Varietal blueberries began to be bred in the USA and Canada from a wild species - Vaccinium corymbosus, or high blueberry. In advertising articles, garden blueberries are often called blueberries or blueberry trees, since they are similar in appearance to the leaves. IN English language Both blueberries and blueberries are called the same - Blueberry (blue berry), which is why confusion can occur. However, these berries are different.
Table: difference between blueberries and blueberries
There are currently no cultivated varieties of blueberries. Common blueberries and marsh blueberries grow in our forests. The favorite place for these plants to grow is in damp places with good lighting. These wild species can also be grown on a personal plot, but in terms of productivity they are inferior to varietal blueberries, and their berries, as a rule, are single and not in clusters.
Blueberries and blueberries are very similar, but still have differences both in the structure of the bush and in the taste of the berries
Conditions for growing garden blueberries
This plant is unpretentious, but for successful growth and production big harvest requires certain growing conditions:
Planting blueberry seedlings
Do you want to get good harvests every year? Choose the right place to plant on your site.
Choosing a place to plant blueberries
This must be the most sunny place, not blown by winds. Blueberries will also grow in shade, but you won’t get big harvests - the berries will be small and sour.
Blueberries bear fruit best in group plantings. Although it does not require pollinating plants, it still requires planting 2–3 different varieties nearby will increase your harvest. And, of course, in this case, you need to take into account the flowering time of the selected varieties: it should be approximately the same. Late-ripening varieties begin to bloom when the early ones have already finished flowering.
Preparing holes for planting
Site preparation should be taken seriously. This is the most time-consuming process in caring for blueberries. It consists of the following steps:
- Dig a hole 80x80 cm in size and 50 cm deep. On heavy clay soils, the depth of the hole is increased by another 10–15 cm for drainage.
- Stones and sand are poured into the bottom of the pit (broken brick, coarse crushed stone or expanded clay can be used).
- Then the hole is filled with a mixture of three parts of high-moor peat, one part of forest soil and one part of sawdust from coniferous trees.
If there is no forest soil, then it can be replaced with pine bark, pine litter, or a mixture of them in various proportions.
- Add a little sand, 40–50 g of sulfur and mix everything well and compact it a little.
Sour peat must be added to the planting pit for blueberries.
Distance between bushes
When planting multiple plants, consider their mature size. Bushes should not shade each other. Depending on the height of the bush, the distance between them varies:
Selection of seedlings
Blueberries grow slowly and begin to bloom and produce crops from the fourth year after planting. This feature allows you to plant and replant plants of a “respectable” age. Even five- and six-year-old bushes take root well. However, it is still better to opt for 2–3-year-old seedlings with a closed root system. They are easier for a novice gardener to work with.
It is better to purchase planting material from trusted large nurseries. You can also take a cutting from your relatives or neighbors who have been growing blueberries for many years and getting good yields. They will give you not only cuttings, but also a lot of tips on planting and caring for this plant.
When choosing blueberries for planting, you should give preference to 2–3-year-old seedlings with a closed root system
Planting blueberries
The process of planting blueberry seedlings consists of several stages:
Mulching is good for any plant. It retains moisture, prevents the soil from overheating and prevents the growth of weeds. Blueberry roots are located close to the surface, and drying out of the top layer, as well as overheating in hot weather, has a bad effect on the condition of the plant. Mulch solves this problem; you just need its layer to be at least 5–7 cm.
Blueberry care
Caring for blueberries is not very difficult.
Proper watering
The main thing is watering. One adult plant requires an average of at least 20 liters of water per week. It is best to break this norm into two times. You need to water in the morning or evening when Sun rays still or not so scorching. In very hot weather, water more often and more. A sufficient amount of moisture is very important in July and August, when the berries ripen and flower buds are formed - your future harvest. To this add spraying the bushes with water in the afternoon.
At the same time, there is no need to over-water. Stagnation of water in a hole for more than two days can lead to rotting of the roots and weakening of the plant.
You need to water blueberries in the morning or evening, when the sun is not too hot.
Ensuring soil acidity
To maintain soil acidity at the required level, plants are sometimes watered with acidified water. It is prepared from the following ingredients:
- table vinegar 9% (100 ml per 10 liters of water);
- citric acid (1–2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or electrolyte for acid batteries (20–30 ml per 10 liters of water).
Three to four times a season, this addition to water will help maintain soil acidity at the desired level.
Loosening for oxygen access
In addition to watering, loosening the soil is also important. This must be done carefully and to a shallow depth, since blueberry roots are superficial and can be easily damaged. Loosening reduces moisture evaporation and saturates the upper layers of soil with oxygen. If necessary, add peat and mulch under the plants.
Top dressing
Blueberries respond well to fertilizing. Don't neglect this. A minimum of 2 foliar and 1 root feeding per season is necessary for the plant. They are carried out from the beginning of June for a month and a half - until mid-July. There are special complex fertilizers for blueberries on sale. They are easy to use and have a balanced composition. Both root and foliar feeding are required:
It is best to carry out root feeding in rainy weather so that fertilizers are better absorbed into the ground, but if it is hot and dry, it does not matter. Water the plant, sprinkle fertilizer and water again.
Preparing for winter
In winter, plants are mulched with an additional layer of peat or sawdust. Young blueberry bushes can be covered with any breathable material (for example, spunbond), especially if your region has little snowy winters. Under no circumstances should you use plastic film for covering.
Bush pruning
To ensure that the bushes are not too thick and bear fruit well, it is necessary to prune them correctly. There are several types of pruning, each of which is carried out for specific purposes.
Table: Types of blueberry pruning
| Trimming type | What work is being carried out |
| Sanitary | Remove dry, broken and infected branches. It is better to do this in the spring, but you can carry out such pruning at any time when there is a need for it. |
| Formative | Remove shoots that thicken the crown and branches growing inside the bush. Low-growing shoots are also removed. This type of pruning is used for bushes from 4 years of age. |
| Rejuvenating | In 10-year-old bushes, all shoots older than 6 years are cut out. This stimulates the growth of new shoots, which increases the yield of the plant. |
Blueberry transplant
If there is a need to transplant mature plant, perform the following procedures:
- The bush is shortened by half, and weak and thin shoots are completely removed.
- Transplant the trimmed bush to a new location.
- The following spring, all flowers that appear are picked off.
- From the third year, only those branches that are well illuminated by the sun are left on the bushes. This stimulates the growth of new flower shoots.
As practice shows, plants up to 5–6 years of age tolerate transplantation well.
Blueberry propagation
You can propagate blueberries:
- cuttings,
- layering,
- seeds.
Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages; you need to choose the one that is convenient for a particular situation.
From cutting to bush
Propagation by cuttings - convenient, but not quick way increase the number of bushes of this plant on the site. The procedure is as follows:
After all these operations, we will receive a healthy seedling suitable for planting.
Receiving layerings
To obtain a seedling using layering proceed as follows:
- The tops of selected annual shoots are shortened slightly and pinned to the ground.
- Sprinkle the cuttings with sawdust.
- For better rooting constantly moisten the soil and, as the cuttings grow, increase the layer of sawdust.
- After 2–3 years, the shoots are separated from the bush and replanted. During this time, the seedling is already quite viable and takes root well in its new location.
Blueberry cuttings are attached to the ground using a metal bracket
From seed to fruiting plant
Growing blueberries from seeds is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. Blueberries grow slowly, and a full-fledged seedling from a seed will grow in three years, and it will begin to bear fruit in another four years.
This method is often used by breeders, since the chance of a successful genetic mutation when breeding a new species or improving certain qualities of an existing variety is much higher than when working with a plant propagated by cuttings.
It's better to buy a seedling. But if you have time and desire, you can plant blueberries with your own seeds or purchased at a specialty store.
To get your own seeds:
- Take fully ripe berries, which are mashed into a paste.
- The resulting mass is stirred in water. Good seeds will remain at the bottom, and part of the pulp, berry peel and unripe or empty seeds will float, after which the resulting surface layer is drained.
- The seeds are dried a little on a cloth. They can be planted immediately or left for planting in the spring. If the seeds are left until spring, they are dried completely.
- In spring, the seeds are placed in damp sand or moss and kept there for 3 months.
- After this, they are sown on wet peat, without deepening, and covered with a small layer of sand.
- Moisten with a spray bottle, cover with glass or film and place in a warm place. The seeds will germinate within a month.
- During this time, the greenhouses are periodically ventilated and, if necessary, moistened the soil.
- After the shoots appear, the film is removed and the containers are placed in a warm, well-lit place.
- When the sprouts produce 3-4 true leaves, they are planted in separate containers and transferred to a greenhouse for growing for 2 years.
- After all these procedures, the plants are planted on permanent place V open ground.
Diseases and pests of blueberries
Blueberries are quite resistant to diseases and pests, but prevention has never been superfluous. This is done two times:
- in the spring, before the buds open, the plants are sprayed with Azophos against fungal diseases;
- Before flowering, spray with Skor against fungal diseases and rot.
In the autumn, after harvesting, the treatment with Skor is repeated. Do not leave fallen leaves under the bushes - pests and pathogens can overwinter in them.
Common diseases
When immunity decreases, the plant may become sick.
Table: blueberry diseases and ways to combat them
| Name of the disease | Pathogen | Symptoms | Ways to fight |
| Stem cancer | Fungus Godronia cassandrae Peck | Brown spots appear on the branches. Over time, an ulcer forms at the site of the spot. Leaves turn brownish-red |
|
| Black spot | Fungus Phomopsis viticola | Brown spots appear on the leaves. The tops of young shoots darken and wither | Sprinkle with Topsin, Euparen or Fundazol twice before flowering and once after harvesting. |
| Mummification of berries | Fungus Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi | Young branches and inflorescences wither, and the berries dry out and fall off |
|
| Gray mold, or botrytis | Botrytis cinerea mushroom | The berries are affected, then the entire bush. Gray fluff appears on rotten fruits. The branches turn brown, gray, as if covered with frost |
|
| Moniliosis | Mushroom Monilia oxycoccii Wor. | All parts of the plant are affected. The first sign is yellowing of the tip of the shoot during flowering, then the branch dies | Cut out the affected branches and burn them. Treat with fungicide in spring and autumn |
| Anthracnose | Colletotrichum gloeosporioides mushroom | The leaves become spotted and fall off. The fruits rot and become covered with orange dots | The same as for moniliosis |
Most The best way keeping plantings healthy is prevention. Regularly inspect plants and perform sanitary pruning. Before the buds open and after the leaves fall, spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture. Do not allow the tree trunks to become overgrown with weeds.
Pests
Blueberries have few pests. It may appear:
- kidney mite,
- leaf roller,
- flower beetle
In such cases, spray with any preparation that is used to treat trees. Aphids are carried by ants, so make sure there are no anthills in your garden. To protect against birds, plants are covered with fine mesh.
To protect against birds, blueberry bushes are covered with fine mesh netting.
Choosing the right blueberry variety
When choosing a variety for planting, be sure to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region. The ripening period of berries affects the possibility of obtaining a harvest. Early varieties They begin to sing already at the end of June, mid-season ones - from mid-July, late ones - from the second half of August. For example, in the Moscow region late varieties does not always have time to reach the required ripeness. And in the Kuban or Crimea, the warmth can last until late autumn, which allows late-ripening varieties to bear a good harvest.
The height of the bush is important in ensuring trouble-free wintering of blueberries. If winters in your region are harsh and snowy, then it will be easier for a short plant to overwinter without freezing in a snowdrift than for a taller one.
Table: overview of popular blueberry varieties
| Variety | a brief description of | Advantages | Flaws |
| Berkeley | Height up to 2 m. Berries of medium size, medium ripening period (early August) |
|
|
| Blugold | Plant height up to 1.2 m, early ripening, berries of good taste |
| Regular pruning required |
| Bluecrop | Height up to 2 m. High quality berries, mid-season variety |
| Maturation extended |
| Taiga beauty | Tall, medium ripening. Sweet berries |
| No data |
| Patriot | Height up to 1.8 m. Early ripening. Good tasting berries |
| The first berries are large, subsequent ones are smaller |
| Northland | Low-growing - up to 1.2 m. Mid-season. Sweet berries |
| Berries become smaller over time |
Peculiarities of growing blueberries in different regions of Russia
When growing blueberries in Siberia, you should give preference to varieties bred in the Central Siberian Botanical Garden. They are better adapted to local conditions and can withstand frosts down to –42 °C. Suitable varieties:
- Taiga beauty,
- Marvelous,
- Yurkovskaya.
For Central Russia and Leningrad region Early and mid-ripening varieties are suitable. Early cold snaps are not uncommon in this region, and late-ripening varieties do not always have time to fully ripen. The best varieties:
- Bluecrop,
- Patriot,
- Taiga beauty.
Even late varieties can be grown in Belarus. For example, the Berkeley variety begins to bear fruit in the last ten days of August. In addition, the following varieties have become widespread and have proven themselves well:
- Bonus,
- Blue Ray,
- Blugold,
- Northblue.
IN Krasnodar region and the Rostov region is better to give preference tall plants. The following varieties grow and bear fruit well:
- Bluecrop,
- Patriot.
Low-growing blueberry varieties (up to 1.2 m) are popular in the northern regions of Ukraine. Dense plantings of low-growing blueberries are successfully used in landscape design of plots. Among these varieties we can note:
- Notreblue (90 cm);
- Notrecountry, Chippewa (0.8–1 m);
- Blugold (1.2 m);
- Notrland.
All varieties are frost-resistant and are not inferior in yield to their tall counterparts.
Low-growing varieties of blueberries (for example, Chippewa) are popular in Ukraine
Despite the labor-intensive planting process, caring for blueberries in the future is quite simple.
Millions of amateur gardeners regularly add exquisite shrubs to their collections. Therefore, garden blueberries, planting and caring for which require special knowledge, are worthy of becoming an exclusive exhibit of the garden. To do this, you need to successfully select the variety and prepare the soil. During the period of intensive growth, it is important to fertilize the soil and also trim the branches. The culture propagation procedure plays an important role. All these subtleties need to be considered.
Where does it grow?
IN natural environment water drinker (one of the names for blueberries) can most often be found in swampy areas and in the tundra. The intoxicating wild rosemary and blueberries often live next to it. A characteristic feature These territories are sufficiently moistened soil, although in summer it must be warmed by the sun. The most common regions where blueberries grow in Russia are:
Since this northern berry is in great demand, its plantations in wildlife are thinning out. In this regard, residents of the Arkhangelsk, Moscow, Vologda and Leningrad regions, as well as in the Komi Republic and Karelia, strive to grow the crabgrass on their personal plots. However, not all varieties are suitable for some regions. Planting blueberries in the Moscow region and caring for them has specific features.
In each bed it is necessary to plant two or more varieties. Then you can achieve the highest yields.
Selecting a variety depending on the region
The main condition for prosperity for a plant is a successful wintering. In addition, the water drinker variety must be resistant to diseases, as well as possible droughts. When choosing, it is important to consider the ripening period of the berries (early or medium). This will allow harvesting as early as possible (July, August). Therefore, the following varieties of blueberries are suitable for the Moscow region:
Spring is considered a favorable time for planting seedlings at a dacha near Moscow. The fact that the buds did not have time to swell ultimately contributes to the seedling’s adaptation to new environment. It is during this season that planting and caring for garden blueberries will be most optimal. Of course, planting can also be done in the fall. However, this must be done in the first half of October (a month before the start of frost) so that the plant does not freeze.
A newly planted bush must be protected from freezing. It is better to carefully wrap it in burlap when the temperature drops. Relevant for autumn planting.
Preparing the site
Although the berry grows in the tundra, you should choose a sunny and open place for it. Under trees or near tall bushes is not the best option for growing blueberries. As a result, the fruits are crushed, the taste will become more sour, and the yield will drop by 3 times.
You should choose a site that does not have very deep groundwater - about half a meter. So, the ground will be relatively wet. The soil should be acidic. To do this you will need to measure the pH level. The norm is between 3.5 and 5.5. Neutral soil should be acidified so that the bush can develop.
Use colloidal sulfur (up to 60 g), orthophosphoric or citric acid. Ammonium sulfate is sometimes used. The substrate is filled in 6 months before planting and compacted.
Moreover, it is important to choose areas protected from the wind. The shelter will be either a fence or a fence made of ornamental plants. The soil for planting shrubs should be thoroughly loosened, saturating it with oxygen. Then it is important to properly distribute the blueberry seedlings in the garden to ensure their intensive growth and reproduction. Gardeners recommend adhering to the following:
Clay soil requires drainage. The bushes are planted on ridges of prepared substrate. You can dig trenches (width - 1.2 m, depth - 0.80 m) and cover them with film: completely or just the walls. If the material is settled to the bottom, then cuts are made at a distance of half a meter for drainage. This system provides upper layer soil moisture. Also, when growing a dove in the country, you should create it natural conditions a habitat. Watering in the morning and evening will bring the marsh shrub one iota closer to its homeland. But in this case, you need to show balance so that the moisture does not stagnate.
Before planting, place the container with the seedling in water for 15-30 minutes to soften the soil. This will help remove the plant without damaging the root system.
Soil and planting specifics
A native of the swampy tundra does not like ordinary soil in the garden or vegetable garden of the Moscow region. However, it easily takes root on depleted soil and does not need humus or compost. Meanwhile, gardeners still have to make soil for blueberries with their own hands, which differs in composition from the usual garden soil.
At the bottom of the formed hole, drainage should be laid from chips or pine branches. Then a substrate is prepared consisting of the following:
- a mixture of sphagnum (moss, wood, and plant remains) and high-moor peat;
- pine needle humus;
- sand;
- sawdust;
- forest land.
Half of this planting material is peat mixture. All other components are added in equal quantities and mixed. The substrate is poured into the trench and filled with a small amount of water. 
The bush is planted in the ground, first straightening the roots. The root collar should sink 6-10 cm into the ground.
It is worth buying seedlings that have reached two or three years of age.
Finally, the soil around the bush is lightly compacted and watered. It is definitely worth laying pine sawdust around the trunk. 
The height of the layer is about 10 cm. The row spacing is also covered with grass. This prevents plants from overheating and drying out because mulch prevents moisture from evaporating. It is advisable to treat the stems and crown with fungicidal agents as a preventive measure against pests (fungi and bacteria).
Subtleties of care
At first, the seedlings must be regularly watered and weeded to prevent crust formation. The reason for this is the superficial root system.
Pruning always plays an important role in care. It is needed for a stable and large harvest. It should be started in the 5th year after planting and carried out every spring. It is necessary to cut off branches that:
- thicken the bush (they are located near the root collar);
- have reached 6 years of age;
- frozen in winter (most often these are shoots).
Of course, in the spring it is important to treat shrubs with fungicides (against fungi and diseases) and insecticides (against insects). During this period, gardeners fertilize the soil using acidic mineral fertilizers such as:
These products must be diluted with water. For 10 liters of liquid there are 50-100 g of one of the fertilizers. However, it is better to read the instructions for each of them.
Before purchasing a plant, you must inspect the seedling. The branches and bark must be undamaged, and the roots must be completely covered (in a bag or container).
Many varieties of blueberries are frost-resistant, but experts advise proper care of the crop in the fall, ensuring it is adequately prepared for winter. As soon as the first frost has passed:
- tilt the shoots towards the ground;
- secure the branches with staples or wire;
- wrap in agrofibre or burlap.
It is prohibited to use polyethylene materials for shelters. As the temperature rises, a humid microclimate is created under the shelter. The shoots wither and die over time. 
In summer, blueberries need an intensive watering system. In 7 days, it is worth spending 20-30 liters of water on one bush, depending on the air temperature. 
It is extremely important to monitor soil moisture throughout July and August, because rudimentary shoots are formed during these months. next year. Moisture deficiency reduces yield.
Reproduction
Thousands of gardeners practice growing blueberries from seeds at home, but this is a long process. First you need to select overripe fruits without rot or defects. It is desirable that they be as large as possible. Then they act according to the following algorithm:
- dried and stored at a temperature of 0+5°C;
- planted in spring in thawed (warm) soil to a depth of 1.5 cm;
- cover with mulch - leaves, sawdust and peat;
- Water the beds regularly and fluff up the beds.
Feeding begins from the 2nd year. When the bush reaches three years of age, it needs to be transplanted to a permanent location.
In addition to this, blueberry propagation is carried out using cuttings, but for this you need to watch specially prepared videos. This is a more efficient and reliable method. Branches (length 8-15 cm) with shoots should be harvested immediately after the bush sheds its leaves. In the spring they are cut before the buds awaken. The cut must be made evenly, the first bud from the top is at a distance of 2 cm.
Before planting, the cuttings are stored for 30 days in the refrigerator (t=0+5°C). This will speed up the development process. At an angle of 90°, they are planted in the soil with an oblique cut down, made immediately under the bud. It is important to remember to dust the edge with rooting powder. This preparation can also be made in a greenhouse.
It is necessary to water the cuttings regularly. You can build a canopy from a film covered with spunbond to create high humidity. After 2 months, remove the hut and transplant the cuttings.
With such an arsenal of knowledge about planting and caring for garden blueberries, you can get a rich harvest and delight your family with such a delicious treat.
The subtleties of growing blueberries in Siberia - video
There are garden and forest blueberries. Garden blueberries grow in tall, powerful bushes with large berries. Wild blueberry is a bush from 30 to 100 cm, its harvest is smaller and smaller in quantity, but the berries themselves contain more vitamins. Therefore, many gardeners want to grow garden blueberries on their site in order to obtain unusually tasty and healthy berries.
Features of autumn planting blueberries
Blueberries are planted both in spring and autumn, or even in summer, if the seedling has a closed root system. Seedlings take root best spring planting, but if the blueberries are grown in a pot, they can be planted in the fall.
For autumn planting, choose seedlings with a closed root system
A feature of autumn blueberry plantings is the pruning of shoots from one-year-old seedlings. After planting, cut off all weak and broken branches, and cut off strong shoots by half. Despite their winter hardiness, it is better to cover autumn plantings of blueberries with thick non-woven material or spruce branches. Please note that you should not simply throw covering material on the bushes; you need to make a low support for it (arches, boxes) and lay the covering material on them.
Preparing for autumn planting
Blueberries are considered a rather demanding crop, and several factors influence how the bush grows and bears fruit.
Choosing a landing site
Blueberries like to grow in a sunny place. It is best if this area is protected from the wind. Great importance also has a groundwater level. Despite the fact that in nature blueberries prefer to grow in a swamp, they do not like stagnant water, so you should not plant blueberries in lowlands that are flooded with water in the spring.
Preparation of planting holes
Separate and very great attention You need to pay attention to preparing the planting holes. Blueberries develop well and bear fruit only in acidic soils, with an acidity of 3.5–5 pH, so be sure to test the soil acidity before planting.
Remember that plants such as biting midge and horse sorrel do not indicate acidic soil in the area.
Planting holes are dug large: 40–60 cm in depth and 60–90 cm in diameter. The more space with comfortable soil the roots are given, the better the blueberry bushes will grow and bear fruit.
The planting hole is made at least 60 cm in diameter, and if you need to plant several blueberry bushes, then the distance between them is made from 1 meter to 1.5 meters
If the soil at the bottom of the planting pit is dense and clayey, then it is necessary to provide drainage: expanded clay, broken bricks, large crushed stone.
You can dig not individual planting holes, but a trench or a small corner pit; in this case, there is no need to make them very deep, since the root system of blueberries is superficial.
It is better to isolate the walls of the planting pit (trench) from the external soil by lining them with thick film, linoleum, or border tape.
The planting hole is filled with acidic soil. It is recommended to pour 1 bag of acidic soil into one planting hole, but in this case the plant will look depressed. Each large hole requires 10 to 20 buckets of acidic soil.
To allow the soil to settle, planting holes are prepared 2 weeks before planting the seedlings.
Where to find acidic soil
Of course, sour peat is sold in garden stores, and it is most preferable for planting blueberries. But it will be very expensive. You can replace part of the acidic peat with soil taken from a pine forest, rotted pine litter, or at sawmills where the bark is rotted coniferous trees. When preparing the soil for blueberries, you can add a couple of buckets of sand (if the planting hole is very large).
In order for blueberries planted in the fall to take root well, you need to properly prepare the planting hole and protect the young seedlings from frost and winds for the winter.
Blueberries are still a new (rare) crop in our summer cottages and garden plots. This berry plant is relatively unpretentious in care (although it loves watering) and winters well in harsh conditions, but is very demanding on the soil (it must always be acidic). Therefore, if you want to enjoy delicious and delicious food grown with your own hands, healthy berries, then you first need to properly plant blueberries in your garden.
It is recommended to plant blueberries with an open root system in early spring, before the start of sap flow (before the buds swell). It is best to plant soon after the snow melts, when the ground is still moist and the soil has warmed to about +5 degrees.
Depending on the weather conditions and climatic characteristics of the growing region, the time for planting shrubs begins in March-April and continues until May: in the middle zone (Moscow region) - around April, in the South of Russia - earlier, but in the North-West (Leningrad region), the Urals and in In Siberia, blueberry planting begins no earlier than May.
By the way! If you purchased a seedling in a container, i.e. with a closed root system (ZRS), and this is the form in which blueberries are often sold, then it can be planted in open ground throughout the year, because in this case, the root system will suffer minimal damage. It is perhaps not recommended to do this in the middle of summer, when it is very hot.
Garden blueberries can be planted in a permanent place in both autumn and spring, but spring planting is still preferable.
According to the lunar calendar in 2020
This can help you choose the optimal date for planting seedlings. moon calendar.
So, favorable days for spring planting blueberries in 2020, according to the lunar calendar, are:
- in March - 26-29;
- in April - 11-15, 24, 25;
- in May - 2-10.
Of course, it is not always possible to get to the dacha on favorable days, so the main thing is not to plant blueberries on unfavorable dates according to the lunar calendar - New Moon and Full Moon days, as well as the period when the Moon is in Aquarius, because this is a barren and dry sign - in italics.
Unfavorable days, according to the lunar calendar, for 2020 The dates for planting blueberry seedlings in spring are as follows:
- in March - 9, 19-21 , 24;
- in April - 8, 15-17 , 23;
- in May - 7, 13-14 , 22;
- in June - 5, 9-11 , 21.
According to lunar calendar, from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”
How to plant blueberries in spring: features and step-by-step instructions
If most plants can tolerate improper planting, then its productivity directly depends on whether blueberries were planted correctly. The thing is that a capricious plant develops normally only in an acidic environment, which is recommended to be created, so to speak, with one’s own hands. Let's look at all the nuances of planting in order.
What should a seedling be like?
A high-quality blueberry seedling must meet the following parameters and characteristics:
- As planting material, it is best to use 2- and 3-year-old seedlings that have good annual growth and strong last year’s (or 2-year-old) branches.
- The appearance of the seedling must be healthy: the plant should not have any foci of disease (spots) or mechanical damage.
- For seedlings with a closed root system, the roots should be visible from the drainage holes of the container, or they should be clearly visible when you pull the earth ball out of the container.
Advice! Naturally, it is optimal to purchase varieties adapted to your climatic conditions, in other words, zoned. Only in this case will you be able to obtain stable and excellent harvests.
Video: how to choose blueberry seedlings
Landing location
To plant blueberries, you need to choose an open and well-lit (sunny) place.
The bush cannot be planted in the shade: due to lack of sunlight, the berries will become small and sour.
Blueberries should not be planted in lowlands (especially if the soil becomes soggy in the spring) or in areas where the groundwater level is high.
Advice! If your soil is excessively heavy (clayey), or the only place is in a lowland, or groundwater lies close to the surface, then it is better to plant blueberries on an artificial hill (mound).
Video: why plant blueberries on raised beds
What kind of soil is needed
Blueberries will grow well only in very acidic soils. peat soils(pH 3.5-4.5), preferably loose and light structure, including sandy soils. In other words, the soil must be well permeable to water and enriched with air, i.e. sufficiently aerated.
Therefore, to grow this forest berry bush on summer cottage it is necessary to completely replace the garden soil with a special acidic soil (based on acidic peat and sand).
Of course, a less successful option for planting blueberries (and almost all plants) is heavy (clay) soil. In this case, you will need to add more sand to the soil mixture and be sure to add stronger sand. drainage layer, which means digging a deeper planting hole.
Why blueberries grow well only in acidic soil! The fact is that blueberry roots do not have root hairs, so they develop in close symbiosis (symbiotic relationship) with such a specific type of fungus as ericoid mycorrhiza, which helps the plant absorb nutrients from the soil, and it lives only at low acidity. In other words, it is not the blueberry itself that needs an acidic environment, but the mycorrhiza, which is located on the roots of the blueberry.
At what depth to plant or what should be the planting hole?
To plant blueberries, you need to dig and prepare a planting hole 40-60 centimeters deep and the same width (diameter).
By the way! The average size of a planting hole for blueberries is 50 by 50 cm.
Advice! To fence blueberries off garden soil, It is optimal to build sides around the planting hole (trench) using any durable material (wood, stone, plastic, brick, slate), and lay the bottom of the planting hole with geotextile. Thus, Thanks to artificial insulation, the risk of blueberry roots coming into contact with your garden soil will disappear, and the soil itself will not deoxidize.
Idea! Alternatively, you can use an old 200-liter plastic barrel, after sawing it in half.
For drainage, it is optimal to use the most ordinary logs or large coniferous bark, but in no case limestone or chalk crushed stone (it will, on the contrary, reduce the acidity of the soil).
Important! If you have to plant in excessively clayey soil, then, in addition to the obligatory drainage layer, you also need to dig the deepest possible hole (minimum 50 cm, and better 60-90 cm).
Video: how to properly prepare a planting hole for blueberries
By the way! Blueberries can be planted both in individual planting holes and in trenches (convenient if you want to plant many bushes at once).
How to fill the planting hole: what fertilizers can be added
Advice! To check whether the soil has been prepared to the required acidity, it is imperative to use certain means (litmus papers) or special device(pH meter) to measure acidity, otherwise all your efforts may be in vain.
Alternatively, the soil mixture for planting blueberries may consist of the following components :
- high acidic peat (based on marsh red peat, about 40-60%);
- pine litter (rotted pine corners, about 20-40%);
- yellow sand (approximately 10-30%).
You can also add additional acidic acid to the substrate. mineral fertilizer, like ammonium sulfate, which contains not only nitrogen, but also sulfur (is an excellent acidifier), or simply 50-100 grams of sulfur.
And if you are a “lazy” summer resident who doesn’t want to bother with preparing a special soil mixture, then you can purchase ready-made soil for blueberries. For example:
- « Aeration soil for blueberries and wild berries" from the company "Bona Forte" and the like.
Note! Blueberries do not like any organic matter (compost, humus), it is destructive for it, because... alkalizes the soil. Another thing is pine litter (necessarily rotted) or rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.
Important!
Advice! Or you can even dig up soil from the swampy area where wild blueberries grow.
At what distance to plant
Blueberries do not like crowded spaces, their roots grow in breadth, along the perimeter of the crown, so garden blueberry bushes (tall) are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other, and between rows - 1.5-2 meters.
What should be the right neighborhood, and withwhat can't be planted next to
Due to the fact that blueberries do not tolerate organic fertilizers(manure, humus, compost), it is strictly forbidden to plant it next to plants that are regularly fed with the above-mentioned soil-alkalinizing fertilizers.
For example, raspberries, currants, and gooseberries are completely unsuitable neighbors for blueberries.
It is best to plant blueberries either next to forest berry bushes, i.e. cranberries, lingonberries, or with such blooming shrubby plants, like azaleas, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, in other words, next to heather crops that like acidic soil.
How to prepare a container seedling for planting in open ground
As a rule, if you have a container seedling, it is advised to simply carefully remove it from the container, without disturbing the earthen ball, and plant it in a specially prepared planting hole.
However, before planting a blueberry seedling with a closed root system in a new place, it is recommended to do something with it, or rather with its roots in an earthen coma.
A Be sure to rinse thoroughly with water first, to make it more convenient to manipulate the earthen clod and roots.
- After you take the seedling out of the container, you will definitely notice that its roots seem to be bent into the center of the earthen clod. To successfully root blueberries in open ground, you need move them (roots) to a horizontal position, namely, lightly knead the earthen lump (only the lower 5-7 cm) and spread the roots to the sides.
Note! If this is not done, the roots will remain bent inward. And due to the fact that they are very thin and small, they simply cannot straighten themselves. As a result, after some time, your seedling may die...
- In case you for some reason don't want or are afraid to touch root system seedling, there is an alternative solution: you just need bury the seedling when planting, that is, to plant 5-7 cm deeper than it grew in the container. As a result, after about a year, new roots will appear from the young shoots, which will begin to grow horizontally.
Direct landing
Step-by-step instructions for planting blueberry seedlings in open ground:
- Dig a planting hole and fill it halfway with nutrient soil mixture.
- Make a small mound in the center where you place the seedling so that the roots can be carefully spread along its sides.
By the way! If you decide to plant a container seedling without straightening the roots (but with deepening), then, of course, you need to plant it on a horizontal surface.
Remember! But seedlings with an open root system are always planted on mounds.
- Fill with prepared soil mixture and lightly compact the soil around the bush.
- Water generously (let the moisture absorb, then water again).
- Add more soil if it shrinks after watering.
- Mulch the seedling with acidic mulch (acidic peat, pine litter (needles), bark, rotted pine sawdust or wood chips mixed with sand or hay) in a layer of 3-5 cm.
Note! You can mulch with hay only on quickly drying soils, i.e. on sandy ones. On clayey soils, even loams, this can lead to rotting of blueberry roots.
Fresh sawdust or wood chips greatly extract nitrogen from the soil, so they are not recommended for use as mulch.
Video: planting blueberries from A to Z
Caring for blueberries after spring planting
In order for a blueberry seedling to quickly and well take root in a new place, the first time after planting you need Maintain sufficient humidity at all times, in other words, water regularly.
In the future, the main activities for caring for pigeons in the garden should include the following:
- Regular and plentiful watering. On the hottest summer days, it is recommended to water frequently and by sprinkling.
Advice! It is advisable to water with acidic water.
- Loosening and weeding from weeds. In order for the roots to grow quickly, they need to be provided with an influx fresh air. Aeration can be improved by regular loosening and weeding.
Blueberry roots are close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil no more than 5-6 cm.
- Mulching. Do not forget to periodically update the mulch layer under the bushes.
Mulch will help avoid excessive evaporation of moisture and will slowly acidify the soil, and will also be able to equalize the temperature regime.
- Top dressing and mandatory regular (if necessary) soil acidification(remember that maintaining soil acidity at the proper level is the most important point when caring for blueberries).
Advice! The best organic fertilizer for blueberries this is vermicompost, that is, compost in the creation of which Californian worms took part.
- Rejuvenating and regulating pruning(on adult bushes older than 10-12 years);
If you do not prune in the future, the bush will thicken over time, and the blueberries will simply be crushed and become sour.
Most the right time for pruning blueberries - autumn, after leaf fall, or early spring, before the buds swell.
Video: garden blueberry - planting and care
Possible mistakes when planting blueberries
Having decided to grow garden blueberries (highbush), not everyone has enough time to study all the features of this plant. And even if the information has been studied, in the turmoil of accumulated affairs, novice summer residents often make mistakes. Here are the most popular ones:
- They prepare a nutritious soil mixture without checking its acidity, including adding organic matter (humus).
- Do not fence off the seedling along the outer diameter of the planting hole from the garden soil (this is especially necessary if you have clay soil).
- They forget about drainage (especially on heavy soils).
- Do not mulch the tree trunk circle.
- Bushes are planted too close to each other.
- They forget to acidify the soil by doing acidic watering and fertilizing.
Important! The optimal soil acidity for blueberries is 3.5-4.5 pH, the threshold acidity is 5-5.5 pH, with more alkaline soil the bush gets sick chlorosis- its leaves begin to turn yellow. The thing is that with such acidity, the plant stops receiving nutrition from the roots, because mycorrhiza simply does not work under these conditions.
Thus, planting blueberries is a fairly complex undertaking that takes a lot of time and requires a lot of physical effort, which will pay off in full only if the procedure was carried out in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. Good luck!
Remember! For blueberries to be sweet, the soil underneath must be acidic!
Video: technology for planting and caring for highbush blueberries
In contact with
Blueberries are a high-yielding crop that is characterized by enormous benefits for the human body. In order to collect tasty fruits in the summer, you need to follow the planting recommendations. Consider the optimal time for planting so as not to expose blueberries to the risk of hypothermia. In the article we will look at the features autumn planting the specified culture.
How and when to plant blueberries in the fall: features and step-by-step instructions
Autumn planting takes place in early October. First you need to dig holes, the dimensions of which are 50x60 cm. The distance between the rows is determined depending on the size of the planting material. If you plant low growing bushes, then 60 cm is enough. Planting of medium-sized plants is carried out at a distance of 100 cm between rows. For bushes with a high growth rate, 130 cm will be required.
Optimal planting dates
Planting blueberries with root system open type carried out in early autumn - it is better to start after harvesting, so as not to lose it next season. Optimal timing plantings are selected based on the growing region. It is necessary that the soil cools to +5°C, and then you can start planting the crop.
If we consider the detailed planting dates based on the weather conditions of different areas, the following features are noted:
- V middle lane countries - mid-October;
- southern regions - early November;
- northern part - in mid-September.
Important! If you managed to purchase a plant with a root system closed type, then landing can be done at any time. This feature helps increase the resistance of the root system to drought and frost.
Landing location
Blueberries are planted in well-lit areas. The place should be open, without growing nearby fruit trees and other shrubs. If you plant blueberries in the shade, the berries become smaller and acquire a sour taste. It is prohibited to plant in low-lying areas. In such places it accumulates in spring a large number of water (rain, melted snow), which increases the risk of diseases such as root rot.
The optimal depth of groundwater is 3–4 m.
If there are only lowlands on your site, then you can create an artificial hill: you need to bring in chernozem (about 3 tons) 4–5 months before planting. During this time, it will settle and create a fertile layer for planting blueberries.
What should a plant be like?
The choice of seedling must be approached with special attention. Please note that it must have the following features:
- Age from 2 to 3 years.
- The presence of annual growths and strong branches.
- No signs of disease (stains) or mechanical damage (cracks, breaks).
- If the roots are of a closed type, then parts of them should peek out from the drainage. In the absence of this indicator, there is a risk of premature root rot.
When purchasing, try to choose only those blueberry varieties that are zoned for your region.
Thanks to this feature, you will annually collect healthy and tasty berries. If the selected seedlings are not adapted to the climate of a certain area, then the yield will be low.
The soil
Blueberries are planted in highly acidic soils (within 3–4 pH). Choose soils with a loose and light structure to ensure optimal air exchange and prevent moisture from stagnating near the root system.
Important! The yield of blueberries in acidic soils is much higher. It's all about the absence of hairs on the root system: as a result, development occurs in close symbiosis with ericoid mycorrhiza - this type of fungus develops only in acidic soils and helps the plant absorb useful components from the lower layers of the earth.
The soil for planting must be rich in oxygen. Black soil or sandy soil. Maybe self-cooking soil - for this, garden soil is mixed with peat and sandstone in a ratio of 1: 3: 2. If heavy clay soils predominate in your area, then they are supplemented with a large amount of sandstone (in a ratio of 1:3). You will also need a deep hole for planting, where a bulk layer of the drainage system will be installed.
Planting pit
To plant blueberries, first dig a planting hole: its optimal depth and diameter is 50–65 cm. The average dimensions of the hole are 50x55 cm. However, some farmers believe that the optimal width of the hole is 80–90 cm, since the roots of the plant increase in size during life.
To protect the crop from getting garden soil, build sides around the planting hole. Use dense materials (plastic, wood, brick and slate). Geological textiles are laid on the bottom. Such insulation will prevent the level of acids in the soil from decreasing.
The distance between rows is 1.5–2 m.
A dense layer of drainage (sawdust or pine needles) is placed at the bottom of the planting hole.. Its height should be 20–30 cm. It is not recommended to use chalk or other types of crushed stone, as they will reduce the acidity of the soil.
Fertilizers
Before planting blueberries, nutrients are added to the hole to help the plant develop and increase productivity.
Important! Rotted pine branches cannot be used in the mulching process. This is due to the fact that they lower the level of nitrogen in the soil.
A week before planting, a complex consisting of the following fertilizers is added to the planting hole:
- peat (40–50%);
- coniferous branches that have rotted (20–30%);
- yellow sand (10–20%).
If you do not have the opportunity to independently prepare substrates consisting of organic substances, you can use a complex mixture. The most popular option is Blueberry Aeration Mix. The fertilizer is produced by the agricultural company " Bona Forte».
Organic substances cannot be used to feed blueberries. This is due to the fact that compost and humus increase the alkaline balance of the soil.
Planting process
Since blueberries are not fed with organic matter, this crop cannot be planted next to plants that require humus and compost. The most unfavorable neighbors for shrubs with blue berries are raspberries, gooseberries and red currants. It is recommended to plant blueberries near and.
Step by step procedure landings:
- Dig a planting hole and add a nutrient mixture to the bottom (the height of the fertilizer layer should be 20–30 cm).
- Place the planting material vertically and straighten its roots.
- Sprinkle the seedling with fertile soil (upper layers) and compact it a little at the roots.
- Water the bush with 15 liters of warm water (from +24°C to +30°C).
- If the soil settles a little, you need to top it up.
- Lay out a layer of mulch consisting of peat, pine needles, bark and sand. The height of the embankment should be 5–10 cm.
Growing blueberries on sandy soils involves adding hay to the mulch.. On loamy and clay soils the use of plant substances is prohibited, as they can lead to rotting of the root system (poor exchange of air and moisture).
Caring for blueberries after autumn planting
When caring for blueberries, it is necessary to provide them with an optimal level of humidity. For this reason, watering is carried out at a certain interval. Don't forget to feed the bushes to speed up their development. The health of the bush depends on the quality of pruning: if dry and diseased parts of the plant are not trimmed in time, it will soon die.
Did you know? The state of Maine, USA, is considered the largest supplier of blueberries to the world market.
Top dressing
Before you start fertilizing, you need to dig a small hole around the bush. Its depth should be 10–20 cm. It is into this that liquid substances are poured or granules of microelements are laid out. All nutrients are added only 2–3 days after watering. Moisture should be absorbed into the soil to a depth of 5–8 cm - this way fertilizers will better penetrate the root system.
- First time Fertilizers are applied a week before the expected cold snap. Place 3 tbsp under the bush. l. superphosphate, which is considered a reliable protector of roots from frost.
- Second feeding carried out during the period of kidney swelling. At this moment, nitrogen components are used, which contribute to the bush’s resistance to frost and ensure the timely development of the plant. It is best to use ammonium sulfate (50 g per 10 liters of water). The entire volume of fertilizer is poured under 1 bush. You can also feed plants with nitrogen. 16 g of this substance is added to the root of each bush.
- Third feeding carried out after the plant blooms, when the ovaries begin to form. During this period, it is advisable to use potassium and magnesium (100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). At least 20 liters of solution is poured under each bush in order to improve the quality and sugar content of the berries.
Watering
On hot days, irrigation is carried out using the sprinkling method: you need to use a hose with a sprayer at the end.
Trimming
Young bushes pruned annually, removing all dry and disease-affected branches. If after winter you notice that spots or cracks have appeared on the plant, it means that it was damaged by frost. It is necessary to remove frozen parts of the bush to the very base so that there is no chance for the development of diseases.
Mature shrubs, which are more than 10 years old, must undergo anti-aging pruning, therefore, once every 10 years, all adult shoots are shortened so that their final height is 10–15 cm.
Reproduction
In order not to buy seedlings in nurseries, there are several methods for propagating blueberries at home:
- By layering.
- Partial bushes.
Did you know?During the Great Patriotic War, soldiers consumed blueberry jam. This helped them improve their vision at night.
If you decide to propagate the plant by layering, then you need to start the procedure in early spring. First, the young shoots are laid on the ground and sprinkled sawdust. After 1.5–2 years, roots will form on them, after which they are separated from the mother bush and transplanted to a permanent place.
The second method is carried out using young plants, which emerge from the buds of underground rhizome shoots. They are usually connected to the mother bush by roots. The farmer must identify young plants that are characterized by the presence of their own rhizome. They need to be dug up, the root system separated from the mother system and transplanted to a permanent place.
Diseases and pests of blueberries
Blueberry bushes are often affected by diseases such as blossom rot, moniliosis, phomopsis, anthracnose and red spot. All these diseases can be divided into viral and fungal. They appear, in most cases, from poor quality care of shrubs.
The basic procedure for disease prevention includes the following measures:
- regularly care for plants (watering, weeding, removing weeds);
- in spring, water the bushes with boiling water (temperature from +80°C to +90°C);
- Spray the plants at the end of March copper sulfate(10 g per 20 liters of water).
Symptoms of flower rot include drying out shoots and yellowing foliage. Over time, ulcers appear on the branches, which lead to the death of the plant. In the fight against the disease they use " Euparen"(100 g per 5 liters of water).
Signs of Phomopsis appear in brown spots (1–1.5 cm in diameter) on the leaves. For treatment, spray with a solution of “Fundazol” (50 g per 4 liters of water) or “ Toxin"(50 g per 3 liters of water). Moniliosis manifests itself in the yellowness of the top of the bush and brown spots on the leaves and berries. A solution is used against this disease " Karbofos"(100 g per 5 liters of water).
Symptoms of anthracnose include orange dots on the berries. The fight against the disease consists of treating the bushes " Fufanon"(20 g per 5 liters of water). Signs of red spotting include crimson and light brown spots on leaf plate. Treatment is carried out Bordeaux mixture(30 g per 4 liters of water). Spraying is carried out once a month until the signs are completely eliminated.
- A solution is used against aphids " Oxychoma"(30 g per 3 liters of water).
- In the fight against Khrushchev they use “ I endured"(2 ampoules per 5 liters of water).
- Eliminating the leaf roller involves treating “ Coming soon"(40 g per 5 liters of water).
- Spraying « Tridex"(100 g per 4 liters of water) help fight the flower beetle.
All treatments are carried out at intervals of 21 days.
So, now you know how to plant blueberries in the fall. The process of planting a crop is simple and therefore does not require much time from the gardener. After immersing the seedling in the soil, do not forget to properly care for it - not only the harvest, but also the health of the entire shrub depends on this.
