Homemade two-cylinder steam engine. Do-it-yourself steam engine: detailed description, drawings Do-it-yourself steam engine model


Hello everyone, kompik92 is here!
And this is the second part of creating a steam engine!
Here is a more complex version of it, which is more powerful and interesting! Although it requires more funds and tools. But as they say: “The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing”! So let's get started!

I think everyone who has seen my past posts already knows what will happen now. Do not know?

Safety regulations:

  1. When the engine is running and you want to move it, use tongs, thick gloves or non-heat-conducting material!
  2. If you want to make an engine more complex or more powerful, it is better to ask someone else than to experiment! Incorrect assembly may cause the boiler to explode!
  3. If you want to take a running engine, do not point the steam at people!
  4. Do not block the steam in the can or tube, or the steam engine may explode!
Is everything clear?
Let's get started!

Everything we need is here:

  • 4 liter jar (preferably well washed)
  • Jar with a capacity of 1 liter
  • 6 meter copper pipe with a diameter (from now on “dm”) 6mm
  • Metal tape
  • 2 tubes that are easy to squeeze.
  • Distribution box made of metal in the shape of a “circle” (well, it doesn’t look like a circle...)
  • A cable clamp that can be connected to a junction box.
  • Copper tube with a length of 15 centimeters and a diameter of 1.3 centimeters
  • Metal mesh 12 by 24 cm
  • 35 centimeters of elastic plastic tube with a diameter of 3 mm
  • 2 clamps for plastic tubes
  • Coal (only the best)
  • Standard skewer for barbecue
  • Wooden dowel with a length of 1.5 cm and a diameter of 1.25 cm (with a hole on one side)
  • Screwdriver (phillips)
  • Drill with different drill bits
  • Metal hammer
  • Metal scissors
  • Pliers
Uhh.. This will be difficult... Okay, let's get started!

1. Make a rectangle in the jar. Using pliers, cut a rectangle on the wall with an area of ​​15 cm by 5 cm near the bottom. We made a hole for our firebox, this is where we will light the coal.


2. Place the grid Bend the legs at the mesh so that the length of the legs is 6 cm each, and then place it on the leg inside the jar. This will be a coal separator.


3. Ventilation. Make semicircular holes around the perimeter of the lid using pliers. For a good fire, you will need plenty of air and good ventilation.


4. Making a coil. Make a coil from a copper tube 6 meters long, measure 30 cm from the end of the tube, and from this place measure 5 skeins dm 12 cm. Make the rest of the tube 15 skeins of 8 cm each. You will have another 20 cm.


5. Attaching the coil. Secure the coil through the vent. Using a coil we will heat the water.


6. Load the coal. Load the coal and place the coil in the top jar and close the lid well. You will have to change this coal often.


7. Making holes. Use a drill to make 1 cm holes in a liter jar. Place them: in the middle on top, and two more holes on the side with the same dm on the same vertical line, one just above the base and one not far from the lid.


8. Secure the tubes. Make holes with a diameter slightly smaller than your layer. tubes through both plugs. Then cut the plastic tube into 25 and 10 cm, and then fasten the tubes into corks, and squeeze them into the holes of the cans, and then clamp them with a clamp. We made the entrance and exit of the coil, water comes from below, and steam comes out of the top.


9. Installation of tubes. Place the small one on the large jar and attach the upper 25 cm wire to the coil passage to the left of the firebox, and the small 10 cm wire to its right exit. Then secure them well with metal tape. We secured the tube outlets to the coil.


10. Secure the securing box. Using a screwdriver and a hammer, unhook the middle of the round metal box. Lock the cable clamp with the locking ring. Attach a 15 cm copper tube with 1.3 cm diameter to the clamp, so that the copper pipe extends a couple of cm below the hole in the box. Round the edges of the exiting end inward using a hammer to 1 centimeter. Secure the reduced end into the top hole of the small jar.


11. Add a dowel. Use a standard wooden barbecue skewer and attach either end to a dowel. Insert this structure into the top copper tube. We made a piston that will rise when there is too much steam in a small jar; by the way, you can add another flag for beauty.

I will duplicate from the forum:
the car is installed on a boat there, which is not necessary for us

BOAT WITH STEAM ENGINE

Case manufacturing
The hull of our boat is carved from dry, soft and light wood: linden, aspen, alder; Birch is harder and more difficult to process. You can also take spruce or pine, but they are easily pricked, which complicates the work.
Having chosen a log of suitable thickness, trim it with an ax and saw off a piece of the required size. The sequence of manufacturing the body is shown in the figures (see table 33, left, top).
Cut the deck out of dry boards. Make the deck slightly convex on top, like on real ships, so that any water that gets on it flows overboard. Using a knife, cut shallow grooves into the deck to give the deck surface the appearance of planks.

Boiler construction
Having cut out a piece of tin measuring 80x155 mm, bend the edges about 10 mm wide in opposite directions. Having bent the tin into a ring, connect the bent edges into a seam and solder it (see table, middle, right). Bend the workpiece to form an oval, cut two oval bottoms along it and solder them.
Punch two holes in the top of the boiler: one for the water-filling plug, the other for the passage of steam into the steam chamber. A dry steamer is a small round jar made of tin. From the steam chamber comes a small tube welded from tin, onto the end of which another rubber tube is pulled, through which the steam goes to the cylinder of the steam engine.
The firebox is only suitable for an alcohol burner. From below, the firebox has a tin bottom with curved edges. The figure shows a firebox pattern. Dotted lines indicate fold lines. You cannot solder the firebox; its side walls are fastened with two or three small rivets. The lower edges of the walls are bent outward and covered by the edges of the tin bottom.
The burner has two wicks made of cotton wool and a long funnel-shaped tube soldered from tin. Through this tube you can add alcohol to the burner without removing the boiler with the firebox from the boat or the burner from the firebox. If the boiler is connected to the cylinder of the steam engine with a rubber tube, the firebox with the boiler can be easily removed from the boat.
If there is no alcohol, you can make a firebox that will run on fine pre-lit charcoal. Coal is poured into a tin box with a lattice bottom. The box with coal is installed in the firebox. To do this, the boiler will have to be made removable and secured above the firebox with wire clamps.

Making machine
The boat model has a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder. This is a simple yet well-functioning model. How it works can be seen in table 34, on the right, above.
The first position shows the moment of steam inlet when the hole in the cylinder coincides with the steam inlet hole. In this position, steam enters the cylinder, presses on the piston and pushes it down. The steam pressure on the piston is transmitted through the connecting rod and crank to the propeller shaft. As the piston moves, the cylinder rotates.
When the piston does not reach the bottom point a little, the cylinder will stand straight and the intake of steam will stop: the hole in the cylinder no longer coincides with the inlet hole. But the rotation of the shaft continues, due to the inertia of the flywheel. The cylinder turns more and more, and when the piston begins to rise upward, the cylinder hole will coincide with another, the exhaust hole. The exhaust steam in the cylinder is pushed out through the outlet hole.
When the piston rises to its highest position, the cylinder will become straight again and the exhaust port will close. At the beginning of the reverse movement of the piston, when it begins to descend, the hole in the cylinder will again coincide with the steam inlet, steam will rush into the cylinder again, the piston will receive a new push, and everything will repeat all over again.
Cut the cylinder from a brass, copper or steel tube with a hole diameter of 7-8 mm or from an empty cartridge case of the corresponding diameter. The tube should have smooth inner walls.
Cut the connecting rod out of a brass or iron plate 1.5-2 mm thick, tinning the end without a hole.
Cast the piston from lead directly in the cylinder. The casting method is exactly the same as for the steam engine described earlier. When the casting lead is melted, hold the connecting rod clamped with pliers in one hand and pour the lead into the cylinder with the other hand. Immediately immerse the tinned end of the connecting rod into the still uncured lead to the pre-marked depth. It will be firmly sealed into the piston. Make sure that the connecting rod is immersed exactly plumb and in the center of the piston. When the casting has cooled, push the piston and connecting rod out of the cylinder and carefully clean it.
Cut the cylinder cover from brass or iron with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.
The steam distribution device of a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder consists of two plates: cylinder steam distribution plate A, which is soldered to the cylinder, and steam distribution plate B, soldered to the rack (frame). They are best made from brass or copper and only as a last resort from iron (see table, left, top).
The plates must fit tightly to each other. To do this, they scrounge up. It's done like this. Take out the so-called test tile or take a small mirror. Cover its surface with a very thin and even layer of black oil paint or soot, wiped off with vegetable oil. The paint is spread across the surface of the mirror with your fingers. Place the scraped plate on a mirror surface coated with paint, press it with your fingers and move it across the mirror from side to side for a while. Then remove the plate and scrape all protruding areas covered with paint with a special tool - a scraper. A scraper can be made from an old triangular file by sharpening its edges as shown in the figure. If the metal from which the steam distribution plates are made is soft (brass, copper), then the scraper can be replaced with a penknife.
When all the protruding paint-covered areas of the plate have been removed, wipe off the remaining paint and place the plate back on the test surface. Now the paint will cover a large surface of the plate. Very good. Continue scraping until the entire surface of the plate is covered with small, frequent specks of paint. After you have attached the steam distribution plates, solder a screw inserted into the hole drilled in the plate to the cylinder plate A. Solder the plate with the screw to the cylinder. Then solder the cylinder cover. Solder the other plate to the frame of the machine.
Cut the frame from a brass or iron plate 2-3 mm thick and secure it to the bottom of the boat with two screws.
Make the propeller shaft from steel wire 3-4 mm thick or from the axle of a “constructor” set. The shaft rotates in a tube soldered from tin. Brass or copper washers with holes exactly along the shaft are soldered to its ends. Pour oil into the tube so that water cannot enter the boat even when the upper end of the tube is located below the water level. The propeller shaft tube is secured in the boat hull using an obliquely soldered round plate. Fill all the cracks around the tube and the mounting plate with molten resin (varnish) or cover it with putty.
The crank is made from a small iron plate and a piece of wire and is secured to the end of the shaft by soldering.
Choose a ready-made flywheel or cast it from zinc or lead, as for the valve steam engine described earlier. On the table, the circle shows the method of casting in a tin jar, and the rectangle shows the method of casting in a clay mold.
The propeller is cut from thin brass or iron and soldered to the end of the shaft. Bend the blades at an angle of no more than 45° to the propeller axis. With a greater inclination, they will not be screwed into the water, but will only scatter it to the sides.

Assembly
When you have made a cylinder with a piston and connecting rod, a machine frame, a crank and a propeller shaft with a flywheel, you can begin marking and then drilling the inlet and outlet holes of the frame's steam distribution plate,
To mark, you must first drill a hole in the cylinder plate with a 1.5 mm drill. This hole, drilled in the center of the top of the plate, should fit into the cylinder as close as possible to the cylinder cover (see table 35). Insert a piece of pencil lead into the drilled hole so that it protrudes 0.5 mm from the hole.
Place the cylinder, piston and connecting rod in place. Place a spring on the end of the screw soldered into the cylinder plate and screw on the nut. The cylinder with graphite inserted into the hole will be pressed against the frame plate. If you now rotate the crank, as shown in the table above, the graphite will draw a small arc on the plate, at the ends of which you need to drill a hole. These will be the inlet (left) and outlet (right) holes. Make the inlet hole slightly smaller than the outlet. If you drill the inlet hole with a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm, then the outlet can be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. Once marking is complete, remove the cylinder and remove the lead. Carefully scrape off any burrs left after drilling along the edges of the hole.
If you don’t have a small drill or a drill at hand, then, with some patience, you can drill holes with a drill made from a thick needle. Break off the eye of the needle and drive it halfway into the wooden handle. Sharpen the protruding end of the eyelet on a hard block, as shown in the circle on the table. By rotating the handle with the needle in one direction or the other, you can slowly drill holes. This is especially easy when the plates are made of brass or copper.
The steering wheel is made of tin, thick wire and iron 1 mm thick (see table, right, below). To pour water into the boiler and alcohol into the burner, you need to solder a small funnel.
To prevent the model from falling on its side on dry land, it is mounted on a stand.

Testing and starting up the machine
After the model is completed, you can begin testing the steam engine. Pour oxen into the cauldron to 3/4 height. Insert wicks into the burner and pour alcohol. Lubricate the bearings and rubbing parts of the machine with liquid machine oil. Wipe the cylinder with a clean cloth or paper and lubricate it too. If the steam engine is built accurately, the surfaces of the plates are well lapped, the steam inlet and outlet holes are correctly marked and drilled, there are no distortions and the machine rotates easily by the screw, it should start running immediately.
Observe the following precautions when starting the machine:
1. Do not unscrew the water filler plug when there is steam in the boiler.
2. Do not make the spring tight and do not tighten it too tightly with the nut, as this, firstly, increases the friction between the plates and, secondly, there is a risk of the boiler exploding. It must be remembered that if the steam pressure in the boiler is too high, a cylinder plate with a properly selected spring is like a safety valve: it moves away from the frame plate, the excess steam comes out, and thanks to this, the pressure in the boiler is maintained normal all the time.
3. Do not let the steam engine stand for a long time if the water in the boiler is boiling. The resulting steam must be consumed all the time.
4. Do not let all the water in the boiler boil away. If this happens, the boiler will melt.
5. Do not fasten the ends of the rubber tube too tightly, which can also be a good preventive measure against the formation of too much pressure in the boiler. But keep in mind that the thin rubber tube will be inflated by the steam pressure. Take a strong ebonite tube, in which electrical wires are sometimes laid, or wrap an ordinary rubber tube with insulating tape,
6. To protect the boiler from rust, fill it with boiled water. To make the water in the boiler boil faster, the easiest way is to pour hot water.

The same thing but in PDF:

The reason for the construction of this unit was a stupid idea: “is it possible to build a steam engine without machines and tools, using only parts that can be bought in a store” and do everything with your own hands. The result is a design like this. The entire assembly and setup took less than an hour. Although it took six months to design and select parts.

Most of the structure consists of plumbing fixtures. At the end of the epic, the questions from sellers of hardware and other stores: “can I help you” and “why do you need them” really infuriated me.

And so we assemble the foundation. First the main cross member. Tees, bochata, and half-inch angles are used here. I secured all the elements with sealant. This is to make it easier to connect and separate them with your hands. But for final assembly it is better to use plumber's tape.

Then the longitudinal elements. The steam boiler, spool, steam cylinder and flywheel will be attached to them. Here all the elements are also 1/2".

Then we make the stands. In the photo, from left to right: a stand for the steam boiler, then a stand for the steam distribution mechanism, then a stand for the flywheel, and finally a holder for the steam cylinder. The flywheel holder is made from a 3/4" tee (external thread). Bearings from a repair kit for roller skates are ideally suited to it. The bearings are held in place by a coupling nut. Such nuts can be found separately or taken from a tee for metal-plastic pipes. This tee is pictured in the bottom right corner (not used in the design). A 3/4" tee is also used as a holder for the steam cylinder, only the threads are all internal. Adapters are used to attach 3/4" to 1/2" elements.

We assemble the boiler. A 1" pipe is used for the boiler. I found a used one on the market. Looking ahead, I want to say that the boiler turned out to be too small and does not produce enough steam. With such a boiler, the engine works too sluggishly. But it works. The three parts on the right are: plug, adapter 1"-1/2" and squeegee. The squeegee is inserted into the adapter and closed with a plug. Thus, the boiler becomes airtight.

This is how the boiler turned out initially.

But the steam tank turned out to be not high enough. Water got into the steam line. I had to install an additional 1/2" barrel through an adapter.

This is a burner. Four posts earlier there was the material “Homemade oil lamp from pipes”. This is how the burner was originally designed. But no suitable fuel was found. Lamp oil and kerosene smoke heavily. Need alcohol. So for now I just made a holder for dry fuel.

This is a very important detail. Steam distributor or spool. This thing directs steam into the slave cylinder during the power stroke. When the piston moves in reverse, the steam supply is shut off and a discharge occurs. The spool is made from a cross for metal-plastic pipes. One of the ends must be sealed with epoxy putty. This end will be attached to the rack through an adapter.

And now the most important detail. It will determine whether the engine will start or not. This is the working piston and spool valve. Here we use an M4 pin (sold in furniture fittings departments; it’s easier to find one long one and saw off the required length), metal washers and felt washers. Felt washers are used for fastening glass and mirrors with other fittings.

Felt is not the best material. It does not provide sufficient tightness, but the resistance to movement is significant. Later we managed to get rid of the felt. Non-standard washers were ideal for this: M4x15 for the piston and M4x8 for the valve. These washers need to be placed as tightly as possible, through plumbing tape, onto a pin and with the same tape wound 2-3 layers from the top. Then thoroughly rub in the cylinder and spool with water. I didn't take a photo of the upgraded piston. Too lazy to take it apart.

This is the actual cylinder. Made from a 1/2" barrel, it is secured inside a 3/4" tee with two coupling nuts. On one side, with maximum sealing, the fitting is tightly attached.

Now the flywheel. The flywheel is made from a dumbbell plate. A stack of washers is inserted into the center hole, and a small cylinder from a roller skate repair kit is placed in the center of the washers. Everything is secured with sealant. A furniture and picture hanger was ideal for the carrier holder. Looks like a keyhole. Everything is assembled in the order shown in the photo. Screw and nut - M8.

We have two flywheels in our design. There must be a strong connection between them. This connection is ensured by a coupling nut. All threaded connections are secured with nail polish.

These two flywheels appear the same, however one will be connected to the piston and the other to the spool valve. Accordingly, the carrier, in the form of an M3 screw, is attached at different distances from the center. For the piston, the carrier is located further from the center, for the valve - closer to the center.

Now we make the valve and piston drive. The furniture connecting plate was ideal for the valve.

The piston uses the window lock escutcheon as a lever. She came up like family. Eternal glory to whoever invented the metric system.

Drives assembled.

Everything is installed on the engine. Threaded connections are secured with varnish. This is the piston drive.

Valve drive. Please note that the positions of the piston carrier and valve differ by 90 degrees. Depending on which direction the valve carrier leads the piston carrier, it will depend on which direction the flywheel will rotate.

Now all that remains is to connect the tubes. These are silicone hoses for aquariums. All hoses must be secured with wire or clamps.

It should be noted that there is no safety valve provided here. Therefore, extreme caution should be taken.

Voila. Fill with water. Let's set it on fire. We are waiting for the water to boil. During heating, the valve must be in the closed position.

The entire assembly process and the result are on video.

The ship model is propelled by a steam-water jet engine. A ship with this engine is not a progressive discovery (its system was patented 125 years ago by the Briton Perkins), but otherwise it clearly demonstrates the operation of a simple jet engine.

Rice. 1 Ship with a steam engine. 1 - steam-water engine, 2 - plate made of mica or asbestos; 3 - firebox; 4 - nozzle outlet with a diameter of 0.5 mm.

Instead of a boat, it would be possible to use a car model. The choice was made for the boat due to its greater fire protection. The experiment is carried out with a vessel with water at hand, for example, a bath or basin.

The body can be made of wood (for example, pine) or plastic (expanded polystyrene), using a ready-made body of a toy polyethylene boat. The engine will be a small tin can, which is filled 1/4 of the volume with water.

On board, under the engine, you need to place a firebox. It is known that heated water is converted into steam, which, expanding, presses on the walls of the motor housing and exits at high speed from the nozzle hole, as a result of which the thrust necessary for movement appears. On the back wall of the engine can you need to drill a hole no larger than 0.5 mm. If the hole is larger, the operating time of the motor will become quite short, and the exhaust speed will be small.

The optimal diameter of the nozzle opening can be determined experimentally. It will correspond to the fastest movement of the model. In this case, the thrust will be greatest. As a firebox, it is possible to use a duralumin or iron lid of a tin can (for example, from a can of ointment, cream or shoe paste).

We use “dry alcohol” in tablets as fuel.

To protect the ship from fire, we attach a layer of asbestos (1.5-2 mm) to the deck. If the boat's hull is made of wood, sand it thoroughly and coat it with nitro varnish several times. The smooth surface reduces resistance in the water and your boat will definitely float. The boat model should be as light as possible. The design and dimensions are shown in the figure.

After filling the tank with water, light the alcohol placed in the firebox lid (this should be done when the boat is on the surface of the water). After a few tens of seconds, the water in the tank will make noise, and a thin stream of steam will begin to escape from the nozzle. Now the steering wheel can be set in such a way that the boat moves in a circle, and within a few minutes (from 2 to 4) you will observe the operation of a simple jet engine.

Throughout its history, the steam engine has had many variations of embodiment in metal. One of these incarnations was the steam rotary engine of mechanical engineer N.N. Tverskoy. This steam rotary engine (steam engine) was actively used in various fields of technology and transport. In the Russian technical tradition of the 19th century, such a rotary engine was called a rotary machine.

The engine was characterized by durability, efficiency and high torque. But with the advent of steam turbines it was forgotten. Below are archival materials raised by the author of this site. The materials are very extensive, so only a part of them is presented here so far.

Steam rotary engine by N.N. Tverskoy

Test rotation of a steam rotary engine with compressed air (3.5 atm).
The model is designed for 10 kW of power at 1500 rpm at a steam pressure of 28-30 atm.

At the end of the 19th century, steam engines - “N. Tverskoy’s rotary engines” were forgotten because piston steam engines turned out to be simpler and more technologically advanced to manufacture (for the industries of that time), and steam turbines provided more power.
But the remark regarding steam turbines is true only in their large weight and overall dimensions. Indeed, with a power of more than 1.5-2 thousand kW, multi-cylinder steam turbines outperform steam rotary engines in all respects, even with the high cost of turbines. And at the beginning of the 20th century, when ship power plants and power units of power plants began to have a power of many tens of thousands of kilowatts, only turbines could provide such capabilities.

BUT - steam turbines have another drawback. When scaling their mass-dimensional parameters downward, the performance characteristics of steam turbines sharply deteriorate. The specific power is significantly reduced, the efficiency drops, while the high cost of manufacturing and high speeds of the main shaft (the need for a gearbox) remain. That is why - in the area of ​​​​power less than 1.5 thousand kW (1.5 MW), it is almost impossible to find a steam turbine that is efficient in all respects, even for a lot of money...

That is why a whole “bouquet” of exotic and little-known designs appeared in this power range. But most often, they are also expensive and ineffective... Screw turbines, Tesla turbines, axial turbines, etc.
But for some reason everyone forgot about steam “rotary machines” - rotary steam engines. Meanwhile, these steam engines are many times cheaper than any blade and screw mechanisms (I say this with knowledge of the matter, as a person who has already made more than a dozen such machines with his own money). At the same time, N. Tverskoy’s steam “rotary rotary machines” have powerful torque from very low speeds, and have an average speed of rotation of the main shaft at full speed from 1000 to 3000 rpm. Those. Such machines, whether for an electric generator or a steam car (truck, tractor, tractor), will not require a gearbox, clutch, etc., but will be directly connected with their shaft to the dynamo, wheels of the steam car, etc.
So, in the form of a steam rotary engine - the “N. Tverskoy rotary machine” system, we have a universal steam engine that will perfectly generate electricity powered by a solid fuel boiler in a remote forestry or taiga village, at a field camp, or generate electricity in a boiler room in a rural settlement or “spinning” on process heat waste (hot air) in a brick or cement factory, in a foundry, etc.
All such heat sources have a power of less than 1 mW, which is why conventional turbines are of little use here. But general technical practice does not yet know of other machines for recycling heat by converting the pressure of the resulting steam into work. So this heat is not utilized in any way - it is simply lost stupidly and irretrievably.
I have already created a “steam rotary machine” to drive an electric generator of 3.5 - 5 kW (depending on the steam pressure), if everything goes as planned, soon there will be a machine of both 25 and 40 kW. Just what is needed to provide cheap electricity from a solid fuel boiler or process heat waste to a rural estate, small farm, field camp, etc., etc.
In principle, rotary engines scale well upward, therefore, by placing many rotor sections on one shaft, it is easy to repeatedly increase the power of such machines by simply increasing the number of standard rotor modules. That is, it is quite possible to create steam rotary machines with a power of 80-160-240-320 kW or more...

But, in addition to medium and relatively large steam power plants, steam power circuits with small steam rotary engines will also be in demand in small power plants.
For example, one of my inventions is “Camping and tourist electric generator using local solid fuel.”
Below is a video where a simplified prototype of such a device is tested.
But the small steam engine is already cheerfully and energetically spinning its electric generator and producing electricity using wood and other pasture fuel.

The main direction of commercial and technical application of steam rotary engines (rotary steam engines) is the generation of cheap electricity using cheap solid fuel and combustible waste. Those. small-scale energy - distributed power generation using steam rotary engines. Imagine how a rotary steam engine would fit perfectly into the operation scheme of a sawmill, somewhere in the Russian North or Siberia (Far East) where there is no central power supply, electricity is provided at an expensive price by a diesel generator powered by diesel fuel imported from afar. But the sawmill itself produces at least half a ton of sawdust chips per day - a slab that has nowhere to put...

Such wood waste has a direct path into the boiler furnace, the boiler produces high-pressure steam, the steam drives a rotary steam engine and it spins an electric generator.

In the same way, it is possible to burn unlimited millions of tons of agricultural crop waste, etc. And there is also cheap peat, cheap thermal coal, and so on. The author of the site calculated that fuel costs when generating electricity through a small steam power plant (steam engine) with a steam rotary engine with a power of 500 kW will be from 0.8 to 1.

2 rubles per kilowatt.

Another interesting option for using a steam rotary engine is to install such a steam engine on a steam car. The truck is a tractor-steam vehicle, with powerful torque and using cheap solid fuel - a very necessary steam engine in agriculture and the forestry industry.

With the use of modern technologies and materials, as well as the use of the “Organic Rankine cycle” in the thermodynamic cycle, it will be possible to increase the effective efficiency to 26-28% using cheap solid fuel (or inexpensive liquid fuel, such as “furnace fuel” or used engine oil). Those. truck - tractor with a steam engine

Truck NAMI-012, with a steam engine. USSR, 1954

and a rotary steam engine with a power of about 100 kW, will consume about 25-28 kg of thermal coal per 100 km (cost 5-6 rubles per kg) or about 40-45 kg of sawdust chips (the price of which in the North is free)...

There are many more interesting and promising areas of application of the rotary steam engine, but the size of this page does not allow us to consider them all in detail. As a result, the steam engine can still occupy a very prominent place in many areas of modern technology and in many sectors of the national economy.

LAUNCHES OF AN EXPERIMENTAL MODEL OF STEAM POWER ELECTRIC GENERATOR WITH STEAM ENGINE

May -2018 After lengthy experiments and prototypes, a small high-pressure boiler was made. The boiler is pressurized to 80 atm pressure, so it will maintain a working pressure of 40-60 atm without difficulty. Put into operation with a prototype model of a steam axial piston engine of my design. Works great - watch the video. In 12-14 minutes from ignition on wood it is ready to produce high pressure steam.

Now I am starting to prepare for the piece production of such units - a high-pressure boiler, a steam engine (rotary or axial piston), and a condenser. The installations will operate in a closed circuit with water-steam-condensate circulation.

The demand for such generators is very high, because 60% of the Russian territory does not have a central power supply and relies on diesel generation.

And the price of diesel fuel is growing all the time and has already reached 41-42 rubles per liter. And even where there is electricity, energy companies keep raising tariffs, and they demand a lot of money to connect new capacities.

Modern steam engines

The modern world forces many inventors to return again to the idea of ​​​​using a steam plant in vehicles intended for transportation. The machines have the ability to use several options for power units running on steam.

  1. Piston motor
  2. Principle of operation
  3. Rules for operating steam-powered vehicles
  4. Advantages of the machine

Piston motor

Modern steam engines can be divided into several groups:


Structurally, the installation includes:

  • starting device;
  • two-cylinder power unit;
  • steam generator in a special container equipped with a coil.

Principle of operation

The process goes as follows.

After turning on the ignition, power begins to flow from the battery of the three engines. From the first, a blower is put into operation, pumping air masses through the radiator and transferring them through air channels to a mixing device with a burner.

At the same time, the next electric motor activates the fuel transfer pump, which supplies condensate masses from the tank through the serpentine device of the heating element to the body part of the water separator and the heater located in the economizer to the steam generator.
Before starting, there is no way for steam to get to the cylinders, since its path is blocked by a throttle valve or spool, which is controlled by the rocker mechanics. By turning the handles in the direction necessary for movement and slightly opening the valve, the mechanic puts the steam mechanism into operation.
The exhaust vapors flow through a single collector to a distribution valve, where they are divided into a pair of unequal shares. The smaller part enters the nozzle of the mixing burner, mixes with the air mass, and is ignited by a candle.

The resulting flame begins to heat the container. After this, the combustion product passes into the water separator, and moisture condenses and flows into a special water tank. The remaining gas escapes out.


The second part of the steam, larger in volume, passes through the distributor valve into the turbine, which drives the rotor device of the electric generator.

Rules for operating steam-powered vehicles

The steam plant can be directly connected to the drive unit of the machine's transmission, and when it begins to operate, the machine begins to move. But in order to increase efficiency, experts recommend using clutch mechanics. This is convenient for towing operations and various inspection operations.


During the movement, the mechanic, taking into account the situation, can change the speed by manipulating the power of the steam piston. This can be done by throttling the steam with a valve, or by changing the steam supply with a rocker device. In practice, it is better to use the first option, since the actions resemble working with the gas pedal, but a more economical way is to use the rocker mechanism.

For short stops, the driver slows down and uses the rocker to stop the operation of the unit. For long-term parking, the electrical circuit that de-energizes the blower and fuel pump is turned off.

Advantages of the machine

The device is distinguished by its ability to work with virtually no restrictions, overloads are possible, and there is a wide range of adjustment of power indicators. It should be added that during any stop the steam engine stops working, which cannot be said about the motor.

The design does not require installing a gearbox, a starter device, an air purification filter, a carburetor, or a turbocharger. In addition, the ignition system is simplified, there is only one spark plug.

In conclusion, we can add that the production of such cars and their operation will be cheaper than cars with an internal combustion engine, since the fuel will be inexpensive and the materials used in production will be the cheapest.

Read also:

Steam engines were installed and powered most steam locomotives from the early 1800s until the 1950s.

I would like to note that the operating principle of these engines has always remained unchanged, despite changes in their design and dimensions.

The animated illustration shows the operating principle of a steam engine.


To generate steam supplied to the engine, boilers using both wood and coal, and liquid fuel were used.

First measure

Steam from the boiler enters the steam chamber, from which it enters the upper (front) part of the cylinder through a steam gate valve (indicated in blue). The pressure created by the steam pushes the piston down to BDC. As the piston moves from TDC to BDC, the wheel makes half a revolution.

Release

At the very end of the piston's movement toward BDC, the steam valve moves, releasing remaining steam through an outlet port located below the valve. The remaining steam escapes, creating the sound characteristic of steam engines.

Second measure

At the same time, moving the valve to release residual steam opens the steam inlet to the lower (rear) part of the cylinder. The pressure created by the steam in the cylinder forces the piston to move towards TDC. At this time, the wheel makes another half revolution.

Release

At the end of the piston's movement to TDC, the remaining steam is released through the same exhaust port.

The cycle repeats again.

The steam engine has a so-called dead center at the end of each stroke as the valve transitions from the expansion stroke to the exhaust stroke. For this reason, each steam engine has two cylinders, allowing the engine to be started from any position.

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File Short description Size
G.S. Zhiritsky. Steam engines. Moscow: Gosenergoizdat, 1951.
The book discusses ideal processes in steam engines, real processes in a steam engine, study of the working process of a machine using an indicator diagram, multiple expansion machines, spool steam distribution, valve steam distribution, steam distribution in once-through machines, reversing mechanisms, dynamics of a steam engine, etc.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
27.8 Mb
A.A. Radzig. James Watt and the invention of the steam engine. Petrograd: Scientific Chemical and Technical Publishing House, 1924.
The improvement of the steam engine made by Watt at the end of the 18th century is one of the largest events in the history of technology. It had incalculable economic consequences, since it was the last and decisive link in a number of important inventions made in England in the second half of the 18th century and which led to the rapid and complete development of large capitalist industry both in England itself and then in other European countries.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
0.99 Mb
M. Lesnikov. James Watt. Moscow: Publisher “Journal Association”, 1935.
This edition presents a biographical novel about James Watt (1736-1819), an English inventor and creator of a universal heat engine. Invented (1774-84) a steam engine with a double-acting cylinder, in which he used a centrifugal regulator, a transmission from the cylinder rod to a balancer with a parallelogram, etc. Watt's machine played a big role in the transition to machine production.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
67.4 Mb
A.S. Yastrzhembsky. Technical thermodynamics. Moscow-Leningrad: State Energy Publishing House, 1933.
General theoretical principles are presented in the light of the two basic laws of thermodynamics. Since technical thermodynamics provides the basis for the study of steam boilers and heat engines, this course studies, as fully as possible, the processes of transforming thermal energy into mechanical energy in steam engines and internal combustion engines.
In the second part, when studying the ideal cycle of a steam engine, the collapse of steam and the outflow of vapor from the holes, the importance of the i-S diagram of water vapor is noted, the use of which simplifies the research task. Particular attention is paid to the presentation of the thermodynamics of gas flow and the cycles of internal combustion engines.
51.2 Mb
Installation of boiler systems. Scientific Editor Eng. Yu.M. Rivkin. Moscow: GosStroyIzdat, 1961.
This book is intended to improve the skills of fitters who install boiler installations of low and medium power and are familiar with the techniques of metalwork.
9.9 Mb
E.Ya.Sokolov. District heating and heating networks. Moscow-Leningrad: State Energy Publishing House, 1963.
The book outlines the energy fundamentals of district heating, describes heat supply systems, gives the theory and methodology for calculating heating networks, discusses methods for regulating heat supply, provides designs and methods for calculating equipment for heat treatment plants, heating networks and subscriber inputs, provides basic information on the methodology of technical and economic calculations and on organizing the operation of heating networks.
11.2 Mb
A.I.Abramov, A.V.Ivanov-Smolensky. Calculation and design of hydrogenerators
In modern electrical systems, electrical energy is generated mainly at thermal power plants using turbogenerators, and at hydroelectric power plants using hydrogenerators.

Therefore, hydrogenerators and turbogenerators occupy a leading place in the subject of coursework and diploma design of electromechanical and electrical power specialties in colleges. This manual provides a description of the design of hydrogenerators, justifies the choice of their sizes and outlines the methodology for electromagnetic, thermal, ventilation and mechanical calculations with brief explanations of the calculation formulas. To facilitate the study of the material, an example of the calculation of a hydrogenerator is given. When compiling the manual, the authors used modern literature on manufacturing technology, design and calculation of hydrogen generators, an abbreviated list of which is given at the end of the book.

10.7 Mb
F.L. Liventsev. Power plants with internal combustion engines. Leningrad: Publishing House "Machine Building", 1969.
The book examines modern standard power plants for various purposes with internal combustion engines. Recommendations are given for the selection of parameters and calculation of elements of fuel preparation, fuel supply and cooling systems, oil and air-starting systems, and gas-air ducts.

An analysis of the requirements for internal combustion engine installations is given, ensuring their high efficiency, reliability and durability.

11.2 Mb
M.I.Kamsky. Steam hero. Drawings by V.V. Spassky. Moscow: 7th printing house "Mospechat", 1922.
...In Watt’s homeland, in the city council of the town of Greenock, there is a monument to him with the inscription: “Born in Greenock in 1736, died in 1819.” Here, there still exists a library named after him, founded by him during his lifetime, and at the University of Glasgow, prizes for the best scientific works in Mechanics, Physics and Chemistry are issued annually from the capital donated by Watt. But James Watt, in essence, does not need any other monuments than those countless steam engines that, in all corners of the earth, make noise, knock and hum, working on the yardarm of humanity.
10.6 Mb
A.S. Abramov and B.I. Sheinin. Fuel, furnaces and boiler systems. Moscow: Publishing House of the Ministry of Communal Services of the RSFSR, 1953.
The book discusses the basic properties of fuels and their combustion processes. A method for determining the heat balance of a boiler installation is presented.

Various designs of combustion devices are given. The designs of various boilers are described - hot water and steam, from water tube to fire tube and with smoke tubes. Information is provided on the installation and operation of boilers, their piping - fittings, instrumentation. Issues of fuel supply, gas supply, fuel depots, ash removal, chemical treatment of water at stations, auxiliary equipment (pumps, fans, pipelines...) are also discussed in the book. Information is given on layout solutions and the cost of calculating heat supply.

9.15 Mb
V. Dombrovsky, A. Shmulyan. Victory of Prometheus. Stories about electricity. Leningrad: Publishing House "Children's Literature", 1966.
This book is about electricity.
It does not contain a complete exposition of the theory of electricity or a description of all the possible uses of electricity. Ten such books would not be enough for this.
When people mastered electricity, unprecedented opportunities opened up for them to facilitate and mechanize physical labor.
The machines that made it possible to do this and the use of electricity as a motive force are described in this book.
But electricity makes it possible not only to increase the strength of human hands, but also the strength of the human mind, to mechanize not only physical, but also mental labor. We also tried to talk about how this can be done.
If this book helps young readers even a little to imagine the great path that technology has taken from the first discoveries to the present day, and to see the breadth of the horizon that tomorrow opens before us, we can consider our task completed.
23.6 Mb
V.N. Bogoslovsky, V.P. Shcheglov. Heating and ventilation. Moscow: Publishing House of Construction Literature, 1970.
This textbook is intended for students of the “Water Supply and Sewerage” faculty of construction universities. It was written in accordance with the program for the course “Heating and Ventilation” approved by the Ministry of Higher and Secondary Special Education of the USSR. The purpose of the textbook is to give students basic information about the design, calculation, installation, testing and operation of heating and ventilation systems. Reference materials are provided to the extent necessary to complete the course project on heating and ventilation.
5.25 Mb
A.S.Orlin, M.G.Kruglov. Combined two-stroke engines. Moscow: Publishing House "Machine Building", 1968.
The book contains the fundamentals of the theory of gas exchange processes in the cylinder and in adjacent systems of two-stroke combined engines.

Approximate dependencies related to the influence of unsteady motion during gas exchange and the results of experimental work in this area are presented.
Experimental work performed on engines and models is also considered in order to study the quality of the gas exchange process, issues of development and improvement of design schemes and individual components of these engines and equipment for research. In addition, the state of work on supercharging and improving the designs of two-stroke combined engines and, in particular, air supply systems and supercharging units, as well as prospects for the further development of these engines are described.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.

15.8 Mb
M.K.Weisbein. Heat engines. Steam engines, rotary machines, steam turbines, air engines and internal combustion engines. Theory, design, installation, testing of heat engines and their care. A guide for chemists, technicians and owners of thermal machines. St. Petersburg: Publication by K.L. Ricker, 1910.
The purpose of this work is to acquaint persons who have not received a systematic technical education with the theory of heat engines, their design, installation, care and testing.
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7.3 Mb
Nikolay Bozheryanov Theory of steam engines, with a detailed description of the double-action machine according to the Watt and Bolton system. Approved by the Marine Scientific Committee and printed with the Highest permission.

St. Petersburg: Printing house of the naval cadet corps, 1849.
“... I would consider myself happy and completely rewarded for my labors if this book were accepted by Russian mechanics as a guide, and if it, like Tredgold’s work, although in a small way, contributed to the development of mechanical knowledge and industry in our dear fatherland.”
N. Bozheryanov.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.

42.6 Mb
VC. Bogomazov, A.D. Berkuta, P.P. Kulikovsky. Steam engines. Kyiv: State Publishing House of Technical Literature of the Ukrainian SSR, 1952.
The book examines the theory, design and operation of steam engines, steam turbines and condensing plants and provides the basics of calculation of steam engines and their parts.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
6.09 Mb
Lopatin P.I. Victory couple. Moscow: New Moscow, 1925.
“Tell me - do you know who created our factories and plants for us, who was the first to give a person the opportunity to race on trains by rail and boldly sail across the oceans? Do you know who was the first to create a car and that same tractor that now so diligently and obediently does hard work in our agriculture? Are you familiar with the one who defeated the horse and the ox and was the first to conquer the air, allowing a person not only to stay in the air, but also to control his flying machine, to send it where he wants, and not the capricious wind? All this was done by steam, the simplest water vapor that plays with the lid of your kettle, “sings” in the samovar and rises in white puffs above the surface of boiling water. You’ve never paid attention to it before, and it never occurred to you that useless water vapor could do such enormous work, conquer land, water and air and create almost all of modern industry.”
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
10.1 Mb
Shchurov M.V. Guide to Internal Combustion Engines. Moscow-Leningrad: State Energy Publishing House, 1955.
The book examines the structure and operating principles of engines of common types in the USSR, instructions for caring for engines, organizing their repairs, basic repair work, provides information on the economics of engines and assessing their power and load, and covers issues of organizing the workplace and the driver’s work.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
11.5 Mb
Technological engineer Serebrennikov A. Foundations of the theory of steam engines and boilers. St. Petersburg: Printed in the printing house of Karl Wulff, 1860.
Currently, the science of working in pairs is one of the types of knowledge that arouses keen interest. Indeed, hardly any other science, in practical terms, has made such advances in such a short time as the use of steam for all kinds of applications.
Sent me a book Stankevich Leonid.
109 Mb
High-speed diesel engines 4Ch 10.5/13-2 and 6Ch 10.5/13-2. Description and maintenance instructions. Editor-in-Chief Eng. V.K.Serdyuk. Moscow - Kyiv: MASHGIZ, 1960.
The book describes the designs and sets out the basic rules for maintenance and care of diesel engines 4Ch 10.5/13-2 and 6Ch 10.5/13-2.
The book is intended for mechanics and mechanics servicing these diesel engines.
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14.3 Mb
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I’ve been wanting to write my own article in Packflyer for a long time, and I’ve finally decided to do it.
One of my first serious projects was the manufacture of a steam engine, I started it at the age of 12 and continued for about 7 years, as I increased my tools and straightened out my crooked hands.

It all started with videos and articles about steam engines, after which I decided why I was worse. As I remember then, I wanted to build it to generate electricity for a table lamp. As it seemed to me then, it had to be beautiful, small in size, work on pencil shavings and stand on the windowsill to release hot gases to the street through a drilled hole in the window (it didn’t come to that).
As a result, some of the first models that were sketched in haste and built using a file, pieces of wood, epoxy, nails and a drill were ugly and unworkable.



After which a series of improvements and bug fixes began. During that time, I had to try myself not only as a foundry worker, melting a flywheel (which later turned out to be unnecessary), but also learned to work in the drawing programs KOMPAS 3D, AutoCAD (which was useful at the institute).



But no matter how hard I tried, something always went wrong. Constantly could not achieve the required precision in the manufacture of pistons and cylinders, which led to jamming or failure to create compression and made the engines not working for long or not working at all.
A particular problem was the creation of a steam boiler for the engine. I decided to make my first boiler according to a simple diagram I saw somewhere. An ordinary tin can was taken with a lid sealed at the open end with a tube for the engine coming out. The main disadvantage of the boiler was that the water should not be allowed to boil away because... An increase in temperature may cause the solder to melt. And of course, as always happens, during the experiment the heating was overextended, which led to a mini-explosion and the release of hot steam and rusty water along the walls and ceiling….

Subsequently, the production of the steam engine and boiler ceased for several months.


My father’s purchase of a hobby lathe helped me make significant progress in creating a steam engine. The parts went like clockwork in terms of quality and speed of production, but due to the fact that from the very beginning there was no clear plan for building the steam engine, everything changed during the process, which led to the accumulation of many different parts that were rejected for some reason.


And this is only part of what remains today.


In order not to repeat the sad situation of the first boiler, it was decided to make it super-mega reliable:

And for even greater safety, a pressure gauge was installed

This boiler does have a downside: to warm up such a bandura to operating temperature you have to heat it with a gas burner for about 20 minutes.
As a result, with blood and sweat, they finally made their OWN steam engine, which, however, did not run on pencil shavings and did not meet the very initial requirements, but as they say: “it will do.”




Well, the video: