Renovating a bathroom is a long and expensive undertaking. That is why we try to install beautiful and reliable equipment, which will serve trouble-free for many years and will not require replacement or repair. But even the highest quality plumbing fixtures lose their attractiveness over time - subtle but gradually increasing cracks and dangerous chips may appear on the surface of the bathtub, the bowl itself darkens, acquiring a dirty yellow tint, and the enamel loses its smoothness. There are two ways out of this situation - replace the bathtub with a new one or restore it. The first way will significantly burden your budget and will require several weeks to re-equip the bathroom, the second way is a more economical solution, and the restoration of the bowl takes much less time. So, what is a bathtub restoration at home?
Bathroom restoration methods
If you decide to restore the surface of the bowl yourself, then first you should choose the option that suits you. Now applied three restoration methods:
- two-component enamel coating;
- pouring liquid acrylic;
- installation acrylic liner.
Each solution has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. But before you begin restoration, you need to carefully prepare the surface of the bathtub. The final result depends on this stage of work: high-quality pre-treatment ensures that the new coating will last a long time, whereas illiterately conducted preparatory activities will lead to rapid wear of the restored surface.
We are preparing
Before starting work, prepare the tools and tools you will need:
- abrasive cleaning powder;
- hard brush;
- sandpaper;
- degreaser or solvent;
- brush with soft bristles;
- a towel or lint-free cloth;
- protective materials and accessories (polyethylene for covering nearby objects, masking tape, rubber gloves, preferably a respirator).
If there are places on the surface of the bath where there is already rust, then also prepare a means to remove it.
Now get to work, paying attention to every centimeter of the bathtub.
- Clean the whole bowl using powder and brush. Apply to rusty areas special remedy, wait a while and wipe the surface well.
- Without rinsing off the cleanser, sand the surface with sandpaper until marks from the powder appear. If you have Sander, then use it - it will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to complete this stage faster. Do not forget that the entire structure should be sanded, including the external parts.
- After finishing sanding, rinse the bathtub. Make sure that even the smallest particles are not left in it. Dry the surface and apply solvent or degreaser.
- After removing the composition, fill the bath hot water for 10-15 minutes, then drain the water and wipe well with a towel or non-woven cloth that is lint-free and does not leave marks.
At this step, you can get rid of noticeable enamel defects and overgrown cracks. If there is such damage on the bowl, then apply putty to it, and after drying, sand it using sandpaper. Again, remove all debris and go over the surface with solvent again.
After you are sure that the bathtub is clean, cover the faucet with plastic wrap, protect all surfaces adjacent to the bowl with masking tape, disassemble the siphon and be sure to place a container under the drain hole into which excess new coating will drain. Now your bathtub is completely ready for restoration.
Restoring with two-component enamel
Restoring a bathtub using enamel is an inexpensive and uncomplicated method. It must be taken into account that compositions for preparing enamel are quite caustic and have an unpleasant odor, Therefore, it is worth using a respirator. Also be sure to wear rubber gloves.
Mix the enamel and hardener according to the instructions. The finished composition has a consistency like paint, so it will not be difficult to work. Cooked cover the entire surface with the mixture, using a brush. First, go through horizontal strokes, then vertical ones. When you have finished applying the first coat, pause for 10-15 minutes and begin to coat the tub a second time without waiting for the previous coat to dry completely. Pay special attention to bottom treatment- it is in this area that the coating experiences the greatest load.
A sprayer makes the process of applying enamel easier. If you have such a device, then use it, but also be careful and make sure that there are no areas not covered with enamel.
After the coating is completely completed, you need to leave the bath for 5-7 days until the enamel completely hardens. During this time, it is advisable to ensure that the bathroom is clean and avoid contact with any solid particles, drops of water or other liquids on the surface. If these conditions are met, you will receive a new smooth bowl, with rich color and soft shine. A bathtub restored with two-component enamel will serve you for several years.
Restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic
Liquid acrylic (glass) is convenient way update the bath. Stakryl is also a two-component composition, the mixture is prepared immediately before application. Unlike enamel stakryl does not have an unpleasant odor. The material is suitable for the restoration of both acrylic bathtubs and bowls made of other materials; in particular, restoration is widespread cast iron bath liquid acrylic, which allows you not to give up the advantages of traditional cast iron, but to make the bathroom modern and more practical.
A few words should be said about the glass itself. His Chemical properties allow you to create a fairly dense coating on the surface 4-6 mm thick. During the application process, the composition does not spread, but remains viscous, so distributing it throughout the bowl is very easy. The glass hardens slowly, which means it can be spread over the corners of the bathtub without haste, and if any shortcomings are identified, they can be easily corrected.
Let us remind you that liquid acrylic is used to treat an already prepared surface. After mixing the compositions in accordance with the instructions, you need to pour not a large number of the resulting mixture into a container. Don't forget to place a bucket or jar under the drain hole to catch the excess. Next, part of the mixture should be poured onto the upper edge of the bowl; when the mixture, flowing down, reaches approximately the middle, you can begin to move along the side, pouring liquid acrylic on it. When the mixture in the container runs out, add a new portion and continue. After going around the entire perimeter of the bath, repeat the process, but now start not from the sides, but from the middle of the bowl. Don't save glass- the excess amount will flow into the jar under the drain, and the resulting coating will be dense and smooth. If you notice that the mixture is bubbling, simply go over this area with a spatula. After completing the treatment, leave the bath to dry completely. As a rule, this takes up to 4 days. This recovery technology makes it possible to obtain beautiful design, A its service life will be 10-15 years.
Updating using the insert
Inserting a new acrylic liner is a quick and easy way to get a new bathtub. In this case, it will not be possible to completely restore the bathtub with your own hands, since The liner is produced only at the factory on an individual order. But any adult can easily insert it on their own; the main thing is to follow the sequence of actions and be careful.
First, the bath is cleaned and degreased according to the algorithm described above. Then the places where the drain and overflow holes will be located are marked on the new bowl. It will be very convenient to do this in the following way: on a structure requiring restoration, a coloring material is applied to the drainage and overflow areas. It can be paint, but you can also use toothpaste, which is always in the bathroom. Then the liner is inserted into the bowl, pressed tightly and then removed. On the reverse side you will see prints exactly in those places where there should be holes, which are drilled to create a new drain and overflow.
Now the old one the surface should be treated with sealant and foam, Moreover, the compositions must be applied to the bottom, walls, and sides of the bathroom. Next, without delay, you need to insert the insert into old bath and press it well. As a rule, the liner is made in such a size that it can be inserted into the old bowl with little effort, this should be taken into account. After the liner is installed, you can stand in the bathtub in the place where the drain is located, after removing your shoes, and slowly walk to the side along the entire bottom - this will ensure a complete fit. The walls must be pressed well with your hands, making sure that they too fell into place. If you see excess adhesive or foam on the sides, simply remove them. Create a drain and overflow hole using old or new equipment, plug the drain and fill the bathtub with water. This step cannot be ignored, otherwise the foam may swell when hardening and cause deformation of the liner. After 12-24 hours the water drains. Your updated bathtub is ready for use. Manufacturers of earbuds claim that they retain their properties for 10 years.
Which bathtub restoration is best?
If your bathtub really needs restoration, then you will have to think about the choice of technology. It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of which bathtub restoration is better. If you have time and can go a week without using the bathroom, then give preference to inexpensive two-component enamel. If you want to get a higher quality coating, then your choice is liquid acrylic. If you don’t have time to wait and are ready to allocate funds for restoration, then choose an acrylic liner. Let us add that no matter which method you choose, in the future you will need pay attention to the bath, Do not wash it with abrasive or aggressive agents and carefully care for the coating, promptly removing all dirt.
Separately, it should be added that restoring a bathtub using the described methods is only suitable for those cases where the coating does not have significant defects. If your plumbing fixtures already have very noticeable cracks or chips near the drain, or the bowl is deformed, then restoration will not help you; in such situations, the only way out is to buy a new bathtub.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 4 minutes
Over time, any plumbing fixtures wear out and lose their original appearance. Rust, chips, scratches, cracks, loss of shine and whiteness are the inevitable consequences of daily use and improper care. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can restore a decent appearance to old plumbing fixtures. In order for the bathtub renovation to take place with the least amount of money and effort, you need to have a good understanding of the algorithm for this procedure at home, understand how to restore a bathtub, how to paint the inside of the bathtub, and what products to choose.
There are three ways to restore your bathtub yourself. Depending on its initial state, you can choose one of them:
- Enamelling.
- Restoration using liquid acrylic.
- Installing the liner.
Bathtub enameling
Enameling a bathtub with your own hands is a feasible procedure for any owner. To understand how to restore the enamel of a bathtub, you need to pay attention to the condition of the container.
Repair of cast iron or steel bath using enamel is justified if there are no deep chips and cracks. Otherwise, enamel, even applied in 2–4 layers, will not hide serious damage.
How to restore a cast iron bathtub yourself at home? When choosing what to paint the inside of the bathtub with, preference should be given to high-quality epoxy enamel from trusted manufacturers, guided by the following criteria:
- Selecting the method of applying enamel: brush, roller, aerosol or bulk method. The most acceptable are application by brush or pouring, since a roller can impart an unnecessary porous texture, and aerosol spraying can only be used in case of repair of individual areas.
- Complete set for coating restoration. It is convenient to purchase a kit that includes everything you need for repairs - enamel, auxiliary components, tools for application and compositions for preparing the bathtub.
Important! High quality epoxy enamel Thanks to its thick consistency, it can create a smooth, even surface and repair small chips. But it is worth understanding that do-it-yourself repair Baths at home are inferior to the industrial method of applying enamel: there may be a change in the color of the new enamel, increased vulnerability to shocks and chips, and limitations in care products.
Self-enamelling of a bathtub occurs in two stages: preparatory work and application of enamel.
Applying enamel
How to restore the enamel of a bathtub becomes clearer after reading the instructions for the purchased enamel composition. Important points here are the following:
- Preparation of the composition. Follow the instructions to prepare the enamel, combining the active component and hardener in the required proportions.
- Coating with the first layer of enamel. Cover the surface with a thin layer of enamel using a hard wide brush, starting from the top, gradually going down into the depths of the bowl. You can especially carefully walk along the bottom of the bathtub and the drain as the most worn places.
- Applying a second layer of enamel. A new enamel layer is applied after some time specified in the instructions. After this, it can be left to dry for 15 minutes.
- Correction of smudges. All detected enamel stains must be smeared with a brush, moving up and down and from side to side. This must be done quickly before the enamel dries.
- Reapplying enamel. To achieve a more reliable result, increase the strength of the enamel and protect against new chips, cast iron or metal container You can paint over it with one or two more layers of enamel.
How to restore the enamel of a bathtub if the chips are deep? It is necessary to repair the chips with putty, polish and degrease. All chips and cracks must be carefully repaired:
- Using sandpaper soaked in water, polish the edges of the chip;
- degrease cracks with solvent or white spirit;
- dry the surface;
- apply enamel.
After enameling, the bath should dry for 7–8 days. Proper care behind the bathtub should exclude the use of abrasive detergents.
Restoration using liquid acrylic
Repairing a bathtub with liquid acrylic is an easier process at home than enameling. Acrylic is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress and is unpretentious in work. Using liquid acrylic you can get a beautiful smooth surface that is resistant to temperature changes and hard water.
Because of the way the acrylic is applied, this method is sometimes called "pour bath". Do-it-yourself self-filling bathtub - suitable economical way renewal of cast iron products.
Acrylic is often used trademark“Stakryl” is a two-component high-density enamel, including a base and a hardener.
Covering a bathtub with acrylic yourself consists of the following steps:
- Surface preparation. This process is similar to preparing for enameling: you need to clean the bathtub from the old coating, degrease it, and seal the cracks.
- Application of acrylic. Having combined the components according to the instructions, pour acrylic from a convenient container in a thin stream onto the side of the bathtub, pushing it under the edge of the tile. The acrylic layer should be approximately 4–6 mm and flow down to the middle of the container. Moving along the side, you need to pour acrylic evenly. After applying acrylic along the outer edge, continue to pour it into the middle of the container, gradually narrowing the circles and moving in a spiral. The remaining mixture flows into the prepared container through the drain.
- Drying. Liquid acrylic can dry from 6 to 24 hours. But it’s still better not to rush to use the updated bathroom right away, but wait a few days.
Restoration using an acrylic liner
The third method of repair is to install a liner or “bath within a bath.” It is impossible to make a liner at home; it is made industrially and is an insert that follows the shape of the bathtub itself. It's easy and quick way repair the bath yourself. But it also has disadvantages:
- Installation requires removal of the bottom row of tiles to secure the edge of the insert.
- Inability to repeat the exact shape of a cast iron bathtub with a liner. This is explained by the fact that cast iron is a complex material for molding and has different depressions and protrusions, which, when installing the liner, provoke the formation of voids. All this negatively affects the quality of the new bath.
For you, dear residents and guests of the city. We are pleased to offer a bathtub restoration service in Moscow. Any shapes and sizes, cast iron and iron.
On this page you can see what your restored bath will look like. Also here are the current prices for Moscow and its suburbs: Zelenograd, New Moscow, Troitsky, Khimki, Solnechnogorsk,
Your benefits
Why should you entrust the restoration of your bathtub enamel to us?
- Financial discipline - The price is strictly fixed.
- The price includes travel and labor.
- Double surface cleaning.
- Free leveling and strengthening of the bottom.
- Puttying of chips and cracks is carried out free of charge.
- Tinting is carried out at the request of the customer and is also free.
- Experienced workers from 5 years, strictly Slavic.
- Prompt completion of work in 2.5-3 hours.
Our works:
Bathtub enamel.
Bathroom restoration.
Restoring bathtub enamel.
Bathroom update.
Restoration of bathtubs.
Restoration of bathtubs Moscow: price
Cost of enameling and restoration of bathtubs in Moscow
| Type of restoration (work + material) | Price ₽: |
|---|---|
| Filling bath | from |
| 1.2 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3200 |
| 1.5 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3500 |
| 1.7 Size. Restoration with liquid acrylic | 3600 |
| Restoring a shower tray with liquid acrylic | 2900 |
| Cleaning up the old layer | 600 |
| Restoration of a sink with liquid acrylic when ordering a bathtub+sink | 500 |
| 3 year guarantee on all work done by the master. | |
| Enameling with a brush. | Price ₽: |
| 1.2 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3100 |
| 1.5 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3200 |
| 1.7 Size. Bathtub enamel | 3300 |
| Enameling shower tray | 2500 |
| Cleaning a previously painted bathtub | 600 |
| 1 year guarantee on all work by the master | |
| Full price list for our services | |
This price table is relevant for Moscow,
Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow
Our portfolio
We understand that we perform a specific service. Unlike a physical product, which can be examined in detail before purchasing. Feel it in the store. Restoration with acrylic, as well as with enamel, is done in Moscow at home. And you can’t put it on display... Therefore, this section has been created where you can see what the final result will look like. Everything is done by our employees. There are examples made in Moscow. Images are enlarged by clicking on them with the mouse.
Restoring bathtub enamel.
Self-leveling enamel, the strongest material today.
Restoring the surface of a cast iron bathtub. Since the time the house was built, it was installed with a backward slope, and now the water does not drain completely, constantly forming a puddle at the bottom. It regularly had to be “raked” by hand. Otherwise, the drying water formed a rim of limescale, which was very difficult to clean. The restoration of the bathtub enamel was carried out on site, without dismantling it and the adjacent tiles. Before restoring the surface of the bathtub, the dilapidated, “Soviet” drain siphon was replaced. We strongly recommend this procedure be performed whenever possible. Since there is a new drain siphon, the bathtub looks beautiful in the updated enamel. And the price for replacing the drain is quite reasonable, and cheaper than ordering it separately from plumbers. As for restoring the enamel of the bathtub, in such cases when the tap flows openly rusty water, we recommend restoring the bathtub with epoxy acrylic enamel NEM. In our studies, this material showed the highest acid resistance and resistance to impact and fracture.
Bathtub painting with acrylic coating.
All methods of painting bathtubs are possible.
The cast iron bathtub is a good and strong frame, weakness this is her enamel. It is she who becomes unusable over time. Washing with caustic detergents corroded the bottom and walls. You can buy a new one, spending a lot of money and time on it. Or you can simply paint the bathtub with acrylic enamel, without removing it, the price will be much lower, and the work time will only be a couple of hours. The result is again a smooth surface, shine and gloss, which is easy to clean with a household sponge.
In the photo there is just such an option:
Liquid acrylic was used to paint the bathtub. Made in Germany. The advantage of this acrylic is that the surface can subsequently be washed with acidic agents. The drain has also been replaced. If it is removable and to it open access, we strongly recommend doing this. Although it is permissible to paint the bathtub without removing the siphon.
Bathtub enamel.
When is it better than buying a new one?
Enameled bathtub, at the time of order it was 6 years old. As the client said, initially he had a good-quality one, cast iron, with smooth sides. Over time, it became rough; he decided not to enamel the bathtub and replaced it with a modern iron one. To prevent the enameled iron bathtub from rattling as water poured in, he foamed the space between the bottom and the floor. I thought it would last a long time. She stayed with him for 6 and a half years. He no longer wanted to start repairs again. It was decided to order the service “enamelling with liquid acrylic”. He was right.
Restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic.
The optimal choice for areas with particularly contaminated water.
Restoration of bathtubs in Moscow. The plumbing is covered with a red coating that is very difficult to wash off. The customer hesitated for a long time about painting, pouring, or even replacing it with a new one. There is no point in changing it if rusty liquid flows from the tap, since the factory coating quickly wears out from aggressive detergents. The surface can be restored with any material, but in this case the bathtub was restored with liquid acrylic; this simplifies its cleaning in the future and increases the service life of the restored enamel.
Bathroom update.
Bathtub renovation with liquid acrylic.
The bathtub enamel was renewed using the “Pouring” method, that is, it was filled with liquid acrylic white. The ferruginous water left a rusty surface on the surface, yellow plaque and it had to be washed with chemicals, which in turn corroded the surface layer. Refreshing the bathtub with liquid acrylic will correct roughness on the surface and cover up any stains from plaque. You can click on the photo to enlarge.
Good to know…
The capital and Moscow region are the most large area our country.
Lots of baths. Many of them are very old, there are many people who want to update. Naturally, there are many companies on this basis. Offering services for their restoration in our city. Some offer restoration with enamels, believing that acrylic is a waste of money, while others, on the contrary, carry out renovation with liquid acrylic or install liners and also, at any opportunity, insist that painting with enamel is not serious and will not last long.
Many people know the saying “every frog praises its own swamp.” And one can only be happy for those restorers who so zealously protect their business. But, as you know, people are not interested in the ideological beliefs of the masters, but in the most rational method of restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic and enamels in your area. No matter how restorers claim, there is no clear panacea. Sometimes it is more rational to do the classic service “Enameling of bathtubs”, and sometimes it is better to do restoration with liquid acrylic.
And, to help you figure it out, it would be useful to read an article about the current methods of restoring bathtubs. About the pros and cons of these methods and how bathtubs are updated. This way you can answer for yourself the question of what is better, covering the bathtub with enamel or acrylic. Also, for clarity and understanding of what the restored surface will look like, we are posting several examples: see the photos in our portfolio.
What to do if the bathtub is no longer presentable, but there is no opportunity or desire to install a new one ( major renovation almost inevitable when replacing)? There are several technologies that allow you to old bath make a new one - update the coating. Restoring a bathtub is possible with your own hands, you just need to choose which specific method you will use.
Methods for restoring a bathtub, their advantages and disadvantages
Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can be done in three ways:
- painting with special enamel;
- liquid (self-leveling acrylic);
- insert of an acrylic liner (bathtub in the bathroom).
If we talk about doing the work yourself, then most often the bathtub coating is restored by painting or poured acrylic. Just the cost of an acrylic liner is about 80% of total amount, which companies charge for this procedure, so rarely does anyone want to understand the intricacies. In addition, when self-installation you lose your warranty. However, using this method you can update the bathtub with your own hands.
Enamel painting
Now about the pros and cons of each method. Painting with enamel is the cheapest option, but also the most short-lived. This coverage lasts for several years - from 3 to 5. Specific figure depends on thoroughness preliminary preparation surface and paint quality.
The painting process is not the easiest - to obtain good result several applications are required (at least three), and each of them has to be “worked on”, removing sagging, drips, and smoothing out unevenness. All this takes time and patience. But how a budget option, the method is not bad. After the paint begins to peel off, it is removed (heated construction hairdryer, remove with a spatula) and, after treating the surface, the bath can be painted.
The enamel composition has a very sharp, persistent odor that lasts quite a long time. It is better to work in a respirator, but it is advisable not to open the doors - the paint will dry faster and it will be more difficult to correct.
By brand of paint that is used to paint the bathroom. First of all, this is Tikkurila REAFLEX 50 (Tikkurila Reaflex). Two-component enamel. Not cheap, but high quality. Reviews about its use are positive. In principle, the quality of the coating depends on how accurately the proportions are observed when mixing the components. You can't pour less or more. It will only get worse.
There are other enamels - organosilicon enamels, on which it is written “for baths”. Others cannot be used, as they can release harmful substances when in contact with warm water.
Filling bath
Bathtub restoration using self-leveling acrylic is becoming increasingly popular. This is a two-component composition that is mixed immediately before use. The cost of the set is about $50 (more or less depends on the size of the bowl). As in the previous option, the durability of the coating depends on the quality of surface preparation. And it should not have any dirt, grease stains, and the surface itself must be smooth and rough. The process of applying the composition is simple - it is simply poured in a thin stream from a small container, and it levels itself out. On the walls the layer is thinner, on the bottom it is thicker. An ideal state of affairs for operation. If everything is done correctly, such a coating will last up to 5-7 years, although manufacturers say that the service life is more than 10 years, some even say 15 years.
Filling bathtub - it’s not in vain that they say so. Acrylic is simply poured onto the sides
In addition to durability, this material also pleases with its lack of odor. Or rather, there is a smell, but it is very weak, almost unnoticeable, so it is comfortable to work with.
About materials that can be used to restore a bathtub at home. There are mainly reviews about two brands: Stakril and PlastAll. Both materials have a good reputation (if done correctly). There are a large number of cheaper brands of liquid acrylic on the market, but they rarely have hygienic certificates. And without documents it’s better not to take risks.
Bath liner
The advantage of the “bath in a bath” option is the durability of the coating - up to 15 years, but the guarantee is usually given for 2-3 years. However, not everything is so simple with this method. Installing an acrylic liner is both easier and more difficult at the same time. Firstly, there are only so many liners for standard bathrooms, and not everyone has them. Secondly, they cannot be installed on thin-walled metal or “light” cast iron - the metal is thin and moves when loaded, which is why the liner quickly separates from the base and bursts. Since these are the specimens that most often have to be restored, companies simply “forget” about this point.
There are three more negative aspects to using the “bath in a bath” method. They are not necessarily present, but they can be present and lead to damage to the liner, so it is advisable to be aware of them. So, what can negatively affect the service life of the acrylic liner in the bathroom:
- The molded liner has an ideal geometry, but the bathtubs, most often, have deviations. In places of these inconsistencies, cracks usually form.
- Acrylic sits on a special two-component foam. Although it holds the load better than construction material, it can still press down. In these places, voids form, and they lead to the appearance of cracks.
- In the places where the siphon and overflow are installed, two containers are connected. It is very important to carefully seal this joint. Firstly, because water will leak onto the floor, and secondly, it can flow into the voids, bloom there and spread the corresponding “aromas”.
In addition to all the installation nuances, it is important to choose a high-quality liner. And this is very difficult. Plumbing acrylic is expensive. That’s why the liners are sometimes made very thin or from cheap porous and fragile acrylic, sometimes from coated fiberglass.
The essence of the “bath in a bath” method
The thicker the acrylic layer in the liner, the higher the price. In cheap liners the thickness is very small - 0.5-1 mm, in average quality ones it is 2-3 mm, and it is very difficult to find an liner with 4 mm acrylic, but they are the most durable. When calling companies, ask about the thickness of the liner at the bottom. If they say that it is 5-6 mm or even more, they are deceiving you. They just don’t do that and there’s nothing else to talk about. The second thing you need to inquire about is the presence of a hygiene certificate. Sometimes the inserts are molded from counterfeit material, but it is very short-lived - it cracks after a few months. There are no documents for such goods, although the “leftists” can provide them. But, still... The next stage of quality control is visual. When visiting a company where you plan to purchase a plastic liner for your bathroom, inspect several pieces. They should be perfectly even, and the color should be snowy white. Not greyish, greenish or yellowish. Snow white. No shades. In this case, you can hope that the bathroom he restored will serve for a long time.
Preparation
Preparing the bathtub for restoration is important in any case. Even if you are going to install an insert. There, too, good adhesion (adhesion) to the foam is necessary. And in the case of using enamel or acrylic, preparation plays a very important role.
If you look at the description of the work of companies involved in the restoration of bathtubs, they preparatory stage- remove the drain and overflow, go over the entire surface well with sandpaper and abrasive powder, wash and dry. If there are any, repair the chips with automotive putty. Sometimes they add that it is necessary to degrease the surface with a solvent. That's all, then enamel is applied or acrylic is poured. The entire work takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.
When studying reviews about self-restoration The picture emerges differently - there are many more stages and preparation often drags on for a day. There are two ways. The first is to delete upper layer using a grinder and flap sandpaper (remove the top layer of enamel, and do not clean it down to the metal). After removing the dust, you can paint.
The second way is to remove contaminants using acids, alkalis, and solvents. Both methods have been tried and work equally well. It is up to you to choose what is better - dust and sound when processed with an angle grinder, or odors when processed with chemicals.
Here's what to do before restoring enamel using chemical method cleansing:
Application of self-leveling acrylic
Restoring a bathtub using self-leveling acrylic is perhaps the most easy way update it (albeit not the cheapest), you just need to know a few subtleties.
The first point concerns the thickness and temperature of the material. For a normal polymerization process, a temperature of 22-26°C is required. In order for liquid acrylic to spread normally, it must stand in a warm room for at least a day. During this time, the composition will reach the required temperature. There is another option - put it in a bucket or basin with warm water (not hot, but warm). Only in this case is there a chance of overheating. Then it will be too fluid, the layer on the bathtub will be much thinner than required. So we try to bring it exactly to the required temperature.
The second point is the absence of any drafts. Good masters work in enclosed spaces. They even sand the enamel with a grinder or treat it with acid. They do this in respirators, which is what we advise you to do. But they need to hurry, because for them time is money, and the owner has nowhere to rush. If you are doing the restoration of the bathroom coating for yourself, you can do all dusty or “smelly” work at open doors and ventilation turned on, then close the doors and wait until the temperature reaches the desired limit of 22°C or slightly higher.
The third point is to prevent the ingress of water droplets and dust. While the room is heating up, you need to wrap all the taps with polyethylene, completely eliminating the possibility of water getting in. In addition, it is necessary to wrap the shelves, heated towel rail or other devices and objects that are located above the bathtub with fabric. This is necessary to prevent the formation of condensation, drops of which can damage the surface of the uncured filling bath. Also: during work and polymerization (from two to five days), the doors must be kept closed. This way you maintain the required temperature and also reduce the possibility of dust, debris and insects getting onto the surface. It’s very disappointing when a midge or fly lands on a beautiful white surface. It is almost impossible to remove it without leaving traces. After complete hardening, you will have to sand it and fill it again, but the mark usually remains - there is not enough qualifications.
When the temperature in the bathroom has risen to 22°C, film or paper is placed under the outer edge of the bathroom, and a clean container is placed under the drain hole into which excess material will be drained. If the edge of the bathroom is tiled, so as not to get dirty, it is covered with masking tape, making sure that the edge is smooth.
For further work you will need a regular or rubber spatula about 10 cm wide, plastic container volume 500-600 ml (a beer glass will do). A jar with heated to desired temperature Open with acrylic, carefully remove the remaining acrylic from the lid with a spatula and place it in a jar. Then the material is also cleaned from the walls. All walls must be clean so that there is no acrylic left on them that is not mixed with the hardener.
The hardener that comes with the acrylic is poured into the jar and mixed for 15 minutes. You can stir with a planed wooden stick or a drill attachment at low speed. It’s safer to use a stick - you’re guaranteed not to damage the can or splash the material. If you decide to use a drill, the nozzle should not have burrs or sharp protrusions, and the speed should be as low as possible. When stirring, work the bottom and edges well.
Leave the stirred naive bath acrylic for 10 minutes, then stir again for 5 minutes. You must work either without a shirt or in clothes that will not touch the edges of the bathtub.
We put the jar in the bath, take a container, pour the composition into it from the jar. We start pouring from the glass onto the side from the far edge of the bathtub, going around it on three sides. The composition slowly flows down, enveloping the surface, and is distributed in an even layer.
It is impossible to pour onto the side exactly under the wall, and the edge looks ugly. Take a spatula and carefully distribute the composition, covering the entire surface. It will level itself out.
Having poured three sides along the side, we begin to pour just above the place where the old coating is visible. We pass again on three sides. Usually two or three passes are enough to cover the entire surface; in some places you can make slight adjustments with a spatula, directing the material to the desired place.
Fill the near side last. It starts to drip, so work carefully. The process is the same. First at the top, then a couple of times a little lower.
The finishing touches. We move the corner of the spatula along the bottom of the bathtub in a zigzag motion. This will help distribute the composition evenly and avoid sagging. Finally, use a spatula to remove any drops that have hung there from the outer edge of the edge (just run the spatula blade along the edge).
The bath is left for 48 hours. After this, you can remove the tape, film, paper that was placed around. That's it, the restoration of the bathtub with your own hands is completed, but you can use it in another three days.
This is a bathtub “before” and “after” restoration with poured acrylic
Enameling a bath at home
About good compositions for enameling it was described above, so it is advisable to use them. There are instructions for use on the can, but the practical rules are the same as for regular painting. Only the preparation is unusual, but it has already been written about.
Some companies suggest priming the surface before applying enamel to the bathtub. If there is such an opportunity, this should be done. The primer is applied in the same way as enamel, after drying (the period is indicated on the can), sanded until smooth, then cleaned of dust, washed, and dried. Next, the enamel is applied.
To distribute the composition you can use good brush made of natural bristles or a small foam roller. To prevent bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for a day and remove everything that comes out with your hands. There are no problems with the roller.
A hardener is poured into the main composition. Measure exactly as recommended, no more, no less. Stir well, giving Special attention bottom and walls. When using a roller, some of the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the tub - this makes it easier to work with. Use a brush to take the composition from the jar. They try to apply the enamel or primer evenly, without leaving unpainted areas or streaks.
After priming, sanding is required, followed by cleaning from dust, and after applying enamel, you need to look at the results. If everything is smooth, you can stop there. If appearance you are not satisfied, you need to sand it again. smoothing out the unevenness and painting again. Sometimes up to 4 layers are necessary.
Self-installation of acrylic liner (insert)
Restoring a bathroom using this technology has its own peculiarity: if the side of the bathtub is tiled, it must be removed. Not the most pleasant moment. You can do without removing the tiles if the side of the bathroom protrudes from underneath it by at least 1 cm. Then the liner can be trimmed along the edge. Cut it with a grinder or jigsaw along the marked line
When removing tiles, they are trimmed along the wall using a grinder with a diamond blade. Then, using a puncher, the edging is gradually beaten off. Next, remove the siphon, clean the drain and overflow holes from dirt. We measure their position in the bathroom - the location must be transferred to the liner. The match must be perfect. In the marked places, holes are drilled using a crown of the appropriate diameter placed on a drill.
Let's proceed directly to installing the acrylic liner:
- In the bathtub, around the drain and overflow holes, apply a solid strip acrylic sealant. We don't skimp on the sealant - it will prevent leaks.
- Using special foam (FOME-PRO) we apply stripes to the surface of the bathtub. On the bottom - 4-5 pieces lengthwise and transverse stripes in increments of 5-7 cm. On the side surfaces, with an approach to the side, there are three stripes in the corners, and on the sidewalls they make a cage with a pitch of 5-7 cm. Two stripes are laid on the side. In general, the foam should be distributed evenly.
At the bottom we make a “mesh” of special foam
- We insert the liner from above, trying not to displace the foam on the sides. You need to lower it in the center, carefully.
- Smooth the liner along the entire length of the sides, walls and bottom. The bottom must be pressed especially carefully.
- Silicone will come out of the drain holes. We delete it.
- Special grates are installed on the drain and overflow - they have a special fastening, since the thickness of the bathtub has become much larger.
- Filling the bath cold water, leave for 8-12 hours - the time of foam polymerization.
- We install the sides. They are placed on polyurethane foam, the joints are sealed with sealant.
- The bath is ready.
It’s no wonder that cast iron bathtubs are extremely popular among buyers. Even though the market is filled with acrylic and steel taxes, cast iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but are also strengthening their position. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bathtub is durable, and at the same time it retains heat well. However, over time, the coating of a cast iron bathtub wears out and chips, stains and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can only be two options for solving the problem - restoring the enamel cast iron bath or buying a new one.
If we talk about purchasing, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:
- in addition to the cost of a new bathtub, the dismantling of the old model and its disposal should be taken into account;
- the costs of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
- restoration of cast iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such issues as installation and connection, because when restoring the enamel you will not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.
Restoration of cast iron bathtubs
If you are not used to wasting money and time, you will certainly be interested in such a service as restoring cast iron bathtubs. Modern technologies and innovative materials make it possible to quickly return the bathtub to its radiant appearance and presentability without special expenses.
Our advantages
High-quality materials from Germany direct from the manufacturer
The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours
We work without prepayment, under a contract. Responsible approach
Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years
Warranty up to 5 years! Material service life 15 years
Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support
Price for restoration of cast iron bathtubs
Bath 120 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
RUB 3,800
3,500 rub.
Bath 150 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
4,000 rub.
3,700 rub.
Bath 170 cm.
- German quality.
- Drying time: 20 hours.
- Service life 15 years!
4,200 rub.
RUB 3,900
Restoring enamel on a cast iron bathtub
Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bathtub has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. Unique technology restoring the enamel on a cast iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.
By contacting us, you can be sure that:
- all work on restoring a cast iron bathtub will be carried out high level;
- You will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
- the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
- the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.
Call us and make sure that restoring the enamel on your bathtub is quick, simple and very profitable!
Additional services
| Name of service | Price |
| Installing an acrylic baseboard on the side of a bathtub | 1300 rub. |
| Installing our screen under the bathtub on aluminum frame(regardless of the length of the bath) | 2200 rub. |
| Installation of a new siphon (re-visit of the technician 24 hours after drying. New siphon, corrugations, cuffs, connection + warranty) | 1250 rub. |
| Installation of acrylic liner 150 cm. | 4000 rub. |
| Installation of acrylic liner 170 cm. | 4200 rub. |
| Call a measurer for consultation and correct measurement of the bathtub | 500 rub. |
| Retaining the old piping (siphon), replacing only the drain grate with a new one | 150 rub. |
| Dismantling old cast iron trim | 400-600 rub. |
| Removing the plastic trim | For free |
| Cleaning non-factory enamel | from 400 to 800 rub. |
| Color color | 400 rub. |
| Removing chips on a bathtub | 150 rub. |