Independent insulation of the balcony. How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands - the simplest and most effective ways to carry out the work. Basic rules for floor insulation

If your apartment or house has a balcony, then you should definitely use it, since it is an additional, and sometimes simply necessary, area. If you approach the issue with imagination and think through all the nuances, you can end up with a small but very cozy room. In order for a balcony to serve as a room, it must be insulated. How to insulate the balcony inside is decided by each owner independently, taking into account his financial capabilities and pressing needs. But a few words should be said about the nuances of the process and the materials used to insulate the balcony. You need to choose these materials very carefully and pay attention to all the characteristics.

You need to start mastering any balcony with an objective assessment of its condition. If the apartment is located in a new building that has recently been handed over to residents, then you need to pay attention to the material from which the balcony structure is made. Also, in new houses, you need to pay attention to what the neighbors’ balconies are decorated with. Often in such houses neighbors try to adhere to the same style.

We make masonry from foam blocks

But if the balcony is far from new apartment and it has always been used as open space, then the work will have to start with strengthening the balcony. Strengthening includes both the reconstruction of the concrete balcony platform and the strengthening of the metal handrail. Also, this process may include such an event as strengthening the lower part of the upper balcony; this must also be taken into account. After addressing all these issues and choosing the material for external cladding loggia (balcony), you can move on to interior decoration. To simplify this stage, you can lay a wall of bricks or foam blocks up to half of the balcony, directly to the double-glazed windows. This will save on insulation.

Advice: If all stages of insulation are carried out at the same time, then it is better to immediately install double glass in the windows, since one glass gives 70% more heat loss in cold weather.

Preparing for insulation

To begin insulating the inside of the balcony with any materials, you need to make preparations. Having chosen the material for insulation, you need to create a special wooden sheathing under it, on which it will then be attached. The exception is roll materials, which can be mounted under the sheathing. This frame is made from beams with a cross-section of about 4-5 cm. Transverse and perpendicular beams must be fastened so that squares of 50 by 50 cm are obtained. The sheathing can also be made from metal profile, but this material is somewhat more expensive than wooden blocks. Main advantages metal frame is ease of design and ease of use.

Note: When calculating the required insulation for a balcony inside, you need to take into account not only the dimensions of the walls, but the floor and ceiling, since these two positions also need insulation.

Material selection

In the crate with inside Insulation is installed on the balcony, which can be:

Foam insulation is one of the most common methods of thermal insulation of balconies and loggias

Styrofoam. The cheapest of these materials is simple white foam, 5 cm thick. If you are insulating a room in cold latitudes, you can take thicker polystyrene foam; it can reach a thickness of up to 10 cm. It can be easily cut into required amount parts, and you can not additionally strengthen them with anything, but immediately lay them in the cells of the sheathing under the finishing materials. The material is absolutely safe both when working with it and during subsequent use. The insulation is completely odorless, does not emit toxic substances, and styrene fumes in small quantities do not affect human health. Installation of the material occurs without the formation of dust.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool. Mineral wool is a little more expensive, but its sound insulation properties are much higher, so if you need to get rid of extraneous sounds, it is better to use it. This material is completely natural and completely fireproof. The combustion temperature of mineral wool starts from a thousand degrees. The inconvenience of laying mineral wool briquettes lies in the mandatory compliance with safety precautions. The material contains small glass particles that cause itching of the skin. Installation must be carried out in protected special clothing, safety glasses and a respirator.

Expanded clay. The material is an environmentally friendly insulation. The word “expanded clay” is translated from Greek as “burnt clay”. The material is often used for insulation of floors and ceilings. It is not entirely profitable for them to insulate the walls, since they additionally need to prepare a metal mesh as a support.

Installation of high-quality double-glazed windows plays a big role in insulating a balcony or loggia. - you will find the answer here.

Penofol. This material is one of the thermal insulation products that has a reflective effect. It is a layer of foamed self-extinguishing polyethylene with closed air pores. Coated with high quality aluminum, 14 microns thick and 99.4% pure on one or both sides. Penofol is a universal material with steam, hydro, wind and sound insulation properties. The material has the appearance of a thin, flexible, light and environmentally friendly structure. It can be used as an additional vapor barrier; it is very convenient to work with, since it is sold in rolls and is easy to cut even with ordinary scissors. This material protects the room from external moisture and eliminates condensation from the room.

Penoplex. It is a new material specially designed for room insulation. The material is very convenient to install due to its light weight, so its use on the balcony is now relevant. It is produced in the form of rectangular slabs different thicknesses, which can be easily cut with a stationery knife. It is also possible to produce “sandwich panels” using the casting method. Insulation with a rough surface makes it easy to attach and glue them to other materials.

Izolon

Izolon. It is also a universal material in terms of use. Confirmed safety for use as insulation and vapor barrier element. Excellent soundproofing characteristics.

The degree of thermal conductivity compares:

  • with 15 cm brickwork
  • with 4.5 cm wood
  • with 4.5 cm mineral wool
  • with 1.2 cm polystyrene foam

Reduces noise by at least 18 dB.

These are the main materials for creating an insulating layer, which are now easy to find in any hardware store. We hope you now have more information About, How can you insulate a balcony from the inside?, and then we’ll look at how to do this.

How to insulate

One of the optimal methods for laying insulation is layer-by-layer laying:

  • First, the surface is waterproofed
  • The next layer is the selected insulating material, which is also secured with appropriate fasteners. These can be nails, screws, plastic fasteners with wide heads.
  • Then a vapor barrier is laid, which is secured with a construction stapler.
  • On final stage, finishing material is attached to the sheathing using special fastening materials

Sheets of foam plastic are installed in the sheathing, and the joints are covered with polyurethane foam

The result should be a layer approximately 60 - 70 mm thick, this is the distance from the outer layer to the finishing layer. Depending on the climatic conditions this size may vary. You must understand that any layer of insulation requires financial costs and labor, so it is better to immediately build a balcony conscientiously and not try to save on trifles.

In a situation with insulating the floor on the balcony the sequence is also the same. If it is decided to fill the floor with concrete, then expanded clay is laid first and the solution is distributed on top of it. Concrete mortar you need to carefully distribute it using a special rule and try to make the surface as smooth as possible. Then ceramic tiles or other finishing materials can be laid on such a surface. Under finishing you can lay rolled heated floors, and this will provide additional insulation of the room.

Video instructions for self-installation of a plasterboard ceiling are available at this address

If you choose the option of a wooden floor, then guide logs are first laid, between which the insulation is laid. Then a finishing board or chipboard is laid on the logs. Laying chipboard is necessary if laminate or linoleum will be installed further. It is also worth noting that under the laminate it is necessary to lay special substrate, which will provide additional thermal insulation. When the finishing of the walls and floors is completed, skirting boards are installed to hide the joints of the finishing.

In the complex of works on insulating a balcony, it is necessary to pay attention to the ceiling. The insulation process is carried out according to the same scheme as walls and floors. The task will be complicated when the balcony or loggia is on the top floor and there is no ceiling. In this case, you need to take into account the additional costs of installing the ceiling and roof.

When working on insulating a balcony, you should not fuss and rush, this can lead to unreasonably high consumption of material. If you approach the matter carefully and carry out constant calculations, you can acquire a full-fledged additional room for little money.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article “Insulation for a balcony inside - choosing materials,” which shows in detail the entire process of insulating a balcony using penoplex and penofol.

Every owner of an apartment with a balcony can, to a certain extent, be considered a happy person. Due to this part of the apartment, you can expand the area of ​​your home. The balcony can be used not only as a place to store old things. With some effort, you can arrange a study there.

However, in order to create a room on the balcony with comfortable conditions, in which you could be without outerwear in winter time, it is necessary to take care of its additional insulation. There are quite a few options for thermal insulation of this structure. Which one to choose, each owner decides for himself. Let's look at the most common ways to insulate a balcony to turn it into a multifunctional room.

Basic concepts when working on balcony insulation

First, you need to separate the two closely related concepts of “balcony” and “loggia”. Many people confuse them, believing that there is no difference between them. However, there is a difference.

If we talk about a balcony, it is a remote-type structure that completely extends beyond the building. Acts as a floor on the balcony concrete slab which is built into the wall. Along its perimeter it has a metal lattice fence. In the process of insulating the balcony this the grille can be sheathed with any material, namely:

  • plastic;
  • plywood;
  • steel sheets.

But a loggia is a room in which only one side is open. It can be fenced with a parapet made of:

  • metal;
  • bricks;
  • concrete;
  • plastic.

How to insulate a balcony yourself: insulation diagram and work plan

If you set out to insulate the balcony yourself, then you need to start work by creating a glazing structure. For the reason that the balcony is located on the street and when created it is not isolated in any way, therefore, when glazing it, it is best to use frames with double-glazed windows. For those people who live in regions with harsh climates, optimal choice There will be triple glazed windows.

By using insulation on the balcony, a “thermos” effect should be created. For this need to create high-quality insulation for a future room. Usage modern materials will keep the loggia warm.

Work order

If we talk about the technology of insulating balconies in general, we will note the following stages that it includes.

When the glazing structure is installed, work is done to seal all the cracks. To do this, use polyurethane foam or resort to sealants. If the cracks are too wide, they are covered with pieces of plywood or polystyrene foam is used.

Further it is necessary to waterproof all surfaces balcony from the inside. The market offers big choice materials to effectively solve this problem. For example, you can use roofing felt, which is overlapped and glued to the base. Used for gluing joints gas-burner. In addition to roofing felt, liquid penetrating agents can also be used. One of the popular ones is Penetron. It is applied to the surface using a brush or roller. After this, it is necessary to secure the insulation.

When this is done, move on to the vapor barrier device. To create it, you can use polyethylene foam with a foil layer. This material is secured end-to-end. When it is laid, it is glued with aluminum tape.

Then they move on to finishing the ceiling and walls of the future room. The owner decides what materials to use for this work. After this, the floor is arranged. He can be:

  • liquid;
  • concrete;
  • wooden.

Please note that the above insulation scheme for your new room is universal. It can be used for a balcony or loggia. The main thing is to adhere to all stages and complete them in correct sequence. Should not be used when thermal insulation works something inexpensive. In this case, the insulation will be of poor quality and will not last long.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside: the easiest ways

When the task is to perform high-quality insulation of a balcony, you can use one of several methods. The choice in favor of a particular one will depend on the further use of the insulated balcony.

On technical properties materials you need to navigate when choosing insulation for thermal insulation of a balcony. There are quite a lot of materials offered on the market, and they all differ in their characteristics. The most important of them are:

  • coefficient of thermal conductivity;
  • compound;
  • structure.

Balcony insulation with penoplex

Penoplex is a material belonging to the group of extruded polystyrene foam. It has high thermal conductivity and excellent moisture protection. Besides this his positive quality is flexural and compressive strength. Manufacturers They offer it in the form of slabs, whose thickness can vary from 20 to 100 mm. Plates of this material can be smooth and with a surface on which there are protrusions in a tongue-and-groove pattern. The use of the latter ensures simple fastening of the material.

If severe winters are a common occurrence in your area of ​​residence, then in this case, when choosing penoplex, preference should be given to slabs with a large thickness. If you live in a region with a mild climate, then when insulating your balcony you should use a foam board up to 40 mm thick.

Methods for attaching penoplex largely depend on what finishing material the owner will use for insulation.

If you plan to cover your future room with plasterboard or use plastic panels, then in this case The insulation boards can be secured using plastic dowels, which are similar in appearance to a mushroom.

Experts recommend using dowels with a length of 8 to 10 cm when fixing such insulation. If the owner plans to finish the attached room with plaster, then in this case, in addition to fixing it with glue, it is necessary to additionally fix the penoplex with dowels.

The process of installing penoplex insulation

Work on fixing the insulation on the balcony begins with fixing the slabs on the surface with the preliminary installation of a waterproofing layer.

The slabs are assembled end-to-end or a tongue-and-groove pattern is used.

Let us note this point: penoplex slabs are not intended for fastening to wooden sheathing. The design of such a system does not provide heat retention in room. Therefore, if you plan to use plasterboard for covering the balcony, then in this case the insulation is installed according to the above method. Then a vapor barrier is installed. Next comes the sheathing, on top of which the finishing material is fixed.

At the moment, many experts call penoplex the most suitable material for thermal insulation of a balcony. The main reason is its high strength. If this material parameter is not so important for you, then you can save money on insulation, if you choose a more affordable option - polystyrene foam.

How warm will it be in your new room with thermal insulation, largely depends on the floor. Therefore, the task of insulating it should be approached with all seriousness. If the work is carried out incorrectly, then all finishing measures carried out in this part of the apartment will be nullified.

First of all, you need to decide what material to use to insulate the floor surface. Expanded clay is not recommended for this purpose, since it has low thermal insulation rates and to create good insulation a layer of considerable thickness will be required. But even in this case it will not be enough. Not the best option is mineral wool. The use of this material requires the installation of a good vapor barrier layer. Therefore, most suitable choice is sheet foam.

Typically, the balcony floor is installed with a slight slope. This is done in order to ensure the drainage of water. But since the balcony will be completely isolated from external environment, when creating it, you can make the floor strictly horizontal.

Stages of work

The first thing to start with is laying penofol on the slab. It should be located metal side up. Thanks to it, heat will be reflected on the balcony. After this, wooden blocks of 40x40 cm are fastened. When placing them, you should maintain a step of 50 cm.

Further between the bars It is necessary to insert the foam sheets tightly, and any cracks that arise should be sealed using polyurethane foam. Then the second layer of beams is laid perpendicular to the first. This will create an air cushion.

Next, they proceed to the installation of moisture-resistant plywood, which is located on the top layer of the timber. Once it's laid, all that remains is to install the flooring. It can be laminate or linoleum.

Using the same scheme, you can insulate the walls and ceiling.

Heating on the balcony

So that on your balcony, where you arrange living room, it was always warm, it is necessary to install an additional heating source. Previously, on the balcony this function was performed by heating radiators, which were connected to centralized system heating. This is currently prohibited. However, there are other options for heating a balcony that will create a comfortable temperature on it.

If the balcony will not be used constantly as a room, then an electric heater may be a suitable heat source. To install such a device, You only need an extra outlet The apartment also has powerful electrical wiring, which must be able to withstand the additional load.

If there is not enough area of ​​the apartment to arrange a study or winter garden, then you can add a few square meters if you insulate the balcony. In this part of the apartment, after thermal insulation, you can arrange a study or increase the area of ​​the existing room. Carrying out thermal insulation work is not that difficult. The main thing is to know the technology for creating insulation structures and use quality materials. In this case you can get extra room , which will be warm regardless of the weather outside.

Many residents of apartment buildings are faced with the problem of a lack of square meters. Great solution this issue can be self-insulation loggias. This is a painstaking task that requires the performer to have certain construction skills and time. However, the finished result is worth it. A warm balcony expands the possibilities of using space, “ennobles” the living space and can become a source of pride for a home craftsman.

The need to insulate the loggia

Each apartment owner decides for himself how to use additional square meters loggias. Some set up a storage room or workshop on the balcony, others use the premises more rationally - create “ winter Garden"or a separate room. An insulated loggia can be converted into a cozy place for relaxation, work, a compact gym or an area for children’s creativity.

In addition, an insulated balcony solves a number of problems:

  • heat loss from the premises and heating costs for the apartment are reduced;
  • reduces the risk of mold on the walls of the balcony.

You can perform external or internal insulation. Obvious advantages external method:

Significant advantage internal insulation- the ability to complete the work yourself without hiring workers.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Various thermal insulation materials are used as insulation, ranging from traditional, inexpensive ones to modern high-tech ones. To insulate the loggia from the inside, it is better to use thin, lightweight materials. Thanks to their small width, you can save useful space.

Let's consider the characteristics of the main thermal insulation materials for insulating a loggia/balcony.

Foil polyethylene foam - a layer of foil is applied to one side of the polyethylene, which reflects infrared radiation and “throws” heat flows back. Insulation characteristics:

  • roll width - 1 m, thickness - 2-5 cm;
  • ease of installation - polyethylene foam can be easily cut with a knife;
  • laying method - butt or overlap;
  • thermal insulation efficiency almost doubles;
  • the material is used to insulate ceilings and walls.

Insulation of the loggia: step-by-step instruction. Use of penofol

Mineral wool has good thermal insulation qualities and an affordable price. However, experts do not recommend using this material to insulate a loggia for a number of reasons:

  • poor moisture resistance - mineral wool absorbs liquid, so you will have to further strengthen the waterproofing;
  • when using mineral wool, natural ventilation is required - a gap must be left above the insulation, which slightly “conceals” the area of ​​the balcony;
  • To cover the loggia, you will need to reinforce the wall and carry out additional measures.

Foam plastic is foamed plastic of varying densities. The bulk of the material is gas. Polystyrene foam has the following characteristics:

  • slab size - 1*1 m;
  • insulation thickness 2-10 cm;
  • foam density - 15 or 25 kg/sq.cm;
  • durability.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is a modern heat insulator that resembles polystyrene foam, but has a more durable structure and functionality. Properties of expanded polystyrene:

  • rectangular slabs 1200*600 mm;
  • thickness - 2-10 cm;
  • penoplex density - 35-45 kg/sq.cm;
  • vapor tightness;
  • frost resistance;
  • the slabs are chamfered for tighter installation;
  • light weight and ease of installation;
  • flammability class - G-1;
  • material is not used in open places where UV rays penetrate.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Photo of penoplex installation

Methods for attaching insulation

The choice of insulation method primarily depends on the heat-insulating material used and further finishing of the walls.

Insulation under putty and plaster is suitable when using penoplex or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation panels are glued to the base tile adhesive. The slabs are additionally fixed with dowel mushrooms. You can start plastering/puttying walls or ceilings the day after installing the insulation.

Laying of foil polyethylene foam occurs under the base of the frame. It does not matter how the profiles are attached - to the wall or using U-shaped fasteners. Penofol sheets are applied to the ceiling/wall of the loggia and fixed with slats. In this case, an overlap connection is acceptable, and the joining strip can be taped.

Insulation under the base of the frame is only possible when using thin insulation up to 20 mm thick. Pressing thicker thermal insulation will affect the rigidity of the slats and fastenings

If you plan to line the balcony with plasterboard or PVC, MDF panels, then lay thermal insulation material It is advisable to fit into frame cells. 15-density foam or mineral wool is used as insulation. The disadvantage of this technology is the increase in the thickness of the thermal insulation “pie”.

Options for arranging a “warm” floor

The technology for insulating the floor on a loggia is somewhat different from the thermal insulation of the canopy and ceiling. Excessive demands are placed on this element of the balcony.

There are several main options for arranging a “warm floor”:


Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Below are step-by-step instructions for insulating a loggia with penoplex.

Tools and materials

To work you will need:

  • foam boards;
  • construction level, stationery knife, marker;
  • PVC pipes for laying cables;
  • container for mixing glue;
  • construction mixer;
  • trowel;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • mounting gun;
  • grater for grinding thermal insulation sheets;
  • plastic flat trowel for grouting the floor;
  • metal grid;
  • sand concrete M300 coarse-grained;
  • polyurethane glue.

Insulating a loggia: step-by-step instructions. Photo - diagram of a thermal insulation “pie”.

Preparatory work

First of all, on the loggia you need to install energy-saving plastic windows. There is no point in saving on glazing - it is better to choose double-glazed windows and fittings from companies that have proven themselves well in the window market.

If the balcony is already installed quality windows, then you can move on to insulating the balcony.

Preparatory activities:


Ceiling insulation


Installation of heat insulator on walls and parapet


Insulating the loggia floor with penoplex: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the stages of creating a “warm floor” using penoplex and cement-sand screed:


  1. If it is necessary to install a supporting frame, it is better to use a galvanized metal profile. Unlike wood, it does not rot and is not heavy.
  2. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in dry weather. Many adhesive mixtures and primers have special features for use in conditions of high humidity.
  3. The cracks on the loggia are treated with foam that is resistant to low temperatures.
  4. The wood used must be dried and then treated with anti-fire and rotting agents.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Video.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I spent little time covering the question of how best to insulate a loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the measures taken.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions I provide below will tell you how to choose yourself suitable material for insulation.

Requirements for insulation

Before I tell you how to insulate the inside of a loggia with my own hands, I want to devote a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what it is advisable to pay attention to:

  1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, to insulate a room (be it a separate loggia or combined with the main room) you will have to use a smaller layer of material. This means more will be saved. usable area rooms.
  2. Easy to install. The more complex the installation procedure for the thermal insulation material you have chosen, the longer and more labor-intensive the repair process will be, especially if done independently. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate a loggia from the inside. If you need it, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
  3. Strength. It is better to choose insulation that can withstand external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
  4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulating pie. In addition, air vapors that are formed as a result of human activity can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, mildew and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
  5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have optimal ratio cost and performance characteristics. And then you can choose for yourself which material is best for insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's get started with the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - expanded polystyrene or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. The result is a kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I’ll tell you briefly about the main technical characteristics of the material:

  1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W/(m*K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you purchase for the job.

I'll warn you right away. Do not confuse polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are related, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

  1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional construction foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulating layer.

Therefore, insulating a loggia with polystyrene foam from the inside requires taking additional measures to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation with water absorption is different. When in contact with liquid, foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate significantly, so there is no need to waterproof the insulating layer very carefully.

  1. Strength. For insulation, construction foams are used, which meet the requirements of DIN number 7726 and are classified as “rigid”. That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of a loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose this method decorative finishing, which would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of polystyrene foam largely depends on its density. But as the density increases, the heat-retaining properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam plastic for internal insulation is 25. You can buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is an unjustified waste of money.

  1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly withstands the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bitumen resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how foam plastic “melts” when certain varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances come into contact with it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care to carefully protect it.

  1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulating layer to simultaneously act as a sound insulator, then you will be disappointed with polystyrene foam. It can protect a little only from impact noise, and only if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Foam plastic does not dampen other noises that are transmitted through the air. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from outside world. Therefore, sound waves are not absorbed.

  1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the USA finally proved that biological life on the surface of polystyrene foam is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and mildew.

As for security issues environment(for some this is very important), then everything is fine here too, since in the production of insulation they abandoned the use of freon, which harms the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself lasts quite a long time without losing its performance properties. Moreover, regardless of the number of freezing and thawing cycles.

However, the insulation in question is susceptible to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process occurs. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation it releases many harmful substances, which includes:

  • benzene;
  • toluene;
  • formaldehyde;
  • methyl alcohol;
  • acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating facts, and what to do final choice you will have to.

  1. Fire safety. According to current Russian standards (GOST number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth classes of flammability. In other words, they are very dangerous if you look at them from this point of view.

When choosing insulation, pay attention to what standards the polystyrene foam is certified to. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most flammable material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed when foam plastic is ignited.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive research. And buy polystyrene foam that contains fire retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just requires longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to foam, it continues to remain a fairly flammable material. Therefore, if you are going to set up a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, fire retardants disappear over time.

  1. Lifetime. If you follow the technology for installing polystyrene foam (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its operational properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you don’t make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this incorrect choice warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam plastic board 30 cm thick, the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not true, because thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a living space. Among other things, this installation method allows you to reduce the amount of smoke released during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I’ll summarize everything that’s been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

  1. For internal insulation, I recommend purchasing polystyrene foam labeled PSB-S with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
  2. Sometimes manufacturers mark foam plastic with the number “40,” which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the packaging or provided separately at the buyer’s request.
  3. Buy polystyrene foam produced by extrusion (must be indicated in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
  4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece of it. If you see balls at the fracture site, which are also easy to separate, then you have packaging material in front of you. Polystyrene foam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedra, along which fracture occurs.
  5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

Not long ago I used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And I chose a material from a domestic manufacturer for the work - penoplex. That’s why I’ll tell you about him in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States about half a century ago. The essence technological process is as follows: polystyrene foam granules are placed in a chamber where they melt under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto a conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foaming agents are used, that is, substances that, when heated, release gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene strip is cut into slabs and packaged in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

  • polystyrene;
  • ground perlite;
  • sodium bicarbonate;
  • lemon acid;
  • barium stearate;
  • tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of penophores in the production of penoplex gives the latter a porous structure, like polystyrene foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly connected to each other into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good performance thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this entire structure has greater strength than classic polystyrene foam (foam).

The exact technical characteristics of penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and sizes of the boards. Accordingly, they should be used to insulate various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some parameters:

  1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex this figure is approximately 0.03 W/(m*K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing insulation materials. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, there is no need to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
  2. Hygroscopicity. In contact with water or moist air the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the top layers of insulation are impregnated, which has a positive effect on the integrity of the material.
  3. Vapor permeability. The material does not allow moisture vapor dissolved in the air to pass through it well. Therefore, surfaces finished with penoplex are not covered. vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
  4. Compression resistance. This parameter is excellent, which is achieved thanks to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used for insulating floors on loggias (by laying insulation under cement screed). If you apply significant force to the insulation, a dent no more than 1 mm deep may form on the surface.
  5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it still releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
  6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freezing and thawing cycles. Therefore, when operating on outdoors it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia there is even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a decorative finishing method.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene Penoplex on sale. To make it more convenient for you to choose the appropriate variety, I will provide the following table.

Marking Scope of application
Penoplex 31 Used for insulation of industrial containers with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C A material that, like the previous one, is not highly durable and can therefore only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish upon fire.
Penoplex 35 A material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of a loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45 Very durable and moisture-resistant insulation. Used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience large static and dynamic loads. On the loggia it can be used to insulate the floor.
Penoplex 45C A self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex also has its own names. I will provide a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name Density, kg/cub.m. Purpose
Wall 25-32 Used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions And ground floors located above ground level.
Foundation 29-33 It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of penoplex is very durable and can withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof 28-33 Used for insulation attic spaces. Insulation has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subject to constant load.
Comfort 25-35 A material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high air humidity.

If you ask my opinion, I would recommend using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged sheathing.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from the volcanic mineral basalt. It is basalt wool that is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the surrounding area.

Nowadays basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted into melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. The mixture then falls onto the drum, where it is blown with a stream of air and rotates. The result is fibers 7 microns thick and about 5 cm long.

After this, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I’ll tell you the most important things about this insulation:

  1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, although cotton wool does not outperform penoplex, it is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

So that you understand what we mean we're talking about, let me compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To provide the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks 1 m 20 cm thick. Sand-lime brick You will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

  1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate into the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties, after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor), increase their thermal conductivity coefficient, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take basalt wool, and not glass fibers. Don't be confused. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

  1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the enclosing structures. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg/(m*h*Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such insulation, a microclimate that is comfortable for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

  1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high temperature melting, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which becomes very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST number 30244 and SNiP number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when insulating residential premises.

  1. Soundproofing properties. Unlike expanded polystyrene, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are randomly located.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

  1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this figure does not decrease depending on the operating time.

However, you cannot install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend installing a sheathing, onto which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova) that are specifically designed for insulating floors under cement screed.

  1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion metal parts. In addition, mold and mildew do not grow inside the insulation layer and on its surface, and insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia at your dacha. Unlike polystyrene foam, which mice love to chew on.

  1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together using phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to reassure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of basalt wool production. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of humans.

Disadvantages of the material

So that you don’t get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for insulating a loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

  • high cost of insulation;
  • the presence of seams in the insulating layer, which make it leaky;
  • the possibility of formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers when working with it;
  • high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have everything necessary information to choose the appropriate insulation for thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Insulating a balcony or loggia is a rather labor-intensive and not quick process. It is usually performed by professionals specializing in this type of work. But if you know how to insulate balconies from the inside with your own hands, you have necessary tool and are not afraid of work, then this is a completely feasible task.

Moreover, the area of ​​the balcony is usually small, and with proper planning and compliance with the technology of work, and especially using boards of insulating material “Penotex”, this process will not take long.

Preparing the balcony for insulation

Usually balconies and loggias are insulated from the inside with your own hands. External insulation of a balcony parapet is rarely used, since it is not only dangerous in terms of work, especially if you live on the upper floors of a high-rise building, but may require special permission local authorities authorities supervising appearance building facades.

No permits are required for insulation from the inside.

Answering the question: how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside? Should be observed whole line conditions and not to violate the order of work. First of all, the balcony is cleared of things and plants on it, building materials and other things that could interfere with the work. After this, they are carefully sealed with polyurethane foam or cement mortar existing cracks, crevices, holes at the junction of the parapet and the wall and generally wherever you notice flaws.

This must be done because otherwise, in an unfavorable cold wind, even very good insulation can freeze, and it will be even worse if rainwater or snow gets into the cracks. For most types of modern insulation, water is not a problem, mold does not develop on them, and they practically do not absorb moisture. But on brick or panel walls moisture accumulated between the wall and the expanded polystyrene board can serve as a place for mold to grow. Then on your insulated balcony or loggia it may appear bad smell dampness.

Innovative insulation from TechnoNIKOL
LOGICPIR Balcony
Suitable for walls, ceiling, floor.

  • saves space - plate thickness from 20 mm.
  • retains heat thanks to its unique thermal conductivity of 0.022 W/m°K (compare with glass wool 0.032-0.041 W/m°K);
  • protected from moisture, rot, mold and fire (flammability group G1 according to GOST 30244-94);
  • will last for many years (the insulation retains its properties for 50 years).

Additional advantages of LOGICPIR Bath: easy installation all year round!

After this stage, you can begin the actual insulation with your own hands.

Ceiling insulation

Technologically, it would be more correct and better to start work by insulating the ceiling of a balcony or loggia with your own hands, then move on to the walls and complete the work by insulating the floor. Depending on the type of insulation you choose and its thickness, the ceiling may become lower by up to 10 cm. If you already have plastic windows installed on your balcony, you will either have to sacrifice top part windows, because PVC profile width rarely exceeds 50 mm, or use thin insulation material, which will not allow you to achieve the effect you were hoping for. Therefore, if windows are not installed, first insulate the balcony ceiling and only then call a measurer.

Currently, there is no question of how to insulate the balcony inside. Choice various types insulation is great. Depending on the selected insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam "penoplex", penofol), it can be installed either on a pre-mounted wooden sheathing or directly on balcony slab. Insulation with mineral wool mats can only be done using wooden sheathing, otherwise it will be impossible to fix it on the ceiling.

Wooden blocks selected to size and equal in cross-section to the thickness of the insulation you have chosen can be attached to the ceiling using plastic dowels and long self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars should either exactly correspond to the width of the insulation board, or be 30-40 mm. narrower if mineral wool mats are used so that they enter the space between the bars with force and do not fall out in the process further work on your head. It is better to lace them by passing a nylon rope between the bars with small nails stuffed into them.

If you are insulating yourself with expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, and in the future you do not expect to finish the ceiling with wooden “lining” or plastic panels (as an option finishing material for the ceiling - plasterboard), then there is no need to install lathing. Penotex expanded polystyrene slabs are glued directly onto the balcony slab, cleaned of paint layers, using any waterproof adhesive mastic used in construction and finishing works. It's better to use these adhesive materials like waterproof mastic or “liquid nails” glue, since in the cold season, if the balcony located above is not insulated, the dew point will shift behind the insulation, and condensation will form there. Expanded polystyrene boards do not require additional sealing of joints, since they have grooves at the ends that prevent the formation of “cold bridges”. But the joints between polystyrene foam boards can be sealed with polyurethane foam and taped with foil tape.

An additional layer of insulation material, which will significantly reduce heat loss, is best made from thin foil insulation penofol or isolon. In this case, the material is glued onto the mounted slabs of thicker insulation, always with the metallized side facing the inside of the balcony. All joints of penofol sheets are glued with foil tape. At this stage, the insulation can be completed, but you can lay a heat-heating film, which is perfect for these purposes and runs on a 220V electrical network.

Further finishing with your own hands depends on the availability of the material and its type; if these are plastic panels or “lining”, they are mounted either directly on the insulation boards or on wooden blocks passed over it. It is better not to use a galvanized metal profile used for plasterboard structures, as it will freeze and moisture will condense around it.

If you did not use penofol as an additional insulating material, then the surface of the polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene can be plastered with your own hands, after gluing a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, and then painted.

After completing the work on insulating and finishing the balcony ceiling, proceed to insulating the walls. Only the parapet and side walls of the loggia are subject to insulation. The room wall does not need to be insulated.

The entire process of insulating walls with your own hands is completely identical to the process of insulating the ceiling, with the only difference being that you can use thicker insulating material, especially if the parapet is made of metal structures or has a thin wall made of lightweight concrete.

You can also lay a heat-heating film over the layer of insulation laid on the parapet wall, but this is not at all necessary.

Floor insulation

This is perhaps the most time-consuming stage of work, since depending on the choice you flooring, from which you will make a “clean” floor, there are two possible options for working: with lathing - if the floor is planned to be covered with building material such as boards, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used, or without it - if polystyrene foam "Penotex" is used.

Penotex boards have different densities. For DIY work on insulating the floor of a balcony or loggia, grade 45 will be the most suitable.

It can easily support the weight of an adult without bending, and you can directly lay a concrete screed on it or lay any type of coating (laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles).

After laying and gluing the Penotex foam polystyrene slabs to the slab, just like on the ceiling, it is better to secure it at the corners of the slab with dowels - “fungi”. A layer of penofol is laid on top with the foil facing up and then the cable of the “warm floor” system with wiring and automation elements. The cable must cover at least 70% of the balcony floor area and be 50 mm away from the walls. After laying the cable, the floor is filled with either cement mortar or special leveling mixtures “self-leveling floor”. You can also use a topcoat based on epoxy resins, which can be of the most varied colors and, after polymerization, can be used as a “clean floor” without any additional processing. Before pouring the screed, a 20 mm thick damper tape must be laid around the perimeter of the balcony to prevent thermal deformation of the screed.

No one can guarantee that when the temperature drops sharply, the coolant (water) in them will not freeze and they will not burst. But you can become the culprit of a serious accident and you can leave an entire entrance without heat.

Conclusion

Although insulating a balcony from the inside is labor-intensive, the effect achieved by insulation can fully justify all your efforts. Such a balcony becomes not only a place of relaxation in the warm season, but also an excellent room for growing indoor and garden flowers, seedlings of garden plants.