Make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. We make a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands: we strive for the ideal result. Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling

A suspended ceiling made of plasterboard allows you to hide all the unevenness of the floor slabs and passing communications. GCR can be easily cut and even bent, which simplifies installation ceiling structure with your own hands. A single-level ceiling is considered simpler to manufacture. If you need to visually enlarge the room or divide it into work areas, you will have to resort to installing a multi-level structure.

Before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials.

Tools you will need:

Materials you will need:

In addition to standard and moisture-resistant plasterboard, there are gypsum fiber sheets, as well as moisture- and fire-resistant plasterboard. Suitable for making suspended ceilings in dry rooms standard drywall. In rooms with high levels of humidity, for example, a bathroom or kitchen, you should use moisture-resistant plasterboard. Other types of plasterboard for home suspended ceilings are rarely used.

Manufacturing a single-level suspended ceiling

The easiest way for an inexperienced person to make his own is a single-level ceiling.

There are several advantages of this design:

• In case of subsidence of the foundation of the house, appearance the single-level ceiling will remain unchanged;
• Suspended structures take up a lot of space. In this regard, the single-level model outperforms multi-level ceiling;
• Ease of installation and lower costs for purchasing materials determine the main advantage of a single-level design over a multi-level analogue.

The only disadvantages include the impossibility of zoning the room, but this can be easily corrected by a combination of different lighting fixtures.

Preparatory work and marking

The installation of the suspended ceiling frame begins before the finishing of the walls, but at this stage they should already be perfectly aligned. If there is old finishing on the ceiling, it is completely removed, and all lighting fixtures are also removed.

Marking for the frame begins from the walls where the starting profile will be installed. Using a tape measure, take measurements from floor to ceiling in all four corners of the room, as well as in the center of each wall. The starting point for marking is the lowest corner of the room. If the suspended structure is supposed to have built-in lighting fixtures, a distance of 90–100 mm is marked from the ceiling to the mounting point of the starting profile. The absence of built-in devices allows you to reduce the distance to 50 mm.

The following marks are placed in two opposite corners of the room from the starting marking point. Now these points must be connected by lines, and they must be strictly parallel to the floor. So, at this stage, we have two walls with a marking line for attaching the starting profile. The last point is placed in the fourth corner of the room, drawing lines from it to two opposite corners.

On all four walls, the markings for the starting profile are ready and it’s time to draw the grid for attaching the ceiling profile.
The first to mark the attachment lines of the longitudinal guide profile. The distance between the lines depends on the location of the gypsum board sheets. If longitudinal fastening of drywall is provided, then the pitch between the profiles is maintained at 400 mm. When laying sheets transversely, the pitch is increased to 600 mm.

The last to mark are the transverse lines. Here a pitch of 500 mm is maintained. At the intersection of longitudinal and transverse lines, mark holes for attaching hangers.

The video talks about marking a single-level ceiling:

To ensure a perfectly flat ceiling, it is best to use a laser level when marking and making the frame.

Assembling a frame from a profile

The markings are ready, it’s time to connect the frame elements.

When performing frame installation work, adhere to the following sequence:

If everything is fine with the frame, you can start covering it with plasterboard.

The video shows a simplified method for installing a frame in a large room:

Making a multi-level suspended ceiling

The load-bearing base of the multi-level ceiling is the frame of the first-level suspended ceiling we have already discussed. All subsequent levels of the protruding structure have a smaller area relative to the previous tier. If we take, for example, a three-level ceiling, then the third tier will be the smallest in size, and its load-bearing base will be the frame of the second tier.

The advantage of a multi-level ceiling is more justified from the design side. Various changes and shapes made on the ceiling change the geometry of the room. Designers, thus, zone the room, create the illusion of increasing space, and combine lighting of different areas of the room with built-in lighting fixtures.

Among the disadvantages of a multi-level ceiling are the complexity of installing the frame, high costs for materials, as well as the large weight of the finished structure.

Marking and making a frame

So, the first level is already ready, now it’s time to build the second tier. Let's look at an example with a box. It is usually made up to 500 mm wide, and the height depends on the design project.

The manufacturing process of the second tier consists of the following steps:

After connecting all the elements, the second-level frame is considered ready. All subsequent tiers are made using similar technology.

The video shows how to assemble the second tier of the ceiling:

Covering the frame with plasterboard

Fastening of drywall begins after installation of all communications and distribution of electrical wiring. The sheets are cut out on the floor and, if necessary, holes are cut out with a crown for recessed lamps. GCR is quite fragile, and it is better to lift large fragments to a height with an assistant.

The sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 100–150 mm. A gap of about 2 mm is left between the joints, and the ends of the drywall themselves are cut with a plane at an angle of 45 degrees. Once all the gypsum plasterboard fragments are attached, the joints are sealed using reinforcing mesh and putty, and the screw heads are simply covered with the same solution. The edges of the internal and external corners of the structure are protected with metal perforated corners.

The suspended ceiling is ready. Now all that remains is to putty it, sand it and it can be painted or wallpapered. As you can see, you can make a plasterboard structure with your own hands, you just need to make every effort.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Now I will tell you how to install suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands in four stages, correctly prepare materials and select the necessary tools. You may have already come across such information, even on this site. But the fact is that each master brings his own installation nuances, making the work easier and improving its quality. If you are interested in my methods, then stay with me on the page. You will also have the opportunity to watch an interesting thematic video in this article as a supplement.

Single-level gypsum board ceilings

In most cases, installation of a plasterboard ceiling on one level is done in rooms up to 250 cm high to level the plane. Occasionally, too high ceilings in old-type houses are lowered in one tier, although in such cases several levels are most often made.

GCR parameters table

Abbreviation	View	General characteristics	Where is it used?	Surface color	Marking color
GKL	Ordinary	Does not stand out with special properties	For rooms with normal humidity conditions	Grey	Blue
GKLV	Moisture resistant	Covered with impregnated cardboard, has antifungal and hydrophobic additives in the core material	For rooms with normal and high humidity conditions	Green	Blue
GKLO	Fire resistant	Has special reinforcing additives in the core material	Near heating devices and open flames	Grey	Red
GKLVO	Moistureproof and fireproof	Combination of properties of GKLV and GKLO	Combination of use of GKLV and GKLO	Green	Blue

As I said above, you will need four steps to install a single-level gypsum board ceiling:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the rough surface, and also select necessary tools and materials;
2. The second stage will be marking for installation of galvanized profile sheathing;
3. Then you will need to mount the frame from UD and CD profiles;
4. And at the last one, final stage, you will begin installing drywall.

Ceiling plasterboard is used to level ceilings in 99% of cases. In special situations, such as high humidity, the presence or possibility of an open fire, or both, GKLV, GKLO or GKLVO can be used.

Preparation

It would seem that if the surface is covered with gypsum board, what should be prepared there? But nonetheless. Those who live in old-type houses will immediately understand what I mean - this is a rounding at the junction of the wall and ceiling, which was made instead ceiling plinth as a decorative decoration.

So, with a room height of 250 cm, this element will interfere with the installation of the UD profile around the perimeter, therefore, it needs to be knocked down. In addition, the instructions require the removal of plaster, which does not adhere well, and in some cases you will also have to seal the joints between concrete floors, but you will determine this yourself.

Tools you will need:

• hammer drill for knocking down plaster and making holes for dowels;
• electric or cordless drill (screwdriver) for assembling the frame and installing plasterboard sheets;
• special nozzle with lampshade to rest against a surface that does not allow the screw head to push through the paper;
• metal scissors for cutting galvanized profiles;
• drywall knife(or ordinary, construction);
• water or laser level, rule;
• chockline(painting cord);
• construction square, metric tape, pencil, nylon threads
• possible (if you install recessed lights), set of hole cutters for drywall.

You also don’t need a lot of materials, these are:

• ceiling plasterboard 6.5 mm or 8 mm thick;
• CD and UD profiles, perforated hangers;
• dowels and screws.

We mark the ceiling and walls for sheathing

If you live in an apartment or house where the ceilings are no more than 250 cm, then, naturally, space in height will be expensive for you, which means, first of all, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling. Of course, the easiest way to do this is with a laser level, but, if desired, you can do it “by eye”, if, of course, you have a good eye.

And from it you will need to go down at least 2.5 cm and put a mark at this level in one of the corners. Next, this mark is transferred with the help of a level to each corner, more precisely to each of its sides, and then all this is connected with a chokeline into one continuous line for reference.

We will make the load-bearing part of the sheathing from the CD profile, which is located in increments of 50 cm, that is, 5 profiles across the sheet. But to do this we need to pay attention to the corners in the room. If they have 90°, then all problems disappear automatically - we simply mark the ceiling every 50 cm for the supporting frame and that’s it. But if the angles are not right, then you will have to “play around” a little here.

We choose the most flat wall, along which the gypsum boards will be mounted and relative to it we find an acute angle, from which we will begin marking. Step back from this angle 50 cm and continue to the end with the same step. Then from the first mark, using construction square, make a line towards the opposite wall - this way you can move this mark, and then mark the opposite line from it.

Now all you have to do is connect the placed marks with a chockline through the ceiling, and you will get markings for installing hangers, but more on that a little later. For a visual understanding of what is happening, pay attention to the schematic drawing above - the step between the sheathing profiles in no place should exceed 50 cm (less is possible). If you are planning to install a chandelier and/or built-in ones, then it’s time to make markings for them.

Installation of sheathing

The next step in installing plasterboard ceilings involves installing UD profiles along an approximate line (along the perimeter) - the profile itself must be above the line so that you can see it. In general, UD manufacturers make holes with a pitch of 300 mm, but sometimes this does not happen. But you should not drill them separately from the wall.

Just put marks on the control line after 30 cm, apply the profile and make two holes at the same time - in the “hook” and in the wall.

If the plaster on the walls is good, then impact dowels can be used for fastening, but as usual, dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and screws 50-70 mm long are used. At the joints, you can not connect the profiles in the form of a seam, but simply put one into the other (edge) - this way you will get the most even line.

We have already marked the ceiling, so you need to install hangers along these lines at a distance of 60-70 cm, but if there is an increased load on the ceiling, then after 40-50 cm. By increased load we mean plasterboard with ceramic tiles - this option can be used on or in the bathroom.

Pay attention to the photo above - the suspension should be fixed inside the letter P, under the crossbar, but not behind the ears, since the suspension will be pulled back under load and this is inevitable.

Now you need to measure each CD profile - its length will be equal to the distance from wall to wall minus 5 mm by the thickness of the UD partition and the clearance for free installation. Just don’t cut all the profiles according to the same template - the wall may be uneven and you may have problems (and it’s good if the CD turns out to be longer than necessary!).

Insert all the CD profiles into the UD and pull them up with the ears of the hangers a little higher than the level so that the thread can be pulled under them.

The thread is stretched approximately in the middle of the ceiling along the sheathing - screws for the profiles are screwed into the lower shelves opposite UD (their length is 9-11 mm, for which they received popular name"fleas") A nylon thread is tied and pulled onto these screws, along which all CD profiles are aligned.

The distance between the thread and the profiles should be maintained at about 0.5 mm so that there is no contact under any circumstances, otherwise the level will fail. The ears of the screwed hangers are bent upward or to the sides so that they do not interfere with the installation of gypsum boards in the future, although you can cut them to use for other purposes, and it is not necessary to remove the thread - you can leave it.

If you plan to have any wiring in the ceiling cavity, then do not forget to install it - preferably, pack the wires in a corrugated plastic or metal hose and attach it to the rough ceiling.

Drywall installation

So, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is coming to an end and all you have to do is install the gypsum board on the sheathing profiles, which is not so difficult if everything else is done correctly.

But it should be observed certain rules. First of all, all fixed edges must be joined in the center of the profile - this is why correct markings for installing the sheathing are so important. You may, even most likely, have to trim the corner gypsum boards - don’t be shy about doing this - this is quite normal.

Remember, in the list of necessary tools we said that you need a special attachment with a lampshade (size PH-2), which will not allow the hat to push through the paper. So, look at the image above - you see three options and only one of them is correct, and the most convenient way to achieve this result is with the help of such an attachment.

Installation of gypsum boards on the ceiling - works experienced master

Do not try to repeat what you see in the top photo - this requires considerable experience and skill - I am showing this only so that you understand what an experienced craftsman can do. Even experienced drywallers prefer to work with two or three people, and in construction companies they use special lifts, but this is for very large areas installation

The distance between the screws in one row (along the profile) should be no more than 30 cm, but always at the edges of the sheets, and if the assembly is made from pieces, then this distance will certainly decrease. Don’t be discouraged when you assemble the pieces and there are gaps of about 2-5 mm between them - this is quite normal and such gaps are subsequently sealed with putty and reinforced with sickle, but this is the next stage of work.

When installing gypsum boards, do not forget to make holes for recessed lamps and route wiring under them (if provided). But they can be provided only if the ceiling cavity allows it. For LED devices, a distance of at least 4 cm is required, and for others - at least 7 cm.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that Chinese drywall, which has 6.5 mm instead of the usual 8 mm, behaves no worse without load, but its price is lower. I invite you to discuss this topic.

September 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Functionality and specifications plasterboard make this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by the modern construction market. GCR is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels the ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard will look impressive if complemented with original lighting.

Most of the tools used in installation can replace each other. Therefore, when making a list, you should focus on those that you have at home. To install a suspended ceiling you will need:

• pencil, construction or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
• hammer drill or hammer drill for making holes for dowels and screws;
• screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
• a hacksaw and a construction knife.

• profile;
• drywall;
• fasteners;
• metal screws, 6 mm dowels.

To complete the finishing of drywall you need:

• serpyanka mesh;
• sealing tape;
• primer;
• putty;
• roller or brush;
• spatula (large and medium);
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• acrylic or water-based paint.

For installation of the suspension system, two types of profiles are used:

• guides. Installed along the walls along a horizontal line outlining the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
• ceiling They are made in the shape of the letter “C” and consist of metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a suspended ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install suspended plasterboard ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material marked moisture-resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material not to lose its original qualities throughout its entire service life, despite high level humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface in the living room or bedroom, you can buy regular gray plasterboard with a sheet thickness of 8-10 mm. It makes no sense to take sheets of greater thickness for self-assembly of the structure. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Fasteners - parts that will hold suspended ceiling.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements you will need:

• straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
• crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
• Extensions are used to build up the profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as elements for fastening the suspensions. To connect two pieces of the profile, as well as fix the frame to the concrete floor, galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are attached to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before we begin installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we mark the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the bottom corner in the room, and step down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the rough ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed for lamps, which can be increased to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level; in larger rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. Once you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. The elements should be located from each other at a distance that is a multiple of the width of the gypsum board. For example, plasterboard sheets are produced in a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, it is best to fasten the profiles at intervals of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are placed on the lines that were drawn to attach the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with rectangles correct form and side length 50x60 cm.

Installation of a suspended structure frame - step-by-step instructions

The photo shows the frame of a suspended structure made from a profile

The frame for a gypsum board suspended ceiling is mounted as follows:

• On the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach the UD profile to the wall;
• We install hangers that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base using two dowel nails;
• Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling CD profile, we check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the base of the suspended ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with hangers;
• We first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fasten the strips in the hangers;
• We fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. Their ends will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal, transverse ceiling profiles and gypsum board sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. A small gap left during installation of the structure will act as a ventilation system, ensuring free circulation of air between the base base of the ceiling and the suspension system.

How to properly lengthen a profile

Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, which results in situations where the length of the CD profile is not enough, so it has to be increased. The simplest method, which is used by most professional builders, is to lengthen the profile using special single-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• insert the connector inside the profile;
• from the other end of the connector we insert the end of another profile strip;
• we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, bend the edges of the profile using pliers;
• Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is lengthened. For example:

• extension using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to further strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
• rack profiles in plasterboard construction sometimes they are connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding to the final stage of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, gypsum plasterboard sheets should be given time to adapt to climatic conditions premises. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When covering the ceiling, proceed as follows:

• cut a chamfer from the ends of the gypsum board sheet using a knife at an angle of 45° by 5 mm;
• Start attaching the first sheet from any corner in the room with self-tapping screws 15 cm along the edges and 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the gypsum board;
• at the junction of two adjacent sheets, leave 2-3 mm of free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the plasterboard and the wall;
• Please note that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. You will subsequently fill the recess with putty;
• Proceeding in the same way, cover the entire frame with plasterboard. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

• UD profile. The standard length of elements is 3-4 meters. To determine the required number of planks, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a larger value;
• CD profile. In this case, the standard size of the gypsum board sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option is installation in width. This method will result in much less material waste.

For one sheet of gypsum plasterboard you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling is long and the profile needs to be increased, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

• pendants. The first element is attached at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, you need to purchase five hangers;
• crossbars are usually made from CD profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
• single-level crab-type connectors are also attached every 50 cm between the suspensions. Thus, one profile 2.5 m long will require five crabs.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a suspended ceiling.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pieces per hanger). To install one crab you will need 8 screws.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling surface, dividing it by the same figure for one sheet.

Making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part of the finishing work. Seams and cracks must be sealed new design so that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junctions of the elements that unsightly gaps form, which can separate over time. To avoid such trouble, you need to carry out high-quality work to strengthen them:

• dry sponge or paint brush clean the joints from dust;
• Apply a layer of deep penetration primer to all joints, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
• after the primer has dried, apply sickle tape to the joints;
• prepare a special solution for Knauf joints. Carefully apply the mixture to the joints and press with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
• also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of compound;
• after drying, using fine-grained sandpaper, sand all putty areas, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
• If you are going to paint your structure, you need to finish puttying the ceiling with a thin layer of putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime it. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to coloring.

As you can see, installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, calculate and select materials correctly. Then the self-assembled structure will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

Video on topic

When renovating an apartment, a home craftsman is often faced with work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of view of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.

Thanks to the availability of a wide range of plasterboard sheets and various fastening devices for it, you can create a perfectly flat ceiling with your own hands, ensuring beautiful interior rooms. To do this, you will need a simple set of tools and the ability to use them with.

How to choose plasterboard for the ceiling

Since the entire structure is raised to a height and fixed there, you should pay attention to its weight. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to perform high-quality work and apply measures against collapse.

Types of drywall sheets produced by industry are described in the article. When choosing them for the ceiling when renovating an apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that are thicker than 12.5 mm. It is optimal to use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise total weight suspended ceiling structure can be quite large.

Comparative assessment of the weight of drywall sheets
Size and area of ​​the sheet in meters	Sheet weight in kilograms with thickness in mm
	12,5	9,5	6,0
1.2∙3.0=3.6 sq. m	36	27	18
1.2∙2.5=3.0 sq. m	29	22	16
1.2∙2.0=2.4 sq. m	23	18	12

It is enough to determine total area ceiling covering, and from it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet taken from the table, calculate the final weight.

Stages of installing a suspended ceiling

The work comes down to the sequential execution of technological operations:

• determining the plane of placement of the base surface and marking it on building structures;
• installation of a holding frame made of metal profiles, taking into account electrical wiring lines and low-current circuits;
• fastening plasterboard sheets;
• putty and surface finishing.

How to mark a suspended ceiling

The ideal solution is to mount the structure strictly in a position that is well perceived by our vision. It is convenient to use to implement various designs of designers.

When renovating an apartment with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use conventional hydraulic levels with bubble reference indicators or various designs of laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane and allows it to be completed quickly and efficiently.

In order to mark the depth of lowering the plasterboard surface from the ceiling, you will need to draw its horizon level on the walls.

The laser beam allows you to quickly identify the boundaries of the horizontal plane. To mark it, you should determine the lowest point on the ceiling slabs and step back from it by minimum size 4 cm. This distance is necessary to hide the profiles and conveniently secure them with hangers.

If they are installed close to the ceiling, it will be quite difficult to work, and a greater distance reduces the amount of free space in the room.

In the places marked by the laser beam, clearly visible marks are applied with a marker pencil. control points. The entire line is marked along them with a painting cord. To do this, it is secured at the edges and then abruptly released.

When marking, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

This is done along the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a single closed line along the walls. After this, it is necessary to draw markings for installing profiles along the width of the ceiling and attaching drywall to them.

Each sheet should be attached along the perimeter and center line. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be located 60 cm from the edge. At this distance from the wall, markings are made for attaching profiles.


Each line should coincide with the joint of the plasterboard sheet in the center of the intermediate profile. Along it, holes will be drilled in the ceiling at equal distances for dowels for fastening with self-tapping screws the suspensions that regulate and hold the intermediate profile.

It is convenient to mark ceiling lines along the long side of the room. You need to start working from one wall and gradually move to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Sheets of drywall will have to be cut for it.

How to install a frame for installing a suspended ceiling

The first designs of plasterboard sheets were attached to the ceiling through dried wooden slats. However, wood is susceptible to moisture, shrinkage and deformation. After some period of time, cracks and defects may appear on the outer surface. For these reasons modern technology involves installing drywall only on metal profiles specially created for this purpose.

General rules

The principle of installing a plasterboard structure is based on rigidly attaching a guide profile to the walls and installing an intermediate profile into it, which is additionally adjusted and held on hangers screwed to the ceiling.

From the standard range of profiles produced by the industry for fastening drywall, UD27 are suitable as guide models, and CD60 as intermediate ones.

You will also need ribbon hangers, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.

Installation of the guide profile

The line drawn on the wall serves as a guide for installing the lower surface of the mounted profile.

To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the installation site. After orientation on the wall, a marker pencil is inserted through the created holes, leaving a visible mark. Using the created markings, holes are punched with a puncher and dowels are hammered into them.

This installation will serve as a support for the entire suspended ceiling structure. It must be done reliably.

Fastening the intermediate profile

Its length must be strictly measured and correspond to the size of the room. If it is larger, then the excess part can be cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw. When standard size 3 meters is not enough, then the missing piece is increased by connecting through an adapter with a screw fastening.

Intermediate profiles prepared along the length are inserted into guides fixed to the wall so that their wide part of the base faces down to the plasterboard sheets.

Before performing this operation, strip suspensions are installed along the previously outlined lines on the ceiling. They serve to adjust the created horizontal plane of the suspended ceiling. When controlling the work, it is convenient to use a stretched thread or cord and a tape measure.

The indentation of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of about one centimeter is needed in order to conveniently fasten it to the suspension with a metal screw and adjust the level of the horizontal plane by inserting the tip of your finger into this gap.

After attaching the profile, the free ends of the suspension are bent to the side.

How to install electrical wiring in a suspended ceiling

The rooms should be thought out in advance, before you start renovating the apartment yourself. To do this, you should consider and determine the installation locations of junction boxes.

Clutter and hide inside building structures connection points for cables and wires are not allowed. Access to them must be free. Otherwise, in the event of a malfunction in the electrical network, you will have to look for the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.

Installation of electrical lines

Cables and wires for lamps located in a suspended ceiling are placed in a corrugated or metal sleeve that protects its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed to the ceiling or in profiles.

Create an intermediate fastening link or a separate suspension system, and spotlights can be mounted directly in sheets of drywall.

Here you should also include questions for lighting fixtures, ensure their required length.

Work with electrical wiring must be completely completed before installing the sheets on the frame.

How to prepare and attach drywall

Features of end preparation

Along the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, curly edges must be created that serve to fill the putty solution. On factory products they may have different profiles.

If it is necessary to cut sheets of drywall, then professional builders form edges at the joints created special tool.

U home handyman There are no such devices, but you can get by with a simple plane for processing wood.

Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the body and allows for an even, uniform cut.

You should not use an ordinary knife: you will end up with a crooked surface.

Edges are created in order to increase the amount of space for the putty solution. If you do not do them, then due to its insufficient amount, cracks will begin to form on the decorative surface over time.

Surface marking

On each sheet, before installing it on the ceiling, it is necessary to draw marking lines along which self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to the intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. An ordinary tape measure and painting cord will allow you to complete this job quickly and efficiently.

Installing drywall on the frame

The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can range from 12 to 36 kg. At the same time, it has large dimensions. Working with it and lifting it from the floor to the ceiling level is not entirely easy: you need an assistant.

Among the builders there are specialists who, with experience and prepared equipment, perform such work alone. The owner of the video Severkola demonstrates one of the methods of such editing.

We do not recommend repeating these techniques without specific construction experience and skills in handling drywall.

Features of fastening sheets to the frame

Installation of drywall is carried out using 35 mm self-tapping screws. In order for them to hold heavy weight well, they are screwed in at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10÷15 cm from each other. Fastening is carried out along the entire perimeter of the surface and the center line.

Pre-made clear markings of the suspended ceiling made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets ensure that the screws accurately fit into the fastening elements.

The head caps must be flat. They are slightly recessed into the surface of the sheet for subsequent convenient puttying and leveling.

In places where the sheets join, it is necessary to install additional profiles to ensure a tight fit of the drywall. The connection is made using transitional inserts fastened with threads or “Crab” type hangers.

Fastening sheets to them with self-tapping screws ensures increased rigidity of the structure and eliminates the formation of cracks during operation.

The general view of the created structure with the power cable out is shown in the photograph.

Putty and finishing

From Supplies For this work, you will need to purchase the putty itself and tape that reinforces the joints of the plates.

Technology correct execution The sequence of operations is well shown in the owner’s video “Front of work” “High quality ceiling putty.” We recommend that you carefully read this material because a certain part of builders violate these rules, simplifying their work.

A snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious and matches any design of the room. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which your neighbors and friends don’t have. Modern materials and technologies make it possible to solve this problem, gradually relegating whitewashing and painting to the background.

Master finishers offer various methods finishing of the ceiling space. The most popular types of ceilings are:

Tensioner- the most common technology for decorating ceiling space. Its essence is to attach synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film to plastic or aluminum profiles. In this case, it is desirable to have the tension material without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. That's why independent work Using this method of decorating the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous method of decorating the ceiling. The difference is in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beam for wooden floors or, as in attics, rafter systems) and the type of material for covering the ceiling - plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber boards are attached. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack and pinion. The ceiling surface is mounted from aluminum or steel plates treated with several layers of varnish. Installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity(kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling decoration is similar in design to a suspended ceiling. The only difference is that instead of gypsum boards, mirror plates are used. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the ceiling height. This design of the upper part of the rooms was in fashion 30-40 years ago. Nowadays it is very difficult to find a mirror ceiling;

Hemmed. This is a simplified version of a suspended ceiling. Ceiling surface This design is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are mounted not on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal frame fixed directly to the floor slabs. Such ceilings do not have the opportunity to make hidden wiring of various communications and use built-in LED lamps;

Adhesive- the simplest and a budget option finishing of the ceiling space. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square polystyrene panels (another name is styrofoam) measuring 50x50 cm to the ceiling surface. The tiles can be smooth or textured, painted in one color or with imitation wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or laminated protective film etc.;

Plastered. Using this technology, the ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with decorative plaster. Among the advantages of such a ceiling, one should note its durability and low cost, there are two disadvantages: high labor intensity and the standard appearance of a painted ceiling with simple painting;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles measuring 60x10, 120x60 cm, which professional builders call cassettes (slabs). Made from glass or pressed mineral wool. Attached to the ceiling using special frames. The cassettes have a variety of designs, which allows you to bring to life the most unusual ideas for arranging the interior in any room of the apartment (house).

Plasterboard suspended ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, the tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect is increasingly evident. The most beautiful design of the ceiling space is obtained by using suspended structures with sewn plasterboard. This technological solution finishing the ceiling allows you to:

• hide ceiling problems (misalignment, cracks, chips, visible joints, etc.);
• hide various types of wiring and cables;
• do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor costs and materials when carrying out these operations.

A plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of a metal frame in the form of a lattice, attached to the ceiling using hangers, and on the walls - to a metal profile. Cladding sheets, mostly plasterboard, are attached to the assembled grid with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

Suspended ceilings made of gypsum plasterboard have many advantages:

• long service life - 20-30 years;
• high strength - does not break when pressed or scratched;
• working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
• installation of the frame is possible for any novice builder;
• good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics using insulation;
• does not require special care - sometimes it is enough to go with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
• the widest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be cut into shapes, but also bent into curved shapes after soaking and drying with warm air;
• availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
• environmental friendliness - non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
• ease of installation of any types of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceilings also has disadvantages:

• constant repainting is required every 7-8 years of operation;
• steals the height of the room;
• requires finishing treatment of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
• becomes unusable when a small amount of water leaks from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
• is destroyed by minor errors in calculations;
• There is no possibility of installation alone - a minimum of 2 people is required.

As can be seen from the above pros and cons, choosing a suspended ceiling allows you to solve many problems with minor difficulties. However, stretch ceilings are more popular among customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - plasterboard or suspended ceiling?

A comparative analysis of which is better - suspended ceiling or plasterboard for decorating the ceiling space shows:

• The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers indicate a 10-year service life in the passport (in reality it will last about 15 years), and plasterboard can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint it regularly;
• In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceilings are approximately equal;

Important: if it is necessary to improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used for suspended ceilings.

• In terms of strength, a suspended ceiling has an advantage - it does not collapse at the slightest touch sharp object or a concentrated impact of low force, unlike PVC film;
• In terms of elasticity, plasterboard and suspended ceilings have parity - surprisingly, but the film can withstand loads of up to 100 kg/m2, which is clearly manifested when the apartment is flooded by neighbors above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of ​​6 m2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small streams of water began to appear due to delamination of the film;
• In terms of the ability to turn design ideas into reality, a suspended ceiling gives a significant head start to a suspended structure, especially in texture and color.

When comparing installation costs, a stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If you compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of gypsum board installation you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. for a full cycle of work, and for a suspended ceiling prices start from 700 rubles.

When performing work on a plasterboard ceiling yourself, the costs will decrease and will amount to 700-800 rubles/m2 (the price also includes transportation costs for delivering the material in the amount of 200 rubles/m2, this figure can change in any direction, but insignificant).

The speed of work must also be taken into account. A suspended ceiling can be installed within a day; a suspended ceiling cannot be installed within this time frame.

Conclusion: In some respects, a stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if you consider the issue in the long term, professionals advise installing a suspended ceiling - it’s cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed?

Installing a suspended ceiling steals 5-10 cm of the room's height (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed gypsum board is always determined by the installation of hidden lamps). Therefore, in “Khrushchev” buildings, with their small size both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), it is not recommended to install a plasterboard suspended ceiling.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design, the optimal installation is considered to be a single-level installation of plasterboard on the ceiling with a height of 2.7 m, a two-level installation with an apartment height of 3.0 m, and a multi-level installation with very high ceilings, 3.3 m. and more, premises.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work you should buy necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. The exact number of profiles, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can only be found out by completing part preparatory work, which, in turn, require appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let’s run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials earlier than the calculations made, but relying on them, i.e. We will tell you about the fifth stage of preparatory work before it begins.

In order to have an idea of ​​the cost of repairs, for those installing a suspended ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Name of materials	Quantity	Price per one.	Price
Drywall 3000x1200x6.5	6 sheets	360	2160
Profile UD (PN) 28*27*3000	7 pcs.	85	595
Profile CD (PS) 66*27*3000	21 pcs.	100	2100
Direct suspension	126 pcs.	10	1260
Crab mount	55 pcs.	12	660
Self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm	1 pack 1000 pcs.	300	300
Self-tapping dowels 6*60	266 pcs. (3 packs)	230	690
Screws "bug"	560 pcs. (3 packs)	100	300
Soil for gypsum boards	5 l	100	100
Gypsum putty	5 kg	200	200
Serpyanka mesh	2 units	50	100
Damper tape	20 m		550
Water-based paint	1 bucket 9 l	1900	1900
Electric wires	19 m	80	1520
Light bulbs	11 pcs.	420	460

Attention: in some retail networks The “crab” mount is indicated by a suspension, which does not correspond to its function.

Thus, the total costs are 13,895 rubles. The cost of finishing 1 m2 of ceiling is 655 rubles. This is only based on materials.

Will need to spend some family budget to purchase or rent the necessary tools. The numbers here are also not small.

Tools.

Tool name	Rent price	Purchase price
Hammer with attachments	300	2450
Screwdriver	200	3630
"Bulgarian"	200	2140
Laser level	300	2746
Hydraulic level	do it yourself
Plumb	do it yourself
Roulette	No	76
Level	No	100
Construction knife	No	78
	No	92
Chop cord (can be made)	No	55
Faux fur roller	No	29
Cuvette	No	23
Narrow spatula (up to 10 cm)	No	100
Wide spatula (30-35 cm)	No	225

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of gypsum boards and surface finishing. Installation of a suspended ceiling begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

1. preparation of the premises;
2. drafting;
3. calculation of the amount of material;
4. marking the ceiling and walls;
5. purchase of materials.

Attention: On many sites that consider how to attach drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of various kinds are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the information posted. Examples of inaccuracies:

• They suggest mounting drywall only on longitudinal CD profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

• incorrectly indicate the pitch between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
• it is recommended to retreat 10 cm from the wall for the first line of the frame;
• hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Preparing the premises

In a new building, all preparation of the room for the installation of the ceiling comes down to clearing it of debris. In a habitable apartment you need:

1. Remove all furniture from the room to ensure unobstructed access to any point on the ceiling;
2. If it is impossible to complete the first step, cover the chairs, sofa or closet with plastic film to prevent dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls for dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared to repeatedly move pieces of furniture from place to place, to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and to clean armchairs and sofas, because dust tends to get under the film, finding the smallest holes;
3. Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), and soot.

Drafting

For execution design work You will need a tape measure, a simple pencil (ballpoint pen) and a double notebook sheet, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. Using a tape measure, measure the length of each wall without taking into account protrusions and niches. If there are them in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is necessary to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, is necessary to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions in a certain scale are applied to a notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A diagram of the frame passage, as well as places for attaching hangers, is being developed. The following points are important here:

• Longitudinal profiles can be attached in increments of 40 or 60 cm, due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for gypsum boards with a thickness of up to 9.5 mm inclusive, the step is 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, heavier ones - 40 cm. Why these particular values? These figures are multiples of the standard width of a plasterboard sheet of 120 cm.
• Transverse profiles are attached only in increments of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum board;
• When the distance between the longitudinal profiles is 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling suspensions, while “crabs” are sufficient for the transverse profile. With a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. Marking of the passage of electrical wiring and places of fastening of lamps is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the one in the photo below.

Calculation of material quantity

To illustrate the methodology for calculating materials, let’s take the real dimensions of the room, and not simplified ones: length - 5.6 m, width - 3.8 m, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a protrusion of 15 cm.

1. Determine the footage of the guide strips (PN), size 28x27 mm - they are attached to the walls under the ceiling, serving as support for the frame:

• We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
• We find the quantity of the PS profile: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pcs., where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pcs. - the number of strips required to install the ceiling. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the quantity of a ceiling profile (PS) with a cross-section of 60×27 mm - a grid for installing gypsum boards is assembled from it. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install gypsum boards with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the pitch for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, for transverse ones - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and is constantly eliminating problem areas. Suspended ceilings were constantly faced with the fact that vibration violated the integrity of the plasterboard seams: they became covered with a network of cracks. That's why experienced builders wallpaper was glued on the gypsum board or applied decorative plaster. Today, the seams are sealed with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

We will carry out the calculation using the formula: K = P/L - 1, Where:

• K is the number of profile lines;
• P is the length of the room;
• L—step size (0.6 m).

Substitute the numerical values ​​into the formula and get the quantity:

• Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
• Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile will be 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length from 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the most best option- 3 m. Then you will have to buy 23 planks (68.6 / 3).

3. The length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, so they will have to be extended. In our example, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will occur in the crab, since the pitch of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of “crabs” is equal to the number of intersections of longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, Where:

• S—number of direct hangers;
• D—number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
• N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers into the formula, we find that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6×60 mm (8×80 mm) for installing guide profiles and fastening hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm; 2 pieces are needed to attach 1 hanger. A total of 266 pieces are needed.

7. Self-tapping screw “bug” LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., with a crab - 4 pcs., with a hanger - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fastening drywall 3.5x25 mm. They are used to attach gypsum boards to the sheathing. You will need 1 package of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased 3 m long so as not to make inserts (with a gypsum board length of 2.5 m, you will have to cut out a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, you will need 6 sheets ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 numbers are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Marking the ceiling and walls

In a new building, using a hydro- or laser level, the horizon line is marked. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. From it, measure at least 5 cm down (when installing built-in lamps - 10 cm) and form the ceiling line. For those who are encountering such concepts and methods for finding the ceiling line for the first time, we recommend viewing the article “”. Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with an installed floor, there is no need to cut off the horizon line - the floor will successfully fulfill its role. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydraulic level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling will be installed.

Along it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks for the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles are placed. A similar operation is carried out on the opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which a mark along which the profile will pass is made along the ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with colored chalk). If everything is done correctly, you get a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window, regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, the markings are initially placed on the wall with the window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but in increments of 50 cm. Places for attaching plumbs are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall in increments of 50 cm. This can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchasing materials

This subsection is discussed above in the “Materials and Tools” section.

Frame assembly

Work on installing a plasterboard ceiling begins with the installation of a supporting frame. Let's look at how to assemble it step by step.

Step 1. Holes are drilled around the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is pressed tightly against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the marked ceiling line. Marks for installing dowels are drilled through the metal in the wall.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the subsequent holes should be located every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2. Holes are drilled along the marks and dowels are driven into them. A damper (sealing) tape is glued to the back of the profile to prevent sound waves from reaching the ceiling from the wall, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible deflection of the ceiling at the junction of two guides, experienced builders advise strengthening the joints. To do this, a plate made of tin, plastic or plywood is placed inside the profiles, at the junction, and secured with at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The vast majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With this arrangement of the frame, large parts of the gypsum board corners adjacent to the wall remain completely unfixed. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints tear and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3. Direct hangers are installed along the ceiling, across the drawn line. In this case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle fastener. They can be secured with self-tapping dowels (2 pieces for each suspension) or anchor bolts which is more reliable. After securing the suspensions, their mustaches, using hands or pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4. Using fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. This operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - the frame tends to bend down under its weight. The thread (fishing line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally secured to the hangers’ tendrils (2-3 are enough), bent upward at the required height.

Step 5. Longitudinal ceiling profiles are installed. First, the PS profile is inserted into the groove of the PN profile at the mark location and secured to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched fishing line and a level. The protruding tendrils of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6. At the intersection of the frame, a “crab” mount is screwed to the longitudinal profile with “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7 The transverse profiles are attached, with the ends in the “crab” and a suspension in the middle.

Heat and sound insulation

If there are noisy neighbors upstairs or the top floor, the ceiling can be insulated mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. It is attached inside the frame using the so-called “fungus” - a special fastening system.

Drywall installation

To mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, step-by-step instruction is given below:

• Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the gypsum board to adapt to new conditions and accept geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored horizontally only;
• GKL is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a recess is cut out for the protrusion;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of gypsum board, only the last sheet is trimmed. In even rows, the first sheet is always shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is adjusted to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

• Using a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, chamfer along the edge of the cut;

• The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall - it is necessary for the exchange of air (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is screwed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to press the heads of hardware into the drywall manually, using a Phillips screwdriver, which will prevent them from twisting. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the self-tapping screws are screwed in “out of order”, not against each other.

Final finishing

After installing the suspended ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: finishing the plasterboard. The appearance of the ceiling space depends on the quality of its implementation. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

1. sealing connecting seams and marks from hardware heads;
2. puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
3. cutting holes for lamps;
4. painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
5. installation of lamps.

Sealing seams

The joints of the sheets are sealed with reinforcing tape, “serpyanka”. Gypsum putty is rubbed into the seams through it. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and screw heads.

Puttying drywall

Many recommendations for finishing gypsum board indicate required condition- applying a primer before puttingty. However, modern putty mixtures (“Vetonit LR+”, “KR”, “JS”, “Osnovit Ekonsilk”, “Plitonit KP”, “Kreps KR”) do not require a primer. Instructions for putting plasterboard putty can be found in the article “”, paragraph 2.5. "Drywall putty."

Cutting holes for lamps

Using the diagram drawn at the beginning of the ceiling installation work, the installation locations of the lamps are marked on the sheets of drywall. Holes are drilled using a removable bit for a hammer drill or electric drill. The crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. In crown sets cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with water-based emulsion

How to make a backlight

Without design solutions in terms of light, installing a suspended ceiling practically loses its meaning - the same effect can be achieved from a simply painted ceiling (except for the opportunity to hide some defects in the ceiling - in this case, simple ceiling repairs are several times cheaper).

In practice they are used various options backlight:

• Contour - the light is directed from bottom to top, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, along the entire perimeter of the room;
• Directional - light flows parallel to the ceiling surface. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine into the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
• Standard - lampshades are installed in gypsum boards, the lamps shine downwards;
• Figured - all lamps shine in different directions, creating an unusual lighting effect;
• Spot - the most complex, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with ordinary LED lamps Miniature LEDs are installed to indicate a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself, without the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - coming up with ceiling lighting for a specific room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. There are no particular difficulties in this design of the ceiling space. The work order is not much different from technological process for installation of one level:

1. plan in advance and draw on paper a level layout;
2. transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the levels of fastening of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
3. mount the frame for the first level;
4. bend the side profile to fit the selected pattern;
5. install the side frame;
6. mount the second level frame;
7. route the wiring for the lamps;
8. cut drywall for both levels;
9. attach plasterboard at both levels;
10. cut and then bend the gypsum board strip for installation on the side frame;
11. close the box;
12. conduct finishing installed ceiling;
13. cut holes for the lamps and then paint the ceiling;
14. install lamps.

Thus, installing a suspended ceiling is not difficult. There is only one problem: this kind of work cannot be done alone.

Video on the topic