Many fishermen are faced with the eternal dilemma of whether to buy an inflatable boat or a solid one. With the development of new technologies and materials, this issue is becoming a thing of the past. Development from the most experienced designers from Togliatti - a collapsible boat Era 3.5.0. Many years of experience in designing various vessels have resulted in this boat. It was developed primarily “for ourselves,” but due to great demand from different regions, it was decided to put the boat on stream. The boat is made of lightweight and durable aluminum-magnesium alloy AMg3, resistant to corrosion.
The weight of the ERA 3.5.0 boat is only 65 kg, in assembled form fits on a balcony and a freight elevator, folded dimensions are total 1.55x1.35x0.6. the boat can be transported on a rack passenger car. The carrying capacity is 260 kg, which is two large people with a full head of shmurdyak. The boat consists of three sections fastened together by universal self-retaining bolt fastenings with rubber gaskets, with a total length of 356 cm. Since the boat is provided with additional structural rigidity, it can be used at a wave of 0.3 m at a distance of 1.5 km from the shore. Rigidity is achieved through stamping in the skin, breaks on the sides and corrugations on the bottom. The ribbed bottom allows you to stand without any problems. The transverse set consists of three frames and a bow bulkhead. The longitudinal set consists of six steps, a keel, fenders, a stem and a longitudinal break of the sides. Sheathing thickness 1.5 mm. Connections of section parts are made argon-arc welding. The cans are made from ABC plastic and plywood. The seats are inserted into a groove and secured from falling out with a pin and a carabiner. There are 4 spinning holders along the perimeter of the sides
The safety and unsinkability of the boat is ensured by foam inserts in the cans, stern and bow.
The boat does not require registration with GIMS. Maximum power motor, which can be put on a 15 hp boat, at full load the boat can reach a speed of 35 km/h. The transom on which the motor is mounted is equipped self-draining recession.
Assembling a boat is faster than an inflatable boat, and it also lasts much longer.
The ERA 3.5.0 boat has many advantages:
- takes up little storage space
- easy to transport
- can be carried in parts by one person
- unsinkable
- with high strength and rigidity
- does not require registration
Guarantee on boat hull made of AMG-12 months, warranty for mechanical parts of the boat - 12 months.
You can buy ERA 3.5.0 lock in our online store. Free delivery in the cities of Tolyatti and Samara and throughout the Samara region.
Contents of delivery:
Boat Era 3.5.0.
Boat hull (three sections) 1 pc.
Bank 3 pcs.
Fastening bolt with washer and nut 32 pcs.
Key 13 1 pc.
Box for bolts 1 pc.
Liquid overflow device 1 pc.
Gasket for frame 2 pcs.
Safety rope for cans with carabiner 2 pcs.
Ducks 3 pcs.
Spinning holder 4 pcs.
Oars with oarlocks 2 pcs.
Instruction manual 1 piece
I have long wanted to have a light boat that folds into a small package, in which it would be convenient to fish or travel, reaching the most distant and tempting corners of the Karelian Isthmus, in which two people could sit, and even pack a couple of backpacks. From what I saw in stores, some did not suit me as purely single-seaters (55-ruble “hunting”, for example), others turned out to be too heavy and not suitable for transportation on the same bus. As a rule, they were all cramped, uncomfortable for rowing, equipped with short oars, under which you could not go anywhere even in a weak wind.
In the end, the idea of building folding double boat, which met all my requirements, on my own. I made such a boat, and I’ve been sailing on it for six years now. Tourists and fishing enthusiasts I met along the way more than once asked where I bought it? And most often they didn’t believe me when I explained that making such a boat yourself is not so difficult. So I decided to use the collection to tell about this in more detail and make it available to everyone. (Or maybe some factories will also be interested in my boat?)
The length of the boat is 3 m, the overall width is about 1.1 m. With the dead weight of the assembled boat being less than 20 kg, its carrying capacity is more than sufficient for two people to go out with all the equipment. Even with a load of 400 kg, you can safely continue swimming on it, although at the same time it sits in the water up to half the height of the side.
Under two-meter oars, the boat has a good speed - 8-9 km/h, and is easy to control; You can freely make large transitions on it. The seaworthiness restrictions are the same as for any other double oar. I once had the opportunity to test my folding boat on a real sea wave- in the White Sea. In fresh weather, on an 80-centimeter wave, we safely reached the place.
The boat is also convenient for fishing: it goes easily over reeds, does not sail; it is quite stable - it does not roll over if you stand up at full height or even one person sits on the edge of the side.
The boat is assembled in 15 minutes, and the same amount of time is spent disassembling it. A fully folded boat turns into a package measuring 1X0.45X0.2 m, placed on a lightweight three-wheeled folding cart (the wheels fold like an airplane). With this package I can get into any transport; it takes up almost no space at home.
Now let's talk about how to make such a boat. I collected it on winter evenings, slowly, spending two to three hours every day. Of course, now, having experience and not wasting time on thinking, I could do it much faster.
The main material for the 12 flat body parts is duralumin scraps. I used duralumin with a thickness of 0.5 mm and I think that this thickness is quite sufficient; the use of a thicker sheet (0.8-1 mm) will make the boat heavier, although, naturally, it will simplify the design and make it more reliable. To mark the mating edges of parts 3-9, 4-10, 6-12, 5-11, make a cardboard template (one template is enough, since the bow and stern of the boat are the same and symmetrical).
(keel squares installed outside are conventionally shown)
increase 
1-12 - duralumin parts; 13-15 - keel square, alloy 30X30; 16 - rubberized fabric; 17 - butt short 30X30; L = 200, 2 pcs.; 18 - washer-lining in the area of the bolt hole, δ = 1.
Obviously, this pairing could be done in a straight line, but it would be better if it was a curve with a crescent shape (deflection arrow) of about 50 mm. If I had to make a second boat like this, I would try to make a deadrise in the bow so that the oncoming wave would not hit me, and I would make the stern wider and transom - there would be more space and it would be possible to hang a Salyut motor.
50- and 100-mm strips of any reliable rubberized fabric are used as waterproof flexible “hinges” connecting the duralumin parts; I unraveled a 9mm thick drive belt into 3mm layers. The wider transverse stripes are made solid, the longitudinal stripes are split. At the intersection, the joint is made using B88 glue with a 25 mm length of “stud.” I spent a lot of time on these connections, but for six years I never had to use a repair kit (I always had pieces of belt and glue with me).
a - fixation of the side branches of the frame and transverse struts; b - fastening of stem crossbars; c - support of cans.
1 - payol; 2, 3 - longitudinal stem struts; 4, 5 - folding “fender bars”, duralumin tube Ø18 with a butt lock-hinge and a sub-key; 6 - central frame; 7 - nasal transverse strut; 8 - bow can, plywood 1000X180X6; 9 - aft transverse strut; 10 - feed can, plywood 1000X180X6; hang on three or four loops from the crossbar; 11, 12 - stem cross member, square 30X30 L = 100 mm; 13 - 15X25 square, on which the ends of the bank rest; 6 pcs.; 14 - frame position clamp along the length of the boat, strip 20x40x2, 6 pcs.
The stripes are superimposed on duralumin with outside“skin”, glued to it with the same B88 glue and riveted with aluminum rivets d = 3 with a single-row seam with a pitch of 15 mm. At the ends under the heads, riveted everywhere with inside casings, washers are placed. Along the keel bend in the DP (it was made only to reduce the dimensions of the package) for children. 1 on one side and on children. 4-6 from the other, simultaneously with the strip of fabric, three parts (13, 14, 15) of the keel square are riveted. When unfolding the casing - assembling the boat, the ends of these parts are rigidly connected with two 200 mm butt plates 17 (pieces of 30X30 square) on M8 bolts - two on the side of the joint.
The rigidity of the hull of the assembled boat, in addition to this external keel, is provided (see the “set” diagram):
- plywood flooring, against the ends of which longitudinal rod struts rest with their forks;
- central frame;
- “fender bars” along the upper edge of the side;
- nasal cross strut;
- bow can for the rower;
- aft cross brace with aft canister.
A plywood floor, assembled from two parts with a flexible hinge in the middle, is laid freely on the bottom. Along its length, its position is fixed by longitudinal struts adjusted to the location. In the middle part of the boat, a middle frame is placed on it.
1, 5 - plywood sheets δ=6; 2, 6 - rectangular cutouts - sockets for fixing the position of the lower end folding stand under the cross braces; 3 - duralumin socket (shoe) with a figured groove for fixing the lower end of the rack under the bow can; the position of the can along the length of the boat is selected depending on the height of the rower; 4 - soft hinge (belt, rubber) for folding the floorboard.
The bottom branch of the frame is made from a duralumin tube, the side branches and struts are made from a 25X25 duralumin square. The connection of the branches on the cheekbones is hinged (rivet) for folding. The struts are hinged at one end and on a bolt with a wing nut at the other. To attach the frame to the skin, one hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in the upper part of the side branch and the free flange is cut off; the end of the frame is between the skin and the fender tube.
a - central frame; b - transverse strut; c - fastening of the “fender beam” and the ends of the side branches of the frames; g - longitudinal stem strut.
1 - duralumin square 25X25 or 30X30; 2 - M8 bolt; 3 - duralumin tube Ø18-20 mm;
4 - casing.
On the bow and stern transverse struts, vertical (side) angles and struts - pillars in the DP - are also hinged. When assembling the boat, the entire set is assembled into a rigid system with ten M8 bolts and wing nuts passed through the fender. Two of the same bolts are attached to the skin of the stem cross members, hingedly connected to the ends of the longitudinal struts.
To make the fenders foldable, simple hinge locks were used. One edge of the loop bent along the tube is tightly attached to one tube, the second is hinged so that the other tube can freely rotate around its axis. In the center of the loop there is a hole for an M8 bolt, which fastens the tube to the side (the nut is placed on the outside of the body). This bolt must be welded to the hinge.
1 - rivet; 2 - hinge axis, around which one of the tubes tilts upward; 3 - M8 bolt for fastening to the casing.
The cans rest freely on top of the corner supports riveted to the sides; To secure the bow can from shifting along the boat, grooves are made at the ends - cutouts to the thickness of the shelf. A tubular piller with clamps is placed under the nose can, and when the tube is turned, it fits into the grooves of the upper (on the can) and lower (on the floor) shoes. You can put the same pillers under the feed can.
A sub-key is riveted to one of the tubes of each fender (no closer than 100 mm from the break).
The oars are composite. The oar itself is wooden (spindle diameter 35 mm), the blade is made of 1 mm thick duralumin with three stiffening ribs. In the middle of the length the oar is folded thanks to a sleeve connection; During assembly, a union nut is screwed on to secure the connection.
1 - blade; 2 - brackets for fastening to the spindle; 3 - two parts of the spindle; 4, 5, 6 - connection details: bushings fixed at the ends of the spindle, and a loose union nut; 7 - oarlock.
L. K. Pressler, "KiYa", 1976
This time, the editors provided the pages of the “Built by Amateurs” section to the authors of the original portable watercraft simplest design. Each reader can do any of them with his own hands. You don't have to spend a lot of time searching necessary materials or premises for assembly: several meters of rubberized fabric, duralumin tubes or wooden slats, help from the wife who owns sewing machine, - and the boat is ready.
True, none of the presented designs resemble a “real” boat either in shape or in its seaworthiness; These structures can only be used on quiet rivers and forest lakes. What attracts them is the ability to carry them in a backpack, which is important for hunters and tourists hiking along mixed routes - on foot and along the river, when carrying a kayak weighing 25-30 kg is simply difficult. From this point of view, the idea of the multi-purpose use of a boat, which serves as a backpack, a tent, and a bunk, developed by Muscovite V. A. Strogonov, is interesting; To assemble it, you don’t even need to take special slats with you - suitable thin trunks can be picked up in the forest.
Evaluating this design from the point of view of a shipbuilder, one can note its stability, which is quite sufficient for crossing a river or fishing near the shore, as well as the presence of a reserve of buoyancy (in inflatable chambers) in case of damage to the fabric lining.
However, it is possible to do without rigid longitudinal struts altogether, if you let air perform their role. To do this, longitudinal inflatable cylinders can be provided on the panel in place of the side sections of the skin: they can be easily made in the form of a strip of a second layer of rubberized fabric sewn from the inside of the body. True, this will require more careful work and the use of airtight material. Apparently this is not a problem for the home boatbuilder; after all, Muscovite V.P. Demyanov was able to produce a portable inflatable catamaran, which in terms of weight is practically not inferior to V.A. Strogonov’s set, but is distinguished by even greater stability and better sailing performance. V.P. Demyanov’s conclusion is also correct that to increase the carrying capacity, in principle, it is more advisable to increase the size of the cylinders than to take with you another additional cylinder. Obviously, the increase in weight in this case will not be greater, but speed qualities and stability will increase to an immeasurably greater extent.
With a slight improvement in the contours of the inflatable floats and the installation of a centerboard, a Medusa-type catamaran can turn out to be a good tackling vessel - this is evidenced by the positive experience of operating similar foreign pleasure boats.
The boat of Kiev resident A.P. Lisitsa can be useful for a city dweller who goes fishing and does not intend to overcome vast expanses of water. Packed in a flat bag, it is no different from a portable suitcase and does not at all constrain the owner when traveling on a bus or train. The principle of expanding the soft shell can also be applied to larger boats of a different configuration, different from a box with an inclined front wall. The disadvantages of A.P. Lisitsa’s boat include the low survivability of the structure and the lack of buoyancy reserve. If the casing is damaged, the fisherman will have to swim to the shore. The width of the boat and the height of the side are critical values, which should be increased slightly. An emergency reserve of buoyancy in the form of thin slabs of durable PVC foam can be provided in the design of the seat and footrest (for example, by gluing the foam to their lower surface). It is enough to have 12-15 cubic meters. decimeters of buoyancy volume - and the boat will simultaneously serve as a reliable life-saving device. To go out without life-saving equipment on such a boat, even at low water We don't recommend it.
Finally, very ample opportunities For relaxation on the water, a collapsible floating summer cottage-tent, designed by Muscovite N.P. Mittrakh, is provided. The owner of such a dacha is just as free to choose a route as a kayaker, but can sit on his vessel with much greater comfort and, moreover, is free from daily worries for setting up a tent.
The editors' portfolio contains several more descriptions of similar (may their authors forgive us!) primitive boats. Not all of them answer modern requirements requirements for recreational and fishing boats. But the very fact of the appearance of such homemade designs speaks of the existing shortage in the industrial production of small-sized portable boats - watercraft for fishermen and tourists. Apparently, the need for them should mainly be met by expanding production inflatable boats- reliable in operation, technologically advanced for large-scale production and therefore inexpensive. It would be useful to release trading network and simply elongated inflatable cylinders of two or three standard sizes, using which one could, like a children’s construction set, assemble catamarans or even rafts of various carrying capacities.
We cannot turn a blind eye to the other side of the portable boat problem. As a rule, these homemade vessels find themselves beyond any supervision of navigational and technical inspections, although they often have a far from safe design. Serial production of tested and approved samples would greatly help reduce the number of accidents on the water.
Canvas boat
The folding boat I made is convenient for transportation on any type of transport. Dimensions of the assembled boat: length 2 m, width 0.8 m, side height 0.35 m; when folded, the package measures 1X0.35X0.15 m.The main parts of the boat are two folding longitudinal frames, cross braces including seat and footrest, and a canvas cover. Frames and spacers can be made from duralumin square or slats (waste packaging containers for motorcycles or furniture are suitable). For the cover you need 6 m of rubberized fabric or thin tarpaulin, provided it is impregnated with rubber glue or other waterproof compound.
The ends of the slats for joining into frames are cut into subtrees. The seat and footrest are assembled from plywood, reinforced with slats, and attached to the frames on detachable hinges (loops from the window are used, from which the pins are knocked out and replaced with wire of a slightly smaller diameter).
The cover is made from two three-meter pieces of fabric, sewn together with the edges overlapping by 6-7 cm. These gluing points are first cleaned with sandpaper, separated with a lath so as not to clean off excess, then glued together with rubber glue. It is better to glue together with two people so that there is no delay or distortion during gluing. You need to place something hard under the gluing area or glue it on a flat floor. After gluing, the connections are stitched. A full-length strip of tarpaulin is glued over the joint.
The longitudinal frames are temporarily fastened with slats so that the boat is 80 cm wide, then the resulting frame is placed on a cover laid with the rubberized layer down. Excess material on the sides is cut off, leaving only 2 cm at the bend. It is better not to cut off the tarpaulin at the corners of the frame, but to bend it, just as they wrap candy with paper or make boxes for them. The extra square that is formed when bending is cut off, and the joint is stitched manually. The tarpaulin should be pulled as tightly as possible.
To make it easier to pull the cover on, loops - petals with holes - are sewn to its upper edge. These loops are folded over the top of the side frames and placed on metal hooks (medium sized nails without heads, bent into an L shape). Then the boat is turned upside down and strips of tarpaulin 6-7 cm wide are attached along the longitudinal frames to protect the cover from wear.
The assembly sequence is as follows. The side frames in a half-bent position must be inserted into the cover, pointing exactly to the corners and immediately putting the side loops sewn on top of the cover onto the hooks. Then, with a push, the frames are straightened to their full length. The upper struts are inserted, then the seat, footrest and transverse slats along the bottom in the bow and rear of the boat.
The “undertaking” is simply simple in design. I made it myself at home from quite available materials, such as old ski poles and thick tarpaulins. The frame is assembled from duralumin tubes 16X0.7 and 14X0.7, 450-1400 mm long. Almost all tubes are straight; during assembly, they are simply inserted into crosspieces, corner couplings and tubular brackets. After assembly, the entire frame is tightened along the bottom with two diagonal cables from corner to corner, and the side along the upper edge is covered with a cable around the entire perimeter. Subsequent covering with tarpaulin and lacing it to the frame gives the entire structure final rigidity.
All brackets and crosses are made using wire-reinforced paste prepared on the basis epoxy resin ED-6 (resin - 100 parts by weight, dibutyl phthalate - 20 parts by weight, hexamethylenediamine - 10 parts by weight, aluminum powder or sawdust - in a ratio of 1:1 to the volume of the binder). To obtain a reliable connection, the metal must first be thoroughly cleaned with a file and degreased with white spirit; The parts to be connected are connected with wire with a diameter of 1-1.5 mm, then a cementing paste is applied and the assembly is kept at a temperature of 50-70 ° C until the paste completely hardens. The tubes, if there are cracks in them, are filled with paper so that the paste does not penetrate inside.
The sheathing of the boat - a rectangular panel 2500X4000 with eyelets along the edges (200 mm pitch) - is loosely laced to the tube bordering the upper edge of the side. The underwater part of the skin is made of thick waterproof tarpaulin, and the sides above the waterline are made of raincoat fabric. All connections are stitched sewing threads No. 10 in two or three seams and impregnated with rubber glue (you can use a solution of 1 part by weight of raw rubber in 2 parts by weight of B-70 gasoline). The weight of the finished skin is about 7 kg. Pockets with flaps with buttons are sewn to the inside of the sides for storing small items.
Covering the frame with tarpaulin at the corners requires some experience. The tarpaulin should be folded so that the outer folds, which inevitably form at the corners, are directed from bow to stern - along the course of the water. From the inside, two sheets of corrugated fiberglass 1.5 mm thick are laid on the bottom, attached with belts to the bottom tubes. This type of flooring is rigid enough to support the weight of people or cargo.
For shelter from bad weather, use a tent with gable roof, stretched on rafter racks installed in the sockets of the side crosspieces. The tent is made of soft MMP polyvinyl chloride film with a thickness of 0.15-0.20 mm.
The crew (on trips it usually consisted of 4-5 people) is placed on folding seats made in the form of a frame made of 14X0.7 duralumin pipe covered crosswise with wide braid. It is also very comfortable to sit on air mattresses, which are laid on the bottom along the sides and attached to the frame; They, naturally, serve not only as a place of rest, but also as a means of providing emergency buoyancy.
When disassembled, the floating boat fits into two relatively small packages - one with a diameter of 100 and a length of 1700 mm and the other with dimensions 500X900. The entire process of assembling the vessel, from unpacking the bales to installing the seats, can be completed by two people in 40 minutes. Disassembly takes even less - 25 minutes.
We built “Zateya” 12 years ago. Since then, we have sailed on it more than 3000 km along quiet rivers and lakes in the most remote, protected places of the Ryazan Meshchera. On our first trip we went with only a pair of oars (and then covered more than 250 km). And when a water-jet motor made from a bicycle “D5” was attached to the “transom”, the average ground speed increased to 5-6 km/h, “Zateya” turned into a floating “rest home” for a family crew.
It should also be emphasized that despite the primitiveness of the device (not to mention its appearance, which provokes ridicule from specialists), our “Zateya” is a completely reliable vessel: underwater obstacles and waves are no more dangerous than, for example, for a kayak with a soft skin. Over all these years, the canvas hull did not have any holes. Some mobility of the skin and elasticity of the frame soften the blows when encountering driftwood, stones and snags. It’s quite simple to push our “Venture” off the shallows or any other obstacle. By the way, the relatively light weight of the hull makes it easy to pull it onto land and use the floating house at rest stops.
No steering device is needed, since the “Zateya” is well controlled by oars or, even more so, by a rotary motor-oar.
We believe that this version of a portable floating boat has a number of advantages. In addition to the simplicity of the design, these are, for example, transportability and low weight (body 22 kg plus equipment 13 kg) with a large load capacity (over 450 kg) and usable area(3.0X1.5 m), slight draft (about 100 mm), high stability.
Catamaran in a backpack
The collapsible inflatable four-seater catamaran “Medusa”, built with my own hands in small apartment(where, by the way, it is stored in winter and summer, without bothering anyone - on the mezzanine). There are 26 hikes behind us, including one-day walks along the rivers and reservoirs of the Moscow region (Oka, Ugra, Moscow, Protva, Desna, Uchinskoye and Pirogovskoye reservoirs). People of different ages took part in these voyages of the Medusa - from 8 to 70 years old, and no one complained of inconvenience. There were no accidents, thank Neptune.The catamaran in the rowing version weighs only 7 kg, and with the mast, rudder and sails - 12 kg. It takes only about half an hour to assemble and prepare the Medusa for sailing. Two of our friends, who have their own collapsible kayak, in cases where the time budget is limited to Saturday and Sunday, willingly prefer the Medusa to it.
The length of all rigid structural elements does not exceed 140-160 cm. A small bundle of such slats and tubes and a backpack, barely half filled, is what a disassembled vessel looks like, which can be transported by all types of transport, including a car and an airplane.
Making a catamaran does not present any difficulties, except for the search for light and durable material for floats. Two-layer aluminum fabric “500” (“silver”, as it is popularly called) turned out to be quite suitable. A float with a capacity of 200 liters glued together from it weighs less than a kilogram. Depending on the size of the crew, you can inflate not only two, but also three such floats. In especially critical cases (for example, when going on a hike late autumn, and even with passengers who could not swim) we had occasion to use a fourth float: the result was no longer a trimaran, but a raft with a carrying capacity of half a ton.
We tested a total of nine floats different sizes and shapes. For short trips together, floats with a length of 2100-2400 mm and a diameter of 300-340 mm are best suited. If the trip is long and the crew consists of four people, it is more profitable to take not three floats made of “500” fabric, but two larger ones made of thick fabric, rubberized on both sides; it sticks well and allows you to give the float a more streamlined shape. At maximum diameter 400-420 mm, such a float has a volume of about 350 liters.
All floats are single-section with inflatable tubes (nipples) glued into the upper part, which allows air to be inflated even while afloat. The floats are inflated with homemade bellows, like a beekeeper's smoker, and often simply with their own lungs.
The rigid frame of the catamaran is assembled from slats with a section of 50X20 or 30X40 using wing bolts. The floats are attached to this frame using a wide braid that encircles them around their circumference.
Two crossbars 1400 mm long are made of aluminum square: folding canvas seats on aluminum tubular frames can be attached to them, which can be easily folded back when switching to sailing.
The mast is composite, made of three wooden blocks, fastened with bolts, or duralumin tubes with couplings. My tubular mast turned out to be less rigid than a wooden one, but it is convenient in that a gaff and boom (composite), made from aluminum ski poles, are inserted into its two long links (1600 mm long) during transportation. Percale sails weigh no more than a kilogram.
The catamaran is controlled under sail by a simple balancing rudder with an area of 6 dm2, which is attached with a clamp to the stern cross member. You can also use one of the oars for this purpose. “Medusa” does not go steeply into the wind, although when installing the windshields, this is apparently not excluded.
When rowing with short oars, like a canoe, the catamaran develops a speed of 5-6 km/h in calm water. True, we are lagging behind the kayak, but we are catching up on lost time while clearing dams and other obstacles. Under sail with a tailwind, the speed reaches 8 km/h.
When going on a hike, I usually tie two inflatable mattresses across the catamaran (one way or another I have to take them if I have an overnight stay). In this case, of course, we don’t take seats.
The mattresses will not allow the catamaran to capsize and sink, and in the worst case, we always have with us a waterproof bag with spare clothes (so far it has never come in handy). We always put a spare float, a bottle of glue and a piece of fabric for patches in the backpack.
Before difficult long hikes, we strengthen the frame with additional connections (two longitudinal and one transverse). Instead of a net, we stretch a tarpaulin on top and add two more oars.
Set of equipment for fisherman and hunters
The proposed set of lightweight equipment - weighing no more than 4 kg - for hunters and fishermen can be made at home within one or two days. It consists of just a few parts, various combinations of which turn into a backpack, tent, boat or bed.The main parts of the kit are a panel measuring 2.7x2 m, two floats and a luggage strap.
The middle part of the canvas, which serves as a tent and the shell of the boat, is cut out from rubberized fabric, the sides are made from a raincoat. To be able to set up the tent, there are 8 eyelets (holes) and two straps for stretching the roof ridge. The panel is attached to the ground with pins made of 2.5-3 mm wire ( stainless steel); By the way, on a hike they can also be used as a tripod for a pot.
The floats of the boat are made from any lightweight material two bags 1080 mm long and 480 mm wide, each containing three inflated chambers from soccer ball. The tubes of the chambers are led out through holes covered with thread. The space between the chambers is filled with available material - reeds, hay, dry leaves, etc. Six canvas pockets must be sewn to each bag for the slats that make up the frame of the boat.
The slats of the boat frame and oars can be made of composite duralumin tubes, but where possible, it is easier to cut them out of dead wood in the forest. Then you will only need to take with you two plywood blades and two oarlocks cut from thick rubber, for example, from a car inner tube.
Two longitudinal slats supporting the upper edges of the sides are inserted into special pockets 3, sewn to the panel from the inside (cutouts 4 must be made in the pockets for oarlocks); the ends of the slats rest against fabric sockets on the float covers. Two more slats with a diameter of about 25 mm are inserted into the same sockets in the middle of the side height and on the bottom. After assembly, the cord 5 is tightly wrapped, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity. The edges of the cloth hang down inside the boat along the sides, and during rain they can be pulled up like a protective apron. On the bottom you need to either make a light lattice (slan), or just throw a few branches. A comfortable seat for rowing is made from a rubber cushion enclosed in a fabric cover.
A boat turned upside down becomes a camp bed.
To pack the kit, use a luggage strap with a removable leather handle (purchased in the store). The same belts are used for additional tightening of the two upper slats when assembling the boat, and also as guy ropes when installing a tent.
I have been using this set of equipment for several years on hikes in the Moscow region, Arkhangelsk and Vologda regions. It is very convenient for hunting and fishing in sparsely populated areas where it is difficult to get a boat.
A “suspended” bed, a tent and, in addition, a gauze canopy provide protection from mosquitoes and dampness, even on wet, swampy soil.
A slow-moving but quite stable boat allows you to raft on calm rivers and swim on small lakes.
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1. General provisions
This personal data processing policy has been drawn up in accordance with the requirements of the Federal Law of July 27, 2006. No. 152-FZ “On Personal Data” and determines the procedure for processing personal data and measures to ensure the security of personal data of JACKBOT-MASTER LLC (TIN 6313548928 KPP 631301001) (hereinafter referred to as the Operator).1.1. The operator sets his the most important goal and as a condition for carrying out its activities, compliance with the rights and freedoms of man and citizen when processing his personal data, including the protection of the rights to privacy, personal and family secrets.1.2. This Operator's policy regarding the processing of personal data (hereinafter referred to as the Policy) applies to all information that the Operator may receive about website visitors.
2. Basic concepts used in the Policy 2.1. Automated processing personal data – processing of personal data using computer technology; 2.2. Blocking of personal data – temporary cessation of processing of personal data (except for cases where processing is necessary to clarify personal data); 2.3. Website – a collection of graphic and information materials, as well as computer programs and databases that ensure their availability on the Internet at the network address http://site; 2.4. Personal data information system - a set of personal data contained in databases and ensuring their processing information technologies and technical means;2.5. Depersonalization of personal data - actions as a result of which it is impossible to determine without the use of additional information the ownership of personal data to a specific User or other subject of personal data; 2.6. Processing of personal data – any action (operation) or set of actions (operations) performed using automation tools or without the use of such means with personal data, including collection, recording, systematization, accumulation, storage, clarification (updating, changing), extraction, use, transfer (distribution, provision, access), depersonalization, blocking, deletion, destruction of personal data;2.7. Operator – government agency, municipal body, legal or individual, independently or jointly with other persons organizing and (or) carrying out the processing of personal data, as well as determining the purposes of processing personal data, the composition of personal data to be processed, actions (operations) performed with personal data; 2.8. Personal data – any information relating directly or indirectly to a specific or identified User of the website http://site;2.9..10. Providing personal data – actions aimed at disclosing personal data to a certain person or a certain circle of persons; 2.11. Dissemination of personal data - any actions aimed at disclosing personal data to an indefinite number of persons (transfer of personal data) or familiarizing with personal data to an unlimited number of persons, including the publication of personal data in the media, posting in information and telecommunication networks or providing access to personal data in any other way; 2.12. Cross-border transfer of personal data – transfer of personal data to the territory of a foreign state to an authority of a foreign state, a foreign individual or a foreign legal entity; 2.13. Destruction of personal data – any action as a result of which personal data is destroyed irretrievably with the impossibility of further restoration of the content of personal data in information system personal data and (or) as a result of which material media of personal data are destroyed.
3. The Operator may process the following personal data of the User 3.1. Last name, first name, patronymic.3.2. Email address.3.3. Telephone numbers.3.4. Details of the identity document.3.5. Address of actual place of residence and registration at the place of residence and (or) place of stay.3.6. The site also collects and processes anonymized data about visitors (including cookies) using Internet statistics services (Yandex Metrica and Google Analytics and others). 3.7. The above data below in the text of the Policy are combined general concept Personal Information.
4. Purposes of processing personal data 4.1. The purpose of processing the User’s personal data is to inform the User by sending emails; conclusion, execution and termination of civil contracts; providing the User with access to services, information and/or materials contained on the website; informing the User by sending SMS messages (solely for notification purposes, for informational purposes only).4.2. The Operator also has the right to send notifications to the User about new products and services, special offers and various events. The User can always refuse to receive information messages by sending a letter to the Operator to Email info@site marked “Opt-out of notifications about new products and services and special offers.”4.3. Anonymized data of Users, collected using Internet statistics services, serves to collect information about the actions of Users on the site, improve the quality of the site and its content.
5. Legal grounds processing of personal data 5.1. The Operator processes the User’s personal data only if it is filled out and/or sent by the User independently through special forms located on the website. By filling out the appropriate forms and/or sending his personal data to the Operator, the User expresses his consent to this Policy. 5.2. The Operator processes anonymized data about the User if this is allowed in the User's browser settings (saving cookies and using JavaScript technology are enabled).
6. The procedure for collecting, storing, transferring and other types of processing of personal data The security of personal data processed by the Operator is ensured by implementing legal, organizational and technical measures necessary to fully comply with the requirements of current legislation in the field of personal data protection. 6.1. The operator ensures the safety of personal data and takes all possible measures to prevent access to personal data by unauthorized persons. 6.2. The User's personal data will never, under any circumstances, be transferred to third parties, except in cases related to the implementation of current legislation. 6.3. If inaccuracies in personal data are identified, the User can update them independently by sending a notification to the Operator to the Operator's e-mail address info@site marked “Updating personal data.” 6.4. The period for processing personal data is unlimited. The User may at any time withdraw his consent to the processing of personal data by sending a notification to the Operator via email to email address Operator info@site marked “Withdrawal of consent to the processing of personal data.”
7. Cross-border transfer of personal data 7.1 The operator, before starting the cross-border transfer of personal data, is obliged to ensure that the foreign state to whose territory it is intended to transfer personal data is provided reliable protection rights of personal data subjects. 7.2 Cross-border transfer of personal data to the territory of foreign states that do not meet the above requirements can only be carried out if there is consent in writing from the subject of personal data to the cross-border transfer of his personal data and/or execution of an agreement to which the subject of personal data is a party.
8. Final provisions 8.1. The User can receive any clarification on issues of interest regarding the processing of his personal data by contacting the Operator via email [email protected]. 8.2. This document will reflect any changes to the Operator’s personal data processing policy. The policy is valid indefinitely until it is replaced new version. 8.3. The current version of the Policy is freely available on the Internet at
We offer you two designs of homemade folding boats.
The first one, shown in the following figure, is very easy to manufacture and weighs only 13-17 kg.
To make it you will need two sheets of 4 mm plywood measuring 1525x1525 mm, wide pine board 1.5-2 cm thick, thin slats, drying oil, oil paint, strips of tin 2-2.5 cm wide (can be cut from tin cans) and 50 mm nails.
First, cut out two pieces of sheathing 1 and blanks from boards 2, 3 and 4 from plywood, having previously covered them on both sides with plywood scraps. Coat the cut blanks and sheets of plywood at the joints with thick oil paint, Phoenix, Unicum or epoxy glue.
Now nail plywood sheathing 1 to parts 2, 3 and 4. To prevent chips from forming on the edges of the plywood, pre-drill holes along the edges of the sheathing with a Ø 2 mm drill.
The assembled bow and stern parts of the boat are connected so that the bow part is 3-4 cm to the stern. Cover all joints with strips of tin, and before upholstering, coat the surface with thick oil paint. After this, nail the keel strip to the bottom of the boat and the battens along the sides.
Treat the finished boat with hot drying oil inside and out, and after drying, cover the vessel with two layers oil paint on both sides, carefully sealing all cracks and grooves.
The bow of the boat can be made of dense construction foam, the sheets of which are glued together with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. After this, cover the bow of the boat with two or three layers of gauze, soaking them with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. Attach the finished bow to the bow board with two stud bolts. The stern part is also made from foam plastic.
The boat has double oars, like a kayak. The total length of the oar is 220-240 cm. You can use ready-made dismountable metal or wooden kayak oars, which are commercially available. Such a vessel has a carrying capacity of 100-110 kg.
The second design consists of four sections. Making it is more complicated and can only be done by someone who already has experience working with plywood and wood. For work you will need four sheets of 4mm plywood.
Having cut the plywood into blanks, you must first treat it on both sides with hot drying oil.
The frames use 6mm plywood, folded in three layers. When cutting plywood, keep in mind that all body parts must be cut along the grain of the outer layers of plywood. Don't forget to leave a small allowance for processing the ends.
The cut parts are glued together with carpentry, casein or epoxy glue, oil paint and dried under a load. For greater strength, the frames can be stitched along the edges with small nails, the ends of which are bent on the other side.
In straight sections, duralumin corners are attached to the frames. This increases the rigidity and strength of the structure. To avoid confusion during assembly, mark the workpieces: the first number is the section number, the second is the part number.
The body parts are fastened to the frames with thin 30 mm nails, and the corners with 0 4 mm screws and washers.
Section I at the point where it joins section II has a large width, so the connection is stepped. This is done so that the sections can fit into one another during transportation. The sections are placed in the package in the following order: I - II - III - IV; and sections II and IV are turned over.
To better seal the joints of the sections, a rubber tube is used, which is laid next to the bolts on both sides.
The keel rack is made of parts with bevels in the direction of movement of the vessel. Before fastening, the slats are pre-treated with hot drying oil and aged for 5 days.
Once all sections are ready, paint them with two thin coats of oil paint. Apply the second coat after the first has completely dried. Seal seams carefully.
During assembly, sections are connected with fastening bolts. Drill holes for them, fastening the sections together with clamps or securing them with two or three nails.
If you have a lot of epoxy glue, the bottom of the boat can be covered with a layer of fiberglass, adding 10-15 percent acetone to the glue as a thinner. The edges of the glass weaving are folded into the vessel and secured there. In this option, covering with fiberglass should be done after treatment with drying oil, and painting - after covering.
The rear seat rests on frame 6, and the front seat on frame 4. The seat backs can be made movable by securing them with clamps on aluminum tubes Ø 30 mm. The tubes, in turn, are secured with clamps on the upper bolts of the frames when assembling the sections.
When preparing for a boat trip, be sure to provide life-saving equipment: volleyball inner tubes tied together, life jackets, jackets with foam liners.
Plywood boats, made up of parts that are nested inside one another during transportation, like nesting dolls, are lightweight and easy to transport. This boat can be transported on a bus or train.
L. Afrin
Supplement to UT No. 5 1986