sunflower,
climbing green beans,
Jerusalem artichoke,
mallow,
dahlias and others.

Planning a vegetable garden is a rather difficult, but very exciting activity. If you approach this process creatively, think through everything carefully and calculate it, you will be able to plant everything you have planned, and your garden beds will become a source of pride for you. And if you show a little imagination, the site will become very beautiful and will please the eye. Any beginner, if desired, can grow vegetables in the garden. If something doesn’t work out in the first season, then next year, when all errors are corrected, the result will not be long in coming.

It is planned on a residual basis.

Culture	Optimal pH Range	Culture	Optimal pH Range
Onion	6,4-7,9	Dill	6-7
Beet	6,5-7,5	Cucumber	6,4-7,0
Cabbage	6,2-7,5	Zucchini, squash	6,0-7,0
Peas	6,2-7,5	Radish	5,5-7,0
Corn	6-7,0	Tomato	6,3-6,7
Carrot	5,5-7,0	Celery	5,5-7,0
Beans	6,0-7,0	Potato	5,5-6,3
Melon	6,4-7,0	Pepper	6,3-6,7
Eggplant	6,4-6,7	Salad	6,0-6,5
Beans	6,0-6,5	Parsley	5,5-7,0

Location of beds

It is important for garden plants to receive as much light and heat as possible, so they should be located away from buildings.

If you have an uneven plot, then the beds are located on its southern slope, and garden plants- in the north.

Traditional square shaped beds

Why do you need a plan?

In order not to get confused and to correctly plant plants in the garden, be sure to have a diagram of the placement of the beds, indicating their size and type of soil. You should also make a list of the crops you want to plant. At first it will be huge, but gradually you will adjust it by choosing those vegetables that you really need and that will grow in these conditions.

If you have virgin lands, then for the first 3-4 years you don’t have to bother with crop rotation, but then you’ll have to regularly swap plants, and that’s when the plans you draw up annually will come in handy.

Alternation of cultures and their compatibility

It is necessary to alternate crops, otherwise the soil is depleted and pests characteristic of this crop multiply. You should also follow the rules of their neighborhood, because not all plants react favorably to each other. So, tomatoes grow well after cabbage and cucumbers and do not get along next to potatoes and beets.

Favorable precursors for potatoes are legumes and cabbage, while close ones and cucumbers are harmful to both of them - good harvest these vegetables will no longer produce. Special tables have been developed with a detailed listing of the “relationships” of vegetables with each other in garden beds, and they must be used.

Joint planting of vegetables, green crops and flowers is also often practiced. For example, between rows of carrots or onions you can sow lettuce or low-growing marigolds and marigolds: they will decorate the garden bed and repel pests.

Table 2. Alternation of plantings

Crops planned for planting	Previous cultures
Crops planned for planting	favorable	neutral	unfavorable
potato	cucumber, legumes, early cabbage, cauliflower, green manure	carrots, greens, cabbage, beets	tomato, potato
tomato	cucumber, cauliflower, turnip, greens, green manure	onions, cabbage, beets	tomato, potato
early and cauliflower cabbage	early cucumber, onion, peas, beans, beans, green manure	carrots, tomato	cabbage, root vegetables, turnips, radishes
medium and late cabbage	cucumber, early potatoes, carrots, peas, beans, beans	carrots, tomato	cabbage, beets
beets	early potatoes, cucumber, greens, green manure	tomato, carrots, onions, early and cauliflower cabbage	beets, cabbage
pumpkin	legumes, garlic, onions, cabbages	cucumber, early potatoes, beets, greens	tomato, carrots, late cabbage
legumes	cabbage, onion, cucumber, early potatoes	tomato, root vegetables, green vegetables, green manure	legumes, perennial grasses (clover)
onion	legumes, cucumber, early potatoes, early and cauliflower cabbage, green manure	tomato, onion, late cabbage, beets	green, carrots
green and aromatic herbs	legumes, onion, cucumber, early and cauliflower cabbage, green manure	tomato, early potatoes, beets, greens	late cabbage, carrots

Table 3. Compatibility when planting different crops in the same bed

It turns out that planting a vegetable garden correctly is not such a simple matter, but it’s worth trying: even with a small number of vegetable crops planted, the harvest will be rich.

Laying out vegetable garden beds video

Spring work on your own summer cottage start with planning your garden. This may seem like a simple task. But in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to take into account important factors that affect the location of certain crops and plant varieties in the beds. To ensure a good harvest, it is important to plant plants according to the cardinal directions, soil composition, required lighting, and site topography. It is necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation.

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Basics of proper garden planning

You can start planning your garden now. in early spring when the snow melted and the soil dried out a little. For summer residents with many years of experience, this process is not particularly difficult. Those who are just taking their first steps in gardening should take into account the basic rules that you need to know in order to properly plant plants on your site.

If a summer resident decides to plan his garden for the first time, then he needs to pay attention to the following factors:

1. Cardinal directions. Planning the location of the beds should be carried out only in length from north to south. Placement from northeast to southwest is allowed. If you plant crops taking into account the cardinal directions, this will ensure a uniform supply sun rays on the garden bed, will prevent the development of many fungal diseases. In the southern part of the site, planting of heat-loving crops should be carried out. This could be beans, cucumbers, tomatoes. In the north, cold-resistant plants should be planted: turnips, radishes, rutabaga. WITH north side it is recommended to plant corn, which can protect the beds from strong wind. Sunflowers, gooseberry or currant bushes are suitable for this purpose.
2. When creating a planting plan, you should take into account the composition of the soil, especially if plants will be planted in this place for the first time. Additives should be applied in the fall depending on the type of soil. The ideal time is a month before planting seedlings in the ground.
3. The scheme for planting vegetables in the garden should take into account the lighting features required for different cultures. The only one in an effective way influence on the illumination of beds is thinning or cutting down trees. It is not recommended to plant seedlings under the lush crowns of apple and pear trees. These trees can grow from the northern part of the garden bed. This way it will be possible to protect the plantings from strong winds. If there is land in the northern part of the site that can be equipped for beds, then you should plant shade-loving plants for whom strong rays of the sun are undesirable. It could be sorrel or onion. If you plant seedlings of tomatoes, cucumbers or peppers in the shade, they will wither. One more good option It will be possible to grow flowers in the northern part, since cultivating vegetables in such conditions is risky.
4. Relief of the site. If the site is characterized by the presence of some unevenness, then it must be taken into account that in the lowlands in the spring the snow melting process will take place more slowly, and during periods of intense rain there will be water standing in such places. To get rid of excess moisture, you should take care of the drainage system in the form of small grooves. In these places you need to plant plants that require abundant and frequent watering. If the region is characterized by a hot summer period, then seedlings of peppers and tomatoes can be planted in the lowlands. In this case, you will not need to water the plants often.
5. Presence of weeds. If you plan to divide the plot into beds for the first time, and before that there was simple lawn with a large number of weeds, this problem can be solved in several ways. You can remove the top layer of soil and take it away. Sprinkle peat, sand and manure onto the remaining soil. This method is not particularly popular among summer residents due to its high cost and labor intensity. The other way is simpler. It consists of simply digging up the soil, and in the first year only potatoes are planted. This will allow you to get rid of weeds and next year cultivate any vegetables, even very finicky ones.

Irrigation system

When drawing up a plan for the location of the beds, you should definitely think about how the plants will be watered. Crops such as peppers, tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers need watering every 3-4 days. Therefore, the irrigation system should be quite convenient.

At a dacha, at a minimum, there should be a tap and long hoses that could be reached to the plants. If the site has large area, then you should lay out a garden on it or plant plants that do not need frequent watering, and place the vegetable beds closer to the water source so that the distance allows regular and special costs carry out irrigation.

It is important to note that you should not moisten plants directly with tap water. It should be settled, rainwater or from a local pond or river. Large containers are used for this: old bath, metal vat, plastic barrel. To ensure good pressure when watering, you should purchase a pump and place it in the middle of the container. You can water using garden watering can, however, this process will take quite a lot of time.

A good option for setting up an irrigation system is drip irrigation. If such a system already exists on the site, then the planting of vegetables will need to be “tied” to places provided with water.

Compatibility and rotation of crops

After the issue of watering, lighting and cardinal points has been resolved, one more important point should be considered. Namely, compatibility and alternation of plants in the garden.

For proper planning of beds, it is important to remember the compatibility of crops, which consists in the ability to grow, develop and protect each other side by side.

The table contains the names of crops and the degree of compatibility between plants.

It is important to pay attention to the timing of crop ripening and planting. This will allow on the same bed in different time enjoy the harvest.

Features of crop rotation

Crop rotation is important point, which determines the degree of soil fatigue and the quality of the future harvest.

Otherwise there may beenough serious problems with the cultivation of vegetable crops.

Causes of ground fatigue

The following factors lead to soil fatigue:

1. Accumulation of pathogens and pests. For example, if you grow potatoes in the same place, then the number of wireworms Colorado potato beetles will inevitably grow.
2. Accumulation of toxic substances. This is another reason that confirms the need for crop rotation. Toxic root secretions – colins – accumulate in the soil. Many crops are quite sensitive to their toxins, such as beets and spinach. Therefore, if you plant these plants in one place, then every year the harvest will get worse and worse.
3. The need for adequate nutrition. Each vegetable crop has its own requirements for soil nutrition. It is important to take into account this feature of the crops being planted. If you plant related plants for several years in a row, they will suck everything useful material from the ground.

To understand this more accurately, it is necessary to take into account that all vegetable crops can be divided into several categories according to how demanding the plant is to the soil.

To properly draw up a plan, you need to divide the site into 4 zones:

1. Perennial crops, such as strawberries.
2. Demanding.
3. Moderately demanding.
4. Undemanding.

Next year, demanding plants should be planted where undemanding plants grew. Those with moderate demands should go to the place where the demanding ones grew up. Undemanding plants should be sent to the bed where moderately demanding ones grew. This rotation should be done every year. This will allow the soil to rest a bit.

The table shows the predecessors and successors of vegetable crops. It is important to remember that the culture returns to its previous place no earlier than after 3–4 years.

It is important to take into account the fact that human memory is not unlimited. It is very difficult to remember exactly what crop grew in a certain area 5 years ago.

During the sowing process, it is necessary to record in a notebook the dimensions of the bed with a certain vegetable. This is necessary so that next year you can “put together” the pieces of the plantings like a mosaic.

If it is not possible to change the location for a certain crop, then you can simply plant another compatible crop nearby that can efficiently process and absorb harmful toxins.

Mixed planting should really be like that. It is better to plant not half a bed at a time, but alternate a row of one plant and a row of another, not by year, but within the same year.

Other site planning features

The width of the bed should not exceed 100 cm. Otherwise, this will greatly complicate the process of caring for plants. Between the beds you must leave at least 40 cm for garden paths.

If you plan to cultivate tall tomatoes or fragile cucumbers, you should take care of reliable supports. To do this, you can build a fence with a lattice along which it will be convenient for cucumbers to climb.