Rust on apple trees - causes of the disease and methods of elimination. Serious reasons why the leaves of an apple tree rust Why are there rusty spots on the trunk of an apple tree

Have you noticed orange-yellow spots on the leaves of your apple tree? A healthy tree's leaves do not change color or shape. Lesions are a symptom of a plant disease or attack by pests. Rust stains may indicate a fungal infection fruit tree, especially since apple and pear trees are the most vulnerable types of garden plants. How dangerous is the disease, what consequences can it lead to? Why does it affect apple trees and is there a risk of affecting others? garden crops? Let's figure it out.

Rust on apple leaves

Apple tree rust is an infectious disease caused by the fungus Gumnosporandium tremelloides. Typically, the first symptoms of the disease appear in mid-summer: small protrusions appear on the leaves and quickly grow over the entire surface. Soon stripes or round spots of brown color appear on the outer part of the leaves.

Black spots are visible on the spots - they appear in places under which there is an accumulation of spores.

Periodically, this nursery opens up and releases a new batch of pests onto the plant. Multiple yellow-brown spots occupy 2/3 of the leaf surface; the tree quickly sheds the affected leaves and already in August - September its branches become bare.

What is the danger of rust?

Rust most often affects the leaves, but the fungus can spread to the branches, bark and fruits of the plant. Young shoots are at risk - some of them die, and those that develop will not produce healthy growth and fruit in the future. The development of shoots can last up to 3 years, but then the bark in the affected areas and on the trunk begins to crack. Apples do not ripen - at some stage (for each plant individually) they slow down their growth and fall off.

A sick apple tree does not receive what it needs for normal height nutrition, as a result of which photosynthesis and metabolic processes slow down, the plant does not have enough moisture. As a result, gardeners receive a poor-quality harvest - the fruits are small, they lack the usual juiciness, and the core is often rotten.

Causes of the disease

The most vulnerable is an apple tree that grows in the same area as a juniper, because this plant is the causative agent of rust. During the cold season, fungal spores accumulate and overwinter in juniper needles - they can remain in a preserved state for several years. With the onset of warmth, the active development phase of the spores begins - they settle on the leaves of apple trees and infect the plants.

Rust is a common disease in southern and coastal regions. In humid climates, spores develop faster, and strong winds carry them over a distance of 40-50 km, affecting fruit trees within this perimeter.

How to fight rust?

Yellow-brown spots must be treated so as not to harm the tree:

  1. If the cause of the damage is juniper, it is advisable to remove it from the garden and dig deep into the soil in the place where it grew.
  2. Branches and leaves with stains will have to be removed. They need to be cut 10 centimeters below the affected area.
  3. After removing the diseased areas, the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other meld-containing solutions. The apple tree is sprayed three times, every two weeks.
  4. A common mistake gardeners make is that they begin to treat the tree at the end of summer, when the apple tree has already dropped its leaves. Such measures will not have any effect.

The best time for treatment is early spring, before the buds bloom. First you need to clean the wounds on the shoots (cut as described above) and disinfect the sections with a solution of copper sulfate. After this, you can spray the tree:

  • spraying - in the “green cone” phase;
  • spraying - in the “bud” phase;
  • spraying - after flowering of the tree.

How not to cause harm?

It is impossible to treat spots and other lesions on leaves with Bordeaux mixture in the heat. At high temperature In the air, the toxic chemical begins to actively evaporate, its concentration on the leaves of the fruit tree increases several times. The apple tree can get burned, and the gardener can get poisoned by toxic fumes. Breeders recommend spraying plants in the morning or evening, when it is cool outside.

Treating plants in wet weather will not give a positive result, because the solution will drain from the foliage along with dew drops.

Spraying is carried out when the apple tree is dry. At least 6 hours must pass after the rain. There will be no positive effect from treating a fruit tree at temperatures below +5 degrees, and the apple tree may get burned.

The same thing will happen if you spray the plant in the heat or immediately after rain. Such climatic conditions copper sulfate included in the composition Bordeaux mixture and similar drugs are excreted in excess. It causes burns of leaves, shoots, and trunk.

Don't want any extra problems? Then don't drop off coniferous trees in the same area with fruit trees. And if you take a risk, choose varieties of apple trees with strong immunity to scab and fungal infections, surround the plants with other varieties of fruit trees and properly care for the garden.

The dream of many summer residents. Everyone wants to taste their own fruit straight from the branch. But while you are growing apple trees, you are faced with a large number of problems that appear in the fruits and on the leaves of apple trees. Rust is one of the most common diseases of favorite fruits. Let's look at why it occurs and how to deal with it.

brief information

Rust is a fungal disease that manifests itself on leaves, branches and on the apples themselves. Don't ignore the problem. After all, if treatment is not organized in time, the tree will gradually wither. After spending visual inspection, you can easily determine whether your apple trees have such a disease or not. If the result is positive, do not despair. The rust that appears on the leaves of apple trees will pass, but you should immediately take active action.

Symptoms

Typically, the disease manifests itself in spring period. The spots may be bright orange or red. Juniper, which may be in close proximity to apple trees, will become favorable place for the development and further wintering of the fungal disease. Therefore, when planting young trees, you should carefully select your neighbors. Such a disease can spread through the air over many distances without losing its activity. If the leaves of an apple tree are covered with rust, then this could happen due to two carriers:

  • wind;
  • insects.

Today, there are several dozen varieties of rust. It does not spare any cereals, ornamental or vegetable crops. If you find a fungal infection in your garden, you should immediately begin treating your fruit trees.

Struggle

  1. We dig up juniper. If the priority is orchard, then completely rid it of the presence of this bush. Otherwise, sooner or later the infection will begin to develop. The place needs to be dug to a greater depth and treated with boiling water.
  2. Fence Apple orchard safer plants that will protect against diseases.
  3. It is recommended to remove infected leaves, fruits, branches and young shoots from apple trees. Pruning is carried out at a distance of at least 10 - 15 cm from the infected area.
  4. Be sure to spray the tree. For this, a wide range of products is offered, for example: Bordeaux mixture with a concentration of no more than 1%, zineb solution or Topaz. Spraying must be done two more times every two weeks.

The given algorithm of actions will help you if rust appears on the leaves of apple trees. Experienced gardeners It is not recommended to wait for the disease to develop. They advise carrying out preventative measures that will definitely protect your fruit.

Precautionary measures

Those considered and the fight against them should give you the idea that it is better to be a prudent summer resident and try to get ahead of the disease. You can do this as follows:

  1. Set your priorities. What is most important to you: a healthy apple orchard or the beauty of coniferous trees that are carriers of fungal infections? They cannot exist together in the same area.
  2. Start each new season by treating apple trees. It is done in the spring. Remove all bad branches and bark. Treat these places with a solution of copper sulfate and seal all the cuts with garden pitch.
  3. Spray with antimicrobial agents. This should be done before and after the first young leaves appear. Repeat the procedure three times until the fruit appears.

The above methods will help you not to wait for infection, but to prevent it in the early stages of development. Now you know that diseases of apple trees and spots on them do not entail anything good. And all the time you spent growing orchard, may be wasted.

Finally

Now you know that not only metal can rust, but also, oddly enough, our apple trees. Trees are subject to such “corrosion” more and more often, and it’s all to blame for our inattention and untimely treatment. We told you what to do if rust appears on the leaves of apple trees. You know how to properly treat trees. Now you are familiar with many apple tree diseases, and the fight against them will be easy and fruitful.

Have you noticed orange-yellow spots on the leaves of your apple tree? A healthy tree's leaves do not change color or shape. Lesions are a symptom of a plant disease or attack by pests. Rusty spots may indicate fungal infection of a fruit tree, especially since apple and pear trees are the most vulnerable types of garden plants. How dangerous is the disease, what consequences can it lead to? Why does it affect apple trees and is there a risk of affecting other garden crops? Let's figure it out.

Rust on the leaves indicates the appearance of a disease

Rust on apple leaves

Apple tree rust is an infectious disease caused by the fungus Gumnosporandium tremelloides. Typically, the first symptoms of the disease appear in mid-summer: small protrusions appear on the leaves and quickly grow over the entire surface. Soon stripes or round spots of brown color appear on the outer part of the leaves.

Black spots are visible on the spots - they appear in places under which there is an accumulation of spores.

Periodically, this nursery opens up and releases a new batch of pests onto the plant. Multiple yellow-brown spots occupy 2/3 of the leaf surface; the tree quickly sheds the affected leaves and already in August - September its branches become bare.

What is the danger of rust?

Rust most often affects the leaves, but the fungus can spread to the branches, bark and fruits of the plant. Young shoots are at risk - some of them die, and those that develop will not produce healthy growth and fruit in the future. The development of shoots can last up to 3 years, but then the bark in the affected areas and on the trunk begins to crack. Apples do not ripen - at some stage (for each plant individually) they slow down their growth and fall off.

Rust weakens the tree, resulting in a poor-quality harvest.

A sick apple tree does not receive the nutrition necessary for normal growth, as a result of which photosynthesis and metabolic processes slow down and the plant does not have enough moisture. As a result, gardeners receive a poor-quality harvest - the fruits are small, they lack the usual juiciness, and the core is often rotten.

Causes of the disease

The most vulnerable is an apple tree that grows in the same area as a juniper, because this plant is the causative agent of rust. During the cold season, fungal spores accumulate and overwinter in juniper needles - they can remain in a preserved state for several years. With the onset of warmth, the active development phase of the spores begins - they settle on the leaves of apple trees and infect the plants.

Rust is a common disease in southern and coastal regions. In humid climates, spores develop faster, and strong winds carry them over a distance of 40-50 km, affecting fruit trees within this perimeter.

How to fight rust?

Yellow-brown spots must be treated so as not to harm the tree:

To remove rust, you need to remove juniper from the garden.

  1. If the cause of the damage is juniper, it is advisable to remove it from the garden and dig deep into the soil in the place where it grew.
  2. Branches and leaves with stains will have to be removed. They need to be cut 10 centimeters below the affected area.
  3. After removing the diseased areas, the plant is treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other meld-containing solutions. The apple tree is sprayed three times, every two weeks.
  4. A common mistake gardeners make is that they begin to treat the tree at the end of summer, when the apple tree has already dropped its leaves. Such measures will not have any effect.

Rust treatment in early spring has the greatest efficiency

The best time for treatment is early spring, before the buds bloom. First you need to clean the wounds on the shoots (cut as described above) and disinfect the sections with a solution of copper sulfate. After this, you can spray the tree:

  • spraying - in the “green cone” phase;
  • spraying - in the “bud” phase;
  • spraying - after flowering of the tree.

How not to cause harm?

It is impossible to treat spots and other lesions on leaves with Bordeaux mixture in the heat. At high air temperatures, the toxic chemical begins to actively evaporate, its concentration on the leaves of the fruit tree increases several times. The apple tree can get burned, and the gardener can get poisoned by toxic fumes. Breeders recommend spraying plants in the morning or evening, when it is cool outside.

Treating plants in wet weather will not give a positive result, because the solution will drain from the foliage along with dew drops.

Spraying is carried out when the apple tree is dry. At least 6 hours must pass after the rain. There will be no positive effect from treating a fruit tree at temperatures below +5 degrees, and the apple tree may get burned.

The same thing will happen if you spray the plant in the heat or immediately after rain. In such climatic conditions, copper sulfate, which is part of the Bordeaux mixture and similar preparations, is released in excess. It causes burns of leaves, shoots, and trunk.

Don't want any extra problems? Then do not plant coniferous trees in the same area as fruit trees. And if you take a risk, choose varieties of apple trees with strong immunity to scab and fungal infections, surround the plants with other varieties of fruit trees and properly care for the garden.


Apple tree rust is a dangerous disease caused by a fungus. A cunning and sophisticated pathogen is Gumnosporandium tremelloides, genus Phragmidium. Leaves under its influence become incapable of photosynthesis. Disturbed water and mineral metabolism lead to a sharp decrease in yield. The plant is progressively withering. Young promising shoots suffer. They will no longer bear fruit, and the most infected will die. If you do not take action and treat the tree, the prognosis will be unfavorable. The apple tree will die in the coming years. During which, the disease will persistently progress. There can be no talk of any harvest.

What to do in the midst of illness?

Typically, the first symptoms appear in the summer during the period of active and stormy growing season. Round spots appear on the leaves - brown or rusty. As soon as you notice them, you need to urgently get down to business. All infected parts are completely removed:

  • leaves;
  • shoots;
  • branches;
  • ovaries;
  • unripe apples.

Pruning should be done 10 cm below the damage site. The pruning shears must be disinfected several times with a strong antiseptic solution.

Everything that you cut and torn off needs to be burned quickly or taken away from the garden.

Now is the time to treat the apple trees with fungicidal solutions. The choice of chemicals is quite wide. The most popular antifungal agents are:

  • "Topaz";
  • "Kuproksat";
  • "Vectra";
  • 0.4% "Zineba";
  • 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Spraying is carried out three times. The first time on the day of pruning, the second and third time every 10 days.

What anti-rust medications are there?

The huge selection of fungus control products presented in agricultural stores is divided into the following main groups. These are the following groups of drugs:

  1. copper-containing;
  2. having sulfur as a base;
  3. systemic fungicides;
  4. biological products.


Systemic fungicides

For treating rust, fungicides are the number one remedy. It is with them that you need to start treating the disease at its peak. Especially if you want to hit the bull's eye. The most top scores in this fight they bring contact and systemic-contact drugs. These primarily include:

  • "Strobe";
  • "Topaz";
  • "Vectra";
  • "Zineba";
  • “Polishing.”

All drugs work approximately the same. They destroy fungal colonies. At the same time, they infect spores, from which, after exposure, fungi will never appear. They can be easily alternated, which makes it possible to avoid addiction. Since rust fungi have an excellent ability to adapt to chemicals. To do this, they wait out the adverse effects in the form of spores. And then they attack with even greater activity. Systemic fungicides are universal preparations that allow correct use cure trees from rust infection once and for all.

What dosages should be diluted in 1 bucket of water:

  • Strobe -2g;
  • Topaz-2 ml;
  • Vectra -2g;
  • Polisher -2g.

For all of the above remedies, the rule of two applies. This way you can never go wrong when preparing a solution against pathogens. Only Zineba needs 40g.

If at the time of fighting rust, you managed to spray the apple trees, for example, against scab, then there is no need to carry out additional spraying. This will be enough to act on two types of pathogens at the same time.

Topaz

The drug has a powerful antifungal effect. It is produced in liquid and powder form. The consumption for an apple tree is 2 liters per 10m2. Treatment can be carried out several times, after waiting 2 weeks.

Strobe

An excellent drug with beneficial benefits. It can be used even during flowering. It is safe for bees. Spraying can be carried out in wet weather and when low temperatures. Highly effective in combating many fungi, especially rust.

Vectra

A good powerful drug for treatment. Active substance Bromuconazole A young apple tree requires up to 2 liters. An adult fruiting tree needs 10-15 liters. The maximum frequency of spraying is no more than 3 times. Do not mix with other products.

Copper-containing drugs

Spraying with Bordeaux mixture is one of the most known methods fight against rust fungus. Use a 1% working solution. The first treatment begins when the temperature in the garden approaches positive values. It is forbidden to spray in hot weather when the temperature is high. If you neglect this rule, you will severely burn the trees. What else is suggested to be used to treat fungus?

Blue Bordeaux

An alternative option for replacing Bordeaux mixture. Available in the form of convenient granules. Quickly and completely dissolves in water. Can be used even in bad weather. The drug copes not only with colonies of pathogens, but also destroys spores. Refers to contact means.

Abiga Peak

The drug contains copper as the main substance. From the group of contact antifungal agents. Has a special adhesive. Apply superficially. Does not penetrate inside the bark, acting in the upper layers. Important - use only in dry weather. 50 g of the product are diluted in a bucket of water.

Cuproxat

Contains nitrogen and copper acetate. At a concentration of 0.25%, it effectively neutralizes all spores of rust fungus. Can be used for root watering. At the same time, it combines the features of a powerful antifungal substance and a beneficial mineral.

Champion

Effective both for the prevention and treatment of rust. It forms a protective layer on the leaves, preventing infection and spread of the fungus throughout the tree. Fights fungus, creates negative conditions for its existence. But it doesn't completely kill. 60 g are diluted in a bucket. Do not use in hot weather.

Sulfur-containing drugs

Colloidal sulfur

Gardeners recommend a solution of colloidal sulfur as one of the best means against rust. To prepare it, take 5 liters of liquid and 40g of sulfur powder. Effective upon direct contact. When apple trees are in bloom, spraying cannot be done.

Cumulus

A worthy chemical based on sulfur. Available in a convenient form. It has fast and good solubility in liquid. Doesn't get dusty.

Proven regimens, drug combinations

Experienced gardeners recommend using ready-made diagrams rust treatment. Their use requires precise and correct execution. The first thing that is important to remember is that all tree treatments are carried out before and after flowering. This is done so as not to destroy the beneficial insects that pollinate apple trees during flowering. Take care of your helpers, do not harm them. These are bees ladybugs, bumblebees, ground beetles.

  1. The first treatment before bud break is carried out with 1% copper sulfate. The second - copper oxychloride, as an option - ordan or oxychome. The third - back with Bordeaux mixture or “Kuprosil”. Many recommend repeating blue spraying again after 10 days.
  2. “Topaz” is sprayed only 3 times. But this is quite enough to no longer have problems with rust.
  3. The first and second spraying is “Champion”, “Kuprosil” or Bordeaux mixture. For the third, take “Tiovit” or colloidal sulfur. For the fourth, a universal fungicide or “Propi Plus”.


Protecting apple trees from rust with biological products, why is it beneficial to use them?

To grow environmentally friendly apples, you can try to defeat the enemy using biological means. They are absolutely non-toxic and do not accumulate anywhere. The effect after spraying lasts 3 weeks. Processing can be carried out as much as you like, right up to apple picking. The only conditions that must be met:

  1. Carry out treatment only at a certain temperature (12-18 degrees).
  2. Correctly follow the proportions indicated on the packages.

Basic biological products, methods of their use

Biological products increase the immunity of trees, making them more resistant to fungal pathogens. Their use does not cause any harmful effects. They are absolutely safe for:

  • person;
  • plants;
  • insects;
  • animals.

By using biological products, you get 100% natural organic apples that you can safely eat yourself and give to children.

Planriz

An effective remedy for the fungus that causes brown rust. Preparation method: 50 ml per 10 liters of liquid. In addition to the antifungal effect, it causes strong growth of young shoots.

Trichodermin

One of the most widely used fungicides. Has a wide spectrum of action. Rust is one of the indications for use. It is prepared as follows: 100 ml of working solution is diluted in 10 liters of water. The first treatment begins immediately after the buds open. Continues throughout the season. Frequency - 2 times a month. During the flowering period, treatment is not carried out.

Fitosporin-M

An effective drug with a huge amount positive feedback. Apple trees are treated throughout the growing season. 15 ml are diluted in 10 liters of liquid. Not only trees are processed, but also fruits stored for storage.

Phytodoctor

Successfully fights pathogenic fungi. The effect is not inferior to Planriz. Method of preparation: 30g of Phytodoctor per 10 liters of water. Apple trees are treated every 2 weeks throughout the growing season. The starting point is the time of bud break. Finish before harvest.

Tank mixtures

Once you understand the action of biological products, you can combine them at your discretion. Tank mixtures - effective method fight against rust. To prepare them, mix in 10 liters of water:

  • Planriz - 50ml;
  • Ecoberine -50ml;
  • Trichodermin -100 ml;
  • Gaupsin -100ml;
  • Phytodoctor -30g.

In case of rust damage, treatment is carried out 2-3 times a month. From the moment the buds open until the harvest.

Be careful juniper, why is the shrub dangerous for the apple tree?

When planning an orchard at the planting stage, it is important to consider helpful advice. Never plant juniper bushes next to apple trees. If the garden has already been laid a long time ago, and you discover such a combination, immediately take up the shovel. Replant the bushes somewhere further away, preferably to a park or small forest. You can simply get rid of them if your plot is no more than 10 acres.

The juniper tree is not a comrade, not a friend, but a very dangerous roommate. It is in it that pathogens of the disease appear, multiply and persist. Spores are carried by the wind to apple trees, causing a dangerous infectious process. Insects actively flying around the garden also contribute to infection. The spores comfortably overwinter in the needles, and in the spring they begin new attacks on the trees. If this process is not interrupted, you may soon be left not only without apples, but also without all the trees. Since, having eaten and played enough in the leaves, the pathogen moves to the trunk, branches, and fruits. First year shoots are especially sensitive to it.

Decorating dachas with conifers is fraught with the spread of disease in the form of an epidemic. If you are hesitant to get rid of your favorite spruce or pine tree, inspect it for infection. Colonies of the pathogen attach to twigs coniferous plants characteristic brown-rusty color.

There is a way out in this case too. Armed with a file and pruning shears, prune conifers. Dig the soil deeply or pour boiling water over it. Treatment with fungicides brings good results. Therefore, spray your coniferous pets every spring. And at the same time, do not forget to thoroughly cultivate the soil layer underneath them.

Remember that if you regularly care for juniper and Christmas trees, it is possible to stop the spread of the pathogen. With perseverance and perseverance, you will preserve not only apple trees, but also evergreen fuzzies.

In addition, there is evidence that even the complete destruction of juniper bushes will not save you from rust. Spores can travel enormous distances - 50 km or more. At strong wind even more. That's why the best way out– be a caring owner and devote time to caring for Christmas trees.

Rust fungi are terribly afraid of wormwood. Therefore, bitter plants are absolutely safe to use. But with high efficiency. Wormwood decoction is used to combat pathogenic fungi. At the same time, do not forget to burn diseased leaves every autumn.

To defeat rust once and for all, use only proven effective fungicides. A one-time treatment may not be enough. Therefore, be patient and carry out treatment in several approaches. Don't put off spraying for too long. The sooner you take action, the less fungi will have time to multiply and take over healthy areas on the tree. If nothing is done, the apple trees may die.

Apple trees are often damaged various diseases. All pathologies have characteristic symptoms, by which you can quickly identify the disease and take the necessary measures to save the plants. Let's look at the main diseases of apple trees and methods of treating them.

Apple trees can get sick for many reasons. It may be unfavorable weather, neglect of the rules of agricultural technology, nutrient deficiency and many others. Any disease negatively affects the yield and can cause the death of the tree.

Signs of damage depend on the pathogen.

Pathologies are divided into 3 groups:

1. Fungal (mycoses):

  • fruit rot (moniliosis);
  • powdery mildew;
  • scab;
  • rust;
  • brown spot (phyllostictosis);
  • black cancer;

2. Bacterial:

  • bacterial burn;
  • bacterial root cancer;

3. Viral:

  • star-shaped cracking of fruits;
  • paniculation (proliferation);
  • rosetteness (small leaves).

The sooner you start treating the apple tree, the greater the chance of saving the harvest and the plant itself.

Fungal diseases

Fruit rot (moniliosis)

Description of symptoms: small brown spots appear on ripening fruits (pictured above). Later they grow and the apples become inedible. The disease spreads very quickly, covering the entire crop. It is almost impossible to detect in the initial stages.

Treatment of fruit rot in the active stage is not possible. It is necessary to carry out prevention, which gives excellent results. In early spring, treat the trees with 3% Bordeaux mixture; you can use fungicides (for example, Horus). The second treatment should be carried out before flowering, using Bordeaux mixture (1%).

After harvesting, repeat spraying the trees with a solution of copper sulfate (0.1 kg per 10 liters of water). Each plant will require 3 liters of solution. Collect mummified apples, you need to get rid of them.

Powdery mildew

The pathogen affects the bark, buds, shoots, and leaves. The main symptom is an off-white coating, which later turns brown. The leaves turn yellow, dry out, and fall off. The apple tree stops producing new shoots and does not bear fruit.

Therapeutic and preventive measures against powdery mildew start in the spring.

2 treatments will be required:

  1. Before flowering, spray the apple trees with a solution of fungicides (Skor, Topaz) at the rate of 2 ml per 10 liters of water.
  2. After flowering, treat the plants with a solution of copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 l of water) or with Hom in the same concentration (40 g per 10 l of water).

In autumn, a 3rd treatment is required. Spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture (1%). You can try to treat the plant with a solution containing: 20 g liquid soap, 50 g of copper sulfate, 10 liters of water.

Scab

The main symptom is the appearance of an olive-brown coating on the leaves of the apple tree, they begin to crumble. Subsequently, cracks and dark gray spots form on the fruits.

Treatment consists of spraying plants with biofungicides (Fitosporin-M, Fitolavin, Gamair, Horus, etc.). Carry out the first treatment before the buds open; throughout the entire season you need to perform 2-4 sprayings with an interval of 2 weeks.

A method of treating scab is spraying with Bordeaux mixture. For the first treatment (before buds open), a 3% solution is required; later (after the leaves appear) use a 1% solution. Spray at intervals of 2 weeks. Up to 7 treatments will be required per season.

Spraying with mineral fertilizers has a good effect.

For treatment purposes, the following solutions can be used in the following concentrations:

  • potassium salt - 15%;
  • ammonium nitrate - 10%;
  • potassium nitrate - 15%;
  • ammonium sulfate - 10%.

If fertilizers are used to prevent the spread of fungus, reduce the concentration of the solutions.

Carry out additional work:

  • trim dry branches;
  • strip the affected bark to healthy wood;
  • whiten the treated areas.

Rust

Symptoms: the appearance of stripes and brown spots on the leaves, on which black inclusions (accumulation of spores) are visible. In the future, the fungus spreads to branches, bark, and fruits. Some of the young shoots die off. The bark in the affected areas cracks, unripe fruits fall off.

Treatment should begin in early spring, before buds open.

How to treat:

  1. Remove affected leaves and branches, cut them 10 cm below the diseased areas.
  2. Disinfect the sections with a solution of copper sulfate (5%).
  3. Treat the trees with Bordeaux mixture (1%). Spray 3 times at 3 week intervals.

If juniper grows in the garden, it needs to be removed and the area needs to be dug up. The plant is a source of rust infection.

Brown spot (phyllostictosis)

Symptoms: the appearance on the leaves of small brown spots with a dark brown rim. In the center there are black dots (fungal spores). The spots can cover the entire surface of the leaves.

Start treatment at autumn period. Procedure:

  1. Destroy fallen leaves.
  2. Dig up the tree trunk circles.
  3. Trim the thickened crown; this should be done annually.
  4. In the fall, spray the trees with a urea solution (5%), treat the soil with the same preparation, but at a concentration of 7%.

What to do in spring:

  1. Spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture (3-4%) before flowering. After the buds have formed, treat only with a 1% solution.
  2. Perform a second spray after flowering is complete.

In the future, 1 more treatment will be required (no later than 20 days before harvesting).

Cytosporosis

Signs of damage: the appearance of ulcers on the bark dark color. In the future, they penetrate the trunk, increase in size and become brown-red. The bark and branches gradually die off.

Treatment is as follows: in the spring it is necessary to treat the tree 3 times:

  • during the period of bud swelling (Hom fungicide - 40 g per 10 liters of water);
  • before flowering (copper sulfate solution - 50 g per 10 liters of water);
  • after the end of flowering (Hom - 40 g of substance per 10 liters of water).

In late autumn, trim off the affected branches and burn them. Clean the wounds with a sterile instrument. Up to 2 cm of healthy tissue needs to be removed.

Disinfect the sections with copper sulfate (3%), cover garden mortar. Treat tree trunks with lime, feed apple trees with mineral fertilizers (phosphorus or potassium).

Black cancer

Signs of damage: the appearance of black spots on the leaves, the formation of black rot on the fruits. In addition, the bark begins to darken, multiple cracks appear on its surface, and it begins to turn in the opposite direction.

Start treatment in the spring, before the temperature environment will rise to 15 °C and above. Using sharp knife, remove the affected areas (down to the wood), capturing healthy bark (1.5-2 cm). They need to be burned.

Disinfect the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate (1-2%) and cover with garden varnish. After the trees bloom, spray with Bordeaux mixture (1%). Black cancer may reappear within a year or two. In this case, it is better to cut down the diseased trunk or the entire tree and burn it.

milky shine

The disease affects the bark of the apple tree. The first symptoms of the disease can be seen on the leaves. They turn yellow and white-silver stripes appear on them. Then the leaves fall off. Subsequently, dark spots form on the bark.

Methods of control: remove the affected areas of the tree bark, treat the cuts with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and garden pitch. It is recommended to spray the tree with Bordeaux mixture (1%). Carry out 2 treatments in the spring - before and after flowering. Timely spraying with fertilizers has a good effect.

Bacterial diseases

Bacterial burn (bacteriosis)

Main signs: the appearance of black spots all over the apple tree. The leaves begin to darken and curl, but they remain on the branches. The flowers turn dark brown and fall off. The fruits acquire a dark shade and do not ripen.

Treatment measures include:

Main symptoms: the appearance of growths on the roots (main, lateral), root collar. At first the formations are small and soft, then they increase in size and harden. In autumn, the growths rot and collapse. At the same time, it is released into the soil a large number of bacteria.

Bacterial root canker is introduced into the garden only with seedlings; the disease cannot be treated.

Prevention measures include:

  1. Careful selection of seedlings (no growths on the central root, root collar).
  2. Trimming lateral roots with growths.
  3. Disinfection of the root system after pruning in a solution of copper sulfate (1%) for 5 minutes, followed by rinsing in clean water.

It is necessary to add phosphorus and potassium to the soil mineral fertilizers. You cannot use only nitrogen. From organic fertilizers It's better to take manure.

Bacterial necrosis

All parts of trees are affected (from bark to fruits). The flowers turn brown, then black, and fall off. Spots appear on fruits and leaves. The edges of the leaves become necrotic, sheet plate wraps itself along the main vein and dries up. Spots appear on the shoots, which then cover the entire young shoot.

A necrotic spot forms on the branches and trunk of the tree, which subsequently increases in size. Oily spots appear, from which liquid oozes. The cambium, the inner layer of bark, swells, turns yellow-orange, and peels off from the wood.

Treatment consists of the following activities:

  1. Trim the affected branches, including 2-3 cm of healthy tissue, and burn them.
  2. Disinfect the sections with carbolic acid (5%) or copper sulfate (1%).
  3. Cover the cuts with oil paint or garden putty.
  4. Treat stains on trunks with a 5% solution of zinc chloride. There is no need to clean the wounds. This procedure should be carried out every 3-4 years.

Biological bactericides with targeted action are effective: Gaupsin, Pentofag-S, Fitosporin, Alirin-B. To prevent the spread of bacterial necrosis, treatment with Bordeaux mixture (1%) is necessary.

Viral diseases of apple trees

Mosaic

Symptoms: the appearance of pale green or yellowish spots on young leaves. The veins are colored normally. As the disease progresses, the leaves become fragile and fall off. The apple tree grows and develops poorly.

Control measures: the disease cannot be treated; a tree with signs of damage must be uprooted and burned.

As preventive measures use the following:

  1. Purchasing healthy planting material.
  2. Compliance with quarantine measures.
  3. Spraying against sucking insects will prevent the spread of the virus.

Star cracking of fruits

The disease affects young fruits. Shapeless spots appear on them, in the center of which star-shaped cracks form. The surrounding tissues become dark brown, almost black. Leaves on the branches upper tier become lighter, the tree grows poorly.

The apple tree will remain sick for life, having become infected with viruses. Fighting them is impossible. If a disease is detected, the tree must be uprooted and burned.

Preventive measures:

  • use of virus-free planting material;
  • spraying against sucking insects (aphids, mites);
  • weed control.

Paniculation (proliferation)

Signs of damage: side shoots appear on apple trees huge quantities. They are distinguished by short internodes, the bark acquires a reddish tone. A sick tree stops growing.

Sharp, large teeth appear on the edges of the leaves. The flowers become green and ugly. Fruiting slows down, the fruits become very pale and tasteless.

Diseased apple trees cannot be treated; the trees must be uprooted and burned as quickly as possible. As a preventive measure, also use sprays against sucking insects that carry viruses. You can purchase varieties that are resistant to damage viral diseases, for example, Antonovka vulgaris.

Rosette (small leaves)

Signs of damage: leaves become small, hard, ugly, yellow-green. The edges are curling leaf blades take on a cup-like shape. The fruits of a diseased apple tree are small and tasteless. The internodes of the shoots are greatly shortened, and rosettes of leaves (normal and deformed) appear at the tops.

Treatment consists of timely removal and destruction of the part of the tree with signs of the disease. Process the cuts oil paint, adding zinc sulfate to it.

Before buds open, spray the plant with a solution of zinc sulfate. If the disease is not very advanced, use a 5% solution, for moderate lesions - 8%, for severe lesions - 12%. If necessary, re-treat with a 0.5% solution. Prevention measures include: spring application of fertilizers for trees and timely removal of weeds.