The question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about having information that many masters hide - ignorance of the subtleties is precisely the very stumbling block that makes most people give up self-installation this plumbing fixture and seek the help of professionals. In this article, together with the website, we will talk about correct sequence installing a bathtub and the subtleties that are inherent in installing a bathtub depending on the material from which it is made.
DIY bathtub installation photo
How to install a bathtub with your own hands: sequence of work
To understand the general installation principle for all types of bathtubs, let’s first consider the sequence of work, which remains the same for both cast iron and even acrylic ones. We will leave the subtleties of the work relating to each individual type of bathtub for last.
- Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I won’t go into the intricacies of installing a bathtub siphon, I’ll just say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. There is no need to perform any additional sealing of the joints - this will at least lead to damage to the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually supplied by the manufacturers of these products.
- Installation of supports on the bathtub. Here, too, not everything is clear - there are quite a lot of designs for supporting elements. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen completely abandon factory legs and give preference to the so-called ones. In some respects they are right - for example, it is better to install steel bathtubs this way. We'll talk a little further about how to install a bathtub on bricks.
How to install a bathtub with your own hands photo
- Insulation and soundproofing of the bathtub. This step of the work applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already quite warm and do not produce excessive noise during the process of filling them. The bathtub is sound and heat insulated using polyurethane foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the bathtub, you may need from 4 to 5 large cylinders of polyurethane foam.
- Positioning the bath relative to the horizon. The bathtub, prepared and installed in the required place, must be aligned relative to the horizon level. There is no need to lay down any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and incorporated into the design of the bathtub. Positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for these purposes adjusting screws. By unscrewing and tightening them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bathtub is installed relative to the horizon level, and then the short one. The progress of this process is controlled by a rack level.
Installation steel bath do it yourself photo
- Bathtub fixing. This nuance applies exclusively to a steel or acrylic bathtub - such a step is not provided, since its weight is quite enough not to sag or move under the weight of water and people. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls using metal hooks, which are often used to install water heating tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bathtub itself during operation.
- Sealing. This is the final stage of solving the question of how to install a bathtub correctly? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - self-adhesive border tape, and in others, even tiles can be used. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bathtub (this happens when the bathtub is installed before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.
How to install a bathtub to the wall photo
This is what the solution to the question of how to install a bathtub against a wall looks like? All that remains is to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bathtub depending on the material from which it is made. That's what we'll do next.
Subtleties of installing a steel bathtub: two important points
In addition to the above, you can add only two points - the height of the installation of the bathroom and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.
You can watch the nuances of installing a steel bathtub in the video below.
Features of installing an acrylic bathtub: four decisive factors
This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the following nuances.
The nuances of installing a cast iron bathtub: what you need to know during installation
There are practically no nuances to installing this product. Or rather, they exist, but they are all described above. This bathtub does not need to be secured to the walls. All that is necessary is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust it to the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general cast iron bathtubs in modern renovation They are used extremely rarely - they are expensive and do not differ in the variety of forms. The only obstacle to installing a cast iron bathtub is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bathtub, then enlist the help of an assistant.
Well, in conclusion to the question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. There is no need to be afraid of them - they are installed almost exactly the same way as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner baths They are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points on the long side and at one point on the short side.
Step 1. We print out the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid it soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, studs, washers, nuts, stands. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, the reinforced frame contains more metal profiles, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.
Typically, holes are already drilled in the reinforcement and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to mark and drill holes yourself.
Most acrylic bathtubs are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line adjacent to the walls with metal hooks and hangers.
If not included drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.
For work you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also don’t forget about silicone-based sealant, a bubble level, a tape measure and a pencil.
Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. Turn the bath over without removing it protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to any side of the bowl.
Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bathtub and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.
We place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bottom of the bathtub.
Step 3. Let's move on to installing the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bathtub, two under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge that will be adjacent to the wall.
We begin to fasten the racks to the profile and side of the bathtub. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long pin into it, and a nut onto the pin. We insert the resulting pin with a stand into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. Secure the stud with a nut and locknut. We screw a plastic support on top.
We assemble the remaining support legs in the same way. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side should be 60 cm.
Short studs are intended for the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, secure them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.
Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.
If necessary wrench Tighten the studs to level the position.
We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bathtub.
Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take a level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. Make slopes for best stock no water needed.
Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. General principle connection of inspection siphons (piping) of the knee type is as follows:
Note! Before the stage of final installation of the bathtub and screen, you can insulate the bottom of the bowl with polyurethane foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, bottom and partially grasping the fasteners for the purpose of their additional fixation.
Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bathtub is level, all that remains is to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bathtub. We put the edge of the bathtub on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick siphon corrugation into the sewer hole. After joining, we apply a strip to the junction of the bathtub and the wall silicone sealant and attach the baseboard or protective strip.
Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and reassemble all products in order to eliminate defects.
Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clip fastenings are included. First, the upper fasteners are screwed, after which the opposite ones are screwed down. The decorative panel simply “snaps” onto them.
Attach the squeeze plates to the inserts, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeeze plate 
You can also make a frame for decorative panel from wooden blocks or metal profiles.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
No factory frame? No problem! We can install an acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing a bathtub on a factory-made frame.
The support can be solid or columnar.
Installing a bathtub on a solid brick base
First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.
Second step. We lay out the bricks over the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.
The bricks are laid on traditional cement mortar.
Third step. Collecting around the perimeter brickwork frame made of sheet plywood. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Don't forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.
Fourth step. We evenly foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the boundaries of the frame. We immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture-resistant sheets 10 mm thick.
Fifth step. We tightly plug the drain of the acrylic bathtub. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to regulate the level of installation of the container.
Sixth step. We pour the previously prepared water into the container and place the bath on the substrate according to the building level.
Seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not hardened, we adjust the evenness of the installation of the bathtub using supports. As a result, the water in the container should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show “0”.
Eighth step. Having aligned the bathtub, pour water into it to about half the volume. Under the weight of water, the foam will not be able to lift the container, and the bath itself will take on the required slope.
Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container must be recessed into the wall, first outline the outline of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bath. A hammer drill will help us with this. If a groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, plasterboard or other lightweight material), at the level of the lower cut we simply fix a timber impregnated with , or a steel corner. We will additionally strengthen the supporting bar at the end with stops.
Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. We fill the gaps between the container and the bricks with foam. We install a decorative screen and baseboards.
Example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaic finishing 
First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.
Second step. We mark the base at the location where the brick supports are installed. Most correct option– erection of pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.
Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we begin to prepare cement mortar. We are not preparing too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so extra expenses We don't need it.
Fourth step. Let's start laying. We place the support for the back of the bathtub at a height of 190 mm, and the pillar for the front edge of the tank is erected at 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bathtub being installed. The difference in height of the pillars will provide conditions for efficient drainage of water from the container.
Important note! Many acrylic bathtubs modern style initially have a sloping bottom to ensure water flow. If you have such a bathtub, set all the supports level, focusing on the top part.
Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We place the container slowly, moving it tightly towards the walls. We fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathtub with sealant.
If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. This type of fastening is used quite rarely, but still occurs.
After making sure that the bathtub is installed correctly, firmly and evenly, we connect the sewerage system, install it, mount a decorative screen and lay the baseboard on the bathtub.
Video - Installing an acrylic bath using a combined method
Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself
Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands
When arranging their home, every person wants to create unique comfort, beauty and coziness in the interior of their living space. Home improvement involves paying special attention and care to each stage of the bathroom design, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the operation of which must be absolutely correct, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, property damage will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements and installation rules described in the instructions, especially if you are renovating the premises yourself. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.
The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and what size, shape and color it is affects not only the mood, but also the performance characteristics. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, what about hydromassage? That’s right, they also have a place, but they belong to the “elite” class, which is why the installation of such bathtubs is most often entrusted to specialists.
One of the most popular models on the plumbing equipment market are bathtubs made of steel and acrylic. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, they can be easily installed even by one. Cast iron structures are very heavy, but they are durable, strong, and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.
Before installing the bathtub in a specific place, you need to think through everything carefully. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.
After purchasing a new bathtub, you should get rid of the old one. A cast iron drain is usually cut out, but a plastic one can be broken. Next, the legs are broken, knocked out from under the bathtub, tilted on its side and taken out. Afterwards, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and sealed with sealant at the joints to completely seal the corrugation.
For a cast iron bathtub, it would be ideal to use a cast iron cuff installed inside the drain hole.
How to install a cast iron bathtub on legs
Installing a clawfoot bathtub in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern baths usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on concrete screed or on the floor, if a bath screen is not intended. At the same time, it is important to understand that installed structure It won’t wobble to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be set strictly horizontally – level.
If you decide to change the location of the bath, this will require additional measurements, purchase hoses and pipes so that the installation of the bathroom is carried out as correctly as possible and without subsequent unpleasant surprises.
Important! Do not gently remove the protection from the bathtub during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.
Installing a steel/acrylic bathtub
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic one is carried out in the same way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. Three sides of the bathtub should rest against the walls, which promotes better fixation. Well, installing a bathtub under the tiles, of course, is carried out before laying the tiles themselves, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathtub and the walls.
To attach the supports to the bathtub, you need to turn it upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to opposite side. In the places where the supports are attached, everything is first degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. If there are bolt stands, then before tightening the nuts, you should install engraving washers under the bolts.
If the supports were installed on a bathtub in the hallway, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the designated place, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set horizontally, and the structure itself, after installation on the legs, should be carefully checked so that it does not wobble.
After this, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, treating all joints and cracks with sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been completed, you can safely proceed to tiling.
Installing a steel bathtub in the bathroom
Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, you need to check the legs again, tightening them until they stop.
Sometimes a problem may arise that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewerage system may be installed incorrectly. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands requires additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on wooden blocks or even bricks. Some threaded pins are replaced with elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at construction stores or markets.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks
The acrylic construction is quite light, so it can be placed on legs without any problems.
Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will begin to go into sewer drain not completely. The bathtub itself may also crack due to the legs, so it would be better to install the bathtub on bricks yourself.
You will need:
- 20 pcs. red bricks;
- cement mortar;
- metal profile;
- hammer and trowel;
- tape sealant, silicone and level;
- solution container;
- grinder, self-tapping screws and hammer drill.
The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out the bricks must correspond to it.
Important! The height of the bath should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.
When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily drain into the drain. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and in the front – 17 cm; a distance of 50-60 cm will be maintained between the racks.
How to install a clawfoot and brick bathtub
- on bricks;
- on legs and bricks (combined installation).
Combined installation involves screwing the legs first and only then pave the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to make markings, according to which the brickwork is then made.
Important! Do not install the bathtub on a damp surface under any circumstances. cement screed. She needs to be given a day, or even more, to dry out.
Mounting sealing foam is applied on top of the dried masonry. After this, the bath is installed. The correct installation of the structure is checked using a level.
For better shrinkage polyurethane foam Water is poured into the bath. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.
You can also make a solid brick base.
Installing a cast iron bath
Cast iron bathtubs are high quality, heavy models, characteristic feature which serve for long-term heat retention. Before you install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in its intended place with its bottom against the wall so that the outlet hole is in a certain direction.
Installation metal bath involves fixing the supports with a coupling bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly fixed. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs
Afterwards, the bathtub is turned upside down to install the side supports. Use a level and an adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue so that they do not slip on the surface, or, as an option, put plastic plugs on them.
After installing the bathtub on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all the gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end a faucet with a shower is installed.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks
As mentioned above, a cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and cannot be handled alone. Therefore, experts suggest using a combined installation option: on legs and bricks.
After installing the bathtub on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.
Important! A siphon for cast iron bathtubs must be purchased immediately of high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.
As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast iron bathtub can also be supported by racks, vertical posts installed around the perimeter of the structure. Installation on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid water spilling onto the floor.
How to install a bathtub on bricks
About how to install steel bath on bricks, we will not tell you, since the process is identical to that described above. Due to the fact that steel structures have the ability to sag; support, of course, is best placed along the entire bottom.
There is another method of installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on supports. Such baths require grounding. If the wiring suddenly becomes faulty, grounding can save lives.
Finishing
As for the decor, this process is carried out after all work on the bathroom is completed, when it is already fully installed and secured. Bathtub lining can be done using tiles, drywall, a special protective screen made of plastic, depending on your desires and capabilities. But when sewing up the bathtub, you should provide a window for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.
The bathroom occupies an important place in the life of a modern person. In fact, this is the place, well after the bedroom of course, where a person begins and ends his day. A place where we put ourselves in order, a place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room in which we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!
And despite a large number of the functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people find themselves in such a bathroom at the same time and are unlikely to be able to separate.
It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of space will depend on how it is installed. free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures. Taking into account the fact that until recently in most housing stock very little space was allocated for this premises, when carrying out major correct installation This huge water container is of paramount importance.
The issue of organizing space
Now we will consider the issue of bathtub installation, connection to sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.
Of course, despite the small size of the room, I want to put this ancient invention longer, so that the length allows you not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue that has accumulated during the day. Therefore, before installation is carried out, you need to ask yourself another question: - Where in bathroom Is it generally the best place to place it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during “Soviet” times is not a fact that this is the best option.
I will tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathroom was located along a long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.
After thinking a little, I decided to put it along short wall room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and free up space as much as possible. As always, I wanted a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bathtub along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of water poured.
To do this, it was necessary to make a groove 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the groove longer, to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.
He brought the bathtub, inserted it into the groove at one end and, as if on rails in the grooves, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of the four hundred liter tank. The work is certainly hard, but it’s better to spend a little effort and time so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.
But it is so, lyrical digression, how you can save existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I’ll move on to a description of how to install a bathtub - our main question.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub yourself
The technology for installing cast iron and steel bathing tanks will be approximately the same, with the exception that a cast iron bathtub weighs a lot and, accordingly, it is harder to work with it. Step by step this process will look like this:
Step 1. We screw the legs, which are in an inverted position, onto the bathtub.
On cast iron baths Due to its manufacture using casting, sometimes there are sagging (casting defects) at the places where the legs are installed. These bulges prevent the leg from completely and properly adhering to the body, and in this case it is recommended to use abrasive wheel, attached to grinding machine(grinder), remove excess metal. Under no circumstances should the sagging be knocked with a hammer (mechanically knocked down with a chisel). Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new item.
Step 2. We bring the bathroom in and install it in place.
I performed this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our “artificial sea” as close as possible to the wall and adhere the tiles to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, and sealing it is not difficult. In my case, when grouting the joints, I simply went through the grout and the seam between the bathtub and the wall.
Step 3. We install the bathtub to the desired height.
At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed-in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drainage system at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to place pads under the legs until the required height difference is formed.
Step 4. We adjust the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
To do this, apply a level in the longitudinal and transverse directions to the edge of the bathtub.
By screwing or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontal position. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is caused by technological feature casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.
At this stage, after finishing the horizontal position, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the grooves along which the installation was carried out in place.
Additionally, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the adjusting bolts of the legs.
Step 5. Installation of sewer drain.
The water seal for draining water from the bathtub is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.
So let's start with assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.
- We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;
Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be facing towards the ends of the tube.
- We put a fastening plastic nut and a sealing gasket on the drain hose;
We also orient the gasket with its thin side towards the nearest end of the tube.
- We put the fastening nuts and sealing gaskets on the components of the drain body;
- We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end and part of the body to the other;
The result is a system of tubes that forms a water seal. Water constantly stands in it and prevents penetration unpleasant odors sewer system into our premises.
Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must fit into the inner diameter of the other mating part, and, pressing it with a plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.
- We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.
We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with the connecting nut.
- We collect the overflow.
Having put on the rubber sealing ring, insert the body of the overflow system with inside baths. We apply a decorative metal plate on the front side and secure the entire structure by tightening the bolt.
- From the inside of the bathtub, insert a tube into the overflow body that connects the overflow and the drain body;
- We fix the drain body to the bathtub. First, insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bathtub.
We place the thin side of the gasket on the front side of the bathtub, the thick one under the bathtub from the bottom of the drain hole.
- We attach the drain body from the inside, and from the front side of the bathtub we place a metal drain neck on the drain hole.
This completes the installation of the bathtub and its connection. You can turn on the water and check all connections for leaks. If digging is detected, it is necessary to slightly tighten the connecting nuts. All plastic nuts are tightened by hand without the use of any tools. Usually this force is quite enough for a high-quality and leak-free connection.
At this point, the installation of the bathtub; the connection to the sewer system can be considered closed.
In the following articles we will continue to talk simply and in our own words about complex things in construction and repair.
Rationally located and trouble-free plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the owners. Its flawless connection is a guarantee good relations with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, you need professional installation, the price of which not everyone agrees with.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with detailed description the process of installing and connecting plumbing fixtures made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. We thoroughly outline the nuances of connecting to the sewerage system. The information we present is supplemented by photo collections, diagrams, and videos.
Modern industry offers us baths different shapes and colors made from various materials. Due to the variety of models, the home owner is always faced with the problem of choice.
If the shape of the container and its color concern us more from an aesthetic point of view, then the important performance characteristics of the product depend on the material of manufacture: its practicality, appearance and durability.
In addition to the material, dimensions and configuration of the bowl, the choice of bath is influenced by the size of the hygienic room, the height of the sides that is convenient for all members of the family, the presence additional accessories and functions
In the production of bath bowls the following are used:
- Steel. Steel plumbing attracts at an affordable price, abundant assortment. Thanks to its lightness, installation can be completed without the help of assistants. The disadvantages include high heat transfer, the ability to deform, sag under the weight of large people, and “noisiness” when taking water into the bowl.
- Cast iron. Expensive, reliable, durable. It does not make noise when filling with water and perfectly maintains the temperature in the container. Due to the impressive weight of the installation cast iron bath impossible to do alone. Plumbing fixtures are quite fragile; if handled carelessly, you can break the bowl or damage the enamel.
- Acrylic. Lightweight and inexpensive option, which is easier and more logical to replace than to repair. It doesn’t sound when filling with water, it retains heat, but it doesn’t last long enough and isn’t very stable. You can easily handle the installation yourself.
If there are people in the family with impressive weight, it is advisable to install sanitary containers made of steel and acrylic on pedestals made of brick or additional supports constructed from it.
These measures will ensure stability and stabilize the position of the bottom. For owners with a less solid build, instead of capital brick fixtures, it is enough to install an additional frame made of a bar or a steel profile.
Features of installing a cast iron bathtub
Cast iron is a heavy material. And the bathtub made from it has a lot of weight. So that this massive object does not damage doorways and furniture, need to be properly organized installation work. The bathtub should be adjusted and connected directly in the bathroom, without moving the container to other rooms.
Some cast iron bathtubs can be equipped with decorative legs. Such models become a real interior decoration and a designer find. If, in the process of adjusting the level of such a bathtub, you use raising gaskets, you can completely destroy all the efforts of the designer.
Check out the legs of this charming cast iron model. Of course, it is impossible to unscrew or lengthen them by placing some materials under them, but they must stand on a perfectly flat surface
You can get around this point by filing the legs at the base, but only a professional can perform this work efficiently.
There are also special features when connecting the drain to the sewer. It's better not to put it on its side. You can simply lift the front of the container. This will create additional space, which will be enough to complete the work. The structure should be temporarily fixed in the desired condition using wooden blocks.
The general principle of performing the work is maximum accuracy and no possibility of moving a heavy container.
A guide to installing a cast iron container on bricks, if there is a need for this solution, can be found in the section posted on our website.
The nuances of installing a plastic bathtub
Plastic bathtubs are a cheap analogue of acrylic models, therefore the installation process for these models is similar to each other. But of course there is a difference. For plastic construction a special pillow must be created, the task of which is to relieve the load on the bottom of the product.
The pillow can be made of wood (larch) or cement. Bathtubs made of plastic should be used very carefully. Groom her with aggressive detergents Absolutely forbidden. If these nuances are ignored, then after 7, or even 5 years, the bathtub will need to be thrown out.
Construction of a bath screen
The space between the bathtub and the floor does not need to be closed if the outer surface of the model has an attractive appearance. But more often we still try to close this gap.
This can be done using, for example, . This bathroom accessory is sold in stores, but some people prefer homemade screens. Homemade products attract with their uniqueness and low cost.
Those who think that a bathtub screen is only used to cover the side of the bathtub are mistaken. It can become a storage place for all kinds of household chemicals and hygiene products
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Installing any bathtub is not as easy as it might seem. This video presents some editing nuances that you should pay attention to. Take a look and see if you can do this job yourself:
The theory of how to install different types DIY baths, we have outlined for you. All that remains is to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. We warn you that theory is not always easily translated into practice.
You will have to skillfully use different instruments, as well as demonstrate knowledge of the intricacies of the installation process. Special attention should be given to cast iron products. Take reasonable care to avoid injury to your hands and feet.
You can ask a question or tell us about how you installed the bathtub yourself and connected it to the sewer in the block below. Please comment and share useful information. We and site visitors are interested in your opinion.