Homemade scaffolding from a profile pipe drawings. How to make scaffolding from a profile - drawings and instructions. Pros and cons of different designs

In construction or repair work Projects carried out at height cannot be done without scaffolding. Device for construction work can be rented for the duration of work, but it is not cheap, especially for long periods renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be constructed independently.

The purpose of scaffolding is the ability to deliver building materials to heights and the safety of construction workers staying there during work. To do this, the structure must be stable, durable, with a mechanism for lifting, lowering and protection. Wood or metal is best suited for scaffolding.

Scaffolding consists of several elements:

support frames are the frame, it bears the main load;
floorings (stages) on which builders and working material are located;
handrails to protect against accidents;
stops - for a stable position;
spacers (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
stairs for ascent and descent.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. Scaffolding “goats” are usually called low portable tables which can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
Railings (protect workers from falling).
Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

maximum height of the structure - 6 meters;
distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
the scaffolding is fixed on two side bevels;
Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding from profile pipe their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

Assembling a single-level section metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps ( high accuracy when working with metal - a very important factor);
horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then in its racks it is necessary to make holes for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and without special devices in this case it is definitely not possible. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles/m², and even for the cheapest set (frame) it is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Renting can also be expensive (from 55) if repairs or construction take a long time, which is what usually happens in practice.

Plus - there are some problems with transporting forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise development (for the private sector) optimal solution- make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that purchasing pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of what it means to maintain their home in proper condition (both the facade and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the standard). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure after completion of construction (repair) is easily disassembled, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant drawback - a limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, such a device can only carry out work such as facade decoration (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others. During the construction brickwork or simultaneous stay at height of several people wooden scaffolding unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in making the right choice options for scaffolding and the method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a shed (on site or somewhere else) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable, welded model is irrational, and hardly anyone will do it. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of types of scaffolding

Clamps. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. The downside is the difficulty of installing/dismantling the structure. In addition, if it is necessary to increase the load-bearing capacity, you will have to buy fastening elements. In this case, wire alone, especially rope, is not enough.

Wedges. They differ from all similar models in increased reliability and durability. But manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector this is not the best option.

Pin. Plus – light weight with the ability to withstand significant loads; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high price; increased pressure on the soil. To ensure sustainability, a number of additional measures need to be taken. In the private sector, such forests are usually not used. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Needed here accurate calculations And welding machine.

Frame. Plus, the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing and assembly, such scaffolding can “carry” a load of up to 200 kg/m². The height limit is 50 m for a private building of great importance does not have. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What you will need

Accurate linear quantities It makes no sense to designate structural elements - they simply cannot exist. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen simultaneously at height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values are in mm.

According to the material:

Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is only suitable for low structures used for finishing work. They are not suitable for masonry construction due to their low load-bearing capacity.
Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is universal in application. The explanation is quite clear - high strength and reliability of the frame.

By section:

Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). Round pipe 15.
Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding decks - not lower than forty.

Length – from 1600 to 2000.
Width – within 1000.
Height – 1550.

Those home craftsmen who for some reason are not satisfied with the given dimensions can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

Bolts + nuts + washers + screws - for fastening metal elements.
Self-tapping screws (for metal) – for fixing the boards at the place of installation.

Main stages of manufacturing

Preparing parts. First the pipes are cut. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the scaffolding skeleton, their dimensions will still have to be clarified. This will eliminate unnecessary work if you need to adjust pre-prepared flooring elements to the location. ends round pipes(about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

Preparation of “horizontals”. Before using them in the frame assembly, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated in the drawing.
Preparation of “verticals”. To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded on one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
Drilling holes in structural elements. Special attention– vertical and horizontal (racks, lintels). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will definitely have to be changed, and this is an irrational use of materials.
Setting up racks. The main thing at this stage is to ensure that they correspond to the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and will sharply reduce its load-bearing capacity. And it’s unlikely to make them more comfortable to work with. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
Strengthening the structure. For this, diagonal spacers are used. The peculiarity of their fastening is symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on the scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For efficient work(in relation to the private sector) one removable staircase is quite enough. It is small in size and can be easily removed and installed in another place if necessary. The material is the same - pipe.
Construction of scaffolding. The boards are laid last, after final adjustment to size. They are attached to welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding it is necessary:

prepare “shoes” with the help of which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It’s easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of the scaffolding relative to the ground;
treat the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during the work there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) is suitable, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. To fix the sections, you can use U-shaped metal earrings. To make the connection as reliable as possible, you should also take a pipe for them, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully look at the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is correct calculation and accuracy.

During the construction of the second (and third or even fourth) private houses and cottages, special structures are used - scaffolding. They allow you to work safely at high altitudes – where it would not be possible to use ladders. Most often, wood is chosen for the manufacture of scaffolding - a material that is more affordable and easier to process. Although it is possible to use a metal profile for this.

Material selection

Choosing between metal and wooden structures, you should know:

To assemble metal scaffolding you will need special equipment, including a welding machine. In addition, the design itself will require more manufacturing time and will be more expensive;
It is easier to work with wood, and the tools used to construct such scaffolding can usually be found on any farm. However, the strength of such forests is lower. And for the construction high design They are dangerous to use.

As a rule, every owner of a private house who takes part in construction can make wooden scaffolding with his own hands. To build the same metal structure, sometimes you have to turn to specialists. Although when building a house of several floors, outside help will be required in any case.

Structural elements of scaffolding

The number of popular schemes and methods for making scaffolding from metal profiles or boards reaches several dozen. However, they all consist of the same elements:

Racks located vertically and taking the load from materials and people located on the scaffolding and transferring it to the ground;
Ties designed to increase the rigidity of the frame and placed diagonally;
Lintels on which flooring boards are laid. They must be positioned strictly horizontally (checked with a level);
The flooring itself is one of the main parts of the structure, occupying a large volume and, to save money, is made of thick boards attached to each other.

In addition to the main elements, scaffolding drawings must include railings to prevent workers from falling from a height. Special persistent slopes will help to avoid the structure from tipping over. And ladders are used to climb to and from the work site.

Wooden structures

Before assembling wooden scaffolding with your own hands, be sure to carry out a diagram on which you must indicate several basic dimensions:

height, maximum value which for wooden scaffolding should not exceed 6 m;
the distance between supports is usually chosen to be no more than 2.5 m;
flooring width. For ease of use, this size is taken within the range of 80–100 cm.

Optimal height The first flooring level is about half a meter. This feature provides the maximum level of comfort for builders whose hands are located 30–40 cm below chest level during bricklaying or other work. The second flooring is placed at a height of 2 meters, the third - about 4 meters. Markings may vary depending on the size of the building itself.

When starting to build wood scaffolding, you should purchase the appropriate materials and fasteners. These include timber with a cross-section of 100 x 100 mm or boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of at least 100 mm. For railings, spacers and ties, you can use a 30mm edged board. And for flooring they pick up wooden elements thickness not less than 40 mm.

Important: When choosing fasteners, you should know that nails will cost less, but will increase the time of scaffolding construction. In addition, they are more difficult to remove when disassembling the structure. Using self-tapping screws will shorten the process, but will make the structure less durable. Therefore, nails are chosen for low structures, and self-tapping wood screws for long and tall scaffolding.

Construction stages

Scaffolding is made from boards and timber in several stages:

Laying out the elements of the future structure on a flat surface and checking their compliance with the height of the scaffolding;
Connecting racks using horizontal jumpers;
Installation of two already assembled frames side by side and securing them using horizontally and diagonally positioned tie boards;
Laying wooden flooring on top of horizontal ties, with the boards fastened to the lintels.

Now all that remains is to secure the railings and fix the stairs, with the help of which the ascent and descent will be carried out. If the building is long, the structure is extended and may consist of various quantities sections - from two to three or four. The frames are connected to each other with boards.

Should know: When assembling wood scaffolding using nails, it is advisable to pre-drill holes for fasteners. This will increase assembly time but will prevent the boards from splitting.

Scaffolding made of metal profiles

To assemble metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will have to perform approximately the same sequence of actions, choosing the standard height and width of the structures. And the only serious difference is the adapters used to increase the number of floors of the structure. In addition, some of the elements are connected to each other by welding.

Before starting the construction of a metal structure, the following materials are required:

Profile pipes of the appropriate section (30 x 30 or 40 x 40 mm), from which the racks will be made. The length of the segments is from 1 to 1.5 meters;
Thin-walled pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, used for the manufacture of screeds. Each length is 2 meters;
Pipes (25 x 25 or 35 x 35 mm) for support bearings and adapters. Length – 2 m.

Railings are most often made from the same profile pipes as the adapters. And to create thrust bearings, metal plates up to 4 mm thick are also used. To connect the diagonal ties to each other and to the main scaffolding structure, a sufficient number of bolts and nuts are provided.

Assembly of the structure

The process of constructing metal scaffolding begins with the following steps:

Fixing scaffolding posts using an assembly surface (as a rule, OSB sheets are used for this purpose);
Welding of horizontal jumpers;
Inserting pipe adapters into the upper ends of the metal supports and fixing them by welding.

After removing the scaffold from the assembly panel and turning it 90 degrees, the structure is again attached to OSB sheet. The edges of the pipes that will be used for the diagonal braces are flattened and prepared for joining by drilling holes in them. The scaffolding ties are fastened together in the middle and placed on the posts, then secured with bolts and nuts.

At the next stage of assembly, holes for fasteners are drilled on the railings and supports and the thrust plates are welded to the pipes. Assembled structure is installed in a vertical position, and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes. Laying is carried out on horizontal lintels wooden scaffolding, which it is advisable to additionally secure with steel corners.

When attaching ties, it is recommended to install horizontal and diagonal elements on different sides of the frame. If the assembly of the second tier of scaffolding is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the third, additional holes should be drilled in the racks for bolting the thrust slopes. And when building scaffolding in a horizontal direction, the sections are attached to each other in the same way bolted connections.

Metal scaffolding “in use”

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a thoughtful approach, materials, tools and equipment. It is among the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do Finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows the following work to be carried out at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

hem the gables,
make siding,
install a drain and so on.

In fact, there is more than enough finishing work. Moreover, scaffolding can be made higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risk. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing material

In principle, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, this requires special equipment and materials that will most likely have to be purchased. But at the same time, a structure of this type has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After completing the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. As a last resort, you can unwind them and put them in the garage.

If we rely on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have required metal. The purchase turns out to be quite expensive. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must be worth it.

Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. In addition, after use they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding, which you can make with your own hands, is several times inferior to its metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. Moreover, on every summer cottage can be found suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is its low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done well, then this design can be used. That's why it's so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to preserve, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Nowadays, more and more often, non-construction forums can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course they exist and have mass important advantages in front of wooden and metal products. But it is not yet possible to produce them under industrial conditions.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This simplest design, which you can do with your own hands in just a day. To ultimately get a strong and reliable structure, simply follow these instructions:

Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
Place a second board in parallel.
Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
Lay the flooring.
To ensure increased rigidity, use brace boards. Use the ground as a support.
Increase level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that must be dealt with. Otherwise, the structure may not last for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the flooring is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance when constructing scaffolding is what fasteners use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Let's take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their cap just flies off. Naturally, this may lead to complete destruction of the structure.

That's why the best option In order to make scaffolding with your own hands you will need nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the fragility of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. This is why they often break under heavy loads. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It may bend, but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable advantages, nails are not ideal. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it is impossible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Poet experienced builders I recommend it to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands basic version fasten with self-tapping screws, and secure the final one with nails.

We make metal scaffolding with our own hands

First, we need to give one important clarification. In this option, the main structure is made of metal and the decking is made of wood. This is the optimal combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively from metal.

Aluminum can be used as a metal for the frame. It is lightweight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too much load and this must be taken into account. It is best for each span to have the following parameters:

width - 100 cm;
height - 150 cm;
length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the building created with your own hands with the necessary stability.

When creating a structure made of metal, you need to be properly prepared, since here special meaning has quality materials, you will need:

square profile,
pipes for spacers,
profile for connecting inserts,
flooring boards,
ladder,
connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

hacksaw for metal,
drill,
Bulgarian,
welding machine.

With this toolkit you can build a metal assistive device with your own hands.

The construction of scaffolding with your own hands begins with compacting the earth where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it wouldn’t hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is necessary element, if the finishing of facades will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must lay the boards with your own hands. This will provide greater stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the scaffolding being destroyed, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to do protective covering. All you need is anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose; for example, plastic structures can only be made in industrial production. The most simple option is a wooden structure.