Alexei 03.11.2014 Septic tanks
Time outdoor toilets long gone. They have been replaced by modern equipment that does not require such frequent pumping, and some models do not need it at all.
Today, most owners of private houses and summer cottages choose an on-site septic tank. This equipment is much more aesthetically pleasing and safe for environment and does not require maintenance.
What are treatment systems?
Let's start getting acquainted with this equipment with its purpose. So, a septic tank is a sealed container used to collect and treat sewage. Depending on what material it is made of, there are:
The former can be either monolithic or prefabricated from concrete rings. Although sometimes there are models made of brick.
But they are quite problematic to install, so such septic tanks are not widely used.
Watch the video, how it works:
Classification is carried out according to the following criteria:
- Operating principle;
- Shape;
- Location.
According to the principle of operation, they are distinguished: accumulative, with biological treatment and with soil filtration.
According to their shape, they are divided into vertical and horizontal. And according to the method of location of the septic tank in a given area, there are:
- Superficial;
- Underground.
There are also volatile and autonomous installations. Which one will be installed on your site depends on many factors. Typically, the septic tank model is selected taking into account the regulatory requirements for its installation.
What are the consequences of incorrect placement?
soil freezing table
Since a septic tank is a reservoir where sewage is accumulated and treated, special requirements are placed on it. Before proceeding with installation, you will have to complete the project and approve it with the SES. This will allow you to obtain permission to carry out installation work. However, only if the project fully complies with all standards for installing a septic tank in a given area.
The main issue is the correct site for the equipment. So, where on the site to place a septic tank? This is determined taking into account the current standards prescribed in:
- SNiP 2.04.03-85;
- Sanpin 2.2.1/2.1.1.1200-03.
They indicate distances to water intakes, residential buildings and other objects. An important condition is compliance with the standards for installing a septic tank near a well with drinking water. It is very important that waste does not get into the water. Otherwise, it will not only lead to pollution, but also pose a threat to human health. Between the container and the well there should be a maximum possible distance. It is determined by the height of the layers between the aquifers and the soil used as a filter for treated wastewater.
Installation Standards
If there is no connection between them, then a gap of at least 20 m is allowed. This can be determined using hydrogeological studies. According to experts, light soils are considered the best natural filters. If you have such soil, then the gap between the septic tank is summer cottage and the well must be more than 50 m.
Installation standards
The septic tank is built according to sanitary standards. They regulate the location of water supply pipes. So, according to regulatory requirements the gap between them and the sewer should be more than 10 m. Moreover, it is usually located lower than the well, so that in the event of a breakthrough, the wastewater does not get into the water.
The gap between the treatment system and the house is also established in accordance with the standards for the location of the septic tank on the SNiP site. It must be more than 5 m from the foundation. Then, when wastewater flows out of the septic tank, it will not wash away the walls of the building, and the smell will not bother the residents.
Let's watch the video, the rules for the location of equipment:
However, the distance from the house to the treatment system should not be very large. This is due to the difficulty of ensuring the normal operation of a very long sewer pipeline. After all, blockages can occur in it, which will be quite difficult to remove if they are long. If you still have to construct such a system, then for every 15 m you need to install 1 inspection well.
The regulations also regulate the following rules for installing a septic tank:
- The distance from your treatment system to the road is at least 5 m;
- The fence that is installed between you and your neighbors and the septic tank can be left 2 m.
Layout
In addition to the above rules, there are other regulations governing the location of the septic tank on the site. This is what you need:
- Plan installation on soft ground– this will facilitate the process of preparing the pit;
- Provide convenient access to the well of the treatment system, since it will have to be cleaned of solid residues.
As you can see, the requirements for installing septic tanks on a summer cottage are quite simple and everyone should follow them. This will not only help avoid emergency situations and environmental pollution, but also various diseases which can result from effluent entering drinking water.
Correct distance
What should you pay attention to when installing a treatment system? The main thing is where to start installation work– this is the preparation of a pit and trenches for pipes. Where should the septic tank be located on the site area? Firstly, it is installed below the freezing level, only then the system can operate year-round. If this is impossible to do for some reason, then you will have to insulate the pipes with one of thermal insulation materials or install a heating cable.
If the pit is dug in clay or loam, then its bottom should have a concrete pad to which it is attached storage capacity. This is necessary in order to avoid pushing out the septic tank when it is completely cleaned.
Filtration fields or a well must be equipped. But if the groundwater is high, then it is better to choose last option. The water level in the well is easier to control, and water from it can be pumped out if necessary.
Of course, it is possible to install a septic tank with any soil, but it is better if it is dry and softer samples. This is due to the work on preparing the pit for the equipment. It is much more difficult to dig in heavy soil.
Let's watch the video, installation nuances:
Since the treatment systems are located underground, it is necessary to organize air exchange inside the tank. For normal development and the vital activity of microorganisms requires oxygen. So this point should also be taken into account when performing installation work.
Bottom line
In our article, we examined all the basic requirements for the location of a septic tank on a summer cottage. Only strict adherence to them will allow you to achieve comfortable living conditions outside the city.
After all, modern wastewater is saturated with various chemicals, which have a detrimental effect on nature, which means they must be airtight. In addition, from correct location The installation of a septic tank on the site in accordance with existing standards depends on the efficiency and safety of its operation. The more accurately all requirements are met, the fewer problems you will have with maintaining the treatment system.
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible liner is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard to reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:
- Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity Aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
- Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different indicators permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.
When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.
Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.
If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.
Causes of soil waterlogging
There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high groundwater table;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
- violation water balance construction of irrigation systems;
- The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.
What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
- oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
- intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies
Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:
- perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- at a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m they can grow on raised beds vegetables and annual flowers;
- water depth up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
- optimal depth of groundwater for Agriculture– from 3.5 m.
Is site drainage necessary?
Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?
Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.
Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part and the system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.
A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
Where to start building a house? The answer is clear, from the foundation. Although, strictly speaking, it would probably be more correct to start with electricity and water, however, people build without water and without electricity. But now I would note one more point that is best considered at the very beginning - the installation of a septic tank. After all, we want not just a house, but a house with all the amenities.
While considering this topic, I came across many articles about septic tanks and videos in which both professionals and private developers share their experience in installing septic tanks and sewers. Among the experience of private owners, the experience related to drilling foundations, introducing sewers into the house, laying sewer pipes under the floors, etc., especially stands out.
Judging by this experience, many begin to build and install sewerage into the house after the house has already been built (as a rule, it is not yet completed, but the foundation, walls and roof are already in place). Is it correct? I think this is, let's say, the normal way. However, not the most rational.
In fact, it’s worth thinking about the septic tank (and the sewer system itself) even before building the foundation. Here are the arguments for this:
To locate the septic tank, you need to allocate a place on the site in advance, and so that in the future any sewer truck can easily drive up to the septic tank at least at a distance of three to four meters in order to lower the hose into the container without any problems (the usual hose length is up to 6 meters, which if necessary, you can expand by attaching additional sleeves, but this may entail additional costs);
Septic tank installation with gasket external sewerage is one of the dirtiest tasks due to its large volumes earthworks. To immediately finish with the dirtiest work on the site, it is convenient to install a septic tank immediately after building the foundation (and maybe even at the same time or earlier)
To avoid the need to drill the foundation, it is better to provide a place where the external sewage system will enter the house before pouring it. If the foundation is supposed to be a shallow strip foundation, then it will not be difficult to lay a sewer underneath it. But if we're talking about about a real deep foundation or ground floor, then it is best to provide an entry hole in it before pouring sewer pipe. Otherwise, you cannot do without drilling, which increases the cost of work and is a very labor-intensive task that requires special tools;
It is necessary to provide a sufficient area for the septic tank, and in compliance with the necessary location standards (distance to the house, distance to neighboring plots, etc. - manufacturers and professional installers are aware of these requirements). At the same time, each septic tank will require its own area. Obviously, a septic tank a la a cesspool in the form of a metal or plastic container 3-5 cubic meters will require less space than a 10 cubic meter container.
By the way, according to the experience of residents when permanent residence three people in a house, a 10-cubic-meter capacity requires calling a sewer truck every month and a half. A septic tank of the “Tank” type (and analogues) will require a lot of space and excavation work - mainly due to additional infiltrators that are installed along with the septic tank itself, usually up to two pieces (in the picture from the manufacturer’s booklet - installation of a septic tank Tank 2, Tank 2.5).
But the manufacturers promise that with such a septic tank, calling the vacuum cleaners will be required much less often (once a year and even much less often when using bacteria), moreover, the “Tank” is a non-volatile septic tank, i.e. does not require electricity.
More less area and excavation work, all other things being equal, require energy-dependent septic tanks with aeration (for example, Topas septic tank, Unilos Astra septic tank, Bionics, etc.). They will allow you to create a truly autonomous sewer system, although they require significantly higher costs at the purchase and installation stage. However, it is better to provide for the access of a sewer truck in this case as well.
So when is the best time to install a septic tank? In my opinion, it is best to make a septic tank immediately after pouring the foundation (when pouring, taking into account how the sewer pipe will enter the house) - that is, make the septic tank itself, the external sewer system and bring it into the house to the point of connection with the future internal system. In this case, it is advisable to have at least a rough draft, an outline of this very internal system sewerage.
Another related question that is asked is
Is it necessary to make pipes in the strip foundation in advance for drainage?
In principle, if the foundation is not deep, the external sewerage pipe can be laid later. To do this, you will need to dig a trench under the foundation and place a piece of iron pipe for protection, and through it let the external sewage system pass under the foundation.
But, of course, it will be easier if, when pouring the foundation itself, a hole will already be provided (as well as holes for underfloor ventilation), for an example - see this one with a photo.
If there are not enough funds for this entire system, then when arranging the foundation, it makes sense to make at least a sewerage entry point into the house. Then it will be possible to erect walls and even lay floors without further problems, and lay the external sewer system and install the septic tank at any other time.
And one more important note. If you want to save money and effort on installing an internal sewer system, then you also need to think about this in advance. The simplest and cheapest thing would be to make sure that all sources for sewage are located on the ground floor of the house, with the bathroom (bathtub, toilet) and kitchen located nearby.
Then it will be possible to easily arrange a sewerage system according to this scheme: first, an external sewerage pipe is introduced into the house, which on the other side is connected to a septic tank. Then it is connected to a single riser of the internal sewerage system, and from it, branches are made in one direction or in different directions (at a short distance) to the toilet, shower and kitchen.
Nick Masterov, website
Video on the topic of introducing sewerage into a house (how to avoid “jambs”):
What to install first - a toilet or a septic tank?
Some people also ask this question. In my opinion, these are not so interconnected works - internal wiring, external sewerage and the septic tank itself can be installed independently of each other. Just foresee where and how one will connect to the other.
That is, you can install a toilet, connect it to the internal sewerage system and without any septic tank. BUT! It is clear that it will not be possible to use it - where will the waste go? But when you install the entire system, and add plumbing here, then, please, use the toilet for your health :)
As a temporary option, when the house is ready, you can already live in it, but there is no sewage system yet - many people use a dry closet.
- What is the difference between a septic tank and a cesspool?
- How often do septic tanks need to be pumped? What methods are there?
- What bacteria exist for septic tanks?
- How much does it cost to help a vacuum cleaner?
- Septic tank without pumping - does ideal equipment exist?
- How to make a septic tank yourself without pumping?
The lack of centralized sewerage is a serious problem for most holiday villages Russian Federation. As a result, there is an urgent need to create an autonomous sewer system. Until recently, the only option for disposing of household and toilet waste was a trivial cesspool. It is worth noting that the process self-cleaning in such a primitive structure it happens extremely slowly. As a result, bacteriological and chemical compounds accumulate in the soil. pollution that disrupts the balance of the ecosystem in the country.
Popular way Protecting the soil from runoff is pumping out the septic tank, which is carried out using special equipment. It is possible to carry out this procedure manually, but this task is extremely labor-intensive and unpleasant.
In this article we will take a closer look at popular wastewater treatment plants. We will try to objectively assess the level of effectiveness existing options. Special attention we'll give modern methods wastewater disinfection.
What is the difference between a septic tank and a cesspool?
The main purpose of septic tanks is disinfection and subsequent removal of purified liquid. It is worth noting that solid fractions make up a small proportion of wastewater. Using cesspool such inclusions are mixed with the liquid. In turn, in the septic tank they are divided into solid and also liquid parts. In this case, the contaminated liquid in the septic tank is cleaned and constantly removed. What happens to the sediment (also called silt)? It slowly and gradually accumulates at the bottom. Due to this feature, the septic tank needs less frequent cleaning compared to a cesspool.
Differences in design
A cesspool is a reservoir simply dug in the ground. If you make the container waterproof, then within a couple of weeks it will be completely filled and the drains will begin to overflow. From here, the walls, as well as the bottom of the cesspool, allow liquid to pass through. Solid fractions of wastewater gradually accumulate and settle at the bottom. At the same time, the water seeps out little by little and goes into the ground. Sewage pumping must be performed when the cesspool is completely filled.
The operating principle and design of a septic tank are radically different. These are several sealed tanks that are connected by pipes. Before direct use, the containers are filled with water so that the liquid reaches the bottom of the pipes. It is worth adding that at the exit from the septic tank, a special well for filtration or a drainage trench is prepared, where oxygen decomposition of contaminants takes place.
A subspecies of the usual two-chamber septic tank acts as SGO (stands for deep biological treatment). This device is more compact. Disinfection of wastewater is carried out in one tank, which is divided into sections. The cleaning in the equipment under consideration is carried out by oxygen in combination with special microorganisms.
How often do septic tanks need to be pumped? What methods are there?
A pressing issue that worries owners of dachas and country houses. There is no definite answer, since the frequency is affected the whole complex factors:
- tank volume.
- activity of sewerage operation.
- the number of people who live in the house.
Statistics show that a cesspool should be cleaned once every six months. The septic tank wins in this aspect. If the bacteria are working well, pumping may be necessary once every three to four years.
There are two ways to clean septic tanks:
- use of a sewage disposal machine.
- solving the problem on your own.
The first method is more popular. Having used cleaning services, the owner only has to meet the special equipment and exercise control over the cleaning process. The second method is associated with certain difficulties and inconveniences. The sewage will need to be poured into a special container yourself, which will then have to be taken to a disposal facility.
What bacteria exist for septic tanks?
Bacteria that accelerate the decomposition of organic waste are conventionally divided into 2 types:
- aerobic bacteria– need oxygen for life;
- anaerobic bacteria- can live in liquid medium without access to oxygen.
The first category is more efficient, but aerobes require oxygen. Anaerobes, in turn, work great in sealed tanks. This information is provided for general development. When purchasing bioconcentrates, the client will not need any knowledge of microbiology. Manufacturers indicate on the packaging where the product should be used (septic tank, self-contained toilet, self-contained gas station, cesspool, etc.).
Introducing bacteria into a treatment plant is not difficult. The drug in liquid form is simply poured into the toilet and then flushed. In this case, dry products should be pre-mixed in warm water according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and sent to the treatment facility in the same way.
The approximate cost of liquid preparations is in the range of 500-700 rubles per liter. Bacteria must be introduced at least once every two to six months.
How much does it cost to help a vacuum cleaner?
When ordering pumping of a septic tank or cesspool, the potential contractor must provide information about the volume, as well as location treatment plant. This will make it possible to select equipment of a suitable volume (4-15m³) and equip it with a hose required length. Please note that the hose length can reach 50 meters.
The approximate cost of pumping out 1 m³ of septic tank is 850 rubles. Some companies use "flexible" pricing policy removal of sewage. In this case, the lowest cost is 850 rubles. per m³ is used when ordering pumping from 13 m³. If the client needs to pump out a smaller volume, prices increase to 1,200 rubles per m³.
The remoteness of the facility from the contractor’s base contributes to an increase in the cost of services. On average, you have to overpay 50 rubles per km when traveling outside the city. As a result, the resulting amount is added to the total cost of pumping out sewage.
To attract customers, certain companies set more low prices for pumping (around 600 rubles per m³), indicating in the tariffs the “minimum order” item equal to the full volume of the tank truck used.
The length of the hose also often increases the cost. According to the standard, the equipment is equipped with a six-meter hose. If he does not reach the treatment plant, then for each additional. six meters of hose the client is forced to pay extra from 500 rubles.
Septic tank without pumping - does ideal equipment exist?
Owners of houses without a central sewage system dream of septic tanks that do not require pumping. But treatment facilities that do not require maintenance have not yet been invented. A septic tank without pumping is usually called equipment with a sediment extraction frequency of no more than once every 3-4 years. Wherein bottom sediments(the so-called sludge) in such a septic tank is safe in bacteriological as well as chemical aspects. Thanks to this, they can not be sent to a special facility for subsequent disposal, but can be used on the site as a biological fertilizer.
What ensures such a long service life of a septic tank? The secret lies in the design of this treatment plant and the use of bacteria. By adding microorganisms to the septic tank water, the rate of natural decomposition increases hundreds or even thousands of times. As a result, the output water is sufficiently clean and available for irrigation. In addition, you can forget about the need to constantly remove a huge volume of sewage, which allows you to save on the services of sewer trucks.
Having decided to equip an autonomous treatment facility at the site, the owner receives a double benefit:
- no need to spend money on vacuum cleaners;
- Bottom sediment is a free, high quality fertilizer that can be used to grow plants.
How to make a septic tank yourself without pumping?
Before constructing a septic tank, it is necessary to calculate the capacity of the structure. Sanitary standards establish that the volume of the septic tank must allow water to settle for three days. As a result, the average human fluid intake per day, which is 200 liters, must be multiplied by three. We obtain the required volume of a septic tank for the disposal of wastewater that comes from one person living in private home, amounting to 600 l. Then 600 liters must be multiplied by the number of regular sewer users. For example, for a family of four people, a septic tank with a capacity of 2,400 liters (2.4 m³) is needed.
Having finally decided on the volume of the tank, excavation work should begin. Remember that the volume of soil to be removed must be equal to the capacity of the treatment plant + the total volume of the concrete walls, as well as the bottom of the septic tank!
After completing the excavation work, prepared reinforcement mesh should be laid at the bottom of the pit. We recommend installing a base underneath them. To solve the problem, you can use broken bricks or stones. This will provide a truly reliable protective layer for the metal. We recommend that the ends of the reinforcement protrude slightly onto the walls of the pit. This will protect the joints of the concrete bowl from possible cracks.
Then you should fill the bottom with concrete and leave it for several days to obtain the required strength. The next stage is the installation of wall formwork panels, as well as the installation of a partition between the chambers. Install between the shields reinforcing mesh. In addition, they need to prepare holes for pipes. After installing the pipes in the walls, concreting is carried out. To compact the concrete in the formwork, we recommend using an internal vibrator. If you don’t have a tool, you should “prick” the mixture using available means.
The drainage trench is dug with a slight slope from the treatment plant (there is about three centimeters of slope per meter of surface). The dimensions of this trench must exceed the diameter of the perforated pipe. This is necessary so that there is room for subsequent filling with crushed stone (we recommend choosing a fraction of 10-20). Having filled the bottom of the trench with crushed stone (the recommended layer thickness is around 15 cm), pour a five-centimeter layer of sand. Then they lay the perforated pipe, having previously wrapped it with high-quality geotextiles, which is necessary to prevent silting of the holes with earth and other particles. After the installation of the pipe is completed, the drainage trench is additionally filled with crushed stone, covered with geotextiles, and also covered with soil.
The design of the septic tank “lid” deserves special attention. We advise you to choose standard option, time-tested. Order a sheet of corrugated sheets of the required size and lay them on the concrete walls of the treatment plant. To prevent the sheet from bending under the mass of fresh concrete, it is additionally worth using reinforcing bars, which must be tied with wire to the sheet, passing it through holes prepared in advance in it.
If a two-chamber treatment plant is used, 2 cleaning hatches should be made. Hatch frames are made from angle iron and then carefully welded to existing reinforcing bars. The hole for the ventilation pipe in the secondary chamber should be made in the hatch cover.
The most popular and common mistakes when installing septic tanks, which over time lead to unnecessary and expensive troubles. And in some exceptional cases even to an explosion and fire.
A septic tank (please do not confuse it with energy-dependent aeration treatment systems) is a single or multi-chamber container in which wastewater is treated primarily by anaerobic bacteria, with further soil purification.
Insufficient septic tank volume
SNiP 2.04.03-85 requires that each portion of wastewater remain in the septic tank for at least three days. In this case, the minimum required level of cleaning will be achieved. With what cleaner water at the exit from the septic tank, the less often you will have to clean out the filtration well or replace filter systems, and the likelihood of bacterial contamination of the soil due to an insufficient degree of water purification is minimized.
According to standards, it is generally accepted that the volume of wastewater per person per day is 200 liters. You also need to take into account such a parameter of septic tanks as the maximum salvo discharge.
Cement-sand filling has not been made
For plastic septic tanks Backfilling must be made from a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:5. Under the influence of moisture in the soil, it will turn into a protective cement casing, which will protect the septic tank from heaving of the soil when it freezes, as well as from other movements in the soil.
If the pit with the septic tank is simply covered with earth, when the soil freezes or moves, it will put excessive pressure on the body of the septic tank, which can lead to its damage and further bacteriological contamination of the soil with untreated water.
The top part has not been insulated
The upper part of the septic tank should be covered with insulation and only then covered with earth. The insulation will help keep the temperature of the septic tank as high as possible and protect it from freezing in winter period during seasonal operation.
Typical wastewater temperatures are in the range of 10-16°C. The higher it is, the more active the vital activity of microorganisms will be, and the faster the wastewater treatment will be carried out. Most anaerobic bacteria are active at temperatures from 8 to 30°C (the higher the better). If the water freezes, the bacteria die, and water purification will subsequently stop.
Lack of attachment of the septic tank to the slab at high groundwater levels
If the groundwater level is high and exceeds the water level in the septic tank, it will begin to float like a real ship. The higher the water level in the ground, the stronger the Archimedean force will act. To prevent floating, the septic tank is placed on concrete base and before sprinkling they are secured with anchor straps. However, there are many ways to combat ascent.
No ventilation or drain pipe
The sewer pipe is a continuation of the sewer riser. It is displayed on the roof at a level of 15-50 cm above it. It removes the resulting gases from the septic tank, and also prevents the formation of air vacuum in the pipe during burst discharges.
The vital activity of bacteria is accompanied by significant gas formation. Here and carbon dioxide, and methane, and hydrogen sulfide. The last two are explosive. Therefore, gases need to be ensured to escape freely as quickly as possible. This is what can happen if you neglect ventilation.
But that's not all. Instant drain large quantity water creates a vacuum in the pipe, which draws water out of the water seals (siphons), thereby disrupting their operation. If the water seal has ceased to fulfill its role, odors and gases from the septic tank will enter the room. The drain pipe compensates for these vacuums and also removes gases outside, and not into the room, in the event that the water seals dry out due to a long break in operation. Also, in the absence of a drain pipe, a situation is possible where gas can pass through the water seals if the septic tank is tightly closed.
Another important point. The fan pipe must not be placed on external wall facade. And above the roof of the heated room, the pipe should rise only 15-50 cm to avoid frost formation and clogging in winter. After all, warm and humid air will flow through it.
Using gray pipes
Inexpensive pipes gray Designed for indoor installation. For underground installation, special external sewerage pipes are used (often they are painted red), which have more high degree hardness (marking SN4 – SN8).
When the ground freezes, gray pipes can be compressed, causing wastewater will get into the soil or the pipe will become blocked.
Incorrect pipe slope
Many people know that the slope of a sewer pipe must be at least 2 cm per meter of length, and they believe that the larger it is, the better. But that's not true. With large slopes, large fractions do not have time to be picked up by the liquid and can accumulate inside the pipes, which can lead to blockage.
Planting trees closer than 3 m
Tree roots are quite capable of breaking the tightness of the septic tank over time, therefore planting trees close to each other is not recommended. But planting one or two birch trees near a filtration well will significantly increase moisture removal. After all, an adult birch tree can absorb up to 400 liters of water per day!
Thoughtless introduction of bacterial additives
The use of bacterial preparations intended for cesspools will trigger a violent gas formation reaction in the septic tank, which will raise a lot of sediment from the bottom, which will lead to its removal from the septic tank and silting of the filtration system.
You should also avoid various bioactivators. They contain artificially grown cultures of bacteria, which, as a rule, do not reproduce and simultaneously suppress the activity of natural bacteria.
The best option for starting the processes is to transfer sludge from another long-running septic tank at the rate of 15 liters per person. As a last resort, you can use sludge from cesspools, provided that it has lain there for more than a year. If you do not add sludge at all, normal operation of the septic tank will begin only after six months or a year.
Failure to comply with rules and regulations
The rules are determined by SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures", as well as SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 " Hygienic requirements to protection surface waters" Failure to comply with the rules may result in fines, forced dismantling of the septic tank, and other “pleasures.”
The septic tank must be located at least 5 meters from residential buildings, and at least 2 meters from the neighbors’ fence. The water intake points, with a guaranteed lack of connection between the layers, are at least 20 meters away. At least 5 meters from a busy roadway. To reservoirs - at least 50 meters.
It is also necessary to take into account the possibility of access by a machine to pump out sludge and locate the septic tank no further than 10 meters from the access point.
Failure to comply with certain standards may result in erosion of foundations and bacteriological contamination. drinking water and conflicts with neighbors.