Construction stores offer us a huge range of various drilling machines in all price categories.
However, the cost of a really high-quality model hits the pocket hard, and buying a cheap one drilling machine from mass-produced Chinese manufacturers, whose work resource is ridiculous, there is no point.
It is much easier to buy a good electric drill, and independently make a manual desktop home-made drilling machine based on it, which will fully meet all your requirements.
The cost of a quality drill is much less than that of a full-fledged drilling machine.
In addition, you can use an electric drill already available on the farm, since the design of the machine provides for the possibility of its quick dismantling, which allows you to use one drill both in stationary and manual mode.
1 Required tools and materials
A desktop drilling machine from a drill can be made based on metal pipes, or based on wooden parts. We recommend that you give preference to the second option, since it is much less laborious and does not require the use of either a grinder or a welding machine.
Wood homemade machine has strength, which is more than enough for normal household use.
Such a do-it-yourself machine based on a drill, adhering to all the recommendations described below, can be made with your own hands within two hours, and it will serve you for more than one year.
In order to make a desktop drilling machine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- wooden planks 2-2.5 centimeters thick;
- metal slat guides - 2 pieces (such slats are used to supply drawers in tables and chests of drawers, they can be purchased at any furniture supermarket);
- wooden beam dimensions 20 * 30 mm - about two meters;
- screws for wood with a length of 20 and 30 millimeters;
- wood glue;
- electric drill;
- metal rod with thread class M8;
- metal tube with thread class M6;
- screws and nuts.
Direct work is carried out using the following tools:
- screwdriver (phillips or regular, depending on which screws you will use);
- drill;
- sandpaper;
- jigsaw and hacksaw;
- corner;
- pencil, ruler;
- level
- roulette
- carpentry clamps for fixing boards.
1.1 Creating a base for the frame
To create a base base for a homemade drilling machine, cut a 20 * 30 wooden beam with a hacksaw into four pieces, two of which are 17 centimeters long and two more are 20 centimeters long.
If you want to create a homemade machine based on a massive electric drill, then it would be better to make a larger base, since increasing its size will give the structure greater stability.
Next, prepare a board with dimensions of 200 * 220 * 20 millimeters (dimensions are given based on the above dimensions of the timber). Using self-tapping screws, connect the sections of the beam into one frame. To connect at each end of the beam, you need to use two self-tapping screws, if you use a beam of greater thickness, then you can screw in a self-tapping screw at each corner of the end.
Place a board on top of the resulting frame. Screw it with self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the beam, 2-3 bolts on one side will be more than enough.
To make your job easier, we recommend drill pre-holes in the boards, into which it is much easier to screw in self-tapping screws than into a solid board. To avoid the protrusion of the heads of the screws above wooden surface can be done with a drill larger diameter chamfer under their heads.
1.2 Creating a column for guides
The width of the board for the column should correspond to the width of the created base, the thickness should be 20 mm, and the height is determined depending on the size of the drill used, as a rule, a height of 40-50 centimeters will be more than enough. An excessively high column can adversely affect the stability of the entire structure.
Once you have cut the board to the right size, immediately attach it to the base with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to set up free space between the column itself and the electric drill, for this, fix two pieces of timber parallel to each other in the center of the upper part of the column, measuring 25 * 35 * 17 millimeters.
In order not to be mistaken with the installation site, perform preliminary marking. Draw a straight line from the center point of the top of the column down, then step back 50 mm on each side of the column, and draw two lines parallel to each other. The distance between the lines should be 100 mm.
Pay close attention to so that the lines are strictly parallel to each other, so even the slightest angle of inclination of the path along which the guides move is fraught with the fact that the drill will not enter the surface to be machined at a right angle, which is why when drilling hard metal surfaces thin drills will break very quickly.
1.3 Installing the rails
Mounting guides is perhaps the most difficult part of creating a do-it-yourself drilling machine. It is extremely important that the guides run exactly perpendicular to the base of the machine and parallel to each other.
Prepare two boards measuring 100 * 250 * 20 mm, and mark on them the places where the retractable rails will be attached. Sold in furniture stores slide-out rails are already equipped with holes for self-tapping screws, so that you just have to screw them to the guides with your own hands. After the rails are attached, we mount the guides on the column.
1.4 Creating drill mounts
We suggest that you make a universal mount with your own hands, which is suitable for installing not only a mini-drill, but also for a full-fledged electric drill. To do this, prepare a board measuring 60*100*20 for the top holder, and 100*100*20 for the bottom one.
Cut a hole in the center of the bottom board with a jigsaw, the diameter of which is suitable for securely fixing your drill. Fix it to the rail using a furniture corner and self-tapping screws.
We also cut out the top holder for jigsaws. Its dimensions and outlines are individual, and depend on the shape of the drill you will use. We make holes around the perimeter of both clamps and screw in the screws that will be clamped and fix the drill in the holder motionlessly.
2 Making a height limiter
The height limiter is necessary so that a homemade drilling machine can make multiple holes that are identical in depth. Great for making a limiter. metal rod with M8 thread.
Drill a hole in the base into which the rod will be installed (it must be firmly fixed in the base, but at the same time rotate freely).
Next, we cut out a small piece of timber, drill a hole in it and install a threaded sleeve on one side, and a piece of a rod that will limit the amplitude of movement of the guides on the other. We twist the beam onto the main rod.
To make a manual bench drill the machine was more convenient to use, on the restrictive rod you need to make a handle.
It may be ordinary homemade emphasis made of plywood, which is fixedly fixed between two nuts.
2.1 Making a homemade drilling machine (video)
In order to save time, you can buy a ready-made inexpensive stand and vise for a drill in the OBI.RU store, which allow you to fix the drill in a vertical position and use it as a drilling machine, thereby increasing the accuracy and speed of work.
Characteristics:
- height: 400 mm;
- clamping hole diameter: 43mm;
- drilling depth: 60 mm;
- The kit includes a vise for fixing workpieces.
A hand drill is a tool that was very popular before the advent of power tools. Every self-respecting master in his arsenal had at least one such drill, which was simply indispensable assistant. But such a tool has significant disadvantage It is the need to use physical force. Today, such tools have been replaced by more rational ones - electric drills and cordless screwdrivers. New tools have appeared, but what about the old hand drills? Whoever has a hand drill from the times of the USSR lying around in the garage, do not rush to dispose of it. There are some useful things you can do with this tool. This article will explore several ideas.
The hand drill was created to drill holes in various types of materials: wood, plastic and metal. The principle of operation is based on a pair of gears different diameter, which allows you to increase the speed of rotation, thereby making the tool quite suitable for drilling. It is thanks to the gear mechanism that the tool has become widespread and is used even today.
Interest in using a hand drill has declined since the invention of electric drills, but still in using this tool resorted to in extreme cases, when there is no electricity, but it is urgent to drill a hole. We will not delve into the details of this tool, but rather find out what can be done from an old hand drill?
Option 1
If you are wondering what can be made from an old hand drill, then you are on the right track. Do not rush to throw it away, as you can make an excellent attachment to a screwdriver from it. Ready product allows you to twist and turn different kinds fasteners in hard-to-reach places, using a screwdriver. How to make such a device, consider in more detail.
The advantages of such an attachment for a screwdriver
The advantages of this prefix include the following points:
- Increasing the torque of the screwdriver by about 6-7 times.
- The ability to screw and unscrew bolts and nuts in hard-to-reach places.
- Ease of manufacture.
- Does not require any additional investment.
- Expanding the possibilities when working with a screwdriver.
Such a home-made prefix will definitely come in handy on the farm, as well as during repair work car.
What to make from an old hand drill: option 2
From a hand drill you can also make very handy key something like a ratchet. This will require all only two gears and some additional details. The result is a tool of this type, as shown in the photo below.
Details of its manufacture can be seen in the video:
In conclusion, it should be noted that this useful thing, like a hand drill, there are still a lot of application ideas.
Sometimes there is a need to saw a fairly solid board into several planks. Manually such work cannot be mastered, but bought from the factory circular machine for the sake of a single case is unprofitable. There is a very simple way out - it is done small size circular from conventional drill.
It is better to make the machine small in order to put it on the shelf when there is no need for its presence. Its design is extremely simple:
- base made of thick board or piece of chipboard;
- working surface;
- racks;
- shaft with a circular saw;
- electric drive in the form of a drill.
We make the base from a chipboard sheet 30 mm thick, it is enough to cut a piece 300x250 mm in size. For desktop choose a sheet of duralumin with a thickness of 4 mm - it is quite rigid and light, so as not to weigh down the entire structure. AT right place we make a hole for a circular saw about 160x10 mm in size.
The holder for the drill itself can be made independently - all the necessary dimensions and drawings are on the Internet, but a similar design for a shaft with a saw can be purchased at a store or at a clothing market. Shaft bearing must be selected dustproof- when a home-made machine will work, there will be a lot of small waste in the form of wood dust.
A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to standard scheme: first, all the parts are fixed on the base, then the desktop is mounted and the drill is connected.
Security measures
When working on any machine, the following rules must be strictly observed:
- the place of the forthcoming work must be freed from unnecessary materials and tools;
- workpieces are fed smoothly without jerks and distortions, so that the cutting tool does not jam;
- the plane of rotation of the circular saw must be limited from above with a special protective cover;
- the machine must be kept clean and cleaned after each use;
- if the mini-sawmill is not used for a long time, then everything metal parts lubricate with machine oil.
This small machine can cut not only wooden boards. If you install special cutters on it, you can process parts made of brass and other non-ferrous metals, plastics or propylene.
Other homemade machines
Many users are interested in what else can be done with the help of improvised tools from a drill with your own hands? There are many answers - home craftsmen are already making various homemade products from a drill in garage workshops. Drill - universal tool, therefore, with a certain skill and imagination, you can make whatever your heart desires.
- winepress, you just need to purchase emery in the form of a circle and make a special holder in which the drill is attached.
- drillingmachine- there are special holders for vertical drilling or stand.
- Turningmachine small size for woodworking.
- Mini drill for various needs of the home master.
- To easily mow the grass around the plot, you can do it yourself drill trimmer.
- Bulgarian from a drill done quickly, just buy specific nozzles.
- Garage car repairmen install original winches to replace engines based on old, very powerful tools.
- Gardeners make holes for planting young trees with a homemade drill from a drill.
- When pouring the foundation for a utility room in the private sector, some users use homemade vibrator, made from a drill to quickly compact a concrete structure.
original devices
You can continue the list of homemade products indefinitely, but we’d better talk in more detail about some homemade machines that can be made from any drill model.
A drill from a drill is not a fantasy, but a real and quite universal machine assembled by yourself. The main thing is to order from Chinese engineers (if you could not find it in your city) flexible shaft from a standard medical unit. As a result, a drill appears in your arsenal, which can be used for engraving or drilling holes in small details or structures with special burs, where a standard drill cannot be used.
A woodworking or lathe for the home can easily be made based on a drill. The tool needs to be fixed special clamps rigid enough to insert a special design into the chuck holder with several sharp pins holding the workpiece from turning. The center of the rear holder (headstock) and the latch in front of the homemade lathe should be located on the same axis. Accuracy is necessary to prevent runout during rotation of the workpiece. After installing the part, tailstock firmly fixed with a special clip.
The third element of the machine is handyman as wooden block on which the chisel or other tool for processing the workpiece will be based.
Important! When working on lathe do not forget about safety, be sure to wear goggles, the sleeves of clothing should fit tightly around the forearms.
Turning the machine for processing wooden blanks will work properly if the drill has a built-in electronic speed controller. By trial and error, you set the optimal rotation mode for efficient processing wood. On such a woodworking device, you can make unique products for economic needs: for example, a rolling pin or a pestle with a mortar, a candlestick or a prefabricated candelabra.
Winch
The original winch based on the old one, but powerful drill will become an indispensable assistant in the household, especially for those users who live in own house and eat household plot. simple situation: in summer shower you decided to install a larger container, but it is problematic to raise it to such a height alone. Using a winch, this can be done within a few minutes. Only it is necessary to pre-calculate the weight of the container and the speed of rotation of the spindle.
According to garage craftsmen, a homemade winch easily lifts the engine from passenger car. Watch the video if you don't believe me:
Experts advise using homemade device, setting the drill to the most minimum revolutions. This design can move objects with different masses, because craftsmen winches are made even on the basis of an ordinary starter from a car.
The most common drilling machine can be considered one that is made from an ordinary or electric drill. In such a machine, a drill can be placed both stationary and made removable. In the first case, the power button can be transferred to the drilling machine for greater convenience, in the second, the drill can be removed and used as a separate tool.
Components for a homemade drilling machine:
- Drill;
- Base;
- Rack;
- Drill mount;
- feed mechanism.
The base (frame) for a homemade drilling machine can be made of solid wood, chipboard or furniture board, but it is still better to use a channel, metal plate or tavr. To ensure the stability of the structure and obtain a good result, the frame must be made massive so that it can compensate for the vibration from drilling. The size for wooden satin is 600x600x30 mm, for metal - 500x500x15 mm. Mounting holes must be present on the base of the machine so that it can be fixed on a workbench.
The stand for the drilling machine can be made of timber, round or square steel pipe. You can also use an old enlarger frame, an old school microscope, or other device of similar configuration with a large mass and high strength.
The drill is attached with clamps or brackets. It is better to use a bracket with a center hole, this will allow you to achieve more good results when drilling.
The device of the feed mechanism of the drill on the machine.
Through this mechanism the drill can move vertically along the rack, it can be:
- spring;
- Hinged;
- Similar to a screw jack.
Depending on the chosen mechanism, you will need to make a rack.
The photo diagrams and drawings show the main types of designs of home-made drilling machines that use a drill.
Homemade machine from a drill with a hinged springless mechanism. 
Video instruction for creating a homemade drilling machine with your own hands.
Video instruction on how to create a cheap drill press from a drill with your own hands. The bed and the rack are made of wood, the furniture guide serves as a mechanism.
Step-by-step video instructions for making a drilling machine from an old car jack.
How to make a spring-lever stand for a drill on a homemade machine.
Step by step instructions for making a steel rack.
The steering rack from the car is a fairly massive device, so the bed under it must be massive and attached to the workbench. All connections on such a machine are made by welding.
The thickness of the base should be about 5 mm, it can be welded from channels. The drain on which is fixed steering rack should be 7 - 8 cm higher. It is attached through the eyelets of the steering column.
Since such a home-made machine becomes massive, it is better to take out the control unit separately from the drill.
Video of a self-made drilling machine based on a steering rack from a car.
The assembly procedure for such a homemade machine:
- Preparation of details;
- Installing the rack on the frame;
- Assembly of the movement device;
- Installing the device on the rack;
- Drill installation.
All connections must be securely fastened, preferably by welding. If guides are used, then you need to make sure that there is no lateral play. For greater convenience, such a machine can be equipped with a vice for fixing the workpiece for drilling.
In stores, you can also find ready-made stands for a drill. When buying, pay attention to the dimensions of its frame and weight. Often inexpensive designs only suitable for drilling thin plywood.
Homemade drilling machine based on an asynchronous motor.
Replace drill in homemade machine can asynchronous motor, for example from the old washing machine. The manufacturing scheme for such a machine is complex, so it is better if it is done by a specialist with experience in turning and milling, assembling electrical circuits.
Scheme and device of a machine tool based on an engine from household appliances.
Below are all the drawings, parts and their characteristics, and specification.
A table of all the details and materials necessary for the manufacture of the machine with your own hands.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic | Description |
| 1 | bed | Textolite plate, 300×175 mm, δ 16 mm | |
| 2 | Heel | Steel circle, Ø 80 mm | Can be welded |
| 3 | Main rack | Steel circle, Ø 28 mm, L = 430 mm | One end is turned to a length of 20 mm and threaded M12 |
| 4 | Spring | L = 100–120 mm | |
| 5 | Sleeve | Steel circle, Ø 45 mm | |
| 6 | Locking screw | M6 with plastic head | |
| 7 | lead screw | Тr16х2, L = 200 mm | From the clamp |
| 8 | Matrix nut | Тr16х2 | |
| 9 | Drive Console | Steel sheet, δ 5 mm | |
| 10 | Lead screw bracket | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 11 | Special nut | M12 | |
| 12 | Lead screw flywheel | Plastic | |
| 13 | washers | ||
| 14 | Four-strand block of the driving pulleys of the V-belt transmission | Duralumin circle, Ø 69 mm | Changing the spindle speed is done by moving the drive belt from one groove to another |
| 15 | electric motor | ||
| 16 | Capacitor block | ||
| 17 | Block of driven pulleys | Duralumin circle, Ø 98 mm | |
| 18 | Return spring limit rod | M5 screw with plastic mushroom | |
| 19 | Spindle return spring | L = 86, 8 turns, Ø25, made of wire Ø1.2 | |
| 20 | split collar | Duralumin circle, Ø 76 mm | |
| 21 | Spindle head | see below | |
| 22 | Spindle head console | Duralumin sheet, δ 10 mm | |
| 23 | Drive belt | Profile 0 | Drive V-belt "zero" profile, so the pulley block grooves have the same profile |
| 24 | Switch | ||
| 25 | Mains cable with plug | ||
| 26 | Tool feed lever | Steel sheet, δ 4 mm | |
| 27 | Removable lever handle | Steel pipe, Ø 12 mm | |
| 28 | Cartridge | Tool Chuck No. 2 | |
| 29 | Screw | M6 with washer |
The spindle head has its own base - a duralumin console and creates translational and rotational motion.
Drawing of a spindle head for a homemade drilling machine. Materials and parts necessary for the manufacture of a spindle head.
| Pos. | Detail | Characteristic |
| 1 | Spindle | Steel circle Ø 12 mm |
| 2 | running bush | Steel pipe Ø 28x3 mm |
| 3 | Bearing 2 pcs. | Radial rolling bearing No. 1000900 |
| 4 | Screw | M6 |
| 5 | Washers | Bronze |
| 6 | Lever arm | Steel sheet δ 4 mm |
| 7 | Bush stopper | Special screw M6 with knurled button |
| 8 | screw | Low nut M12 |
| 9 | Stationary sleeve | Steel circle Ø 50 mm or pipe Ø 50x11 mm |
| 10 | Bearing | Angular thrust |
| 11 | Split retaining ring | |
| 12 | End bushing | Steel circle Ø 20 mm |
The connection depends on the motor itself.
How to make a drilling machine for printed circuit boards with your own hands.
To manufacture a drilling machine for printing circuit boards, a drive of a low-power device is required. As a lever, you can use a mechanism from a photo cutter, a soldering iron. The drilling site can be illuminated with an LED flashlight. In general, this machine is rich in flight of creative thoughts.
Good afternoon everyone! In this review, I will show how I managed to make a small, simple drilling machine from an purchased drill stand and an available, but rarely used, hand-held electric drill. I tried to make it complete and convenient fixture for amateur and household needs, no claim to professional use. As always, in the review, a description of the process, drawings, and the result obtained.
All previous years, for drilling holes, I completely managed with a screwdriver, well, very rarely hand drill. This was quite enough, there were no problems on parts with a small thickness. Another issue is drilling clearly vertical holes in a large thickness of the material, sometimes it turns out to control the verticality of the drill, sometimes not very much.
Reaming a smaller hole with a larger diameter drill: often, when reaming, the original center of the hole could shift, depending on how the drill finds itself there.
To avoid all these problems, critical parts and workpieces must be drilled on a drilling machine, which naturally does not exist.
I have already reached the condition when a drilling machine is needed, but I don’t know what exactly I want from it, what parameters are important to me, and which one to choose. Therefore, in order to gain experience and form my future needs, for a better and more efficient investment in a drilling machine in the future, I decided to practice on a homemade machine from a stand for a hand drill.
It was possible to just buy a stand, place a drill in it and use it, but I needed to make it convenient to turn the drill on and off, as well as conveniently adjust the rotation speed. Therefore, I decided to make a small pedestal for the rack, with controls placed in it, as well as a box for drills and other accessories.
And at the very base of the rack, I decided to make a wider table for placing and fixing workpieces for drilling. During the design process, the following design turned out (the stand and the drill in the model are different, I took it from 3D Warehouse):
The design of the box is as follows, with an organizer installed in it for frequently used drills:
Drawings with dimensions:
Having studied the expanses of the network and reviews, an already fairly well-known stand for a drill with an all-metal column and a cast-iron base and carriage was chosen. ()
Some photos of unpacking and assembly:
People in the reviews write about the backlash in the plastic carriage guide, and a slight backlash at the column-carriage point, but not all of them. I got the backlash of the plastic guide, which was cured by simply putting a piece of plastic from the paper folder. The backlash disappeared altogether, the carriage began to move up and down hard, but thick silicone grease removed this problem as well. The stand is excellent, heavy, monumental!
An old but vigorous drill Interskol DU13 / 780ER acted as the working part of our machine:
The drill fits tightly into the receiving socket on the stand, there are no backlashes, the fixation is excellent:
We begin to collect our pedestal with a box. Sawing the details of the pedestal. In the project, I laid plywood 10 mm thick, but it so happened that I had an already started sheet of 12 mm, which for some reason I took for 10 mm, because of this my dimensions floated and for a long time I could not understand why):
We collect on self-tapping screws and PVA:
We file the details of the internal drawer, drawer bottom made of 6mm plywood:
Assembling the box:
We prepare and glue the back and front plugs of the pedestal:
For the drawer we use furniture ball guides:
To attach the box to the hinges, I put a sheet of plywood next to it and placed four 10-ruble coins to create an even gap between the box and the base of the pedestal:
We cut and glue the front panel of the box onto the PVA, we also adjust the gaps with coins:
Don't forget to make a handle to open the drawer:
As a filling for on / off control and speed control, I picked up the following kit in the bins: a relay with a 230V coil, two buttons, with NO and NC contacts, and a triac speed controller (2000W) from Aliexpress:
On the front panel we mark the holes for the buttons and the regulator potentiometer:
We drill holes. Under the potentiometer knob, I had to make a small recess with a dremel with a cutter, since the thickness of the front panel is 6 mm, and the knob did not sit normally on the potentiometer shaft:
Trying buttons:
On the back plug of the button block, I decided to put a socket under the drill plug, as well as a stuffing box for the mains power wire:
We take the top cover of the pedestal, mark and drill holes for attaching the base of the stand (I didn’t glue the top cover of the pedestal, I fixed it only with self-tapping screws):
We turn to the manufacture of the drilling table. We will make from two sheets of plywood:
We connect two sheets into four self-tapping screws, mark out and cut out a groove under the column of our rack with a jigsaw, refine it with a dremel:
We mark the rounding of the corners:
We mark, take a milling cutter and with a groove cutter f10mm along the plywood stop we make grooves for the movable table clamps, as well as the rounding of the table:
We disassemble our part, take the bottom sheet, mark and drill holes in it for attaching the table to the base of the rack:
On the reverse side, for fastening I used such fasteners with an M8 thread to drown the hats, I made recesses with a dremel:
We take top sheet table, mark and saw out a square hole 70x70 mm for a replaceable insert. The liner is placed offset from the center so that it can be turned over and all sides of the liner square can be used:
We glue both sheets of our table on PVA:
Preparing clamps for the table. I made them from scraps of plywood, beveled the resulting heel a little to get a good clamp on thin parts. The 8mm hole for the clamping bolt was slightly worked out in the longitudinal direction so that the bolt in the part could deviate relative to the vertical axis.
Let's try our clamp in action, using a long M8 furniture bolt, washers and a wing nut:
We take all the received parts of the machine, grind and cover with oil:
We put all the components of the power supply and control system, the buttons and relays are connected according to the self-pickup scheme:
We do a power-up check, set everything up and fix the wires:
From the bottom of the pedestal we put rubberized legs:
We fix the drilling table to the base of the stand with M8 nuts:
We insert the box, we look at what has happened so far:
We turn to the manufacture of an organizer for drills. All details of the horizontal compartment of the organizer are made of 6mm plywood. We cut out the base according to the drawing, saw thin strips of plywood, and assemble the sides on PVA:
We saw 6mm wide dividers on the table (for such operations, I had to make a zero-gap liner from aluminum on the sawing table, since the original surface of the table was already worn out, and strong chips went on the plywood):
We glue the dividers through a 14 mm template on PVA. I took the depth and width (6x14 mm) of the compartment based on my fingers so that I could easily take a small drill from the bottom of the compartment:
I decided to make a vertical organizer for the most common drills (two compartments for drills for metal and wood) from 12 mm plywood, but glue a strip of 6 mm plywood on top, since it is very bad to drill into the end of plywood:
Trying our vertical organizer to the horizontal one:
We mark and drill holes in the organizer on our table with all available drills, from 8mm to 1mm with a diameter step of 1mm:
Trying both organizers in the drawer:
Cover with oil new parts, put in a box. We put the vertical organizer on small loops so that it can be folded to a fully vertical position and have access to the drills in the lower compartment.
In front of the horizontal organizer, I glued an emphasis from a piece of plywood 6mm in the box, after it in the box a little later there will be an organizer for cutters, countersinks and other large drills. I also prepared several square interchangeable liners:
We assemble all the details of the machine, fold and fasten the drill cable so that it does not interfere:
We work:
The drilling machine worked well. Drilling is much more convenient, and most importantly more accurate and accurate. Of course, there is no maintenance of speed, it would be even more comfortable with it, but I’m already starting to get used to what speed should be set on the drill and the immersion force for the material, so as not to squander the drill, but also not to spoil the workpiece or part with high speeds. This is all worked out by experience. I will work on it, I will understand what I need and it is important from the machine, what parameters will be critical for me, in order to possibly consider an “adult” machine in the future.
In the nearest plans to make a small vise to the machine for vertical fastening of workpieces and sanding drum, I need them for upcoming projects.