Templates for carpentry: tips for a novice carpenter, instructions, guides. Tips for a novice carpenter when making furniture, etc. with your own hands Plunge circular saw with guide bar

Workshop setup
As a rule, a carpenter’s home workshop is organized in the premises small area, so you need to install equipment in it rationally, using the space to the maximum.
Let's consider one of the ways to place machines, tools and furniture up to the ceiling of a carpentry workshop. This most often comes from the frequency of use of tools and materials.
For example, painting equipment is installed on top, and boxes with nails, screws and other small items are placed on the lower shelves. When setting up a workshop, do not forget to make room for various slats and bars. But most importantly, it is necessary to correctly position the tools that are most often used. It is advisable to make a small compartment for them and secure them there; they should also hang in such a way that they can be easily removed.
The workshop can look like a large closet, preferably one that is locked. The dimensions are determined by the capabilities of the room and the conditions of the workpiece being manufactured.
Carpentry joints every carpenter should know
The boards are connected different ways, as a result of which various objects are obtained in the correct shape. You can connect with screws and self-tapping screws, but they create holes and need to be camouflaged. Therefore, if the product will not be painted in the future, or if the material is glued, then it is better to make connections that do not damage the surfaces.
Dowel connections are suitable for this, when holes are made for the dowel in the two parts being connected. The distance between the holes is calculated in advance. A dowel is installed in the load-bearing part or in the connection and fixed with glue. Then, the prepared parts are treated with glue and pressed together. If the dowel is difficult to insert, carefully knock it out with a hammer, and in order not to damage the surface, place a board.
Need to know! If you initially make dowels to a certain length, then the holes must be drilled clearly to this depth, down to a millimeter.
Another option for connecting with open tenons is to insert the tenons of one part into the eyes of the other. This connection is made on the back corners of drawers, in shelves, where tenons do not interfere. The tenons are invisible from the front, since they fit into the end of the board so that a layer of wood covers them from above. The spikes ensure that the connection is in the form of a strong wedge. This type of clutch is easier to make than dovetail cleats, where the profile looks like a trapezoid.
To gouge out a dovetail with a chisel, the boards are secured to the table with a clamp. In order for the edges to be of better quality, the block is hollowed out halfway, and then turned over and finished right through on the reverse side. Naturally, for a clear connection, the places are carefully marked in advance.

Recommendations for a beginning carpenter: natural “chemistry” for carpentry work
There are recipes that have been tested by carpentry masters since ancient times. These recipes have not lost their significance today; they are still used in the creation of various high-quality things made of wood. All the recommendations below are aimed at ensuring that you can effectively do carpentry yourself, relying on the time-tested experience of carpenters.

Tip 1. Paraffin for the carpenter
Wooden rings for curtain rods are in fashion now. In order for the rings to move along the rod without difficulty, it is rubbed with paraffin. The same remedy is used if the drawers are difficult to close or open. Naturally, paraffin can be used in certain areas, and in some places, in case of poor sliding, you need to carefully walk or sandpaper.

Tip 2. Vinegar solution. Vegetable oil.
The surface of the furniture should be wiped more often with a vinegar solution, this gives freshness, and if you rub the wooden parts with a solution of vegetable oil and vinegar in equal proportions, small scratches will disappear.
If you treat any edge, for example, an ax, with paraffin, then it is easier to work with such tools (the edge penetrates the wood more softly). But it will become noticeably easier to work with a saw if you rub its blade with lard or vegetable oil.

Templates, mandrel, stop, guide, jig - these and other terms denote a fixture used to hold or guide a workpiece or to hold or guide a tool when it is frequently used in repetitive operations. Woodworking becomes an art when you start making your own patterns.

Once you acquire basic carpentry skills in measuring, marking, sawing, chiseling, planing, and so on, and learn how to make a join the first time, you will quickly notice that much carpentry work is either based on repetitive operations (for example, making identical parts) , or is associated with “one-time” problems that are difficult to solve with standard methods and tools.

Behind the art of pattern making is the ability to improvise, and for many experienced woodworkers this often means moving away from the beaten path of conventional doctrine towards a "parallel" mentality of using all available options.

Templates can be either simple devices or very complex devices. They are usually the result of the individual's mental work and represent very simple solutions to specific problems.

This may apply to the use of nails and pins, adhesive tape and hot melt glue (as an additional working hand), scraps of plywood, chipboard and fiberboard, as well as quick-hardening materials such as automotive putty. Certain hand and power tools require templates to perform certain tasks or to speed up tasks.

Carpentry Basics

The profession of a carpenter, it should be noted, appeared a long time ago, very long before you and I were born. She developed unhindered in favorable climate, among settlements located in forested areas. And together with individual representatives of the profession, carpentry skills as a whole were formed.

By the way, we competently declare to you: all art has the habit of starting somewhere. Usually from small things. For example, strip a fallen log of its bark to make it more comfortable to sit on. We assume that this is exactly how carpentry arose - from the improvement of an ordinary log in front of a fire burning in a clearing. We still, without knowing it, do the same thing on picnics and on country walks, so that we can sit and eat barbecue to our heart's content and in comfort.

Over time, apparently, they began to improve the general environment in the home. Stylish batons, all sorts of tables in the ancient fashion, some kind of lockers and so on.

Although, these days, some archaeologists believe that for some reason they became a truly constructive work of carpentry by our distant ancestors from those time immemorial. Most likely, this object itself had some very symbolic meaning. The staircase was not used trivially - to move from one room to another, to move from level to level. It was a unique and divine (it’s not for nothing that they love to use stairs in temple compositions) way up, into the sky, to the gods! And the more steps, the closer, therefore, the owner of the room was located to the throne of the Creator.
However, there is another, simplified version of the explanation for the special love of the ancients for steps. Probably, after the appearance of benches, people needed to climb up on them - maybe the ancient masters did not always correctly calculate the height of the sitting human body, or there were giant snowmen - children came to visit them. However, the fact remains that in ancient excavations these first works of carpentry are often found, along with elementary furnishings.

It was only later, apparently, that the benches began to turn into tables, from which, naturally, the very name of the profession in Russian came - carpenter.

Then, of course, stools appeared, designed for one seated person instead of multi-seat benches, full-weight beds with carved legs and headboards, chests for storing what they had acquired through back-breaking labor, where merchants could sit and recline while eating, while simultaneously guarding their treasures. And only selected citizens, so to speak, marked by God's finger, enjoyed the benefits of individualism, sitting on a throne-chair.

By the way, the ancient Romans of higher birth enjoyed the privilege of sitting in a chair - a special slave carried behind them a special comfortable bench, on which the citizen sat down as soon as he felt the slightest fatigue. Similar benefits were granted to persons of royal blood. Thus, behind the Russian Tsar, a servant carried a red chair, which was used as a marching throne: a dignitary has no moral right not to stand out from the crowd!

The geographical location of Rus' predetermined the people's love for wood. The Russians initially built settlements in wooded areas, and even in the lowlands of rivers there was certainly forest vegetation. This is probably why it was customary that almost all the household utensils of the villagers were made of wood: furniture, bowls, spoons, tubs, boxes and even shoes - bast shoes - were woven from linden bast. There was plenty of material around, and they made it willingly and with love.

In ancient times, men were ashamed of not knowing how to make things wooden crafts For household use. This was both financially beneficial and faster than going to buy the necessary thing in a neighboring village. Therefore, almost the entire adult male (and growing up, in the guise of boys, too) population of Russians sought to master carpentry skills as best as possible. For the art of woodworking was considered honorable.

And it turned out that, in general, it didn’t even matter how much a person mastered the profession: very poorly, mediocre, or masterfully good, which not many people succeeded in doing. The main thing is participation. And then, everyone who started working on wood tried to do what was planned in the best possible way, in order to look most advantageous in the eyes of neighbors and friends, so that they would say about him: a craftsman! And the more man had to create wooden products, the more graceful, as they grew from time to time.

We will try on the pages of our website to help you master carpentry skills in the shortest period of time. You can easily restore and even create furniture with your own hands, armed with the tools and materials that a real carpenter needs in his work. However, we categorically warn you: to start any business, you must have determination and desire. And then a positive result is guaranteed!

Of course, to achieve top-class professionalism for a short time quite difficult. For example, after studying our site, you are unlikely to be able to gracefully carve a life-size portrait of a loved one out of wood the first time, as some particularly skilled carpenters can do. (They can even make something! A gifted carpenter can easily cut out not only household items, but even a tie or some parts of women’s underwear: you yourself have seen wooden women’s panties neatly hung on a wooden nail. Charming! It’s a pity not a single lady has I couldn't put it on).

However, regular classes in a carpentry workshop will allow you to acquire the necessary skill, which will come with experience. And then, we are sure, you will be able to amaze the imagination of your friends and loved ones with works of carpentry art created with your own hands!

Good luck in mastering carpentry!

Carpenter's carpenter's tool

Now it's time to get a tool. Estimate your financial capabilities, examine the existing tool through the eyes of a novice carpenter. Every home has a hammer, screwdriver, awl, and scissors. See if they are OK. The hammer, of course, does not hold well on the too short handle; it dangles on it, and the blows often fall not on the head of the nail, but on the fingers.

There are several ways to fasten the handle with wooden and metal wedges, wire, and tin (Fig. 1).

The oval hole in the hammer is usually made conical; it widens towards the outside and narrows towards the handle. The birch handle is turned or cut into a cone. The difference in the cross section of the handle is 10-15 mm with a length of 300 mm. The hammer is placed on the thinner end so that it fits tightly into the oval hole. In this case, gaps form between the metal and the wood. The easiest way to secure the hammer is with wedges made of hard beech or birch wood: one wedge is driven into the end of the handle along the longitudinal axis, two narrow ones along the transverse axis.

A more reliable fastening is provided by a metal wedge made of steel 3-4 mm thick with three feathers, the ends of which are sharpened, as shown in the figure. When driving such a wedge, the feathers diverge in different directions and firmly wedge the handle. First, in its end, notches with a depth of 3-4 mm are made with a chisel or a screwdriver, then the wedge will not move to the side.

Methods of attaching a hammer: 1 - wooden wedge; 2 - metal wedge; 3 - fastening with wooden wedges; 4- fastening with a metal wedge
The ax is secured on a wooden ax handle in the same way.

There is also a screwdriver in the house. One screwdriver is not enough to work; you will need at least two or three. But first look at the slot in the head of the screw; it is not rectangular, but trapezoidal. This is the shape that the tip of the screwdriver should be; its planes and edges must be sharpened with a file so that they tightly fill the entire slot of the screw. In this case, the side edges of the screwdriver should be slightly beveled to ensure the greatest effort when driving screws (you have to unscrew it less often).

A straight awl, not a shoe awl, sharpened in the shape of a polyhedron, will come in handy. It is easy to make from a piece of thick steel wire. Before sharpening, one end of the wire can be tempered by heating and slowly cooling. Steel should be hardened in this way: heat the end of the awl on gas burner until the metal brightens, then quickly dip into the liquid. Because for steel different brands Since various cooling compounds are used, then at home you may have to repeat the hardening process, dipping the hot tip of the awl alternately into clean water, acidified with vinegar, sunflower oil, drying oil, in soap solution. You should also vary the degree of heating. The quality of hardening can be easily checked with a file or a hacksaw blade for metal. If the metal is difficult to handle, it means the steel has been hardened.

Scissors, simple and colored pencils, and a ruler can also be found in any home.

Now about the tool, which you need to purchase in a store or make yourself.

A set of tools for carpentry and related work can be divided into two groups according to the order of configuration: a) the most necessary for the primary work of a novice carpenter; b) necessary for more complex cabinetry and special work. Half of what will be listed can be done by yourself, but not right away, as this requires some skills in precision sawing, proper planing, the ability to connect wooden parts in different ways, and use a drill or a brace.

So, at first you need the following tool.

Saws. A hacksaw with a short but wide blade for cross-cutting and longitudinal cutting is preferable. This blade has relatively small teeth 4-6 mm high and has the shape of an isosceles or equilateral triangle. Blades for longitudinal sawing have teeth inclined forward; they cut wood fibers when moving forward, away from themselves, and on the reverse stroke they only throw out sawdust. A traditional bow saw is too bulky and inconvenient for working in tight spaces. A bow saw with a narrow blade (width no more than 10 mm) and fine teeth up to 4 mm high can be useful for curved sawing. But if it is necessary to make such cuts on plywood or planks up to 10 mm thick, a circular bow saw can be completely replaced by an ordinary jigsaw. It will also serve instead of a fine-toothed saw for fine work, as well as a hacksaw for metal. To do this, you need to have saws for wood and metal.

Plane. There are many types of this tool under the general name “plane”: sherhebel with an oval iron blade for rough planing of lumber; single planer for rough planing; a plane with a double piece of iron, or a “double”, as cabinetmakers affectionately call it, for finishing planing, removing even and thin chips; a jointer for leveling large surfaces (it differs from a double plane only in the length and massiveness of the wooden block); folding, fillets, molding, tongue and groove and other planes for profile planing. For a novice carpenter, one double plane is enough, since most often he will have to deal with blanks that have already been roughly planed.

Chisels. They differ in the width of the piece of iron and the shape of the cutting part. Used for cutting wood, cutting decorative plywood, making sockets for tenon joints. Chisels with a semicircular cutter are used for making grooves, as well as for. For the first time, two chisels with straight blades 4-6 and 15-20 mm wide are sufficient.

Marking tool. These are, first of all, a carpenter's square, a ruler, a thicknesser for applying straight parallel lines to the workpiece, a compass, a marker for marking workpieces at an angle of 45° and a mark for marking at other angles. At first, they can be replaced by a student's square, ruler and compass. In the future, it is not difficult to make all these tools yourself.

Vise. Any medium-sized bench vise is suitable, but a special vice is more convenient. They are available for sale and are called carpentry. Such a vice is universal; it is convenient to secure workpieces in them for longitudinal and transverse sawing, planing, drilling, chiselling and other types of work both with wood and with other materials (metal, hardboard, plastic, etc.).

Kleyanka. To prepare casein glue, which is now widely used, no special utensils are required. But to prepare traditional wood glue, flesh or bone glue, you need a glue gun - a steam bath. It will require two tin cans (! of a larger and smaller size. There are no ready-made glue cans for sale.

Squeezes. This is the name given to devices for tightening and pressing parts connected with tenons or glue - clamps, clamps, presses. Commercially available metal clamps are not suitable for all jobs. You can make wooden ones with a metal bolt yourself. At first, you can use, for example, a meat grinder screw, a metal grinder screw, or a screw as a compressor. There are easier ways to tighten the parts using a piece of rubber, twine and wooden wedges.

Bar and whetstone. You cannot work with a blunt instrument. For sharpening plane irons and chisels, a block made of carborundum or emery is suitable. But for editing you need a whetstone - a block with very small, dust-like grains. The most convenient is a mechanical sharpener with manual drive and a round stone. There are household electric sharpeners on sale that can simultaneously serve as a drilling and grinding machine.

Files. A triangular personal file is required for sharpening and straightening saws. Before sharpening, the saw teeth are set using a special device called a set. It can be replaced with a wide screwdriver, pliers, or pliers. In the future, you will need to acquire a set of files: a velvet file for deburring, flat, square, round, as well as a rasp - a file with a large notch - for processing curved wooden parts, end grinding.

Drilling tool. A purely carpentry tool is a brace with a set of so-called feather and other drills for drilling round and making oval holes in wood. But it is advisable to purchase a small or medium-sized drill. It is useful not only for working on wood, but also on metal, plastic and other hard materials.

At first, you can do without a drill and a brace. A hole of any shape can be made in a piece of wood using an awl, chisel, screwdriver, or round file.

Installation tool. Large and small screwdrivers, straight awl, wire cutters, pliers, pliers. The last three tools can be replaced with one - pliers.

Cycle. A steel plate fixed in a wooden block, it is used for smoothing and cleaning wooden surfaces.

Hammers. It is advisable to have two: one weighing up to 300 g and the second very light, the so-called clock hammer.

Glass cutter A simple and inexpensive roller glass cutter is quite suitable; it can be used to cut glass of any thickness. Glaziers and installers of display (mirror) glass up to 10 mm thick prefer a steel glass cutter to an expensive diamond one.

In the future, you will need to purchase a metal one for puttying surfaces before painting, but for now it can be replaced by a thin table knife. An electric soldering iron and a core for marking the metal before drilling will come in handy (you can use an awl or a nail to mark holes in wood for drilling). For work in rural areas, a small hatchet, such as a tourist hatchet, is very useful. You yourself will have to make a device for cross-cutting workpieces at an angle of 45° - a miter box, as well as a bottom - for processing the ends of bars and boards. Of the plows for this purpose, a semi-jointer will be more convenient than a plane. Two chisels will not be enough; you will need semicircular and oval ones. You may need very narrow chisels up to 4 mm wide, which are not commercially available, but they can be made from steel rod of the appropriate diameter.

For the most precise work, a backing saw is useful - this is a hacksaw, the top of the blade of which is edged for rigidity with a steel profile backing of a U-shaped section.

An electrified tool (circular saw, plane, drill) can be considered superfluous in a tiny home workshop; using them will cause disturbance to neighbors. You can do without large chisels; chisels can completely replace them. You don’t need a mallet - a large wooden hammer; it is recommended in carpentry manuals for the reasons that wooden handles chisels and chisels are quickly destroyed when struck with a metal hammer. However, experience shows that a birch chisel handle lasts for several years, and a new one can be made in just half an hour.

A wooden carpenter's meter is convenient for working with large workpieces, and for most carpentry work it is enough to have a metal or wooden ruler 500 mm long.

In modern furniture, shaped, profiled wooden parts are rarely used; they are replaced with molded plastic ones. Consequently, the corresponding plows - moldings, selections, etc. - are not at all necessary.

In stores, carpentry tools are sold unsharpened. Correctly sharpening a saw with a file, and sharpening a plane or chisel on a block and whetstone is not at all an easy task. When sawing, an incorrectly set and sharpened hacksaw will necessarily move to the right or left of the intended cut; even the cross cut of a small block will not be perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. It's difficult to do with an incorrectly sharpened chisel. straight cuts wood It is absolutely impossible to cut decorative plywood, cut ordinary plywood, or process the ends of wood with a blunt instrument.

Before sharpening the saw, it is necessary to spread the teeth of the blade so that during the sawing process it does not jam in the cut, which must be wider than the thickness of the blade. For blades with large teeth (two-handed saws used to cut firewood), for working with raw wood, the gap is twice the thickness of the blade, for other saws it is approximately one and a half thickness.

Moving the saw apart means deflecting the tops of the teeth to the sides from the plane of the blade: even teeth in one direction, odd teeth in the other. For this purpose, a routing is used - a steel plate with shallow slots, slightly larger than the height of the teeth, the width of which is several tenths of a millimeter greater than the thickness of the blade. A simple technique for setting with pliers: clamping the teeth at about two-thirds of the height from the base, with a smooth movement of the tool they are bent one after another in different directions. Thus, half of the teeth will be bent to the right, half to the left.

You can check the correctness of the alignment by looking along the blade: not a single tooth should protrude from the general row. If protruding tooth tips are noticeable, they should be leveled. To do this, the saw blade is pulled between two metal plates, lightly clamped in a vice. The saw is sharpened once every two to three years, i.e. after four to six sharpenings.

After setting, the saw must be sharpened with a triangular file. The blade tooth for mixed sawing has two cutting edges - front and rear, forming a sharp apex, which is shaped like a triangular cutter. Sharpening saws for cross-cutting is done obliquely, at an angle of 45-60°, relative to the side surface of the blade (Fig. 2). The teeth of such a saw work when moving in both directions. To obtain an even row of teeth, the file should be pressed only when moving away from you; when moving in the opposite direction, it should be lifted.

Saw teeth: 1 - top; 2 - base; 3 - cutting edges The number of movements and pressure for each tooth should be the same, usually two or three movements are enough.

Burrs formed when working with a file with a large notch are removed with a velvet triangular file. Sharpening must be repeated periodically, using finely cut files. As a result of repeated sharpening, the shape and height of the teeth change; then the blade is leveled by grinding off the tops of the protruding teeth with a file fixed in a wooden block. After this, wiring and sharpening follow again.

Sawing. Anyone who hasn’t seen a man with a saw in his right hand, a carpenter or a joiner, doesn’t care. What seems simpler: press the block against the stop, raise the hacksaw over it, make two or three short, light movements, and then swing the block in half in a few seconds. Try to do this, and then look at the end of the cut block, check whether all its planes make a right angle with the end. Most likely, it will turn out that the saw blade has moved to the side, there are no straight four corners, and in the place of sawing (the beginning of sawing) and on the opposite edge, the wood fibers are damaged, and there are no smooth surfaces.

You have theoretically studied the rules of sawing well, the blade is sharpened, the teeth form two ideal lines. Now the task is to cut a board 500 mm long and 12-15 mm thick lengthwise into two equal strips. The cutting line is marked on both sides with a sharpened pencil or surface planer, the board is firmly clamped in a vertical position in a vice. Sawed? Turn both halves over and use a ruler to check the width of each on the opposite side. With what precision was the cut made? If the maximum difference in the width of the planks is 1.5-2 mm, then consider yourself already able to use a saw, although for precision cabinetry work the maximum deviation from the marks should not exceed 0.5 mm when sawing along, and only 0.2-mm across 0.3 mm.

It's all about the skills of working with a saw, as well as any other cutting tool, acquired only by practice. Therefore, before sawing the only available workpiece into pieces according to the dimensions specified in the drawing, be sure to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood, test yourself and the tool.

However, experienced carpenters can give several general advice. It is not recommended to cut without preliminary marking using a square and thicknesser. Before cross-cutting, cabinetmakers make markings not with a sharp pencil or an awl, as carpenters and woodworkers do, but with the blade of a sharp chisel. This creates an even, shallow, triangular slit. On the surface of the wood, a chisel, cutting the fibers across, leaves a mark half a millimeter wide. Using a square and a pencil, this mark is transferred to the other three sides of the board or block. Now the task is to ensure that after cutting, half of the mark (the base of the inverted triangle) is not touched by the saw teeth. This will ensure high accuracy cutting, which is necessary in the manufacture of tenons and lugs for a clean connection of individual parts of the product without gaps or cracks.

In the place of cutting on the reverse side of the workpiece, the saw teeth form burrs, sometimes chipping the wood. This is inevitable when working with any saw, even a jigsaw. Marking with a chisel prevents the formation of burrs and chips, at least on one (front) side of the workpiece. At the end of sawing, the sagging end of the workpiece must be held with your left hand to prevent chipping of the wood.

It is very important to start sawing correctly: with short movements towards yourself, you should make a shallow cut on the edge of the workpiece - a groove 6-8 mm deep - holding the blade with the thumb of your left hand above the teeth so that the saw slides along the nail or second joint of the finger. It is completely unnecessary to press the teeth on the wood; the weight of the hacksaw alone is enough. Otherwise, the blade may jump out of the cut and injure your hand; at best, the teeth will tear the wood fibers. The inclination of the canvas to the horizontal plane should be approximately 20°, which also prevents chipping.

Miter box
We should not forget about the heterogeneous structure of wood; when approaching a knot, the blade will tend to bypass a harder place, in which case the sawing speed will slow down, which is quite natural even for processing wood on machines.

When ripping, a wooden wedge can be inserted into the cut to reduce friction. If the saw creaks and vibrates, which happens when working with hard or very resinous wood, then the blade should be rubbed with soap or paraffin.

Sawing at an angle is made easier by using a so-called miter box - a tray of three boards (Fig. 3), which you need to make yourself; they are not available for sale. The side boards must be strictly parallel, slots are made in them at an angle of 45°, the ends are cut at right angles. The workpiece to be processed is inserted into the chute, pressed against the back wall with the left hand, and the saw blade is inserted into the slot. In this case, sawing can be done without marking the workpiece along the entire perimeter; the marks on one upper edge are sufficient. You just need to make sure that the mark coincides with the slot in the miter box.
Occasionally there is a need to cut at an angle of 30°, 60°; for this purpose, corresponding slots can be made in the same device.

During the sawing process, sawdust is formed, usually of a fine fraction. Do not throw away this “scrap”: sawdust will be useful for finishing cabinetry work as a filler for putty. It is better to collect them in two or three small boxes, but separately for the types of wood: light, red, brown flowers. You won't regret it when you start inlaying or when cracks appear in your parquet floor.

The techniques for sawing with a jigsaw look somewhat different. When cutting out a pattern on plywood, hold the jigsaw right hand under a sheet of plywood so that the handle is in a vertical position, and the handle of the machine rests on the arm between the hand and elbow. For cross-cutting thin slats, longitudinal sawing of planks 5-8 mm thick, as well as cutting plywood, you can use a jigsaw in the same way as a hacksaw. In this case, the jigsaw blade must be installed in the machine with the teeth tilted away from you. The saw will work in a forward motion as opposed to a top down motion when cutting designs. It is convenient to cut out tenons and holes (eyes) for them in thin planks and plywood with a jigsaw.

When cutting plywood, it must be strengthened in a vice with the front side facing you so that burrs and chips do not form on it.

A jigsaw is often used to cut thermoplastic plastic, which easily heats up from friction, making the sawing process difficult or even impossible. You can prevent galling by lubricating the cut line with machine oil. Both wood and metal saws are suitable for using a jigsaw.

Sharpening iron. After sawing, planing occupies an equally important place in woodworking. Sharpening the blade of a plane or chisel is easier than sharpening a saw. To do this, you need to have two bars: one emery or coarse-grained sand for rough sharpening, the second is a fine-grained whetstone for straightening, i.e., for removing burrs from the blade. The width of the block should be slightly larger than the width of the piece of iron being sharpened, but the whetstone can be narrow.

The chisel has a bevel to the cutting part, called a chamfer, its angle relative to the plane of the chisel can range from 20 to 40°. A blade with a smaller sharpening angle cuts wood easier and cleaner, especially hardwood, but quickly becomes dull. To avoid chipping the blade when cutting wood fibers transversely (for example, using a chisel instead of a chisel), it is advisable to sharpen the piece of iron at an angle of more than 25-30°.

When sharpening, hold the chisel with your right hand by the handle, and press the piece of iron against the block with your left fingers
Sharpening a piece of iron on a flat block: 1; 2 - correct; 3 - incorrect; on a round stone: 4 - after sharpening; 5 - after editing on the touchstone
the entire plane of the chamfer and rhythmic longitudinal movements are moved along the plane of the block moistened with water. Sharpening is carried out until burrs form on the back smooth side of the iron; they can be easily felt if you run your finger across the blade. Periodically, you should moisten both the block and the piece of iron with water, washing away particles of abrasive and metal. During sharpening, the piece of iron must be held at the same angle to the surface of the block. Typically, if the tool is not running, this operation takes only 4-5 minutes (Fig. 4).

The sharpening geometry is checked with a wooden square. The blade of a plane or chisel must be straight. A slight (up to 0.2-0.5 mm) rounding of the blade at the ends is allowed, but in no case a depression in the middle. The angle between the blade line and the edges of the iron is straight. It should be borne in mind that some pieces of iron are made somewhat narrower in width towards the tail part, then the square is alternately applied on both sides.

After sharpening, shallow scratches formed on the metal by the grains of the whetstone are visible to the naked eye. Now the piece of iron needs to be directed, sharpened, and deburred. This is done on a whetstone. Editing is done not by longitudinal, but by alternately circular and longitudinal movements of the piece of iron along the surface of the whetstone moistened with water as follows.

First, three or four sliding circular movements with the back side of the piece of iron along the touchstone, their surfaces should fit tightly to each other, the straightening angle will be zero. Light scratches from burrs will remain on the touchstone. In this case, the burrs themselves are not ground off, but are only bent towards the chamfer.

Then the piece of iron is moistened with water again, turned over with the chamfer down and five or six transverse sliding movements are made, as when sharpening. The pressure in both cases should be weak. Alternate editing is repeated several times.

Now look at the chamfer under oblique rays of light, its surface becomes smooth, shiny, scratches disappear. Run your finger across the blade on both sides: it is noticeable that the burrs are worn down. Editing can be considered complete when the blade along its entire length becomes smooth, with a mirror shine, and burrs, when lightly touched with a finger, will not be felt at all. This operation usually takes 2-3 minutes.

Planer and jointer irons are sharpened and straightened in the same way.

The position of the hands and fingers is of great importance; it varies during the process of sharpening and straightening. In the first case, the piece of iron is held by the tail part with the right palm, and with two fingers of the left hand the chamfer is pressed against the block. In the second case, when the burrs are removed (bent back) from the back side, the piece of iron is lightly pressed against the whetstone with four fingers of the left hand, and with the right hand they only hold the tail part of the piece of iron of a plane or the handle of a chisel.

The whetstone and the whetstone do not hold well on the surface of the workbench during work; they slide and fidget. This inconvenience can be easily eliminated by placing a thick sheet of wet paper or pieces of thin rubber along the edges under the block. You can strengthen the block in a vice, but it is easy to split it. It is better to secure the block in a wooden block.

To do this, take a piece of wood 40-60 mm longer than the block, and 20 mm larger in height and width. Place a block or whetstone on it, draw a contour with a pencil, along which, using a sharp chisel, make indentations. Make deep slits along the longitudinal lines. It is difficult to cut wood across the grain; you have to chisel it: place the chisel blade along the transverse mark and lightly hit the handle with a hammer. It is more convenient to work with a wide chisel. Install it strictly vertically. Then turn the chisel over with the chamfer facing away from you, set it at a slight angle and chop the wood with light blows of the hammer (Fig. 5). And so on around the entire perimeter.

The sequence of operations (indicated by numbers) for hollowing out recesses (sockets) The depth of the notch for a block thickness of 20-25 mm should be 7-8 mm. The bottom must be cleaned and leveled with a sharp chisel so that the resulting sides are the same height. Now place the block in the block and lightly moisten it. After the first use, the slurry formed when sharpening the tool will fill the gap, and the block will be firmly held in the block. It is convenient to clamp it in a vice, it is convenient for sharpening an ax and straightening a scythe.

To sharpen a plane iron on a block, you need to make at least 100 movements. It is difficult to keep it at the same angle to the plane of the block all this time.

The most convenient way to sharpen a cutting tool is a mechanical sharpener with a round stone with a diameter of 100-120 mm and preferably of the greatest thickness. A manual sharpener greatly facilitates work and saves time spent on sharpening the tool. The sharpening techniques here are different, and the cutting angle is also formed differently.

Typically, a mechanical sharpener has a device for setting the piece of iron at the required angle and holding it in this position. If it is not there, then the piece of iron is held with the left hand in such a position that the planes of the chamfer and the stone coincide, and the back end rests against the table. On the bench board to which the sharpener is screwed, you can mark with a pencil the position of the piece of iron being sharpened or make a stop using a clamp.

A tool is sharpened on a sharpener without wetting the stone with water, so you need to make sure that the blade does not heat up too much until the metal darkens, otherwise the steel can be tempered and re-hardening will be required. Sparks scattering when the stone rotates strongly indicate the high quality of the tool steel and its good hardening.

The completion of sharpening will again be indicated by the appearance of burrs on the cutting edge. Editing is done on a regular whetstone in the manner already described. But it should be taken into account that the chamfer is no longer a flat plane, it is concave according to the diameter of the circle. During editing, the whetstone will be ground down to mirror shine only the top and bottom edges. This reduces chamfer friction while cutting wood. In addition, it is easy to increase the sharpening angle by changing its inclination during the editing process on the whetstone. The editing of a piece of iron sharpened in this way can be repeated several times without preliminary processing on a sharpener.

Cabinetmakers, before starting to work with decorative plywood or hardwood, when special cutting cleanliness is required, resort to this technique. The piece of iron pointed on the whetstone is placed with its tip on a knot in the board, the handle is hit with a hammer, and then the blade is adjusted even more carefully on the whetstone.

In this way, the finest burrs, which can only be seen under a strong magnifying glass, are discovered and ground off.

In Moscow and many other cities there are workshops that accept orders from the public for sharpening various tools, including carpentry:
Planing. The main tool for planing is a plane with a double piece of iron; it can remain for a long time the only plane in a home carpenter’s workshop, so perfect is its design, tested by many generations of carpenters. A plane with a wooden block is preferable to a metal one, which requires special skills to work with.

The plane consists of a rectangular block, it is better if it is glued together from two or three plates of wood of different species to prevent deformation of the block, especially its sole. The most suitable wood is hornbeam, ash, maple, birch, and beech. In the center of the block, a through hole (tap) is made for a piece of iron, consisting of three parts: a cutter (lower piece), a hump (upper piece) and a short screw, which fastens both pieces of iron in a certain position.

Planer: 1 - three-layer block; 2 - entrance; 3 - lower gland; 4 - humpback; 5 - screw; 6 - blade; 7 - mouth; 8 - horn; 9 - boss; 10 - inserts For cleaner planing, the hump is installed so that its lower edge does not reach the cutter blade by 1.5-2 mm, but fits tightly in this place to the lower piece of iron.

If a gap is noticeable between the glands when viewed in the light, then it must be eliminated by sharpening the edge of the hump with a file or on a flat block. The only purpose of the hump is to break the chips as close as possible to the sole of the plane and direct them up the taphole.

As the distance between the edges of the iron increases, it becomes easier to plane, work in progress faster, the cutter removes thicker chips, thus turning into a single plane. But it is difficult to obtain a smooth surface, especially on material with knots and other defects.

The double piece of iron is held in the tap hole by a wooden blade made of wood that is sufficiently resistant to hammer blows. The entrance tapers downward and forms a hole (mouth) 6-10 mm wide in the sole. The narrower the mouth, the cleaner the planing. Increasing its width makes it easier to plan, the chips do not get stuck in the tap hole, but it is more difficult to obtain a clean surface on the workpiece.

The horn is used to hold the plane with the left hand; when planing, the right palm rests on the back of the block and bosses.

The sole of the plane is made of the densest wood, which is well resistant to wear when sliding. When planing uneven surfaces with knots and nicks, the greatest wear of the sole occurs in two places: in the front part and in front of the edge of the cutter. Even chipping of the wood of the sole is possible here. When wear has just begun, thin plates of hardwood are cut into these places and secured with glue. Inserts of such plates are also used in cases where it is necessary to narrow the width of the mouth.

If the sole wears out significantly, it is leveled using a large piece of sandpaper or by planing with another plane (preferably a jointer). If at the same time you have to remove a layer that is too thick (say, 5 mm), then the sole can be increased by firmly gluing a hardwood plate, then the width of the mouth can be restored.

In all planes and jointers, the blade of the iron protrudes above the plane of the sole by 0.1-1 mm. The thickness of the chips, and therefore the cleanliness of the planing, again depends on the size of the protrusion. To raise the cutter and reduce the protrusion, lightly hit the back of the block with a hammer (not the boss!), causing the clamping force of the blade to weaken, and it can be removed completely. Having installed the piece of iron in the desired position, it is again clamped in the tap hole with a wooden wedge. To lower the cutter, use a hammer to hit the upper part of the piece of iron very lightly one or two times, and then the blade. The size of the cutter protrusion is determined experimentally, based on the thickness of the chip. With some skills, the carpenter installs and secures the piece of iron in the desired position the first time. To do this, you need to turn the plane over and look along the sole: the size of the protrusion will be noticeable by the cutting edge of the piece of iron shining in the gap.

The disassembled planer block, without pieces of iron and blade, is usually impregnated with heated drying oil or other vegetable oil, rubbed with wax, and coated with transparent varnish, which improves the sliding of the sole when planing. Planes are never painted oil paint, because it wears off unevenly and the appearance of the instrument deteriorates.

Usually all workpieces have to be planed, regardless of whether they have been planed before or not. If you take a board planed in a factory by machine, then it is not difficult with the naked eye to notice on its surface traces of knives mounted on the round shaft of an electric jointer. If the board was previously processed with a hand plow, then over time it could warp or become unsmooth due to uneven drying of the wood fibers.

The home carpenter often uses wood that has already been used. In all cases, before planing, you should inspect the surface of the workpiece to make sure there are no protruding nails, screws, or metal clips on it. The surface must be cleaned of traces of lime, sand, and paint. There may be nails under the layer of dust and dirt.

The surface after planing should not only be clean, but also smooth. Purity is achieved correct sharpening and installation of iron, as well as planing in the direction of the fibers, not “against the grain.” But you can get a smooth surface only with some experience working with a plane.

Apply a metal ruler to the newly planed plane of the block (wooden ones often need to be checked themselves) and see if there are any gaps at the ends of the block. If they are, then this is only the result of the fact that you were holding the plane incorrectly.

At the beginning of planing, from the moment when the cutter has not yet touched the wood, and until the sole of the plane is three-quarters of the length on the surface of the block being processed, the plane is pressed with the left hand, holding it by the horn, and only pushed forward with the right hand. Then they press on the block with both hands, and at the end of planing, when the horn seems to hang in the air, the force of the left hand is removed and the pressure is carried out only with the right hand, while with the left, using the horn, they only pull the plane forward.

The correctness of planing of long bars is checked by eye. The correct planing of a wider board can also be checked by eye, as well as using two slats 150-200 mm long. The board is placed with the planed side up on the table, and the slats are installed at the ends. If the plane is not skewed when processing with a plane, the slats will be parallel to each other. Otherwise, the raised edges of the board must be trimmed (Fig. 7).
The block is planed starting from the surface that will be the front. But before that, you need to take a closer look at the knots; gaps always form around them, especially if thick chips are removed. To get a clean surface on knotty wood, reduce the overhang cutting edge iron to a minimum, in this case the chips will become almost transparent to the light.

Techniques for checking the correctness of planing: 1 - plane using two slats; 2 - edges with a thicknesser ruler
Planer by K. E. Tsiolkovsky: 1 - guides; 2 - blank to be cut
If you need to plan a thick layer of wood, more than a millimeter, then it is advisable to cut the knot to this depth with a sharp chisel; you can also soften it with hammer blows. Then the plane iron will not become dull so quickly.

On the plane, which in the future should become the basis for gluing decorative plywood or inlay, knots should be cut out and glued in their place wooden inserts. This is done as follows. Square plates are cut from wood of the same species of such a size that they completely cover the knot; the thickness can be 5-10 mm. Then this blank is placed on the knot and outlined around the perimeter with a sharp pencil or awl. The recess is cut out with a chisel and a plate is inserted into it with glue.

K. E. Tsiolkovsky came up with the idea to equip the plane with guides in order to cut out planks to a given thickness without preliminary marking, without a special thickness planer (Fig. 8).

Square. After checking the correctness of the plane, they begin to process the edge, which in the finished product can also be the front one. The correctness of its planing is checked with a square.

Square (1), erunok (2), malka (3) The square consists of a rectangular block and a thin ruler embedded into it (Fig. 9). The length of the last is 100-120 mm, width 40-45 mm and thickness 20-25 mm. The ruler can have a length of 180-240 mm, a width of 25-30 mm and a thickness of 3-5 mm. To check the right angles of large-format products (for example, frames, doors), and marking plywood sheets, large squares are used.

You have to make the angle yourself. At one end of the block, a saw is used to make a cut with a depth of 8-10 mm less than the width of the ruler. The width of the cutout (eyelet) is made equal to the thickness of the ruler. If we take the usual student’s one as the last one (divisions are optional), then the eye can be made by cutting with a well-set saw or two folded together hacksaw blades on metal. One end of the ruler should fit tightly into the cut. You can use any glue to connect parts. It is recommended to apply it to both internal sides lugs.

After the square is assembled with glue, the eye must be clamped in a clamp, having previously aligned internal corner. When gluing, only the inner corner is aligned; the outer corner can be corrected later by removing thin shavings from one end of the ruler.

The clamp can be replaced by any other clamp, for example a meat grinder screw or a vice. It is enough to even press the square to the floor with a table leg or other heavy object and leave it in this position for 3-4 hours.

When the glue dries, the remaining residue is removed with a chisel, and the block and ruler are cleaned with sandpaper. Typically, this tool, like a plane, is impregnated with drying oil, coated with wax and varnish.

Thicknesser: 1 - block; 2 - rulers; 3 - crackers; 4 - blade It is easy to check the outer corner of the tool by placing it against the smooth edge of a drawing board, a sheet of plywood, or a table, first with one side and then with the other. The pencil lines drawn along the ruler should be parallel.

Reismus. Planing of the remaining two surfaces of the block to a given thickness and width is carried out after marking with a thicknesser, which, like a square, you can make yourself. Now that you have acquired the skills to work with a saw, plane and chisel, this is not so difficult.

Reismus simplest design consists of a wooden block into which a small nail with a sharply sharpened end is driven. On the surface of the tree it leaves a shallow, thin mark - a mark. When marking, the block is applied to the front side of the block.

When laying out a block along a thicknesser, you must periodically ensure that the chips are removed evenly over the entire plane. You need to be especially careful when the plane cutter is about to touch the risk. Just try to touch it without cutting off the pencil line completely.

Now the block is planed on three sides, all that remains is to mark the fourth side with a surface planer, plan it, and the workpiece is ready.

It is more convenient to use a thicknesser of a more complex design, which allows you to mark simultaneously in two sizes without readjusting the tool (Fig. 14). You should also try to make such a thicknesser yourself.

It consists of six parts: blocks measuring 60x40x20 mm, two square rulers 7X7 mm and up to 150 mm long, two crackers measuring 7X8x9 mm and a blade 60 mm long and 7 mm thick. Rusks are made from harder wood. For all parts, only dry wood of any species kept at room temperature is suitable.

The thicknesser is made in the following sequence. Place two rulers on a 14 mm thick block (the cover is glued later, during final assembly) with a fine-toothed saw ( better with a jigsaw) make cuts 7 mm deep, the grooves are selected with a narrow chisel. Then a conical cut is made for the blade, the crackers are cut out with a jigsaw, one side of them facing the blade is slightly rounded. The grooves for the crackers are cut out with a narrow chisel.

The parts must be checked in a trial assembly and sanded. The thickness of the blade and crackers should be half a millimeter less than the thickness of the rulers so that they fit freely in their nests. When all the moving parts fit well, glue a plate covering them with a thickness of 6 mm. It can be cut out of plywood. To prevent the plate from moving when gluing and pressing, it can be pre-fixed with two nails 12-15 mm long.

It is better to use thick glue so that when pressing drops of it, the moving parts do not get stuck. For the same purpose, when the block is clamped in a vice or clamp, the blade and rulers can be removed.

Thin nails are driven into the ends of the rulers, their protruding ends are bitten off with pliers and sharpened with a file so that triangular incisors are formed. They will leave a thin mark up to a millimeter deep on the wood.

The operating principle of a thickness planer is that movable rulers, set to a given size, are secured by lightly hitting the blade with the edge of a chisel. At the same time, the crackers move apart and tightly press the square rulers to the block body. To release the rulers to change the size, just press the narrow part of the blade with your finger. Millimeter divisions can be applied to the rulers, starting from the tip of the cutter.

The design of this thicknesser can be simplified if you make a wedge-shaped clamp not along the rulers, but perpendicular to them. Then the crackers will become redundant. But the disadvantage of this constructive solution is the fact that the blade unevenly fixes the position of the rulers, their edges are warped.

For marking, other tools are sometimes required: a marker for making marks at an angle of 45° and a small tool with a movable ruler for marking at any angle. The design and principle of their use are clear from the drawings. A carpenter can easily do without a jig, because it is enough to construct a square on the workpiece using a ruler and a square, and its diagonals form the desired angle. It is rare to saw and cut wood at other angles.

Do-it-yourself carpentry work

Carpentry work usually involves the production window doors and window blocks. It is very difficult and problematic to do. For such carpentry work, appropriate skills and certain experience are simply required. But if you still decide to do it yourself, then you should follow the following procedure.

Prepare mounting and Construction Materials for the entire volume of the same type of work;

When preparing bars from boards, saw them lengthwise into long bars and cut them into shorter ones wooden blocks according to the required size;
When processing, it is necessary to secure it firmly in the workbench;
Finish cutting and planing should only be done according to templates;

Drill the lugs and tenons according to clear markings using an awl and a square. All cuts and insertions must be made only according to markings with a bracket or thicknesser. Long lines on boards and bars should be marked with blackened thread. The tenons must fit tightly into the eyes and grooves, for which purpose, when filing them, marking lines must be left;

Before hammering and gluing, assemble and mark (number) the parts of the product. It is necessary to glue in a warm room (at a temperature above +15 ° C), and press the parts with wedges or clamps in the cutouts of the boards. Window frames are glued with casein glue. When applying glue to the joints, they are moved apart by half, with the exception of the blind ones, which have to be disassembled. After compression, the correct assembly is determined by checking with a square and along the diagonals;

Produce identical products in batches. For example, when making bindings, first all the vertical posts are made, then the horizontal ones, and after that the middle for all the bindings at once. This work allows us to achieve higher quality products.

Organization of a carpenter's workplace. In the countryside workplace a home carpenter can be located in a barn, entryway, veranda or in a special workroom.

In a cramped city apartment, the best places for a carpenter are the front room, balcony or loggia. A corner in the kitchen or even in the common living room can also be temporarily converted into a carpentry workshop. There is no need to be afraid of shavings and sawdust. A broom, brush, rag and vacuum cleaner will remove them in no time.

If possible, allocate for a home workshop separate room, it is carefully inspected, repaired if necessary, the ceiling, walls, floor, doors, windows are painted, general lighting is arranged from a lamp located in the center of the room under the ceiling. To enable the use of electrified tools, sockets are installed. Considerable attention is paid to room ventilation; For the hood, a fan is used, which can be purchased at electrical goods stores. The fan is installed in a window or in exhaust pipe, brought to the roof.

The workshop premises must be heated. Heating can be central, from a solid fuel stove or electric. In the latter case, it is best to use a portable oil radiator. When installing heating and lighting in the workshop, it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements fire safety.

The work table, workbench, workbench board, etc. are placed as close to the window as possible; daylight should fall from the left or from the front. Wall cabinets for tools are hung on the walls closer to the workplace. If the space of the room allows, a rack for tools and materials is located at the workplace.
On the wall behind the table you can attach a board or particle board with holes in which various hooks and rings are installed for hanging tools, small shelves, boxes with small parts, nails, screws, etc.

Injuries may occur while using tools. To provide first aid in a workshop or work area, there should be a first aid kit with iodine, bandage, cotton wool, a tourniquet, hydrogen peroxide, etc. A cabinet or box with a first aid kit is placed in a visible place. There must also be drinking water in the workshop.

The workplace should have good local artificial lighting. To do this, use a drawing lamp, which is mounted above the table or on a shelf using a special bracket. To illuminate the workplace, you can also use a reflector, which is usually used to illuminate the subject of photography. To illuminate the workplace, you need a 60 W lamp.

Corner home handyman in the workroom, hallway or boy's room can be equipped with a universal cabinet, which is designed for storing tools and materials. A pull-out board serves as a work desk.

Storage of tools and materials. The storage conditions of tools and materials have a significant impact on working conditions, and to a certain extent on the quality of products.

For storing tools in the workshop, a shallow wooden box with a lid is convenient, the dimensions of which are taken depending on the number of tools: For a set of essential tools, a box with a length of 600... 700, a width of 400...450 and a height of 120... 150 mm is recommended. In the box, each tool is allocated a specific place with fastenings in the form of loops, wooden blocks or partitions.

In the home carpenter's corner, which is located in the front room, kitchen, veranda, apprentice or student's room, tools can be stored in a wall cabinet.

If there is no space in the apartment for a special tool cabinet or drawer, tools can be stored in a combined cabinet or in a desk, having allocated one to three drawers there for this purpose. It is advisable to arrange cells in the boxes. This will improve the conditions for storing and using the tool.

A home carpenter should always have on hand materials such as scrap boards, wooden blocks and slats, steel, iron, copper and aluminum wire different diameters, tin, scraps of aluminum and brass sheets, nails, screws and bolts of different diameters, pieces of plexiglass and multi-colored plastics, pieces of leatherette, oil and nitro paints, carpentry, rubber, polyvinyl acetate and other adhesives, electrical cords, sockets, plugs, switches, etc. d.

Materials, like tools, should be stored in perfect order, avoiding clutter in the box, rack or cabinet reserved for them. They are sorted and stacked, each in its place. Screws, bolts, nails and other small items are placed in separate boxes or in a box divided by partitions into several compartments. The wire is rolled into rings. Boards, bars, plywood are sorted and placed on racks. Only short and thick bars and boards can be stored in a vertical position. Carefully arranged materials take up less space, are better preserved, and are easier to use.

JOINERY WORKS.

Such work includes marking wooden parts, machining them, gluing and assembling, veneering and finishing, as well as hanging hinges and handles, inserting locks, installing platbands and handrails, etc. Many of these works can be done by yourself at home, knowing the basic techniques for handling wood and having the necessary tools for this.
For the manufacture of wooden products, boards, solid or glued bars and slabs, plywood, chipboard (chipboard) and fibreboard (fibreboard) and other modern materials are usually used.

Boards, bars and slabs made from them are made from natural wood and have all its inherent properties: wood has a fibrous structure, resists shock and vibration loads well (especially when loads act along the fibers), is easy to process, and is reliably joined in products and structures using glue , has high decorative properties.
Plywood consists of 3 or more sheets of wood (veneer) 0.5-1 mm thick glued together, and these sheets are folded for gluing so that the wood fibers of adjacent sheets are mutually perpendicular. Plywood comes in thicknesses from 3 to 25 mm.
Chipboard is produced by hot pressing wood chips with a binder (resin). The slabs are produced in calibrated thicknesses: 10, 18, 20 and 30 mm. Used mainly for making furniture. Products made from chipboard are well processed, are quite durable, do not warp, but are afraid of dampness - they quickly swell and lose their shape. To protect chipboards from dampness, they are veneered (covered with veneer), covered with wood-like film, and coated with varnish or oil paint.

Fibreboard is made by pressing crushed and split wood with various additives (paraffin, resin, rosin, etc.); used for insulation of premises (upholstery of walls, ceilings followed by wallpapering or painting), as a finishing material, for the manufacture of containers. Products made from fiberboard are easy to process, but are not strong enough.

Most carpentry work done by hand is done using carpentry tools. If you don’t have a workbench, you can work on a regular table, covering it with a sheet of plywood so as not to damage the surface of the tabletop, or on the floor.

Carpentry tools are divided into three main types: measuring and marking (rulers, folding meters, compasses, squares, templates, etc.), cutting (saws, axes, planes, chisels, chisels, drills, etc.) and auxiliary (hammers, mallets, rasps, screwdrivers, braces, brushes, pliers, setting, etc.). For gluing and assembly, clamping devices (clamps, clamps) are used.
Marking of wooden parts before machining is carried out using a folding wooden or metal meter. Based on the marks made in pencil, lines are drawn indicating the processing boundaries (cut lines).

Mechanical processing of wood with hand tools includes: sawing and planing of blanks (and finished products when adjusting them to size), cutting tenons and lugs, chiseling and drilling sockets and holes, inserting fasteners and accessories, scraping, grinding. To cut out small wooden parts and saw plywood or chipboard, a one-handed hacksaw is usually used (see the article Sharpening a cutting tool). A hacksaw will cut cleanly and quickly if its teeth are well sharpened and correctly spaced - bent one at a time to the left and to the right. In this case, the width of the cut turns out to be slightly larger than the thickness of the saw blade, thanks to this it does not get stuck in the cut. To open the saw, you need to use special tool- setting, with the help of which the saw teeth are bent to the sides by 0.5-0.7 mm. Not the entire tooth is bent, but only its upper part, approximately 2/3 of the height from the base of the tooth. The teeth set on each side should be the same. After setting the saw, the teeth must be sharpened; This is best done with a triangular file.

The quality of the sawn surface depends on the choice of saw and its preparation; for example, a rough, uneven surface with torn edges is obtained if the saw is cut with a saw with teeth that are too large and poorly sharpened or that are excessively set apart. Sawing should be done with outside from marking lines in one plane, do not put pressure on the saw. Before finishing sawing, it is necessary to support the part of the board or sheet of plywood being sawed off, otherwise chipping may occur and the part will be damaged.

Wood planing is one of the main types of carpentry work. This is done using a sherhebel (rough processing), planes of various types (primary and final planing), a jointer (final processing of long parts) and a sander (final cleaning). For planing shaped surfaces, a tongue-and-groove (sampling of tongues), a zenzubel (selection and cleaning of quarters), a fillet (planing of grooves), humpbacks (processing convex and concave surfaces), etc. are used. Usually at home it is enough to have a sherhebel and a small plane; You can limit yourself to one plane for primary processing.

Chiseling is used to select grooves and other recesses; this is done using chisels and chisels. Chisels come in different widths; the width of the blade must match the hole. You should know that chisels and chisels are usually sold sharpened.
If you need to make a through hole, then you should chisel the parts on both sides in opposite directions; with one-sided chiselling, the edges of the outlet hole can be severely damaged, they will be “torn.” It is recommended to place a piece of board or piece of plywood under the workpiece to avoid damaging the surface of the table on which you are working.
If the width of the board is significantly larger than required, it can be hewn using a hatchet. The marking line must be drawn so as to have some margin (2-3 mm) in the width of the board for subsequent planing. Hewing should begin by notching the edge to be removed with an ax in several places, after which the board should be unrolled and the edge should be hewed to the marking line. Using a plane, remove any existing irregularities and bring the board to the desired size.

Sanding and sanding - final operations machining wooden products carried out to prepare the surface for cladding during finishing. These operations are carried out using rasps, scrapers, files and sandpaper (sandpaper); The roughest processing is carried out with a rasp, fine grinding is done with fine abrasive sandpaper.

Gluing and assembly of wooden parts and products. The main types of carpentry joints: adhesive, joiner's bonds and joints with metal fasteners. For carpentry work, any adhesives suitable for gluing wood are used, including carpentry adhesives (hide or bone), casein, epoxy, PVA, Moment-1, etc.

Joiner's bonds are connections of elements in which one of the parts has a protruding element - a tenon, which fits into a socket or eyelet of another part corresponding to its size and shape. The spikes can be single or double, through or blind. Often joinery is carried out using round or flat tenons. Typically, carpentry joints are made with glue; for collapsible joints - without glue, using metal fasteners: screws, bolts, nails, plates, rivets, etc.
For carpentry, etc., it is useful to have a set of different screws. Screws are released different sizes with two types of slots on the head - slotted and cross-shaped. Accordingly, you need to select a screwdriver. To ensure that the screw head does not protrude above the surface of the part, the hole must be countersunk - with a drill whose thickness is equal to or several larger diameter screw heads.

Fastening wooden parts with nails has some peculiarities. Before driving a nail into a piece of hardwood, it is recommended to drill a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the thickness of the nail. The same should be done when you need to nail a thin strip or drive a nail 120-200 mm long. When hammering nails into parts of small thickness, the tip of the nail must first be slightly blunted, for example, by hitting it with a hammer. A small nail will go into the board easier if it is moistened with water.

Veneering (veneering) is usually performed for decorative purposes and therefore most often veneer of valuable wood species is used for this, as well as decorative “wood-like” film with or without a self-adhesive backing. For veneering, the surface of the product should be prepared - carefully leveled and cleaned with sandpaper or sandpaper. Then select a piece of veneer of the desired size and pattern. Apply a thin layer of glue (carpentry, casein, PVA, Moment, etc.) to the surface of the part and the veneer, then press it firmly onto the part over the entire surface to be glued and leave it in this form until the glue dries completely. Excess veneer protruding beyond the edges of the surface to be coated must be cut off sharp knife, and clean the cut areas with fine sandpaper. To more clearly reveal the wood pattern, the veneered surface should also be cleaned with fine abrasive sandpaper and varnished or wiped with a solution of natural wax in turpentine. After the coating has dried thoroughly, it should be sanded again and the coating applied again. Repeat this 3-4 times.

When using wood-effect film, the surface of the product should be prepared especially carefully, since the slightest roughness becomes especially noticeable on the smooth surface of the film. Film is often used to cover chipboard products - the surface of the product should be sanded, the ends of the board should be puttied and also cleaned with sandpaper, and then dust, dirt, and grease stains should be thoroughly removed from the surface of the product. Coat the well-cleaned surface with varnish 1-2 times. When using a film with a self-adhesive base, it is recommended to cover the already cleaned surface of the product with 1-2 layers of varnish before pasting, let it dry thoroughly and only then stick the film on. On a surface prepared in this way, the film holds more firmly and does not lag behind the edges. To glue artificial paper veneer with a non-self-adhesive backing, you can use any glue for gluing wooden parts. The surface of the product for paper veneer does not require such thorough preparation as for film; It is enough for it to be smooth and clean.

Finishing includes filling holes, crevices and cracks on the surface of wooden parts and products, varnishing and painting them. Used to seal wood surface defects. different kinds putties based on drying oil, varnish, synthetic resins, wood glue. For example, it is convenient to seal holes and deep recesses in chipboard with sawdust mixed with epoxy resin or wood glue. A universal epoxy putty is also available, suitable for almost all wood products.
Natural wood products are best finished in the following way: wipe the surface with a dry cloth and then use a swab to cover it with liquid stain several times until the wood acquires the desired shade. Often, after staining, wooden products are coated with furniture varnish, which gives a decorative look and protects against the harmful effects of moisture. Various oil, nitrocellulose, shellac (alcohol), perchlorovinyl and polyester varnishes are widely used. Most varnishes are colorless. Varnishes, especially liquid ones, are well absorbed by wood, and in order to obtain a smooth shiny surface, several layers of varnish must be applied to the product, and each subsequent layer must be applied only after the previous one has dried.

When painting wooden products, their surface must first be prepared: leveled, puttyed and cleaned. In order for the paint to adhere better, the surface of the product must be coated with a primer (for example, drying oil, red lead). It is best to apply the paint in a thin layer, evenly over the entire surface, several times.

Carpenter's work instructions

1. General Provisions

1.1. This instruction has been developed based on the requirements:

1.1.1. Article 17 of the Law of Ukraine “On Labor Protection”

1.1.2. Directory qualification characteristics professions of workers, approved by order of the Ministry of Labor and Social Policy of Ukraine dated February 16, 1998 No. 24

1.2. The carpenter is hired by the chief physician of the sanatorium on the recommendation of the deputy. Ch. doctor (chief engineer) and only the chief engineer resigns. sanatorium doctor.

Admission, transfer and dismissal are formalized by order of the enterprise (sanatorium)

1.3. The carpenter in his work reports to the deputy. Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer), operating engineer.

2. Tasks and responsibilities.

2.1. The tasks of a carpenter are:

2.1.1. Conduct carpentry and renovation work in accordance with the requirements of drawing and technical documentation.
2.1.2. Careful maintenance of inventory and power tools in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturers' instructions.

2.2. The responsibilities of a carpenter are:

2.2.1. Follow the instructions and orders of the administration.

2.2.2. To restore order in the carpentry workshop, monitor the state of lighting, alarm systems, and maintain sanitary conditions.

2.2.3. Carry out high-quality carpentry work in accordance with current documentation and the requirements of the E TKS, depending on qualifications (category)

2.2.4. Repair carpentry (windows, etc.), furniture (bedside tables, cabinets, beds, etc.)

2.2.5. Replace locks on doors, cabinets, latches, latches, etc., guided by the manufacturer's data sheets.

2.2.6. Follow the instructions for labor protection, fire safety and these instructions.

2.2.7. Follow the internal rules and instructions on the rules of conduct.

2.2.8. Use materials rationally and economically.

2.2.9. Constantly improve your skills.

2.2.10. Place equipment, tools, and protective equipment in designated areas.

2.2.11. To restore order in the workplace after performing work in buildings and structures, to store materials, carpentry, etc.

2.2.12. Maintain established documentation.

2.2.13. Pass in in the prescribed manner preliminary and periodic medical examinations..

2.2.14. Comply with labor protection obligations stipulated in the collective agreement.

2.2.15. Cooperate with the administration in organizing safe and harmless working conditions.

2.2.16. Provide a written explanation at the request of the administration in case of accidents, breakdowns of equipment, tools, violations of instructions, etc.

2.2.17. Treat tools, equipment, etc. with care

2.2.18. Participate in the repair of instruments on the instructions and orders of the administration, guided by special technological processes and relevant instructions.

2.2.19. Perform the duties of a woodworking machine operator, carpenter, subject to the appropriate qualification certificates, documents and orders for the enterprise.

3.1 The carpenter has the right:

3.1.1 Require organization of the workplace and conduct of work in accordance with regulations. , providing materials, tools, carpentry, equipment, etc. necessary for carpentry work.

3.1.2 Require timely repairs of power tools and scaffolding equipment.

3.1.3 Refuse to carry out work if working conditions and the workplace do not comply with regulations on labor protection and fire safety

3.1.4 Require the provision of sanitary facilities and their equipment in accordance with the requirements of regulations, personal protective equipment (working clothing, safety shoes, safety devices).

3.1.5 Require the issuance of a shift assignment and training on labor protection.

3.1.6 Demand the provision of benefits and compensation for difficult and harmful working conditions (based on the results of workplace certification).

3.1.7 Submit proposals for improving the organization of carpentry work.

4 Responsibility

4.1. The carpenter is responsible for:

4.1.1. Failure to complete a shift assignment, poor quality of work, defective work.

4.1.2. Failure to follow instructions from the administration.

4.1.3. Failure to comply with company orders and provisions of the collective agreement.

4.1.4. Violation of this instruction, internal labor regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct, instructions on labor protection and fire safety, instructions for operating equipment, accessories, tools, technological documentation drawings, etc.

4.1.5. Failure (breakage) of scaffolding equipment, equipment, tools, etc.

4.1.6. Use of materials and tools, equipment, carpentry for personal needs, etc.

4.1.7. Loss of tools and personal protective equipment through your own fault.

4.1.8. Disorder and dirt in the carpentry workshop.

4.1.9. Uneconomical use of materials (in violation of approved standards).

4.2. The carpenter bears responsibility in accordance with internal labor regulations and current legislation.

5 Must know (be able to).

5.1. Must know:

5.1.1. Properties of wood of different species and its defects, types of joinery products and their

Structures, hardware and their applications, designs and devices of locks.

5.1.2. Glue, mastics, putties, antiseptic pastes, etc.

5.1.3. Technological processes carpentry work, repair of carpentry and furniture.

5.1.4. The purpose and design of hand and mechanized tools, malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of the tool, the procedure for eliminating them.

5.1.5. Rules for the use of materials, tools, equipment, carpentry, etc.

5.1.6. Equipment, devices and equipment for carrying out work.

5.1.7. Legislation on labor protection, fire safety, Labor Code.

5.1.8. Internal labor regulations and instructions on the rules of conduct.

5.1.9. Standard sets of tools, devices, containers, scaffolding, protective equipment, etc., necessary for carrying out work.

5.1.10. Instructions for labor protection, fire safety and this manual

5.1.11. Equipment operating instructions.

5.1.12. Plan (instructions) for emergency response.

5.1.13. Rules for handling primary fire extinguishing agents.

5.2. A carpenter must be able to.

5.2.1. Carry out high-quality carpentry work (depending on the category

Qualifications in accordance with ETKS)

5.2.2. Handle hand and mechanized tools, equipment,

Equipment, etc.

5.2.3. Use special clothing, safety shoes and protective equipment.

5.2.4. Use primary fire extinguishing agents.

5.2.5. Provide first aid to the victim.

6 Qualification requirements.

A carpenter must have 8-11 grades general education and training on special program in the system of vocational and technical training. (SPTU, GPTU, UKK, etc.)

7 Relationships (professional connections)

7.1 Carpenter:

7.1.1 Receives a work (shift) assignment from the operating engineer, deputy. Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

7.1.2. Hands over the completed work to the operating engineer, deputy. Ch. PM doctor

(chief engineer)

7.1.3. Reports all shortcomings and comments to the operating engineer, deputy.

Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

7.1.4. Interacts with other workers of the team, technical service in accordance with the requirements established by orders, instructions and instructions.

7.1.5. Receives tools, workwear, hardware, materials, supplies personal protection etc. from the storekeeper.

7.1.6. Works in contact with sister-housewives and other heads of departments, fulfilling their requests from the deputy. Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer).

7.2. All disagreements between the carpenter and other workers and the operating engineer are resolved by the deputy. Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)

Carpentry and joinery tools

Hand tools are designed to perform work using own strength. Most of the tools described can easily be replaced with mechanical or electrical counterparts. But for many types of carpentry and carpentry, hand tools remain indispensable.

Conventionally, carpentry and joiner's tools can be divided by purpose: for sawing, planing, chiseling and trimming, drilling and auxiliary work.

Tools general purpose

The hammer is perhaps the most important tool for carpentry and joinery work. Stores sell ready-made hammers, as well as their individual parts. For the hammer handle, dogwood, pear, and acacia wood is used, which are particularly hard and inexpensive. Only high-quality steel is used for the hammer head. But even this simple tool has several varieties.

An ordinary hammer can be found in any store. The impact surface of such a hammer has a rectangular or square plane. The other end of the striker is pointed and is often used to straighten nails when driving.

A wooden hammer, or mallet, is used to grind wood into pieces when gluing. It is also quite often needed when working with a chisel whose handle is made of wood. Impacts caused by a regular hammer can simply break the handle and render the chisel unusable.

Mallet.

A carpenter's hammer differs from a regular hammer in that the tail of the hammer is divided into two parts according to the type swallowtail. This end is most often used to pull out nails.

Pliers are necessary for working with wood. Their main purpose is to pull out nails, bite off nail heads, and bend wire and nails when fastening.

Depending on what needs to be done with the nail, there are needle-nose pliers, flat-nose pliers and round-nose pliers.

For example, pliers and pliers are used for pulling out, bending, biting nails, unscrewing nuts, removing screws with broken grooves from wood, and for other auxiliary work.

Doboynik in carpentry and carpentry work used to bury the nail head into solid wood.

A screwdriver is used to secure wooden parts with screws. Depending on the groove on the screw head, you need to have two types of screwdrivers: wedge-shaped and Phillips-shaped.

Today we will talk about how to work with wood. Of course, we will not be able to cover in one article the entire arsenal of techniques and methods for processing wooden parts, so we will only touch on those tips that will be useful to you in the carpentry workshop.

(FIG. 1). In the most critical wooden structures, parts glued at the ends or at an angle are also reinforced with screws for strength. Many novice craftsmen in these cases, without further ado, simply poke holes in the parts and drive long screws into them. The screw head remains outside.
But a self-respecting craftsman is unlikely to use this technique - the head spoils the appearance of the product. And the effect of this connection is small. Usually experienced carpenters use this technique.
Using clamps, they glue a piece of board with the side cut at an angle of 75° to the part prepared for gluing. Set the drill limiter to the required level (if you are working not with a drill, but on a machine) and use a drill matched to the size of the screw head to drill a shallow blind hole - the result is a neat “pocket”. Then change the drill to a thinner one (according to the diameter of the screw) and drill a through hole.

The glued parts are connected with screws, and the holes in the parts are covered with putty.

(FIG. 2). Sawing off the long side of a board at an angle requires a steady hand and an accurate eye. But a little trick, sometimes used by cabinetmakers, will help everyone master this operation.

On the upper surface of the board being processed, next to the cut line, a 50x100 mm block is secured with clamps - the hacksaw will rest on it. When sawing, hold the hacksaw at an angle and make sure that the teeth follow the markings exactly. The required bevel is obtained automatically (see Fig. 2).

(FIG. 3). Experienced craftsmen drill it in two steps: first from one side to the middle, then from the other to the end. The results are clean and even holes.

(FIG. 4). To prevent the block, the end of which is sawed off at an angle, from sliding against the stop, resourceful craftsmen glue sandpaper to the supporting surface.

(FIG. 5). If you have to make rectangular frames, do not be lazy and make a simple device for this work.

In the middle of a plywood sheet with guides on a circular saw, make a cut (depending on the width of the workpieces being processed) and, stepping back from it by 5 - 6 mm, nail two planks glued at right angles. Fix the stop so that each plank is exactly at an angle of 45° to the cut line. Support surfaces Cover with sandpaper to prevent the parts from slipping, and get to work.

(FIG. 6). A mark placed on the table 10 - 15 cm from the saw will help you position and then cut the workpiece with great accuracy.

Two options for making cuts(FIG. 7 and 20). These tips are good if you have to make several identical parts with miter cuts or bevels, as carpenters call them.
The first device is also convenient in that it allows you to automatically determine the desired bevel. For example, you need to get a bevel of 25x300 mm. Install the legs of the device so that around the mark the distance between them is 25 mm. Now press the part to the fixture, as shown in the figure, and saw it: get a bevel with sides of 25 and 300 mm.

The second device (Fig. 20) greatly simplifies the matter when you need to make parts with equal bevels on all sides, for example, table legs.
The figure shows how the legs in this device are cut. The part is placed on the first step and one side is cut, the opposite side is processed on the second step.

How to trim and straighten thin material(FIG. 8 and 9). Even experienced craftsmen Sometimes it can be difficult to cut a large sheet of thin material straight without special tools. Therefore, many of them, in order not to tempt fate, use a stop block in such cases. They attach the material with clamps to the stop and, resting it against the edge of the table, cut the sheet.

But, if it is necessary to align cuttings of thin material of different sizes, carpenters use another device - a board with a guide and a stop. They immediately place three or four blanks on the board, align them on one side and cut the other, running the device along the groove in the table with a circular saw.

You can also adjust the part on the drum(FIG. 10). Parts for a spherical surface are usually adjusted with a semicircular file. And if you try to do this on sanding drum? We are sure it will be faster and better.

(FIG. 11). It is known that bonded surfaces bond better if they are tightly compressed. But how to compress two planks glued at right angles? You can use clamps with spikes. Or it can be done in a simpler way. You see it in the picture.

To prevent the prisms from sliding off the planks, cover them with sandpaper or, when securing them to the parts with clamps, drop a drop of glue on them.

(FIG. 12). Wide holes in identical parts can be made with a chisel and hammer. But since you have a circular saw, use it for such work.

Make a simple stop with “steps” from scrap plywood or boards. Saw out the “steps” in the board so that the width of each of them is equal to the width of the saw. The distance between the first and last “steps” is the width of the groove. By placing the workpiece on each of the “steps” one by one and making cuts, you will get an even rectangular groove.

(FIG. 13). The edges of a wooden circle are usually reinforced with metal rims for strength. The rim is placed on top of the working surface of the circle, and so that it does not protrude, it is recessed, that is, a shallow groove is knocked out in the wood around the perimeter of the circle, equal in width to the rim.

Quite complex special devices are often used for this operation. But it turns out that you can make exactly the same ledge along the edge of the disk much easier, for example, directly on a circular saw (see figure). To make the work go faster, we recommend processing the circle on a stop.

(FIG. 14). Drilling wooden disks will be much easier if you use a board with a triangular cutout for the stop. Moreover, it must be placed on the table so that the drill is located exactly on the bisector of the cutout angle.

To avoid damaging the veneer(FIG. 15). When fitting large tablets trimmed with veneer, the first thing the craftsman thinks about is: firstly, how not to spoil the surface of the part (not to chip off the veneer) and, secondly, how to make the cut more even. Both problems will immediately disappear if you adopt the method shown in the figure. As you can see, everything is simple: a piece of board is attached to the bottom with clamps - the veneer remains intact, and it’s easier to make an even cut.

(FIG. 16). If you glue a tablet from separate boards and do not take into account some of the features of the wood, then the work can be irreparably ruined.
The first commandment: when gluing workpieces, arrange the boards so that the direction of the wood grain alternates. Second: place the clamps on both sides, alternating through one.

(FIG. 17). It is not difficult to cut a wide board with a sharp saw. But a sharp saw will not help you if you are new to carpentry. Therefore, at first, until your hand gets stronger, use a stand - a block - when sawing.

(FIG. 18). Masters know what a difficult, tedious job it is. But it can be simplified if you use the same circular saw. A minimum of accessories: a stop with clamps and a small measuring frame, and you have simple and convenient equipment for making the recesses you need.

The figure shows that the width of the cut depends on the angle at which the workpiece is installed in relation to the saw. A special measuring frame is used to determine this angle.

(FIG. 19). Thin, identical parts, for example, made of plywood, can be sawed off one at a time, marking each part separately, or together: in a bag according to a template. Experience shows that the second method is much more convenient, especially when you need to produce parts with great precision.

To prevent the template from slipping off the workpieces, thin nails are driven into it from below, the slaps are bitten off with pliers, and the rods are sharpened sharply.

1. Mood matters

Do not enter the workshop if you are tired, in a bad mood, or if your thoughts are preoccupied with other things. At best, your carpentry success will be unimpressive, and at worst, it could end in injury.

2. Eyes, ears and lungs need protection

When operating machines and power tools, always wear eye and hearing protection with a noise reduction rating (NKK) of at least 22 dB. A dust mask is better than nothing, but an N95-rated respirator is preferable. When working with painting equipment, the respirator must be rated N95 or N99.

3. Take help from others

Most carpenters are happy to share their experience and give advice. A few minutes spent talking with a fellow carpenter or just a neighbor, and a complex process will turn out to be simple and enjoyable. You can also turn to the online forum community for help.

4. Restock

Always keep enough essential supplies in your workshop, including masking tape, double-sided tape, hand cleaning paste, tweezers with a magnifying glass, a first aid kit, and a fire extinguisher.

5. There is no such thing as too much organization.

Buy or DIY cabinets, shelves and trays to suit your needs. When everything around you is in order, work will be smooth and enjoyable, and you will spend less time looking for tools and supplies.

6. Make extra

When cutting out flying parts for your next project, make a few extra ones and use them to check and adjust the equipment. The remaining scraps can be useful for testing stains and other finishing compounds to get an accurate idea of ​​how they will look on the finished product.

7. Don't save every penny

Thrift is a useful habit, but you should not cross the line of reason. Wood is renewable natural resource, and if you accidentally damage the workpiece, you can buy a new gloss. Sandpaper becomes unusable in 5-10 minutes. The glue has limited period validity (usually a goal or two). Banks with paint and varnish materials, on the surface of which a dense crust has formed, should be thrown away.

Also on the topic of the article: 8. Life is too short to put up with a bad workbench

Whether you buy a ready-made workbench or make your own, make sure it is rigid enough, has a flat work surface and at least one strong vice.

9. Don't expect perfect results.

The desire to create a project without a single flaw can unsettle you, because it is almost impossible to do so. So don't worry too much about the mistakes you'll inevitably make. Instead, learn to eliminate them and prevent them from happening in the future.

10. Take the time to prepare

Sometimes it's worth spending an hour or two making a special tool to perform an operation that takes five seconds. The devices ensure safety, accuracy and repeatability of the actions performed.

11. The appearance of the product is more important than excess material consumption

Mark the position of the workpieces to be cut with chalk on boards and sheets in order to rationally use the material. However, sometimes it is better to cut in such a way as to eliminate defective areas and benefit from an effective textured pattern or color. When purchasing lumber, plan to lose 10-20% as waste.

12. Adhesive + smooth surface = strong bond

Forget the once-popular opinion that good gluing requires roughness. Smooth surfaces adhere better than rough surfaces. Take the time to make the mating surfaces of the parts smooth and fit tightly together. Remember that glue does not adhere to burnt surfaces, so avoid them.

13. How to avoid chips - two simple remedies will help you cope with chips

Chips can irreparably damage the workpiece. To prevent their occurrence, support the workpiece from the reverse side using appropriate aids. Purchase or make your own anti-splinter inserts for the circular saw, band saw and miter saw (miter saw test below), drilling machine. Attach a wooden pad to the miter gauge to prevent chipping on the back edge of the workpiece. When routing, also support the point where the cutter exits the workpiece using a suitable scrap.

Make special anti-splinter inserts for different angles saw blade inclination and machine settings, for example for cutting bevels and grooves.

14. How to process rough boards - correct order actions

Here's how to process unplaned material to obtain the correct shape.

1. Cut out the workpieces with an allowance along the length of at least 6 mm, while simultaneously getting rid of the end cracks.
2. Plane one face on a jointer.
3. On planer make another face parallel to the first and plan the workpiece to its final thickness, removing the same amount of material from both sides.
4. Finish one edge on a jointer, making it perpendicular to the face.
5. Use a circular saw to cut the workpiece to its final width.
6. File the workpiece to its final length.

15. Nothing replaces accurate markings

Neither glue nor putty will help save a weakened connection. Therefore, get yourself high-quality marking tools - a combination square, a steel ruler, a marking knife and a thicknesser - and learn how to work with them.

16. Do not process artificial materials on planers.

Composite materials such as plywood, chipboard and MDF, due to their high glue content, dull the knives of jointing and thicknessing machines much faster than wood.

17. Templates guarantee fast and accurate results

When you need to make several identical parts that have cutouts or curved contours, you can speed up the work and achieve accuracy by sawing them in a bag and processing them according to a template on a milling table.

Secure several pieces together using double-sided tape. The rod stop will help hold the bag at the beginning of the passage.

18. First assembly, then glue

Always do a dry assembly before applying glue. You don't want to find poorly fitting joints or misalignment after the adhesive has been applied.

19. Pre-sanding pays off handsomely.

Before assembly, final sand as many parts as possible, especially the interior surfaces, which will be difficult to access after assembly.

20. Don't be picky about clamps.

Most of us are unlikely to require anything more complex than inexpensive, time-tested pipe clamps. Stock up on sets of clamps 30 long; 60; 90 and 120 cm, four pieces of each size. To get longer clamps, connect them to each other using couplings or buy longer pieces of pipe and simply rearrange the clamps between them. Add to this a few convenient "one-handed" clamps (such as Quick-Grip) in 15 and 30 cm lengths. Buy other clamps only as needed.

21. Install hardware, then remove and reinstall

Before applying stain or clear coat, assemble the product and install metal parts to make sure everything is working as it should. Then remove all the hardware, apply the finish, and reinstall the hardware. This ensures that all surfaces of the product are coated except metal parts.

22. “Almost right” angle means not square.

When assembling products with right angles, it is important to achieve perfect squareness, especially if the item has inset doors or drawers. Therefore, purchase or make mounting brackets that will ensure a neat assembly. Without them, you are doomed to correct errors for the rest of the time you work on the project.

23. Know about wood and how to cut it

Get to know the most common tree species(especially those growing in your area). This will help tune your “inner radar” to look for great deals. You can save money by purchasing unedged boards at local sawmills and lumber yards. First, learn to distinguish between cutting methods. Boards radial cut the most expensive, but at the same time resistant to warping and produce the least waste. Tangential cut boards, on the contrary, are cheaper, but are prone to warping and generate more waste. Mixed-cut lumber occupies an intermediate position between the two types described.

radial cut

tangential cut

mixed cut

24. Wood changes dimensions - take this into account!

Seasonal fluctuations in air humidity cause wood to shrink and swell. Changes in size mainly occur in the direction across the fibers, and only slightly along them. Take this into account when creating products, otherwise parts will begin to crack, joints will fall apart, and moving parts will jam. These problems can be minimized by allowing the materials to acclimate to the humidity in your workshop by allowing them to sit for a few days before starting work.

Even when the moisture content of wood reaches a stable level, the same as in environment, the tree still changes its size due to seasonal humidity fluctuations.

25. Find out the real meaning of the concept of “cubic capacity”

Outside of hypermarkets, timber flails are set per cubic meter (a unit of volume equivalent to a dense stack measuring 1x1x1m). Measurements are made as follows: the thickness of the board is multiplied by the width and length, expressed in meters. For example, the volume of one board 50 x 150 x 6000 mm is equal to 0.05 x 0.15 x 6 = 0.045 m 3. There will be 22 such boards in one cubic meter (1:0.045=22.2).

26. Spicy means safe

Dull knives and chisels require more effort when cutting wood. Increasing the force increases the likelihood that the tool will slip or you will lose control of it, which can often lead to injury. So sharpen your hand tools regularly.

27. Know when to splurge and when to save

Buy high-quality machines and tools if you intend to use them for decades (milling machine, circular saw and planer). Equipment that is used only occasionally (oscillating and belt sanders, pneumatic stapler) does not have to be expensive.

Steel tools rust. Learn how to remove and prevent rust, especially if you live in high humidity. Put the home recipes aside and try one of the proven rust control products like Empire Top Saver Rust Remover and Protector, Boeshield Rust-Free Rust Remover, Boeshield T-9 Protectant.

29. Thickening will not make the boards flat.

The thicknesser machine makes the two sides of the board parallel, but it is not able to eliminate buckling or helical twisting (winging). First, it is necessary to process one face of the board on a planer-jointer, so you should have both of these machines. The costs will be offset by savings due to the ability to work with cheap unplaned boards.

30. You can sometimes work faster with hand tools than with electric ones.

Let's give just two examples. Chamfering with a small one usually takes less time than setting up a router bit and setting up a router. A good hacksaw will allow you to cut a ledge on a tenon into semi-darkness faster than a saw.

31. An improved filter for a dust removal system requires additional costs

When purchasing a chip cleaner, remember that the degree of filtration is as important (if not more important) as the development air flow(l/min) or engine power. Most chip blowers come with a standard 30-micron filter, which will release a significant portion of the dust back into the air you breathe. Buy a filter with a cleaning degree of no more than 5 microns, and if possible, then 1 or 2 microns.

32. Buying a router in a set is profitable

If you can only afford one router, choose a mid-power model (1,300 to 1,700 watts) from a set that includes plunge and fixed bases. Install the fixed base into the milling table, and for manual milling, move the electric motor to the plunge base.

33. Both inexpensive and high-quality cutters have their uses

Large sets of cutters, in which the cost of one cutter is $1-2, makes sense to buy if you use them infrequently. Those cutters that you use constantly (mainly cutters for rounding, copying, straight, spiral, chamfering and rebate cutters) are better to buy separately, without skimping. They cut cleaner, stay sharp longer and are more durable.

34. Machines also need care

Almost any new machine needs adjustment to achieve high accuracy. When performing normal maintenance, check (and adjust if necessary) the settings you have made from time to time. Thus, the grooves for the miter gauge and the rip fence of the sawing machine must be aligned parallel to the saw blade. This will ensure cutting accuracy and safety.

To set the saw table parallel to the blade, use a dial indicator or a combination square. The table is installed correctly if the measurements at the front and rear edges of the disk are the same.

35. Oily materials may cause a fire.

Rags and brushes soaked in stain or varnish on oil based, may ignite if left in the bag or thrown away when wet. Hang them individually and let them dry before disposing of them.

36. Finish panels before assembly to avoid drying problems

Solid wood door or cabinet side panels should be painted and finished before assembly. In this case, when the panel inevitably dries out, its unfinished edges will not be exposed.

37. When using a spray gun, remove back wall

When applying a coating from a spray gun to a body with the back wall installed, excess composition (dust) will fly off it directly into your face - an unpleasant prospect. Instead, remove the back wall and paint it separately.

38. Hand sanding will provide a better finish.

Despite the large size, at the final stage it should be sanded by hand in the direction along the grain to eliminate transverse scratch marks.

39. Find the best finishing method

It is not at all necessary to master the technologies for applying all existing types of coatings. Find one or two coatings that work for you (say, an oil-based coating for items that are rarely handled, and a polyurethane for items that need a lot of protection) and get used to them.

40. Additional sanding will help avoid darkening of the ends.

Sand visible end cuts with sandpaper one grit higher than the faces and edges. In this case, the ends will absorb less stain and will better match the color of the entire product.

41 Products to be treated with stain require additional sanding

When sanding sharpened parts, start with 120-grit sandpaper, then move on to 150- and 180-grit abrasives. If you are going to apply oil or clear varnish, stop after sanding with 180 grit. However, if you will be tinting the piece, sand it with up to 220 grit sandpaper to remove any minor scratches that will appear after applying the dye.

42. Notice traces of cutting tools in a timely manner.

Poorly visible when natural light Marks left by cutting tools (scratches, ripples and surface steps) can lurk on the faces of your piece, awaiting finishing. To identify them, inspect the parts under oblique lighting, and if defects are found, remove them using sandpaper, a plane or a scraper.

Based on materials from the magazine for craftsmen “Wood Master” (excellent publication)

Practice: Test of the BOSCH GCM 12 GDL miter saw (not advertising)

The miter saw, which we mentioned above when we mentioned the fight against chips when processing a part, is convenient and effective when performing both small and large volumes of work due to prompt preparation and quick readjustment of the saw blade angles. The precision of the cut and the quality of the cut ensure that the task is completed the first time without rework, that is, without wasting time and material.

The delivery set includes the GCM 12 GDL Professional miter saw itself with an installed saw blade, a handle for fixing the angle of rotation of the bed, a clamp for clamping the workpiece, a dust collection bag and two hex keys. If you need to cut aluminum parts, you should additionally purchase special saw blades with trapezoidal tooth sharpening.

PREPARATION

The stage didn't take long. A durable one was used as a workbench kitchen table. We securely attached the saw to its cover with four M8 bolts. The next step is to install a handle that fixes the angle of rotation of the bed. A special dust collection bag was placed on the suction pipe. A clamp with a screw fastening is used to secure the workpiece. It’s good that the designers provided bed extensions. It was thanks to their extreme position that it was possible to securely secure the workpiece, although it was long.

We calculated the angles of connection of the rafter elements in advance, and now all that remained was to accurately set them on the calibration dial. By turning the working bed, we set the first angle and fixed it.

Marks for the start of the cut were already marked on the rafter element blank. The workpiece was placed on the bed and pre-fixed. After this, the mechanism for spatial movement of the working body was unlocked. By moving the locking lever, they lowered the saw blade onto the workpiece and, by loosening the fastening of the latter and moving it, aligned the saw teeth with the mark. All that remains is to connect the saw to the network and turn on the start button

The first sawing pleasantly surprised me with the ease of the process and the high quality of the cut. Advancing the saw bottom requires virtually no effort. The lever mechanism for moving the working tool is compact and really convenient to use. Changing the sawing angle turned out to be simple and quick. There were no changes in the cutting angle as sawing progressed - subsequent assembly of the rafters showed high precision in the execution of the cutting angle of each element, which significantly reduced the time for their final assembly.

The saw control is literally concentrated at hand: the lock for the selected saw blade angle is on the ledge of the frame on the left, the rotation angle lock is on the right, and the random movement lock button is in the center.

A double laser marker is convenient - the lines show the actual width of the cut, and not its middle. This allows you to make a cut more accurately, which is also very important. In general, working with this tool is a pleasure. The movement is easy, smooth, without jamming, the fixed parts are rigid, the calibration scales are easy to read, the standard disc cuts very neatly. However, the absence of a button to prevent accidental engine starting requires special attention, especially in the process of mastering a new product. It should also be borne in mind that at maximum cutting angles at the end of the process, the moving part of the saw may touch the lever of the bracket locking mechanism or the clamp stand.

How to check the quality of lumber and choose quality? Some tips.

The harvesters cut each log in such a way as to obtain from it the maximum number of boards or beams, which differ quite greatly in quality.

Good lumber has fewer knots and is less likely to warp.

IN good boards for the manufacture of flooring, wood fibers are usually located parallel to the surface of the board or at an angle to the surface of up to 45° (Fig. 2). Lumber with wood fibers transverse to the surface of the board is a low grade of construction wood.

When making flooring, try to lay the boards up with the side closest to the tree bark.

Otherwise, the edges of the board will rise when warping, and it will accumulate more more water which will lead to wood rotting.

Construction wood can be fresh or dried. Lumber dried in special ovens is much more expensive than fresh, and the wood you made wooden structure It will dry out on its own over time.

When choosing blanks, make sure that they do not have longitudinal or transverse cracks, delamination or splitting of the wood.

These defects not only weaken the load-bearing capacity of the boards, but also make them unsightly and can also cause dangerous splinters.
Also try to avoid buying lumber that is warped, twisted or twisted.

Rice. 2. Blanks and defects of lumber: 1 - wood fibers are located parallel to the face of the board; 2-wood fibers are located at an angle to the face of the board; 3-wood fibers are located across the surface of the board; 4 - cracks; 5 - wood delamination; 6 - splits in the workpiece; 7 - warping of the board; 8 - twisting the board; 9.10 - curvature of the board relative to different axes. CONVENIENT DEVICE FOR FOLDING CLOTHES To... How and how to protect overhangs...

Good afternoon friends!

Quite often there is a situation when a person who has not previously worked with wood suddenly decides to take up carpentry. There can be many reasons for such a decision. For example, someone became interested in carpentry as a hobby, or a person realized that by doing carpentry as their main job and opening their own small workshop, they could earn income. By and large, the reason, as well as the age at which a person decided to engage in carpentry, are not so important. In any case, the first question that arises for all beginners is the same: “ I decided to start carpentry, tell me where to start? ».

In fact, the answer to this question may consist of several parts: what tools are needed, how best to set up a workshop, where to get knowledge, and so on. Parts of the question about and are exclusively applied and answers to them are not so difficult to find, but the question about where to get knowledge, in my opinion, is key and it will not be possible to answer it definitely.

To help the beginning craftsman, I will give several examples of places where you can acquire basic knowledge about carpentry.

Self-study on the Internet:

Indeed, if you have become interested in carpentry, the first place you should look is the Internet. Use the search - here you can find a huge amount of information: all kinds of sites, thematic forums, video lessons on YouTube. By the way, you can read more about good educational channels on YouTube in one of the previous ones.

One of the most popular forums on Masterova’s carpentry (http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php)

The undoubted advantage of self-study on the Internet is that it is free. However, the downside of this approach is that there is a lot of information and it is poorly structured. This is why it can be difficult for a beginner to navigate and figure out where to start. A person can also be confused by the abundance various points view, especially on forums. A novice carpenter spends a huge amount of time reading articles and watching videos, and in the end often does not understand how to do it correctly. As a result, the learning process is extended by for a long time and it becomes difficult to continue without seeing progress. And in general, there is a risk that the desire to do carpentry may disappear.

Also, do not forget that you still need to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. To do this, you need to have some minimum set of tools and a room for carpentry work. This can become a stumbling block, because spending significant money on a tool without being sure that you will use it is reckless.

Training courses

Compared with self-study Online courses have a number of advantages: the course material is clearly structured, there are clear recommendations and the teacher’s opinion on each issue. The teacher will always be able to answer additional questions. Courses, in addition to theory, necessarily include a practical part, which gives the student the opportunity to try working with their own hands, without having their own tools and workshop. In addition, the courses allow you to see your progress in practice, and a set schedule of classes is much easier to follow than studying on your own at home.

This cabinet is the first piece I made in my carpentry course. This cabinet is the first piece I made in my woodworking course.

Of course, the downside of the courses is that they are not free. Many will say that it is better to buy your own instrument instead of paying for courses. But, firstly, in some cities you can find free municipal courses for retraining specialists in carpentry. Secondly, in my opinion, the benefits of taking the courses justify the costs. After all, it is not necessary to attend expensive 6-month courses. To gain basic knowledge about tools, materials and safety precautions, 2-3 week courses are sufficient. And after taking courses and understanding the most basic things, it will be easier for you to find the information you need on the Internet.

Journeyman

If you are already completely convinced that carpentry is what you want to do, then becoming an apprentice is ideal for you! All you need to do is find a carpentry workshop in your city and meet with the master. Many masters are interested in teaching and passing on their knowledge to students. The terms of interaction with the master may be different, but do not expect that at the first stage it will be profitable for you. Perhaps the master will undertake to teach you for free, and you will help the workshop with your work. Or, you will need to pay some amount to the master for training.

This option is the most preferable, as it makes it possible to get greatest number experience in practice. However, you should carefully choose a workshop - make sure that the workshop’s specialization suits you. It is not very logical to contact a door and window workshop if you are interested in wood carving.

These are the most obvious and common ways to gain knowledge about carpentry, but of course there are others. By the way, all methods can be combined with each other in any proportion that seems most correct and effective to you.

The most important thing is real practice. As with any craft, the more you work with your hands, the more experience you gain and the faster you progress at your craft!

Good luck to everyone in the craft!

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These are tips, mainly on choosing a tool, for those who have decided to take up carpentry “for themselves”. That is, at least for now, not to order and sell, but to start making something from furniture or other crafts for an apartment or dacha.

There are two categories of those who engage in wooden crafts for the soul: there are those who prefer to work hand tools, and those who work mainly with modern power tools. The first ones like the way the shavings flow from under a sharply sharpened plane, use a nail file and a chisel to fit the boards. One of these, for example, is Jimmy Carter. We have great respect for these craftsmen, but we give advice for the second group - those who want to use, first of all, their technical thinking, acquired, perhaps in real life. industrial production, or has an engineering education.

The first question: where to locate the workshop? Reading English-language magazines, we realized that for their craftsmen the most standard option– use the garage. In a warm climate, this, of course, does not cause any special problems, but how to work here, with frosts below thirty, or even colder. There is an exit. And this advice is suitable not only for “city workers”, but also for those who are going to work in a summer house, which is usually not heated all week. Tip: use . You can buy a stove in a store, or you can make it yourself. For example, we purchased a “Sibir” furnace from the Novosibirsk Metalworking Company with a capacity of 32 kW, this is too much for a garage, for small room you can choose less. It cost us about 12 thousand rubles. plus a sandwich pipe that we made ourselves. The stove “eats” all types solid fuel, except for coal. Sawdust burns beautifully, the main product of a carpenter's activity :). It is forbidden to use liquid fuel, but a friend of ours in his garage heats his Buleryan exclusively by waste. We flavored it with sawdust and there were no problems. You can burn it with cuttings, which sawmills not only give away for free, but sometimes pay extra for removal. So the cost of fuel in this case is determined only by transportation costs.

Now about the tools themselves. Firstly, if you are going to do serious work, do not under any circumstances purchase multifunctional devices - such as a circular saw, jointer, drill and the like “in one bottle”. In this case, 99% of your working time will be spent on changeovers. In addition, the quality of such “kmobines” is significantly inferior to the quality of the cheapest models of specialized tools, because a specialized tool is made in the conditions of intense competition among manufacturers and is structurally brought to perfection by numerous design and research teams around the world.

Almost all woodworking tools are actually milling machines. More or less specialized, but all of them, with a few exceptions (drillers, wood lathes, band saws, jigsaws and maybe some others) - milling cutters. Only cutters of different types. An electric planer, a circular saw, and a surface planer actually mill workpieces.

The most versatile and most necessary tool of all is the circular saw. To some extent, it can replace other milling power tools: electric planer, jointer and planer. But it is impossible to replace a circular saw with a planer or surface planer.

If you cut carefully, then the workpiece after the circular saw will only have to be scraped and polished. Here on our website we can make paneled doors using only a circular saw. In any case, the tables, workbenches, and shelving needed in the workshop can be made using one circular saw, gain the necessary experience, and then start purchasing other tools. First of all, it’s worth doing, which will greatly expand the capabilities of this powerful tool. A series of notes on the use of circulars can be viewed here.

We recommend taking a circular saw with a circular saw diameter that allows you to cut the workpiece at least 5-6 centimeters. The fact is that if you use a table, and even a sled, the cutting thickness for a single pass will actually be reduced by one and a half centimeters. True, this thickness can be doubled by making a second pass, turning the workpiece over with the cut side up. Well, even greater thickness can be cut if you finish the jumper with a hand hacksaw.

The last thing you should buy is a miter saw - it’s the same as a circular saw, but only specialized. The fact is that cheap trimmers do not provide the necessary accuracy - the rotation unit for the vertical angle of the cut is too flimsy, so the angle is poorly held in this place - no matter how you adjust it. At the same time, an ordinary circular saw, built into the table and equipped with a simple slide, in the form of a sheet of plywood and a stop attached to it, makes it possible to achieve fantastic accuracy of angles - we just didn’t have a tool at our disposal that could detect the error: if for sheet blanks, a meter per meter, cut at right angles with shifted ends, attach a ruler, do not allow the slightest gap between the ruler and the workpieces.

Therefore, we use our miter saw, which, due to lack of experience and good advice, at the very beginning of our carpentry studies, we use exclusively to quickly “cut out” the workpieces. In general, the tool is useful in some cases, but there is no great need for it.

I’ll answer the question right away: why waste time on trifles - buy everything that might be useful. Well, if you have the means and there is a place to put it all, we are happy for you. But our advice, first of all, is for those, for example, who have a mortgage for a new apartment, and who need to equip a tool in a small area of ​​a standard Soviet garage, but who do not want to inhale in their new home the stench of all sorts of formaldehydes from sawdust slabs, from which they make almost all modern furniture. And we still wonder where the epidemic of cancer and allergies came from, which in the USSR we learned about only from the magazine “Science and Life” and never encountered in everyday life...

The next most necessary tool is, perhaps, a thickness planer. This is a planing tool, but unlike a plane, it allows you to calibrate workpieces to the desired size.

So we made a big one ourselves. If we had a surface planer, but no plane, it wouldn’t be much more difficult to make it. But without a surface planer, having a planer/jointer, it would have been much more difficult to make it, but with the skills that we had at that time, we even set about making it.

By the way:

• Beekeepers often start doing carpentry when they think about it. Buying such a hive is very expensive, but with a hive tool you can do a lot.