During renovations, you want to put things in order everywhere, including the bathroom. Brand new coating walls, beautiful ceiling, fresh plumbing... There’s just one important nuance– an old bathtub with a terrible yellowed and cracked coating, on the surface of which there may be some pretty scary black chips. Changing this element of convenience in an apartment is not as easy as it seems, and it is also an expensive pleasure. But there is a way out. A coating that has lost its appearance can be restored quite quickly and cheaply. In this case, it will be easy to cope without the help of professionals. Restoring the enamel coating of a bathroom with your own hands is quite possible and will not require huge amounts of money.
Why “save” the bathtub?
Before you learn how to revive an old bathroom coating without completely replacing it, you should understand why you need to restore it at all. Why isn't it easier to buy and install a new one?
A new bathroom costs a lot of money, especially a high-quality cast iron one. Of course, you can buy an ordinary metal one, but it causes some discomfort to the residents living in the apartment: filling with water is accompanied by a loud sound, which even neighbors can hear in thin-walled houses.
You still need to manage to install the new bathtub while dismantling the old one. And this is not as simple as it seems. Such work will entail a large number of garbage, and heavy one at that. At the same time, women will not be able to cope with it - in any case, strong people are needed man's hands and those who dismantle everything will endure. Just apply a new one enamel coating Probably everyone can.
Fortunately, the factory enamel in the bathtub is quite durable, and some apartment owners do not even have to deal with such a procedure as restoring it. This can be achieved thanks to the special technology used for application. The bathtub blank is subjected to strong heating and only then covered protective coating, that is, enamel. In theory, it can last for centuries, but due to constant cleaning and treatment of the bathtub, this does not happen. On the contrary, the bathtub slowly but surely loses its appearance, the enamel turns yellow and becomes not smooth to the touch, but rough.
Yes, enamel is needed not only for beauty - it also protects the bathtub from the effects of various aggressive factors (for example, cleaning agents, water of different temperatures). Without enamel, the metal loses some of its qualities - for example, at the site of damage, cast iron will begin to rust, and the rust will spread further and further, destroying the product.
Attention! If the damage to the enamel is not repaired in a timely manner, then rust can destroy the entire product or radically change the appearance of the bathtub.
Of course, it is impossible to create factory conditions in an apartment, and it is also impossible to restore the enamel perfectly. But it can still be reapplied, which will help restore the bathtub to a beautiful and tidy appearance. And this - without unnecessary financial and physical costs.
Note! , applied at home yourself, will not last as long as the factory one, but is still capable of turning your old bath to a new one. But you need to handle it with care - it is less resistant to mechanical/chemical influences and can even change color due to contact with certain substances.
In general, there are now following methods recovery appearance bathroom
- Acrylic coating- so-called self-filling bath. The interior of the structure is filled with liquid acrylic.
- Acrylic liner– sold in construction stores or made to order. Placed in the bathtub.
- Replacement old bath for a new one.
- Enamel coating- simply put, applying special paint to the inner surface of the bowl.
What will you need?
In order to carry out restoration work, you will need certain materials and tools:
- respirator;
- brush, roller for applying enamel;
- old clothes or apron;
- rubber gloves;
- sanding machine or sandpaper;
- old rags;
- primer;
- acetone;
- bath restoration kit – in other words, bath enamel.
Currently present on the construction market big choice various enamels for baths, aimed at both professionals and home craftsmen. At the same time, if you are a beginner, it is better to purchase the simplest option - it will not require any special skills to use. Such enamels are sold as in aerosol cans, and in jars (applied with a brush or small roller).
Note! It is best to use the composition that is intended for application with a brush - it covers the old coating perfectly and is easy to work with. Aerosol products are chosen when you need to restore a small chip - in this case, the enamel does not lie uniformly.
A bath restoration kit usually contains two components - a hardener and the enamel itself. There should also be a preparation that will help prepare the bathtub itself for painting. By the way, replacing enamel - great option to select a new bath color. The latter can be painted blue, red, green and other colors using special colors.
Table. Bathroom restoration kits.
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
"Reflex-50" | This set is intended for use by professionals; it is very liquid, so it will be difficult for a beginner to work with it. To cover the old coating, you will need to apply the composition several times. Restoring the bathtub will take at least a week, since each layer must be dried thoroughly. But the coverage is excellent. |
"Svetlana and Fantasia" | These are enamels of medium thickness, they are easy to apply without spreading much, which is optimal for an inexperienced restorer. Easy to apply with a brush. The kit also includes a preparation that is used to treat the surface of the bath before starting work. You can use special colors. |
"Epoksin-51" | Thick, quite viscous enamel, which is applied with a brush - the whole complexity of the work lies in the thickness. At the same time, the enamel spreads perfectly, leaving no streaks. Does not require preliminary puttying. Dries in at least 2 days. |
| A group of drugs that are not essentially enamel. They cover the surface well and are easy to apply – just pour this product over the bathtub. |
Preparing the bath for the procedure
Before you start coating the bathtub with new enamel, you should definitely prepare the surface to be treated. It should become smooth and as light as possible.
Step 1. The bathtub is cleaned of rust. Special acid-based preparations will help with this. Many of them are quite effective. For example, a product based on hydrochloric acid will remove red spots in just 10 minutes, but it will also destroy all the remaining enamel in entire pieces. It is also important to rinse this product thoroughly from the surface of the bath and be sure to follow the instructions for use. There are also more gentle preparations that deal with rust less quickly, but still effectively. Products based on oxalic acid work well, acting more accurately than drugs based on hydrochloric acid. Preparations of the latter type are washed off with water after 30-40 minutes.
Step 2. Next, you need to roughen the surface of the bathtub from the inside - for this you use either sandpaper or a grinding machine. The latter will significantly speed up the work. It is important to thoroughly clean all chips and cracks.
Step 3. After work grinder It is necessary to wash off all dust and dirt from the surface of the bath. After this, the surface is degreased with acetone.
Step 4. The next stage is applying a primer, for example, GF-020. The layer of this substance should be well dried for about two days.
Advice! A reflector will help speed up the drying process. And by the way, it is not necessary to apply a primer.
Step 5. Now you should warm up the bath well - fill it with hot water. But you can also use construction hair dryer– in this case, there is no need to additionally dry the bath.
Now the bathtub is ready for refinishing.
Bathtub enamel coating
We continue restoration work. Now we move on to covering the bathtub with enamel from the inside.
Step 1. The restoration kit is prepared for use in accordance with the instructions. The enamel should be well mixed until smooth.
Step 2. Using a brush, the enamel is applied in long or short strokes. Long from top to bottom and bottom to top, and then right-left or short from bottom-up-right-left. Corners and areas near drain holes are carefully painted.
Step 3. In this way, the enamel is applied several times. Each layer must be thoroughly dried in accordance with the instructions.
Prices for bath enamel
bath enamel
Video - Enameling a bathtub
Chips and scratches
To restore the former beauty of the enamel, you do not always need to resort to drastic measures and paint the entire bathtub. Sometimes it’s enough just to repair chips and scratches. It's not that difficult to do.
For example, from minor scratches A mixture of dry whitewash and BF-2 glue will help get rid of it. It is simply applied to those places where there is minor damage. In this case, it should be applied in several layers so that the latter does not protrude above the surface of the main enamel coating. It is convenient to apply the substance with a regular brush.
For deeper chips, a preparation based on nitro enamel is suitable, to which “Super Cement” is added - a special construction adhesive. The mixture is prepared in a 1:1 ratio. The resulting substance is also applied in layers, each of which is given time to dry (about 24 hours).
A mixture of zinc white and epoxy (1:2) will also help to cope with severe damage. Mix according to the rules epoxy resin, the remaining components are added to it. Zinc white can be easily replaced with porcelain shards. Such a mixture applied to the chip site will take at least 5 days to dry, but it will serve for many years.
When carrying out this work, you should make sure that the color of the enamel and the paint that will be used to restore the scratch match. Otherwise, the bath will be spotty.
And finally, some valuable and useful tips.
Attention! All chemicals, with the help of which restoration work is carried out, are poisonous and dangerous to health, so personal safety measures cannot be neglected. If the work is carried out incorrectly, there is a high risk of ending up in the hospital.
Restoring a bathtub by replacing the old enamel with a new one is a completely do-it-yourself way to restore the product to its former beauty. At the same time, the new coating will serve for at least 5 years if treated with care. Of course, then you’ll have to paint the bathtub again, but considering how much cheaper it is this type work than everyone else, it's definitely worth it. By the way, an important factor influencing the long service life of enamel is chemical composition water. It is also advisable to take this into account when choosing a bath restoration method.
Restoration is a great chance to change the color of the bathtub
Over time, the bathtub loses its attractive appearance. Smudges and traces of rust appear, the gloss disappears, and it becomes rough to the touch. Everything suggests that it’s time to replace the old bathtub. And these are not small expenses. In addition, when replacing a bathtub, you cannot do without renovating the entire bathroom, and small expenses will turn into medium, or even large ones. But there is an alternative - do-it-yourself bathtub restoration. There are a large number of materials on the market with which you can independently update your bathtub with the proper quality.
Bathroom restoration methods
Now there are three methods for restoring old bathtubs:
1. Restoration of the enamel surface of the bathtub.
2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.
3. Restoration by installing an insert.
Method 1: ordinary enamel
Cast iron and steel enameled bathtubs are the most common types of bathtubs in our apartments. They are produced according to GOST 18297-96, which has been in force since 1997. According to this GOST, the warranty on bathtubs is 2 years. But as practice shows, the enamel on them lasts no more than 10 years of use.
Enamel is applied quite simply to bathtubs in the factory. First, the outer surface is heated red-hot, then enamel powder is sifted onto the inner surface and left for some time to sinter the powder with the metal. Heat the outer surface again until the powder melts. The result is a smooth, glossy enamel coating. It is clear that at home this method restoration cast iron bath, just like steel, is not suitable.
Why does enamel usually wear out?
Wear of the enamel surface occurs as a result of two factors:
- The use of cleaning products containing abrasive powders or substances with chlorine inclusions.
- The use of chemical reagents when cleaning water supply networks.
As a result of many years of exposure to these factors, the enamel surface of the bathtub becomes thinner, becomes rough and begins to rust.
Restoration of an enamel surface
Restoring enamel with your own hands is a fairly simple process. It consists of two stages: preparing the surface and applying a new layer of enamel.
What will you need for work?
You will need the following tools and materials:
- electric drill with a grinding wheel attachment;
- abrasive powder;
- sandpaper;
- rust converter (for example, “Tsinkar”);
- degreaser (for example, Nefras);
- lint-free napkin;
- natural bristle brushes or spray bottle;
- respirator and gloves;
- enamel, preferably two-component (enamel plus hardener).
Preliminary stage: surface preparation
A very important stage. The more thoroughly the bathtub surface is cleaned, the better the quality of the new enamel layer.
- old enamel is sprinkled with abrasive powder and cleaned off using sandpaper or a grinding wheel mounted on an electric drill;
- treat areas affected by corrosion with a rust converter, leave for half an hour, then clean with sandpaper;
- wash off the enamel and crumbs with water;
- thoroughly treat the bathtub with a degreaser using a lint-free cloth;
- fill the bath hot water and let it warm up for 10 minutes;
- drain the water and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth; Make sure that there are no lint or other foreign elements left on the surface.
Main stage: applying enamel
- according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix the enamel and hardener in a certain proportion and mix thoroughly;
- apply the first layer of enamel with a brush or spray;
- maintain a certain period of time according to the instructions;
- apply a second layer of enamel.
This concludes the process of restoring an enamel bathtub with your own hands. It is advisable to wait at least a week before using the bath. This is exactly how long it takes for the enamel to completely polymerize.
The service life of the new enamel will be about 6-8 years.
Method 2: bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic
This method of restoring a bathtub appeared relatively recently, thanks to the advent of a special material - glass acrylic.
How do we restore?
Stakryl is a two-component acrylic material, designed specifically for the restoration of bathtubs. It consists of acrylic itself and a separately supplied hardener. When acrylic and hardener are combined, the polymerization process begins, and when applied to the surface, the composition turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.
Advantages of glass
Stacryl has three remarkable properties that help it quickly and effectively restore a bathtub:
1. Viscosity
The optimally selected glass viscosity coefficient helps without special effort make an acrylic coating 4 mm thick on the walls of the bath and 6 mm on its bottom.
2. Fluidity
The fluidity effect allows the glass to independently envelop the surface of the bathtub and lay down in an even layer.
3. Delayed polymerization
Thanks to this quality, you can calmly and relatively comfortably carry out work on the restoration of the bathtub, without fear that the acrylic will harden too quickly.
Once polymerized, the acrylic surface has mechanical and impact strength far superior to an acrylic liner or enamel layer.
Work execution technology
Technology for restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic even simpler process enameling and is as follows:
1: Surface preparation
This stage is no different from the restoration of an enamel surface. Repeat the same steps. Then disconnect the siphon and place a container under the bathtub drain where excess acrylic will drain.
2: Applying liquid acrylic
- prepare the acrylic mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions;
- pour slowly ready mixture on the upper edge of the bathtub, as soon as the stream reaches the middle, we begin to smoothly move the stream of glass around the perimeter of the bathtub;
- when the circle is closed, repeat the procedure, starting from the middle.
The process of pouring restoration must take place continuously; for this you need to take a glass container of a suitable size. You shouldn’t skimp – it’s better to pour out a little more acrylic than not have enough of it; the excess will go into the container under the drain hole.
Acrylic polymerizes, depending on the type, from one to four days. Choose glass acrylic with a long drying time; in this case, the acrylic surface will be of higher quality.
The service life of the restored bath will be about 20 years.
Method 3: bathtub restoration using a liner
The simplest, but also the most expensive method of restoration is installing an insert. In addition, it is impossible to completely restore the bathtub with your own hands using this method, since the liner is manufactured in a factory.
There is an option to order the production of a liner for a specific bathtub at the enterprise, and install it yourself.
The technology for installing the liner is as follows:
- thoroughly clean and degrease the surface of the bathtub;
- insert the manufactured liner into the bathtub;
- check the correct connection of the drain holes;
- cut the liner along the line of the wall tiles;
- apply special glue to the inner surface of the bathtub and the outer side of the liner and join them;
- The joints are additionally sealed with silicone.
After installing the liner, pour into the bath cold water and leave it for a day. After this, the restored bathtub is ready for use.
The insert will last you up to 10 years.
How much will it cost to restore a bathtub?
In conclusion, we will conduct comparative analysis the cost of restoring a bathtub, based on the methods discussed above.
Bathtub enameling
The cost of high-quality enamel “Reaflex 50” produced by the Finnish company “Tikkurila” is 550 rubles per 1 kg. The Russian restoration kit “Svetlana” costs 750 rubles. As a result, you will have to pay 1300 rubles.
Self-leveling restoration
If you buy a kit for restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic, for example Plastall, it will cost about 2,000 rubles. By the way, it has everything you need for independent work, even a CD with a video lesson.
Acrylic liner
The cost of the insert itself and polymer glue ranges from 2800 to 3000 rubles.
The best option is the pour-over restoration method, in which you will get a beautiful and durable coating for little money. Moreover, any of these methods is several times cheaper than purchase and installation new bath.
Due to intense load, stains, cracks and chips form on the surface of the bathtub. When defects appear, it is not at all necessary to run to the store for a new bathtub, because it is much cheaper to restore the damaged coating using acrylic, enamel or liner. We will tell you how to restore a bathtub with your own hands, eliminate minor defects and how much such repairs will cost from specialists.
There are three main ways to restore the surface of a bathtub:
- Applying a new layer of acrylic (glass).
- Applying a new layer of enamel.
- Gluing the acrylic liner.
Regardless of the restoration method you choose, it is necessary to prepare the bathtub for repair.
Preparatory stage
The process of preparing a bath for renovation:
- Free your bathroom from unnecessary furnishings that may interfere with the work process.
- Dismantle the drain and overflow of the bathroom; to do this, unscrew the outer grilles and clamping rings on the pipes. Depending on condition removed pipes and parts, buy new spare parts in advance to replace old ones.
- Remove the baseboard between the tub and the wall.
- Using coarse sandpaper or a drill with special nozzle, grind the surface of the bath until the gloss is removed. During the sanding process, try to remove all irregularities and loose pieces of the old coating. If the bathtub has been previously restored, then in this case it is necessary to remove the entire layer of the old coating.
- Putty all the chips and holes, after the putty has dried, sand again.
- Remove all debris and dust using a vacuum cleaner or damp cloth.
- Cover the outside of the tub and the floor with plastic.
- Wash the bathtub thoroughly with a quality detergent.
- Degrease the surface of the bathtub using a solvent.
Below is a list of tools and Supplies that you will need at the preparatory stage:
- Adjustable wrench.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Putty knife.
- Putty for metal
- Chisel or chisel.
- Drill with sanding attachment or coarse sandpaper.
- Vacuum cleaner or rag.
- Masking tape.
- Polyethylene film.
- Detergent.
- Solvent.
Having finished preparing the bathtub, proceed to the restoration option you have chosen.
Surface restoration using acrylic
When restoring a bathtub with an acrylic mixture, a very important factor is right choice acrylic manufacturer. After all, the quality of restoration largely depends not on the skill of the worker, but on the behavior of the mixture during pouring. Very often, the use of low-quality acrylic or hardener leads to the formation of air bubbles, smudges and peeling of the coating during further use. Therefore, when purchasing, do not save money and purchase acrylic made in Europe. 
To restore a bathtub with acrylic, follow the following procedure:
- Prepare the bathtub for restoration (see above).
- Read the instructions for preparing the mixture indicated on the acrylic jar.
- Mix acrylic and hardener according to instructions. To mix, use a drill with an attachment. Stir the mixture at low speed with the drill. Mix for at least 10 minutes.
- Take plastic cup and plug the drain hole with it.
- Pour the prepared mixture into the container you will use to fill it.
- Start pouring the mixture from the top edges of the bath, smoothly pouring the acrylic from the container onto the surface.
- Pour the mixture around the entire perimeter of the bath, allowing it to flow freely to the bottom.
- Fill the walls of the bathtub.
- Take a rubber or wooden spatula and use it to evenly distribute the mixture over the edges of the bath.
- Use a spatula to push the mixture that has accumulated at the bottom of the bath onto the walls again and let the acrylic drain again.
- Using a spatula, spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the bath, then remove the plastic glass from the drain hole and allow the excess acrylic to drain into a pre-set container.
- Watch for the formation of smudges. If you find any leakage, smooth it out with a rubber spatula.
- If hair or debris gets on the flooded surface, remove it in a timely manner using the tip of a knife or needle.
- If air bubbles are detected, lightly blow the surface with a hair dryer.
- Once pouring is complete, allow the tub to dry for 48 hours.
- Once the bathtub is dry, install the drain, overflow and baseboard.
- Paint your bathtub with outside metal paint or cover with a decorative border.
Bathtub restoration using acrylic mixture is complete!
List of tools and materials for acrylic restoration:
- Drill with attachment.
- Plastic glass and container for pouring.
- Rubber or wooden spatula.
- Knife or needle.
- Construction hairdryer.
- Wrench.
- Screwdriver.
- Brushes or spray gun.
- Sealant.
- Acrylic.
- Hardener.
- Paint for metal.
- Skirting board.
- Decorative board.
WITH detailed instructions on restoring a bathtub with acrylic, you can also watch the video:
Surface restoration using enamel
Restoring a bathtub using enamel is much cheaper than other options, but it has its drawbacks. Firstly, this is the service life of the restored surface, which is significantly shorter than that of acrylic coatings. Secondly, in order for the enamel layer to be as good as the acrylic coating, high professionalism is required when applying the enamel. Thirdly, enamel is more susceptible to mechanical damage than acrylic. 
If, despite all the shortcomings, you decide to restore the bathtub with enamel, then do the following:
- Prepare the bathtub for renovation (see above).
- Read the instructions on the packaging of the purchased enamel. There are two types of enamel, ready for use and requiring the addition of a hardener.
- Mix hardener and enamel in the proportions specified in the instructions.
- Please note that the enamel surface is applied to the bath in two layers, so you will need two cans of enamel. The second can of enamel is opened and mixed with hardener only after the first layer has dried.
- Using a wide brush, apply the first coat of enamel to the bathtub. Try to apply the enamel without leaving streaks or smudges. Promptly remove debris and brush hairs that have fallen onto the surface.
- Due to the increased load on the bottom of the bathtub, it needs to be painted twice.
- After the first layer has dried, mix a second can of enamel with hardener.
- Apply a second coat of enamel to the tub.
- Each manufacturer has its own time for complete drying of the enamel; you can find it in the instructions or on the packaging. After the enamel has completely dried, install the drain, overflow, baseboard and decorative edge.
Bathtub enamel coating is complete!
Tools and materials needed to restore a bathtub with enamel:
- Drill with attachment.
- Wrench.
- Screwdriver.
- Tassels.
- Sealant.
- Enamel.
- Hardener.
- Skirting board.
- Decorative board.
You can also watch how to restore a bathtub using enamel in the video:
Restoring a bathtub using a liner
The main problem with this restoration option is selecting a liner that exactly matches the shape of your bathtub. This problem is especially acute for owners of antique and custom bathtubs. If you have a standard and relatively new bathtub, you will not have problems finding an insert. 
To install the liner you need to do the following:
- Prepare the bathtub for restoration as described above.
- By using electric jigsaw or hacksaws, cut off the safety edge from the edges of the liner.
- Place the liner in the bathtub and mark the drain hole and overflow.
- Remove the liner from the bathtub and drill holes according to the markings.
- Sand the edges of the holes with fine-grit sandpaper.
- Apply sealant around the edges of the drain and overflow.
- Apply strips of polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of subsequent expansion over the entire surface of the bathtub. The stripes should be located at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from each other. Under no circumstances use regular polyurethane foam, this may cause the liner to become deformed.
- Install the liner on the bathtub and install the drain with overflow.
- Fill the bathtub with water to press the liner more tightly to the bathtub.
- Leave the bath with water for 24 hours until the foam dries completely.
- Drain the water and remove the protective film from the liner.
- Install a baseboard and a decorative edge on the bathtub.
Installation of the liner is complete!
Tools and materials required to install the liner:
- Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for metal.
- Drill with attachment for large holes.
- Wrench.
- Screwdriver.
- Sandpaper.
- Polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of subsequent expansion.
- Skirting board.
- Decorative board.
- Acrylic liner.
You can also watch how to install an acrylic liner in the video:
Correction of minor defects on the surface of the bathtub
If one or two small chips or small cracks appear on the surface of the bath, complete restoration not entirely reasonable. In such cases, it is enough to make minor repairs and eliminate defects.
Repairing chips on a cast iron bathtub
For repair you will need:
- Automotive putty.
- Enamel of the same color with coating.
- Sandpaper.
- Solvent.
- Brush.
- Putty knife.
Dry the chipped area and sand it with sandpaper. Pry the edges of the chip with a knife and remove the loose pieces of enamel. Degrease the surface of the chip with solvent and cover it with automotive putty. After drying, the level of the putty should be slightly below the level of the enamel. Sand the putty area with sandpaper. Using a brush, apply a layer of enamel to the putty. After the enamel has dried, you can use the bath again. 
Repairing a chip on an acrylic bathtub
The acrylic sheet from which the acrylic bathtub is made is quite resistant to mechanical damage. But there are times when, due to objects with sharp corners falling into the bathtub, chips form on the surface and the need for repairs arises.
To remove a chip in an acrylic bathtub you will need:
- Acrylic of the same color as the bathtub cover.
- Hardener.
- Solvent.
- Rubber spatula.
- Fine-grit sandpaper.
Dry the chipped area and sand it with sandpaper. Remove dust and degrease the chip with a solvent. Mix a small amount of acrylic with hardener. You need to get a mixture of strong viscosity, otherwise the acrylic will leak out of the damaged area. Apply the mixture to the chip using a spatula and level the surface and the damaged area. Allow the acrylic to dry for 48 hours before you can use the bathtub. 
Removing stains and rust
Usually, to remove stubborn stains and rust from the surface of the bathtub, using a high-quality detergent is enough. But especially difficult cases To remove contaminants, you can use hydrochloric acid.
Apply the acid to the contaminated area for 3-5 minutes. After this, wipe the area with a washcloth until the stain disappears and rinse off the acid with water.
Please note that hydrochloric acid emits toxic fumes and can burn the skin, therefore, when working with it, you must use gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. 
Questions and answers on bathtub restoration
In this section, we will try to answer the most common questions regarding the restoration of bathtubs.
Question: What material is best to use for bathtub restoration?
Answer: The choice of material largely depends on financial capabilities. The most economical option restoration, it is considered to cover the bathtub with enamel, and the most expensive is the use of an acrylic liner. As for the quality of the coating and its service life, the acrylic liner comes first, its service life is 10-15 years. In second place is acrylic coating, service life from 5 to 15 years, depending on operating conditions and quality of filling. And last but not least is the enamel coating, which lasts up to 5 years.
Question: Is it possible to restore a bathtub at home?
Answer: Yes, you can. To do this, carefully read the materials and videos presented in our article. Be sure to follow the instructions for use of restoration materials.
Question: How can I give the coating my favorite color?
Answer: Of course, it is best to buy enamel or acrylic of the desired shade. But if there is a need to change the color of the mixture, then during the mixing process, you can always add dye.
Question: How much does it cost to restore a bathtub when contacting specialists?
Answer: The cost of restoration depends on the region and the cost of the consumables used. Below, we provide a list of approximate prices for bathtub restoration, depending on the type of coating:
- Restoration with liquid acrylic - from 3,000 to 6,000 rubles.
- Restoration with enamel - from 2000 to 5000 rubles.
- Restoration using an insert - from 5,000 to 12,000 rubles.
We hope that the information presented in our article was useful to you!
Over time, even a very high-quality bathtub coating becomes unsightly. Unremovable stains, stains, rust, as well as chips, scratches and other damage appear on the surface. And every owner has the thought of replacing equipment. But this process is very difficult to perform and expensive. In addition, often old bathtubs were made of cast iron, which makes it very heavy, therefore, even the removal process will not be the easiest. Therefore, many are trying to restore old bathtubs.
Fortunately, even very damaged enamel coating of a bathtub can be restored, because your performance characteristics the bathtub preserves entirely. Thanks to modern technologies It is possible to restore the old enamel coating. But is it worth doing?
Is there any point in restoring old bathtubs?
Before starting restoration, calculate how much a new bathtub will cost
To understand whether it makes sense to renovate your old bathtub, you need to estimate how much it will cost to replace the old equipment and accordingly draw a conclusion about its feasibility. To do this, you will have to add to the cost of the bath the costs of dismantling old equipment and delivering new equipment, as well as lifting and descending from the floor, in the case of living in an apartment. In addition, installing a new bathtub also costs money, but often, in addition to installing the equipment, you have to repair the old wall and floor covering, partially or entirely.
Based on the procedures described above, it turns out that replacing the bathtub will entail partial or complete renovation bathroom. Therefore, replacing a bathtub makes sense during an apartment renovation. Otherwise, it will be much more profitable to revive the old bathtub.
Often, not everyone can afford the impressive costs of replacement, so let’s look at options for restoring an old bathtub. On this moment There are only three recovery methods:
- renewal of enamel coating by manual application;
- applying liquid acrylic (stacryl);
- installation of the finished acrylic liner.
Before you repair an old bathtub, you should consider each process separately, because they have their own characteristics. But first you need to understand the cause of enamel wear.
What are the reasons for wear of the enamel coating?
The cause of enamel wear is considered to be bad water and poor bathroom maintenance
Over time, the enamel coating is affected by various factors that contribute to premature wear, but there are main reasons:
- poor quality tap water, the content of aggressive substances and unrefined abrasive particles;
- the use of abrasive and chlorine-containing substances and materials during bath cleaning;
- if they are often used to clean water pipes chemical reagents, this also negatively affects the enamel.
All these conditions, of course, do not take effect immediately, but over time the enamel coating becomes thinner, rust appears from under it, and the surface becomes rough and unpleasant to the touch.
From here it is easy to conclude how to delay the (alas, inevitable) wear of the enamel as late as possible.
Restoration methods
When the moment for the bathtub covering to become unusable has finally arrived, and complete replacement the font was deemed inappropriate, the time has come to choose one of the restoration methods.
Applying enamel
Applying enamel to the surface with a brush
Among all restoration methods, enamel application is the oldest and most widely used method. This method is very similar to painting, with the exception of the material used, because special enamel is used during restoration. Among enamel paints for restoring bathtubs, there are two types:
- professional enamels for industrial application - are very liquid and are most often applied by spraying in several layers;
- simple enamels for manual application - used for independent use and have a thicker structure, which allows you to apply it with a roller or brush in 1-2 layers.
Among the advantages of this method of restoring damaged coatings are:
- low cost of application and material;
- During repairs, dismantling of equipment, drain and overflow hoses is not required;
- it doesn’t matter which bathtub is cast iron or steel, enamel is suitable for both types.
Enamel in cans is used for local restoration
Unfortunately, this type of restoration has more disadvantages than advantages, among them the following stand out:
- the post-repair period of operation of the updated coating does not exceed 5-8 years;
- due to the increased fragility of the new coating, it does not withstand impacts that can lead to chipping;
- The drying time for the renewed coating of an old bathtub is 5-7 days;
- over time, they appear on the coating yellow spots or the entire surface is covered with yellowness;
- since the enamel is not applied in thick layers, the possibility of hiding defects such as dents, chips, bumps, etc. is eliminated.
Repairing an old bathtub with your own hands using enamel paint is the cheapest and least quality, since the updated coating is much softer than the factory one. Therefore, surface care should be gentle.
Tip: Instead of using abrasive and chemical cleaners, as well as hard sponges, you should use a mild soap solution. In addition, it is strictly forbidden to hit the surface with any metal objects and fill the bathtub with very hot water. The set of water should start with cold and gradually add hot.
Restoration with liquid acrylic
Liquid acrylic has a long service life
Restoring an old bathtub using two-component acrylic is a new and simplest method.
Reference: Stacryl is used as a restoring liquid, which is a two-component acrylic filler used directly for bathtubs. The liquid contains acrylic and a special hardener, during mixing of which the material polymerizes.
The application process is quite simple. Diluted stacrylic is gradually poured onto the previously prepared surface in an even layer, which forms a reliable coating on the surface. This recovery method has the following advantages:
- Durability of the coating. If the application procedure and operating conditions of the new coating are competent and thorough, then the service life can be 15-20 years;
- Elimination of defects. By applying the new coating in a sufficiently thick layer, which is 4-6 mm, the majority of surface defects are eliminated. For example, chips, dents, pores, etc.;
- Perfectly smooth glossy finish. Since glass is a fairly thick material at its base, when it spreads it fills and eliminates various defects, and an almost perfect glossy coating is formed on the surface;
- Speed of operation. Liquid acrylic is very easily and quickly applied to the surface due to the extreme simplicity of the technology;
- Absolute safety. Glasscryl has no sharp unpleasant odors, which allows it to be used even in places with poor ventilation. Using this material, you can not fear for the health of your loved ones, even if there are allergy sufferers, elderly people and children in the house.
The disadvantages of this restoration method include:
- Finishing an old bathtub in this way has a long drying time, which is about 3 days. During this period, it is forbidden to touch the bathtub and, in general, to come close, so as not to bring various debris to the surface in the form of dust, water, hair, etc.;
- Another disadvantage is the high cost of finishing compared to enameling. Although these costs are justified by a longer service life and a more wear-resistant coating.
Installing an acrylic repair liner
Acrylic liner is stronger than liquid acrylic
Repairs of old bathtubs are also carried out using the “bath-to-bath” method using a special acrylic insert, which is glued inside old equipment. To carry out the operation, a special adhesive foam is used; it is applied to the surface of the old bathtub, after which the liner is installed. If all preparatory and repair procedures are carried out correctly, the service life can be 15 years.
Among the positive qualities of this restoration method are:
- the strength of the acrylic liner is much higher than that of the enamel coating;
- the new surface completely hides everything possible defects coatings;
- yellow spots do not appear on the acrylic liner over time;
- this restoration method allows you to connect everything positive traits cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.
Despite all the advantages of this method, there are also disadvantages:
- before installing the acrylic insert, you need to disconnect the bath from the siphon, which is quite difficult to do with old products;
- in the case where the bath is made of “thin cast iron”, which can bend, installing the liner is prohibited, since bending the equipment may damage the integrity of the adhesive and cause the liner to fall off;
A few words about preparatory measures
In all restoration options, preliminary cleaning of the surface is necessary.
Although all restoration methods differ from each other, preliminary preparation surfaces are almost the same. So how to make an old bath new and what you will need for this:
- First of all, before starting restoration, the surface of the bath is completely cleaned, that is, all complex contaminants are removed;
- Then all surface defects are smoothed out, namely scratches, dimples, and the entire surface is ground. This procedure is performed using fine-grain sandpaper;
- Immediately before application, the resulting dust and debris is cleaned, and then everything is degreased.
Important! Sanding and degreasing increases the adhesion of the material to the surface, and, consequently, the quality and durability of the finish.
How to care for a restored surface?
Apply detergents without abrasives
When cleaning the bathroom, it is strictly prohibited to use various materials, which include:
- Use of any abrasive substances, such as cleaning powders. After all, scratches form on the surface, and the coating quickly loses its original appearance;
- Funds are prohibited household chemicals, which include: industrial alcohol, ammonia, acetone, formaldehyde, solvents and strong acids;
- Cigarette stains and small scratches (up to 2 mm) are removed using “zero” sandpaper, that is, the finest;
- Cleaning with metal brushes and dry cleaning is also prohibited.
- It is highly undesirable to wash pets, dye hair, or get mousses and varnishes on the surface in restored baths.
To the question “How to make a bath new?” we can responsibly say that everything depends on care; restoration is already a consequence of improper cleaning that has been going on for many years. Therefore, to make the bath as good as new you need:
- The bathtub can only be washed with a soft cloth or sponge, which will help preserve glossy surface ideal for as long as possible;
- Rust stains can be removed using a solution of vinegar or lemon juice;
- For cleaning, use a mild cleaning agent, which is applied for 7-10 minutes, after which it is removed with a soft cloth and a stream of water;
- In hydromassage systems, cleaning occurs a little differently. The bath is filled with water with the addition of a cleaning agent and turned on for 5-10 minutes, after which it is left with the liquid for another 10-15 minutes. Then the liquid is drained and everything is washed with a stream of water and a soft cloth.
We draw conclusions: restoration or replacement?
Use soft cloth or sponge for cleaning the bathtub
If you have any doubts about what is the best way to cover an old bathtub, you should seek advice from specialists or study their reports. Of course, the choice remains with the owner. If the repair is required as a cosmetic one and for a short period of time in order to make a replacement during the repair, then you should choose the cheapest option, that is, manual enameling. But when you need a budget but durable coating, it is best to use glass. The latter method is the most expensive and is not suitable for temporary repairs.
To prevent the question of how to restore an old bathtub from arising for a very long time, you need to use only high-quality and proven materials for repairs and strictly adhere to processing technology. You can see the nuances of the technology in the video.
Despite the emergence and active use modern materials for the manufacture of sanitary equipment, the popularity of cast iron bathtubs still remains quite high level. These heavy, clumsy products easily outperform acrylic and steel models that are more varied in shape and color, due to their performance characteristics.
In addition to low thermal conductivity, high strength and durability, they are famous for their maintainability, due to which an old cast iron bathtub can easily be updated using affordable materials. In this article we will tell you how to restore cast iron bath, without unnecessary hassle, returning it to its original purity, smoothness and shine.
Features of restoration of cast iron bathtubs
A cast iron bathtub is a practical and durable plumbing fixture that has for a long time service, good strength properties and significant weight, which, depending on the size of the model, can reach up to 500-600 kg. Cast iron itself is black, but the white color of the product is given by the enamel, on the surface of which minor damage, cracks, and color changes occur during operation.
Restoring a cast iron bathtub has the following features:
- The thickness of the walls of a cast iron washing container is 0.6-0.8 cm, so models made from this material are considered more repairable compared to thin-walled steel products. Restoring a cast iron bathtub is possible even with fairly deep damage.
- The service life of high-quality cast iron plumbing equipment exceeds 50 years, but the enamel coating on the inner surface of the bowl wears out much earlier. If you restore the enamel, the restored device will be almost like new, so restoring a cast-iron bathtub with your own hands is cost-effective.
Note! High-quality cast-iron bathtub models are quite expensive; for a spacious product with a length of 160-170 cm you will have to pay at least 20 thousand, and corner bowls cost several times more. Therefore, do not rush to throw away your old bathtub; it is better to return it to its attractive appearance through restoration.
Common damage
Before restoring a bathtub, you need to understand what damage is typical for cast iron models, as well as what causes them. Every experienced master will say that the most vulnerable point of cast iron products is the enamel, which over time loses its original appearance. The most common damage to cast iron washing containers are:
Please note that before restoring a cast iron bathtub, you must carefully assess its condition, note all existing defects, and then select the best way and the material with which it is better to perform restoration. It will not succeed if there is through damage on it.
Re-enamelling
When people wonder how to restore a cast iron bathtub at home, the first thing that comes to mind is re-enamelling the inside of the container. This is a rather complex, labor-intensive and painstaking process that allows you to update the product without major costs. For re-enamelling, moisture-resistant epoxy enamel is used, which gives a stable, long-lasting result if the technology of use is followed:
Important! Complete polymerization and hardening of epoxy enamel occurs within 5-7 days, during which the bath cannot be used. In addition, during the restoration of a container for washing in this way, a sharp, chemical odor is released, so you can only work in a respirator.
Restoration with liquid acrylic
You can quickly and effectively repair a cast iron bathtub at home using liquid acrylic. Thanks to the unique texture and consistency of this modern polymer, restoration of the enamel layer is faster and easier than using epoxy enamel. Acrylic compounds consist of 2 components - acrylic itself and a hardener. The ingredients of the mixture are combined and then thoroughly mixed until a fluid, plastic mass is obtained. Restoration of cast iron products occurs as follows:
Important! In order for a restored cast iron plumbing fixture to last longer, it is necessary to follow the acrylic drying technology. Polymerization of this polymer lasts 36-48 hours, during which contact of the coating with water or dust should be limited.
Repair with acrylic liner
If the surface of a cast iron washing container is in disrepair, if most of the enamel surface is covered with damage, it is problematic to properly repair it using epoxy enamel or liquid acrylic. To restore the appearance of heavily damaged products, a more radical method is used - installing an acrylic liner. In this case, restoration occurs as follows:
Remember that the cost of an acrylic liner for a cast iron bathtub is higher than restoring an old cast iron bowl with liquid acrylic or epoxy enamel. But using the insert allows you to repair products with through holes and a heavily damaged surface.
Video instruction