Actinidia Kolomikta: secrets of agricultural technology, reproduction

My favorite actinidia

In the fall of 1990, I purchased 4 actinidia kolomikta seedlings, of which 3 were female and 1 was male. The seedlings were 2 years old and had a good fibrous root system. Our dacha was only 2 years old at that time. We chose a planting site along the fence on the southwestern side of the site. They planted them at a distance of 1.5 m from the fence and also 1.5 m between plants. In the year of planting, the seedlings were covered with spruce branches for the winter. The seedlings overwintered well and gave good growth in the first year, and since it is a vine, we installed a temporary support. The actinidia was no longer removed from the support and covered for the winter. In the 3rd year, a permanent support was installed, which is a wall of 4 vertical pipes 3 m high and 4 horizontal crossbars.

In the first years, they guided the vine along the support and formed bushes. We do pruning and shaping at the beginning of summer, after the end of sap flow. We cut off thickened or damaged shoots, shorten the immature tips of the growths. We do not dig in the plants, but sprinkle them with humus, since the roots are located close to the surface.

In the first years, fertilizers were applied - complex mineral fertilizer in early spring, in the fall- superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash.

Now, when our actinidia is a powerful wall of intertwined shoots about 4 meters high and at least 1.5 m wide, sparrows fertilize it. In spring and autumn, hordes of these birds settle in it. In actinidia we have built two titmice, in which sparrows also live. The birds do not touch the berries. The soil underneath became very loose. Actinidia Kolomikta loves moist air, so, especially on hot days, we water it by sprinkling, but not the leaves, but inside the vines.

In all these years she has never been sick with anything. Honeysuckle bushes were planted in front of the actinidia, which shade it from below.

In the 3rd year after planting, actinidia began to bloom and pleased with the first berries.

Actinidia Kolomikta blooms from June 1 to June 5, when honeysuckle begins to sing. You enter the dacha and feel a subtle, unique, exotic aroma. After flowering, in male (mostly) plants, part of the leaves, most often from the top and on the sunny side, acquire a soft pink tone, which over time intensifies to a bright crimson. This unusual transformation greatly decorates the actinidia and our garden.

In 2002, when the air was -7°C on May 13, the leaves and flower buds turned black and fell off. But after the frost, new leaves and color appeared. The harvest was not damaged by this.

This year, two buckets of excellent berries were collected from 3 actinidia bushes, not counting the fallen ones. Her only flaw- The berries ripen gradually and fall off. Actinidia ripens in early September. We collect it in one go, scatter it in a dark, cool place, and in 2-3 days the berries ripen. Ripe fruits are sweet, juicy, tender, with strong aroma pineapple Actinidia is good both fresh and frozen; we prepare compotes and “raw” jam.

In our garden, actinidia is the most beautiful and favorite crop.

Maya Georgievna Fedorkova , Samara

How to determine the sex of actinidia?

Once I bought several actinidia seedlings at the market. In the 4th year they bloomed. They bloom profusely, but there are no berries. No damage from pests or diseases is visible. The liana is already four meters in height. What's the matter? Elena Stepanova, Samara.

Actinidia- The plant is dioecious (dioecious), represented by male and female individuals. We can assume that you have vines of one sex growing, and for fruiting you need to replant seedlings of the other sex.

How to determine gender, you ask? Only by the structure of the flowers. U female plants the flowers are solitary, with a large upper ovary, pistil and numerous stamens with sterile pollen. In males, they are located in the leaf axils in the form of inflorescences of 2-3 or more flowers with well-developed stamens and without pistils. Pollination occurs with the help of wind and insects. Several plants need to be grown on the site. Optimal ratio- at least 2 male copies for 5-7 female ones. If one male plant dies, the second will replace it.

Tamara Alexandrova Yudina , head horticulture department

Rules for rooting Actinidia Kolomikta

The rooting process of actinidia is relatively easy: cuttings, layering, dividing the bush; with and without stimulants. In the year of rooting, shoot segments form almost no increments: mostly 3-5, rarely 10 cm. Semi-lignified (green, but not grassy) cuttings are placed at an angle of 45° when rooting. A month later (in August) they form weak roots and give small increments. Immediately after rooting, having an unbranched root system, they are only 70-80% ready for transplantation. This means that out of 10 transplanted plants, only 7-8 take root in the new location. If you postpone the process of transplanting cuttings rooted in the first year until the leaves naturally fall (in October), then this percentage increases to 90-95. 95 percent means that with 9 strong surviving plants, the 10th is weakened: it may survive, or it may not. When transplanted at the age of two (shoot growth up to 50 cm), almost all of the actinidia rooted in this way survive, 98-100%.

In practice, this means: 9 - they take root easily, 10th- Having been ill, it also takes root, but grows slower than the others in the year of planting. How better conditions when transplanting, the greater the probability of survival of the 10th weakened plant (and other similar ones, making up 10% of the rest).

What factors determine these conditions in cold weather? autumn- winter period? Let me start with the fact that frosts down to -40°C after the natural fall of leaves are not terrible for actinidia. They only matter good drainage(from getting wet), excess organic matter and partial shade (from the sun). In relatively open sun, shading of the lower basal part of the actinidia is necessary. Depending on soil conditions, these rules even within one Samara region adjustments must be made. For example, in the southern part of the region (the area of ​​Samara, Kinel, Chapaevsk, etc., where heavy loamy soils predominate), drainage is needed. For this purpose, you can use sand (preferably coarse-grained river sand), which is mixed with the given soil and well-rotted organic matter.- manure or compost (take equal parts). In the north (Tolyatti region, Kurumoch village, Semeykino village, Sokskie dachas, etc., light loamy and sandy loam soils predominate) you can do without adding sand. Here they are limited only to the addition of organic matter (1 part humus and 2 parts soil). However, in such conditions of good natural drainage, soil moisture must be carefully controlled. Good result gives systematic (2-3 times per summer) mulching (covering) the root zone with any compost (all this can be covered with sawdust on top). It is impossible to over-moisten, otherwise actinidia may die from soaking of the root system.

Gennady Ivanovich Sobolev , Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Samara

Actinidia Kolomikta from seeds

Cold season- best time for stratification- pre-sowing preparation seeds perennial plants. I'll focus on just one- perennial vine Actinidia kolomikte.

Unfortunately, it is not yet easy to purchase actinidia seedlings. However, it is not difficult to grow full-fledged plants from seeds. In addition, seedlings are better adapted to local climatic conditions, unlike seedlings brought from other regions. Seeds require stratification.

I propose a methodology for doing it.

Seeds of ripened berries should be poured into a nylon bag and placed in a 0.5 liter jar, half filled with well-washed, oven-calcined and slightly (!) moistened sand. Cover with a lid with holes and refrigerate (temperature from +2 to +5°C) for 3.5 months. Every 10-12 days, the bag of seeds should be removed from the sand and ventilated. If mold appears, wash the seeds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, sterilize the sand and continue stratification again.

Then sow the seeds in a box- a greenhouse to be placed on a southern windowsill. The composition of the soil in the box: equal amounts of sand, forest soil, well-rotted mullein and peat. Sowing depth is 1-2 mm. Water with warm water once a week. In the phase of 3-4 leaves, the plants should be gradually hardened, opening the greenhouse slightly.

Hardened seedlings should be planted in the ground in early June, after the threat of frost has passed.

Ryapolov I. D. , Kursk

Stranger actinidia Kolomikta

For the broad masses of gardeners, actinidia continues to remain a curiosity. But this is not only tasty, but also a very valuable food crop. In addition to a set of vitamins, it contains a number of biologically active substances, including the enzyme actinidin, which promotes the digestion of meat and other products. The aroma of actinidia fruits may resemble strawberries, bananas, watermelons, apples, but most often- a pineapple.

In Russia, Actinidia kolomikta and its hybrids are mainly cultivated. Why has this particular species gained the greatest popularity among us? Yes, because it is the most winter-hardy and unpretentious. But at the same time, its fruits are small, weighing 1.5-4 g (in cultivated varieties- up to 7-8 g), prone to severe shedding. The bushes are of medium height, the yield is insignificant.

Another type of actinidia- arguta- is a very vigorous vine. It grows mainly in the Primorsky Territory and Sakhalin, in climatic conditions middle zone Russia freezes to the level of snow.

Kiwi chicks

Breeders thought about how to improve the nutritional and commercial qualities of actinidia fruits at the beginning of the last century. The result was the plant we all know well as kiwi. By the way, the kiwi bird- New Zealand emblem.

Work on the selection of actinidia was carried out in our country, and it continues to this day. A number of varieties of Actinidia kolomikta were obtained in Moscow. The new products were distinguished by rather large fruits with good taste.

But the works of the Kyiv scientist, candidate biological sciences I. Shaitana. He conducted experiments on interspecific crossing of actinidia kolomikta, argutta and purpurea. New hybrid varieties have emerged- September, Kiev hybrid, Kiev large-fruited (anniversary), Purple garden, Figured. True, they turned out to be less winter-hardy than kolomikta, but in cultivation they can withstand frosts down to -30...35°C. At the same time, they are distinguished by great growth vigor, large-fruited fruit (fruit weight from 8 to 25 g), good taste and high yield. Today they are the most promising for cultivation in central Russia.

“Emerald” liana

In 1989, after stratification, I sowed the seeds of Kyiv hybrid and Kyiv large-fruited. Of course, hybrids do not pass on their maternal properties to their “children” during seed propagation. Nevertheless, I was pleased with the results.

Of the six plants, two turned out to be “men”, the rest, of course- “young ladies.” Male individuals differed from others in their great growth vigor, gray shoots and dark green glossy leaves.

Of the four female vines, one grew the tallest and most prolific. The berries are large (weighing 9-10 g), Green colour, with a strong pineapple scent. I named this actinidia Emerald .

The other “sister” is very similar to the first, only the fruits are smaller. But the third one has berries weighing 14-15 g, green, with a pink tint. The flesh is also pink and tastes like pineapple. At the same time, the bushes themselves turned out to be less vigorous. The yield is very high, the fruits ripen a little later than other seedlings. I called this variety Super. The fourth “young lady” turned out to be even less tall. And her productivity is lower than that of others. The berries weigh 7-8 g, bright pink, sweet, without aroma. This actinidia was named Rubin. All vines have fruits that “hold on well.” But when fully ripe, some of them still begin to crumble. However, with the exception of Rubin. This one's berries do not fall off at all, even after the plant has shed all its leaves. It is at this moment that it is best to harvest the “rubies”.

10 years later

It was not by chance that I indicated the year in which I sowed the hybrid actinidia seedlings. After all, more than 10 years have passed since then. It's time to take stock.

The first thing I'll note- The vines on my site have never frozen, despite low temperatures air in winter. True, I place plantings only in poorly ventilated areas of the garden, under the protection of buildings. Plants planted on summer cottages on the banks of the Volga, where strong winds blow in winter, they freeze to the level of snow.

Actinidia tolerates summer heat well. But during very dry periods, its leaves may lose turgor. After all, the bulk of the plant’s roots are located in the surface layer of soil. Therefore, in hot weather, daily watering is required. It is better to spend them in the late afternoon, irrigating the crown and trunk circle. It is also a good idea to mulch the latter with half-rotted leaf humus or other available material and shade it with shields. I install panels made of slate or picket fence 1-1.2 m high at right angles to each other in the direction from north to south. It is better to water the soil using the drip method.

Actinidia, especially young ones, are quite sensitive to returning spring frosts. Due to the very early flow of sap, their bark may crack at the bottom of the trunk when the sap freezes. To delay the flow of sap, the shields that shade the tree trunk circle in summer are left in the winter. In spring, snow melts more slowly in the shade, and the vines will “sleep” longer.

Stocky “men”

When planting actinidia, it should be taken into account that this plant does not tolerate stagnation of melt water: freezing in winter, it can damage the bark. Therefore, it is better to place the seedlings on a small, barely noticeable mound or slope (preferably northern).

Hybrid actinidia- very vigorous vine. For normal development, she needs strong support. For this purpose, you can use a trellis 2-3 m high, but harvesting from it is not very convenient. It is better to grow actinidia in a gallery, the height of which should be optimal- with the aim of not using stepladders when collecting fruits. Instead of such a gallery, you can use a gazebo or canopy over the parking lot.

Many gardeners believe that actinidia does not need pruning or shaping. From my own experience I was convinced that this is not so. In the absence of annual pruning, fruit-bearing vines quickly disappear to the periphery of the bush, and perennial wood becomes bare.

The formation and pruning of actinidia is similar to that for vigorous grapes, but much simpler. In the fall, after the end of the growing season, broken, underdeveloped branches that thicken the crown are cut out. All annual shoots are cut to 50-70 cm, since all the fruit buds of the plant are located within this length. Keep in mind that you cannot prune actinidia in the spring. Otherwise, she will “cry” bitterly, that is, sap will flow from the wounds.

Pruning actinidia also depends on its gender. “Men” are cut off more than “women.” As a result, the bushes become shorter and stockier. The main purpose of such pruning is to provide female vines with pollen in sufficient quantities. For the same reason, “men” are planted separately from females, at a distance of 5-10 m from the latter. And preferably from the side from which the wind blows. So that it helps the actinidia to reproduce. One male vine will pollinate 3-5 female ones.

The best way to propagate varietal actinidia- green cuttings. At the same time, all varietal characteristics are preserved. Plants begin to bear fruit at 4-5 years. Lignified autumn cuttings do not take root. By sowing the seeds, you will receive seedlings with completely new properties. Sometimes they are superior to the maternal ones, but more often- inferior to them. For sowing, only seeds from the previous harvest are used, which must undergo 2-month stratification. Germination rate is high, but approximately half or even a little more of the seedlings will be male. At first, “men” can only be recognized by their more intensive growth. More reliable information about gender can be obtained only after 5-6 years, during the flowering period. Male plants usually bloom a year earlier than female ones. And their flowers are collected in large clusters. Whereas on female vines the flowers “sit in splendid isolation” or in pairs or threes. In the center of such a flower is the future green ovary.

Pineapple flavor

Actinidia Kolomikta- very tasty and healthy berry. It is better to consume it raw to avoid loss of vitamins and nutrients. You can also make raw jam from its berries.

This is how I do it. I lay out freshly picked fruits in 1-2 layers on a baking sheet. There they lie for a day or two until fully ripened. Then I wash them, tearing off the stems and tails. Not a large number of I place the berries in an enamel cup and mash them thoroughly with a wooden masher. I transfer the liquid mass into an enamel basin. I take the next portion. When everything is mashed, add sugar (1-1.2 kg per 1 kg of berries). Mix everything thoroughly and leave for a day for the sugar to completely dissolve. I store it in the refrigerator.

Raw jam from Actinidia Kolomikta tastes very pleasant and also has a strong pineapple aroma. This means you have a chance to pleasantly surprise your family and guests by serving this dish to the New Year’s table.

Olga Pavlovna Andrianova , Saratov

The actinidia plant is a perennial liana-like shrub that belongs to the Actinidia family, genus Actinidia. An excellent extraordinary purchase for yours! Of the more than 30 species of this genus, three are found growing wild: kolomikta, arguta, polygamous. The first of them has higher winter hardiness than the others, and therefore is of undoubted interest for amateur gardeners. Actinidia kolomikta is famous for its juicy, aromatic yellow berries. The length of the fruits of different varieties ranges from 1.5 to 4 cm, weight - from 2 to 5 g. The berries are rich in vitamin C, taste sweet with a slight acidity and a subtle aroma of pineapple. They ripen at different times and fall off as they ripen. From fresh berries of the actinidia plant you can make excellent juices, jams, candied fruits, raisins, and sultanas. The use of actinidia plant berries is widely known in the field of traditional medicine, for example, for bleeding, tuberculosis and as an anthelmintic. Actinidia berries are also known to be used in dentistry.

The actinidia kolomikta plant grows better and bears fruit more abundantly on well-fertilized, moderately moist loamy or sandy loam soils. Root system its fibrous, highly branched, located superficially. Only individual roots penetrate to a depth of 50-60 cm. Plants cannot tolerate drought, flooding, or close groundwater; they grow poorly in waterlogged areas. The stems of the bush branch strongly, the shoots curl around the support counterclockwise, and in the absence of support they spread along the ground, which negatively affects the yield of berries. The bark of perennial trunks is dark brown, and that of young shoots is brown and shiny with yellow-orange convex lenticels in the form of dots. The core of the shoots is yellowish.

The buds of actinidia kolomikta are closed, hidden in the middle of the roller, which is formed in the axil of the leaf. Thus, it is protected from the effects of adverse winter weather conditions. The bud cone begins to appear from the opening of the roller with the onset of spring. The leaves are leathery, finely serrated along the edges, without stipules. In summer, some leaves turn half or completely white or white-pink. Actinidia kolomikta is a dioecious plant, that is, only male flowers are formed on some bushes, and female flowers on others.

Features of growing actinidia

Adult plants are very frost- and winter-hardy, withstanding frosts down to -40°C, but young plants, up to 2-3 years of age, require protection and shelter for the winter. They are also sensitive to spring ground frosts. Actinidia kolomikta is photophilous, but can withstand partial shade, and even requires shade when young. When growing actinidia, choose rich, leafy soil, but it grows well in any slightly acidic, well-drained garden soil, especially if it is fertilized with rotted manure or compost. Loves humid air and soil, but cannot tolerate stagnant moisture. Responsive to watering and mulching the soil. It does not require pruning; if necessary, it is carried out in mid-summer. In spring, it “cries” due to which it loses a lot of juice; As a result, the plant is weakened, so pruning in spring is not recommended. For normal height and fruiting requires mandatory supports, but it is not advisable to use trees for this purpose. It is more expedient to use trellises, gazebos, verandas, fences, etc. structures. The first years it grows slowly. The transplant is tolerated well. It likes regular watering, is responsive to fertilizing and fertilizing, in the spring - nitrogen, and before flowering and after harvesting - phosphorus-potassium.

Due to rapid shedding, they have low transportability. Therefore, Actinidia kolomikta is still promising only for amateur gardening and is of little use for industrial gardening. Among the pests, besides cats, actinidia are harmed by mole crickets and foot mole crickets.

Which varieties can be grown in which areas?

I.V. Michurin developed several cultivated varieties of Actinidia kolomikta: Klara Zetkin, Pineapple Michurina, Krupnaya Michurinskaya and others, which are worth testing more widely in cultivation. in North-west. If they grow poorly, it is advisable to use seeds for extensive acclimatization. The latter will undoubtedly have better and more cultural properties than seeds obtained from indigenous wild plants Far East. For the Moscow region About 20 local varieties of Actinidia kolomikta have been bred: Vinogradnaya, Rannyaya Zarya, Universitetskaya, Neznakomka, Fantasy Gardens, Priusadebnaya, etc., you can also try to acclimatize them in the North-West. In addition, at the Pavlovsk experimental station For Leningrad region their own zoned varieties of actinidia have been developed, there are not many of them yet, but they already exist: these are VIR-1, Dostoynaya, Leningradskaya krupnaya, Pavlovskaya, Pobeda, etc.

Most cultivated varieties are dioecious and therefore require a pollinator variety to be planted nearby. As such, it is most advisable to use the Komandir variety. When growing actinidia, you should constantly protect young plants from cats, which dig up and gnaw the roots, bark and buds of young shoots; They are not dangerous for adult plants. In addition to fruit, it has medicinal and decorative value. It can be used in landscape design for vertical gardening as a draping vine. It is also suitable for landscaping the walls of houses, gazebos and other small architectural forms, to create a hedge growing on supports. It is also possible to keep it on balconies and loggias as a winter-hardy perennial.

Trimming

Pruning actinidia has its own characteristics. Like grapes, they cannot be pruned while the sap is flowing. This is done in early autumn or winter so that the wounds have time to heal slightly. The main directions are rejuvenation - rejuvenation and crown formation.


However, in the garden bushes can grow completely outside the rules.
Lianas (kolomikta and arguta) grow into a huge wall, completely displacing the row of ginseng. And, judging by their growth and fruiting, they are quite happy with this state of affairs. You don’t have to trim or feed. In this case you will feel wildlife, which this plant creates, is especially appropriate in hot weather.
Harvesting Actinidia


Actinidia kolomikta bears fruit annually. During the period of full fruiting average harvest per vine is more than 7 kg.


Berries in the shade ripen much earlier than in the sun. This is due to the accumulation of vitamin C in fruits: it accumulates faster in the shade.


Actinidia berries begin to ripen at the end of August and beginning of September at different times (within 15-20 days), which makes harvesting difficult. Ripe fruits become darker green or slightly yellowish, some become translucent, so that small seeds can be seen through the walls of the fruit.


There are vines from which ripe berries do not fall off. However, often ripened actinidia fruits crumble and break if they fall on a hard surface. During the period of ripening of berries, you can hang a cloth or lay kraft paper under the vine, but this is not always convenient.


You can also do this: wait a week after the first actinidia berries begin to ripen, and then remove all the berries from the vine. They ripen in the shade, in a ventilated area without foreign odors. This will take no more than a week.


However, when ripening, the wonderful aroma and taste of actinidia berries are somewhat lost; Still, the most delicious berries are those that ripened naturally and fell from the vine.


Under no circumstances should you ripen and dry washed actinidia berries in the sun - they will “cook”, become yellow and tasteless.


The fruits of Actinidia kolomikta contain more vitamin C than blackcurrants and lemons combined! “A handful of berries are vitamins for the year,” they say about actinidia.


When the berries begin to ripen en masse, collect them and sort them by ripeness. Actinidia berries can be consumed fresh; you can make jam, jam, juice, wine, compote, and jelly from them. You can wilt the fruits. I recommend using ripe, soft, crumbled actinidia berries for wine fermentation and making wine; do not wash them.
Actinidia pests


The most important pests of actinidia are cats. Therefore, until the age of five to six years, actinidia need to be protected with a net.


Beauty in the garden


Actinidia are very decorative. In the first half of summer, white and light pink spots, and sometimes bright crimson, appear on the leaves of kolomikta. After flowering, the variegated color fades somewhat, but does not disappear. For decorative purposes, the vine is suitable for creating partitions that divide an area into zones. It can be placed along the front lattice fence, or fenced off from the neighboring area. Actinidia is organic in landscaping arbors and trunks of dried trees. With its powerful stems - vines, moving from tree to tree, actinidia gives the garden a tropical flavor.
ECOLOGY:
Winter hardiness is high. In the south of Primorye it grows in harsh climatic conditions. The requirements for soil conditions are optimal. Very demanding on soil moisture. Shade-tolerant. Affected by sunburn. Growth rate is optimal (average). Anthropogenic factors significantly reduce the distribution and abundance of vines in natural habitats. Particularly destructive are fires, “scorches”, development of territory for the construction of facilities, and unregulated harvesting of fruits. In urban conditions it grows normally. Smoke and gas resistance is average.


SPREADING:
Homeland - CIS (Primorsky Territory - southern regions, Sakhalin, Kuril Islands - south), China, DPRK, Japan. The northern border of the range runs in the Primorsky Territory through Spassky, Kirovsky, Chuguevsky, and Lazovsky districts. Available in the collection of the Botanical Garden-Institute of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

Actinidia kolomikta:

Jobs of the month.
APRIL.


Spring is the best time to plant actinidia seedlings. Roots begin to develop as the soil thaws.


The plant is very decorative and grows well near buildings on the northwest or northeast side on a trellis or pergola. Liana quickly wraps herself around them and gives them good shade. And in June, shortly before flowering, some leaves turn white and crimson. This phenomenon is called variegation and is a biological feature of the plant. Moreover, male vines are more often colored.

In actinidia growing in partial shade, the berries accumulate vitamins and ripen faster. However, in more northern regions in such conditions, if improperly fertilized, the vines do not ripen and may suffer from frost. To avoid this, stop fertilizing (no more than half the dose) by mid-July.


It is enough to mulch shaded actinidia in the spring with rotted leaf compost or vermicompost. But on sunny areas Young plants must be shaded with shields or taller annuals and constant care must be taken to ensure that the mulch is not depleted.


Actinidia prefers moist, fertile, sandy and loamy soils. Prepare planting holes 50-60 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep at a distance of 2 m from each other. To begin, lay the drainage and add 8-10 kg of vermicompost, humus, peat or compost. When planting, actinidia seedlings need to be buried, leaving 2-3 buds on the surface. The planting hole should be filled with fertile soil with a layer of 10 cm, then with a mixture of equal parts of humus, sand and soil with a layer of 20-30 cm. After this, water the seedlings generously and mulch with peat or compost.
Since actinidia is a dioecious plant, it is necessary to plant both female and male specimens.

In early April, during the period of bud break, actinidia needs to be fed (except for recently planted plants). Place a 5 cm layer of rotted manure around the plants. This mulch suppresses the growth of weeds, provides oxygen access to the roots, serves as fertilizer and retains moisture.


Immediately after planting, install supports. The most common system for forming vines is a vertical cordon, when plants are placed on a trellis in the same vertical plane. Pull the bottom wire at a height of 60cm, the top -2.5 m, the rest at your discretion.


Within the middle zone, actinidia is not susceptible to diseases and does not have any significant pests, except domestic cats. They can completely destroy young vines. A cage made of nylon threads will help save them.


The first years after planting, actinidia grow slowly. They begin bearing fruit at 5-6 years. Last year's lower branches can be used for propagation by layering. To do this, in April, lay top part shoot into a groove 5-7 cm deep and press with hooks.


Tie emerging young shoots to stakes, sprinkle with soil, and then compact it at the base of each new shoot. Layers take root quite easily. By autumn next year you will have plants ready for planting. permanent place.


Actinidia kolomikta:

Jobs of the month.
MAY


On warm May days, actinidia begins to grow rapidly. The main task is to protect the plant from frost, which is often observed on the 20th. Young vines that have not yet begun to bear fruit suffer especially. Cover the entire trellis before freezing.


In the evening, when the temperature drops below +9 degrees. fumigate the actinidia with a smoke bomb. Since other plants are also blooming at this time, the protection will be comprehensive.


If this is not done, then adult vines will recover after severe frosts, but do not expect a harvest. Young plants that have never bear fruit grow only from buds located underground.


After flowering, feed actinidia with diluted chicken manure (1:20) or cow manure (1:10) 2-3 buckets per vine


Actinidia kolomikta:
work in June-July
(for middle zone gardening)


It is possible to distinguish a male plant from a female one only during flowering. This happens quite late, when the danger of frost has passed. Flowers on male vines have only stamens, collected in large inflorescences of 12-17 pieces. Female vines have small inflorescences (1-3 flowers), a small ovary is clearly visible, and there are stamens and a pistil. However, own pollen is rarely capable of pollination. There are self-fertile vines, their stamens are at the level of the pistil. But even without a male plant, they produce few berries.
The fragrant flowers are tilted downwards like an unfolded umbrella and are not afraid of warm rain. They are perfectly pollinated by wild bees and bumblebees.


If you need to get rooted cuttings, in the first half of June, when the young growing shoots of actinidia reach 15-20 cm, spread them on the soil and sprinkle them. For normal growth, be sure to leave the top of the shoot above the soil surface.
Make sure the soil under the vines is moist and loose. Young seedlings especially need this. If the summer is dry, do not forget about regular watering. With a lack of moisture, vines are stunted in growth and shed their leaves.
Recipes for using actinidia fruits

Actinidia berries, pureed with sugar


“Raw” jam” is the most valuable product actinidia processing. Do not give your child a lot of this jam (it acts as a mild laxative), it can cause intestinal upset.


Wash hard and slightly soft fruits in two waters and remove the “tails”. Dry them in the shade and let them ripen.


Mash the ripe actinidia fruits with a wooden pestle and add sugar at the rate: for 1 kg of berries - 2 kg of sugar. Package in dark liter sterile jars no more than 3/4 of the volume, and better - no more than 0.5 liters (with such a mass, actinidia almost does not ferment, just like black currant). Place the jars in a dark, cool place (no higher than 15 degrees). In this form, actinidia can be stored for 2-3 years, while vitamin “C” is completely preserved.


Use actinidia “raw jam”:

as a component in compotes (actinidia gives drinks a unique taste);

as a filling for pies, sweets;

as a cure for constipation (best folk remedy if you can’t find it) - take a teaspoon of jam every day;

as a heart remedy (used similarly to valerian, but has a weaker and milder effect);


Actinidia dried


Dry ripe fruits, peeled from stalks and perianth remains, in an oven or in the oven at a temperature of 50-60 degrees. Dried actinidia berries have a pleasant sour taste, similar to raisins.


Store dried fruits in compressed form, wrapped in cellophane.


Actinidia compote


Wash the fruits, remove the stalks, place them in jars up to the shoulders and pour boiling syrup (250-300 g of sugar per liter of water). At a temperature of 80 degrees, pasteurize: half-liter jars - 10 minutes, liter jars - 15 minutes.


Actinidia fruit wine


Weigh ripe, soft, unwashed berries. In an enamel or porcelain bowl (to avoid oxidation), mash the fruits with a stainless steel spoon or wooden pestle. It is almost impossible to squeeze juice from fresh actinidia berries. Pour water into the container with the fruits - an amount equal to the weight of the berries, stir.


Measure out the sugar - approximately 1.5 kg of sugar per 1 kg of fruit. Such a large amount of sugar is necessary due to the significant content of vitamin C in the berries, otherwise the wine will be sour and quickly spoil.


It is better to add sugar in two steps: add the first part immediately, and the second part on the 4-5th day of vigorous fermentation.


Fill the bottle no more than 2/3 full with a mixture of berries, water and sugar. Place a rubber ball (or a medical glove) over the neck of the bottle and pierce a hole with a needle to remove carbon dioxide.


It is best to make a wine starter from fallen ripe berries 7 days before installing the main amount of wort for fermentation. Grind them and mix with water and a little sugar. Pour the fermented starter into a bottle with the main amount of wort.


Place the bottle in semi-darkness.


After vigorous fermentation, when the pulp stops moving in the bottle, pour the wort into another bottle, pouring it to the very edge. Close the neck with a rubber ball. Quiet fermentation of the wine begins; it lasts a long time - 3-4 months.


When the wine is almost clear, drain it from the sediment using a tube, taste it and add sugar if necessary. Young golden yellow wine from actinidia is light, moderately sweet and slightly bitter.


Pour the wine into clean, sterile bottles as completely as possible and close them tightly. Store it at a temperature of +10-15 degrees until completely clarified.


But it is better to drink this wine after 2-3 years of aging - then the sugar is no longer felt in it, it acquires the unique taste and aroma of a good vintage Muscat wine. The older the wine, the darker and tastier it is, the richer the bouquet.

Actinidia wine is medicinal - it contains a huge amount of vitamin C and healing substances.

Actinidia kolomikta is an excellent ornamental and fruit vine that deserves wide distribution in gardens. Tree-like shoots of actinidia, wrapping counterclockwise around the support, wonderfully decorate the gazebo; This densely leafy vine provides good shade.

Actinidia kolomikta is especially beautiful in June. Its large wrinkled leaves are interesting because they change color. At the beginning of growth they are bronze, then become green with a transition to dark green. Shortly before flowering, the leaves of the vine become variegated, especially in open areas. At first, some of the leaves turn white at the tips; sometimes half the leaf and even almost its entire blade turn white. In individual actinidia leaves, whitening takes 1-2 days. Then, after 8-9 days, both these albino and new green leaves turn pink. Both leaves soon turn crimson or crimson-red. Some of the leaves of Actinidia kolomikta retain this silver-crimson outfit for some time. Cut branches with variegated leaves are very impressive in a vase.

The bright decoration of actinidia leaves during flowering attracts insects to it for pollination. The blooming liana fills the garden with an extraordinary aroma, reminiscent of the smell of garden jasmine. White fragrant flowers actinidia kolomikta on long drooping pedicels are quite large (up to 1.5 cm in diameter).

Ripe fruits are soft and tender oblong berries (up to 2.5 cm long, weighing 3.5-5.5 g) with a pleasant smell and taste.

In autumn, Actinidia kolomikta is also very decorative: its leaves are painted in bright yellow, pinkish or violet-red tones.

Harvesting Actinidia

Actinidia kolomikta bears fruit annually. During the period of full fruiting, the average yield from the vine is more than 7 kg.

Berries in the shade ripen much earlier than in the sun. This is due to the accumulation of vitamin C in fruits: it accumulates faster in the shade.

Actinidia berries begin to ripen at the end of August and beginning of September at different times (within 15-20 days), which makes harvesting difficult. Ripe fruits become darker green or slightly yellowish, some become translucent, so that small seeds can be seen through the walls of the fruit.

There are vines from which ripe berries do not fall off. However, often ripened actinidia fruits crumble and break if they fall on a hard surface. During the period of ripening of berries, you can hang a cloth or lay kraft paper under the vine, but this is not always convenient.

You can also do this: wait a week after the first actinidia berries begin to ripen, and then remove all the berries from the vine. They ripen in the shade, in a ventilated area without foreign odors. This will take no more than a week.

However, when ripening, the wonderful aroma and taste of actinidia berries are somewhat lost; Still, the most delicious berries are those that ripened naturally and fell from the vine.

Under no circumstances should you ripen and dry washed actinidia berries in the sun - they will “cook”, become yellow and tasteless.

The fruits of Actinidia kolomikta contain more vitamin C than blackcurrants and lemons combined! “A handful of berries are vitamins for the year,” they say about actinidia.

When the berries begin to ripen en masse, collect them and sort them by ripeness. Actinidia berries can be consumed fresh; you can make jam, jam, juice, wine, compote, and jelly from them. You can wilt the fruits. I recommend using ripe, soft, crumbled actinidia berries for wine fermentation and making wine; do not wash them.

Recipes for using actinidia fruits

Actinidia berries, pureed with sugar

“Raw” jam” is the most valuable product of actinidia processing. Do not give your child a lot of this jam (it acts as a mild laxative), it can cause intestinal upset.

Wash hard and slightly soft fruits in two waters and remove the “tails”. Dry them in the shade and let them ripen.

Mash the ripe actinidia fruits with a wooden pestle and add sugar at the rate: for 1 kg of berries - 2 kg of sugar. Package in dark liter sterile jars no more than 3/4 of the volume, or better yet, no more than 0.5 liters (with such a mass, actinidia almost does not ferment, like black currants). Place the jars in a dark, cool place (no higher than 15 degrees). In this form, actinidia can be stored for 2-3 years, while vitamin “C” is completely preserved.

Use actinidia “raw jam”:

• as a component in compotes (actinidia gives drinks a unique taste);
• as a filling for pies, sweets;
• as a cure for constipation (you won’t find a better folk remedy) - take a teaspoon of jam every day;
• as a heart remedy (used similarly to valerian, but has a weaker and milder effect);

Actinidia dried

Dry ripe fruits, peeled from stalks and perianth remains, in an oven or in the oven at a temperature of 50-60 degrees. Dried actinidia berries have a pleasant sour taste, similar to raisins.

Store dried fruits in compressed form, wrapped in cellophane.

Actinidia compote

Wash the fruits, remove the stalks, place them in jars up to the shoulders and pour boiling syrup (250-300 g of sugar per liter of water). At a temperature of 80 degrees, pasteurize: half-liter jars - 10 minutes, liter jars - 15 minutes.

Actinidia fruit wine

Weigh ripe, soft, unwashed berries. In an enamel or porcelain bowl (to avoid oxidation), mash the fruits with a stainless steel spoon or wooden pestle. It is almost impossible to squeeze juice from fresh actinidia berries. Pour water into the container with the fruits - an amount equal to the weight of the berries, stir.

Measure out the sugar - approximately 1.5 kg of sugar per 1 kg of fruit. Such a large amount of sugar is necessary due to the significant content of vitamin C in the berries, otherwise the wine will be sour and quickly spoil.

It is better to add sugar in two steps: add the first part immediately, and the second part on the 4-5th day of vigorous fermentation.

Fill the bottle no more than 2/3 full with a mixture of berries, water and sugar. Place a rubber ball (or a medical glove) over the neck of the bottle and pierce a hole with a needle to remove carbon dioxide.

It is best to make a wine starter from fallen ripe berries 7 days before installing the main amount of wort for fermentation. Grind them and mix with water and a little sugar. Pour the fermented starter into a bottle with the main amount of wort.

Place the bottle in semi-darkness.

After vigorous fermentation, when the pulp stops moving in the bottle, pour the wort into another bottle, pouring it to the very edge. Close the neck with a rubber ball. Quiet fermentation of the wine begins; it lasts a long time - 3-4 months.

When the wine is almost clear, drain it from the sediment using a tube, taste it and add sugar if necessary. Young golden yellow wine from actinidia is light, moderately sweet and slightly bitter.

Pour the wine into clean, sterile bottles as completely as possible and close them tightly. Store it at a temperature of +10-15 degrees until completely clarified.

But it is better to drink this wine after 2-3 years of aging - then the sugar is no longer felt in it, it acquires the unique taste and aroma of a good vintage Muscat wine. The older the wine, the darker and tastier it is, the richer the bouquet.

Actinidia wine is medicinal - it contains a huge amount of vitamin C and healing substances.

Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Belarus)
[email protected]

All about actinidia on the website website
Cooking on the website website

Weekly Free Site Digest website

Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and receive!

The choice of varieties of ornamental plants decorating the landscape of private areas is very large and this makes it much more difficult right choice. In addition to its decorative qualities, I would like to receive benefits from the plant in the form of healthy fruits and berries. Actinidia kolomikta has both. The foliage of the plant is bright and glossy with two-tone coloring. The beautiful flowering will not leave any gardener indifferent, and the fruits have excellent taste and are very beneficial for the human body. Growing actinidia kolomikta is not difficult, you just have to remember and follow some steps. If planting and caring for the plant are correct and timely, then actinidia will delight its owners for a long time.

Description of Actinidia kolomikta

Actinidia kolomikta is a variety climbing vines, winding counterclockwise around pillars and any other objects. The shoots reach 12–14 meters and are 2–5 centimeters thick. The stems are brown, the bark is rough. Young shoots are equipped with light lenticels, with the help of which the plant is fixed to the support.

Leaf Descriptions

The leaves of the plant are quite large and form a thick, powerful crown. Due to its constant rich and bright color, the liana is one of the top ornamental plants that are used for the interior of a plot of land. In the spring, intensive growth of young foliage begins with a bronze-green color on outside. In the second half of June, a white color appears on the tips of the leaves, which reaches the middle of the leaf in a couple of days. Over time, the foliage turns pink, which later becomes a rich crimson color.
IN autumn period actinidia becomes multi-colored and the following tones appear on it: pink, crimson, purple, yellow and brown-red.

Description of colors

The plant blooms for three weeks. The flowers are quite large, up to 1.5 in diameter, with a scent reminiscent of garden jasmine, which becomes more saturated in evening time and before the rain. The flowers are white in color, pollinated by bees and butterflies and are good honey plants.

Description of fruits

Not only decorative qualities attract gardeners in growing actinidia kolomikta. The plant also bears fruit with amazing small berries containing large amounts of vitamin C, and its amount is five times higher than that of currants. The structure of the berries is oblong, 2–3 centimeters long. The density is soft with a weight of 4 to 6 grams. During the ripening process, the color changes, and the berries can acquire dark green, red, yellow. The seeds are small, but in large quantities - up to 90 pieces in one berry.
The plant begins to bear fruit within 5-7 years after planting in a permanent place. The yield ranges from 6 to 8 kilograms of berries per bush.

Reproduction of actinidia kolomikta

This type of plant reproduces in three ways: seeds, cuttings, layering. Propagation by seeds is carried out less frequently due to the fact that in the early stages it is almost impossible to determine which actinidia is male or female. Therefore, very often gardeners propagate the plant using cuttings and layering.

Seeds

To propagate actinidia kolomikta by seeds, you need to follow a step-by-step process:

Cuttings

This is the most reliable and quick way reproduction of actinidia kolomikta.

• Green cuttings are cut in June, at the very moment when berries begin to appear on the bushes. Good annual shoots are selected for cuttings.
• Shoots are cut to a size of 50 - 100 centimeters, divided into cuttings of 10 -15 centimeters. Each cutting should have from 2 to 3 buds.
• An oblique cut is made at the bottom of the cutting just below the bud. At the top, the cut should be smooth and made directly above the kidney.
• The cuttings should not be allowed to dry out. To do this, they are immersed in water immediately after cutting.
• Before planting, the soil is prepared in the greenhouse. The soil should be with the addition of peat, river sand and mineral fertilizers.
• After the soil is well moistened, the prepared cuttings are planted at an angle.
• It is necessary to deepen the cuttings up to the middle bud. It should be level with the ground.
• A special material is used to cover the cuttings. Every day you need to carry out the spraying process 2 to 5 times.
• After a month, the cuttings should take root. At this point, the covering material is removed.
• In winter, the cuttings are insulated with dry leaves, and in early spring they can be planted in a permanent place.

By layering

This method is quite easy and simple.

• It is used in the spring, when the foliage has already unfolded.
• A healthy plant is selected and the lower shoot is selected from it.
• This shoot is buried to the very top.
• To prevent the shoot from sticking out of the ground, you can fix it in the ground with ordinary wire.
• At the rooting site, the soil is well moistened and mulched.
• The soil needs regular watering and constant weed removal.
• On next year in the spring, the rooted plant is separated from the adult bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Such in simple ways you can grow a healthy, strong and fruitful actinidia kolomikta.

Planting actinidia kolomikta

Choosing a landing site

A correctly selected place for actinidia kolomikta will contribute to the healthy and beautiful growth of the plant. Actinidia is equipped with rather short roots, so the best choice there will be a slightly elevated area. Lowland is not suitable for planting the plant, since actinidia does not take root well in places with high humidity.
A good site for planting would be lightly shaded areas. Direct sunlight on the plant can cause the foliage to fade, which will lead to loss of decorativeness.
Do not forget that Actinidia kolomikta is climbing plant, therefore for correct height she needs support. A specially made grid can act as a support. To save time and improve decoration, the plant is planted near ready-made residential or fencing structures, trees, gazebos, benches and other elements of the yard.

Preparing the soil for planting

Before planting, the soil must be analyzed and prepared in advance. Heavily wet areas are not suitable. Actinidia kolomikta takes root very well in fertile loamy soil filled with humus. The soil should be slightly acidic. Excessive acidity is neutralized by liming. The chosen planting site must be dug well. The soil should be loose and airy, so oxygen will best penetrate the soil, as well as directly to the roots of the plant.

Step by step planting process

The process of planting actinidia kolomikta occurs in the spring until the sap begins to flow. But you can also plant this plant outdoors. land plot during the autumn period. Planting takes place no later than two weeks before the first frost. But you need to remember that at such a time it is necessary to plant only young seedlings no more than 3 years old. Planting adult plants in the fall will lead to their death during cold weather and frosts.
Planting actinidia kolomikta is done as follows:

1. A couple of weeks before planting, the soil in the selected area is dug up.
2. Pits are prepared at a distance of 1 - 1.5 meters. The length, width and depth should be 50 centimeters each.
3. In order to relieve the roots of the plant from stagnant moisture, drainage is used in the form broken bricks, small stones or gravel placed in the prepared hole.
4. To saturate the holes, a mixture is prepared, which includes chernozem, humus, mineral fertilizers, do not contain chlorine. All this is mixed and poured into the holes.
5. On the day of planting, the seedlings are carefully examined in the root system area. Dried and broken roots are removed.
6. Seedlings are placed in the hole so that the root collar is at the level of the edge of the ground, and after that the hole is carefully sprinkled with soil.
7. Next, the landing site is carefully compacted by hand. After which the plant needs to be watered abundantly.
8. After watering, the soil around the plant is mulched, and the seedling itself is covered with a paper sheet until the actinidia takes root. Thus, the sun's rays will not harm the young plant.
9. If an area where there are structures was chosen for the plant, then it makes no sense to install additional support. But if selected open areas, then it’s worth building and installing additional support.

Caring for actinidia kolomikta

The longevity and healthy growth of the plant depends on proper care, which includes watering and pruning.

Watering

Watering actinidia kolomikta is done in the evening using a watering hose. If the weather is dry, then it is recommended to moisten the soil around the plant abundantly. If watering is irregular, actinidia may shed its foliage under the influence of heat.

Fertilizer

Feeding determines how well the plant will grow, send out new shoots, and withstand frost. In the spring, the first fertilizer is produced. For one square meter introduced: nitrogen fertilizers - 35 grams, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers - 20 grams each. The second feeding is done when the ovaries form: nitrogen fertilizers - 20 grams, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers - 12 grams each. The third time the plant is fed after harvesting as phosphorus and potash fertilizers 20 grams each.

Trimming

It is prohibited to prune actinidia kolomikta in the spring, as this can lead to the death of the plant. Pruning can only be done in summer or autumn if the plant has reached the age of 3–4 years.

Harvesting

The ability to bear fruit in actinidia kolomikta lasts for 30 to 35 years, but when correct landing in a place favorable for the plant, and with proper care, actinidia can bear fruit for up to 50 years. The fruits do not ripen simultaneously, which makes harvesting quite difficult. The first to reach maturity are the berries that are under the straight lines. sun rays. Ripe berries shed rapidly and to preserve them, you can lay waterproof material on the ground or hang some kind of fabric. Harvest must be stored in a cool place.
Actinidia kolomikta varieties are very hardy, unpretentious and undemanding in care. In addition to being decorative, the plant produces a healthy harvest. Therefore, this culture deserves a lot of attention among gardeners and lovers of beautiful landscape design.

“... in the future (it) will completely displace both grapes and gooseberries from our gardens, because the taste qualities of the berries of various varieties of actinidia are so good and varied that when compared with the berries of not only gooseberries, but also grapes, they turn out to be of higher quality, not not to mention the wonderful aromaticity that there is nothing to look for in grapes, and especially gooseberries.”

I.V. Michurin

I live in the city of Lida, in Belarus. Recently, on the pages of our magazines, a lot of attention has been paid to plants that are promising for cultivation on the territory of the Republic of Belarus. One of them is actinidia. It would seem that this is a new thing. But at the same time, it is reliably known that traces of the genus Actinidia were found in lignite deposits in the south of Belarus, which means that Actinidia, an endemic to the Primorye region, is simply returning to its ancestral home. At the same time, in publications all attention is paid to the description of only one species of actinidia - Actinidia Kolomikta, which, indeed, can be grown throughout the entire territory of our republic. This actinidia can withstand temperatures down to -35°C, and in terms of vitamin C content it is second only to rose hips - it contains from 0.5 to 1.7%, but it also has a number of disadvantages:

• its berries are small and non-transportable, so local processing is necessary;
• it has a low yield; in fact, a ten-year-old bush produces up to 1.5 kg of berries;
• The ripening of the crop is not simultaneous; after ripening, the fruits fall off and quickly deteriorate, although they ripen without losing their qualities if they are picked prematurely 3-7 days before full ripeness.

But at the same time, now in most of the territory of Belarus, in particular, in the territory of the Grodno and Minsk regions, and even more so in the territory of Brest and Gomel, other types of actinidia and their hybrids grow with great success, which produce fruits that are amazing in taste, in which a large amount of vitamin C - 0.1-0.12%, they contain potassium, calcium, sulfur, chlorine, iron, as well as zinc, selenium, bromine, copper. Chemical composition Actinidia fruits indicate that they are a source of biologically active substances and have medicinal properties. The aerial part, especially its leaf mass, is also a source useful substances, since it contains a significant amount of ascorbic acid, saponins, alkaloids, flavonoids, coumarins, therefore, it can be used as a source of vitamin supplements, creating various teas and herbal remedies. Particularly promising in this regard is actinidia polygam, which is already used in Japan in many medicines. Research has proven that the leaf mass of female plants accumulates more biologically active substances than male plants.

Features of culture

Actinidia- a vine that grows mass very quickly and can be used as ornamental plant For vertical gardening, and the variegated foliage of some of its species decorates the garden even more. By the way, variegation appears in Actinidia Kolomikta and Actinidia Polygam. Two weeks before flowering, white tips appear on some of their leaves, and then they turn crimson. And this manifests itself in both female and male plants. After flowering ends, the leaves of these actinidia turn green again. This phenomenon is also observed on hybrid plants that are grown by crossing Actinidia Arguta and Actinidia Purple. Actinidia is a dioecious plant, although there are cases when fruits are set in the presence of only female plants. Theoretically, up to 1% of plants grown from seed can be monoecious, and a good monoecious plant is of great value for creating self-fertile varieties of actinidia.

Actinidia has one interesting feature - it does not have physiological fruit drop; all fruits that are pollinated grow until ripening. The growth of actinidia shoots begins at the end of April or at the beginning of May at an average daily temperature of +4...+5°C, when a green cone of folded leaves appears from a bud hidden under the bark of the plant. At this time, return frosts are very dangerous for the plant. Flowering of actinidia species occurs in different periods - first, around the end of May, Kolomikta blooms, after 12-15 days, when it has already set fruit, Arguta and Purple bloom, and then, after 5-7 days, Polygamy blooms, so there is cross-pollination between species Actinidia plants do not occur. Actinidia vines have very long wood vessels, and the shoots themselves have almost endless growth, hence the large increase in vegetative shoots. For example, in actinidia Argut it reaches 4-6 m, while the tip of the vegetative shoot is in constant circular motion. If there is support, the tip of the shoot wraps around it in a counterclockwise direction.

The fruiting actinidia plant has three types of shoots:

• vegetative – grow from dormant buds on perennial wood or from the root system, performing a supporting function;
• generative - perform the function of fruiting and are formed on an annual branch, have a length of 10-15 cm;
• generative-vegetative - perform both a supporting function and a fruiting function; they are formed on the growth of the previous year.

Therefore, when planting actinidia in a permanent place, it is necessary to provide appropriate space for plant growth and place them no closer than 3-3.5 m from each other (for actinidia Kolomikta, 2.5-3 m can be left).

Timing of flowering and fruit ripening

It should be noted that not all the buds of the plant bloom at the same time; about one third of the buds remain dormant, which ensures annual fruiting of the plants even if previously blooming buds or young branches are damaged by late spring frosts. Male plants begin their development and flowering 1-2 days earlier than female ones. Flower buds are formed in the axils of leaves on young shoots current year, and, consequently, fruiting occurs on the shoots of the current year.

If you would like to receive information about actinidia and its breeding, please call in Belarus (Lida): (8-10-375) 01561-574-56, mob. tel.: 00375-444814998, email: [email protected]- Viktor Ivanovich Guzenko.

To be continued

Victor Guzenko, experienced gardener, Lida
Photo by the author