Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.
Main elements
The first step is to register technical requirements to our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.
The main thing is, in fact, yourself compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sales sites refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf file from technical description compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!
Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:
Option one - carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide selection of capacities - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - metric thread at the entrance. That's what I used. 
Option two- hydraulic accumulator. Decent choice of capacity, but has a small operating pressure. The inlet has a convenient 1 inch thread. Requires fine-tuning before use, since inside it is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide holding water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market. 
Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples may hold great amount atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones are available for welding work, and it’s extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some medical equipment (I’m afraid it’s very expensive), you can set up an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =))) 
Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended. 
Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit
Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - best option- relay RDM-5 for water supply systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread. 
Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connection size 1. Important - you need a static device. 
Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. It is also necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.
Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, we’ll make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this: 
Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs that are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram: 
You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.
- Compressor - 1 pc.
- Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
- Pressure switch - 1 pc.
- Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
- Filter reducer - 1 piece.
- Emergency valve - 1 piece.
- Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
- Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
- Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
- A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
- Chipboard board for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.
Let's start assembling!
Compressor assembly
So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with a 1-inch internal thread was fitted to one of the outputs, and an adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed into the other with a creak. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).
The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to tighten everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - the tees and turns will never be at the desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.
Carpenter versus joiner
“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"
The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled the seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you are guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category bad advice and here it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten off areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or treat it so that there are no sharp edges or burrs left. 
After positioning the fire extinguisher, I placed two more perforated tapes on top and secured them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) “horizontal” type models have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones. 
In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers. 
We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks out, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side. 
I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...
“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"
First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:
- The compressor is taken out of the usual connection diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
- It is advisable to provide protective elements (circuit breaker) - the issue is controversial; in principle, in case of any excesses, the circuit breaker should operate on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another circuit breaker, in my opinion, is not necessary.
- The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
- Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.
The connection must be made according to the following scheme:
From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:
General form connection diagrams. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.
From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block starting device. Solder connection is best, but you can use crimp contacts suitable type(they are indicated in the compressor description). The jumper is shown in blue:
Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
Finally, carefully arrange the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully to see if there are any opportunities for short circuit- each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.
Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)
In contact with
On modern market There is a fairly large range of devices available for painting a car. But knowing how to properly make a car from an ordinary old refrigerator with your own hands, you can save a significant amount of money. Many people have a question: isn’t it easier to buy a ready-made device? The answer is simple - by making the compressor yourself, you can set the required power, which will allow you to do the job faster and with better quality.
Selection of components
To make a high-quality compressor, you need to acquire all the components. An ordinary supercharger can be used as a supercharger. hand pump or container for holding air. The device for supplying air to the receiver will be a compressor from an old refrigerator; it can be easily dismantled using a set of keys, a universal screwdriver and wire cutters. This device will make it possible to make a durable device, as it is more reliable.
Important to follow correct dismantling compressor to avoid damaging it. First of all, using wire cutters, you need to cut through the tubes coming out of the engine leading to the radiator grille. Next, the wires leading to the relay are cut, but their length should remain approximately 20 cm. Before unscrewing the compressor, you need to make a mark on the relay cover.
The fire extinguisher body will be an excellent replacement for the receiver. It is important that it is cast, seamless and has a volume of 10 liters or more. Before using it as a component, it is necessary to inspect the fire extinguisher from the inside for corrosion. To do this, the seal is turned out, and a flashlight is used for inspection. If corrosion is still present, it must be removed using a special liquid.
Purchasing additional materials
The remaining materials that are necessary to make a compressor for painting a car body from a refrigerator with your own hands can be purchased at a specialized store or on the market:
- car clamps, toggle switch, fum tape, oxygen reducer, shut-off valve, relay RDM-5 or RM-5;
- 5 meters of two-core wire, equipped with double insulation;
- ball valve used in gas lines;
- plumbing cross with 3/4 inch external thread and much more.
You will also need a petrol and oil resistant silicone sealant. Having all the necessary devices and materials, you can assemble air compressor, but before that you should change the oil in the supercharger.
Assembly of elements and components
Once the compressor blower circuit from the refrigerator is broken, the spindle will be exposed to the atmosphere, which will lead to a loss of its properties. If the factory oil in the supercharger is not replaced, its pistons will quickly wear out, causing the engine to fail. Therefore, it is recommended that you first replace it with semi-synthetic motor oil taken from the car.
In addition to the outlet and inlet tubes, the compressor from a conventional refrigerator is equipped with a third tube with a sealed end. In order to use it in the future to paint a car, it is necessary to remove the clogged part. To do this, using a hacksaw for metal, you should make a neat cut around the tube, but without sawing all the way through, and then break off the cut piece. It is important that metal shavings do not get inside.
The remaining pipe must be flared with your own hands and the old oil drained, then pour semi-synthetic oil into it in the same quantity. After which the pipe is sealed using a screw wrapped with fum tape.
The water pipe is screwed into the fire extinguisher in place of the fire extinguisher, but its threads are first wrapped with fum tape. It is worth noting that when making a compressor for painting a car, sealing tape is wrapped around everything. screw connections, and to make them more reliable, sealant is applied.
WITH additional accessories for painting cars. Click on photo to enlarge.
The relay, which performs the functions of regulating pressure in the receiver, is screwed onto top part crosses through the fitting. Next, install on one of the inputs of the quaternary check valve and attach the fitting to it, which is necessary to connect the hose. An installed check valve eliminates excess air pressure when painting a car in the receiver.
An oxygen reducer with an attached shut-off valve is screwed onto the other inlet of the quarter tank. It is necessary to shut off the gas in case it is necessary to replace pneumatic tools. To be able to connect a gun or spray gun, screw the adapter fitting to the tap. Thanks to the gearbox, there are no pressure surges in the supercharger - the air flow will be dense and uniform.
This air piston compressor is very easy to manufacture and anyone can repeat it if desired. The compressor can be used to inflate balloons for some chemical experiments where it is necessary to create air bubbles in a liquid, such as a compressor for aquarium fish, etc.
What is required to make a compressor?
- The motor with a 12 V gearbox is the most scarce part, you can buy it here -
- Several bicycle spokes.
- Two valve nipples from a bicycle.
- The power supply is 12 V, you can buy it here if you don’t have it -
Bicycle spoke.
Manufacturing
So, if you have collected all the components, we can start making our compressor.Bend the knitting needle at the end at a right angle.
Using wire cutters, we’ll bite off the knitting needle on the other side so that we get an L-shape like this.
We insert the threaded part of the spoke into the hole in the gear motor shaft. The hole was there originally. We fix it with a second locking nut from another spoke, tightening it with pliers.
Then we take two knitting needles and wind one on the other. We take out the inner knitting needle and bite off part of the wound knitting needle. This is what should happen.
We bite off at a distance of about 10 cm and make a bend.
Next, we put this curl on the part that we made earlier for the gear motor. The limiters were made from locking nuts from the spokes. Fixing the nuts super glue. We have a moving unit. This is the piston arm that will push the compressor piston.
Let's take a piece wooden board and attach the motor with the gearbox and our crank system using a bracket, screws, and a wooden block for elevation.
Let's take out the syringe, separate the needle - you won't need it.
We take out the syringe piston and cut the lower edges into a cone to ensure greater ease of movement of the piston, removing excess pressure.
Using a hot soldering iron, on the side closer to the beginning of the syringe, we will make a hole for the nipple valve.
Insert the nipple and secure it with super glue. This will be the intake valve.
Fill the hole for the needle with hot glue - we won't need it.
We make another hole with a soldering iron and insert the exhaust valve, and also fix it with super glue.
For greater reliability and to prevent leaks, we fill the valve connections with epoxy resin.
Let's take the paste from a gel ballpoint pen. Cut a small piece about 1 cm. Glue this piece to the end of the piston with super glue.
Let's insert the end from the spoke of our mechanism into it. And install the modified syringe on wooden stand. Everything is fixed with hot glue.
Household compressors for painting are available in large quantities in networks retail. Although it is worth saying that their price is quite high and depends on the manufacturer and its power.
Today we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting at home with your own hands. In this case, its price will not be significant, and instructions will also be provided in which you can look at photos and videos and do everything quickly and correctly.
We make it at home
First you need to do right choice compressor for painting. This will depend on the amount of work being done. If you use it in commercial purposes and make money from it, then it’s worth making it more powerful.
Attention: The higher the power of the compressor, the higher its price. But if you are painting cars or other non large structures, then it’s worth stopping at the middle power range.
What is needed and how it works
We will assemble an air compressor for painting, using a regular camera from vehicle/auto.
For assembly homemade compressor we will need:
- Vehicle/auto camera. It will play the role of a receiver in our unit.
- A pump, it is better to use it with a device - a pressure gauge. His role will be to pump things up.
- Repair kit.
- Awl for comfortable work.
Now after preparing all the parts, we can start assembling the station:
- The first step is to check whether the chamber allows air to pass through, whether there are any holes or pores in it. We pump it up. If during the process we discovered depressurization of our facility, then we can stick patches on the right places, or treat the raw condition with rubber.
- The next step is to make a hole in the receiver. For these manipulations we will need an awl. Next, we put the nipple from the camera there, it will act as an outlet for the air stream when our device is operating.
- We attach and glue the optional fitting. It was precisely for this purpose that we initially prepared our repair complex. Then we attach the fitting itself. To make sure that the air leaves the container normally, you just need to unscrew the nipple.
- However, we will not touch the nipple itself installed on the chamber; its role will be to perform the function of a valve, as well as maintain the required level of pressure flow. To know the pressure volume, we have to spray the paint material onto the surface. If the enamel is applied to the metal in even layers, then our work is done correctly and at a high level.
- A pressure gauge can also help us determine the pressure level. Even after turning on the airbrush, the pressure should also be uniform.
The process of assembling a homemade compressor for painting is relatively simple and does not require special knowledge and skills, but its comfort and convenience begins to be felt immediately. It is much easier to carry out paint work using an airbrush than using a balloon.
Attention: K latest advice You can add that you need to carefully ensure that no streams of dust or liquid enter the vehicle chamber.
If these elements still make their way there, you will have to prepare the paint for the job again. If the compressor operates correctly, it will serve for a long period of time, but if possible and desired, the air should be pumped in automatic mode, it is much more convenient and simpler.
We assemble the compressor with our own hands at a semi-professional level
It is possible to assemble such a unit, which in its properties will in no way be inferior to special compressors from leading developers. We will take a regular refrigerator as a basis.
To complete the work, you will need a number of spare parts and units, namely: a receiver, a filter, various adapters, oil, switches and other parts, which we will get acquainted with later. Let's consider the operating principle of this unit.
- To make the process much simpler, the engine of our unit will be a compressor from a conventional refrigerator, which was produced in the Soviet Union. An undoubted advantage is the presence of an injection unit relay. Domestic refrigerators have a higher pressure level than their foreign counterparts, which is important advantage. After the block has been removed, it must be prepared for use; the corrosion layer must be cleaned.
- For such work we use a corrosion converter so that oxidation reactions stop taking place. This is how we produced preparatory work motor.
Having done everything necessary preparatory activities, we can start changing the oil. After all, if you don’t lie too much, then there’s almost no refrigeration unit behind long years continuous operation has never undergone an oil change. This solution justifies itself, since during these works our mechanism is fully protected from external air.
- To change the oil, we use semi-synthetic material. Its properties are no different from compressor oil and contains the additives we need.
- The second step is to find three tubes on our compressor, two of them will be located in open state, the second is sealed. In the operation of our installation, the first two tubes will serve to pump air in different directions (it will enter and exit). To determine the movement of air masses, we need to turn on our injection unit into the network. Next, we carefully look at where the air is sucked in, and at what point it leaves our unit.
- The tube, which is sealed, will act as an oil changer. From here we have to get rid of the closed part of it. For such work, we can take a regular needle file and make a cut around the circumference of the tube. Please ensure that pieces of chips and metal dust do not end up inside the injection unit.
- Next, we break off the back part of the tube and drain the oil into a special container. This is done in order to determine the subsequent volume of the next pour. Using a syringe, we inject a small amount of new semi-synthetic oil.
- When new oil is introduced, it is important to turn off the entire engine lubrication mechanism. We must pick up the screw, having previously wrapped it with tape, and screw it into a tube. It must be remembered that a small amount of semi-synthetic oil will sometimes leak out of the back of this tube. To avoid this, we need a special oil separator for work.
- Once we have successfully completed the previous assembly steps, we can proceed to the next steps in creating our blower setup. The work begins with mounting the engine with the relay on a wooden bed. This must be done in such a way that it is like on the frame.
- Such measures must be carried out, since the injection unit relay is very sensitive to its position in space. The actions must be precise, since the correct functioning of the compressor operating modes in the future will depend on the correct settings.
Air capacity
Where can I get the air container? For such purposes, we need a canister that is used in fire extinguishers. All this depends on the fact that they have high strength to the pressure exerted on them; they are ideal as a canopy.
So:
- As a basis, we take a fire extinguisher under the brand name OU-10. It has a ten-liter air volume and high level strength to the tested pressure. We unscrew the locking mechanism, then install the transition device.
- If you come across traces of rust, you need to get rid of it promptly. using a corrosion converter. We place the above liquid inside the can and begin to shake it.
- After the rust has been removed and there are almost no traces left, we attach the crosspiece. During this work, we created two important spare parts for the future injection unit.
We carry out the assembly
To ensure that the parts do not interfere with each other, they must be immediately installed on the base. To make it, we take a board; the engine of the future injection unit and parts of the fire extinguisher will be attached there.
- We use special threaded pins to install the engine on a wooden base. We insert the pins into the pre-made holes. Nuts will come in handy more than ever. You also need to drill a hole to mount the fire extinguisher. Other sheets are attached using self-tapping screws to our wooden base.
- We place the receiver on a vertical level; we will need three sheets of plywood for such purposes. Makes a hole in one plywood for attaching a spray can. We attach other sheets with self-tapping screws. We glue them to the receiver sheet.
- In advance, we hollow out a hole in the wood base for the receiver and its bottom part. In the end, so that the installation can move, we will assemble ordinary wheels from ordinary furniture, which are attached to the base.
- Once we have completed the above collection work, we need to ensure protective functions our installation from dust flow. For these purposes, you will need a gasoline filter, which usually plays the role of coarse filtration. Its task is to become an air intake in our blower installation.
- Next we take the rubber hose and compressor tube. At the compressor inlet low level, it is important to remember this, i.e. We will not need to increase the contacting properties with the help of clamps.
- Those. We have already made an inlet filtration system for our compressor. At the outlet of the installation we attach an oil separator, which will protect the device from the penetration of parts of the dust flow. We will also need a power filtration mechanism. Since the pressure level at the output of the system is high, here we will need vehicle clamps.
- Now we have smoothly approached the oil separator filter. We put it into operation by connecting it to the input part of the gearbox. The gearbox serves for decoupling and the output part of the compressor, i.e. We screw the cross into the outlet part on the left, and on the right side we attach a pressure gauge (this is how we will monitor the pressure level). We attach a control relay to the top of the cross.
- The control relay allows you to adjust the level of discharge pressure height, as well as, if necessary, turn off the power supply to the compressor.
- With the help of these spare parts, we will turn on our injection unit if the pressure level is low and, on the contrary, turn it off if the parameters rise sharply.
- To adjust the level of recommended compressor pressure, you need to use relay springs, there are two of them. The spring, the largest size, serves to create pressure at a low level, the small spring for maximum pressure, and it also serves to adjust the shutdown of the installation.
- PM5 were originally assembled for water supply; they are simple switches of two contacts. One contact in our version is designed to work in a network where the voltage is at a level of two hundred and twenty volts, while the other contact works to communicate with the injection unit.
- We provide power through a toggle switch to connect to the second input with the injection unit. If our circuit already has a toggle switch, we have the right to quickly turn off the system.
It goes without saying that all contacts must be properly sealed and insulated. Now we can paint our compressor with peace of mind and start trying to paint with it.
We monitor the system pressure
Now that our installation is ready, it's time to check how it works or run some tests. We connect an airbrush or spray gun. Without touching the toggle switch itself, we connect our system to electrical energy.
- We set the relay to the lowest possible pressure level and connect the injection unit to electricity. We look at the indicators and characteristics on the pressure gauge, monitor the level of supplied pressure. After we have found out that the relay turns off the compressor engine, we look at the contacts and their sealing properties.
- To determine the tightness, use a regular soap solution. If the entire installation has successfully passed all tests, then we must necessarily remove air below the level to start the entire blower mechanism. If the pressure level reaches the required limits, the relay starts the compressor system itself. If everything works as expected, we can begin the colorful work.
- To paint metal surfaces and foundations, initially there is no need to prepare the very foundation for the work. All we need to do is set the required pressure level on our injection unit.
- Such tests give us a chance to measure those necessary specifications, which will allow you to lay down layers of paint evenly. It is also necessary to remember that such painting work was carried out with a minimum of operation of the injection unit.
Instead of output
After completing all the above work and putting our injection unit into operation, we can sum up the first results. Thus, the process of assembling the compressor itself does not constitute special labor For all vehicle owners, special knowledge and skills are not needed here.
- It would be foolish not to say that the second type of compressor is much more complicated in terms of its assembly and the availability of the necessary spare parts and materials. However, due to the pressure in automatic mode and the special starting system of the entire injection unit, such a compressor is the most convenient and pleasant to use.
- Also, you will not need to monitor the receiver. This installation can also be used for painting indoor gates or other surfaces.
Attention: It is not difficult to make a compressor for painting yourself; it is also important to do regular maintenance. Especially often they fail due to failure to change the oil. Therefore, monitor its quality first.
You now know how to choose a compressor for painting and can do everything yourself. Pay attention to the tightness of the joints and then the compressor will serve you for a long time.
Many people know that you can assemble a compressor from an old refrigerator, and in a home workshop, without special skills. But not everyone is familiar with the technology and secrets. If you think carefully, an air compressor can be useful in any garage, workshop or household. With its help you can paint a car, pump up tires, or start any pneumatic tool. Even blowing off dust is also useful. Let's consider the version for painting.
Installation Requirements
Painting is a responsible business. Such a compressor must meet a number of requirements. The main one is a uniform supply of air, and without foreign bodies. The most undesirable defects on paintwork are graininess, shagreen, and cavities on the surface. If the air flow is not stable, all this will occur, including dull spots and drips. Specialized branded compressors have everything necessary to eliminate the slightest defect. But the price is off the charts.
Should I buy a unit or assemble it myself?
Therefore, it makes sense to make a compressor for painting a car yourself. To do this, it is worth studying in detail the structure and operating principle of a real, factory compressor. And it is the same for all samples. In the cylinder it is created high pressure. The method of air injection is not important - it can be mechanical or by hand. In the case of manual supply, we save a lot of money, but where can we find a slave capable of pumping air continuously? The automatic process will eliminate many disadvantages and problems. An exception is changing the oil in the compressor. Only the mechanism is capable of continuously supplying a stream of air into the cylinder! The theory is simple; making a personal compressor station with your own hands is quick and easy.
Compressor from a car chamber
How to make a paint application installation from a simple car camera? List of required materials:
- pump with pressure gauge for blower function,
- car camera for receiver function,
- awl,
- repair tool kit,
- nipple from a car camera.
The difficult stage is the creation of a compressor station. The camera should be checked for leaks. She's being pumped up. If there is an air leak, the problem is solved by gluing or vulcanizing the raw rubber. Then a hole is pierced with an awl. We place the nipple in it for uniform release air flow. The auxiliary fitting is secured by gluing. A repair kit will help you cope with this work. Then the fitting is attached to the spray gun. To control the release of the air stream, unscrew the nipple.
But it is noteworthy that the old nipple is not removed. It will act as a valve and hold excess pressure. A control check of the pressure value is carried out by spraying a dye onto the metal surface. If the paint lays down in an even layer, then the installation is functioning perfectly! Additional control of the pressure value can be checked with a pressure gauge. The air flow, even after turning on the aerator key, must be intermittent!
Designing a home compressor is easy. And after using it, car painting will be of better quality than using a spray can. When working at home, you should avoid the penetration of dust, foreign bodies, and water into the car chamber. These things can get into the spray gun and the painting will have to be done again. At correct operation our unit will work for a long time, and it is desirable to automate air injection.
Craftsmen often noticed that a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. And regardless - domestic or imported. An item assembled with your own hands has positive energy. It is easier to repair and maintain - because you know it very well weak sides and design.
Compressor from an old refrigerator
The unit, made from components of an ancient refrigerator, will not be inferior in performance to compressors elite manufacturers. To construct it you will need:
- pressure gauge,
- rust converter,
- compressor receiver,
- threaded adapters,
- relay for high-quality control of the flow pressure force in our compressor,
- fuel filter element for gasoline,
- oil moisture separating filter and its gearbox,
- the engine driving the installation,
- cross with 3/4 inch thread for water pipes,
- switch for 220 V voltage,
- sealant,
- motor oil grade 10W40,
- brass tubes,
- oil hose,
- simple syringe,
- thicker board
- metal paint,
- filter element of the power supply system for a diesel engine,
- furniture wheels,
- needle file,
- studs, nuts, washers,
- fum tape,
- car clamps.
A compressor unit from a rare Soviet refrigerator can be useful as a motor. The compressor from the refrigerator in our example is the most optimal solution. It has one great benefit - a compressor start relay! Very old Soviet models have an advantage over foreign competitors. They are capable of pumping up very high pressures. During assembly, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the actuator unit.
The rust converter will be able to perform high-quality processing compressor and prevent further oxidation. This will simultaneously prepare the working engine housing for painting. Then they move on to changing the oil. It's clear that old refrigerator if he was subjected maintenance, then a very long time ago. This also applies to changing the oil in it. But this situation also has a justification - the system is absolutely completely isolated from environment. Semi-synthetic oil is suitable. This modern lubricant has properties no worse than compressor oil. It will cope with the task remarkably well - it contains many high-quality and effective additives. On the compressor body we find 3 tubes: two of them are open, the remaining one is hermetically sealed. We serve on compressor unit food and determine the nature and direction of movement of the air flow. It is better to immediately write down or mark the intake and exhaust ducts.
A sealed tube is needed to change the oil. We remove it with a needle file, making a notch around the circumference of the tube. It is important to prevent metal shavings from getting inside the compressor. We break off the tube and drain the oil completely into a container that will allow us to determine its volume. Using a simple medical syringe, we pour in the semi-synthetic, and with a larger volume than what poured out!
After filling, the engine lubrication system is shut down. Select a suitable screw and seal it with tape. It should be remembered that oil in the form of droplets will sometimes penetrate from the air outlet tube. An oil/moisture separator for the compressor will save you from this. Assembly of the installation begins with strengthening the motor with the start relay on a wooden base. It should be in the same position as on the frame. The correct switching of operating modes depends on the correct installation and installation of the compressor!
Receiver
How to make a receiver? It is good to use a cylinder from a simple fire extinguisher. It can withstand high pressure perfectly and has a good margin of safety. The cylinder is an excellent solution for mounted technological equipment. As a basis, you can take a fire extinguisher of the OU-10 brand with a volume of 9.99 liters. It is able to withstand pressure up to 16 MPa. We unscrew the locking and trigger mechanism from our workpiece and screw in the adapter. If we find corrosion, we will mercilessly remove it. It is difficult to remove internal rust; to do this, pour the rust converter into the container of the cylinder and shake out the contents. After cleaning is completed, screw in the crosspiece for the water supply.
A wooden board will be a good base for mounting the motor and fire extinguisher body. It is advisable to place all working parts and assemblies on one line. Threaded rods will serve as fasteners; they must be threaded into the holes obtained by drilling. You will need nuts and washers. Then take the receiver and place it vertically. You will need 3 sheets of plywood. One sheet is for a through hole for the cylinder. The remaining 2 sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver. At the base, a recess is made from wood for the bottom of the receiver. To move the unit, we attach furniture wheels.
The system should be protected from dust using a gasoline filter for rough cleaning of the fuel. It will act as an air intake. A rubber hose and an inlet tube from the supercharger will come in handy. The air pressure at the inlet is very low, clamps are not useful. An oil dehumidifier is installed at the outlet to block liquid droplets. A filter element for the power supply system (in simple terms, a filter) is suitable. You will need clamps for the car. The oil moisture separator is connected to the input of the gearbox, and the output is screwed into the crosspiece we have already prepared on the left side. A pressure gauge is screwed into the right side to monitor the pressure value. And on top of the crosspiece we screw in a relay for adjustment.
Adjusting the pressure force in the system
The adjustment relay allows you to set the desired range or limit of the receiver pressure. And at the required moment, interrupt the power supply circuit of the system supercharger. It is recommended to use RDM-5 as a performing unit. With its help, the compressor will start when the air pressure in the tank drops below the required value and will turn off if the parameters are higher than permissible. The required amount of air flow is adjusted to the relay using a pair of springs. The purpose of a large spring is to apply light pressure. A small spring allows you to adjust the upper limit and set the final limit for turning off the entire compressor installation.
RDM-5 was designed for water supply lines. In reality, this is a simple two-pin switch. On in this example— one contact is necessary for switching with the network zero, the other is necessary for switching with the supercharger. The mains phase is carried out through a toggle switch for connection to the second input of the compressor installation. The toggle switch will help you quickly disconnect the system from the power supply. All electrical contacts are well soldered. Then the compressor unit is painted and tested. During a test run, the operation of the relay and the tightness of the system are checked. A test run will allow you to determine the value optimal pressure for painting in an even layer. To ensure high-quality and long-term operation of the compressor, maintenance is required. An important step in this case is changing the oil.
If you decide to buy a factory-made air compressor, study its parameters and capabilities. Give preference to well-known companies.