11.05.2016 49 836

How to plant an apple tree in the garden?

If you know how to plant an apple tree, healthy trees and delicious fruits will soon become the inhabitants of your garden. Proper planting gives the plant a new lease of life, allowing it to take root well and develop in the future. Common mistakes that gardeners often make when planting apple trees sometimes lead to irreversible consequences, and by studying the intricacies and technology, you can avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Time and timing of planting apple trees

When is it better to plant apple trees, in spring or autumn, taking into account the cultivation zone and climatic conditions? Gardeners have different opinions, but experienced agronomists still advise focusing on the growing region and the plant's dormant period (before the buds swell - in the spring and the leaves fall, in the fall).

In the Astrakhan, Volgograd, Rostov regions, Kuban and the Republic of Adygea, it is advisable to plant apple tree seedlings in the fall, 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost. The approximate deadline falls at the end of September, continues until the last days of October, in some cases, covering the first week of November. Young apple trees have excellent time to take root in the ground and gain strength for wintering.

In the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Irkutsk, Murmansk, Tyumen, etc.), as well as in the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to plant an apple tree in the spring. This is due to the early arrival of frosts; often the planted young animals die just from the autumn planting; the unpredictability of nature and sudden changes in temperature are factors that cannot be influenced. In early spring, as soon as upper layer When the soil thaws a little, start planting seedlings while the plant is dormant.

in the photo - planting an apple tree with a closed root system

In the Central part of Russia (Bryansk, Vladimir, Ivanovo, Ryazan, Smolensk, Tula regions), Moscow region and Leningrad region, apple trees can be planted both in spring and autumn, taking into account weather conditions. It is not always possible to plant young trees on time; it is not possible to plant in the spring; do it in the fall, not forgetting about the dormant period of the seedlings.

How to choose apple tree seedlings?

If you decide to plant apple trees in the garden, then choose the variety with all responsibility. If you receive tree seedlings as a gift from your neighbors in the country, then you don’t need to worry too much. But what to do when you have to buy apple trees, then you need to resort to simple and practical rules:

• Choose only zoned varieties of apple trees suitable for growing in your region. The best place to shop, of course, is a nursery or gardening center. Avoid spontaneous markets and dubious points of sale, otherwise there is a high risk of buying poor quality material and waste money;
• When choosing a variety, pay attention to the fruiting time. Summer apples ripen around August and have a short shelf life (Lungwort, Belyi naliv, Grushevka). Autumn varieties ripen with the arrival of September and are stored for a longer period (Melba, Borovinka, Korean). Winter varieties of apple trees ripen at a later date and are stored for up to six months or more (Dekosta, Moskovskoye Zimneye, Bogatyr, Antonovka);

in the photo - sale of annual apple tree seedlings in the nursery in the photo - apple tree seedlings, large ones

• When making a purchase, consider the degree of occurrence groundwater Location on. Vigorous trees (up to 7-8 meters) can be planted if the groundwater level is more than 3 meters, semi-dwarf apple trees - 2.5 meters, dwarf - 1.5 meters. Contact of the root system of a fruit tree with groundwater leads to the development of diseases, decreased yield, and deterioration of protective properties;
• The best age for seedlings to plant is 1-2 years; young trees take root much better. Annual apple trees do not have developed branches; biennial apple trees have 2-3 branches growing at an angle of 45-90 degrees;
• When purchasing, carefully inspect the plants; apple tree seedlings with an open root system must have healthy roots, white When cut, rotten and frozen roots will be gray in color. The roots should not be overdried and less than 30 centimeters long. Various types of swelling and irregularities on the roots may indicate diseases;
• A healthy stem should not have various growths; if you scrape the bark a little, you can see a bright green color, otherwise the planting material is of poor quality.

Apple tree planting rules

Regardless of the time of year, the basic principles used by gardeners when planting apple trees remain the same. Based on the experience of experienced agronomists and the recommendations of agronomists, planting can be done easily, without damaging the plant:

Selecting a location under an apple tree should be carried out taking into account the composition of the soil, good lighting, the absence of large trees nearby, and the level of groundwater (at least 1.5 meters). The main requirements for the soil are looseness, fertility, neutral soil reaction;

in the photo - spring planting of an apple tree

Preparing the planting hole according to the advice of agronomists, it should be done 10-14 days before the proposed planting of trees, the approximate diameter of which is 90-100 centimeters, depth - 0.6-0.7 meters;

The pit is filled with nutrient soil, consisting of fertile topsoil, humus, peat, rotted manure, . It is desirable to have all the components, but if you don’t have them, you can take any of the available ones and mix them with fertile soil. When grown on clay soils, sand is added. Afterwards it is watered generously;

Application mineral fertilizers . Opinions and reviews from scientists, agronomists, and experienced gardeners about the need to use mineral complexes when planting apple trees are different, but most advise against using them. Aggressive environment, formed with an abundance of chemical elements, has a detrimental effect on the root system of apple seedlings. In case of emergency, superphosphate is placed at the very bottom of the pit;

Over time, the soil mixture will settle, you can start planting. A hole is dug according to the size of the root system of the apple tree, a peg is placed in it, then a seedling. The root collar of planted young trees should be 4-5 centimeters higher from the soil level; the ground around them should be well trampled down. The tree must be tied to a peg; a simple rule will protect the young roots from being blown up by gusts of wind;

After landing, Apple trees are watered abundantly, spending at least 3-4 buckets of water per plant. Then the soil around the trunk is mulched with a small layer of peat chips or humus;

The distance between apple trees when planting is maintained at 4-4.5 meters for vigorous varieties, the rows are made at least 5-6 meters wide. Weak apple trees are planted at a distance of 3.5 meters, dwarf and semi-dwarf, low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 2.5-3 meters.

Every gardener strives to grow beautiful, plump, sweet apples on his plot. The technology for planting these trees is quite simple and feasible for anyone. The survival and further development of seedlings depends on compliance with a few simple rules and recommendations.

Requirements for a site for planting apple trees

Before you start populating your site with young plantings, you need to make sure that it meets the following requirements.

• Bright lighting promotes fruiting. Shading of young seedlings by those present nearby big trees leads to deviations in development, reduction in the quantity and quality of fruits.
• A site protected from strong winds and at the same time well ventilated.
• The land must be fertile, enriched with useful substances.

If you plan to plant several seedlings, then this should be done in one place, without alternating them with other plantings. This promotes good pollination and abundant fruiting. It is also more convenient to combat diseases and pests with compact placement of plants.

When to plant apple trees

The best adaptation to new conditions is observed during the period when sap flow stops and the plant goes into sleep. Trees enter this state after the end of the growing season (September - October) and remain in it until the buds awaken. Therefore, it is best to plant seedlings in the spring and autumn.

In winter, trees are generally in a state of complete dormancy. However, they cannot be planted this season, since young roots die when they get into frozen soil. Winter planting technology is used only occasionally in certain regions and only for large, mature trees.

When is it better to plant an apple tree, in spring or autumn, is a controversial question and in most cases depends on the characteristics of a particular climatic zone. In regions where sharp drops in temperature are observed as early as the end of October, it is best to carry out this procedure in the spring (April - May). This will prevent the risk of the root system freezing. In warmer zones, it is recommended to plant seedlings in mid-autumn.

Preparing the land for planting an apple tree

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the soil for the young plant. The soil from the dug hole should be placed in one pile and not scattered throughout the area. The width and depth of the hole should be slightly larger than the root system of the apple tree . The bottom and walls of the hole should be slightly fluffed.

In areas with a thin layer of black soil, the soil should be divided into two parts, and when burying seedlings, the same sequence should be followed.

The dug up soil is mixed with humus and (700-800 g). If the soil is severely depleted, you can add a little complex mineral fertilizers, such as nitroammophoska. At the bottom of the recess it is recommended to put some metal object(hammer reinforcement, angle, channel, nails, etc.). This will provide the plantings with the necessary iron.

How to plant an apple tree correctly

Before planting, you should use pruning shears to trim off the tips of the root system, the top of the trunk and the branches of the seedling. It is most convenient to carry out further procedures together. Having placed the plant in the hole in a vertical position, one person should hold it by the trunk, and the other should fill the root system with prepared soil. It is important to monitor the direction of its branches - they should be directed downward or in a horizontal position. Otherwise, incorrect further formation of the root system may occur, which will lead to a lack of nutrients.

The seedling should be filled in such a way that the root collar of the plant is 3-5 cm above ground level. Failure to comply with this rule will negatively affect the further development of the tree.

After filling the roots, you should generously fill the hole with water. After the soil settles, it is necessary to add it again to the desired level, and then fill it again. Water (by suction) compacts the loosened soil. Many gardeners prefer to trample the soil with their feet, which is not correct and can lead to damage to the root system. The next day after planting, cracks will appear around the entire circumference of the hole that need to be loosened.

When performing work in the spring, the first time the planting needs to be watered every two to three days (depending on weather conditions). If color forms on the trees after spring replanting, it should be cut off to allow the trees to properly strengthen.

Planting apple trees in the fall does not require further work, since sap flow stops during this period, and an abundance of moisture can only do harm (especially on the eve of approaching frost).

When replanting a seedling, it is advisable to note and exactly repeat the geographic direction of its trunk in relation to any of the poles (south/north).

Planting an apple tree in summer is very rare. Most often, this is a forced measure to move a plant from one place to another. Even with careful soil preparation and plentiful care, the survival rate of trees during the active growing season is very low. You can plant an apple tree in summer only if the root system is closed.

In order to protect the seedlings from the effects of strong winds, you can drive a small rod near them (at a distance of 20-30 cm) and tie the trunk to it.

Distance between apple trees when planting

In pursuit of a high yield, many gardeners strive to plant as much as possible on their plot. a large number of fruit trees. However, dense placement usually leads to the following consequences:

• Decrease in total harvest volume
• Deterioration in fruit quality
• Damage to leaves and shoots by fungal diseases
• Pest population stimulation

When forming a garden, it is important to strictly adhere to a specific planting pattern, which depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The maximum dimensions (width and height) that adult plants can reach should be taken into account. The optimal planting pattern for low-growing varieties on a dwarf rootstock is considered to be 2.5x4 m. Apple trees grafted on a wild rootstock are recommended to be placed according to a pattern of 3.5x5 m. The distance between tall trees should be at least 4.5 m.

Completely different planting schemes are adopted for new species of these trees. (the shape of the crown is similar to poplar, cypress, etc.) can be planted thicker than the usual, classic varieties. Dwarf plantings do not require much space either.

Placing seedlings in a checkerboard pattern will slightly increase their number on the site. However, such a scheme will significantly complicate maintenance (especially when using motorized equipment).

Video about planting an apple tree

Almost every farmer can boast of an apple orchard. This tree is easy to care for and delights with tasty and juicy fruits, which is why many gardeners give it preference. In this article we will answer the question of where to plant an apple tree and how to properly prepare the soil so that the fruit tree will delight you with an excellent harvest for many years.

How to choose a place to plant different varieties

There are some general principles, according to which you need to choose a place to plant this plant. Of course, depending on different varieties, conditions may vary slightly, but the key points remain the same.

The optimal place to plant a tree is in an open area, preferably on a hill. The soil must be loose to provide the plant's root system with sufficient water permeability and breathability. In addition, the plant does not tolerate proximity to groundwater - excess moisture can lead to rotting of the tree roots. Of course, if this cannot be avoided, the solution may be drainage, through which excess water will be removed.

The spacing between trees may vary depending on the variety. For example, if the apple trees are short, then a distance of 1.5–2 m will be sufficient for optimal conditions. In the case where the trees are significant in size, a larger plot may be needed to provide a distance of up to 5 m. Also, apple trees of different varieties suitable for mutual pollination should be planted on the plot.

In addition, it is worth protecting the plants from strong winds. To do this, you can plant sea buckthorn or rowan on the northern border of the site.

Now let's talk in more detail about how to choose a place to plant different varieties of apple trees.

Winter

Winter varieties are quite popular among gardeners. This is explained by the fact that they are able to withstand even the most very coldy. In addition, their fruits can be stored for a very long time, and they acquire their main taste qualities after a certain time after storage.

But precisely because of these characteristics they require great amount heat. This means that the soil on which they grow must be well fertilized (more fertilizing is required than summer varieties), and cultivated varieties should not be observed near the plant. That is, their soil must be as nutritious as possible in order to ensure energy conservation.

Summer

These are apple trees with a short shelf life of fruits and, moreover, are absolutely not resistant to low temperatures and cold weather. Therefore, it is recommended to plant them in more or less warm regions (the middle and southern zones are suitable), where frosts are not too severe. In addition, they do not like cold winds, so it is worth providing the plants with proper protection. It is also worth noting that it is best to choose a place to plant a tree where there will be a lot of sunlight, because summer varieties absolutely need it.

Autumn

Autumn varieties are characterized by average frost resistance and relatively long shelf life of fruits.

In order for this apple tree to take root on the site, it is necessary to choose a well-lit area. In addition, you should ensure that the plant avoids drafts and sudden changes in temperature, and if the location of the tree itself does not allow this, you need to provide it with proper protection on your own. In addition, it is not recommended to fertilize the soil too often; rare fertilizing is enough for the plant.

How to prepare the soil

In order for the soil to be quite good, it should be prepared several weeks before planting. This is done so that it is saturated with useful substances and, by the time of planting, the soil has settled sufficiently. What fertilizers are best to choose?

The hole should be a meter in diameter and up to 80 cm deep. It is necessary to mix the fertile and infertile layers of soil, adding fertilizers (humus, ash, superphosphates and potassium sulfate). The hole is filled to the top, and a small mound of earth should be left on top so that the seedling does not end up in the funnel after some time.

After the soil has settled, you can carefully plant apple tree seedlings on the site.

After we have answered the questions about how to choose a place to plant this plant, we will consider some of the nuances associated with growing apple trees.

If the tree is planted in soil in which the clay content is quite high, you need to deepen the hole and lay a layer of drainage on the bottom using wood trimmings or stones. Thus, the plant will have additional reserves of oxygen, which will last for many years. If, on the contrary, the soil is sandy, you need to lay a layer of clay to retain moisture at the very roots.

Remember that actively growing apple trees are among the most tall trees in the garden, so it is recommended to plant it in the northwestern corner of the site so that it does not shade other plants.

A popular question among novice gardeners is whether it is possible to plant a new apple tree in the place of the old one. Many farmers agree that this should not be done. There will not be enough nutrients left in the place where the old apple tree grows, but root diseases and pests (if any) will migrate to the new seedling.

Therefore, it is recommended to look for another place where you could plant a tree and thereby avoid possible problems. Some, however, have found an alternative - they plant a stone fruit representative (for example, a cherry) in the chosen place. But, in any case, you need to look for a new place on the site for a young apple tree.

And finally, we note that with optimal fit The plants are best handled by two people. After all, when a seedling is placed in the ground, its roots should be straightened. So, one person will work on the root system, while the second will gradually cover it with soil, at the same time compacting the soil well. This way the result will be most effective, and the roots of the tree will remain safe and sound. Now you know where the apple tree grows best.

Video “Instructions for planting an apple tree”

From this video you will learn how to plant apple trees correctly.

Almost all people like apples. But in any case, getting their harvest yourself is more pleasant than purchasing a product of unknown quality in a store. You just need to know exactly the basic techniques and points in order to be guaranteed to eliminate mistakes in this matter.

Description of culture

The apple tree is a tree or shrub from the Rosaceae family, growing abundantly in temperate latitudes and subtropics. The height of the plant can reach 10 m. In this case, the apple tree is covered with dark gray bark. Its foliage is green, its length reaches 0.1 m, and the geometry of the leaf is close to an oblong egg. Apple flowers have a distinctive aroma.

Judging by the description, they are characterized by pink, white or slightly red tones. Flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences, the diameter of each flower can reach 40 mm. The apple tree blooms in the last month of spring; under favorable conditions, the tree can even be completely covered with flowers. The size, tone and geometry of the fruit are largely determined by the variety and type. It is customary to distinguish between fruit and decorative types of apple trees.

Their height allows us to introduce a classification into:

• highly developed;
• weakly growing;
• partially dwarf;
• miniature group.

There is a wide variety of external crown configurations. It can be spreading and weeping, compressed and in the form of a column. The latter type attracts the attention of farmers with its unusualness: there is a main trunk and branches that extend upward. The columnar apple tree consumes a minimum of space in the garden, and its maximum growth is limited to 3 m. But the popularity of such a crop is limited by its susceptibility to freezing: frost-damaged plants, even when they survive, cannot bear fruit.

The so-called home apple tree is the collective name for varieties and hybrids grown in gardens. Its growing season covers April-November. Berry, also known as the Siberian apple tree, forms a slowly developing tree 5-10 m tall. It is characterized by a rounded crown and dense foliage. The plant blooms beautifully, people also like it when it produces fruit.

The apples on the Siberian variety of apple tree do not exceed 10 cm in diameter and are colored yellow or red. The fruits are different round shape, they grow on elongated stalks. Frost resistance is very high, which allows the plant to be grown in harsh conditions and used as a rootstock in the northern regions of the country. But the plum-leaved apple tree, also known as the “Chinese” apple tree, is distinguished by not just a round, but also a very large crown.

In the spring, white or slightly pink flowers, the diameter of which sometimes reaches 30 mm.

The attractiveness of the plant is due to its resistance to:

• winter conditions;
• dry periods;
• many diseases.

"Chinese" suffers little from pruning. The apples on it do not exceed 3 cm; there are fruits with red and yellow skin. But the forest, or wild, apple tree stands out for its rapid growth (it can rise up to 15 m). Interestingly, shrubs are sometimes included in this group. On one plant there are either white or pink flowers; they do not grow together. The fruits of wild apple trees are sour, but one of the subspecies, the paradise apple tree, is well suited for grafting onto cultivated dwarf varieties.

The purple hybrid stands out for its charm and reddish leaves. The tree's growth does not exceed 5 m. Decorative qualities caused by both flowers and fruits. Winter resistance is satisfactory for most regions of Russia.

The Niedzwiecki apple tree will be of interest to those gardeners who want to get a quickly developing garden that is not susceptible to infections and pest aggression.

Variety selection

Familiarization with the types of apple trees is not enough to make an informed decision. It is also necessary to correctly assess which variety is needed in a particular area. Until relatively recently, the undisputed leader was "Idared". But even today, when there are both tastier and more practical varieties of apple trees, many summer residents remain committed to it. The taste of the fruit is transitional from sour to sweet; apples weighing from 0.1 to 0.3 kg are found; a serious problem is low winter resistance.

In terms of keeping quality and portability, an apple would be an excellent contender for a place in the garden. "Berkutovskoe". It is valued on industrial plantations, especially in the southern regions. Winter resistance is average, but resistance to desiccation will please farmers. The sweetness of the fruits and average height the tree itself.

And here is the variety "Bolotovskoe" produces tall, up to 10 m, trees, zoned in central Russia. A peculiarity of this variety can be considered the unusual green flesh. Although sour notes are clearly felt in the taste, it can hardly be called unpleasant, since the proportion of acids is small. You can save “Bolotovsky” apples until the end of January.

Of the new varieties, it is worth taking a closer look at such an achievement of 21st century breeders as the variety "Venyaminovsky", scab resistant. It is this circumstance that largely helps him gain more and more space.

"Imrus", or “Russian immunity”, is able to survive even the most severe frosts, is characterized by medium height and a sweet and sour taste.

You could spend hours listing these or those varieties, but the variety that stands out among them is "For a long time", which many experts even consider the world leader in taste. In addition, this apple tree produces powerful harvests and is not too whimsical. Although the variety belongs to the group "Chinese", it was developed in the USA. The fruits ripen in early autumn and attract attention with a strong aroma. A tree hung with apples looks incomparable even against the backdrop of the most decorative species.

Pollination requires the participation of insects. The apple tree itself is able to attract them, without the efforts of gardeners. But for this you will need to plant the plants separately so that bees and other winged creatures do not get lost. Moreover, hiding such beauty behind other plantings is simply stupid. The trees reach a height of 4 m, while being relatively small in width. The round, wide crown with dark green shoots looks attractive from spring to autumn.

The bulk of the branches without bends is directed upward. When the fruit ripening season arrives, it is difficult to notice the branches themselves under a layer of apples held by shortened stalks. The leaf itself can easily be confused with one growing on a plum tree. The fruits are covered with a smooth peel and are not too large (average weight - 0.02 kg). There are both spherical apples and “cones”.

When is the best time to plant?

It should be noted to begin with that winter planting apple trees in Russia rarely brings good results. Much more often you can encounter plants freezing. Most gardeners don't start until mid-April. Planting in the spring, if everything is taken into account and done correctly, allows us to hope for a thorough development of the plant by the coming winter.

As for summer planting, it is only permissible, but it is still better to avoid this practice. Risky gardeners are forced to water seedlings abundantly in the heat, and at the same time it is extremely difficult to maintain the line beyond which the roots begin to rot. If you still decide to plant in the summer, you should select only specially designed varieties. Summer planting is sometimes recommended in Siberia to optimize preparations for winter. But such a measure immediately imposes on gardeners the obligation to think through everything and take into account the course of physiological processes.

The optimal time for planting comes in the fall, or more precisely, in September and the first part of October. It is then that the bark of apple trees is completely ready for the cold season.

Note: autumn planting best result gives in the south. But even there it is recommended to choose areas saturated with black soil. This is even more important in the central and northern parts of Russia.

Landing

To properly plant an apple tree, you need to dig holes where there is clay soil. Improving substances are added to these pits - peat, humus or washed river sand. The excavation is dug approximately 0.8 m deep, its diameter is from 1 m. The shells left over from the walnuts are laid out at the base. But if collecting so many shells is quite problematic, then finding the required number of unnecessary cans is much easier.

Such layers should not be mixed, but their purpose is the same - to strengthen the hole.

• potassium sulfate;
• wood ash;
• superphosphate.

A step-by-step guide in any specialized publication notes that the middle of the pit should be equipped with a stake. After its insertion, the recess is filled ½ in height with earth. Only after this the seedlings are planted. The trunks of the plants are supported on stakes installed in advance. It should be noted that it is extremely difficult to do this work alone, so hiring a partner is completely justified.

All instructions note that it is best to plant apple trees against the background of the natural “sleep” of the seedling. This allows us to exclude the onset of active development of the vegetative system. In the Moscow region, it is customary to plant apple trees in the autumn months. But regardless of the specific moment, Moscow gardeners must take into account that groundwater, even if its level is not very high by local standards, is still located 1.5 m below the surface. Probable Negative consequences are stopped by preliminary compaction of the lower layers by backfilling the soil.

In most of Russia, buying seedlings at fairs and exhibition sites is irrational. Majority seed material They are brought there from the southern regions; when winter comes, they quickly freeze out. It is much more practical to head to the nursery in your area.

But even there you should be vigilant: it is very good if the seedling is not only shown, but also dug up immediately in the presence of the buyer.

Getting acquainted with the advice of experienced gardeners, it is worth noting this point: where the soil is poor (represented by a mixture of sand and crushed stone, composed of loam or peat), it is necessary to add an increased amount of fertilizer. Regardless of the type of soil, very important point turns out to be a careful selection of the distance between individual trees. It necessarily adapts to the climatic conditions of a particular place, to the size of the garden and the seedlings themselves. Bush dwarf apple trees are planted with a gap of 4.3 m from one row to another with a distance between individual plants of 2.7 m. This scheme is used in small gardens, and in larger areas they use row planting on trellises with gaps of 4.5 and 2.1 m respectively.

Bush trees are simply planted in accordance with how many rows are planned to be made. When one line is formed, there should be at least 1 m between the apple trees free space, and the rows are separated by exactly 3 m of empty land. Another option involves planting dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees in the form of “lines” every 2.5 m, with the gaps filled with other crops. It will be easiest for gardeners who have developed a clear planting plan in advance. But even in this case, the greatest permissible proximity between apple trees is 1 m.

Sometimes planting in a checkerboard pattern is practiced, in which two garden fragments parallel to each row are slightly shifted. This solution allows you to make the most of the entire available territory. According to professionals, with this method of planting, dwarf plants should remain 1.5 m between dwarf apple trees within the same row. For semi-dwarf varieties, this distance increases to 3-3.75 m, and for large plants – up to 5 m. Checkerboard formation It is also recommended for palmetto rows created on supports, with row spacing being 4 m and distances between individual trees being 2 m.

If it is known in advance that it will be extremely difficult to organize garden care or it will be completely absent for a long time, a chess formation is excluded. It will lead to the accelerated transformation of a pretty area into an ugly, chaotic forest.

The single-row system (chain) is practiced:

• when forming alleys of fruit trees;
• when creating fruit walls near high fences or natural obstacles;
• in a small area;
• to delimit the space of the dacha into separate segments.

A closed root complex allows plants to be planted in any phase of the growing season, but for apple trees that were under a roof or canopy, immediate planting is detrimental. For at least 3-4 days after unloading from the car, they should be left where the sun's rays will touch the foliage for several hours a day. A common mistake is to plant seedlings that previously lived at strictly positive air temperatures in a garden that is still subject to fluctuations in night and day temperatures. At the initial stage, it is recommended to choose moments for planting when the sky is shrouded in clouds or when the sun is already low above the horizon and the shadows are lengthening. And even in this case, it is worth shading the plantings.

When the weather is hot, seedlings with open or closed root systems suffer equally. If the heat comes suddenly when the apple tree is already planted, removing it back into the container is pointless. It is better to spend a few minutes spraying with water in the early and late hours of the day. The hole should be kept wet at all times.

Usually, a seedling planted in one way or another develops into a full-fledged tree, which pleases farmers for the entire prescribed period and showers them with fruits. But sometimes, for some reason, apple trees break. Either the winds cleared up, or some carelessness occurred, and sometimes this happens to plants whose resource is far from exhausted. You can save the situation if you grow the apple tree from a branch again.

If it is known in advance that the selected plants are distinguished by active growth, it is worth placing them every 6 m. Rows are abandoned in cases where they are capable of blocking the insolation of the entire area or most of it. In addition to the distance between the apple trees themselves, it is also necessary to take into account the optimal gaps to other plants. Otherwise, harm is caused to all interacting cultures.

• pear planted on a weakly growing rootstock - 4-5;
• pear growing intensively – 9;
• large tree cherry – 6;
• bush cherry – 3.5;
• plum with compacted planting from a dwarf or columnar apple tree - 3.5 (for all other types of apple trees - 4.5);
• large plum – 6-8;
• currants – 1.25-3 m (depending on the growth of the apple tree);
• coniferous trees – 8-12 m ( biological species doesn't matter).

It happens that an apple tree is found in the same garden with birch trees. For common species For plants, the gap is left at 4-5 m, but for seed plants it is doubled. It is possible to create an apple orchard, in which there are also potatoes and other vegetables, the distance for them is 100-150 cm. When they try to decorate the territory of the site with lilacs, this is always commendable. But for dwarf apple trees a distance of 4 m is required, and for large trees, especially if the bush itself is large, the distance is increased to 6 m.

In a number of gardens it is necessary to plant an apple tree together with raspberries. With the usual low growth of these crops, the gap is 2-2.5 m; for a remontant variety of shrub, a distance of 400 cm from tall trees is required. There is no information about the distance to barberry in the specialized literature, because this is the primary enemy of the apple tree, therefore, this should be completely excluded neighborhood. When organizing a full-fledged rose garden, the gap is made at 5-7 m. And when you just need to put 1-2 bushes to decorate the place, you can reduce the distance to 4 m.

But on garden plot There are both various plants and “non-living” parts. When planting apple trees, it is worth considering the gaps before them.

In doing so, you should consider points such as:

• the threat of walls and fences collapsing with roots;
• interference with the repair of pipelines and massive structures;
• difficulties in extinguishing fires and eliminating other emergency situations;
• objective interests of the owners of neighboring land.

So, if you plant tall trees on the site, then at least 4 m from the fence. But for dwarfs, the distance is reduced to 1 m. In order for the home to always be cozy and safe and so that the roots do not cling to the foundation, weakening it, low apple trees need to be moved back by 4 m, tall ones by all 8 m. But in any city or suburban area There is not only the main house, but also a small one. Minimum distance in this case is 2 m, and for all containers that are not sealed - from 4 to 6 m.

To care for an apple tree and other plantings, you need tools and other equipment stored in a barn or utility room. And the safety of such structures is guaranteed by an interval of 1 m for dwarf rocks in the absence of a foundation and 3 m for any plants if the foundation is organized. Gardeners will make a blunder if they decide that this is where all the subtleties of planting end. While strictly observing the prescribed plants, it is also important to pay attention to the peculiarities of cultivating apple trees with a closed root system.

There is nothing supernatural about a closed root complex: if a plant grows in a container or plastic tank from the first hour of its life, it already belongs to this group.

By pulling out a seedling and placing it in a hole, gardeners do not risk damaging the feeding parts. Unless you try to deliberately soak the planting material, of course. But what you will have to give up is digging up the plant, because such a step immediately makes all the effort expended meaningless.

But a lot also depends on what kind of variety lives in specific place. The physiology of apple trees is bizarre; agricultural technology can change the course of life processes in them only in individual cases. Cuttings from branches are thrown out only by shallowly germinating roots. Therefore, they will have to be planted strictly where other apple trees cannot reach. And we must also remember that the growth of roots near the surface increases the risk of exposure to frost and dry summers.

Another point worth mentioning in connection with planting apple trees is how to replant them. Such manipulation turns out to be necessary in the most different cases. For example, when there is an urgent need to free up space within a crop rotation, and there are no other opportunities to do this. Or when a tree is squeezed, it needs more space like air. Responsible gardeners in such an environment completely forget about their convenience; the main thing for them is to reduce the stress of the transplanted apple tree.

The depth of planting at a new location is determined by general rules. But the recommendations for working time are clear: it is best to take it up either in the spring, before the buds break, or when the last leaves fly around.

Note: foliage, when urgent transplantation is required, is cut off by hand. Then a specific moment within the growing season loses its significance. As usual, to perform this work, it is recommended to wait for the accumulation of rain clouds in the sky.

Transplanting in spring is definitely preferable to autumn if:

• the soil is poor in nutrients;
• the cold came too early;
• there is no complete confidence in the health of the plant.

When replanting an apple tree in the fall, you should hurry: it must take root before the cold weather begins. A new site is chosen on illuminated open places and make sure that there are no interferences. The distances are the same as always. But the planting excavation should be 50% larger than the root complex. Excess acidity is corrected by adding slaked lime.

Care

For an apple orchard to give only serene happiness and pleasure, it is not enough just to plant the apple trees properly. We will have to put in a lot of effort in the future. And yet, you can grow and force any fruit tree to bear fruit with “little blood” if you pay attention to the accumulated experience.

Standard points when caring for apple plantations will be:

• maintaining decent land quality;
• moisture replenishment;
• cutting off excess and diseased parts;
• prevention of frost destruction of branches;
• repelling rodent attacks;
• weed suppression;
• insect repellent;
• extinguishing infections.

They begin to care for a young tree in the first year of cultivation, taking care to bring it out of hibernation as quickly as possible. In the summer, after flowering, it’s time to feed the plants to keep them in good shape. This is the only way to keep greatest number ovaries. When the shortening of daylight hours is complemented by a decrease in the average daily temperature, they begin to prepare for wintering. There are obvious differences when working on old apple tree plantings.

“Old age” is not measured by decrepitude; For the convenience of gardeners, this group includes all plants that are already grateful for their previous efforts with fruits.

At this stage there are three main areas of work:

• maintaining the growth of young shoots;
• maintaining regularity of harvest;
• ensuring a decent level of harvested fruit.

Apple trees are allowed to be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers; microbiological compositions are also recommended. When abundant fruiting occurs, the natural strength of the trees is not enough to support the load. Then it is up to farmers to ensure timely and complete preparation of supports. In the event of a break in a branch, without which the normal proportion in the crown will be preserved, a “ring” cut is made, with the area cleaned, carefully leveled and painted over. Thick branches, the absence of which would have a detrimental effect on the tree, are put back and tried to take root.

Considering the constant danger of winter frosts, before the start of the cold season, plantings should be saturated with moisture. You should also have time at this time to heal any small wounds, and especially hollows. Another important aspect is precise cutting.

Concerning mechanical defects, the requirement is always the same - they must be eliminated as soon as possible. Having accidentally stripped the bark off an apple tree (or having seen that hares have done it, for example), responsible gardeners immediately rush to prepare and apply garden varnish. This prescription is even more relevant when serious deformation is noticed, reaching the deeper layers of the tree. Imagine yourself personally suffering a similar injury, and it will immediately become clear why speed is so important. Microorganisms are extremely tenacious creatures, and as soon as they are given a convenient entrance, it will be immediately used.

The use of special supplements helps strengthen the immune system, as well as reduce the risk of most disorders. But as with any kind of potent drugs, you need to behave carefully and carefully. Active medications are often given after meals to reduce their irritant effects. In the same way, mixtures containing nitrogen must be diluted in a significant volume of water. Nothing bad will happen if you do the same with other fertilizers (but without deviating from the instructions).

If the soil on the site contains a noticeable proportion of sand, nitrogen will be valuable. Black soil is another matter. As part of this chemical element already in abundance. The more intense the watering (within reasonable limits), the more fertilizers can be applied. Rainy weather will also help here. If it is firmly established, farmers can simply spread out the right composition around the trunk and not to worry.

While they are digging up other beds, doing some other work, resting after righteous labors, or driving back from the dacha, the rain flow itself will deliver the fertilizer to the target. But we must also remember about feeding the plant outside the root. Such treatments are carried out only at those moments when the solar disk is not visible.

Attention: all fertilizers applied to the trunk and leaves must be weakened (diluted). Otherwise you will have to deal with burns.

The very first time fertilizer is introduced in the spring, as soon as early leaves appear. This is exactly the moment when nitrogen will have to be added for the future apple harvest. Top dressing is combined with digging and is done strictly along the perimeter of the crown. Even the smallest area cannot be left unattended.

• 40-50 kg of humus;
• 0.5-0.6 kg of urea;
• or 0.03-0.04 kg of a combination of ammonium nitrate and nitroammophos.

When the time of the first leaves has passed and the tree has bloomed, and this moment coincides with dry days, use only liquid mixtures(with dilution with 10 liters of water):

• chicken droppings – 1.5-2 kg;
• urea – 0.25-0.3 kg;
• slurry – 5 kg;
• a mixture of 0.1 kg of superphosphate with 0.06 kg of potassium sulfate.

There is a third period when the apple tree yearns to be nourished. It comes when the flowers have already fallen off and flown around, and the fruits are filling and ripening. Green fertilizer is already recommended here. It is prepared by infusing green parts of field herbs in water for 20-25 days. In summer, nitrogen alone is not enough; potassium and phosphorus should come to its aid.

Although apple trees need to be treated several times during the hot season, it is worth taking a pause of 10 to 15 days. Fertilizing for the fruit tree should begin in mid-June. The only remedy is urea applied to the leaves. If the first summer month is damp, it is advisable to use root feeding instead of foliar feeding. As the apple tree grows, the saturation of the solution is increased annually.

In July you need to spray the crown, being sure to ensure uniform concentration on all parts. Complete nutrition must be provided using some nitrogen. The interval between applications of mineral and nitrogen mixtures is 7-14 days.

IN autumn period You should not feed trees outside the roots, because this impairs preparation for winter weather. But recharge through the root using ready-made mixtures according to the instructions it is very good. Dwarf apple trees are fed with a 25-30% reduced amount of fertilizer.

The formation of holes reaching a depth of 0.3 m helps to increase the absorption of feed liquids. The problem is that such holes are unacceptable for a columnar apple tree of any variety; it is fed dryly or by watering near the root.

A small amount of nitrogen leads to pale and shredded foliage. It becomes smaller even with a weak supply of boron, but curling and yellowing of the sheets is already characteristic. If there is an acute lack of iron, the leaf becomes yellow, and soon colorless, dies, starting from the edge, new branches develop slowly.

Without calcium, the leaves become whitish and curl from top to bottom. A lack of magnesium creates “short-term beauty”: the leaf will be yellow, red or even purple, but will retain a green tone around the perimeter and on the veins. Copper starvation manifests itself in pallor and the appearance of brown areas on the foliage. Soon it becomes motley, but this motley is a harbinger of death.

A lack of phosphorus is recognized by a dull crown, in the color of which you can detect a bronze tint. An additional symptom is redness or the appearance of purple tones in the foliage. But the lack of zinc reveals itself by the shredding of the leaves and their wrinkling. In addition to mineral components, proper watering is also of great importance for the full development of the crop. It is carried out so that the soil is saturated with water 0.8 m deep.

Three waterings are carried out sequentially:

• against the background of flowering;
• in the first days of July (when the fruits are actively ripening);
• in October (to prepare the plant for frost).

If the weather is dry, the frequency of watering can be slightly increased, and in case of intense rainfall it can be reduced. Water for irrigation should not be colder than 18 and hotter than 25 degrees. In the first and second years of life, apple trees are watered with 40-50 liters of water at a time. When fruiting begins, you need to use 70-100 liters. The frequency of watering quickly growing apple trees in the first years of life is 4-5 times per season.

It is necessary to pour water strictly under the neck of the root. This significantly speeds up its penetration and reduces waste on evaporation and seepage into depth. In the first two years, watering through holes is more practical than other methods. But at an older age, it is recommended to use furrows reaching a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. When 48 to 72 hours have passed after watering, it is worth loosening the soil and mulching.

Working with garden shears also has its own characteristics. It is worth taking pruning shears in the spring to form a crown, and the best time for this is March and April (before the leaves hatch from the buds). But in summer, only the removal of branches blocking the most important vegetative parts is allowed. You can also remove the shoots growing along the body of the main axes.

Harvest and storage

Experienced farmers advise picking fruits only with cotton gloves. Coarser fabric breaks and tears off even the seemingly strong skin.

The second immutable law of apple picking is “what falls is lost” (for stocks). No, an apple that has fallen to the ground can be used, but only in two ways: either wash it and eat it right away, or recycle it.

It is recommended to leave the stem on the fruit, it reduces the risk of premature decomposition. The natural coating of wax is also useful. Those who seek to erase it are committing great stupidity. They think that hundreds of millions of years of evolution have been wasted, and that without this armor the fruit will last a long time. Meanwhile, nature acted much smarter - it created a remedy for drying out.

It is recommended to collect fruits when it is dry, ideally in the afternoon. Summer varieties After full ripening, very little is stored; it is recommended to collect them in August. The solution is to harvest 14-20 days before final maturity. You can store the collected food for up to 1 month if you ensure the room temperature is 0-3 degrees. The fruits of autumn varieties are harvested at the end of August and in the first days of September, after which they are stored in storage for ripening for 2 or 3 weeks.

Winter apples are removed from the branches in the second month of autumn. Their fresh collection is distinguished by some hardness and sourness. It will take 2-3 months for the fruits to reach full condition. But you can put them on both the New Year’s and April tables. When removing apples, they are cooled to 4 degrees and moved to prepared storage.

The classic storage method is a wooden box, but the weakness of this option is due to its susceptibility to rotting. Allowed to use plastic containers, which should be washed and disinfected in advance. Filling the containers with sawdust from deciduous wood helps improve the keeping quality of apples. Coniferous sawdust has a resinous aroma, which the fruits will also perceive. Straw has a high risk of mold formation.

Selected wood chips have a moisture limit of 20% (or better - 15%). A good result is obtained by rearranging apples with oak (maple) leaves, peat chips, and dried moss. These components are distinguished by antibacterial characteristics.

Ripening is most active in large fruits. For bookmarking, it is worth selecting containers with small vents. Disinfection is carried out with bleach, after which thorough drying is required. The bottoms of the boxes are covered with clean white paper and sawdust. Take enough sawdust so that the first tier of fruit is completely covered.

It is recommended to separate the fruits by wrapping them in paper. The final layer is also covered with paper and sawdust. Containers placed for storage are sealed. Instead of these materials, cardboard spacers or synthetic substances can be used to separate the layers. Careful separation is especially important when transporting over long distances.

Diseases and pests

No matter how hard gardeners try to provide the trees with everything they need, so that their efforts result in a tasty, abundant harvest, they will have to fight infections and pests. Powdery mildew is a disease that readily attacks a wide variety of crops. It hits all vital parts of the trees and begins to manifest itself as a whitish coating.

When the infection gets stronger, it will undermine the tone of the plant. Winter is not scary for the fungus; when the heat returns, it will be able to continue its work. The fight against the disease, as well as its prevention, should be carried out as soon as possible. Specialized preparations are used in the spring, trying to get ahead of the full expansion of leaves. At the end of flowering, apple trees are protected by using copper oxychloride and other compounds.

Need to keep suppressing powdery mildew and after removing the apples. Then you will need a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate diluted with liquid soap.

Scab is an equally serious disease; it deprives the apple tree of leaves and prevents the fruit from growing. Adult and young trees are equally treated in the spring with Topaz. The recommended proportion is 2 g per 10 liters of water.

The top three among fungal infections of apple trees is cytosporosis. It attacks isolated areas on the cortex, which does not make the disease any safer. Gradually, the affected areas increase in size, and the bark dries out along with the branches. In case of unfavorable developments, the death of the tree occurs quickly. Once again, copper oxychloride preparations come to the rescue of gardeners, which are used at the moment of swelling of the buds and immediately before flowering, as well as after it.

If we move from microscopic enemies to completely visible insects, the most important enemy of the apple orchard owner will be the green apple aphid. It is present in all regions where there is food supply for it. Natural biological protection – ladybug. But when it’s not there, karbofos helps. From available means, a decoction of tobacco mixed with soap can replace it.

It is recommended to clean out all the old bark and not just remove it, but burn it. It’s even better to take it outside the boundaries of the site in a plastic bag, from where the tick cannot crawl out, and throw it into the fire immediately.

​​The apple honeydew also has another name - psyllid. It is colored yellow-green and can withstand even the most severe winter without loss of livestock. When the buds swell and bloom, it will become extremely difficult to identify the enemy in the green thicket. Then all that remains is to fumigate the plants with tobacco smoke or coat them with dissolved karbofos.

Apple moth is another enemy of any apple orchard. She also adapted to the climate of Russian regions. It settles on leaves and eats them. The key control agents are chlorophos and zolon. The leaf roller is a worthy competitor to the apple moth in terms of distribution; it ignores rare gardens.

Like other insects, leaf rollers should be controlled as early as possible. It is better to treat the plants before it has mastered the fresh foliage. First, apple trees are treated with nitrophen. Then, as soon as the buds open, use chlorophos. The fight against the flower beetle mostly involves mechanically shaking it off from the affected areas; chemical support is provided by chlorophos or karbofos.

To learn how to plant an apple tree, see the following video.

15.09.2017

The topic of choosing the timing of planting apple trees is quite relevant, since they are deservedly popular. In most regions of Russia, amateur gardeners strive to grow varieties of apples with different ripening times, so that they are available in the diet almost all year round. To reap good harvests when planting, carefully select a place on the site, properly prepare the soil and seedlings, and follow the rules of care. An important point is the choice of planting dates, which vary depending on the climate, weather, seedling variety, and intended cultivation method.

Choosing a season for planting an apple tree

Ideally, planting material takes root in a new place during the dormant period. Trees go completely dormant in winter, but winter planting in frozen soil is impossible, so it is customary to plant apple trees in the spring before sap flow begins or in the fall after it ends. Additional information will help determine the timing more accurately.

Landing times by region

To prevent the root system from dying from the cold and, conversely, the buds from drying out from the heat, transfer the tree to permanent place needed when optimal temperature air and soil. The following are average data on planting times in different climatic zones countries.

1. Northern regions of Russia. In Siberia, the Urals, and the Leningrad region, it is advisable to carry out planting work in the spring, from the last ten days of April to mid-May. During the growing season, the root system will produce new shoots, and the strengthened apple trees will not be afraid of the coming frosts. Planting young trees in winter is fraught with the risk of them freezing even with hilling and mulching.
2. The middle zone (this includes, in particular, the Moscow region). In principle, both spring and autumn options are possible here. The first is still preferable, since winter here is characterized by sudden changes in temperature and gusty winds, harmful to plants that have not taken root. In autumn, it is allowed to carry out planting work, starting from the end of September and no later than mid-October (three weeks before frost).
3. Southern regions. Spring and autumn planting are equally acceptable. Closer to the north, it is preferable to plant trees in the spring (from mid-April), and in the southern regions - in the autumn (from October to mid-November).

Weather

When planting apple trees, they take into account not only the natural area, but also weather conditions. In the spring, you will have to do a little shoveling to check the readiness of the thawed soil. If the bayonet enters the ground without resistance, the heating is sufficient and you can begin planting. If the canvas bends, there is no need to take risks: the seedlings may freeze. You should start checking around mid-April.

In autumn the soil is already quite warm, it is better not to rush with planting work: if you move them by the end of August, the roots will not take root well. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to plant apple trees when the leaves begin to fall. As a last resort, if summer replanting is necessary, the tree is dug up with a large lump of earth, more attention is paid to watering, and the feeding rate is increased.

It is preferable to carry out work on a quiet, cloudy day. Under the scorching rays of the sun, young growth can dry out, and gusts of wind can break thin trees. In spring, evening planting is more favorable: in the morning the soil is cold, but during the day it has time to warm up better.

How to choose apple tree seedlings

When purchasing, you should take into account several factors that affect the timing of planting and make adjustments to the care method.

• Age of the tree. In the spring, young seedlings no older than 2 years have an advantage, and more mature, resistant plants can be planted in the autumn. It is advisable to replant mature trees closer to winter, when the growing season has almost completely stopped - this will protect the apple trees from death when changing location.
• Type of root system. Seedlings with bare roots more suitable for mild climates. Near St. Petersburg, in the Urals and in Siberia, even for spring planting It is worth choosing trees in containers.
• Varietal affiliation. Columnar apple trees with a not very developed root system are usually planted in the spring. During the growing season, the roots will “grow together” with the soil, and for the winter they will have to be additionally insulated. Dwarf and semi-dwarf trees have the same roots as tall varieties, so they are less picky when it comes to planting.

When trying to purchase high-quality apple trees, you should not choose the largest of them. In nurseries, seedlings are removed from the soil using a plow, which seriously injures the roots of large specimens. To make them sick less during the adaptation period, the branched crown will have to be cut out almost completely. At the same time, unsightly-looking one-year-olds and two-year-olds suffer less when dug up, since their roots are located more compactly.

Experienced gardeners do not advise buying trees at spontaneous markets or from random traders. In this case, the risk of purchasing ungrafted or unregistered apple trees increases. It is much safer to contact nurseries or specialized stores that offer customers high-yielding, winter-hardy or drought-resistant varieties adapted to local natural conditions.

Preparing the landing site

Sometimes they mistakenly believe that an unpretentious apple tree can grow wherever it needs to. But this culture has certain preferences:

• plenty of sun in summer;
• fertilized soil;
• lack of swampiness;
• protection from strong winds and, at the same time, sufficient ventilation of the area.

If on personal plot There is no place with such a combination of conditions; they must be created. A high fence will help protect the trees from the wind and enrich the soil - organic fertilizers or green manure, prevent rotting of roots from groundwater - drainage. It is undesirable to place young trees where apple trees previously grew. From year to year, plants secrete specific substances that remain in the soil and inhibit the growth of seedlings of the same breed. Good predecessors for apple trees are plums and cherries. In a vacant lot suitable place for the seedling there will be a corner where nettles have grown wildly.

Before planting, find out whether the selected variety is self-pollinating. If this is not the case, you should take care of pollinators: plant a garden near the apiary or plant certain varieties of apple trees nearby (found from the table). In the middle zone, Antonovka is an almost universal pollinator.

Features of autumn apple tree planting

If the climate and weather allow you to plant apple trees in the fall, all you have to do is wait until the leaves fall, prepare a hole in advance, buy a 1-2-year-old medium-sized seedling and plant it. Until the soil temperature reaches +4 °C, a plant with a “dormant” top will intensively produce young roots. The following lists the main agrotechnical techniques for planting apple trees in the fall.

1. In about a month (at most, 10-12 days), a hole 1 x 1 meter is dug, to a depth of about 70 cm. The top fertile layer of soil is placed separately from the rest of the soil. A stake is driven in the middle of the recess so that it then protrudes 0.3-0.4 m above ground level.
2. The deposited top layer is mixed with the lower infertile soil, and 1/3 of this mixture is separated. Add 3 buckets of rotted manure, 10 spoons wood ash, a glass of superphosphate, 4 tablespoons of potassium salt and mix thoroughly. The resulting fertilized mixture is unloaded into the hole, and the remaining 2/3 (unfertilized soil) is poured on top. The planting hole is watered, and after settling, soil is added
3. At the appointed time, the apple tree is planted, after making a hole in a filled hole and adding a little black soil there.
4. The roots are immersed in a hole and covered with earth so that the root collar remains 5 cm above its level. The tree is tied to a support.
5. Water thoroughly (3-4 buckets of water) so that the soil adheres better to the roots. After this, fill the hole with earth, ensuring that the root collar is at ground level or a couple of centimeters above it.

After the water has been absorbed, a not too thick layer of humus or peat chips is poured onto the bottom of the hole to prevent moisture evaporation. With the approach of stable frosts, the layer of mulch is increased, the seedlings are wrapped in spruce branches or thick paper - this will help protect them from frost, sunburn in early spring, as well as rodents. In areas where little snow falls in winter, the stems are buried in soil to a height of up to 20 cm.

Features of spring apple tree planting

1. After the soil has thawed (about 7-10 days before planting), prepare a hole. In good soil, a depth of 60 cm is sufficient, in poor soils - at least 70 cm. The diameter of the pit is maintained from 60 to 80 cm.
2. Thoroughly moisten the root system of the seedlings by placing them in a barrel of water for a day. Once saturated with moisture, the roots will be protected from drying out.
3. Planting a seedling in the ground is carried out using “autumn” technology. The only difference is a higher watering rate. It is stopped when the soil stops absorbing moisture.
4. When planting columnar varieties in ridges, first prepare a 3x3.5 meter strip for each plant and dig it to a bayonet depth. A mixture of fertilizers is scattered over the surface: a bucket of compost (humus), 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 2 tablespoons of potassium salt per 1 m2. The earth is scraped with a rake and sprinkled with soil without fertilizers (layer 60-70 cm). Apple trees are planted after 2-3 weeks, and at the same time, grooves are dug between the rows to drain groundwater.

Nuances and main mistakes when planting apple trees

As already mentioned, an important point is the correct placement of the seedling in the hole. If the root collar (the boundary between the trunk and the root) is deep in the ground, the tree will be stunted. When planted shallowly, the roots dry out, which can even cause the plant to die. To correctly determine the position of the root collar, bottom part Wipe the main shoot with a wet rag and visually determine the line where the color of the bark turns from green to brown. Do not confuse the root collar with the grafting site, which is 4-8 cm higher.

A number of useful tips will help novice gardeners when planting apple trees:

• Do not exceed the dose of mineral fertilizers. Their excess leads to the death of beneficial bacteria that process useful material for their better absorption by plants.
• It is unacceptable to place fresh manure in the planting hole. Being deep in the pit, organic matter without oxygen decomposes very slowly, releasing ammonia and hydrogen sulfide. These compounds inhibit the roots of the seedling and slow down the survival rate.
• Before planting, the damaged roots of the seedling are cut off, and if they are dry, the tree is placed in water for 1-2 days. To improve contact with the soil, the root system is dipped in a liquid water mixture of red clay (3 parts) and mullein (1 part). It is advisable to add a rooting agent to this composition - Grandis, Rival, Epin.
• When lowering the seedling into the hole, all root shoots should be directed downward or horizontally.
• After sprinkling the roots with soil, gently press it down with a shovel or hands. Do not trample the hole with your feet or use a tamper.
• When tying the tree to a peg, the twine is twisted in the shape of a figure eight so that the stem sways less during the wind and does not split. Under the twine, a roofing material lining is put on the trunk so that the bark is not damaged due to friction.

Apple tree care

Caring for the seedling in the first years is not difficult: you need to remove weeds and periodically moisten the soil. About the condition tree trunk circles there are different opinions. They can be kept under black fallow and constantly loosened to prevent cracking of the soil. The second option is mulching with dry grass or straw. The inter-row spaces are sown with green manure in the summer, mowed in the fall and incorporated into the soil as organic matter.

After autumn planting, watering the tree is done once, since water evaporates slowly during the cold season. An apple tree planted in spring is watered 2-3 times a week until it takes root. After that on clay soils watering is reduced to once a month, and during drought by sandy soils it is carried out at least once a week. Watering rate is 2-3 buckets per plant, the water must be settled and warm.

Covering with spruce branches, strips of paper, mulching with manure or hilling for the winter is carried out for the first five years after planting, until the trees become stronger. Crown formation begins in the second year, in early spring. They cut off the branches growing in the area of ​​the trunk, shorten strongly growing shoots (more than half a meter long) - this technique helps to restrain the growth of trees in height and activate the development of lateral branches. During the first two years, all the flowers are picked off on young apple trees, and then the load is adjusted, leaving 1-2 apples in the fruit clusters.