Make a sewer system in a private house with your own hands. How to properly organize sewerage in a private house - step-by-step instructions. Methods for cleaning sewer drains from a private home

To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. In suburban areas there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of the home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.

Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is completely justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in your country house with your own hands. different ways(from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and we will also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, which includes external and internal piping diagrams.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
2. A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here wastewater will be separated into solid large fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition solid residues can be acquired by aerobic bacteria.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings 1–1.5 meters in diameter, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter the wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm per linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
9. The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations are convenient and efficient; they are indispensable for large suburban buildings. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for narrow circle summer residents

Laying the external main

It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.

The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the main line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm; their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. In two-chamber septic tanks, the septic tank occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber septic tanks ½. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in addition to organic matter, wastewater also contains insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. This can be done with a fecal/drainage pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.

To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you will get the daily water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to drain pipe– 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.

Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make their work more efficient. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.

Before installing the finished septic tank structure, it is necessary to determine a suitable location for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water will flood the device’s equipment in the spring.

After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and construction hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. The insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous system for wastewater treatment, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for realizing your plans is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.

The following disadvantages deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers of solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is carried out incorrectly, the septic tank will not be airtight, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.

The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.

If there are few people living in your house and a minimum of plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer system, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before the beginning concrete works, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail whole line inconvenience. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Usually the rings are fastened together with mortar, but for greater structural reliability they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.

Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. WITH outside tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings/backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be carried out with soil with a large percentage it contains sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design made of reinforced concrete rings.

To set up an autonomous sewerage system based on the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. It could be old metal/ plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
4. Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are secured with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab must be installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.

For seasonal use, sewerage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a lid, you can use an appropriately sized piece of wood or one provided by the manufacturer. For installation metal septic tank you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and the bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

To install a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory-made polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextiles – 80 m2;
• sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee – 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
• plumbing tape – 1 pc.

Tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a cottage/small country house If used sparingly, standard plastic barrels will do. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.

For private homes with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too long distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:

• there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
• On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.

A sewage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. The graphic part of the design documentation, in accordance with which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88“Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”;
• SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution”;
• SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”

When determining the volume and bandwidth sewer pipelines must be guided by the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring property and 15 m to the drinking water.

The diagram must describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage systems, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, and its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• Volume of salvo release- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Wastewater treatment plant performance. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is above the level groundwater by 1 m;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). The design of the structure, installation method, further service and exploitation;
• Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment plants are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Construction site topology– terrain, slope direction, proximity of water bodies and the presence of potential discharge sites for treated sewage water;
• Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost depend on these factors. installation work, the need for additional or purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle.

Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures are allowed to be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• underground filtration field;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.

Septic tank

The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:

Storage containers are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to sources/wells drinking water. A significant drawback is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.

With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into filtration structures, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, it seeps into the ground.

Filter well

The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate bumper;
3. Pipe for the flow of wastewater.

For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. The filter layer is gravel of medium fractions, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container again, in order to avoid excessive soil pollution. The material used for making walls is often plastic (with holes in the masonry). large diameter or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
• Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.

Filter trench

A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology that is used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

Components of the WWTP scheme

The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration units.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. Do not use overly aggressive products in everyday life chemical substances which can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here, the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
3. In the third section - the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or drain pump.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The internal sewage system includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures: , ;
• Sewer riser and a ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house, the standard slope indicators are often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water and accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of the dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes

Diameter, mm	Optimal slope	Minimum permissible slope
50	0,035	0,025
100	0,02	0,012
150	0,01	0,007
200	0,008	0,003

The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms may be carried out in an open manner. Fastening is carried out using special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.

Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct styling sloped pipes:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the assistance of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The sample material is not susceptible to corrosion and the aggressive effects of household chemicals, and has a long service life. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:

• HDPE (high density polyethylene)- affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. Maximum working temperature should not exceed +40°C;
• PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- a material with an optimal combination of cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term use, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has the appropriate structural element- bell The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
• A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or regular liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled out 1 cm from the socket.

Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
2. Determining the location of the septic tank on a personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. Installation of an internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of septic tank volume

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Type of housing and type of life activity	Consumption, l/day per person
Residential building equipped with running water and sewerage system without bathtub	125÷160
A residential building equipped with a water supply and sewerage system with a bathroom and local	160÷230
Residential building equipped with a sewerage system and a centralized hot water supply system	230÷350
Taking a shower (average 15 min)	150
Using the toilet	8
Usage	40÷70
Usage	15

The calculation formula is as follows:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , Where

V – volume of the septic tank in m3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q – average consumption water per person in m3;

3 – number of days of a complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, for a family of 4 people you will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To make calculations easier, we have developed a convenient calculator especially for our readers.

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 m 2 of the filtering surface of the well:

Composition of the filtrate	Maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 /day on 1 m 2 filter surface
	For year-round use of a private residential building	During seasonal use of a country house
Gravel, crushed stone	0.15÷0.20	0.18÷0.24
Coarse sand	0.10÷0.15	0.12÷0.18
	0.05÷0.10	0.06÷0.12

Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:

Composition of the filtrate	Maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 /day per 1 linear meter of drainage pipeline
	Up to 500	500÷600	More than 600
Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand	0.012÷0.025	0.0096÷0.0225	0.0084÷0.02
Fine sand, sandy loam	0.006÷0.020	0.0048÷0.18	0.0042÷0.016

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close to each other as possible; this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:

• must be connected directly to the main riser of the sewer system at a minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
• The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside;
• The maximum distance for connecting plumbing fixtures to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and for the toilet 1 m.

Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank

To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.

Article

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place during the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the craftsmen correctly note, is most often installed after the building is built.

Schemes and views

IN big houses where there are many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this should be done, despite the subsequent hefty fees.

If not, you will have to build autonomous sewerage.

Internal sewerage: diagram and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each home.

Here you can create the scheme yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like that of specialists. But if you act wisely, you can use it to lay a pipeline and determine the required amount of equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify positions for the sewer pipeline (STP), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the shaped elements for the pipeline and the distances from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. This work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or heating system, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10–11 cm.
2. For wastewater from kitchen and bathroom a pipe of 5 cm is used.
3. Turns in the sewer should be made with two elbows. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Typically these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first ones are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products made from the other two specified materials are becoming increasingly famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high temperatures Wastewater.

It is important to know: It is worth noting that products made of PVC and polypropylene are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made from all these materials will last a very long time if used correctly.

Kinds

Typically, according to the method of operation, sewerage is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewerage according to the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenses and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually mixed gravity sewerage is installed.

Installation

An assistant is required for this work. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed in those areas where the system intersects the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And powerful insulation is done there using plumbing sealant.

The pipes are laid with some slope. These are SNiP requirements. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm/1 line. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by following this rule can a functioning internal sewage system be installed efficiently.

And a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is also unacceptable. In the first situation, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, and a blockage will form. In the second case, the flow of drainage in these pipes will gain too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

For your information: For work you will also need a soldering iron and a hammer drill.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. By starting this way, you will prevent these systems from becoming inconsistent. The outlet is installed through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to create one.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve proceeds with a slope of 2% for the external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must coincide with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is in the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating waste from the toilet will be short. The following trend applies here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can install it in boxes, in walls, or use the open method. For installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If your diagram contains a point where the outlets from the shower, bathtub and sink converge, then installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The inspection must be mounted on each riser. Each sewer turn must end with cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After which this pipe is led to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the exhaust pipe itself must differ in height.

Having installed the internal sewerage system, it must be thoroughly drained. clean water. This way the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer system is a network of pipes from the outlet block to the septic tank or treatment station. The pipes here are laid underground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay brightly colored pipes so that they are easier to notice in the depths. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total treatment stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chamber.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these residents.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Approximate water consumption. This refers to how much water each resident spends daily. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances are also important here.
5. Groundwater level in your area.
6. Parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for treatment equipment are calculated.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you should buy is also a matter of your budget. It also wouldn’t hurt to consult with experts.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in organizing external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and laying do not pose any particular difficulties.

As for the general scheme of external sewerage, it necessarily includes:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• waste discharge channels to the disposal point;
• settling tank (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Creating a trench. It connects house drains to a septic tank. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m of pipe in the direction of the cesspool.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
3. A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along an oval of cords. The cord is treated with solid oil.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials with the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use low quality pipes.
4. Do not clog your drains with heavy waste.
5. Design the sewer system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewerage during construction stages. This is the best option. If it was not followed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer system in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

The durability and uninterrupted functioning of the sewer system depends on the installation and quality of the materials used. It is not at all necessary to hire craftsmen for the work; you can make a durable structure yourself, if you take into account all the important points. If you decide to entrust the work to professionals, you will be able to control the process without any problems and thus avoid shortcomings and omissions.

The initial design of a house involves calculating the location for future wastewater treatment facilities. This indicator will make it possible to place them in the most compact way in the home, so that the plumbing equipment is located in one zone and connected to one collector.

Since the system’s main route runs inside the home and in the yard, two separate plans must be created.

To work you will need:

• graph paper;
• ruler;
• roulette;
• simple pencil.

Sequencing:

1. Drawing up a building project to scale, using known or measured parameters.
2. Determining the location of risers.
3. Conventional placement of plumbing fixtures, taking into account its size and methods of connection to openings.
4. Marking connecting pipes (tees, connections) and pipes going from fittings and sumps to plumbing fixtures and elements.
5. Installation of risers and vent pipes connecting sewer system with atmosphere.
6. Combining all sewer lines inside the building, counting their length and quantity.
7. Design of an external main, starting from the outlet pipe and ending with the well, its type and size.

When drawing up a sewerage project, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

• If the building is multi-story, separate markings are made for each floor.
• The parts of winding pipelines from the entire building can be combined through the basement or taken out in different parts of the building, and then connected at one underground point.
• For greater efficiency in the operation of hygienic zones, it is better to make all pipeline lines as short as possible.

Regardless of type treatment plant, pipes will be needed to install the entire system. But since internal and external markings are in different conditions, different materials must be used for them.

For the installation of internal sewerage systems are used gray pipes made of polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride with the following diameter (in mm):

• 100 - main riser and toilet outlet;
• 65-75 - vertical forks of the riser;
• 50 - general drainage of waste from the bathtub and sink;
• 45 - individual drainage from hygiene accessories;
• 32 - outlet from the kitchen and bidet.

For external lines, orange PVC or asbestos pipes are used, which are characterized by increased strength. They are tasked with withstanding loads while being under a layer of earth.

For sewerage in a private house, two types of pipes are used: plastic and cast iron.

Cast iron pipes

Durable, able to withstand heavy loads. However, over time, the insides are destroyed by corrosion and can become clogged. In addition, they are expensive, weighty and fragile.

Plastic pipes

They are divided into three subspecies based on composition. Choose the most suitable ones depending on the place of use and load.

Polypropylene (PP)

If everything is done according to technology, they have practically no disadvantages. Lightweight and flexible, therefore the most common. They can easily withstand high and low temperatures of sewer water.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Used for external sewerage pipelines. Affordable and lightweight. Their disadvantages: fragility, and also not resistant to high temperatures (they burst).

When choosing, pay attention to appearance products. High-quality building materials have smooth edges and joints without burrs. Quality can also be determined by the weight of the pipe: the heavier it is, the greater the thickness of the plastic and the composition of the material.

Polyethylene

Used for installation of the external part of the sewer system. They can be of any diameter, suitable for laying in the ground at a depth of up to 15 meters. Not heat resistant, may expand when exposed to temperature.

The entire sewer line is divided into two parts: internal and external, the arrangement of which must be dealt with separately. Part of the system inside the house consists of pipes running from the plumbing to the riser, which goes to the external outlet. The basic rule when laying it is to combine all the forks in such a way that the drainage of waste liquids is as smooth as possible. In order for the structure to serve for a long time and efficiently, you should not skimp on building materials.

Necessary components for sewerage:

• bends;
• tees (for branching);
• reducers or adapters (for assembling branches different sizes);
• plugs for sockets (to plug extra holes);
• fastenings for fixing bells;
• silicone in a tube for lubricating rubber seals - seals the connection and facilitates the joining of parts.

Sewerage in a private house - stages of laying pipelines

The sequence of laying sewer drain lines must be strictly followed.

1. Release. This is the boundary part of the system, which combines pipes coming out of the wall of the home and going to the storage tank. Installed first of all to prevent possible inconsistencies between planes on late stages and provide the required slope (2 cm by 1 m).

An opening is made in a wall or foundation. A retreat pipe with a sleeve is placed in it (a protective segment with a diameter of 110-130 mm; the length depends on the thickness of the wall: it is better to choose 10-20 mm longer than the thickness) and fixed with cement-sand mortar. The sleeve is predominantly metal.

1. Connecting plumbing fixtures with a water seal (will protect your home from unpleasant odors) and a snake-like tube.
2. Connecting the first socket to them.
3. Using a pair of angled (45 degree) knees to vertical pipe horizontal is connected.
4. If one or another accessory is located far from the riser, pipes to it are laid at an angle (3 cm by 1 m).
5. The gap of the required slope is adjusted by clamps that are attached to the wall or floor and support the markings in a suitable position. The gap between the clamps is maintained at approximately 2 meters.
6. If the drain branches are located above the floor level, then after each turn an inspection is installed (a part with a cover for removing blockages).
7. In multi-story buildings, the same bolts are installed on each riser.
8. The connection of pipes with diameters of 5 and 10 cm is made using a special adapter.

Important points when installing sewerage:

• To ensure that the pipe joints are compactly connected, they are treated with sealant, with the external ones lubricated from the inside, and the internal ones from the outside.
• Ventilation must be provided for the riser, so its height must correspond to the height of the building. The upper hole is brought out to the roof and covered twice with a grille larger diameter than itself. This background pin will not only serve as ventilation, it will support Atmosphere pressure and will extend the service life.
• The slope of a tube with a diameter of 5 cm should be - 3 cm per 1 m of length; and 10 cm is 2 cm per 1 m.

Before moving on to further stages of sewer construction in a private house, it is necessary to identify:

• number of residents;
• total volume of water used daily;
• depth of groundwater;
• area of ​​the site and place for installation of sewerage structures;
• soil type and its structure.

Then you need to navigate the types of waste containers.

Cumulative

Storage tanks include a sealed tank and a cesspool without a bottom.

Cesspool without bottom

Often used for arranging sewerage in a private house. It is a well paved with concrete or brick. Liquid waste that gets into the container seeps into the soil, and organic matter and feces settle.

Over time, they accumulate and are pumped out using special equipment. If the daily mass of waste exceeds one cubic meter, it is better to choose a different design.

Sealed container in the form of a tank

Making such a sewer system in a private house with your own hands is very simple:

1. A hole is dug in the ground.
2. Its bottom is concreted.
3. Concrete rings are laid on top of each other, pre-treated with cement or sealant.
4. It is covered with a metal lid, which has a hole for a corrugated tube.

The main thing is that the container is completely sealed. The volume of the tank depends on the average amount of water used per day, but its depth should not exceed 3 m, otherwise the hose will not reach the bottom (when cleaning). Suitable for areas where groundwater is in upper layers soil (5-10m deep).

Disadvantage: you will have to empty it often by hiring a special vehicle, so you need to provide access for transport.

Septic tanks

They are an underground sewage sump with one or several compartments through which wastewater passes and is mechanically and biological treatment. After this, they enter the filter drainage, where they are cleaned with a layer of crushed stone. Suitable for filter soils (sand, sandy loam) with a burial depth of at least 2 m.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house from monolithic concrete

1. A pit is dug corresponding to the size of the cement chamber.
2. The bottom is compacted and leveled.
3. A shock-absorbing cushion of sand, 30 cm thick, is made.
4. A mesh (20*20 cm) of reinforcement (10 mm in diameter) is laid.
5. A 3-centimeter ball of concrete (grade B15) is poured on top.
6. Aged for 14 days until completely hardened.
7. Filling the walls. The thickness of the walls is 20 cm, and the internal partitions are 15.
8. After drying, the floors are built. Installed wooden formwork with supports and a mesh of metal rods (12 mm).
9. Sloping filtration fields (drainage) made of crushed stone and gravel are equipped, into which processed liquid will flow by gravity for post-treatment.

Regardless of which concrete structure you choose for the sewer system (ring or monolithic), it is advisable to treat it from the inside for waterproofing. For coating, waterproofing is used, for example LAKHTA or Penetron. Heated resin is also used, but it peels off over time and does not saturate the walls of the structure.

Bottom line

The question of how to make a sewer system in a private house is very relevant, but does not present any particular difficulties. Installing and equipping a drainage structure is actually easy - follow our instructions and you will succeed.

The information from this article will be useful not only for doing all the work yourself. With its help, you can find out what a modern sewer system is for a private home, how to properly purchase components and design routes. This knowledge will help to competently monitor the actions of the construction team, prevent errors, and make adjustments to the design documentation.

Read in the article:

Basic definitions

It is immediately necessary to clarify the purpose of the project. We will leave the issues of storm (5) and drainage (4) sewerage outside the scope of the article. The effluent in these systems is not too dirty, so there are no significant problems with its disposal.

It is more difficult to resolve issues with household waste. They are discussed below. The figure shows the internal (1) and external (2) parts of the autonomous sewage system for a private house. This example shows a septic tank (3) with a drainage field, but in practice other solutions are used. For selection optimal option You should familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

1. must remove domestic wastewater with sufficient capacity.
2. It will be useful to avoid unnecessary difficulties in the process of their disposal.
3. The absence of blockages and complex regulatory procedures will simplify operation.
4. The durability of system components will increase the intervals between major overhauls.

For your information! To make a correct assessment, consider all important factors together. The cost of purchasing individual components is supplemented with data on service life, maintenance, and other mandatory expenses during use.

Operating principle, sewerage system in a private house

Domestic systems use a gravity drain system. Drains move under the influence of gravity, so a sufficient slope is needed on all horizontal sections of the sewer system in a private house.

Sinks, showers, and other plumbing fixtures are connected through (5, 8). These simple devices create a hydraulic seal that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer. The fan pipe (7) is needed not only for... It prevents vacuum in the upper part of the riser during a volley discharge of wastewater that blocks the working opening.

If the external part of the system is properly equipped, the liquid will be purified to a safe level.

Where to place the sewer system on the site

For your information! When choosing suitable place to place a cesspool, it is placed 15 m or more from the foundation of a private house. The distance can be reduced to three meters if you install a modern biological treatment station.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the structure, operating principle, location requirements, secrets of independently installing cleaning facilities for a private home, as well as advice and recommendations from specialists.

The distance to the well is increased (30-50 m). In a relief area, a low-lying area is chosen for installing a septic tank, away from residential premises. To avoid problems, the distance to the boundaries of the neighboring property should be more than three meters.

Functional sewerage for a private home: how to make the calculation correctly

When constructing housing, an autonomous sewage system is designed together with architectural components and other engineering structures. For accurate calculations, specialized specialists take data on the drainage of individual points (plumbing, other equipment). They calculate the percentage of filling of the working channel, the speed of fluid movement, the slope and diameter of the pipes in different areas.

The following information will help you draw the right conclusions yourself:

1. At the stage of preparing a general construction project, install connection points for devices and equipment as close as possible to the riser.
2. In multi-storey buildings, bathrooms are installed one above the other.
3. To prevent blockages, route turns are made at angles less than 90°. An exception is the vertical sections of the sewer system of a private house.
4. Special couplings are used for a smooth transition between different diameters.
5. At turns and long sections, an element with a removable side cover (“inspection”) is installed to simplify inspection and remove blockages.

To lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, you can use the following standard sizes:

Expert opinion

VK design engineer (water supply and sewerage) LLC "ASP North-West"

Ask a specialist

“The distance to the riser should not be increased by more than 5 m. Specialists recommend installing the toilet no further than 1.5-2 m. If these rules are violated, the height difference for draining by gravity will increase significantly.”

As the distance to the vertical section of the fan pipe increases, it may not be enough to compensate for the vacuum. To solve the problem, special valves are installed in the right places in the sewer system for a private home. They allow air from the room to pass through, but prevent the penetration of odors from the drainage system without a hydraulic seal.

Current building regulations establish a maximum height difference. For a horizontal sewer section for a private house 100 cm long, it should not exceed 15 cm. Otherwise, the liquid flow moves too quickly and does not have time to wash away contaminants.

This table shows optimal values For different diameters drainage systems while maintaining normal tilt angles:

Selecting components for a sewer drain system in a private house

To ensure good compatibility of all components of the route, it is recommended to use products from the same manufacturer. As a rule, specialized companies offer a varied catalog of PVC sewer pipes. It is not difficult to clarify the sizes and prices of current offers using the Internet. Such products have significant advantages compared to analogues:

1. Reasonable cost implies low costs even when equipping large properties.
2. Low weight simplifies transportation and work operations. Plastic systems Sewage systems for the dacha do not create unnecessary load. Therefore, strengthening the power frame of the building will not be required.
3. The standard connection system (with socket and integrated sealing ring) speeds up installation work.
4. Such pipes are not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion and aggressive detergent components.

Polyvinyl chloride is most often used to create sewer systems for a private home. This material is used to create durable pipes, which in a multilayer design can be installed at a depth of up to 8 meters (SN8 modifications). They maintain integrity over a wide temperature range (from -10°C to +65°C).

Pipelines made of polyethylene are more plastic, designed for low temperatures, but they can be damaged by UV radiation. They are intended only for transporting cold water. Pipes made of polypropylene are 2-3 times more expensive than pipes made of PVC. They are able to withstand short-term movement of liquid heated to +95°C. But it is unlikely that such properties will be needed at a great distance from plumbing fixtures.

Non-pressure gravity sewerage for a private home is not subject to heavy loads from the inside. But even in this case, to maintain the integrity of the structure, you should choose PVC pipes gray in color with a wall thickness of at least 1.8 mm. For outdoor work, more durable products are purchased. To make identification easier, they are specially painted orange.

When designing the external sewer route of a private house, you can use the following verification data. They determine the permissible wall thickness for pipes with a diameter of 200 m:

For your information! The connection between the home and external parts of the sewer system of a private house can be made using corrugation to prevent disruption of the integrity of the system due to soil movements. Select elements corresponding in diameter (double-layer) with smooth inner walls.

In multi-layer structures, ribs increase rigidity. The inner part is made smooth for the smooth passage of drains.

Carrying out installation work without errors: connecting pipes, correct slope and other nuances

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house (connect individual parts into a single system) is described in the following description:

• After marking the dimensions from the plan, cut the pipe at an angle of 90°. To accurately perform this operation, use the following device (1). Use a hacksaw with a metal blade, or a special tool.
• Using a file (2), chamfer the end part at an angle of 15° and remove small defects at the cut site. Remove burrs with a knife.
• For easier connection small area(3) coated with a special lubricant ( soap solution). Do not use silicone sealant. It blocks the mobility of the connection, which must be preserved in this node.
• A rubber ring (4) is inserted into the recess. As a rule, such products are supplied assembled with a sealing element.
• At the next stage, insert one part into the other until it stops. The corresponding position is marked (5) with a visible marker color.
• Next, the parts of the structure (6) are moved apart by approximately 1 cm.

This technology ensures reliable fastening and tightness of the connection. The created gap will prevent deformation of the route during thermal expansion of plastic pipes during the operation of the sewer system for a private home.

A working drawing can be created manually, without necessarily observing the scale and exact drawings of individual products. But when drawing up a package of design documentation for the sewer system of a private house, the following facts must be taken into account:

1. A sufficient slope is maintained in all areas, the permissible maximum distance to the riser.
2. The route is laid without right angles, without creating any obstacles to the drainage.
3. Do not forget about installing revisions in difficult places and on long sections.

A similar drawing can be used as a basis for preparing a list necessary components sewerage parts for a private house.

Related article:

In this material we will look in detail at how its devices are mounted, we will also study it, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

If the sewer pipes of a private house are installed in concrete screed, is provided reliable protection from external influences, but repair is difficult. The route can be installed in wall panels, inside the floor frame structure. In these cases, access is easier, but the noise level increases. To create comfort and at the same time maintain the integrity of the walls, the risers are secured through damping gaskets. In some situations, it is necessary to install special insulation that blocks the sounds of the drain. The corresponding layers are made of polyurethane foam and other moisture-resistant materials.

Official instructions indicate the specifics of using their products. The following pictures show examples with manufacturer's explanations:

External part of an autonomous sewage system for a summer residence

For year-round living, you need a continuously functioning sewer system for a country house. The owner himself will decide what to choose for insulating individual areas. But this design must be strong enough and resistant to moisture.

An attentive person will notice that the picture shows an exit from the house located above the ground. However, many houses are made with a basement (basement). In such buildings it is easy to make a route below the soil freezing level for a certain region.

But don't rush to conclusions. It is necessary to take into account the gradual slope and distance of placement of treatment facilities for a private home. It is possible that you will have to install them at too great a depth. Additional protection against groundwater penetration will be required. The cost of supplying fluid to the drainage field will increase.

After determining the depth, the passage of the route through the area is checked. Protective materials are installed under driveways, parking lots, and other additional loads. reinforced concrete slabs, or other designs. The pipes are laid on a bed of sand, cleared of stones and other large fractions. The individual parts of the structure are assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. The necessary sections of the sewer system for a private house are insulated.

As well as inside buildings, sharp turns are not used here to prevent the movement of wastewater. Inspection wells are installed on long sections of sewerage for a private house. Connections with such elements and septic tanks are made movable. This will prevent damage due to soil displacement during use.

Cesspool: low cost and big problems

How to choose an autonomous sewer system in a private house will become clear after studying all the options. You should start with traditional designs, well proven by centuries of operation.

The authenticity of the origin of the last photograph is questionable. However, such structures were actually used many centuries ago. Today they continue to fulfill their functional purpose.

However, the use of such sewerage projects for a private house is contrary to the norms of modern legislation. Oddly enough, it is much easier to comply with SanPin requirements using a classic “dream house” located at a sufficient distance from the main building and other objects. Its depth is limited to 3 meters. This parameter is adjusted taking into account the actual groundwater level. Designs without a bottom are allowed to be used with a total amount of drainage of no more than 1 cubic meter. within 24 hours.

Acceptable minimum distance to the well is determined by the geological characteristics of the site:

• clay – 20 m;
• loams – 30 m;
• sand – 50 m.

For your information! When carefully studying the issue, it is necessary to take into account the distances to the corresponding objects in neighboring areas.

If you want to comply with SanPin standards without extra costs, use this drawing of an autonomous structure (toilet with cesspool) as a basis

Closed tank: a simple solution, operating features

The figure shows important details:

• Hatch (1) for inspection and removal of accumulated waste.
• A high neck (2), which makes it possible to install the main part below the soil freezing level.
• Large ribs (3) enhancing the rigidity of the structure.
• Pipe for removing explosive gases (4). According to current building regulations, its height above the ground is less than 60 cm. The hole must have a diameter of 10 cm or more.

The volume of sewerage capacity for a private home is selected taking into account real needs. The main disadvantage is the fairly frequent calls for a sewer truck. The depth is not made more than 2.5-3 m, so as not to complicate the removal of household waste using the standard length of hoses and the power of pumping equipment.

It is not difficult to figure out how to make a sewer system in a private house (storage tank) from brick and reinforced concrete rings.

Metal tanks are rarely used due to their low resistance to corrosion processes.

Septic tanks: review of technical solutions with professional recommendations

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house will be easier to decide after a detailed acquaintance with the basics of the technology. Through the transport system, wastewater enters the first tank. Here large heavy fractions settle to the bottom and the processes of biological decomposition begin.

Through a special pipe, the partially purified liquid enters the second tank. Similar processes occur here, but with a noticeably smaller amount of mechanical impurities.

At the third stage, the smallest impurities are retained by a layer of granular backfill. The last container has no bottom. The liquid penetrates the soil and is further purified naturally. At correct setting All components of the system prevent environmental pollution.

For your information! A clear advantage of the technology is the reduction in calls to the services of vacuum cleaners.

The number of processing stages determines the degree of sewerage cleaning for a private home. Therefore, for full reproduction, it is recommended to use at least two containers.

A closed third tank is installed here. After this, the liquid is discharged onto a special aeration field. This part is formed from drainage (perforated) pipes. They are laid in rows with an interval of 40-60 cm on a bed of crushed stone. Ventilation shafts are installed at all ends. Such facilities provide effective cleaning without the use of additional biological and technical means.

In this sewerage option for a private house, you will need an appropriate free area on the land plot to accommodate the drainage field. When the groundwater level is high, it has to be raised onto artificial embankments. Here you will have to install additional pumping equipment and control automation. Exact costs can be calculated taking into account the terrain, number of users, and other features.

To simplify the sewerage project for a private home, purchase ready-made kits equipment. Manufacturers offer ready-made solutions in a wide range, designed for different conditions and needs.

How to prevent environmental pollution using an artificial treatment plant

Automated sewage treatment plants for a private home. The price of such kits is the highest in the corresponding equipment category. However, the significant initial investment is offset by several advantages:

• relatively small in size;
• high-quality wastewater treatment;
• minimal hassle during operation.

In this model, the separation of contaminants is improved using a powerful aeration unit. Active air saturation of a sewerage cleaning system for a private home accelerates not only biological, but also chemical reactions. Dissolved salts, iron and other impurities are converted into solid sediment. A well-purified liquid comes out.

When you contact specialists, the sewage system of a private house will be calculated professionally. A specialized company will carry out delivery, installation and commissioning work, and issue official warranty obligations. Comparing costs independent execution similar actions, it is necessary to take into account the cost of auxiliary procedures, the purchase of tools and consumables.

The information provided will simplify the formulation of requirements for individual project. They will help you implement it without errors and unnecessary costs. Clarify the sewerage parameters for a private home using the comments to the article. Communicate with experienced craftsmen, express your own opinion about products from different manufacturers. On this specialized information platform, valuable knowledge can be obtained completely free of charge.

Video, professional installation of plastic sewer pipes