Do-it-yourself crossbar for scaffolding. Scaffolding - description of types and designs. An alternative option for manufacturing scaffolding

It will not be at all difficult for the owner of a private house to make scaffolding with his own hands if he has the skills to handle welding equipment and various tools. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repairing the surfaces of building facades at height. The structure is erected along the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the facade walls.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The structure of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal connections. The platforms are decking made of wooden panels or other materials. Message between at different levels construction is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

Shoes.
Vertical posts and horizontal connections.
Flooring.
Railing.
Stairs.
Net.

Shoes

The supports for the vertical posts are shoes (thrust bearings). Typically these are metal platforms with vertical slots for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, spacers and pads made of wood or metal are used.

The shoes are the ultimate structural elements scaffolding that transfers the entire load from the structure to soil foundation. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the locations for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will skew and the structure will become unsuitable for use. To prepare the support areas, use a level or laser level.

Vertical posts and horizontal links

The racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of small height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Racks made of metal pipes are much more often used.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as installation progresses horizontal connections. Connections between frame elements are made in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the construction sites.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, serves as connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffolding frame.

Railing

All openings facing outwards must have railings. Fences are made of 50x50 mm timber. The railings are located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

Stairs

Transitions between different levels of platforms are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from steel profile. Duralumin ladders are not uncommon when arranging forests.

It is advisable to install stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows a worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to requirements building codes and rules (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating Green colour(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

Prevents workers from accidentally falling.
Prevents various objects from falling out of the working area.
Protects from bright sunlight.
Protects the façade of the building during painting works from the penetration of dust from outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the posts along the facade of the building is from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines the transverse size between the external and internal fencing of the scaffolding, must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame you will need following materials and tools:

Hand or circular saw.
Hammer and pliers.
Roulette and level.
Nails.
Wooden beam with a section of 100×100 mm, 50×50 mm.
Boards with a section of 100×30 mm, 100×40 mm.

The thickness of the lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. The lumber must be dry, without large knots or cracks. Under no circumstances should you use raw wood. In addition to the fact that wet wood is heavy, it can become significantly deformed when drying.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to fit the height of the scaffolding.
Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
The racks are nailed down with crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at a rate of no more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams must be level with the deck.
The resulting frames are laid on their sides, securing the position with temporary supports.
The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
The structure is turned over on the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal connections are repeated.
During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
Platforms made from sections of boards are nailed to the supports from below.
Roofing felt or roofing felt is laid in the places where the scaffolding will stand.
The scaffolding is raised to a vertical position so that the legs of the structure precisely fall into the intended places.
Using shims, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
Install the flooring. The flooring consists of longitudinal boards knocked down with a transverse beam.
The decking boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
WITH outside of scaffolding, railings made of boards are nailed over the flooring.
A staircase leading to the upper platform is installed.
For convenient and safe movement of workers, stair railings are installed.
As the structure is being erected, based on individual characteristics facade, can use temporary fixation of scaffolding using additional connections with building elements. These are spacers, bevels and so on.

At the end of the work, the forests are disassembled into separate elements that can serve to meet other needs of the household plot.

Types of homemade scaffolding made from metal pipes

Supporting structures for scaffolding made from metal profiles may differ in the way the load-bearing elements are connected. These are wedge, clamp and pin fastening units.

Wedge forests

The connection units include support platforms with mounting holes into which wedge-shaped holders of support elements fit. Making such structures yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fastenings

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that structures can “hug” facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to their simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolding is especially popular among home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacturing and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you begin making multi-level scaffolding from pipes, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

Electric welding unit.
Angle machine (grinder).
Electric drill.
Bending device.
Level.

Materials:

Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

Smooth reinforcement is cut into pieces 40 cm long.
On a bending device, sections of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, obtaining support pins.
The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. A piece of smooth fittings is inserted halfway into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is placed on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, the length being equal to the height of the scaffolding.
From a pipe ø 20 mm, a grinder is used to cut sleeves 200 mm long.
Using a tape measure and a marker, mark the places for welding the vertical sleeves.
The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 to each other.
On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are facing down.
Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20x20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
The height of the sockets (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Typically, nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
Boards and timber are nailed into panels that will serve as flooring.
Where the flooring will rest on the outer beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the shield from below. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards so that the pipe beam passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire scaffolding frame.
In the areas where shields connect to cross beam Weld sections of steel angles on both sides so that the horizontal flanges of the angles are flush with the pipe.
The pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the sockets.
In places where staircases will be adopted, openings are left between the flooring panels.
If you need to extend the racks in height, then pipe sleeves are welded to the upper ends of the supports larger diameter, which form the mounting sockets for the upper posts.
The stairs are welded from sections of the same pipes.
The racks are brought into a vertical position.
The pins are inserted into the sockets.
Lay the flooring.
Stairs are installed.

The scaffolding is ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Assembly of clamp scaffolding

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. The only tools you will need are wrenches.

Along with this, it should be noted that installing and removing clamps requires significant time. The cost of clamps is quite high. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large number of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. Good to use for this grinder with an emery wheel.

After this, the structures are primed with a product for external metal work. Dried pipes are coated with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

During intensive forest exploitation, metal elements are tinted once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are repainted as needed. Store forests in a dry, ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This popular name simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of brick or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple device consisting of triangles with right angles.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console on an axis is placed. The console at one end presses the vertical structure with one of its legs against the wall of the building, and at the other end it rests against the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring rests.

Self-made “Armenian scaffolding” is far from safe, and must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly recoup all the costs of manufacturing the structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. By using ladder Not everything can be done, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, availability welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But construction wood must be used to make them. good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards You can also make scaffolding, but each of them needs to be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

You need to talk about the thickness of the board specifically, referring to the design scaffolding, distances between racks and planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work Oh, if you manage to avoid damaging it when dismantling the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better than nails. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But this we're talking about about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. For work with lightweight materials too much load-bearing capacity is not needed. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or exterior decoration short one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding- simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive because it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble/disassemble/move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. The top crossbar is made 80-100 cm long, and flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. That's two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical racks, connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.
Clamps. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together using clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling
Frame. From round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades complex shapes.

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

In construction or repair work Projects carried out at height cannot be done without scaffolding. Equipment for construction work can be rented for the duration of the work, but it is not cheap, especially for long periods. renovation projects. Having calculated the required height and configuration, scaffolding can be constructed independently.

The purpose of scaffolding is the ability to deliver building materials to heights and the safety of construction workers staying there during work. To do this, the structure must be stable, durable, with a mechanism for lifting, lowering and protection. Wood or metal is best suited for scaffolding.

Scaffolding consist of several elements:

support frames are the frame, it bears the main load;
floorings (stages) on which builders and working material are located;
handrails to protect against accidents;
stops - for a stable position;
spacers (diagonal and horizontal) - for the strength of the racks and uniform weight distribution;
stairs for ascent and descent.

From this article you will learn how to properly collect wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step-by-step instruction. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional accessories for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced cross members without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to link greatest number racks

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be reliable. If under your feet loose soil or sand - do it wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
Always install handrails with inside racks.
Use a fascia board (fencing near the deck).
The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a brace.
We prepare required amount"envelopes".
Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

Install the handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is carried out in reverse order— dismantling of flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Correct installation of scaffolding is the key to worker safety when carrying out various works on high. Therefore, you must strictly follow the assembly rules below.

General requirements for installation of all types of scaffolding

The process of installing scaffolding of all types can be divided into several stages:

Preliminary work.
Preparing the work site.
Direct assembly and installation of scaffolding.
Checking installation reliability.

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages.

Preparatory stage

Before installation begins, the management of the organization conducting work at the site appoints a person responsible for the work, who must have special knowledge and skills. It is under his control that the installation process will take place.

The responsible work performer is obliged to:

study the design of scaffolding and the features of their installation site;
accept a set of equipment from the warehouse, check its completeness and serviceability;
develop a scaffolding installation scheme for the serviced facility;
make sure that the installers have permits that allow them to work at heights;
instruct installers on safety precautions, as well as familiarize them with the structure of a specific scaffolding model and assembly diagram.

At the preliminary work stage it is also necessary:

install temporary protective fences along the border danger zone , the dimensions of which are calculated according to SNiP 12-03-2001 “Safety in construction” Part 1 “ General requirements" and SNiP 12-04-2002 "Safety in construction" Part 2 " Construction production" So, for forests 30 meters high, the width of the danger zone should be at least 7 meters. If a protective net is hung on the scaffolding, it is permitted not to mark the boundaries of the danger zone;
post signs warning about high-altitude work, guided by the requirements of GOST 12.4.026, as well as signs indicating diagrams of the movement of workers, placement of cargo and maximum permissible load;
deliver a fully tested and serviceable kit to the installation site scaffolding;
install and check the functionality of the equipment necessary for assembling scaffolding (roof crane, electric winch, etc.) - it is important to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations lifting mechanisms;
check safety belts and replace faulty ones, if any;
prepare the site for installation of an auxiliary structure.

Work site requirements

To install scaffolding, you need to prepare an asphalt concrete or dirt platform at least 3 meters wide.
The soil area should be cleared of debris, leveled and compacted (if the soil is wet, then compaction is carried out by adding crushed stone, concrete, broken bricks and etc.).
If necessary, it is necessary to organize the drainage of surface and ground water from the site for installation of scaffolding. .
If the scaffolding installation site has a height difference, then the site must be leveled horizontally in the longitudinal and transverse directions. For this purpose, concrete plates or boards with a thickness of at least 40-55 mm.

The procedure for assembling and installing scaffolding

The technological process of installing scaffolding of all types consists of assembling the first, second, third and subsequent tiers and securing them to the facade of the building. This process will be discussed in more detail below.

When installing scaffolding, a number of important points should be taken into account:

During installation electric wires located at a distance of less than 5 meters from the structure should be de-energized or placed in wooden or plastic boxes. Contact of scaffolding elements with electrical wires is not allowed.
The assembly of the auxiliary structure must be carried out in strict accordance with the scaffolding passport.
Installation, as a rule, begins from the corner of the building or structure along which they are planned to be installed.
Under the shoes (thrust bearings) or screw supports of the scaffolding, special pads made of boards are installed, the thickness of which should be at least 4-5 cm.
If the configuration of the walls does not allow the installation of scaffolding with the shoes resting on the ground, then the scaffolding is mounted on supporting devices at a height.
Vertical elements The structures are connected to each other using the “pipe to pipe” principle.
The method of connecting horizontal and diagonal scaffolding connections depends on their type: for frame scaffolding– using flag locks; for clamps - using special clamps; For wedge forests special wedges are used.
The verticality of the structure should be controlled using a plumb line after installing each tier.
The scaffolding is secured to the wall using anchors or factory-made metal plugs. To install them, holes are drilled in the wall of the building every four meters in a checkerboard pattern, the depth and diameter of which must correspond to the selected anchors.
When laying flooring, you need to control the gap between the boards - no more than 5 mm; protrusions of boards - no more than 3 mm and overlap of support deck joints - no more than 200 mm.
To protect against electrical discharges, scaffolding must be equipped with grounding and lightning rods.
It is necessary to install protective fences on the working and safety tiers of scaffolding.

Quality requirements and acceptance of work

During the installation of scaffolding, three types of control are carried out: input - checking the completeness and serviceability of the scaffolding, current - checking compliance with the installation technology, as well as control during acceptance of work, which is carried out before the start of operation.

The main controlled parameters and characteristics, methods of their measurement and evaluation are given in the table.

Technological operations	Controlled parameter, characteristic	Acceptable value, requirement	Control method and tool
Marking the extreme points horizontally	Marking accuracy	+/- 2.0 mm	Level
Marking the extreme points vertically	Marking accuracy	+/- 2.0 mm	Theodolite
Marking intermediate attachment points	Marking accuracy	+/- 2.0 mm	Laser level, plumb line, tape measure
Drilling holes for anchors or plugs	Depth, H Diameter, D	H = screw length + 10.0 mm D = screw diameter + 0.2 mm	Depth gauge, bore gauge
	Distance to opening, building corner	Not less than 150.0 mm	Roulette
	Hole cleanliness	No dust	Visually
Installation of shoes	Thickness of the board lining	40 – 50 mm	Metal ruler
Assembly of sections and tiers of scaffolding	Deviation from verticality	+/- 1.0 mm at 2 m height	Plumb line, ruler
	Deviation from horizontality	+/- 1.0 mm per 3 m length	Level, ruler
	The gap between the building wall and the decking	No more than 150 mm	Ruler
	Linear dimensions	Deviation from design dimensions +/- 1%	Laser roulette
Attaching scaffolding to the wall	The force that pulls the anchor out of the wall	Not less than 300 kgf	Plug monitoring device
Laying the flooring	Gap between boards	No more than 5 mm	Sample
	Board protrusions	No more than 3 mm	Ruler
	Covering support deck joints	Not less than 200 mm	Metal ruler
Scaffolding grounding device	Ground resistance	No more than 15 Ohm	Tester

To accept the work, a special commission is created, which necessarily includes the person responsible for the assembly, the chief engineer construction organization and responsible for safety precautions. The acceptance of the scaffolding is documented with a work acceptance certificate - only after this can the operation of the structure begin.

Instructions for assembly and installation of frame scaffolding

Let's consider the assembly and installation scheme using frame scaffolding as an example: auxiliary structures of this type are among the most common among construction organizations.

Stage 1. Wooden pads and thrust bearings are installed on the prepared site. It is necessary to ensure that the supporting surfaces of the structure frames are strictly in a horizontal plane.

Stage 2. Installation of frames of the first tier and connecting them with horizontal and diagonal connections. Fence frames are mounted along the edges of the required length of scaffolding

Stage 3. Assembly of frames of the second tier. Diagonal connections should be installed in a checkerboard pattern. During installation, crossbars are used on which decking panels are laid.

The cost of installation services is from 110 rubles. / m2

To receive a detailed calculation, contact our managers by phone or via .