Everyone who has experience is familiar with manual technology hilling bushes.
In order to facilitate this process, you can make a hiller out of a bicycle with your own hands.
Operating principle
It’s easy to understand how your labor costs will be reduced. The operating principle of a homemade potato hiller is simple.
Did you know? In Europe, potatoes began to be grown in the middle of the 16th century.
The main part of the unit, which goes 10-15 cm deep into the ground, is made conical or in the shape of an arrowhead. The blades are placed at such an angle that the soil between the rows moves apart to the required width and covers the row. The width will depend on the width of the row. 
This part is attached to a bicycle frame with handlebars. It is the steering wheel that controls the entire unit. And what makes the job easier is the wheel that moves in front.
Thus, The process of hilling potatoes is carried out by the following steps:
- we go deep into the ground;
- move it using a wheel;
- We control the unit using the steering wheel.
How to make a potato hiller with your own hands
You can understand how to make a potato hiller with your own hands by reading our article. This is not difficult for an owner who has necessary tool, unnecessary old bike, section and, of course, desire. 
Materials and tools
To make a manual potato hiller, you need, first of all, a cultivator part. Here you can use a ready-made section of a conventional tractor cultivator; you can weld the cultivator by placing the blades at the desired angle. You will need the frame of an old Soviet bicycle with one wheel (26-28 inches). 
It is better to remove the rubber from the wheel, leaving the rim “bare”. The metal cuts into the ground better, so the finished unit is easier to control. There should be a handlebar on the frame. 
Naturally, you will need both bicycle wrenches and wrenches.
Manufacturing process
The manufacturing process will consist of several stages.
Important! Follow safety precautions during the manufacturing process.
- The first stage is preparatory.
If there is no cultivator section, you need to prepare the metal to weld it yourself. - The second stage is the manufacture of the unit.
The reach of this section must be adjusted so that it is convenient to walk at a distance from the hiller. We install the steering wheel in the place where the saddle was. Tighten tightly with a bicycle wrench. We adjust the height to suit your height.
In addition, it is imperative to tighten or weld the front fork very tightly so that it stands “dead” and does not turn. If there is no ready-made cultivator section, then it needs to be welded. There is a special calculation here. It is necessary that the width of the hiller be 2/3 of the width of the row. The angle of the welded blades should not be sharp so that they grip the ground well (approximately 80-90°).
Important! In case of violation of safety regulations welding work the following injuries are possible: defeat electric shock, burns from slag and metal drops, mechanical injuries.
A belt can be attached to the front to allow two people to work. The first one pulls the belt, the second one controls it. To make the hiller easier to crash into the ground, you can attach a weight to it.Shovels, hoees, scoops and rakes are the “gentleman’s set” of every gardener. However, using your imagination, you can do something new with your own hands and make your life much easier, especially during the spring rush period.
How to make a marker for sowing seeds
A homemade two-row marker allows me to significantly speed up the process of sowing seeds. Hilling potatoes with a hand hiller gave me this idea; people also call it an “eared” hiller. In essence, the marker is a smaller copy of it. During the tests, I finalized the design and I would like to tell you about the final result.
The rows made with a marker turn out smooth, and the work is pleasantly easy. The row depth can be adjusted by pressing on the marker handle, and the width between the rows can be adjusted by rearranging the marker plows on the base.
The marker is made from of stainless steel. A half-inch pipe was taken as a base and a cone for the handle was welded perpendicular to it. Small gussets are welded between the pipe and the cone for structural rigidity. Holes are drilled along the edges of the pipe to change the width between the rows. Plows are inserted into these holes. They are made according to a template from two identical halves. The two halves are bent so that they touch in the middle and welded together.
To attach the plows to the frame, I took a metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm. I welded one side vertically to the plow, and on the other side I cut a thread and screwed it to the pipe with nuts. The handle is an ordinary wooden one, 150-170 cm long.
That's basically it. If you are not able to make this product yourself, then there will definitely be a craftsman nearby who can do all this, guided by the drawings I provided.
©V. WITER
Instead of a flat cutter and with your own hands
There is probably no more monotonous and tedious work in garden plot than weeding. What if this is several hundred square meters of not the most fertile land? Tools created by my husband help me maintain a healthy back, knees and arms. Taking the blade of the broken braid, the husband welded it to the pipe and put the structure on the handle. The result was a rather heavy, clumsy device, but quite suitable for cleaning (cutting) paths.
And for the beds he made cutting (from the word “to prune”). I use it to trim weeds between rows of carrots, onions, garlic, cabbage and other vegetables, and even more so under berry bushes. The main thing is that the weeds are not yet blooming. I move it along the ground with light pressure and that’s it. When cutting a path, I move backwards so as not to trample the freshly cut plants. The main thing is to do this operation not before the rain and not immediately after the rain, so that the weeds do not take root again.
By cutting along the beds, I simultaneously destroy the crust of the earth after watering, and if you deepen it a little (with a little pressure), you can loosen it upper layer land. In early spring when the earth is not yet ready for a shovel, this is how I prepare the beds for early greenery and radishes.
I remove weeds that resist cutting (in particular, dandelions) with a root remover. There are many different types, but I prefer a simple rod on a thick wooden handle.
I’ll briefly talk about cutting manufacturing technology. My husband used (1-shaped wire from a combine reel, but another one will do, the main thing is that it is steel, with a diameter of 5 mm. He heated the wire blowtorch red hot, bent it and beat it with a hammer on an anvil, trying to make one side (blade) thinner and the other (back part) about 3 mm thick. Then the workpiece, still straightened, was sharpened with sandpaper, and after this the edges of the sharpened areas were heated at the place of the intended bend and bent. By heating the unforged ends of the wire, I gave it its final shape and welded it to a piece of pipe with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of about 80 mm. I pre-drilled a hole in it for attaching to the handle. Wooden handle, light.
The length of the forged section depends on the distance between the rows that you will weed. Our distance between rows is 20-25 cm, so the cutting width is 15 cm (a wider one is inconvenient to work with). Length of the forged section: if you need to cut 12 cm, you need to forge 18 cm so that there is 3 cm on each side for the bend.
Maybe someone uses something different, but we have the best hand tools for our “non-black soil” no.
©O.IZMESTYEVA
DIY fork-digger
Do-it-yourself hiller instead of a flat cutter
©V.GORLANOV
DIY weeding hoe
This simple tool is convenient for removing weed seedlings from the beds, and it is especially good if there are drip irrigation pipes installed in the vegetable bed. The chopper does not damage young plants in the beds or drip pipes.
It can be made in 30-40 minutes. This will require 75-80 cm of elastic steel wire with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm, a 25-30 cm piece of polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20 mm, as well as pliers, a glue gun and insulating tape.
Bend the wire in half and pass it inside the tube, bend its ends with pliers and fix them insulating tape. For more reliable fixation of the wire into the ends of the tube, fill it with glue gun melted polyethylene.
The chopper is especially effective if the soil is not very dense, but a soil crust has formed on top. It is easy and convenient to work with. It does not cut off the seedlings and grass, but pulls them out of the ground, so from time to time the “threads” of weeds have to be removed from the wire loop. But this is perhaps the only drawback of this tool.
© S. GRISHIN
DIY hiller
Reader AL. Mizyak from Bogodukhov, Kharkov region. shared his experience of hilling beds using the hiller he made. The idea is that a wheel is additionally used, with the help of which the direction of the furrow is set and the depth of the ploughshare is changed.
The work is done by one person, whereas a “classic” hiller requires two. Original! But... working with such a tool requires effort typical of a well-developed physically young man. How to solve a problem? The conclusion is obvious: dragging the hiller behind you is easier than pushing it forward.
Therefore, I created and tested a hiller design for working alone by pushing (photo 1). Design requirements.
The hiller's ploughshare is rigidly fixed to the frame with a slight play to change the angle of "attack" of the ploughshare (i.e., its penetration into the arable layer is adjusted).
The balance (so that the ploughshare does not fall to the sides) of the tool is carried out due to optimal distance between the handles there is a “drawbar”.
A wheel is not required (there are no problems with attaching the latter).
It is possible, if necessary, to use the help of a partner, for which you just need to insert a handle into the frame (photo 2).
To make the hiller, I used a frame from a children's bicycle, parts from children's scooter, ploughshare and lever with factory hiller handles. I called this unit “Pull-Push”.
©D.Erofeev Honored Innovator, Kondrpoga, Karelia
GARDEN ASSISTANTS WITH YOUR HANDS
The summer season is coming to an end. But wise proverb says: “Prepare the sleigh in the summer and the cart in the winter.” That is why we are publishing a competition material on how to make devices that will be useful to you in next year for processing beds and planting onions, garlic and legumes.
DIY seeder
From a pipe with an outer d of 22 mm and an inner d of 16 mm, I cut two blanks 150 mm long. I rounded the edges of one of them; this will be a handle.
I drilled a 4 mm hole in each part approximately in the middle and cut threads into them for installing locking bolts (see photo 1, p. 1)
To the second workpiece, opposite each other, I welded two ears with holes d 6 mm. Using bolts, I secured the clamps (2) to them. I installed springs on the same bolts (under the clamps), which constantly hold the clamps in a compressed position.
I connected both blanks together with a piece of pipe (3) made of metal-plastic, 120 cm long. The latter was secured with locking bolts so that it would not fall out. An aluminum rod d 6 mm was placed inside this workpiece, at one end of which a washer was previously riveted to push out the seeds, and at the other end a stop (4) was installed on the thread.
The planting method is simple. I collect onion sets (or another crop) into a container and hang it on my shoulder. I place the onion in the clamps, turn it over and lower the device to the place where the nest should be, push the clamps a little into the ground and press the pusher. All is ready.
Do-it-yourself roller-ripper
Often after rain, a crust forms on the beds. To remove it, I made a roller with teeth (photo 2).
I took a piece of pipe d 60 mm and length 300 mm. I drew the workpiece into 6 equal parts (50 mm each).
Wire d 6 mm was cut into 15 pieces 110 mm long. The ends of each were sharpened with sandpaper. Then he bent the blanks into the shape of the letter “P”.
Many of us tried to do a cartwheel in physical education class as children, but most of us were unsuccessful at this acrobatic element. The wheel is a fairly simple exercise, but due to incorrect execution technique, tightness, unprepared muscles, and fear, not everyone can do it the first time.
In fact, this trick is quite simple, you can learn it in 1 day. It is especially easy for a child to do this rotation using his hands. To do this, he must be properly instructed by an adult who is good at making the wheel himself.
Before moving directly to the technique of performing the wheel, it is necessary to carry out some preparation.
First, make sure that you do not have the following contraindications for this activity:
- Serious disturbance in the functioning of the vestibular apparatus.
- Recent hand injuries.
- Displaced spinal discs or herniation.
- Frequent dizziness or migraines.
- Knee injury.
If your health is good, you can start preparing. This stage consists of a high-quality warm-up, warming up the muscles of the arms, lower body and abs.
15-20 minutes should be spent bending the body forward and backward, rotating the shoulder joints, knees, and feet. After this, do some quality stretching. It is very important for this trick: in order to do it correctly, you need to swing your legs with a large amplitude.
A child, due to their increased natural flexibility, can stretch less than an adult. The entire warm-up process for him can be completed in 10 minutes.
Hand rotation technique
After warming up and stretching, you can proceed directly to performing the wheel itself. If you are doing this exercise for the first time, it is advisable to have an assistant near you. You can train at home or outdoors, you just need to make sure that there is a lot of free space around you.
Sometimes, as a preparatory exercise, it is recommended to do a handstand against a wall. But in this case, the effectiveness of such training is low. Often people, completely unable to maintain static balance, freely perform the coup itself.
The classic version of the exercise is a forward wheel using your hands. To do this, take the starting position: stand straight, spread your legs wide, spread your arms to the sides, turn your head in the direction of movement.
Execution steps:
The main rule of this technique is to keep all limbs perfectly straight at all times!
Butterfly twist technique and wheel on one arm
The butterfly exercise is basic for performing this acrobatic element without using your hands.
It is done like this:
- Bend your knees, spread your arms wide to your sides.
- Turn your whole body to the right side, while twisting your legs synchronously with top part housings.
- As you exhale, sharply turn in the opposite direction and make a strong swing with your back leg.
- At the moment when the body is twisted as much as possible, push off with your supporting leg from the floor, throw your legs along the body as high as possible.
- The body at this moment should be tilted low.
Performing this exercise quickly, we make a semicircle in the air with our legs, while keeping our arms parallel at chest level.
The intermediate element between the two types of wheel is to perform it with one hand. The technique is the same as for a regular twist, with the difference that at the moment of the revolution you need to rely on only one hand. If this acrobatic element turns out well, it will not be difficult to do it without any support at all.
Flip in the air without using your hands
It is much more difficult to do a back or forward flip without using your hands; this technique is considered more advanced, used by professional acrobats or as an element of parkour. But if you feel confident in own strength, you can try to do this acrobatic element.
The secret to performing a forward cartwheel without using your hands, the so-called aerial technique, is a high initial speed of body rotation. To do this, you need to make a strong push with your feet from the surface, setting the body to the selected vector of movement. The success of performing such an element lies precisely in the work of the legs: in the absence of additional support, they are the only part of the body that controls the movement of the body.
The easiest way is to try to do a cartwheel without support from the basic starting position. At the moment of pushing with the back leg, it needs to make a very strong swing, which will transfer the necessary inertia of movement to the body. Try to push your foot off the floor as hard as possible and throw your body up. It should be high enough from the ground to avoid damaging your head.
The aerial technique implies very good stretching legs Athletes who perform this trick professionally have their legs almost stretched out into splits at the moment of twisting in the air.
Wheel back
This type of wheel is the most difficult. To do this you need to have Strong arms and good flexibility.
This kind of back flip is done through the “bridge” position. To do this, make a bridge from a standing position. Try throwing your legs up without changing the arch in your back. Correct technique implies continuous movement: throwing your legs should be done at the moment your hands touch the floor. Thus, you give them the necessary impulse to the body in order to make a coup in the air.
The tractor is very successful - it is maneuverable and has high maneuverability. Its speed reaches 37 km/h. The tractor has eight speeds in total - four forward and the same number in reverse.
Rice. 1. General form microtractor "SAP":
I - driver's seat, 2 - switch block, 3 - hood lid handle, 4 - headlight, 5 - front bumper, 6 - gear shift and clutch control levers, 7 - kickstarter lever, 8 - reverse lever, 9 - brake pedal, 10 - gas pedal.
Rice. 2. Layout of the SAP microtractor:
1 - front axle, 2 - frame elements of the Tula-200 scooter, 3 - T-200 engine, 4 - gas tank, 5 - steering wheel, 6 - reverse rod, 7 - rear axle mounting unit, 8 - axle shaft, 9 - rear wheel hub with sprocket, 10 - reversible main gear, 11 - longitudinal steering linkage, 12 - drive shaft and its mounting unit, 13 - microtractor frame, 14 - transverse steering linkage linkage, 15 - engine attachment to the frame, 16 - brake pedal, 17 - drive shaft coupling.
And now about the device.
FRAME(Fig. 3| The tractor is welded. It consists of a “horseshoe” bent from a thick-walled drill pipe 0 28 mm, two angle crossbars and a pipe 0 50 mm. Two steel shaped plates in its rear part are intended for fastening intermediate sprockets. Use of elements The frame of the T-200 scooter made it easier to install the engine and attach the hood trim.
Rice. 3. Microtractor frame:
1 - engine mount, 2 - “horseshoe” (drilling steel pipe 0 28 mm), 3 - crossbar (steel angle 30 X X 30 mm), 4 - bracket, 5 - crossbar (steel angle 40X40 mm), 6 - shaped plate for fastening the drive shaft ( steel sheet S -12 mm), 7 - cross member (steel pipe 0 50 mm), 8 - bolt Ml6X62.
FRONT AXLE(Fig. 4). Its basis is a beam welded from pipes 0 42 mm in the form of the letter H. The verification points are reinforced with steel gussets. Bronze liners are pressed into the trunnion bushings. The connection between the front axle and the frame consists of two gussets with a steel bushing between them.
The steering axle is a turned stepped shaft with a steel bushing welded to it (the front axle shaft is inserted into it). Pedals from the “R-GA-3” moped are adapted for the rotary levers of the steering linkage.
Rice. 4. Front axle design:
1 - front axle mounting unit 2 - front axle beam, 3 - front mud flap bracket, 4 - axle bushing, 5 - axle shaft, 6 - front wheel hub with brake device, 7 - axle, 8 - swing arm.
STEERING(Fig. 5). Its basis is the steering mechanism - a gearbox with bevel gears (gear ratio 1:3) from the Druzhba chainsaw. The smaller gear is connected to the steering wheel, and a bipod is put on the shaft of the larger one, then the force is transmitted using a longitudinal rod to a lever welded to the left axle.
Rice. 5. Steering kinematics:
1 - steering mechanism, 2 - bipod, 3 - longitudinal rod, 4 - transverse rod, 5 - rotary axle.
TRANSMISSION. The torque on the drive sprocket of the engine is transmitted using a bushing-roller chain to the main differential transmission (Fig. 6] with a reversing device (from the SZA motorized stroller), and then also by a chain to the hubs of the wheels mounted on the axle axle.
Rice. 6. Design of the drive shaft of the SAP microtractor:
1 - drive shaft, 2 - retaining ring, 3 - oil seal, 4 - drive shaft mounting housing, 5 - drive sprocket, 6 - nut, 7 - bushing, 8 - ball bearing No. 205.
REAR AXLE(Fig. 7, Fig. 8) is the most complex unit of a microtractor, so it makes sense to describe its design in more detail. It consists mainly of parts from decommissioned cars, so the main difficulty in assembling the rear axle was the most successful combination of them.
Wheel hubs from a GAZ-69 car. To attach the driven sprockets to them, the standard studs were replaced with bolts, and accordingly the seats of the wheel disks were modified. By the way, in order to make the rear axle more compact, we turned them over - the inside of the discs became the outside.
The brake drums of the rear wheels are from a “VP-150” scooter. The only difference between them and the “branded” ones is that they have five 010 mm holes drilled in them for the bolts securing them to the wheel hub. The driven sprockets are attached directly to the brake drums.
Brake pad housing from the Tourist scooter; it only enlarged the central hole to 052 mm and drilled three 010 mm holes for the bolts securing it to the bearing housing. The brake pads are also used from the Tourist scooter.
The brake pad housing bushing and the assembly with which the axle shaft is installed on the frame had to be made independently.
The most complex and critical components and parts of the tractor (mostly those that we made ourselves) are shown in the pictures and drawings.
Rice. 7, Fig. 8 Rear axle of microtractor:
1 - axle shaft, 2 - wheel hub (from a GAZ-69 car), 3 - wheel disk from a GAZ-69 or UAZ-469 car). 4 - brake drum (Vyatka VP-150 scooter), 5 - driven sprocket, 6 - axle shaft mounting plate, 7 - bolt with nut - bearing housing fastening, 8 - bearing housing, 9 - oil seal, 10 - bearing housing cover, 11 - bushing, 12 - brake pad body, 13 - brake pad, 14 - flange.
The tractor has good cross-country ability not only in summer, but also in winter. Its front wheels are replaced with skis. A trailer - a two-wheeled cart - can be subjected to the same operation.
Appearance the finished tractor is shown in Fig. 9
Rice. 9 Appearance of the Sap microtractor
Sergei and Andrey Pavlov (MK 1977 12)