DIY bathroom renovation. Work order, selection of tools and selection of materials. Do-it-yourself budget bathroom renovation How to renovate a bathroom

If you decide to do a bathroom renovation yourself, it is important to know the sequence of bathroom renovations. One stage must follow the other, since violation of the order of actions leads to errors that appear during operation.

Preparation

Before you start renovating your bathroom, you need to decide on the scope of work and roughly calculate the costs that await you. The easiest way is to make a list of questions. By answering them, you will have an idea of the work that is needed. Here sample list questions:

Only after you answer these questions can you roughly estimate how much the repair will cost you. But this is still without finishing materials.

Choice of finishes

The next stage of repair bathroom- selection of finishing materials. The most common option is tiles on the walls and floors. This finishing method is popular because it is durable and easy to maintain. But the cost of such finishing is high. There are cheaper options, but no less interesting. For example, on the floor you can or. The walls can be painted, covered with special wallpaper,...

Not fewer options for ceiling decoration. The standard finishing method is a bleached or painted ceiling. But recently, suspended or tension systems. They allow you to hide communications, although they take away a few centimeters of height. Bathroom ceilings can be:

Depending on the type of ceiling, the sequence of repairs in the bathroom changes. When choosing stretch ceiling, it is done last. After everyone else Finishing work finished, doors installed. A plasterboard ceiling, as well as a bleached or painted plastered ceiling, is finished simultaneously with the walls or a little earlier - so that the whitewash or paint does not get on the walls. Suspension systems(except for drywall) are collected after finishing the walls.

Drawing up a plan and procedure

Once you have decided on all these issues, have chosen plumbing and finishing materials, begin to draw up a plan. After all the old finishing has been removed, the dimensions of the room are measured to the nearest centimeter and the dimensions are transferred to the plan. On this plan, all communications are drawn, the distances to all their exit points are indicated, and plumbing fixtures and furniture are drawn to scale. After all, the location of the water supply and sewerage outlets depends on the position of the plumbing and its size. The following is the work plan:

This step by step plan bathroom renovation. There is only one nuance: when to install the doors. Usually door frame installed after the walls are prepared for finishing. In this case, the wall decoration will fit closely to the box. This is important if platbands are not provided from the inside. Door leaf You can hang it later - after finishing all the “dirty” work or immediately, but protect it with thick plastic film. Otherwise, it is advisable to follow the sequence of renovations in the bathroom without changes.

Many home craftsmen do not know where to start renovating a bathroom and in what sequence to carry out such work. We have prepared detailed and understandable instructions.

The room in which we take water procedures is considered very specific. Serious humidity and temperature changes are constantly present here, and water flows in large volumes. It is clear that to renovate such a room it is necessary to select special materials that can withstand all negative influences. To decorate the room we are interested in, we usually choose:

plastic panels;
porcelain stoneware;
tiles (for finishing walls and floors).

These materials have the required qualities that allow them to be used in rooms where there is steam and high temperature.

Bathroom finishing plastic panels

In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere that promotes relaxation. This means that you need to carefully think through the design of this room and choose the right color scheme. Most often, bathrooms are designed in pastel colors, not irritating a person, but on the contrary, calming him nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing bathroom units with products in beige, blue, peach, and blue shades.

Thus, bathroom renovation should begin with drawing up a design project, selecting and purchasing the required materials. At this stage, you will need to provide for a lot of little things and purchase a lot of different products, from sewer pipes and adhesive for installing tiles to shut-off valves and a heated towel rail.

Now you need to decide on the scope of work and make a plan for completing it. The sequence of self-repair of a bathroom is usually as follows:

Preparing the room for renovations.
Analysis of the condition of the existing floor covering and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
Installation of sewer and water pipes.
Laying electrical wiring.
Plastering ceiling and wall surfaces, covering them with the selected material and insulating them.
Installation of an effective ventilation system.
Installation of sanitary equipment.

The given sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time on giving the room water procedures perfect look.

Where to start preparing the described room for its complete transformation with your own hands? Of course, from the dismantling of all plumbing fixtures installed in it, as well as furniture (if any), lighting fixtures, mirrors and hanging structures. If you do major renovation bathroom, be sure to remove the faucets and mixers.

Removal old tiles in the bathroom

After this, begin removing old finishing materials. Remove the cladding from the walls and ceiling, knock down the ceramic tiles (along with the layer of glue that held them in place), and wash off the paint. If you have a hammer drill, preparing your bathroom for a good renovation goes much faster - feel free to knock down anything that comes loose from the ceiling and walls. Your task is to get to the brick or panel wall masonry and floor slabs.

After such actions, it will be necessary to carefully treat the areas that you have “exposed” with primers. You should choose them wisely. Do not forget that now there are a variety of primers - bioprotective, hydrophobic, contact, increasing adhesion, strengthening. If you don’t know exactly what composition you need to purchase, be sure to consult a specialist. Real help in this matter is often provided by consultants from good construction stores.

The next step in preparing the bathroom is to inspect the flooring. When the old screed showed its best side during operation (for example, you forgot to turn off the water, it flowed for a couple of hours, and not a drop of moisture leaked to the neighbors below), leave it. If the screed has clearly served its purpose, it must be removed.

This operation is performed with a hammer drill and a chisel. These tools can also remove the previous cement backing under the tiles. Important point! If you do not touch the old screed, it is better to clean the substrate with a grinder equipped with a cup-shaped grinding wheel (usually called a diamond cup). The cost of such a device is quite high. But it will always be useful to a craftsman who does all the housework with his own hands.

Now you can sweep away all the dirt and debris and proceed directly to repair work.

sieved quartz sand;
cement M500 (you can also take M400);
PVA emulsion;
water.

The ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 4. The same amount of water needs to be mixed as cement. The most convenient way to form a screed with your own hands is using marker beacons. The mixture is applied in a layer of about 4–5 cm, rubbed building rule, after which it must be carefully smoothed with a polyurethane foam polisher or of stainless steel to perfect condition (no cracks, ripples or other defects). Very important! The screed made from sand and cement cannot be touched for 40 days. During this time, no work can be done in the bathroom.

Creating a new concrete floor screed

Waterproofing a room with high humidity is best done with materials made of polyester or aquaizol. Do not use regular waterproof film for these purposes. Lay the waterproofing material as carefully as possible; the joints between its individual parts are connected in two ways:

Construction hairdryer.
Adhesive mastic having a special composition.

Waterproofing is applied to the walls by 25–30 centimeters. Please note that the presence of cuts in the moisture-proof film is not allowed in the corners of the room. It’s better to bend the insulating material and make folds. But under no circumstances cut the film.

It is almost impossible to see open sewer pipelines in apartments these days. Such communications spoil the entire appearance of the bathroom and nullify all the designers’ tricks. Scoring walls to hide pipes is also not a solution. This procedure is very tedious, dusty and truly lengthy.

Installation of pipelines in the bathroom

For this reason, sewer pipes are now most often installed using a special method - they are run along the bottom in a bunch, and then masked with galvanized slopes. You can then easily glue tiles (cladding) onto the latter using silicone. The silicone composition is also used to attach the slope to the floor surface and to the wall.

Unfortunately, bathroom renovations cannot be completed without gating. In any case, you will need to make two grooves for cases when a separate faucet is installed on the washbasin, or one if a common faucet is used. One thing is reassuring - the length of the groove will be minimal. In addition, they are located vertically. Punching them with your own hands is relatively simple, which cannot be said about horizontal grooves.

For a heated towel rail, it is advisable to install metal-plastic pipes. It’s not worth looking for other options these days. Such pipe products are ideal for use. They can be easily bent, slanted, using transition fittings.

But for a cold water supply system in the bathroom they are more suitable polypropylene pipes(PPN). They are easily welded into a strong and reliable monolithic structure and then hide in the walls. It’s worth saying right away that it is advisable to purchase fittings for such pipes from solid plastic. It is not advisable to use metal reinforcement elements. They can leak at any time. But sealed plastic will never let water through.

Pipeline installation should begin with the installation of sewer pipes. Using sealant and seals, you will spend no more than one day on their assembly. After this, feel free to install polypropylene products for cold water and solder them. Be sure to blow foam into the pipes in the grooves. This way you will be sure that the pipeline will not fog up. And heat loss in this case will be significantly reduced. Follow the recommended sequence of piping installation, and your bathroom renovation will go faster.

Electrical wiring is carried out with a cable protected by a double insulating layer. It is advisable to place the wire in a metal or plastic corrugation. It is better to use a metal sheath, as it perfectly shields the wiring.

Having dealt with communications, proceed to processing wall surfaces. It is performed with two compositions – starting (it has increased tenacity) and finishing. The latter perfectly levels the treated surface. It is necessary to plaster from the ceiling to the floor.

Plastering walls in the bathroom

The following stages of repair work:

Insulation and ceiling covering. It is recommended to perform thermal insulation in the form of a cake consisting of two glass-magnesium sheets and insulation placed between them. The cladding can be made with clapboard (plastic) or laminated boards, which are fixed to the ceiling with construction silicone or durable mounting adhesive.
Laying tiles on the floor. The sequence of the operation is as follows: mount the products with glue, starting from the door, tap each tile with a hammer (rubber). All cut rows should be laid last and after the adhesive under the remaining rows has completely cured.
Wall covering. It is produced using plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, ordinary tiles.

The last stages of work are cleaning ventilation duct(or installation of a new one), installation of a sink, bathtub (shower stall), faucets, water meters. If you were able to complete all the previous operations, placing the plumbing will be easy for you. There is no special wisdom here.

Here, in principle, is the entire step-by-step plan for self-renovation of the bathroom. You just need to start implementing it and after a while you will enjoy the new look of your water treatment room.

Now it's time to renovate the bathroom. How to make a decision: outsource the work to specialists or try it yourself? Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is worth considering, because the price of professional work is at least 50% of the cost of purchased materials. Since renovating a bathroom and toilet (meaning qualitatively) is not a cheap “pleasure”.

First of all, you need to find out the prices construction companies, then make an estimate for the actual manual repair, and then draw conclusions. Let's take a little look at what materials and tools are required. Then we will draw final conclusions.

Materials

The choice of materials should be approached with the utmost care. Since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the materials must be appropriate. That is, used in the renovation of bathrooms or for exterior work. So what does it take to do a DIY bathroom renovation?

Wall tiles (tile). It has a slightly smaller size relative to the sexual one.
Floor tiles (porcelain tiles).
Laminate.
Mixture for masonry adhesive based, grout and crosses for gaps.
Self-leveling floor solution.
SM sheet (Glass magesite).
Floor grout (Thermo Plast)
Plastic pipes PPN (cold) and PPR (hot water). The latter have a reinforced vein.
Taps, adapters and fittings for pipes.
Sewerage, pipe Du-50.
PVA glue (emulsion)

Knowing what materials you will need, we measure the areas of the ceiling, walls, and floor. When purchasing tiles, you need to take into account possible damage and add 3-5% of the total quantity.

Advice: When calculating the amount of materials and their cost, ask the craftsmen not only the cost of the work, but also the price of the materials. After all, construction stores often offer discounts to professional workers with permanent employment or give discount cards. If the contractor does not have this, there is a high probability of ending up as “hack workers.”

Design development and selection of plumbing fixtures

When choosing plumbing fixtures, you should seriously think about the design, after all, without an idea appearance It is impossible to select the required appliances for a future bath. You can search for a photo ready-made solutions, or you can turn to designers for help, whose efforts will prepare a turnkey design bathroom. Then we proceed to choosing accessories according to your taste and budget. You should also consider how the washbasin and bathtub are placed, whether they will have separate faucets or you can get by with one, and whether the bathroom will be shared or separate.

Also, when choosing a faucet, you should pay attention to expensive ones with a hand sensor (infrared). This type of fittings will be much more economical than conventional ones. Indeed, in some cases, water savings will be 50% or more, and electricity for water heating will be about 35-40 percent.

Work order

Carrying out a DIY bathroom renovation , the exact sequence of actions must be followed. Let's assume that a design has already been created, materials and plumbing have been purchased, and tools are available (purchased or rented). So where to start doing your own bathroom renovation?

The most important thing is to be confident in your actions and get to work:

We are preparing the room.
We determine the condition of the floor, walls and ceiling.
We are starting a major overhaul of the floor: waterproofing, insulation and screed.
We install pipelines.
Laying out the electrical wiring
We level the walls and ceiling (plaster).
We insulate and sheathe the ceiling.
We're laying the floor.
We carry out wall finishing: tiling work, cleaning seams and sealing corners (sealing).
We install ventilation.
We install and connect plumbing.

As you can see, do-it-yourself bathroom renovation differs from other types of renovation. And why all?

Firstly, the bathroom is a damp and warm room where there are comfortable conditions for the growth of bacteria. Therefore, the use of ordinary drywall and waterproof metal frame is impractical, because over time this coating will become a breeding ground for infection.

Secondly, finishing the bathtub cannot be done with ordinary floor coverings(laminate, parquet, wood, etc.), fasteners, parts, components made of steel that are susceptible to corrosion or oxidation, as well as highly absorbent materials.

Third , Special attention it will be necessary to pay attention to electrical safety: increased and most importantly constant humidity of the floor, walls and ceiling in combination with high voltage carries a great risk to human life.

Note: If you have a small bathroom, you might want to consider installing a walk-in shower or corner bathtub. These alterations will help make your bathroom more spacious with your own hands, which will allow you to install a washing machine.

Preparing the room for work

First of all, we start dismantling the room: we take out all the appliances, mirrors, etc. At the next stage, we decide what will happen to the old bathroom. If replacement, then it should be dismantled and installed new bath either a booth or corner bath. If the bathtub is cast iron, there is no point in replacing it with a new one. It will be easier to do redecorating acrylic or epoxy compound.

At the next stage, we turn off all pipes and sewers. We close the taps and disconnect the cold and hot water, then remove all the pipes from the toilet cistern, washbasin, faucets, and heated towel rail. Then we clean up bare walls.

Next, turn off the electricity in the bathroom at the switchboard and continue. We remove the old tiles and plaster on the walls down to the concrete or brickwork. If the bathroom with your own hands has strong plaster and good condition, it will be easier to update it. We also remove the coating old paint on the ceiling and floor.

Carefully! All work must be carried out wearing a respirator, safety glasses and gloves.

To remove tiles from the walls, we use a hammer drill with a chisel (for concrete), everything needs to be removed, there should be no mortar residue. In the case of plaster, it can be removed upper layer and the surface is leveled, everything is cleaned with a metal hair brush with a diameter of 80-100 mm.

Removing coating from ceiling while renovating bathroom , Don't forget about safety - watch your head.

Since the work of removing coatings is very dusty, it is better to do it indoors, and if the door to the bathroom is removed, the opening must be tightly covered with film.

Repair of floors, ceilings and walls

Having removed the old tiles from the floor, we revise the old screed. If the surface does not have chips or cracks, you can use a diamond wheel on a grinder and simply level the surface. Otherwise, you will have to completely remove the entire coating to the base. If you are renovating a bathroom , If you are replacing a cast iron bathtub with any other, you can use a liquid leveler. Otherwise full of water cast iron bath will put too much pressure on the floor and cracks will appear again.

In cases where a major renovation is being carried out, the best option would be to use a self-leveling floor. Although ThermoPlast material itself is expensive, it is small room its use will be very attractive and not much more expensive than conventional solutions. And whatever the material for the new screed, you will have to do waterproofing.

For this procedure, you need to use only appropriate materials, such as polyethylene terephthalate or aquaizol. If the material has to be cut, then the joints should be heated construction hairdryer and glue with a special adhesive mastic. When the entire plane is laid with insulator and overlaps are made on the edges (at least 25 cm), you should pour new reupholstery floor.

Tip: The liquid for the grouted floor must be two-component. First, apply a thicker solution, and then a liquid one (to level the floor).

Insulation and screed

Continuing with your DIY bathroom renovation , You should seriously think about the material for floor insulation. After all, an insulated floor is not only comfort, but also a guarantee good health. Thus, among the suitable materials, glass-magnesite sheet (GML) should be noted, while expanded clay and foam concrete are eliminated due to their high hygroscopicity and fragility.

SML is a very durable material and provides the opportunity to install beacons and mesh made of reinforcement.

When using a cement composition for screed, you need to use cement of quality 400 or higher, quartz sand (sifted), water with the addition of PVA (10-15%) - you will need a volume equal to the amount of cement. We make a solution in a ratio of 4 to 1, after which we apply a layer 4-5 cm thick (according to pre-set markers) and level it with a rule, followed by polishing with a polisher to create a perfectly flat surface for laying tiles.

Important! New screed on the base cement mortar should last about 40 days.

Installation of a bathroom begins with laying communications. You should start with the installation of the sewerage system, after which the pipelines are laid and the heated towel rail is installed.

Since pipelines always get in the way, look ugly and are an eyesore, it is best to hide them in a niche. But when we repair a bathtub ourselves, we must remember that sewer pipes cannot be welded and they must always be accessible. Then the most simple solution will run all the pipes in one bundle along the bottom edge and cover it with a galvanized sheet covered with tiles (it sits on the sealant so that you can remove the cover).

Only vertical sections for sewerage, water pipes, and pipes for heated towel rails will have to be tapped. To reduce and simplify the installation of drying, it is best to use metal-plastic pipes, because they are easier to hide in the wall.

In addition to the pipes, a DIY bathtub must be electrically safe; electrical wires must be hidden in it; they are best mounted in plastic, metal boxes or corrugated wires. And use wires in double insulation due to the increased risk of electric shock.

Ceiling lining

When renovating a bathtub at home, do not forget about insulating the ceiling, even if your house is very warm. The most important advantage of insulation is the reduction or complete elimination of condensation formation. As insulation, the best option would be, as in the version with a floor, LSU. The sheets are fastened with an adhesive solution or silicone, and while the glue hardens, the sheets are supported with slats at the rate of 1-2 slats for every meter.

When we renovate the bathroom ourselves, we want to achieve best result, but beautiful and high quality ceiling is the key to success. When choosing material for the ceiling, you need to remember the humidity of this room. And the best representatives for finishing the ceiling would be lining (plastic) or laminate. But there are several nuances here:

All installation is done using special mounting adhesive or silicone.
Before installation, the laminate is treated on the reverse side with PVA emulsion.
All boards must be supported with slats until the glue dries completely.
Before joining, each joint is coated with a thin layer of glue or silicone. And the remains are immediately removed with a rag soaked in solvent (for adhesive solution) or ordinary vinegar (for silicone).
The two final boards are installed together in a house-like fashion and then clicked together to complete the bathtub ceiling lining.

If suddenly questions arise: “Won’t the ceiling collapse on your head?” or “will moisture get under it?”, we can confidently answer that finishing a bathroom with your own hands in this way is very reliable and durable. After all, you have it fixed on the ceiling monolithic slab and it is glued along the entire plane, and its seams are sealed, which prevents moisture from entering. Also, after installing the ceiling, tiles are laid, which slightly overlap the laminate, which is an additional fastening and holds the coating even more reliably.

Floor and wall cladding

Laying tiles on walls and floors has a lot in common, namely:

The surface must be completely flat when making a bath with your own hands.
The mixture is applied to the size of 2 or more tiles using a spatula. The size is somewhere around 0.25-0.35 sq.m.
Remove drips of the adhesive mixture with a rag moistened with vinegar (for silicone) or flannel (microfiber can be used).
Each tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet (starting from the last one gradually towards the edge) so that there is no empty space under the tile.
You can use both tiles and porcelain stoneware.
Holes for pipes and plumbing are made in advance and cut with a diamond cutter (crown).

In addition to the general points described, there are several features. Among these nuances are:

The tiles are laid on the wall with seams (through crosses), and on the floor without.
The best option for walls would be ceramic tile(porcelain stoneware is also possible, but it is much more expensive), and for the floor there is porcelain stoneware. The latter has several advantages, in particular, impact resistance and “non-slip” when wet.

Briefly about materials and tools

Plaster

When renovating your bathroom, you need to remember that the quality of the preparatory work the end result depends. That's why:

plastering is carried out along the lighthouses;
It is mandatory to apply 2 layers. Starting (tenacious base) and finishing (levels the surface).
plastering is carried out from ceiling to floor.
The edges of the waterproofing are secured with masking tape and plastered.

Pipes

When renovating a bathroom yourself, it is better to choose polypropylene pipes. You can also use metal-plastic, metal, or PVC pipes, but they are less reliable and durable, although they are cheaper.

Metal pipes- the cheapest, but they rust very quickly inside and from the outside, as a result they become unusable.

PVC is suitable for dachas, private houses, that is, short-lived buildings, and is also completely unsuitable for hot water supply.

Metal-plastic suitable, but for large volumes where a lot of bends, turns, etc. are required. (for water floors, heating installations and pipelines). Also, over time, fittings begin to leak.

Tile

To decorate your bathroom with your own hands at the highest level, you need to pay special attention to the choice of tiles. When purchasing, make sure that the surface of the tile does not have holes, chips, or other damage. To determine, it is best to look at the tiles from the sides.

Another selection criterion will be the same size of slabs in different packages. Therefore, you need to ask the seller for several pieces of tiles from different packs and look at the height and width. If the difference does not exceed 1 mm, then it can be taken.

Another important condition is the evenness of the surface. That is, the absence of “propellers”, bumps, etc. To check, place two tiles with the glossy side facing each other and look from the end.

Tools and mixes

When making a bathroom with your own hands, you can highlight the main tools and materials that you cannot do without.

Tile adhesive. It is best to take long-term drying (12-24 hours). This glue will allow you to carry out work without haste and correct all the “jambs”.
Spatula for setting up the adhesive mixture. The optimal tooth pitch is from 3 to 6 mm.
Tile cutter.
Diamond wheels, drills, crowns.
Rags, microfiber cloths, crosses, templates for laying tiles to make your bathroom flawless with your own hands.
Grinder, hammer drill and soldering iron with attachments for polypropylene pipes.

You may also need other available materials: wooden slats, spatulas, level, ladder, etc., that is, everything to make the turnkey bathtub you are renovating with your own hands ideal.

Let's sum it up

It is possible and even necessary to renovate a bathroom yourself, but for many reasons it can be an impossible task.

Firstly, the lack of the required tool. Perhaps renovating a bathroom with your own hands will cost you only the purchase of tools more expensive than repairs professionals.

And, secondly, a complete lack of experience, and, most importantly, desire will also become a big problem.

If all these conditions are not scary for you and the question “How to repair a bathtub with your own hands?” is not something supernatural and frightening, be sure to proceed self-repair.

And finally, I would like to clarify that this article is for informational purposes only and describes superficial aspects of the repair. For a more detailed study, you can study the photo report of the masters, as well as the repair videos available on our website. For example, “How to make a bath with your own hands.”

And the most important rule of any master: “The eyes are afraid, but the hands do.”

To do high-quality repairs in the bathroom, you don’t have to have a lot of finances. After all, if you want, you can save a lot of money.

For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and come up with the style in which the renovation will be carried out yourself.

You can also save money on a construction crew and do everything yourself.

But in order for the process to be streamlined and the result to be achieved, it is necessary to draw up in advance detailed plan actions.

So, you will need:

Come up with a design;
Stock up on necessary materials and tools;
Make an estimate;
Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and plumbing dimensions;

When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of the room. Owners of a small area should take into account that large space less functional.

Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.

You can refuse to install a bathtub and give preference to a shower stall. Thus, there will be more space in the room.

For hygiene products, instead of bulky floor cabinets, you can hang compact hanging cabinets.

Once you have decided on a design choice, you need to create an action plan. After all, for the process to proceed continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.

Negligent attitude towards previous works can significantly affect the final result.

Step 1: Calculate the amount of building materials

This is a very important stage in the repair. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.

Indeed, in the process of cutting and laying, some of the material may be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a reserve.

Step 2: Remove the old surface

To remove tiles from the walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work using a hammer drill or drill. There are two options for dismantling: gentle and emergency.

The first is done using a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.

The second option is much faster, but more dusty and noisy. To do this, you simply need to demolish the coating in layers using a hammer drill.

Step 3: Repairing the floor

First of all, install the screed device. If the installation of an additional “warm floor” system is not provided, then the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3 - 4 cm if the floors are insulated in the future.

There are several types of “warm floor” systems: water, film and electric. Any of the systems maintains the microclimate in the bathroom well, but has no high cost and easy to install.

Step 4: Wall Decoration

Today, the market offers bathroom materials for “any budget.” First of all, it all depends on the finances you have. Most often, tiles are placed on the walls.

But you can choose more a budget option, for example, plastic panels or special moisture-resistant plaster. At this stage of repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.

Step 5: Ceiling

When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. For example, elastic vinyl film looks very nice with tiles and plastic.

If you plan to make a ceiling with various transitions, then use special moisture-resistant plasterboard. However, there is a more budget option: plastic panels.

After all the finishing work has been completed, you can install the bath, furniture and plumbing. Do-it-yourself repair is not an easy task, but it is very educational. Plus, this can save you money and make the design exactly the way you want!

DIY bathroom renovation photo

In any case, it’s worth considering renovating a bathroom yourself: payment for the work is at least 50% of the cost of materials, that is, do-it-yourself renovation will cost at least one and a half times less, and renovating the bathroom and toilet itself is expensive. But you need to approach the matter with all responsibility: renovating a bathroom requires not only thorough knowledge, but also quite high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of self-repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or company ready to do a bathroom renovation inexpensively compared to your expected costs, then contact them. In any case, we begin preparing for repairs by studying prices.

Prices and costs

Materials for bathroom renovation need to be chosen carefully. In addition to the usual parameters, the coefficient of moisture absorption (a bathroom is a room with high humidity), the coefficient of thermal expansion (sharp temperature changes in the bathroom are frequent) and porosity are important - it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can’t count on “if only it’s cheaper.”

It is most likely impossible to find accurate data on the parameters of materials, and it is difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so you should choose materials specifically designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. Prices for materials suitable for bathroom renovation are approximately as follows:

Floor tiles - from 40 rubles/piece (30x30 cm) produced in the CIS and from 60 rubles/piece produced in Europe, with no best quality, but often better decor.
Wall tiles - the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is smaller.
Porcelain tiles - from 50 rubles/piece.
Glue, cross patterns, tile grout - plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
Glass-magnesite sheet (FMS) 1220x2440 mm – from 250 rubles/sheet.
Laminate – from 300 rubles/board 300x2950 mm.
Self-leveling floor - from 220 rubles/10 liters of ready-made compound.
The same, with insulation effect (ThermoPlast compound) - from 640 rubles/sq.m.
Teak or larch flooring – from 500 rubles/sq.m.
Polypropylene pipes PPN for cold water – from 24 rubles/sq.m.
Same PPR for hot water(reinforced) – from 35 rubles/sq.m.
Sewer pipes 50 mm – from 45 rubles/sq.m.
Fittings for pipelines and shut-off valves– 60% of the price of pipes.
PVA emulsion – from 240 rubles/pack of 5 liters.

Based on these prices and knowing the area of the floor, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to renovate a bathroom independent execution. When calculating, you need to consider the following:

You will not necessarily need all the names of materials. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below when describing the stages of work.
All specified materials are equivalent in quality of the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
For breakage and waste of small tiles, a reserve of 3-5% should be given per piece: let’s say, the area is 300 pieces. on the floor. You need to purchase 310-315. If a small bathroom is being renovated, 5-7% should be allocated for waste and damage.
Departure slab materials calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see further sections.
For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.) you need to add 35-40% to the resulting amount.
The total time to do the work yourself will be at least 2 weeks for a bath and toilet and at least 2 months when replacing a floor screed.
Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice of names and manufacturers.

Adviсe:

When focusing on prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only total cost works, but also their prices for individual materials. To good craftsmen suppliers give a discount, and prices will be lower than store prices. If it turns out to be more expensive, turn to someone else: in front of you are either hacks or incompetents.

When choosing a heated towel rail, consider a custom stainless steel one. Chromed brass is most often more expensive, and other varieties are either very expensive (such as those with additional electric heating) or are of poor quality.

Also consider purchasing a faucet with an infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when you bring your hands to it and gives water at a preset temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are approximately 50% (half!) of water and 35-40% of electricity for heating it.

Sequence of work

Let's say you decide that you are independent economical repair bathroom you can do. In this case, you need to know that bathroom renovation work is carried out in a certain sequence:

Selecting the quantity and range of plumbing fixtures.
Design development and choice of colors.
Quantity calculation and purchase of finishing materials.
Preparing the premises.
Inspecting the condition of the floor and choosing a method for repairing it.
Purchase of materials for floor repair.
Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
Laying of pipelines.
Electrical wiring.
and ceiling.
Ceiling finishing: insulation and cladding.
Flooring.
Wall finishing: cladding, grouting, sealing corners.
Installation of ventilation.
Installation and installation of plumbing.

As you can see, the recommended sequence of work differs somewhat from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; Before we describe how to renovate a bathroom, we will additionally clarify some important points:

A warm, damp bath is a favorable environment for the proliferation of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods such as drywall on lathing are not considered: any blank cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a breeding ground for infection.
The bathroom is a particularly dangerous room in terms of the risk of electric shock: high humidity, elevated temperature, electrically conductive (wet for any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the question of sockets and switches in the bathroom disappears - it is fraught with a risk to life and a considerable fine. How to get around this restriction without formally breaking the rules and without putting your life in danger is described in detail in another article; Here we will give only general instructions.
When planning work in the bathroom, you should in every possible way avoid the use of ordinary commercial wood, parts and fasteners made of simple steel with any coating, aluminum and other corrosive materials that constantly corrode. high humidity or materials that actively absorb moisture.
In a small apartment, it makes complete sense to install a shower stall instead of the previous bath; perhaps combined with a corner hip bath. At current prices for drinking water and hot water supply, residents of budget housing do not often want to soak in the bathtub, and in a small bathroom this frees up space for a washing machine.

Let's start the renovation

Plumbing and design

Where to start renovating a bathroom with your own hands? From the development of its design, and the design – from the choice of plumbing fixtures. Let’s not make witty remarks about the combination of high and low matters: the complexity of the repair and the costs of it largely depend on these stages. For example: a tulip washbasin greatly simplifies the laying of pipes, but requires tiles of increased smoothness and without relief for wall cladding, otherwise dirt will slowly spread across the walls from the stand under it. A bathtub-mounted faucet also makes it easier to work with pipes, but then you need a separate faucet for the washbasin.

It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only report a fact: in identical apartments of the same building, the bathrooms are decorated in approximately the same way, using the same materials from the same supplier, but the cost of repairs differs by up to 20%. Considering the total cost of such an expensive object as a bathroom, the amount is considerable. So – we think, we consider, we estimate.

It can also be noted that in an ordinary house You don’t even have to think about a faucet built into the wall: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid down at the design stage of the building. In standard houses, hollowing out a niche for it is unacceptable.

Materials

Pipes

Only suitable material for pipes – polypropylene. Metal-plastic is more expensive and, in terms of technical and economic indicators, is more suitable for long pipelines with many bends. They are not observed in the bathroom, but the gaskets in fittings for metal-plastic will leak someday, but propylene can be welded into a solid monolith and hidden in the walls without fear.

As for PVC or polyethylene, pipes made from them, based on their combined properties, are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap, short-lived buildings. Steel pipes they are still the cheapest, but, as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in an apartment or small private house all their cheapness comes to naught.

Advice: When choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a caliper. Otherwise, you may end up having to buy two instead of one expensive diamond drill.

Fittings and fittings

It’s worth talking about fittings for propylene in particular. In the bathroom, where access to even open connections is difficult, fittings should only be used from solid plastic. Switching to metal is permissible only when connecting to consumers, for example, a boiler (see figure). It is with the help of such fittings that you can assemble a complete water intake and hide it out of sight, without thinking about leaks. Of course, you need a special soldering iron for this.

Butt jointing of pipes is completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if you need to connect two sections of pipe, this is also done using a special coupling.

The shut-off valve is ball, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the picture on the right. For connection to metal - a pipe with thickened walls and threads in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes the metal threaded insert weakens over time, is squeezed out and a leak appears.

Tile

For floor the best choice– porcelain stoneware. It is only slightly more expensive than tiles, which is small area costs pennies, but is much stronger and non-slippery even with a smooth surface. The latter in the bathroom is vitally important: fractures and traumatic brain injuries from those who slipped in the bathroom are not the least important in emergency medical statistics.

When purchasing, be sure to check the dimensional accuracy and condition of the surface of the tiles:

Request from the seller several pieces from different packages. If he refuses, we go to someone else.
Place the tiles on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the top edge. If the difference in size between 3-4 pairs does not exceed 1 mm, you can take from this batch after checking the “face” and glaze.
We also apply the tiles in pairs with their front surfaces facing each other. There should be no visible bump, “trough” or “propeller”.
Next, take the tile, bring it close to your eyes and look along its surface against the light. There are dots, cracks, micro-rainbows - we reject them: the bathroom will soon become overgrown with dirt, and you won’t be able to clean it off.

Such high demands on bathroom tiles are explained not so much by aesthetics as by hygiene: impurities invisible to the eye will become a source of infection, and under the bathtub it is difficult to control the condition of the surface and wash it. Therefore, it is better not to consider options for “alternative” products at all.

Tool and glue

It is better to take tile adhesive that dries slowly - 12-24 hours. At self-installation this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws without compromising the quality of the coating. Again, hygiene comes first: the tiles may still hold firmly, but in the tiny sink underneath the microbes will find a cozy and inaccessible home for you.

The glue spatula must be selected with the pitch and depth of teeth indicated on the glue packaging. If there are no such instructions, and this glue has been previously tested and proven reliable, then the teeth are from 3 to 6 mm. A large-toothed trowel for gluing the floor will cause the glue to rust too high, and there will likely be cavities under the tiles.

Immediately take a look at the tile cutter with a crown diamond drill to the outer diameter of the purchased pipes. Templates for laying tiles are plastic crosses; others in the bathroom will be difficult to work with. You don’t have to worry about a trowel for grouting: instead of it, a piece of electrical cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation will work perfectly, see below. But be sure to stock up on flannel rags (for the same grout), and it’s better to buy 5-6 cheap microfiber cloths for cleaning glasses.

The remaining materials for bathroom renovation are selected according to the usual construction work criteria.

Preparing the premises

First of all, you need to decide what to do with your old bathroom. If it is cast iron, it is better to leave it. If it’s tin, but without chipped enamel and somehow repaired fistulas, then optimal solution will . Well, it’s better to sell the “dead tin” for scrap metal and replace it with an acrylic one. New cast iron is not much better in quality and durability, and you will have to strain to move it and risk damaging the newly laid decor.

Next, turn off the water, disconnect cold pipe after diverting it to the flush cistern and to the kitchen, we throw temporary shelters, at least from a garden watering hose. Sitting completely without water for at least 10 days is definitely “neither here nor here.” You just need to remember to close the outlets from the risers at night or when leaving home: a hose is a hose.

Then we remove everything from the bathroom down to the bare walls. We are not touching the sewer system yet. We plug the heating pipes connecting to the heated towel rail with screw plugs. We turn off the electrical wiring of the bathroom in distribution box; For lighting while working, you will have to use a portable lamp on an extension cord.

Now you can start cleaning surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work must be done with safety glasses and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before we start, we tap and try to drill REGULAR drill walls.

IN panel house In some “Brezhnev” projects, a “pleasant” surprise may await you: an internal insulating box made of GVP (gypsum fiber boards). It definitely needs to be removed; you will see the underside of the slabs and the sheathing - you will understand why. More work is added, and you need to work with the ceiling carefully: support it so that it doesn’t collapse.

We knock down the old tiles with a hammer drill and a concrete chisel. If the tiles were laid on cement mortar, you will have to tinker: there should be no residue. We remove the paint and the top layer of plaster using a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; This is the most dusty and unpleasant part of the work, so it is advisable to send the family somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly or, if it has already been removed, tightly cover its opening with film. Otherwise, when your family returns, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy again, especially furniture and carpets.

All of a sudden old plaster turns out to be loose and fragile (in old houses - most often), we remove it to the concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky and it is strong, we level it with a drill and a stripping brush, checking with a level. There will be a lot of hassle, but in the future it will be compensated. We beat the plaster over the electrical wiring with a hammer drill and a chisel (don’t forget to turn it off in the electrical box or on the panel!) and remove the wires.

Floor revision

We remove the remains of the cement backing under the tiles from the floor with a hammer drill and chisel. If there are reasons not to touch the old screed (for example, once the washing machine completely leaked out, but not a drop leaked to the neighbors), then it is better to use a grinder with a diamond cup (a cup-shaped cleaning wheel). The tool is expensive, but further work will pay off with interest.

This is followed by a thorough wet cleaning and a careful inspection of the old screed. One crack means either replacing the screed or filling it with a liquid leveler. The latter, in terms of the total cost of money, labor and time, is optimal, except for the case when a cast-iron bath remains or will be installed - its weight with water is more than permissible.

If you are renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, then the option of self-leveling flooring turns out to be doubly attractive: for a small room, the costs of even expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the leveler can be poured directly on top of the old tiles. And we immediately get an insulated floor. The layer of self-leveling floor, taking into account shrinkage during hardening of 10%, must be at least 30 mm; From this calculation the required volume is determined. But in any case, new floor waterproofing will be needed.

Waterproofing

You cannot use regular film for waterproofing a bathroom. It’s not for nothing that when referring to a bathroom they say “waterproofing” and not “vapor barrier”. Here, the only material available is aquaizol or its analogues made of polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water into a bag made from such a film, tie it and hang it in the very heart of the Karakum Desert in July, then the water will not decrease within a month.

The joints of the waterproofing are either glued with a special mastic or welded with an industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so you need to practice on pieces first. The insulation is placed on the walls at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. m; the maximum strength of the floor by weight) with folds (without cuts!) in the corners. After laying the insulation, you can pour the floor or make a new screed.

Self-leveling floor

The composition for the self-leveling floor should be taken as a two-component one: an initial, viscous fill - it will not leak to the neighbors - and then a leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.

New screed

To insulate the floor, you cannot use expanded clay in the bathroom - it is very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam concrete are also not suitable - they are fragile. In essence, the only option is glass-magnesite boards, SML, especially since they cost at the level of drywall. The strength of SML allows you to immediately lay it on them reinforcing mesh and place beacons.

The composition of the cement mortar for the screed and the technology for its formation have some features:

Cement – grades not lower than 400.
Sand – sifted quartz.
The proportion of sand to cement is 4:1.
Water - in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
Add 10% by volume PVA emulsion to water.
Formation – according to “beacon” markers in a layer of 40-50 mm.
After leveling, the rule is to rub until smooth with a polisher.

The latter is necessary, since in a bathroom it is impossible to lay the finished floor on joists, and in the case of a tiled floor, the base surface must also be perfectly flat. Please also note: the newly formed one must stand for at least 40 days before continuing work.

Communications

Open pipelines in the bathroom are not pleasing to the eye, and building walls underneath them is time-consuming, dusty and tedious. In a block house, it is generally impossible to hide the sewerage system in a groove: the fittings will not work, but it cannot be disturbed. In addition, on sewer pipes welded joints are not made, which means that the sewage system must be accessible for inspection and repair, especially since it most often gets clogged.

Laying pipes downhill

Based on these considerations, we obtain a combined solution: we run all the pipes in a bundle along the bottom and cover them with a galvanized slope (see the figure on the right). Cladding tiles that match the walls or contrast are glued onto the slope with silicone, and the slope is glued to the walls and floor with silicone after finishing is completed. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and upon completion of the work, the slope can be glued back into place. In bathroom standard layout You will need about a meter of slope from the wall to the bath screen.

Grooves for pipes will also be needed, but in a minimal quantity and short vertical ones: one - if the mixer is shared; two - if the washbasin has its own mixer; 3-4 – if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best option; the natural place of a boiler in a “rest house for needs”; who hasn’t read “1001 Nights” - in the toilet.

We begin replacing pipelines with the sewer system: waste pipes are quickly assembled on seals with sealant. It is quite possible to deal with them in a day, and then solder the water pipes without haste. The pipes are foamed in the grooves - this is additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid before plastering.

Electrical wiring is carried out with double insulated wire wrapped in corrugation. Most often, inexpensive plastic ones are used, but if the repair involves replacing the electrical wiring in the apartment, then metal is desirable - then all the wiring will be shielded, which is good in all respects.

Heating pipes

What about the heat pipes of a heated towel rail? We change to metal-plastic. They will go into the wall (shallow grooves are needed) and will come out with a bend; metal-plastic can be bent. The lower adapter fittings will disappear under the slope, and the upper ones will remain where they were - on the dryer. Full cycle of heated towel rail replacement.

Plaster

Floor finishing

The floor tiles are laid with glue, but unlike the walls (see below) without seams. Glue drips are immediately removed as described above. The glue is applied with a spatula in longitudinal strokes of approximately 0.25-0.35 square meters; for tiles 30x30 cm - on one next tile.

Laying is carried out from the door so that the cut tiles end up under the bathtub and under the slope covering the pipes. The cut rows (possibly the penultimate whole one) are laid after the glue has hardened under the already laid ones, so as not to trample on them and knock down the coating.

Each newly laid tile is tapped rubber mallet starting from the previous one. They tap in rows of blows, gradually moving towards the free edge. It is important that there are no voids left under the tiles, which is why the glue grooves should be parallel, not very wide and deep.

Complete instructions for laying tiles on floors and walls.

A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. It's warm, and it's even nice to stand on it with your bare feet. And you can install a cast-iron bathtub with any screed: the pressure of the legs will be distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But a wooden floor for a bathroom requires special execution and will cost more than a slab floor.

Suitable wood options include teak and larch. After impregnation with PVA emulsion and finishing coat with liquid (deep penetration) acrylic varnish, you don’t have to think about durability: the larch piles that reinforced the shore of Vasilyevsky Island under Peter the Great are still standing. But boards or tiles for such a floor must be taken tongue-and-groove and laid similarly to the ceiling, but with a distance of 20-25 mm from the walls to allow for swelling of the wood. Before installing the skirting boards, the gap must be filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no cavities!

Wall covering

Most often, bathroom walls are tiled. Porcelain stoneware is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped or spilled on the walls; splashes don't count. Recently, decorating the bathroom with plastic panels, inexpensive and hygienic, has become widespread, but a description of the materials for it and working methods is the subject of a separate article.

Wall tiling is carried out with cutting of seams, for which, when laying tiles on glue, crosses are first inserted between the tiles. The installation technology itself is the same as for the floor. In the tiles that will go to the outlets of pipes and electrical wiring, holes are drilled in advance with a diamond crown.

Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, then buy a crown larger than the diameter of the pipes. Otherwise, measuring the locations for the holes is akin to jewelry.

After the glue hardens, first seal the corners with silicone. A piece of electrical cable is placed on the silicone sausage through a thin plastic film, pressed and immediately removed. The silicone is pressed into the seam and a smooth, concave surface is formed. Drips and sagging of silicone are removed with a rag and vinegar. Additionally, the corner seam can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative overlay made of the same silicone.

Seams are cut on a plane special composition– it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. They take out the crosses, fill the seam, press with a piece of cable (now you can do it without film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remains with flannel or microfiber. Cutting seams with your finger leaves micro-irregularities in which dirt will accumulate.

Plumbing, ventilation and electrical

The installation and installation of plumbing fixtures has no special features and has been described repeatedly. In particular, you will:

, sink, in some cases – .
Optional - .

When installing ventilation, you should inspect the old duct, removed in preparation for repairs. In most cases, even the boxes of the very first Khrushchev buildings, after cleaning and repainting, are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately advisable to install a firecracker valve into it: cold blowing in winter is excluded.

Stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom are acceptable exhaust fan And ceiling lamp in a waterproof design. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-core cord, with a protective conductor and a Euro plug, with a one-piece sealed (molded) entry into the housing. The washing machine does not belong to stationary electrical installations; its connection when installed in the bathroom - .

About the “combination”

Renovating a bathroom combined with a toilet - what to do? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are plenty of features for renovating a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion is.

Conclusion

By taking on the task of renovating a bathroom yourself, you can save a lot: the undertaking is expensive, and workers’ compensation accounts for a significant portion of the costs. But you can make a lot of mistakes: the work is complex, responsible, and requires both basic knowledge and good qualifications of the builder.

Video: DIY bathroom renovation tutorial

(1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Discussion:

Pavel said:

Renovation of a one-room apartment in a new building. We reached an agreement with the workers. For two months now they have been fiddling around in the room and kitchen without touching the bathroom. I thought the bathroom was the first thing to be renovated. I feel something is wrong, but I don’t understand what. Tell me, knowledgeable people, why are they delaying the bath?

Vasily said:

I renovated my bathroom this summer. I didn’t dare to hire private traders, but ordered from a company. I am very pleased with the quality, everything is done according to highest level, I bought plumbing fixtures and tiles at a discount through this company. They gave a 2-year guarantee, and also provided insurance for the entire apartment. In short, don’t get involved with private traders, there will be only hemorrhoids, and there will be no savings!

Roman said:

During the bathroom renovation, I hid all the pipes (polypropylene) in the wall and covered them with tiles, so I don’t have any pipes in the bathroom. It's been 4 years now and there are no problems. But the machine and the “moidodyr” washbasin, and the bathtub stand tightly pressed to the wall, have saved so much space. The main thing is to buy quality material and do the job conscientiously. and I don’t trust anyone except myself.

Dmitry Rogoza said:

And I had such an interesting story, I live in an apartment on first floor, and Naturally, the basement under my apartment is not large. Well, the bathroom itself is not big, so my wife and I decided to install a shower stall in order to save a lot of space in the bathroom, but since the house is old, I decided to look into the basement, I had a constant feeling that we would fail, so I went down to the basement and the boards there were rotten, the house was old, they had to change the floor and install iron beams. Everything seemed to go well. said:

In terms of the cost of materials and plumbing, the bathroom occupies, perhaps, first place among other rooms in the apartment. Provided, of course, if you are doing major renovations here. Toilet, bathtub, faucets, shower - all this costs a pretty penny. Plus, the work is labor-intensive. if you want. For example. hide water pipes into the wall. but instead of a new bathtub - cast iron or steel - you can insert it into an old one acrylic liner. the bathtub will look like new and keep warm well. The ceiling can be covered with plastic panels - it will be beautiful and aesthetically pleasing for many years.

Alena Demchenko said:

Hello!!! My husband and I bought a house and decided to start renovating the toilet. We replaced all the plumbing with plastic. The pipes that were able to be hidden under the tiles were hidden, but the waste pipes were made into a box from the clapboard and hidden, because no one from the neighbors wanted to change the sewer pipes, they said they were happy with everything. Everything turned out beautifully and neatly. With a new bathroom and plumbing.

Oksana said:

I have a separate bathroom and, in my opinion, this is very convenient when the family is large. There are tiles on the walls and floor in both the bathroom and toilet. They glued it very carefully without seams. I've never heard of such a technique before. It turned out awesome! But I chose glossy tiles - they are easily soiled. But after cleaning it looks great! Our equipment is not expensive, but durable - we are happy with it.

Christina said:

Somehow we also had to tinker with renovations in the bathroom. Although it would be a stretch to call it a renovation... The fact is that at that time we lived in a rented apartment, to put it mildly, with not very good repair. They decided to change the bathtub - the old one was in terrible condition. I sent my husband to get a new one, but it was inexpensive. Bought. I brought it. Italian. I'm shocked. She's low, low! Almost right up to my knees! Like a bidet, just a big one, honestly! I had to think about how to lift it. Invented) Made “ layered cake” from fiberboard slabs lying around in the apartment and polyurethane foam, were laid one by one. And then they just put a bath on them. Of course, the design still had the same appearance, but it became convenient to use the bathroom. For temporary housing - great option. Then I also had to clean the sink so that washing machine got in. But there were no problems with this.

Renovating a bathroom is not an easy task. We completely ripped out the old floor, right down to the concrete, because we installed heating pipes so that there would be a warm floor. This is not an easy task, but it is worth it, there is much more warmth in the apartment and you can sit on the tiles. My daughter constantly plays on the floor, so the warm floor is an even bigger plus. By the way, we have this kind of floor in the hallway, bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Plus, the bathtub and toilet were combined, because there was no room at all.

Elena said:

In general, we left different bathrooms and toilets in exactly the same Khrushchev building to our parents. There are two parents, it’s cramped, yes, but some need to go to the toilet, and some need to wash. When repairing a toilet, a box was installed on the pipes with water meters in the form of a useful cabinet with a removable hatch cover to view the readings. And they also made a small corner sink with a bidet, although now the door has to be opened outward, everything is at hand.

Said):

I renovated the entire apartment last summer, including the bathroom. The biggest expense was spent on renovating the bathroom. Despite his wife’s excuses, he made the frame for the built-in sink himself and washing machine, covered the frame with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and covered it with mosaic tiles on all sides. Relatives are generally delighted with the results!

Vadim said:

In our case of renovation, the most difficult thing was, oddly enough, dismantling the old plumbing. While making repairs, we never ceased to be amazed at the crooked hands of the house builders - not a single one even angle, everything rests on your word of honor. And in the combined bathroom, the toilet was installed so firmly that they spent a day dismantling it. Well, after dismantling, leveling the floor took as much leveling solution as it did not go into the kitchen!

By clicking the “Add comment” button, I agree with the site.