This may be due to its unevenness, damage, the need for insulation, soundproofing, or simply updating. In view of the huge abundance of building materials, many are lost in the choice: what kind of fit better. Whatever the choice: linoleum, parquet or laminate, you can not do without a good and reliable foundation. For him, such a common building material as hardboard is perfect, the price of which is absolutely acceptable for such work.
Many have heard the name hardboard, but most do not even know what it means. This is one of the types of fiberboard ( fibreboard).
Production technology
Hardboard is a material made from waste products from the forestry and woodworking industries. The main waste is various types and sizes of sawdust, shavings, wood fiber, etc. They are mixed with special binders based on polymer resins, after which they are mixed and placed in a hot press. The material is produced in the form of a single strip, which is subsequently cut into sheets.
On the one hand, the sheet has a smooth surface, which is called the front side, on the other side, the surface is corrugated and is called the back side. The front side has a more aesthetic appearance, while the back is better bonded with various adhesive mixtures. In addition to polymers that make the sheet durable, rosin and paraffin are also added to its composition, giving it water repellency. Thanks to this composition this species material is absolutely environmentally friendly. In addition, regardless of the type of exposure, it does not emit any harmful substances.
Let us dwell in detail on laying hardboard on the floor.
Stage 1: preparation of the surface and materials
To begin with, we need to clean the surface on which we will lay the sheets from various debris, dust and dirt.
If you will be laying hardboard directly on concrete that you have recently made, it is important to make sure that it has dried sufficiently. Otherwise, hardboard for the floor will draw moisture from the concrete and deteriorate from this (warp, swell). Before laying the sheets, the screed must be primed. This will significantly extend the life of the hardboard base. In addition, for the same purpose, many craftsmen recommend impregnating sheets of hardboard before laying drying oil. In the very room where the work will be carried out, it is necessary to maintain a dry (humidity no more than 58 - 59%) and warm climate, and the air temperature should be at least +5 degrees C.
The sheets themselves, in accordance with generally accepted standards, must be laid out in a dry room and left for a day, in order to prevent warping.
Stage 2: fit
Fiberboard is laid out on a dry floor, adjusting them to the desired dimensions. The place where it is necessary, the sheets are cut at protruding corners, pipes.
At this stage, fiberboard is laid, but without gluing or fastening to the floor. In this way, you can avoid extra costs in the form of damaged sheets, because fitting is much easier when the sheet is not smeared with adhesive. It is important to remember that the plates must be laid in a run-up and that 4 corners should not converge in one place.
Stage 3: styling
Having prepared the base under the window, we proceed directly to laying sheets and fixing them. If you decide to glue the slabs directly onto concrete, you can use rubber mastic KN-3, building glue KS-3 (necessarily a non-water base), BOSTIK kp2 (kp5). Some masters also use very hot (up to 180 degrees C). After warming up, it needs to stand for 2-3 hours for the moisture to evaporate. After that, it is laid on the floor and sheets are glued.
In the process of gluing, it is important to make through slots in them. This will prevent them from deforming. In addition, immediately after laying the hardboard sheet, it is necessary to press it well with the help of some heavy object. When the glue dries, you can begin to glue the second layer of fiberboard, if necessary. Only at the end of these works is it possible to lay linoleum on hardboard.
The following video shows this process clearly.
One of the best options is laying slabs on wooden logs. To begin with, it is desirable to spread a waterproofing film over the entire plane of the floor. After that, the logs are attached to the floor at a distance of no more than 30 cm using dowels. On uneven areas, use screed pads to level the floor. Next, we make a transverse crate. The size of the cell should not exceed 30X30 cm. When the crate is ready, we can attach sheets to it using self-tapping screws. The distance between the screws along the perimeter of the plate should be 15-20 cm, and on the inner plane - 20-30 cm.
All work is greatly simplified and accelerated if hardboard is mounted on a wooden floor. In this case, it is enough to fit the sheets to the size of the room and simply screw them to the floor with screws or nail them. You can pre-lay a waterproofing or soundproofing coating.
Stage 4: final processing
We have already finished laying, now we need to seal the seams between adjacent slabs. For this we use putty. If you used self-tapping screws for fastening, they also need to be puttied. Having finished cosmetic work, you can safely proceed to the planned flooring, laminate or carpet.
In this article, we will talk about the popular building material- Fiberboard, consider the features of its use as floor covering. You will learn about the differences between brands and installation features. The article contains information about mechanical, consumer and operational properties Fiberboard for the floor.
Fiberboard - fiberboard, which in modern Russian terminology is also called MDF (from the English. MDF - Medium Density Fibreboard - medium density fiberboard).
It is produced by pressing ground wood material (ground sawdust, wood chips, shavings - natural fiber) and cellulose. Before molding (pressing) solid slabs, additives are added to the mixture:
- Synthetic resins for welding particles together.
- Water repellents (rosin, paraffin) to resist wetting.
- Flame retardants and antiseptics.
- Impregnation with pectol for hardening.
Soft plates of grades M-1, M-2 and M-3 are pressed " wet way»- raw materials moistened with water are sent under a hot press - without the addition of additives.
The material has been known for a long time and is widely used in construction, household products, furniture production and packaging all over the world. Accordingly, under different needs use "their" grade of this plate. In total, twelve varieties of fiberboard are known, which, in the context of this article, can be conditionally divided into two categories.
Solid boards (grades T, T-S, T-P, T-SP, T-V, T-SV, NT, ST, ST-S)
Laminated fiberboards are pressed boards coated with finely dispersed polymer-wood pulp. It has relatively high strength and fire safety. This is a well-known laminate or parquet board low classes (6-12 mm). Thinner panels (3-5 mm) are used for wall and ceiling decoration. Furniture elements (facades), packaging, decorative items are also made from this material (it lends itself well to processing).
Soft plates (grades M-1, M-2, M-3)
It is this material that is the object of interest of our article. The people often call it "hardboard" or "pressed cardboard" and there is a lot of truth in this. Up to 60% of recycled material is used for the production of soft plates (sheets) - waste paper, wood chips, bark, used corrugation. It is widely used in construction, furniture industry and packaging.
Characteristics of fiberboard M-1
As a sample, we will take the optimal common version of fiberboard grade M-1 (GOST 4598-86). Distinctive feature- no glue or resins are used in its manufacture (biologically pure material). His stats:
- Density - 400 kg / cu. m.
- Bending strength - 1.8 MPa.
- Compressive strength (10% deformation) - 35 MPa.
- Tensile strength - not standardized.
- Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.09 W / m ° C.
- Release form - sheets up to 3 m long and 1.2 or 1.8 m wide.
- Grinding, decorative (lacquer) or protective water-repellent coatings - on one or both sides.
As can be seen from the initial data, fiberboard refers more to heaters than to structural materials. For comparison, the thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene suitable for a similar application is 0.032 W/m·°C. At the same time, the bending strength of the plate is significantly inferior even to relatively weak wood - pine (79.3 MPa). However, the fibers are formed in the form of a plate for a reason - this gives the necessary advantages for using this material on the floor.
The use of fiberboard for flooring
The shape of the sheet or plate allows you to easily and quickly level surfaces, bridge gaps and create an intermediate preparatory layer. The ductility and brittleness of the material during bending, fracture and rupture tests do not play a role in this case - on the floor, fiberboard works in compression. In this sense, MDF is already closer to wood - the compressive strength of pine is 44 MPa (against 35 MPa for fiberboard).
With all the advantages mentioned above, one significant disadvantage does not allow its full use as facing material for the floor - low density. It causes low abrasion resistance, which is unacceptable for flooring. In addition, soft plates are “afraid” of water and quickly swell when wet. Therefore, fiberboard M-1, used on the floor, must be well protected from abrasion and moisture, which leaves them the role of an exclusively intermediate layer. In this capacity, MDF perform the following functions:
- Overlapping cracks up to 5 mm. This is often used by unscrupulous builders, performing repairs "quickly". The draft is blocked, but the floor remains cold. For high-quality thermal insulation be sure to check the sealing of cracks before laying.
- Plane alignment. Fiberboard smooths millimeter steps well old board gender. This must be done before laying a new floor, especially linoleum. Otherwise, the step will appear on it and the linoleum will break through over time.
- Noise isolation. It is due to its softness and relative looseness that fiberboard absorbs noise and vibration. According to this indicator, it is also appropriate to compare it with basalt wool.
It is also worth mentioning that fiberboard is a rather demanding material. It does not tolerate changes in humidity and is intended not only for interior decoration, and for residential and permanently heated premises. 10 cycles of significant moisture change will result in irreversible warping, even if the sheet is fixed.
Features of mounting fiberboard on a wooden base
Due to the low tensile and shear strength, the plate cannot reliably hold the force at one point - the heads of nails and self-tapping screws push through the material. The small thickness of the sheet does not allow you to make sweat to hide the hat. Hence the conclusion - there are only two ways to attach the sheet - a lot of small dots or glue.
Mounting on multiple points - effective method, but rather labor intensive. In this case, the sheet is fixed on small thin nails (12x1.5 mm) in increments of 100 to 250 mm. Nails create a uniform pressure on the entire sheet, and the force is distributed not by 20-30, but by 200-250 points. In addition, their small caps do not stand out on the surface of the fiberboard.
This method has one critical contraindication - a shaky foundation. If there is even an inconspicuous backlash, it will certainly result in a gradual exit of the nails from the seats and a rupture of the linoleum. It is not possible to use self-tapping screws due to the size of the cap. The point set method is relevant only on a wooden base.
Glue mounting. Fiberboard in the basic version (sanded on one side) is well suited for working with PVA glue on the rough side. Glue perfectly connects the material to the wood surface. If you need to level the old wooden floor, it is better to use the combined method - grease with PVA glue and fix it on small nails. The cost of PVA glue is 1.2-1.5 cu. e. for 1 kg.
Installation of fiberboard on concrete (screed)
When mounting on concrete or screed, there are nuances that need to be taken into account in advance:
- The base must be flat, without drops.
- Humidity of the cement base is not allowed (blocked special formulations— primers).
- An even pressure must be ensured.
- Concrete of factory floor slabs has extremely low adhesion.
subspecies this method is an installation on a double-sided industrial tape, designed specifically for gluing wood, PVC, PPR to concrete. A bay of such adhesive tape 460 m long and 12.5 cm wide costs about 10 USD. e. (DK Film, DURACO, USA).
When laying on glue on concrete, it is recommended to arrange more than one layer - it is better to block cold concrete securely. The clamp can be organized as follows: lay the boards on the surface and strengthen them with dowels to the screed (the sheet is already laid on the glue). After the glue has dried, remove the boards, fill the mounting holes with liquid nails.
Operation of fiberboard on the floor
There is an opinion that if you paint fiberboard with enamel, it will make a good floor covering. This is not the case, since the sanded surface has poor adhesion. In addition, the surface is sometimes covered with a thin layer of water repellent.
Even a sheet impregnated with a water repellent should be protected from moisture by all means. The simplest and most affordable is the impregnation of the finishing surface with drying oil (on which the finishing layer will be laid). The cost of drying oil is 1-1.2 c.u. e./liter
Also, the material is well suited for rough filing of insulation (from the inside!), Especially mineral wool - fiberboard is vapor-permeable and allows the insulation to “breathe”. The plate is processed very easily - it is literally cut with a knife. The cost of fiberboard in the basic version:
- with a thickness of 2.5 mm - 1.5 y. e. / m 2
- with a thickness of 3.2 mm - 2 at. e. / m 2
Oddly enough, but among the most modern materials alternatives to fiberboard M-1 have not yet been found. Manufacturers can only experiment with its composition, adding hardeners and flame retardants, and vary consumer properties. This cheap, light and convenient material is indispensable as an intermediate leveling layer when finishing the floor.
Let's first briefly recall what a fiberboard (MDF) is. It consists of pieces of wood impregnated with a special adhesive and pressed under high pressure and at high temperature. This production technology is typical for all types of fiberboard. Each specific type differs in density, impregnation materials and surface grinding (drawing). In this article, we will consider such an application of this material as a fiberboard ceiling finish. In order to make ceilings from fiberboard with your own hands, you do not need to have any special skills or special knowledge.
For each room you need to choose suitable look material. For a living room, you can take soft grades of fiberboard, which will better let air through, in other words, “breathable”. To sheathe a fiberboard ceiling in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to order sheets of increased density (they absorb moisture much less) and impregnated with a special antifungal solution that will prevent the appearance of.
Some "specialists" practically do not pay attention to the mass of the wood fiber board, and it sometimes reaches 30 kg. Imagine what kind of load is created on the ceiling, sheathed with such "weightless" fiberboards! Therefore, we remind you once again - pay attention to the brand of the plate: the lower the density, the lighter the plate. It should be noted that the density of the material is directly proportional to the degree of moisture resistance and strength.
Fiberboard ceiling cladding technology
Let's look at how to sheathe a fiberboard ceiling. The plating process is divided into two important stages:
So you've completed preparatory work and purchased fiberboard sheets. They must be laid on a flat surface and these sheets should be left in the room in which the fiberboard ceiling will be sheathed for about a day or two in order to equalize the temperature and humidity of the sheets with the microclimate in the room.
Installation work is best done by two people - this is best option. It’s not worth doing the work alone - you can break the sheet or the fiberboard sheet will fall on you or along with you.
Mounting methods
For fixing to the crate, you can use building brackets (in case of mounting on wooden beam and using a construction stapler), nails or self-tapping screws. Please note that in the latter case, you need to countersink each "breakdown" (make a recess under the hat). Ways of fastening to the ceiling depend on the density of the sheet. We remember that the denser the fiberboard sheet, the heavier it is, and, accordingly, the stronger materials for fastening. Protruding iron from staples or nails must be carefully puttied, because over time these iron parts will rust and show through paint or wallpaper.
The procedure for fixing a fiberboard sheet
First you need to fix the sheet according to the guide rails. To do this, the sheet must be lifted, pressed against the guide profiles and fixed with several fasteners along the edges of the sheet. Important detail: This is a pre-commit. Therefore, do not use staples for this. Fix the sheets with long nails or thin screws that will protrude from the fiberboard. That is, do not completely hammer them, so that you can then painlessly pull them out. The sheet fixed in this way is checked with a rope, which is pulled across the entire room. If the sheet is unevenly attached, then it is relatively easy to pull out the nails and trim it.
Now we move on to fixing the aligned sheet. To finally nail the sheet to the ceiling, you need to start from one edge with a step of 15 cm. In this way, we gradually go through the entire sheet, and there will be no bulges on the material.
Finishing work:
Finally, you have finished mounting the fiberboard ceiling, everything turned out smoothly and without cracks. Now with clear conscience Let's start finishing work.
Fiberboard ceiling, look at the video:
In conclusion, we will take a closer look at the third option, how to paint fiberboard on the ceiling with paint.
If you do not know how to paint the fiberboard on the ceiling, then we recommend using a foam roller. It will paint over the microrelief of the surface well, evenly distribute the paint and the hairs will not leave it. If you buy a fur roller, then there is no guarantee of its quality. In addition, the fur roller leaves a micro-pattern of hairs, which does not always resolve on the ceiling, but, on the contrary, becomes more convex and noticeable under the force of gravity. Use special telescopic handle and it will be easier for you to do the work.
Among the options for finishing and leveling the floor, you can choose the most economical and simple materials. One of them is laying fiberboard on the floor. So accessible and at the same time practical option will make the surface as smooth as possible at the most minimal cost. The material has both advantages and disadvantages, which we will discuss today. You should also take into account some of the nuances regarding the installation of fiberboards on a wooden floor under linoleum. In our article you will find answers to many questions that interest you.
Hardboard on the floor. Advantages and disadvantages
You can level the subfloor with fiberboard boards. Before laying linoleum on fiberboard, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the positive and negative aspects given finishing material.
Pros:
- Low price and availability. Prices for fiberboards in hardware stores are low, which allows absolutely anyone to purchase the material in the right quantity.
- Ease of installation. In order to mount the sheets on the floor, you need a minimum of effort with the same few tools. The only thing you need to purchase in advance is the fasteners for installing the product. When covering fiberboard under linoleum, even a beginner will not have any difficulties.
- Ease of handling the material. To cut it, you do not need an expensive tool that not everyone can work with. You can cut boards with high quality using a cutting or sawing tool, for example, a sharp knife or jigsaw.
- Light weight. This advantage will allow you to get the job done without outside help.
- Ecological purity. Recycled natural wood waste makes up the majority of fiberboard. It is for this reason that the material can be safely used even for flooring and the manufacture of children's furniture.
- Lack of smell. An unpleasant resinous smell is completely eliminated in the material, rather the opposite - the coating smells like wood.
- The possibility of using fiberboard for the floor as an insulating layer.
- Long service life. If the plates are selected correctly, the load is correctly distributed, you take good care of them, then long service material is provided.
Flaws:
- Afraid of water. Fiberboard is considered a non-moisture resistant material, since if water gets on its surface, it can swell and change shape. Thus, the coating becomes unattractive, and the paint or other finishes are mercilessly deformed. It is for this reason that fiberboard should not be used in the kitchen or bathroom.
- Fragility. In the event that there are voids under the sheets, then there is a risk of their destruction. Some types of fiberboard can break if they are strongly bent.
- High fire hazard. The material ignites quickly and also burns quickly.
- Rapid wear on the face. If you do not cover the boards with a finishing agent, then outer side deteriorate and lose its original appearance.
Kinds
Before laying fiberboard on a wooden floor, you should familiarize yourself with the classification of this material, which will be discussed later.
Thickness:
- Soft. Such types of sheets have a low density, which is not more than 350 kg / m. It should also be noted that they do not differ good level soundproofing. Soft fiberboard sheets are most often used for finishing rear walls furniture and as internal shelves for drawers.
- Semi-solid. The density of such wood sheets an order of magnitude higher than the previous version - at least 850 kg / m3. They are used for finishing cabinet furniture, but such fiberboard sheets are stronger and less flexible than soft counterparts.
- Solid. The density of such sheets varies between 850-1000 kg/m3. They have a finely porous structure and can be used for the manufacture of some doors and for furniture. Fiberboard under linoleum on a wooden floor with T-B marking differs in the increased resistance to moisture and has no tinting on the front side.
- Superhard. These are the thickest sheets. Their thickness exceeds 1000 kg/m3. Fiberboard must be treated with pectin to increase its strength by at least 20%. It is the superhard material that is used in the construction of partitions, as a floor covering or for wall cladding. You can also make furniture or a door leaf from it with your own hands. The front side can be safely painted with paint, varnish or coated with a primer.
To size:
- Width - from 100 to 180 cm.
- In length - from 120 to 275 cm.
Important! When choosing a particular option, be guided by simple rule: the more material, the better, and the fewer seams there are on the surface of fiberboard, the more reliable it is and it will be easier for you to work.
According to the method of fastening
Let's look at the three main options for fixing wood-fiber boards:
- With the help of an adhesive.
- Nails.
- Self-tapping screws.
The choice of mounting method directly depends on the type of surface base and on your personal preferences.
Substrate for fiberboard on a wooden floor
So, we have come to the most important thing: how is hardboard laid on a wooden base? Correctly laid on top of the slabs on the wooden floor will hide all the bumps, thereby creating a perfectly flat substrate for linoleum.
Progress:
- We carefully prepare the wooden base.
- We replace rotten boards with new ones, if any.
- We process the base with a grinder.
- We lay the plates from the corner of the room, not forgetting to observe the gaps from the wall surface. We fix fiberboard to the floor only with nails or self-tapping screws, since the use of glue gives a dubious result. The most important thing is to drown the caps of the fasteners into the surface of the plates so that the protrusions are not visible on the linoleum. We continue to work with a fastening step of 100-150 mm.
- After fixing all the plates to the floor surface, we make the final finishing of the base. We have formed neat joints between the stacked sheets, which we first carefully grind sandpaper, remove all dust, and then putty with sealant or any other wood putty. Re-putty areas of already dried putty, remove the remaining dust with a household vacuum cleaner.
- At this point the alignment is complete. wooden base under linoleum.
Laying linoleum on fiberboard
To complete the full picture, we offer a small master class on attaching linoleum to wood-fiber material, which is already installed on a wooden floor. The whole process goes like this:
- We prepare linoleum for laying. We leave it to lie unfolded for three days. This is necessary so that the structure of the material gets used to temperature conditions premises. After these simple manipulations, the sheets will become soft and pliable to perform. further work. If the waves on the surface of the linoleum are quickly and well smoothed out, then this means that it is time to use the material.
- We lay out the linoleum sheet in the room so that all its sides overlap slightly, taking into account the walls. If you have a large room, which requires the flooring of several pieces of material, then they need to be correctly combined according to the drawing. Make sure that there are no gaps at the joints.
- We cut off the excess edges around the entire perimeter of the floor surface. We bend the edge of the canvas so that it fits as tightly as possible against the wall. Now we press the place of the fold of the material with a long ruler, and then we cut it off sharp knife extra piece of linoleum.
- We glue the canvas to the floor with mastic. Roll up the sheet on a dust-free surface. We perform the previous steps on both sides of the canvas, reaching the middle of the sheet. We move from the roll to the wall, lubricate the base of the linoleum with an adhesive.
- Roll out one side of the roll on the greased floor. Do not forget to roll the linoleum with a roller in the direction from the center of the canvas to the wall - this will help remove excess air. Lay the second half of the roll in the same way. Now it remains only to install the plinth.
How to choose fiberboard for the floor?
Agree, no one wants to buy material, install it on their own and in a few years be disappointed in its quality. It is in order for the final result to please you as long as possible and the material to serve without any complaints, it is very important to approach its choice responsibly and purchase the highest quality option. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the main criteria when choosing fiberboard:
- Wood fiber coating must have a quality certificate. It should report that the material does not contain harmful components and that it has passed the sanitary and epidemiological check. The thing is that some unscrupulous manufacturers can add hazardous substances to raw materials to improve the quality of their products. Yes, by doing this they will several times increase the resistance of the material to moisture, but it will contain impurities that are dangerous to human health. For example, emitted formaldehyde can increase the risk of malignant neoplasms and respiratory diseases. In residential premises, it is strictly forbidden to lay fiberboard of dubious quality.
Do not be afraid to use fiberboard to level the floor . This inexpensive material will do its job perfectly, and most importantly, it will save you from long, expensive and time-consuming work.
Among different options leveling and finishing the floor is as cheap and simple as possible. One of them is laying fiberboard on the floor. It's practical and affordable option, which will save the surface from minor irregularities. Fiberboard has its own characteristics and contraindications for use - all this, as well as how to properly lay the material, will be discussed in this article.
Fiberboard as a material is known to everyone. Sheets are used for upholstery of the back wall of cabinet furniture and for various other purposes. Fiberboard is a sheet product made on the basis of waste from wood processing enterprises. These wastes are subjected to steaming, grinding, mixed with resins, water repellents and antiseptics, and pressed under high pressure. The result is flat and even, but at the same time quite soft sheets.
On a note! The abbreviation "DVP" stands for simply - it is a fiberboard.
The dimensions of the fiberboard sheet are standard - 3.2x1700x2745 mm, although the thickness can vary from 2.5 to 4 mm. On the front side, the material is smooth, but on the wrong side it is rough to the touch, having a mesh pattern, which appears due to the fact that during production the material is laid and dried on a special mesh with small cells. There is always a demand for fiberboard, you can buy sheets at any hardware or hardware store.
Fiberboard is also used for finishing and leveling floors. Especially often it can be found in old apartments and houses, where the subfloor is usually made of wood, not concrete. Here it acts as a leveling material before laying the finishing floor coverings - carpet, linoleum, etc. Also, fiberboard can act directly as a finishing material, but it needs to be applied with a final decorative layer - for example, paint.
Description and types of fiberboard for the floor
There are several types of fiberboard. Basically, they differ from each other in terms of density.
Table. The main types of fiberboard.
| Types | Characteristics and description |
|---|---|
| These types of fiberboard have a low density - it is equal to no more than 350 kg / m3. They do not have good soundproofing properties. Typically, such sheets are used as the back walls of cabinet furniture, are used to make the bottom of furniture drawers, etc. Types of soft fiberboard: M1, M2, M3. |
| The density of these types of wood sheets is already higher - at least 850 kg / m3. Similarly soft species, these fiberboards are used in the manufacture of furniture, but are more durable and less flexible. Marked with the abbreviation NT. |
| The density of these sheets ranges from 850-1000 kg/m3. They are low porosity and can be used in the manufacture of some types of doors, as well as for the manufacture of furniture. Types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP; T has the usual coverage, y T-S external side covered with wood fibers, T-P sheets dyed, T-SP also have a slight tint. There is also T-B sheets, which are highly resistant to moisture, while not having tinting on the front side. |
| Sheets with a maximum density - over 1000 kg / m3. Raw materials must be processed with pectol, a substance that increases their strength by 20%. It is these sheets that are used in construction: partitions are created from them, floors are covered with them or walls are sheathed, they are used for various finishing works. Also suitable for making furniture and door leaf. The front side can be coated with paint, primer, varnish. They are marked as CT having a standard front side, and CT-C having a finely dispersed front layer. |
Fiberboard grades T, T-S, T-P, T-SP may be marked with a quality group (A or B), their front side may be of the 1st or 2nd grade. By the way, T is hardboard, which is produced by the wet method. Hardboard can be used for wall cladding, as a substrate for laminate and other floor coverings, for sound and heat insulation of floors, and interior decoration.
Advantages and disadvantages of hardboard flooring
Fiberboard is often used to level a subfloor or base and is suitable for almost all surfaces. This material has a lot of advantages, and therefore is in great demand.
Advantages of laying fiberboard on the subfloor.
Disadvantages of hardboard as a floor covering.
- The material is afraid of water. When moisture gets in, the fiberboard begins to deform - it rises and swells. Thus, the sheet completely loses its appearance, the paint on it and other finishes are also deformed. Do not use fiberboard in the kitchen or bathroom.
- fragility. If there are cavities under the fiberboard sheets, then with a strong mechanical impact, the material is easily destroyed. It also breaks easily when the sheet is strongly bent.
- High fire hazard. In the event of a fire, fiberboard will be quickly engulfed in flames and burned.
- Front wears out quickly. If the fiberboard is not covered finishing material, then quickly shuffles out and loses its appearance.
- If fiberboard sheets are laid in an unheated and damp room, then they deform, begin to exfoliate.
How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor
In order for the final work to please the owner for a long time and serve without complaints, it is important to approach the choice of material with all responsibility and buy a quality option. There are several criteria that will allow you to choose the fiberboard that is ideal for each specific case.
