DIY chess table. DIY chess table made of fiberboard. Chessboard frame

Unusual? Yes. Elegantly? Yes. Comfortable? Yes. Thanks to the new design with shelves for figures, you can not only enjoy ancient game at the table, but to hold chess tournaments in front of spectators.

Let's start with cells

1. From 6mm birch plywood, cut four blanks measuring 83x610mm for dark cells A and six blanks measuring 51x610 mm for light cells B (Fig. 1).

Note. We chose birch plywood due to its lack of voids and relatively thick face veneer, allowing for small chamfers on the edges of the cages.

2. Glue together two pieces of 19mm MDF board measuring 152x152mm and 64x152mm to create an L-shaped stop stop. (photo A). Secure this stop with a clamp in front of the saw blade and adjust its position using a light cell blank IN to cut 51mm lengths. Then make 32 dark cells A 51 mm long. Use the remainder of the blank for the dark cells as a template for a new setting of the stop stop. In the same way, cut out 32 light cells B, 83 mm long.

With the light cell blank B next to the saw blade, adjust the position of the rip fence until the scrap fence touches the workpiece, as shown on the left. Fix the longitudinal stop and saw off 32 parts from the blank for dark cells A, placing its end against the stop-limiter, as shown on the right.

3. Make small chamfers on the front side of all squares A, B using a sanding block or small plane. Then proceed to tinting the dark cells (see section “”).

Mark the playing field

Press cells A and B one at a time, using a separate clamp for each of them. A piece of MDF board secured with clamps parallel to the edge of the backdrop C will help to align them.

1. To determine the width of the backdrop WITH, match four dark and four light squares in one row A, B, measure the length of the row and add 12 mm. From 6mm MDF boards cut out the backdrop WITH specified sizes (Fig. 1). Draw lines parallel to one short and two long edges, 6 mm apart, to mark the boundaries of the playing field. Glue the first row of checkerboards along the top edge of the backdrop, starting with the light colored square in the top left corner (photo C).

2. Cut seven 6mm strips for shelves from walnut boards D. Glue the edge of one shelf to the backdrop C close to the first row of cells A, B (Fig. 1).

Carefully install the clamping device so that cells A and B do not move, and, squeezing its ends with clamps, leave until the glue dries.

The dimensions of cages A, B and shelves D may differ from those shown, so the position of shelf G may change. Mark it on the walls of the case after assembling the playing field A-D.

3. To glue the next row of cells in place A, B, make a clamp by gluing two blocks measuring 38x76x457 mm with a 12 mm spacer at one end (photoD). Continue gluing cages and shelves D to the back WITH until the playing field is completed. Note. Apply a thin layer of glue to avoid squeezing outavoiding excess, which could cause the clamp to stick to the cells.

Chessboard frame

1. Cut out the side walls from 12 mm walnut planks to the specified dimensions. E, top bottom F, shelf G, cornice N, base I and false panel J. Select a 6mm deep tongue on the inside of the sides, top and bottom to insert the backdrop WITH (Fig. 1 and 2). Then cut 12mm rebates along the ends of the side walls.

2. Insert the game board A-D into the tongue of the side wall E, aligning the top row of cells A, B with a top fold shoulder. Mark the position of the shelf G (photo E). Cut grooves in both side walls to insert the shelf.

3. Dry assemble the housing (without glue) to check all the parts surrounding the playing field and adjust them if necessary. If dry assembly was successful, apply glue and secure the body with clamps.

Quick tip! DTo glue the case together, you will need a lot of clamps, so it is advisable to divide this operation into stages: first glue the shelf and the game to the side wallsfirst field, and then insert the top and bottom into place.

Add a figure box

1. Cut out the side walls from 6 mm walnut planks TO, front and back walls L and bottom M (Fig. 3). Make 3mm tongues and grooves in the sides of the box (Fig. 3 And 3a, photoF). Then cut 3mm folds along the ends of the front and rear walls, as well as along the perimeter of the bottom. After assembling the box dry, check the connections of the parts, then glue and secure with clamps.

2. When the glue has dried, tilt the saw blade at an angle of 35° and saw the back of the drawer from above (Fig. 3a). With the saw blade vertical again, take the previously cut panel J and make a cross cut in the middle with a depth of 3 mm (Fig. 3). Glue the false panel to the front wall L.

Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit, 19mm from the tip. When the flag touches the board, the desired hole depth has been reached.

With one setting of the sawing machine, you can cut out not only tongues in all walls of the box K, L, but also grooves in the side walls K.

3. Insert the drawers into the body A-G and drill holes for the axle pins that will be installed later. To ensure that the box rotates freely, place a 1.5-2.0 mm thick spacer under it (we used a steel ruler) and secure one side with small wedges. Using a 6mm center point drill bit, make a hole 19mm deep (Fig. 4, photoG). Then make the same hole on the other side. Drill 3mm holes in bezel J to install knobs (Fig. 3).

Add decorative details

1. Mill fillets with a radius of 10 mm along the ends and leading edge of the cornice N. Glue it on top to the body, aligning the side overhangs (Fig. 1). Mill 10mm fillets on the outer edges of the base I and glue it to the body from below.

2. Make two mounting strips N, sawing a piece of board measuring 19x152x406 mm lengthwise at an angle of 45°. Glue one of the strips to the backdrop (Fig. 2).

3. Apply a colorless coating by spraying (we used semi-matte nitro varnish), and after drying, install the button handles.

Quick tip! Before installing brass axle pins, Insert wooden dowels instead and make sure the drawer rotates freely.

Prepare two 19mm brass pins with a diameter of 6mm and insert them through the holes in the walls E into the axial holes of the box J-M. Finally, secure the remaining mounting strip N to hang your game board, arrange chessmen(no more than 76 mm in height) and invite your opponents to the tournament!

How to make chess squares dark

To get deep and rich dark color On light wood such as birch or maple, without hiding the grain, use a combination of stain and stain. Here's how we stained dark checks A: Using a foam brush or cloth, apply a generous amount of water-soluble Cuban Mahogany aniline dye, let it soak in, and then wipe off excess liquid. Water causes the lint on the wood to rise, so after drying we lightly sanded the pieces sandpaper No. 320 before applying the dye again. After a few hours, when the surface of the parts was completely dry, the stain-gel was generously applied with a cloth swab, allowed to soak in for a few minutes, and then the excess was wiped off and left to dry overnight.

The body of the table for playing mines is made of walnut wood. The front walls of the drawers are edged with walnut veneer, their side walls are made of oak, and the bottom is made of sycamore. The chessboard on the lid is made from squares of white sycamore and dark rosewood. Black insert strips are inserted between them, and the side walls of the box are decorated with sycamore inserts. After final polishing, the four types of wood complement each other, resulting in an impressive effect.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

The frames surrounding the two drawers are assembled using half-wood joints, sawn by hand or with a router homemade device. The assembled frames are secured in folds selected at the ends of the side walls. Having assembled all four parts, you need to make sure that you get a rectangular box. Before gluing the parts on the side walls, at approximately a height of 4 mm from their lower edges, I select: 6 mm wide grooves for the plywood bottom. In addition, before assembly, grooves for sycamore inlay strips are milled into the side walls of the box.

When selecting long grooves for inlay inserts, the cutter and ruler are precisely aligned. Short grooves are milled using a ruler pressed against the wall. The depth of the grooves should be such that the inserts protrude slightly above the surface of the side walls and can be sanded flush. Before attaching the inserts, their ends are cut with a small sharp chisel at a right angle. Having prepared all the parts and the bottom, glue the box and tighten it with clamps. Having measured the diagonals, check the correct assembly and leave it to dry.

Step 2. Moldings

While the glue dries, the box and checkerboard moldings are made. To do this, use two small cutters - a rounding cutter and a “jib” (S-shaped).

The lid molding is made with the same cutters, but its edge is rounded with a small hand plane and sandpaper. In addition, before sawing parts of the molding “on the miter”, a narrow inlay strip is inserted into it.

Having made the moldings, saw off the four parts edging the box along the length and file their ends “on a mustache” before gluing them in place. Before the glue has hardened, remove all its excess, otherwise it will interfere with polishing at the final stage of work.

Step 3. Making boxes. Installation.

Drawers are made using a connection cutting device " dovetail» The front wall is made of walnut wood with a “rim” of walnut veneer, and the side walls are made of oak wood. The base of sycamore wood is fixed in small grooves selected in all walls.

As a main decoration, as well as to protect the veneer, a small bead is glued around the perimeter of the front wall. This is a narrow strip of walnut wood planed to a thickness of 4 mm.

Before gluing it into place in a small miter box, the bead is sawed down, and the edge of the edging is trimmed to fit it. sharp knife and a chisel.
Drawers can slide into openings on both sides of the box. They “walk” on oak slides glued to the plywood bottom and planed flush with the upper ribs of the lower lintels of the box frames.

Having inserted the drawers into place, they glued their guide - a 6-mm oak strip. At the same time, so that the front walls of the drawers are flush with the frames, limiters are attached.

Step 4. Cover - chessboard

It is made from 50mm squares of rosewood and sycamore wood, glued onto 6mm plywood measuring 430x430mm. Before sawing into squares, strips of rosewood and sycamore are first planed to a width of 50 mm and then planed to a thickness of 3 mm. Glue the squares and use an inlay cutter to select all the grooves in one direction. Each pass must be made exactly along the ruler. And although the depth of the grooves is only 2 mm, it is better to select them in two passes.

The black inlay inserts are attached with glue applied to the bottom edge, as otherwise the excess glue will be squeezed out and ruin the surrounding wood. (This work is best done with a wallpaper roller.) When the glue dries, sand the fibers to sand the inserts flush with sandpaper.
When sanding inserts, very fine dust is generated, which easily contaminates white sycamore wood. To avoid this, before taking out the grooves, the pores of the plane tree are covered with two or three layers of pale shellac polish.

Having sanded the inserts in one direction, the same operation is repeated with inserts going in the other direction. At the intersection of the planks, the joint is processed very carefully.

Having typed the chessboard, it can be polished, which is easier to do before gluing it to the place of the edging.

When the glue dries, the plywood base may move a little. To avoid this, two oak strips are attached to the underside of the chessboard with screws and glue. They should be placed so that the screws screwed into the plywood protrude outward with inside side walls of the box. If they are accurately planed to the thickness of the upper frame jumpers, they will serve as bumpers that prevent the boxes from falling out in the open position.

Front right square above drawer should be white, and this determines the direction of the bumpers under the board. Having assembled the lid with the board, saw off the edging parts to length and glue them in place.

Step 5: Finishing

The table is covered with a 50/50 mixture linseed oil with turpentine applied with a swab. The mixture gives a slight darkening of the walnut, but does not affect the inlay.

When the mixture has dried, apply three layers of pale varnish to the table with a brush, sanding between layers with sandpaper. Last layer polished with a grinder. The lid is glued to the side walls after polishing is completed. Then brass legs are attached to the corners and the entire table is covered with wax and polished to a matte shine.

One of the most beloved board games are, of course, chess! But this intellectual game It will be even more interesting if it takes place on the surface of a high-quality and beautiful chess table! Most often, the body of a table for playing chess is made from walnut wood. The front walls of the table drawers are edged with walnut veneer, but their side walls are made of oak, and the bottom is made of sycamore. The chessboard itself on the table top is created from squares of white sycamore wood, as well as dark rosewood. Between these squares special black insert strips are inserted. But the side walls of the box are decorated with sycamore inserts. After final polishing, all four types of wood complement each other organically. The result of such painstaking work is a very beautiful chess table!
Direct work process
First stage. Frame assembly process
The frames that surround the two drawers of the table are assembled on half-wood joints, which are cut out by hand or with a router with a homemade device. After this, the assembled frames are attached to the folds that are created at the ends of the side walls. Then, when all four pieces are assembled, you will need to make sure that a rectangular box is formed. Before gluing the parts on the side walls, approximately at a height of 4 millimeters from their lower edges, you need to make grooves 6 millimeters wide for the plywood bottom. Also, before assembly, grooves for sycamore inlay strips need to be milled in the side walls of the box.
When choosing long grooves for inlay inserts, you will need to accurately align the ruler and cutter. Short grooves must be milled using a ruler pressed against the wall. The depth of the grooves should be such that the inserts can protrude slightly above the surface of the side walls, and also so that it is possible to sand them flush. Before attaching the inserts, their ends will need to be trimmed at a right angle using a small sharp chisel. After all the parts and the bottom are prepared, you will need to glue the box and tighten it using clamps. Then you need to measure the diagonals and check for correct assembly. After this, you need to leave the entire structure to dry.
Second phase. Moldings
While the glue is drying, you will need to make the box and checkerboard moldings. For this purpose, it is necessary to use two small cutters, namely a rounding cutter and a “jib” (that is, an S-shaped cutter).
The table top molding is created using the same cutters. But at the same time its edge is rounded by means of a small hand plane and skins. Also, before sawing parts of the molding into place, you will need to insert a narrow inlay strip into it.
Having created the moldings, you will need to saw off the four parts that edge the box to length. And before gluing them in place, you need to file their ends “on a mustache”. While the glue has not yet hardened, you will need to remove all its excess, since otherwise it will interfere with future polishing at the final stage of work!
Third stage. The process of manufacturing and installing boxes
Chess table drawers are created using a dovetail cutter. The front wall of the box is made of walnut wood with a “rim” and walnut plywood. But the side walls are made of oak wood. After this, the base of sycamore wood is attached to small grooves made in all the walls.
As a main decoration, as well as to protect the veneer, a small side will need to be glued along the entire perimeter of the front wall. It will be a planed narrow strip, 4 millimeters thick, made of walnut wood.
Before gluing it in place, the side of a small miter box will need to be sawed down, and the edge of the edging will need to be trimmed to fit it using a chisel or a sharp knife.
Drawers can slide into openings on both sides of the box. That is, they will “walk” on oak sleds that are glued to the plywood bottom and planed flush with the upper ribs of the lower jumpers of the box frames.
After the drawers are in place, you will need to glue their guide, namely a 6 mm oak strip. Also, to ensure that the drawer fronts are flush with the frames, you need to attach stoppers!
Fourth stage. Table cover - chessboard
The chessboard is created from 50 mm squares of sycamore and rosewood wood. These squares are glued onto 6 mm plywood with dimensions of 430*430 mm. Before cutting into squares, strips of sycamore and rosewood must be planed to a width of 50 millimeters, and then planed to a thickness of 3 millimeters. After this, you will need to glue all the squares. Then, using an inlay cutter, you need to create all the grooves in the same direction. Each pass must be created exactly according to the ruler! And even though the depth of the grooves is only 2 millimeters, it is best to create them in two passes.
The black inlay inserts must be attached with adhesive applied to the bottom edge. Otherwise, excess glue will be squeezed out and thereby ruin the surrounding wood. This work This is best done using a wallpaper roller! After the glue has completely dried, using grain sanding, it will be necessary to sand the inserts flush.
During sanding of the inserts, very fine dust will be generated, which can very easily contaminate the wood of the white sycamore! In order to avoid this, before creating the grooves, parts of the plane tree will need to be coated with two or three layers of shellac polish.
Once the inserts are sanded in one direction, a similar procedure will need to be repeated with the inserts that go in the other direction. Where the planks intersect, the joints will need to be processed very carefully!
Once you've created a complete checkerboard, you can also polish it. This is easiest to do before gluing the edging into place.
When the glue is completely dry, the plywood base may move a little! In order to prevent this, two oak strips will need to be attached to the underside of the chessboard using glue and screws. These strips should be placed in such a way that the screws screwed into the plywood protrude outward from the inside of the side walls of the box. If they are accurately planed to the thickness of the upper frame jumpers, then they will serve as bumpers that will not allow the drawers to fall out in the open position.
The right front square above the drawer should be white. This will determine the direction of the bumpers under the board. Having completely assembled the lid with the board, you will need to saw off the edging elements to length and then glue them in place.
Fifth stage. Finishing process
The created chess table must be coated with a 50/50 mixture of linseed oil and turpentine. This mixture must be applied using a tampon. This mixture will give a slight darkening of the nut, but will not affect the inlay!
After the applied mixture has completely dried, using a brush, you will need to apply three layers of pale polish to the table. Then you need to sand the surface between layers. The last layer is polished using grinder. After this, when the polishing is completely completed, the lid will need to be glued to the side walls. Then, in the corners, you need to attach brass legs. After this, the entire created table will need to be covered with wax and also polished to a matte shine!

That's it, the beautiful chess table is completely ready!
Good luck!

How to make a chess table yourself?
- Connecting a chessboard with a tabletop, decorating a table

You can make a piece of carpentry art such as a chess table yourself. At the same time, it will not be necessary to use it for its intended purpose, since this original chess table, made with your own hands, will perfectly decorate any of the rooms of your house. In the process of creating this decorative item furniture, you can learn how to correctly assemble a surface divided into uniform squares different colors through the use of multi-colored veneer sheets.

An original chess table will be an excellent interior decoration.

As a material with which you can successfully build a table with your own hands, you should use:

This homemade sliding chess table, at which you can play chess and drink tea at the same time, can be made independently according to the diagram.

etomoy plates, the thickness of which will be about 3 mm. As for the sizes, they should be enough to obtain 32 squares with an area of 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
ebony plates, again no more than 3 mm thick, in a quantity sufficient to obtain 32 squares, the area of each of which is 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
Erable plates, the thickness of which is about 3 mm. Its size should be sufficient to obtain 4 rectangles, the area of which is 11.5 × 56 square meters. cm;
the residual material is not thrown away, since its quantity will be sufficient to make molds from thin strips;
melamine plastic sheet about 1 sq. m;
4 strips 8 mm wide and 70 cm long, which will be needed for inlay;
plywood sheet 3 mm thick;
board or fiberboard sheet, whose thickness is 19 mm,
a pair of squares whose area is 52.2 square meters. cm;
4 rectangles whose area is 10x56 cm;
4 pine bars, measuring 6.2 x1.5x52.2 cm, which will be used for making braces;
6 pine slats, dimensions 3x0.8x80 cm;
4 ebony parts, dimensions 4x4x7 cm;
etomoy boards, from which you can make 2 boxes;
4 mm plywood sheets in quantity of 2 pieces, area 18.6 x26, 3 cm each. With their help, the bottoms of the boxes will be created;

How to make a chess table yourself?

In the process of designing such a piece of furniture, it is necessary to be guided by strict drawing data, so that unnecessary errors in calculations and installation can be avoided. The first step is to choose what kind of exterior surface you want for your chess table. Prepare 2 types of plates from which the surface of the chessboard will be made into squares. One of the plates should be made of dark etomoi wood, and the other of light wood.

The thickness of the plates is approximately 3 mm, but it is important to ensure that they do not have any defects on their surface.

The table shows the dimensions of the workpieces and the material for making the table.

In order to obtain wide checkerboard strips equal to 4 cm, it will be necessary to cut the corresponding plates using an iron saw taken from a plane and a ruler. 4 cm wide bars can be used as reliable guides. To accurately perform this operation, it is recommended to fix the plate and ruler on the workbench with two carpenter's clamps. After obtaining strips of both colors with a width of 4 cm, all that remains is to cut out squares with an area of 4x4 cm. To do this, you can use a sharp blade, without teeth, and a mold made of chipboard, the cut out area of which will slightly exceed 4 square meters. cm.

This form is placed on top of the strips, and the plates are cut into squares using a blade and a hammer. As a result, you will quickly and relatively easily obtain correct checkerboard squares with clean cuts and without any burrs or irregularities.

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Laying out cells in a checkerboard pattern and creating a board for a table with your own hands

Places on the board that should be light are sealed with masking tape, and then paint is applied. After drying, the tape can be removed.

Having received exactly 64 squares, 32 light and dark colors each, you must arrange them, as required by the rules of the game, in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, use melamine as a base plate. plastic panel, on the surface of which strips of adhesive paper are fixed so that, in turn, squares can be fixed on them one by one, photo 2. It is worth paying attention Special attention The fact is that you need to glue the squares so that no gaps are formed between their sides and corners. Then proceed to decorating the edges of the created chessboard. This can be done using strips 8 mm wide, which are placed along the edges of the chessboard borders. They need to be fixed in the same way as they did with the cells of the chessboard.

Do not forget that you need to cut the corner joints on the strips at an angle of 45 degrees. Before setting these boundaries completely, first try them on the board to be sure of the symmetry and uniformity of the design. After gluing these elements, you will receive the structure shown in photo 3, which will subsequently be built into the table.

1 - general form table with plank legs; 2 - turned legs; 3 - adjusting the wooden legs of the drawers; 4 - fastening of the longitudinal drawer; 5 - fastening of the lower longitudinal drawer; 6 - drawer

The main parts of the table will be a 10 cm thick support panel, 4 end surfaces on which the table legs will rest, 2 legs and one connecting part. It will be convenient to make them from fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm. In order to cut out the parts for the table with your own hands as smooth and beautiful as possible, it is better to first create templates according to which the legs and other parts of the table will be cut out with your own hands. Since the legs and transverse parts of the table are symmetrical, the templates can be made in half, according to which already finishing material markings are made, and then they are cut out on a workbench using an electric band saw. Then proceed to create a platform whose thickness is 10 cm. This can be done by taking 2 chipboard panels with a thickness of 19 mm and an area of 52.5x52.5 cm, which will become components supports. To increase its thickness to 10 cm, it will be necessary to use 4 more pine bars measuring 6.2 x 1.5 cm and 52.2 cm long, which are installed between the 2 panels, connecting them with nails. The edges of the resulting box are covered with plates cut from fiberboard.

You can make a piece of carpentry art such as a chess table yourself. At the same time, it will not be necessary to use it for its intended purpose, since this original chess table, made with your own hands, will perfectly decorate any of the rooms of your house. In the process of creating this decorative piece of furniture, you will learn how to correctly assemble a surface divided into uniform squares of different colors through the use of multi-colored veneer sheets.

An original chess table will be an excellent interior decoration.

The material with which it will be possible to successfully build should be used:

This homemade sliding chess table, at which you can play chess and drink tea at the same time, can be made independently according to the diagram.

etomoy plates, the thickness of which will be about 3 mm. As for the sizes, they should be enough to obtain 32 squares with an area of 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
ebony plates, again no more than 3 mm thick, in a quantity sufficient to obtain 32 squares, the area of each of which is 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
Erable plates, the thickness of which is about 3 mm. Its size should be sufficient to obtain 4 rectangles, the area of which is 11.5 × 56 square meters. cm;
the residual material is not thrown away, since its quantity will be sufficient to make molds from thin strips;
melamine plastic sheet about 1 sq. m;
4 strips 8 mm wide and 70 cm long, which will be needed for inlay;
plywood sheet 3 mm thick;
a board or sheet of fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm,
a pair of squares whose area is 52.2 square meters. cm;
4 rectangles whose area is 10x56 cm;
4 pine bars, measuring 6.2 x1.5x52.2 cm, which will be used for making braces;
6 pine slats, dimensions 3x0.8x80 cm;
4 ebony parts, dimensions 4x4x7 cm;
etomoy boards, from which you can make 2 boxes;
4 mm plywood sheets in quantity of 2 pieces, area 18.6 x26, 3 cm each. With their help, the bottoms of the boxes will be created;

How to make a chess table yourself?

The thickness of the plates is approximately 3 mm, but it is important to ensure that they do not have any defects on their surface.

The table shows the dimensions of the workpieces and the material for making the table.

Return to contents

Laying out cells in a checkerboard pattern and creating a board for a table with your own hands

Places on the board that should be light are sealed with masking tape, and then paint is applied. After drying, the tape can be removed.

Having received exactly 64 squares, 32 light and dark colors each, you must arrange them, as required by the rules of the game, in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, you should take a melamine plastic panel as a base plate, on the surface of which strips of adhesive paper are fixed, so that, in turn, you can fix the squares on them one by one, photo 2. It is worth paying special attention to the fact that you need to glue the squares like this: so that no gaps are formed between their sides and corners. Then proceed to decorating the edges of the created chessboard. This can be done using strips 8 mm wide, which are placed along the edges of the chessboard borders. They need to be fixed in the same way as they did with the cells of the chessboard.

1 - general view of a table with wooden legs; 2 - turned legs; 3 - adjusting the wooden legs of the drawers; 4 - fastening of the longitudinal drawer; 5 - fastening of the lower longitudinal drawer; 6 - drawer

The main parts of the table will be a 10 cm thick support panel, 4 end surfaces on which the table legs will rest, 2 legs and one connecting part. It will be convenient to make them from fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm. In order to cut out the parts for the table with your own hands as smooth and beautiful as possible, it is better to first create templates according to which the legs and other parts of the table will be cut out with your own hands. Since the legs and transverse parts of the table are symmetrical, the templates can be made in half, according to which markings are already made on the finishing material, and then they are cut out on a workbench using an electric band saw. Then proceed to create a platform whose thickness is 10 cm. This can be done by taking 2 chipboard panels with a thickness of 19 mm and an area of 52.5x52.5 cm, which will become components of the support. To increase its thickness to 10 cm, it will be necessary to use 4 more pine bars measuring 6.2 x 1.5 cm and 52.2 cm long, which are installed between the 2 panels, connecting them with nails. The edges of the resulting box are covered with plates cut from fiberboard.