A crane is an indispensable thing during construction or repair, especially if you have to work with heavy building materials, and the number of assistants is limited. It can serve as an indispensable device when lifting property and furniture to the upper floors of the house and will save you from dragging when moving. The construction of lifts can be done with your own hands from various available materials.
Crane for building a house and lifting beams and logs
Before starting construction of the lift, it is necessary to sketch out drawings to calculate the amount of materials. A crane for DIY construction should be easy to move and disassemble for transportation. It should not only perform the functions of a lift, but also be as much as possible:
- light;
- durable;
- sustainable;
- collapsible.
To make it lighter, the crane frame is welded from a pipe. It can move on three or four wheels at the discretion of the designer. There must be a place for a counterweight on the back so that the crane does not lose balance and fall when lifting a load.
After making the platform on wheels, a beam is installed diagonally to the ground level and a stand under it in the form of a support welded from pipes. If desired, the height of the boom can be made retractable and with the ability to raise or lower it for ease of operation.
At the bottom of the boom, a winch (manual or electric) is installed on the body so that the cable can be easily removed from the upper roller of the boom and it serves to pull heavy logs and timber to the crane for easy lifting.
A hook is installed at the end of the cable. Additionally done special device to grab logs and beams in the form of the letter "P". A rod is installed at the top in the center of this device to hook it with a hook. On the side in the center is a clamp in the form of a screw that will hold the building material.
When lifting a log or beam to the desired height, the crane on wheels easily rolls to the desired side, and the material is lowered into place for further installation and fastening. The lift structure must be on a flat, hard surface for easy movement.
Such lifting mechanisms help to carry out work efficiently and quickly with minimal physical activity which children can do too.
Horizontal boom lift
A crane with a horizontal boom is manufactured as follows. A frame is welded from a pipe or angle crosswise on wheels, on which in the rear part it is necessary to make a place for a counterweight to avoid the loss of balance of the crane during operation and its fall. Wheels are installed on it for easier movement. How larger area frame, the more stable the crane is.
Stops are installed on its edges near the wheels to prevent movement during operation.
After manufacturing the frame, a mast is installed vertically in its center, on which the boom is fixed. The fastening must be strong, it must rotate around its axis.
An additional stop with a handle is attached horizontally from the vertical mast to rotate it. A place for attaching a manual or electric winch is installed on it. Another mast is additionally mounted vertically to the stop, which is attached from above to the boom to provide greater stability and strengthen its fixation.
At the top, a boom is attached to both masts, equipped at both ends with rollers for the cable, so that the central vertical support rests on the center of the boom, and the second, additional one, exactly in the center between the first mast and the rear edge of the boom.
A winch is placed on a horizontal support fixed to the second vertical mast.
Its cable first passes through the roller on the back side of the boom, then through the front roller with a hook at the end. The entire crane structure is assembled with utmost strength and can be disassembled for ease of transportation. A gripper is installed that lifts the blocks.
Design made from improvised materials for work in the garage
Such homemade lift especially needed by those who repair cars, forlifting or installing heavy machine components and assemblies.
The crane is assembled from a frame, which is welded from a pipe, an iron profile, and angles. It is easier to install them crosswise, since this arrangement provides greater stability of the crane. Wheels are attached to the edges for easy movement around the garage.
A do-it-yourself crane will always come in handy on the farm for anyone who has a summer house or those who live in a private house. It will be especially needed by those owners who are not afraid of various independent construction and renovation work. Renting such equipment, let alone purchasing it, will cost a considerable amount. And making a crane with your own hands is actually quite simple - you will learn about this in this article. Try to understand the proposed instructions step by step, performing all the work, and you will get an excellent tool for household use.
Manufacturing
For further work you will need the following materials:
- Worm gear ( electric drive should be 600 W).
- Construction supports.
- Secondary materials and tools for construction and repair.
Progress
Most of the necessary and useful tools It is quite possible to make it yourself, thereby saving the family budget. In general, such a structure is assembled very simply and as quickly as possible. The algorithm described below will help even an inexperienced master. The main thing is to select all the necessary parts and working tools for the future structure.
Important! Ultimately, the resulting structure will weigh approximately 250-300 kg. At the same time, it will be quite compact. A self-built crane will not have a very high lifting capacity (approximately 200 kg), however, it will be more than enough for most home construction or renovation work.
Let's move on to the algorithm for making a mini-faucet with your own hands:
- Our mechanism will have 2 bearings. There will be a support bearing in the upper part between the housing and the base. Below is a simple radial bearing. The inner diameter of the housing is calculated for the lower bearing, as well as outside diameter grounds.
Important! Both parts must fit tightly into the bearing. Thus, both parts are connected.
- In order to more reliably fix the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below, the thickness of the threaded and supporting parts of which must be at least 3 mm.
- Next, this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt, which will attract the base to the platform. So you will get the following design: the platform with the base will be stationary, and the body with the nut will rotate.
Important! To tighten the bolt that will be attached to the base of the platform, it will be necessary spanner wrench with an extension cord, as well as two washers - a Grover and a flat one.
- It's time to move on to making a mini-crane stand with your own hands. Its height should be up to your waist. In order to make it, you need a piece of pipe and 4 pieces of channel. You can trim the end of the pipe evenly by using a car clamp and tightening it on it, then cut an even circle with a grinder.
- Next, a rotating mechanism platform is welded to the cut end, which must be ordered based on the dimensions of the pipe you have chosen.
- Next we move on to making the legs. They are welded in such a way that the stand itself does not collapse.
- Now you can move on to hanging the pipe with the already welded platform. The rope is passed through the hole in the center of the rotating mechanism platform, and the legs are placed diagonally towards the pipe. Thus, the pipe should hang evenly, and the legs should rest on it on all four sides.
- After finding the balance of the crane with your own hands, the corners of the channels abutting the pipe are outlined by eye and trimmed with a grinder.
- Next, they move on to making a support cross and attaching it to the legs using nuts. It is usually made from various rigid profiles.
- After this, they move to the crane platform, where there will be a counterweight, as well as a boom and a winch. The platform is attached to the rotating mechanism body using four bolts.
Important! As a platform, you can use a 1.5-meter I-beam, the width of which will be approximately 18 cm.
- Let's move on to the block of counterweights - it is usually made from pieces of channel material, but other options are also acceptable. Ultimately, the most important thing is the quality of the resulting cargo container.
- The winch is usually installed with a capacity of 0.5 tons, with a brake.
- All that remains is to make a boom for the crane with your own hands. It is always made of timber, a mount with a shaft and a tip with a pulley.
- The mounting body is made from a piece of channel material, and for the shaft, for example, a piece of the rotor shaft from some old engine is suitable. After this, it is bent in a vice, and two brackets are attached around it, after which it is fixed to the fastening body, which will later be inserted into the prepared beam.
- Purchase ordinary bearings that will fit tightly onto the shaft. A seat is cut out in the mounting body.
- The bearings are secured in the housing.
- The beam is attached to the channel with ties made from a metal strip, the thickness of which is approximately 3 millimeters.
- A pulley for the cable is attached to the end of the boom.
- Next, the arrow is assembled, having previously strengthened it.
- After this, they proceed to assembling the entire crane platform with their own hands. A winch is installed on it, a block of counterweights is installed under the winch, and on the other side there is a boom lift housing with a boom.
Important! The entire assembly must be carried out in a lying position, and when completed the structure must be raised so that it is in an upright position on some support.
- The rotating mechanism is attached to the rack, after which a platform is installed on it so that the boom and counterweight are in balance.
- The assembled crane platform is suspended and raised so that it is possible to place a stand under it.
- Raise the platform using a winch. To do this, its cable is passed through a block and hooked to the boom lifting body located at the other end of the platform.
- The platform is raised using a winch.
- Having hung it in this way and placed a stand under it, they find a position where the counterweight balances the arrow.
- In this position, four through holes are drilled and the platform is bolted to the rack.
Simple devices at a construction site
Any construction site cannot do without effective and simple devices to facilitate labor and increase the speed and quality of the constructed object. Today in this article I will talk about some of them, the simplest and most effective.
The easiest way to climb along guides, two ropes and fixed guides are enough for it.
This method is simple, but there are some tricks and difficulties; you need to pull at the same time and the guides must be securely fastened.
This is a very simple device, but it also makes the work easier, since the force is applied downwards, and this is always easier than simply pulling on the rope.
A lift in the form of a well crane perfectly reduces the time for lifting loads. The only negative is that. that lifting heavy loads using such a device is very difficult.
But lifting the load is much easier than without a counterweight.
Types of chain hoist fastenings.
With the help of chain hoists, you can make your work several times easier. It all depends on the method of securing it.
If you apply fastening number 1, then the force will be equal to the weight of the load being lifted;
2- two times less than in the first case;
3 – three times less;
4 – four times less than in the first case.
With the help of a chain hoist you can lift a load without making much effort.
The figure shows the types and methods of fastening simple lifts with pulley blocks. Lifting mechanisms are made rotating and simple non-rotating.
To facilitate lifting, an electric drive is installed and beam cranes are installed. Such mechanisms completely replace a truck crane.
This is, of course, only a small part of all the devices and you can’t tell about them all in one article. So, wait for the continuation.
When building any object, be it a house or something else that requires lifting heavy objects to a height, you need to go in two ways.
The first and easiest way is to hire people to lift heavy materials such as mortar, concrete or something similar.
Second, do lifting mechanism, capable of lifting heavy loads.
This device can replace at least three people and it is made of an aluminum ladder and an electric hoist.
Such a lift is capable of lifting three buckets of concrete and can be used alone. It’s not difficult to make a welded frame on bearings, and anyone with a little knowledge of electric welding can easily attach an electric hoist to the top of a ladder.
If you attach the electric hoist as shown in the photo to a well-reinforced beam, then you will get very convenient device, which may well replace a faucet.
This simple device will speed up your work on grinding grooves during construction from round timber. Using the same principle, you can make other devices for carpentry work.
With the help of such a simple device, you can not only break walls with virtually no noise, but also press metal parts during installation and to hold the floor boards together during installation.
A very convenient device, especially in the manufacture of fencing and other work involving a large amount of work with bent wire and fittings.
I also have experience working with almost the same device when making fences, and I liked that the speed of work increases significantly.
Making such a device for cleaning walls from paint will not take much time; for this you need welding machine, an old drill and by welding a metal plate to the drill, you can increase the speed of cleaning walls using a hammer drill.
Using a nozzle, which today can be bought in a store and construction vacuum cleaner, you can remove paint from the wall with virtually no dust.
How to make useful mechanisms and tools for construction with your own hands
It doesn’t matter whether you are building your dream home or renovating an old one country house, you cannot do without reliable tools and construction equipment. Almost any device today can be bought in a store, but purchases are not always pleasing with quality and even less often with prices. Our forum members know how to reduce the load on family budget and offer recipes for proven mechanisms and tools for construction, made with your own hands.
Truck...from the old four
Bring sand, crushed stone, boards, transport a concrete mixer and an old refrigerator... The need to deliver materials and tools during construction arises constantly. Member FORUMHOUSE g8o8r8 found a way to save on freight transportation: he converted his old four into a truck!
Budget auto tuning cost the craftsman 3.5 thousand rubles - this was the cost of materials: an iron square, corners, galvanized steel for the loading body. Loading body g8o8r8 made it high to protect it from rainwater: to close the gaps between it and the car body, metal canopies were welded around the perimeter.
The rear side of the body is lifted with a 12-volt electric winch. This is convenient when unloading bulk materials and loading boards, stones, furniture, etc. into the body by dragging.
g8o8r8 (FORUMHOUSE Member ):
At our metal collection point, they give five thousand rubles for any car. This inspired the idea of using my decommissioned four for economic needs: bring earth, peat, stones, sand to the dacha. And if you install a subframe, weld a blade, install chains, you’ll see that you’ll be able to throw snow in the winter.
Construction materials lift
Another one useful homemade product, which will make life at a construction site much easier - a building materials lift. For example, like the one from the FORUMHOUSE member Ali-bastre.Starting to pour monolithic walls, a forum member was tired of manually lifting heavy buckets of concrete and made a simple but ingenious design.
The basis of the lift was metal staircase. To securely fix the ladder on the wall, in a profiled steel pipe 15×15 Ali-bastre I drilled holes and put a washer on the back side of the pipe, securing it with a cotter pin. The trolley on which building materials are placed moves up and down on bearings No. 304 using an electric winch. It is located almost parallel, at a slight angle to the stairs, due to which the movement occurs smoothly.
Ali-bastr ( FORUMHOUSE member ):
It’s not for nothing that they say: laziness is the engine of progress. My lift lifts six buckets of concrete easily!
Planer for aerated concrete
Aerated concrete is one of the most popular modern materials for the construction of stone houses. The large format of the blocks and the installation technology, which can be easily mastered, allow even novice builders to erect buildings quickly.
But despite all its advantages, aerated concrete has a significant disadvantage - the blocks do not match in size and the need to adjust them to each other. You can use a shop tool for these purposes. But our forum members suggest making a plane for aerated concrete with your own hands. For this you will need: a board 5 cm thick, 3 wood files, universal glue, a door handle.
worodew (FORUMHOUSE Member):
Cut the files in half. We cut grooves in the board to half the thickness of the blade, lubricate the grooves with glue and insert the files. Screw the handle on and you're done.
Mobile foam cutting machine
And for those who insulate their house with polystyrene foam, another homemade product from the forum will come in handy - a machine for cutting polystyrene foam, which allows you to cut pieces of the required size simply and quickly, without bothering with a hacksaw and a ruler.
User of our forum Oleg Lvovich used to make a mobile machine wooden slats 25×25 mm long 1.3 meters, nichrome wire with a cross section of 1 mm, a spring, two steel strips 20x4 mm, a 220/36V transformer and a wire of 15-20 meters.
On FORUMHOUSE, a forum member shares a diagram of a homemade machine:
Unlike stationary cutting machines, this device You can move freely through scaffolding and cut foam right on the spot. At the same time, the sheet can be expanded not only in length, but also in thickness - for this, two profiles are additionally attached to the EPS with nails. According to a forum member, the cost of a mobile machine is 800-1000 rubles, and even with intensive use it will faithfully serve for several construction seasons in a row.
Other examples of machines for cutting foam plastic, including stationary ones, are in this topic.
Comfortable grinder
Have you noticed that holding a small grinder by the top handle is convenient, but a large one is not? The big one always tries to escape from your hands when biting into metal. Having such bad experience, some are generally afraid to use a large grinder. So that the grinder always remains in your hands, forum member chichic designed for instrument homemade pen under natural grip.
chichic (FORUMHOUSE Member):
A powerful grinder can break out a cutting disc stuck in the metal, but it always remains in your hands. Proven by ten years of experience and cutting metal up to 14mm.
DIY cyclone vacuum cleaner
Dust and small debris during construction or major repairs are a real problem, which is difficult and ineffective to combat with a broom and rag. To make the cleaning process easier without spending money on expensive equipment, FORUMHOUSE member zalman3000 on a quick fix I assembled a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner from scrap materials.
Zalman3000 (FORUMHOUSE Member):
I needed: a 20 liter plastic barrel, a 45 degree 40 mm angle, a 90 degree 32 mm angle, an oil filter from Moskvich (it fits tightly at the 32nd angle).
The simple design is attached to the vacuum cleaner, and waste is collected directly into a capacious plastic container.
Many people are interested in how to make a crane structure with their own hands. Such a device can help in building a house, utility rooms needed on the farm, a granary and a feed warehouse.
Drafting
To build a house you need a crane. Let's look at how to independently make a miniature crane design for lifting construction loads to a height. It is necessary to manufacture a mobile dismountable device.
First, a design for the manufacture of the apparatus is drawn up and calculated:
- The main part of the structure is the supporting frame. It is installed on wheels or permanently.
- The rotation unit of the unit is fixed to the running frame.
- The boom can be rotated thanks to the creation of electric or manual control.
- The unit can be disassembled into parts for ease of transportation.
- The crane will be stable thanks to the creation of a block of counterweights and steel cable stays.
- The load will be lifted using a block and a winch.
- You need to assemble a crane with your own hands.
Blueprints
To make a crane, first of all, draw up a project diagram and drawings of the main components. Consider the manufacture of a manually operated crane structure. It would be possible to make a device powered by electricity, making it possible to move a load using a device on a long cable, as happens in factory designs. But then the complexity of manufacturing units increases, this will entail an increase in cost finished product and increasing the time for its creation. Therefore, we will focus on making a manual model.
Welding
All connections of components and parts are made by welding. For this you need a welding machine. You can rent it while working on the crane or buy it at a specialized salon.
Assembly of the structure
Prepare:
- rope;
- washers;
- corners and channels;
- pipe;
- grinder;
- welding machine.
The frame should be made of steel angle 63x63x5 mm. A 5 m long boom is made from a pipe having a diameter of 55 mm. To strengthen the unit, use corners measuring 30x30x3 mm.
See » Characteristics and drawings of the Terex CTT 161 tower crane and description of its analogues
The lifting capacity of such a homemade crane will be about 150 kg. If it is necessary to lift panels from greater mass, then it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of pulleys, which are a device for lifting loads. The chain hoist is made from blocks, connected to each other with a cable. This cable should wrap the blocks in a circle. The pulley allows you to lift the panels using less force than the weight of the load.
The pulley system is 3-4 times stronger. In this case, friction losses are taken into account, which amount to 10%. The greater the gain in strength, the shorter the distance the tool can move the panels.
You can prepare and make all the details in 7-10 days.
Another 2 days are needed to assemble the mechanism. The lifting scheme is made in the form of a 2-fold pulley. The boom rotation unit is a 6-fold chain hoist. The turntable is made by attaching 2 washers. The axle replaces the 30mm bolt.
To reduce the size of the counterweights, the support legs are made 2 m long. With a turning radius of the washer of 200 mm and a distance of 2 m to the counterweight of 100 kg, a load of 1 ton will be applied to the bolt. This is taken into account when calculating the design of the tool. Perform stability calculations.
The structure is taken as a single system on one support. It is the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. The system is affected by: the weight of the load, the counterweight and the crane. The lifting drum is made from a pipe with a cross-section of 100 mm. It should not be installed close to blocks. It is fixed closer to the washers.
Blocks are made of 3 washers. They must be wrapped around the cord, the diameter of the blocks must be large so that the ropes do not fly out of the washers. The blocks are fixed without bearings.
You need a flexible cable with a cross section of 5 mm. Its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg. The pulley operates on the principle of a lever. For a chain hoist, the main indicator is its multiplicity (the ratio of all cable branches to those extending from the drum).
Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.
And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.
In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.
I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.
Let's start with the rotating mechanism
It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.
As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.
A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.
The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.
Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.
Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.
Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.
But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.
Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.
Our next node will be the rack.
To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.
Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.
When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .
Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.
Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.
Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.
As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.
After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.
All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.
The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.
The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.
The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.
At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.
If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.
But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.
Next will be the counterweight block.
I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.
Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.
That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.
There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.
Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.
All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.
First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.
Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.
We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.
Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.
The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.
The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.
At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.
Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.
And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the unit more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.
Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.
All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.
Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.
This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the crane platform, in assembled form, you need to hang it and lift it so that you can put a stand under it.
The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.
Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.
Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.
In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.
Well, a couple of examples of operation:
General view of my faucet:
If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.
I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.