Assembling furniture with your own hands - rules, recommendations, instructions and tips on how to assemble cabinet furniture. Making your own furniture from chipboard, detailed instructions How to assemble furniture from chipboard

FURNITURE ASSEMBLY

Nuances that neither an amateur nor a professional assembler will tell you about

If you bought new furniture and do not intend to assemble it yourself (for whatever reason), you will need furniture assembly services. From this article you will learn how these services differ from each other, and you will be able to understand whether you need our help.

WARNING

I must warn you right away that this is a serious matter. It's not about little things that aren't worth paying attention to. Build quality is at stake and appearance your furniture, which will probably serve you for many years. I think you will agree that it should be beautiful, strong, reliable, and this is IMPORTANT.

Therefore, it is equally important to clearly understand in advance WHO will assemble your furniture. Because collectors are different, but you would like to remember them kind words, not curse words. It is this difference that I will talk about. So this is not a stupid piece of text for the sake of search engine optimization, but a useful article that will help you avoid disappointments and surprises when assembling furniture.

EXPERIENCE OF A FRIEND

A friend of mine bought a new kitchen and had it assembled by someone who seemed like a specialist. She did not control the process, because the apartment was being renovated, and the installer came there himself. When she decided to look at (as she thought) already ready-made kitchen, it turned out that the assembler assembled only a few cabinets in a few days. Although everything could be done in 1 day! And when he finally finished the work, he hung the doors of the wall cabinets without looking, although there was a general design on the front side. I had to call him again to rearrange the doors, and my friend spent a lot of her time on this.

VARIETIES OF FURNITURE ASSEMBERS

Let's move on to specifics. When you choose who to entrust the assembly of your furniture, keep in mind that there are three types of assemblers, and if you live in the vicinity of Yaroslavl - four types (because it is in this region that we work). So, the types of collectors:

amateurs

shabby people

professionals

Belikov brothers

Now let's talk about everything in order.

AMATEURS

Amateurs are novice assemblers who want to make money assembling furniture and were able to convince you that they are experts. At the same time, they either have no experience and the necessary skills at all, or, due to their intellectual organization, are not able to learn from their mistakes and improve their skills.

They will unpack your furniture and spend a long time studying the instructions and figuring it out. Then they start assembling and in the middle they realize that they have mixed up the parts. They will redo it. When it's almost done, you'll find that you forgot something you should have done in the first place (like attaching drawer slides). You will either have to take everything apart again, or do it with great inconvenience. As a rule, amateurs have a minimum of tools, which also significantly slows down the assembly process. As a result, you will lose a lot of time; it is not very pleasant to watch such work, especially if you do not trust the assemblers 100% and are worried about your furniture.

How do I know? Because we ourselves went through this. We were new, we made mistakes and did it over. This is a passed stage, and we are not ashamed of it, because we have always worked conscientiously, and our clients were satisfied even then. But we are rather an exception, and in general, when you turn to amateurs, you run a big risk, because they can simply break something.

It’s easy to identify amateurs: ask what experience they have, how much furniture they’ve already assembled, ask for photographs of completed work. Find out what set of tools they use. Pay attention to how the interlocutor answers: quickly and clearly or uncertainly, with pauses. This way you can distinguish a beginner from an experienced person.

SHABASHNIKI

Shabashniks are assemblers who already have some experience and a set of tools. As a rule, these people are quite direct, assertive and even rude. They do not stand on ceremony with clients, they do not care about other people's concerns. They also don't worry about quality. Perhaps you sense a negative emotional connotation in the word “shabashniks”. That’s right, this is not a very respected category of workers.

They simply assemble your furniture, making small mistakes from time to time, which they do not pay attention to. Sacrificing quality, they do everything quite quickly and work cheaply. In general, their main advantage is their low price. Actually, this is the only thing they can offer, so they always call low price and are ready to bargain. But don’t be surprised if during the process or at the end of the work they tell you a completely different amount.

It’s not a shame for the covens to change the terms of the contract retroactively, and they will try to increase their value when you have nowhere to go. This is where their assertive and rude communication style comes in handy. However, if you don’t give in, you won’t have to pay too much. Like this. You will still have to defend the already agreed upon price.

Shabashnikov can be seen in their conversation; they communicate confidently and not too attentively. They are not interested in your problems and experiences, only the matter at hand, and even then without details. Sometimes this "no detail" thing results in them missing a tool or another problem that causes the job to take longer.

PROFESSIONALS

Professionals are people who earn money by assembling furniture, have extensive experience and position themselves as experts. They have already assembled so much furniture that they often don’t even look at the instructions. At the same time, professionals can be either polite and pleasant young people or serious, withdrawn men. They have all the necessary tools.

The main value of professionals is speed. They have no emotions about their work. It is important for them to pack up your furniture as quickly as possible and leave - either for the next order or for a vacation. On the one hand, this is an advantage because you will spend a minimum of your time. On the other hand, professionals often go too far in their quest to save time. They save seconds where it is already unnecessary. For example, they tighten Euroscrews with a screwdriver without adjusting the force. As a result, they drive screws into the chipboard until the middle of the board, so that the decorative coating in the hole area cracks and breaks off, and the strength of the joint is reduced by half.

This is ugly and, in our opinion, unprofessional. Instead of saving this half a second, it is wiser to adjust the screwdriver for tightening or tighten all the screws with a wrench manually. This will take an extra minute, but the furniture will look beautiful and, if necessary, will survive several more disassemblies and reassemblies and more than one move.

I would like to believe that I am wrong, but the experience of communicating with professional assemblers convinces me every time that haste is a common problem among professionals. They are too accustomed to their work, for them it is a routine, they simply do not bother (it is especially sad when such assemblers work for hire, for example, in a furniture store, because in this case they still do not feel personal responsibility for their work). But the prices for their services can vary significantly from very loyal to unreasonably inflated.

BELIKOV BROTHERS

Let me make a reservation right away: don’t be misled by the fact that I put ourselves as the fourth point. This doesn't mean we better than professionals. More precisely, it is YOU who decides who is best for you.

The Belikov brothers are my brother and I, Ivan and Dmitry. We have been assembling furniture for a long time, but not very often. We have great experience and a lot of tools, but we always carefully study the instructions. We still have room to grow; we can be considered emerging professionals.

And this is our main advantage. We haven't gotten bored with work yet. We didn't lose our emotions. We assemble furniture as if it were our own, and the relationship with each client is important to us. We take into account your wishes and concerns and do our best to make you feel comfortable and calm. We take our time during assembly and do everything as carefully as possible. We put quality first - and pay for it with our time. And guess what? We can afford to spend a few extra minutes to ensure that your furniture is assembled beautifully and neatly!

FOR EXAMPLE

When we assembled this wall, we had to tinker with installing a pneumatic lift for the door that opens up. There were no markings, and the instructions allowed for too much error. Moreover, there are two elevators, and they must be installed symmetrically. I spent almost 15 minutes measuring and double-checking everything. Then another 2 minutes to install the elevators - and they are perfect.

Another example: we are assembling a cabinet and see that the shelf protrudes slightly beyond the side wall, and raw material is visible from the side chipboard edge half a millimeter wide. This is because Euroscrews allow the parts to move slightly relative to each other. We can leave it like that, but we loosen the screws, place the shelf nicely and tighten the screws back.

You don't have to pay extra for such important, time-consuming little things. You don't need to worry about them. This is how we always work. That is why our work costs more than the work of covens. By contacting us, you will receive high quality work, taking into account your wishes and friendly communication. But you will have to allow a little more time if you want to be personally present during the assembly, because we will not rush. We assembled the wall in the first photo in 5.5 hours.

ASSUMPTION

Despite extensive personal experience and communication with a large number of furniture assemblers, I must admit that I may be wrong. It is possible that both polite shabatniks and not too hasty professionals work in Yaroslavl. If so, that's great. I’m writing about my personal experience in a particular region, even if you don’t like it too much. But honestly and without embellishment.

LET'S SUM UP

Working with amateurs can be very cheap, but it takes a long time and is very risky. Shabashniks will also offer a low price, but they may try to increase it during the assembly process. In addition, some of them are careless. Remember the story of how a friend of mine waited almost a week to have her kitchen assembled, which was assembled in a day? The question is, is this loss of time worth the amount you will save? You don't pay for quality here - don't expect it.

Professionals work clearly, quickly and quite accurately, but are often in too much of a hurry. As a result, your furniture does not look 100% and could be stronger, but it is assembled quickly. However, this is not a death sentence either; you may meet excellent pickers. The price depends greatly on the company or employees. How to choose? Chat with the collector, ask your questions, evaluate his answers and disposition. It’s good if someone can recommend you a trusted specialist. Most The best way- observe (if possible) how the person works.

Now you can imagine how furniture assembly services differ and why different people different prices. You can also decide what services you want to order for yourself and why.

ASSEMBLY OF FURNITURE FROM BELIKOV BROTHERS

If you want to contact us, we will be happy to help. We work in Yaroslavl, if necessary, we can travel to the region or another city. Our experience is more than three years, we have a customer with a network of their own furniture stores, whose furniture we regularly assemble. And also many clients for whom we have assembled furniture from small bedside tables to complete room furnishings.

You can see some of the furniture we have collected in the section, and read customer reviews in the section

1. Main material: laminated chipboard

Surprisingly, wood in pure form is the lot of expensive “elite” furniture. Wood is practically no longer found in cabinet furniture.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard(LDSP). Typically these are 16 mm thick slabs. Chipboard sheets with a thickness of 10 mm and 22 mm are also available for sale. 10 mm laminated chipboards are used as filling for blind doors of sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm - for shelves in bookcases, where greater resistance to loads is required, and ordinary 16 mm laminated chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also, sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements of furniture products, introducing originality into the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet lid you can put a protruding cover 22 mm thick more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only in mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of laminated chipboard for cutting. Typically, all parts of cabinet furniture (except for doors and facades) are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard.

Laminated chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home you can saw off something with a jigsaw - but in this case the edges of the seam will be “torn”, and the seam itself will probably wiggle from side to side. Achieve straight saw It's almost impossible with a jigsaw.

2. Edges

The cut of laminated chipboard is the most ugliest and vulnerable place - moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all ends of laminated chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:

. ABS edge- an analogue of PVC edges made of another, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, the remaining differences are rather invented by marketers. It's not even sold in our city.

. Wooden and veneered facades- will delight lovers of natural products. True, in the modern plastic world such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name for the wood. At the very least, manufacturing companies strongly recommend regularly maintaining such facades with special chemicals.

. Enamel facades- painted facades. Their main drawback: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and is not resistant to chemicals. Previously, they were used only for their saturated bright colors. With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has decreased significantly.

. Aluminum and glass facades- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fasteners, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of drawers.

Typically, the back walls of furniture, as well as the bottoms of drawers, are made of LDVP. At the same time, its front laminated side looks inside the drawer or cabinet. The color of HDF is selected to match the color of the HDF used. The sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time it was fashionable to place such a wall on brackets using furniture stapler. This is wrong - the staples last for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure may seem to you immediately after assembly, after a few years it may well break apart under pressure or deformation. It is especially incorrect to place the bottom of drawers on staples, which is constantly subject to pull-out loads. So forget about the furniture stapler - it is only suitable for upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted in the groove- but this technology requires milling this groove, and at the same time maintaining all dimensions of the product exactly down to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and bottoms of drawers are made of chipboard. This is practiced to create " stiffening ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very large load (20 kg and above). The rear wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffeners made of laminated chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with LDVP.

5. Countertops

Tabletop- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (cook, eat, write).

Most office desks and cheap dining options are limited to a top made of the same material as the desk itself. This can be laminated chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, always edged with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for kitchens. Usually they are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, covered with plastic using postforming technology. This plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the tabletop is gray, it’s ordinary chipboard, if it’s blue-green, then moisture resistant. Proper kitchen worktops are equipped with a strip of silicone - the so-called " drip tray", which does not allow spilled liquids to flow down and onto the kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such countertops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine to match the color of the tabletop when cutting it. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after just a year of use. Therefore, for the ends of the tabletop it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile, having previously thoroughly coated the cut surface silicone sealant. There is also a profile for joining tabletops at right angles - without sawing them and fitting them to each other - this profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the smooth surface of the table and then dirt gets clogged in them), so such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside screws to horizontal struts. In this case, the screws should not be too long so as not to pierce the lid through.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone . Products from natural stone very heavy and require additional care due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is free of these disadvantages. In addition, artificial stone countertops can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So, first let's talk about the relative position of the parts.

Detail- this is any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, lid, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.

Let's consider this thesis using the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (on legs), and the other will hang on the wall.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor-standing cabinet it is directed from the lid down) naturally transmitted through wooden parts to the place of contact of the product with the support - on the legs of the cabinet (see the “correct” diagram).

In the second, “wrong” option, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is a special furniture screw, we’ll talk about them a little later) - and the force will constantly try to break it out of the wood.

Second example: wall cabinet.

Here everything is the other way around: the force is applied to the bottom shelf and the things on it, and the fastening point of the cabinet is higher than the point of application of the force. In a natural way (by joining wood boards) we will not transfer the force upward in any way. Therefore, voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make the same design here as in the floor cabinet (see the “wrong” diagram), all four confirmations will experience constant force to tear out made of wood. Therefore, we choose the worst of two evils: it is better to let the confirmees experience the effort for a break(see diagram "correctly").

At first glance, this seems difficult, but trust my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will begin to intuitively, without thinking, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which are used to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90°. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's briefly go through those with which we will have the opportunity to work.

. Euroscrew (confirmed)- special furniture screw. The most common fastening of cabinet furniture. Confirmat is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise addition of parts - you can drill a hole for it “on site”, during the process of assembling the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirmats. Due to their ideal shape for 16mm laminated chipboards, they have a significantly larger thread area and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.

To drill holes for confirmations it is required special drill- find this in our provincial town it wasn't easy. In principle, if you don’t have such a drill, it’s not a big deal: you can get by with three drills different diameters: under the thread, neck and cap of the confirmat.

Confirmats come in several sizes. Typically 7x50 is used. When drilling for confirmation, special attention should be paid to the perpendicularity of the drilling - so that the drill does not “run away” and pierce the wall of the part being drilled.

Confirmations are being twisted screwdriver with hexagonal bit or manually with a special hex wrench. Confirmations made with a Phillips screwdriver are not correct confirmations! You will never be able to tighten these screws all the way.

The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is that the caps, although remaining flush, are still noticeable. To hide them they use plastic plugs, inserted into the caps. The color of the plugs is matched to the color of the chipboard.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct and modern look furniture fasteners. Does not leave marks on the front side of the product, only on the inside. The main disadvantage is that it requires very precise drilling, including aligning the holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

To drill additives for eccentrics, a special drill is usually used. Forstner drill. It is possible to do it manually - but it is very difficult; it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you are assembling furniture, the ends of which will not be on public display, but will be hidden (for example, kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche) - then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings

The hinges can also be adjusted in height and planting depth. This allows you to more accurately align your cabinet door. Still meeting inset hinges- when, when closing the door, the facade is recessed into the cabinet (rarely used). Exists whole line hinges for glass doors, in which the glass can be firmly clamped without drilling.

Buy only high-quality products from well-known manufacturers (for inexpensive ones, we recommend Chinese Boyard) - so as not to have problems with them in the future. Among the world's serious manufacturers - Austrian Bloom, but it is expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Drawers and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest one is to make the perimeter of the box (sides, front and back walls) from chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I disagree with the author is that instead of nails to secure the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If a beautiful façade is required, then it is screwed with self-tapping screws to one of the sides of the drawer into the lining, as shown in the diagram in Section 5 (the role of the countertop in this case will be played by the drawer façade).

But assembling the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides There are two types: roller and ball.

. Roller guides - usually white, attached to the bottom of the drawer. A box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit tends to fall out of the guides from any sharp push. Such guides are bad because a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is extended more than halfway. The only advantage of such guides is the price: approx. 30 rub for a couple.

. Ball guides - or as they are usually called “full extension guides”. These guides are a telescopic structure that can increase its length exactly twice. Inside they contain several dozen balls (as in bearings), which ensures smooth movement of the box. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which eliminates the possibility of tipping over and prevents the drawer from “going off the rails” regardless of the load and speed of jerking.

The process of installing a drawer on full extension ball slides is well described. The price of such guides is approx. 100 rub per set. It’s very disappointing to see when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 rubles, the manufacturer squeezes and installs roller guides, saving 70 rubles. You know, you want to take it and strangle it for such a disgusting attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately specify what type of drawer guides will be.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian company Bloom. The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach guides to the drawer, and to sell ready-made side walls, with built-in guides, holes for the front and grooves for back wall. Having bought a metabox, all you have to do is hang a facade on it, put in a back wall and a bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for a bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

The guides in the metaboxes are roller. Accordingly, the metabox is not a full extension product. Cost of Blum metabox: from 300 before 500 rub. Now many companies, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name “metabox”, which has already become a household name. Here - good article on calculation and assembly of the metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution from the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandemboxes are usually equipped with an automatic closer and shock damper (BluMotion system) - which ensures surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the box (always full closing) with one push.

For tall boxes, tandem boxes can be equipped with one or two additional stops. Tandem boxes are made in white and stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be on furniture exhibition, stop by the Blum stand. You can’t even imagine how pleasant and high-quality ordinary furniture fittings can be. But the tandembox costs accordingly: 1000-2000 rub. per set.

10. Doors for sliding wardrobes

The last thing worth talking about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes. In general, the kitchen and wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas of activity for a novice furniture maker. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Furniture for the living room and bedrooms usually requires a serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult to process materials: natural wood, tempered glass. With kitchens and wardrobes, everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. last option It is simply a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off with sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you want: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and photographs of the most common elements filling sliding wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in a sliding wardrobe is its sliding doors. You can’t skimp here, and you need to buy only high-quality fittings - otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors so much that you yourself won’t be happy. In our city, the only decent ones they sell are sliding systems from a domestic company Aristo, however, according to reviews they are quite worthy.

A sliding wardrobe usually contains two or three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile. In this case, the door does not have to be uniform - it can be created from two or more different panels, connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a leaf thickness of 10 mm. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm laminated chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative. rattan(decorative wicker), bamboo, and even artificial leather (on a base made of chipboard or MDF).

Using special silicone seals, a 4-mm mirror. The main thing is that those who will cut your mirrors for the cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its back side, which will hold the fragments in the event of an impact. Even if a child breaks the mirror surface, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury.

In order for the doors to move, guides are attached to the bottom and top. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe ensure the opening/closing of the door, the upper ones ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.

For more information on self-production cabinet furniture, I strongly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource dedicated to this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of Craftsmen, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- DIY furniture. There are many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not just cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture directory. A beginner portal, but it already contains interesting articles.

Well, that’s the end of our little furniture educational program. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in choosing colors, edges, fittings and figured cuts- and you will get the opportunity to make the furniture that exactly what you need.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better quality than in the store. And it’s not that you no longer limit yourself to factory models. The fact is that the things you have made, the things in which you have invested your soul, your enthusiasm and skill, are stored the warmth of your hands. I think this is important.

For a long time, chipboard (chipboard) has been used as the basis for furniture. For those who have minimal skills in working with wood and carpentry tools, homemade furniture will provide an opportunity to save significantly family budget. Do-it-yourself furniture made from chipboard will be exclusive and will take its rightful place in your apartment. Everything you need for work can be found in specialized stores.

To repair or assemble chipboard furniture yourself, you need a small set of materials and tools. Everything you need can be found at home, or bought for a small price.

For work you will need the following tools:

Small drill or screwdriver. Of course, it is better to use a small and not heavy drill to assemble furniture;
Circular saw, router, jigsaw. If you don’t have these tools, you can rent them;
Level, square, tape measure;
Set of hex keys, countersinks, drills;
Conductor.

The materials you will need are:

Chipboards;
Wax of the desired color;
A felt-tip pen for retouching or a marker of the desired shades;
Wax melter;
Felt fabric;
Staple.

With such a small set, you can both update furniture and make new ones.

Manufacturing process

Chipboard cutting is carried out independently or by turning to professionals who have the necessary equipment. In addition to chipboard, when making furniture you will need fiberboard ( fibreboard), lumber from natural wood, fittings, fasteners.

It is quite possible for anyone to carry out a simple update, a master class of which is offered by experienced specialists. The result will be a beautiful, completely new product, and the family budget will not suffer. The most important design details that need to be given the most attention and time are:

Facades - the front part of the furniture and its doors - are made of a more attractive material. DIY furniture made from chipboard should look attractive. The facade is a separate part of the furniture; it is usually made to order. There are many different types of furniture fronts, they vary in the material used and design;
The bottom and side walls of the drawers - these furniture elements, like some other parts, are easiest to make from fiberboard. Some craftsmen prefer to fasten fiberboard with a furniture stapler, but this is wrong. After some time, the staples will become loose, and then the entire structure may become warped. It is best to fasten fiberboard with self-tapping screws or nails; it is good to install self-tapping screws with special washers;
A tabletop is a horizontal surface where you can write and read. Most tables made at home (photos below) are made from the same chipboard. The weakest area of the countertops is the cutting of the surface. They are most often protected with a melamine edge, for this reason they begin to break in the first year. To prevent this nuisance, the edges are covered with aluminum profiles. The tabletops are fastened from below using small self-tapping screws so as not to damage the front surface.

Choosing the right fasteners and fittings is no less important than quality materials. Furniture fasteners are products necessary for connecting individual parts. Basically, all elements are connected at right angles.

Dowels - their installation schemes imply the use of pre-prepared holes. They are used for preliminary fastening and increasing the strength of the connection;
Furniture corners are a common, but already outdated type of fastening. They don’t look very nice, they become loose after a while;
Euroscrew – screws for connecting parts of furniture.

The holes are made directly on site, using a special drill capable of drilling a groove of the required diameter. The question of how to make furniture with your own hands requires control of the perpendicularity of the drilling direction, so as not to spoil the furniture element. When connecting elements, you need to take into account the subtleties:

Furniture screws are screwed in using a hex key. Heads designed for a Phillips screwdriver cannot be completely screwed in;
The main disadvantage of this mount is that fully screwed heads remain visible. To hide them, the holes are covered with plastic plugs of a suitable color;
Eccentric ties – convenient, modern method fastenings It allows you to make a hole on the inside of a piece of furniture.

To make holes the right size, use a Forstner drill. It is not rational to buy it only for assembling hidden elements, but they are convenient for installing doors. Even a novice craftsman should have no problems with how to repaint furniture at home, and step-by-step recommendations will help you assemble new products.

Tabletop

Bookshelf

Every person who loves books is faced with the need to store a library. Easiest to purchase ready-made wardrobe, but you can save a lot of money and make or restore furniture from chipboard yourself. Easiest to do classic version A cabinet with open shelves that can easily fit in any room. The ideal depth for this furniture is 400 mm, overall dimensions are 2000x800x400. (height width depth). Most books will easily fit on such shelves.

You need to start work by drawing up a drawing, separately depicting all the details. Then transfer the parts to chipboard. Next come cutting and other stages:

Assembly must be done on a flat surface so as not to distort the structure;
We connect the top of the cabinet and the side walls. You need to use a special square to ensure that the corners are even;
All elements are connected using fasteners;
Having installed the top of the cabinet, fasten the bottom, checking the correct connection with a square;
Don’t rush to attach the back wall; it’s more convenient to install the shelves first. It is better to secure them with confirmation in several places. This will add reliability and increase the service life of the shelves;
At the end, the back wall is attached;
Finally, the supports are installed.

Preparing the elements

Connecting the back and sides

Installing skids

Fastening the shelves

Making additional supports

Ready product

TV table

Although TV devices that can easily be mounted on the wall are now common, there are many devices that require special stands. After all, you need to find a place not only for the TV, you may want to install a home theater, a remote control, or find a shelf for a collection of discs. By making a comfortable TV stand yourself, you will not only save money, but will also be able to take into account all your desires - style, how to paint chipboard furniture with your own hands.

The most convenient dimensions for the product are 600x400x1850 mm (height - depth - width). The bedside table is placed directly on the floor, it can withstand serious loads. Making furniture of this size will allow you to easily place even a large TV, and next to it - the rest of the necessary equipment.

First, the frame of the TV stand is assembled;
Place marks for attaching the middle shelf, make holes and install it in place;
From elements 0.12x0.45 mm, assemble frames for drawers. Then attach the plywood bottom to them, with glue or nails;
Install hardware for moving drawers;
Attach handles to the drawers;
Prepare a place for installing the doors by milling and secure them;
At the end of assembly, secure the top panel.

Preparing the details

Screw the bars on the sides

We fix the front part

Fixing shelves for drawers

We make a box, secure the elements with self-tapping screws

Computer desk

The computer, after the refrigerator and TV, is the most popular item in the house. For this reason, the table at which we work must be suitable. A computer desk is a piece of furniture with various devices and parts that can be adjusted if necessary. In addition, a self-made version will cost much less than in a store.

When making a table, you can simplify the work and limit its design to straight lines. Additional shelves, holes for wiring, space for system unit can be made as you want.

Designs of such tables great amount, there are special tables used for a netbook or laptop. In small apartments, transforming tables are convenient. A narrow object will not require much space, and if necessary, it turns into a normal one computer desk, with all the necessary elements.

For independent execution it is better to choose simple model, rectangular in shape. After completing the drawing and cutting out all the parts using a circular saw or jigsaw, you can begin assembly:

Holes are prepared in the central and side walls for attaching the lower shelf. After this, secure it with confirmations;
The top shelf is also attached;
After this, the back wall is installed. It is on the same level as upper parts central and side walls;
Now you need to screw the guide elements for the retractable console under the keyboard;
The table top is attached to the side walls with dowels. You cannot make through holes in the tabletop;
If you plan to make shelves on top of the tabletop, they are also attached to dowels.

Cutting out the details

Safe finishing rules

Chipboard needs to be sawed into pieces slowly; a saw with a fine tooth is better for this - this way you will get an even cutting line. You need to drill smoothly, using only a sharp drill and turning on high speed drills. It is necessary to control the perpendicularity of the drill's entry into the material, otherwise you can chip in a noticeable place. To remove irregularities, a rasp and a plane are needed; the tool is moved from the outside of the workpiece to the inside. It is important to prevent fibers from being pulled out - this will ensure a neat cut of the part;
Laminated chipboard does not need additional processing, you just need to smooth the edge. The rest of the surface is painted, varnished or a special film is glued. Adhesive tape is used to protect the surface from splitting when sawing. If you are cutting by hand, the saw must be positioned at an angle. The edge of a part covered with teeth is an unpleasant sight, especially noticeable on white fiberboard boards. Saw the material slowly; excess haste will cause an unsightly joint between furniture elements;
Dull or slowly rotating drills, in most cases, break out the edges of the hole. Only with the help of a sharp and high-quality drill can you make a smooth hole. If the cut is good, no additional processing will be required. When working, a circular saw leaves irregularities on the edge, which are removed with a plane. He is carefully led along the edge, to inside so that the edge becomes neat. For laminated boards, do not use a rasp;
You can finish the surface of furniture made of fiberboard in 2 ways - either paint furniture made of chipboard or veneer it decorative material or varnish;
Often the lining is carried out with a special film, which on one side has adhesive coating, simplifying the finishing of furniture. It is unusually thin, for this reason the surface must be well sanded before gluing. You can stick laminated plastic, it is stronger and noticeably thicker. It is glued with a special glue; this coating makes chipboard furniture beautiful and at the same time protects the surface from external influences;
Wood products are usually varnished; particle boards are varnished very rarely, only if it is necessary to “ennoble” an unattractive appearance regular stove. Before varnishing, the surface must be leveled with putty. Even after factory processing (without lamination) it needs leveling. The smallest defects will be visible under the varnish film, and this greatly deteriorates the appearance of the furniture. After filling the chipboard, you should get a very smooth surface, and one coat of varnish should be enough for it. If defects are noticeable after varnishing, the surface will need to be sanded again. sandpaper and varnish again;
Layer protective varnish should be thick, it prevents harmful fumes. You need to pay attention to the joints - you need to make them as tight as possible. For chipboard finishing Wallpaper and fabric are not suitable; these are porous materials that are not capable of serving as protection. Also skip harmful substances maybe carpet;
The edges of the fiberboard slab can be trimmed with thin wooden strips. The wood is selected in a suitable color; the material must be in harmony with the coating of the piece of furniture. When you have glued the required number of wood planks, you need to varnish them, like the entire surface, or completely repaint the furniture. Even planks 5 mm thick will protect the edges of the slab well. If you glue a wide strip, it will prevent the tabletop from sagging.

Drawings and diagrams

If you decide to get new furniture, then it is necessary to solve one important issue, this is the installation and assembly of the purchased furniture.

In this case, there are two ways to solve this problem. The first is to carry out the assembly yourself, but in the second case, it is to turn to the services of qualified specialists.

At the same time, any choice has its positive and negative aspects. So, as an example, we can cite the situation: when a person independently started assembling furniture without having any idea about the assembly, this can only cause harm. In addition, it will take a lot of time, and there is also a possibility that the build quality will be very low.

However, if you still use the services of qualified furniture assemblers, then you will have to pay a significant amount of money for such a service, but the quality of the assembly will be at the highest level, and you will also save a lot of personal time.

However, the vast majority of people, in order to save money, try to assemble furniture themselves. Therefore, this article will be a visual and detailed guide for those who want to assemble furniture themselves.

General rules

Before you begin assembly, you must clearly and strictly follow all rules and recommendations.

This is important, because in this case the process of assembling furniture will not seem like a chore to you, but on the contrary, it will seem to you an interesting and exciting activity. Therefore, at the initial stage it is necessary to prepare the necessary tools that may be needed during the work process.

At the same time, special attention must be paid to parts of the furniture where there is glass or a mirror, on the surface of which various scratches and other defects are strictly unacceptable.

It is also mandatory to have detailed assembly instructions, and necessary accessories and elements for fastening.

As a rule, the seller’s representative will hand over the fittings and fasteners to you personally, but it is not uncommon for the fittings and fittings to be placed in the packaging with the furniture.

After this, you need to carefully study the instructions and clearly plan your next steps during assembly. This is necessary so that everything is visible and everything is in the order required by the assembly instructions.

List of required tools

To make the assembly process simple and fast, you need to prepare all the necessary tools. The assembly process itself is a very complex and painstaking operation that requires patience and attention. So, for assembly you will need:

measuring instruments (tape tape, calipers, angle, ruler)
screwdriver
screwdrivers (phillips and regular)
Of course you can't do without a hammer
hexagon set
You will also need a set of wrenches

For a more complex set of furniture, you may additionally need an additional tool:

hammer drill with a set of drills
jigsaw with a set of files of various sizes
and of course a building level and a pencil

Types of furniture fasteners

For a more general and complete understanding of the assembly, you will need to study a little and become familiar with all the necessary fasteners. And there are several types of such elements. Let's look at them.

The most common is a universal screw with a size of 3.5x16. As a rule, such screws are not included in the main kit along with the furniture; they are sold separately.

Its main purpose is to fasten the back wall of a furniture set; you can also fasten hinges and handles. This screw can be used to fix any guides for various pull-out shelves.

Corner. This type of fastening element is intended for fastening the corner parts of furniture to each other. Such elements are usually made of metal, but there are also those made of plastic.

Confirmation. This is a universal fastener fastener, which holds all the main parts of the furniture together. Confirmat is considered one of the most reliable fasteners. It is screwed into a special hole designed for it.

It has many different sizes, but the most common size is 6.4x50 mm. To make it convenient to work with the confirmat, you need to use a hex key of the required size.

So, the main rule when assembling furniture is strict and strict adherence to the instructions that come with the furniture set. Next, you need to draw up an approximate plan for the assembly process.

After which you can begin the assembly process itself. As a rule, the assembly process will not cause serious problems. The thing is that many people buy furniture that is not the most expensive price category, which is made mainly from solid chipboard. This material is very simply and easily fastened using furniture confirmat.

To install the shelves, you will need to make additional markings on which special points are marked for the holes where the fasteners will be screwed in. As an additional fastening element, it is permissible to use corners made of plastic or metal.

The rear part of the furniture set is secured using nails small size, or use a regular furniture stapler.

Therefore, assembling furniture requires special attention and patience. Here you need to do everything consistently and competently without missing out on all the nuances. Of course, certain difficulties may arise during the assembly process, but if you are determined to assemble the furniture yourself, you will overcome all difficulties.

Photo of correctly assembled furniture

Today, furniture for residential premises is not cheap, so many are trying to find a way to save at least a little on its purchase. But you shouldn’t opt for a cheap, low-quality product; there is another way out. To save on furniture, you can opt for cabinet models and try to assemble them yourself after purchase. To do this, you need to know what tools are needed and how to properly assemble cabinet furniture without the help of a specialist.

Benefit from self-assembly cabinet furniture is obvious: a person gets the opportunity to save on the wages of a furniture craftsman. Also, many will simply be interested in removing this process. We will describe in detail what tools may be needed in the process of assembling cabinet furniture on your own.

Current assembly and fixture tools:

a 12, 14 or 18 volt screwdriver (with a bit for confirmation) is the main tool that will be required during the assembly and installation of cabinet furniture;
bit PZ different sizes for self-tapping screws: PZ1 for fixing screws Ф3 mm, PZ2 in case of using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5-5 mm, PZ4 for mounting eccentric couplers Ф15 mm;
confirmation drill for organizing holes for hardware;
awl;
a simple pencil for marking furniture parts, a ruler;
cutter for hinges.

It is also extremely important to understand what fasteners will be needed, especially for an inexperienced furniture maker. The most popular options are products of different sizes with cross-shaped slots. We will describe the most popular of them below.

Assembly technology

To make the work process easier, you should read some popular manual on assembling a cabinet or cabinet-type bed, or watch a video. To save time, we will describe how cabinet furniture is assembled on our own and without the help of an experienced furniture maker.

Today you can use several types of assembly of a piece of furniture:

eccentric tie is an assembly method with high reliability of connections and the absence of caps from hardware on external sides surfaces of a piece of furniture. The technology is also very popular because the product design remains neat. Although it is worth admitting that the assembly process using this method can take quite a lot of time. Especially if there is not much experience in such matters;
a furniture corner is considered an outdated method, so it is done extremely rarely today. And all because such connections look somewhat sloppy. The use of a furniture corner is considered justified only in the case of creating a piece of economy class furniture;
furniture dowel is used for pieces of furniture that are not expected to bear significant loads. To create such connections, you will need to arrange holes for the diameter of the dowel, located at the ends of the product. Next, using an adhesive composition, the parts are combined into a single piece of furniture. Obviously, to disassemble assembled structure will not be possible;
Confirmat is an assembly of a Euroscrew or furniture screw, characterized by simplicity, efficiency, and economy. To complete the job, you will need screws and plugs with which you can veil the cap.

Scheme and drawings

It is extremely important not to disrupt the sequence of assembly of the parts of the future design. Therefore, you should first read the instructions for assembling cabinet furniture with drawings. Then assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands will bring not only a lot of positive emotions, will allow you to save your own money, but will also provide you with beautiful and high-quality furniture.

The assembly diagram will allow you to understand when and how this or that part is used. Each part of the future piece of furniture, the place where it is fastened to another part, as well as the fittings relevant to it, have their own symbol. This makes the work process easier.

Furniture is often packed in several small boxes, which you shouldn’t rush to unpack all at once. Otherwise, the parts may be mixed up. Sectional sets should be assembled sequentially, referring to drawings and templates. First the lower sections, then wall cabinets with fronts, open shelves.

Assembling the case and attaching the rear wall

Installing shelf supports and drawer guides

Installation of sliding doors

Common mistakes

Often, all the information necessary for work is contained in the assembly instructions for a specific piece of furniture, which is included with it. If you violate the manufacturer's recommendations specified in this document, you can get quite serious problems, some of which can make long-term use of a piece of furniture impossible.

Common mistakes that inexperienced furniture makers make:

carelessly placed markings lead to errors in joining individual parts furniture. Treat this issue with increased attention;
the back of the cabinet is confused with the front, the left side with the right. Also, the facade is often attached to the body with the wrong side. If we are talking about an experienced assembler, then one can hardly expect such mistakes from such a person. In the case of the first attempt to assemble a cabinet on your own without the help of a specialist, it is quite possible to confuse the bottom with the roof;
before fixing the parts into a single whole, number them according to the assembly diagram;
Very often, connecting fittings are not tightened to the limit, which provokes the appearance of gaps in the places where two parts are connected. But it is also not recommended to overdo it, otherwise you can damage the mounting socket;
You should not neglect the issue of organizing holes for hardware. If they are crooked, the connections of individual parts of the future body will be unreliable, and the parts themselves may crack.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces.

You can use a power tool in your work, which simplifies the attachment of a particular part to the body

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners

Select fasteners after you have decided on the main material

Location of buildings

Depending on the size of the piece of furniture, the features of its assembly will differ. The tall cabinet can be assembled in a lying or standing position. The first option is easier to implement. To determine whether the pieces of furniture can be fastened in a lying position, lift the side wall of the piece up and lean it against the wall. If the part does not touch the ceiling at an angle, then the work will be much easier. Once assembled, the structure can be lifted and installed in the desired location.