The famous Japanese brand Janome is famous for the excellent quality of its products. More than 300 models of sewing machines alone are produced. About a hundred countries have existing contracts for the supply of Janome sewing machines.
By this indicator one can judge the quality of manufactured products. Every day, thousands of machines leave the assembly lines of enterprises, and the stable demand for them confirms the amazing manufacturability and functionality of the devices. In addition to ready-made machines, enterprises also produce spare parts for Janome sewing machines, including even .
Like all Japanese technology, sewing machines of this brand are very reliable and of high quality in terms of manufacturing. However, breakdowns happen to them too. The main reasons for them are negligence in performing work and lack of proper care.
Even the best equipment can become unusable if it is not provided with proper operating conditions. Below we will look typical breakdowns, in which it becomes necessary to repair Janome sewing machines.
2 Caring for your Janome sewing machine
Any equipment needs maintenance. This fully applies to sewing machines. At permanent job Regular prevention is also required.
If you begin to notice that the machine is starting to malfunction, make noise, skip stitches, stitch unevenly, or give out some other surprises, then this indicates the need for cleaning and subsequent lubrication. It is also possible that the device requires adjustment.
Often you have to adjust the degree of thread tension. In machines of this class (like) such an operation can be performed without difficulty.
If no work is expected in the near future, the machine can be stored. Before doing this, the Janome sewing machine must be cleaned from dust and lubricated.
Any preventative cleaning and lubrication is accompanied by removing the shuttle. After this, using a special brush, all rubbing surfaces are cleaned of lint and fabric residues. Oil is poured into the technological holes. Rubbing parts are also lubricated.
The places to be lubricated are indicated in the instructions for the specific model. It is advisable to lubricate no more than once a month, since excessive lubrication can contribute to the opposite effect. Any remaining grease must be wiped off with a dry cloth.
After this, the shuttle is installed in place, and final assembly cars. If such work is beyond your strength, but in your locality available service center Janome sewing machines or just repair of sewing machines, then you can ask for services there. Otherwise, such preventive measures will have to be carried out independently.
The sewing machine should only be stored in heated rooms with normal humidity. It is unacceptable to leave it in the basement, garage or other rooms in the absence of heating.
And don’t forget, if you are using a sewing machine, you also need to diagnose it for malfunctions regularly.
Complex repairs of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by experienced master. But such repairs are rarely made, only when sewing machine a part breaks down and requires replacement followed by adjustment.
Most often, a sewing machine begins to “act up” if the rules of its operation specified in the instructions are violated or simple settings and adjustments are not followed.
The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunctioning is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, replacing the zipper in leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, and needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs involving the replacement of parts.
The main part of a sewing machine is the needle.
Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important detail at the typewriter. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in tissue and not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle tip becomes dull and the needle itself bends. And if the needle “hits” the metal part of the machine body at least once, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, which means everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its tip; its blade will be bent in one direction. How will such a point pierce fabric? There is only one way - to break through it.
Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point and “slow down”, forming excess top thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason why loops appear in a line. Moreover, a curved point will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the top thread is stretched to the limit.
It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only of replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it does not outwardly have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often.
There is no need to throw away used needles, since there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.
Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines like Singer or Podolsk, is incorrect installation needles into the needle bar. The needle blade (Figure B) should be located on the side of the shuttle nose. Remove the needle plate and see if this is true if the machine suddenly begins to loop and tear the thread.
It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, they establish exactly industrial types needle This should absolutely not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the nose of the shuttle and the needle blade, hence the gaps in stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household ones and can touch the surface of the shuttle, scratch it and even damage the shuttle.
Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, it is impossible to determine whether the needle is crooked or not, but if you place it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, curved needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will sooner or later break.
In order for the sewing machine to work more confidently with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and faux leather, denim, needles are produced designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have special shape points and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See needles for household sewing machines.
The looping of the thread in the line, as well as the characteristic knocking sound during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between all models of zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142. In short, looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, an incorrectly installed shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often children like to disassemble and reassemble it, and after such repairs, the machine stops working. The Chaika sewing machine sometimes has to be repaired quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, its parts are very strong, but to misadjustment of the interaction of some components of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle stroke.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.
First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have any nicks, rust spots. If there are nicks, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly be caught behind the file marks and loops will appear from below. You just need to do this carefully so as not to dull the tip of the shuttle nose.
Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound on it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, namely repair, since an inexperienced “master” often disassembles and reassembles all the components, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread frays, the lower thread will come out jerkily, and the upper thread in the stitch will periodically loop from below.
Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost all the way, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps thread frays have accumulated between the tensioner plates, which are preventing the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner (Chaika) may have become loose.
But still, most often, with sewing machines like Chaika, the operating parameters of the shuttle and needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather settings, but for general information it is advisable to know main reason, because of which all the “troubles” of sewing machines occur.
Attaching the needle bar and tensioner
Most often, the cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in the stitch, uneven stitching, omissions, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Chaika) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to wobble, or even “falls out” of the case.
Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1...2(3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine performs not only a straight stitch, but also on the left and right needle pricks (when performing a zigzag stitch).
The nose of the shuttle must simultaneously pass almost closely to the needle blade - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.
In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10mm socket wrench, and while holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (along with the shuttle stroke), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.
However, these are not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle begins to rise up. The needle drops to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps it around itself.
But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform zigzag stitches, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. When injecting the needle left and right, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should pass just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.
The above settings can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics, too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thicker fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only a master can set.
Sewing machine care and lubrication
In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary if you keep the sewing machine clean and lubricate it periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, and will not let it fall into the “strange” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.
After prolonged work, you should clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, fringes, and oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it, run it “idle” for a while, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into friction units and areas.
It is better to take machine oil into a medical syringe and drop small drops into accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.
The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust; try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the car for a long time will not be used, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil will harden from the dust, and the machine will be difficult to turn, or even jam. This case is discussed in the article
19 May 2011www.site
A. Removing the top cover
2. Close the protective cover, lift the handle and remove the screw to the left of the handle.
3. To remove the cover, press the latch inward at the base of the handle and remove the cover and handle.
B. Removing the side cover
2. Remove the screws from the bottom of the machine A And B. Screw B the smaller of the 2 screws located there.
3. Position the machine upright, and remove the plug from the side cover below the flywheel using a small screwdriver.
4. Remove the screw WITH.
C. Verification
1. After checking the relative position of the parts, look at the upper shaft from the side of the right support, between the support and the shaft limit washer. Check for any darkening or scuffing of the shaft. If there is any darkening, the shaft and support bushing must be replaced.
2. Loosen the locking screw on the left end of the upper shaft. Try to move the shaft from left to right. If the shaft does not move, this also indicates that the shaft and bushing must be replaced.
D. Shaft replacement
1. To begin the shaft replacement procedure, place the upper counterweight shaft in front of you so that you can access the locking screw and the positioning washer screw. Note that the single blade on the positioning washer is on the right (remember the position). Remove the fixing screw and the positioning washer screw.
3. Remove the screws A And IN.
4. Remove the thread drive unit (thread take-up unit) and place it behind the machine.
6. Using a hammer and 3.0mm core, remove the pin from the counterweight.
7. Position impact screwdriver or a core at the end of the upper shaft in counterweight (see inset). Knock out the shaft to the right about 1.5 cm.
10. Remove the upper shaft. Remove and set aside the retainer, retainer screw, positioning washer and its screw.
11. Lightly tap and use a small screwdriver to knock out the upper shaft bushing towards inside cars. Be careful not to damage the molded parts of the seats when doing this.
12. Install new bushings, install the bushings with the rounded end into the mounting hole...
13. ...make sure the bushing is flush with the seat casting.
14. Remove the retainer, bushing and counterweight onto the new shaft.
15. Remove the flywheel by pulling it out.
17. Remove the balance wheel and the metal and plastic washers.
18. Remove the belt pulley by turning it clockwise and pulling it out.
19. Remove the clutch springs from either end of the shaft ( A) or belt pulley ( B) by rotating clockwise and pulling out.
20. Use a 2.5 mm screwdriver or hexagon to drive out the upper camshaft camshaft pulley pin and remove the pulley, washers and clutch shaft bushing.
22. Remove the shaft from the ring coupling. Use an impact screwdriver...
23. Install the pulley onto the new shaft using a 1.5mm hex driver.
24. Install the oil seal washers, clutch bushing and ring coupling on the right side of the shaft.
25. Hold the clutch bushing with a 2.5mm hex screwdriver and position it so that the bushing moves no more than 0.5mm from left to right. Then tighten the 2 clutch screws.
26. Install the clutch springs inside the clutch bushing by rotating the springs clockwise. The spring must be installed in the groove of the clutch bushing.
27. Install the belt pulley by rotating it clockwise until it stops.
28. Install the plastic washer, followed by the metal washer. Install the balance wheel with the flat side facing the belt pulley.
30. Install the flywheel, making sure that the tabs on the flywheel fit into the slots on the balance wheel.
31. Insert the left end of the upper shaft through the belt into the mounting sleeve.
32. Thread the end of the upper shaft through the positioning washer, clamp, seal and counterweight. Remember that the single blade of the positioning washer should be on the right.
34. Move the release lever toward the front of the machine to protect it from impact from the clutch bushing.
35. Install the counterweight pin through the shaft (a 1.5mm hexagonal screwdriver can be used to strike). If the pin does not fit through the shaft, remove the pin, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, and reinstall the pin.
36. Position the machine with the counterweight facing forward. Move the shaft to the right, slide the lock to the left and tighten the lock screw.
37. Place the positioning washer in such a position that it is positioned with a single blade to the right and up. Install the washer and screw, move the positioning washer to the right or left so that the blades pass through the sensor without hitting it. Tighten the screw.
38. Install the winder with screw. Make sure the end of the spring fits into the molding hole as shown in the picture.
41. Place the white thread guide between the two black parts of the thread holder.
42. Secure the thread drive unit with screws A and B.
Settings
1. Remove the presser foot, needle and spool cap plate. Loosen the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).
2. Before adjusting the hook, make sure the presser foot is in the down position. Insert the needle from the left.
3. Adjust the hook and needle so that the nose of the hook is approximately 1 mm above the eye of the needle in the left needle position.
4. Tighten the 2 drive pulley lower shaft screws (2.5mm).
5. Install the bobbin case, needle plate and presser foot. Plug in the power cord and turn on the machine. Select a Zig Zag stitch (stitch #8). Turn the handwheel so that the needle begins to swing left and right. The needle should be 7.8 to 8.2 mm above the surface of the needle plate when rolling.
6. As a reference point, the needle should swing at the level of the presser foot when the presser foot is in the raised position.
7. To adjust, loosen the upper shaft positioning washer screw.
8. Turn the positioning washer in direction A if the needle tip is more than 8.2 mm above the needle plate and in direction B if the needle tip is less than 7.8 mm above the needle plate. Tighten the screw.
Installing the Side Cover
3. From the bottom of the machine, install screws A and B. Screw B is the smaller of the 2 screws located there.
Installing the Top Cover
1. To install the cover, press inward at the base of the handle and install the cover together with the handle.
Good luck with the renovation!
All the best, writeto © 2011
A sewing machine is an indispensable piece of equipment in every home. This applies equally to both old and new models. Don't be afraid to get started - the main thing is to know how to properly set up your sewing machine.
It is quite possible to carry out the debugging procedure for many sewing machines with your own hands - the instructions supplied with the equipment will help with this. And although many devices have the same principle of operation, the methods of regulation may differ.
Preparing for work
It is important to properly prepare the device for use. In the majority modern models special help with setup adjuster wheels, but sometimes you have to work manually. To do this, just adjust the position of the parts.
First, we set up the spring that presses the thread (winding onto the bobbin) - it is tightened so that the thread is prevented from unwinding by the bobbin cap. You need to achieve the required tension. The top thread runs through the entire system. During the process, the following thread movement algorithm is observed:
- metal ears;
- tension regulator;
- thread take-up lever hole;
- staples;
- needle eye.
Now let's deal with thread tension in a sewing machine. Correct installation will be provided by mechanisms located on the end panel for the lower thread and in the interlinear screw of the shuttle for the upper thread. The latter is done like this: disc-shaped shuttle washers are compressed by a screw - this is what should be tightened to achieve the desired result.
Afterwards the result is checked on a small piece of material:
- hanging loops indicate that they have overdone the tension on the top;
- in an even seam, nodules are examined (ideal ones are in the middle and cannot be palpated).
Relevant to work with foot pressure. Adjustment occurs with a spring. It is important to find the optimal “golden mean”:
- the large impact of this part on the material will displace the layers folded together, make it difficult to move and may even tear the fabric;
- weak pressure will produce an incorrect seam.
Before working on this part, you should definitely pay attention to the thickness of the material. In particularly “thick” cases, it is recommended to raise the foot up to 1.2 cm. And the thicker the fabric, the harder the foot should press.
Pedal operation value
In machines with an electric drive, the normal functioning of the device can be disrupted by deficiencies in the drive. The pedal contains speed regulator - if it breaks down, it may behave abnormally, for example, it may jump out of place even when pressed lightly.
You can fix the problem yourself: the graphite “tablets” are compressed together through a spring by a pressure lever, the resistance decreases and the rotation speed increases. In this case, it is enough to disassemble, clean and reassemble.
However, if even after this the machine does not restore normal operation of the speed controller, it means that it needs to be changed (most likely, the contacts have oxidized).
Other Important Points
It is worth paying attention to needle holder– the needle in it should be inserted firmly all the way with the large groove turned to the left. Does the machine have a tooth height adjuster? Then, with its help, it will be necessary to set the optimal height.
Be sure to pay attention to stitch length:
- 1-2 mm for thin thread;
- at least 3 mm for thick ones.
It is important and shuttle position: for example, Astralux 235 (like many other models of the brand) will have it with vertical installation, and setting up a Janome brand sewing machine involves working with a horizontally positioned shuttle. The following video instructions will help you understand this issue in more detail:
How to set up old-style sewing machines
You might be surprised how well old hand sewing techniques can sew. Having studied the intricacies of tuning, you can revive such a unit and enjoy the fruits of your labors. First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with operating principle of the device like a Singer or Podolsk sewing machine.
- The right side is represented by a wheel (another name is a winder). It is twisted by hand. The stitch length is adjusted using a lever located nearby.
- The shuttle can be found on the left, next to the presser foot with a needle.
- There are slats on the working surface that will advance the material while sewing.
How to properly set up a long-lived sewing machine? First they are selected needle and thread numbers– this will help you work with different types of fabric. Next, let's worry about quality stitching:
- regulation of the tensioned thread from below is similar to that of Janome; it can be done using a screw on the bobbin case;
- a special regulator tensions the upper thread (it is located near the lever that lowers the presser foot).
Before starting work, be sure to study the settings!
Gull
Setting up the “Chaika” sewing machine includes several important points. The main thing here is to install the needle and thread correctly from the very beginning. It all depends on the location of the latter.
In a relationship top thread you need to complete the following mandatory steps.
- Turn the knob to set the thread take-up mechanism in the highest position.
- It is inserted into its holder all the way - in this case, it should be turned with the flat side towards the rod with the foot. It is then secured with a screw.
- Now let’s start installing the spool of thread - we’ll place it on the intended rod.
- The thread will follow this path: thread guide - friction washers - thread tensioner - thread guide - needle holder. The final destination is the eye of the needle.
U bobbin thread the process will be a little simpler: it is wound onto a bobbin. The latter is inserted into the cap and brought out. The cap is inserted until a characteristic click sound appears. The handle of the machine is turned to adjust the thread tension, each thread is tucked under the presser foot.
Eat important rules when using the unit.
- Before starting work, the presser foot and needle are lowered.
- We turn the handle, directing it towards us.
- The machine is lubricated with the oil intended for this purpose.
- For work, only a fabric base suitable for all types of stitches is used.
- The Seagull has a disc with 4 positions. With thick fabric, these teeth will protrude strongly, but will hide during embroidery.
Podolsk
What many of today’s professionals like about the Podolsk brand of sewing machine is that this device is capable of sewing fairly dense and thick fabrics. You just need to configure it to work. First should be correct thread.
- The Podolsk winding device is located at the back, near the flywheel itself. The thread tension device itself is also connected to the winder (from the right corner of the platform). It is important to turn off the handwheel at this time so that the sewing part does not work. To do this, just turn the friction screw towards yourself.
- The bobbin is installed on the winder, and the thread spool is installed on the corresponding rod.
- The thread from the spool is passed under the washer at the tension device and directed upward to the bobbin.
- Now the frame of the winder goes down: at the pulley, the rim comes into contact with the flywheel.
- It is necessary to hold the free end of the thread until winding is completed. Correctly performed actions will help to do this smoothly.
The bobbin is inserted into the cap so that there is an oblique slot at the top. A thread will go through it to the spring, which at the end will go out again through the slot. All this is installed in the device, the free end of the thread is brought out. The shuttle device can be closed.
The needle is being installed with the needle bar in the upper position. The flat part of the bulb faces to the left, and the long groove of the blade faces to the right. Top part The thread starts when you turn the flywheel towards you and set the thread pulling lever to the highest position. All threading goes from the right and then to the left - from the spool to the eye of the needle. The lower thread is pulled outward by turning the handwheel - this will allow the needle to lower and grab the thread from the shuttle, and then rise up with it.
- The flywheel should be rotated towards you - from the working person. This will prevent the thread from getting tangled in the shuttle.
- When not in use, the presser foot should be raised.
- Before starting the device, there should already be fabric under the presser foot - “idling work” will dull the teeth.
- You cannot pull or push the working material - there is a risk that the needle will break.
- Close the plate tightly over the shuttle.
- "Podolsk" has 3 degrees of adjustment of teeth.
There is one more general advice for all old cars. New models have bobbin spring, but in outdated ones there is no such thing. One trick will help with setup: cut a circle out of fabric or thin paper, smaller in diameter than the bobbin. An axial hole is cut in its center. The circle is inserted into the bobbin case, sewing machine oil is dripped onto it, and then the bobbin is inserted there.
Preventive measures for the maintenance of devices
In order to resort to the setup procedure less often, it is enough to follow the simplest preventive measures for equipment care.
- Car needs lubrication once every six months to a year, this should only be done with a special means.
- But equipment must be protected from dust much more often. The procedure is simple: upon completion of the work, it is swept away from the surface, the shuttle cover and the needle plate.
- After finishing sewing, place a square of some thick paper under the foot. The presser foot and needle are lowered all the way.
- Before you hide the machine, you need to check whether there are any torn threads or fabrics left in it.
- Unused device kept under cover.
- For a machine with a drive, it is important to pay attention to the condition of the pedal and wire. If the wiring is constantly twisted, it will simply break inside.
Once a week I always get a call and a completely upset girl’s voice informs me that the newly purchased machine is completely broken and does not want to sew.
1. The most common “problem” is that the car suddenly starts to weave heavily. Loops 2 centimeters long are formed from below, they are wound around the shuttle and everything gets terribly tangled. Simple logic tells the young lady that since the loops are from below, then there is a problem with the bottom thread. After which, on the Internet there is advice about adjusting the lower thread and the inspired fairy unwinds the bobbin case, the parts scatter on the floor, and a sobbing, trembling voice is heard in my phone.
If you don’t get to the point of unscrewing the bobbin case, then the situation can be easily saved. All you need to do is correctly fill the top a thread.
The trouble is that many instructions do not clearly describe the procedure for threading the upper thread into the thread take-up. General principle Refills are most easily understood from the page from the instructions for Pfaff 1142:
The most important thing here is to raise the presser foot, turn the handwheel so that the thread take-up is in the upper position and thread the thread into the thread take-up.
If the machine still makes giant loops on the wrong side, check the threading again. More than once I have met ladies who swore with all the treasures of the world that everything was threaded correctly, that she had been sewing for a hundred years and could not make a mistake, and upon arrival our specialist discovered that the thread had not gotten into the thread take-up. After this, the ladies turned very red in the face, apologized profusely and gave him a hundred rubles for the trouble.
Correct threading allows you to cut off 99% of cases of strong looping on the wrong side. The remaining percentage may indeed be due to machine malfunction. Usually this effect is caused by burrs on the needle plate or in the shuttle and is best addressed to a qualified mechanic.
2. The second “problem” often arises among buyers of the Janome MyExcel w23u machine. Symptoms of a breakdown are as follows: the LED does not light up and the needle lift button does not work.
This “malfunction” can be treated very simply - you need to move the bobbin winder axis to the left position.
Another one is connected to the winder frequently asked question- Why doesn’t the bobbin snap off when winding is finished? Having become accustomed to this behavior of the winder on the Chaika, the buyer waits for a click and presses the pedal with all his might. However, in most modern machines, the bobbin does not unlatch. As winding proceeds, the rotation speed simply slows down and the winder stops.
3. Owners of machines like Janome 7518a (1221, etc.) often come to us with the question “Why does the machine sew slowly and growls loudly?”
These cars have a switch on the pedal that limits the maximum speed. You can accidentally press it with your foot and not notice it. If the car growls at you, just check the position of this switch.
4. If the stitching turns out to be “loose”, there is no tension in the upper thread, pronounced loops are visible from the inside, and the lower thread is stretched by a string - rethread the machine with the presser foot raised. Perhaps the thread did not get into the tensioner plates. Another reason is that a piece of thread or other debris has gotten into the tensioner plates and is preventing them from coming together. Try, with the presser foot raised, to clean the space between the plates with a piece of thick thread.
If the bobbin thread tension is lost, check to see if debris has gotten under the tensioner spring on the bobbin case (bobbin holder). Do not attempt to clean under this plate with a needle or other metal objects. If you scratch the shuttle, you will be tortured to repair it. Better take a toothpick.
5. I have two favorite questions - why the stitching is herringbone and why you can see the “dots” from the top thread. There is only one answer to these questions - you need to use threads of the appropriate thickness.
I like the seams on my shirts. Smooth, straight, you’ll just admire them. Now you can see what threads are used to sew a good men’s shirt and compare their thickness with a “magpie” from the store. It turns out that the threads on the shirt are twice as thin. At the same time, shirt fabric is not the thinnest. The problem is that it is very difficult to find high-quality threads on sale with a thickness less than No. 50. On suiting fabrics and with a stitch length of 3 millimeters, the “magpie” gives an ideal stitch on almost any machine. And if you try to sew thin silk with a needle No. 90, threads No. 40 and stitches 1.5 mm long, the “Christmas tree” will appear in all its glory, regardless of the design of the shuttle.
“Herringbone” must be on any lockstitch machine, since the upper and lower thread intertwined with a “rope”. It is enough to mentally remove the fabric from the seam and imagine how the threads are intertwined, it becomes obvious where the “herringbone” comes from. The herringbone becomes almost invisible if the interweaving of threads is formed deep between the layers of fabric, and for this the thread should be no thicker than the warp thread. Also, the visibility of the Christmas tree is affected by the length of the stitch. It is possible (on industrial machines) to reduce the visibility of the “herringbone” on the front side if you slightly rotate the needle around its axis, but then on the back the “herringbone” will become more noticeable.
6. Pulling of the fabric when sewing zig-zag and decorative stitches is also not a malfunction. The laws of physics cannot be abolished, and if you try to perform a wide zig-zag with a “magpie” pattern on a thin and loose fabric, then only an adhesive stabilizer will help to avoid contraction. You can, of course, try to loosen the tension of both threads and take thinner threads, but a radical method is a stabilizer.
7. A knocking sound when sewing at the time of puncture is in most cases caused by a dull or unsuitable needle. Correct selection needle gauge is especially important when sewing from thick fabrics. A universal needle with a rounded tip cannot move apart the tightly woven fibers of the material, and punches a hole with a knock. For such fabrics, you need to have sharp needles marked Jeans and Microtex in stock. After replacing the needle, the knocking, in most cases, disappears.
8.
Another “problem” that customers regularly encounter is the lack of a foot for making buttonholes in the kit. It's easy to find - it lies separately from the main set of legs, in a removable table under a hinged lid. Janome overlockers often “lose” the converter for two-thread seams. It is unsuccessfully packaged in a bag, separate from other personal belongings, and hangs on a pin for installing coils.
IN computer machines Husqvarna Emerald sometimes “lost” an entire pedal! The manufacturer has provided for it comfortable spot inside the case.
9. I also remembered the “problem” with turning off the teeth of the fabric conveyor. The teeth are perfectly turned off by the corresponding switch, they fall down, but they don’t want to come back, no matter how much you click the button. The casket opens simply - the conveyor teeth rise to the working position after a full revolution of the flywheel. All you have to do is move the switch back and start sewing.
If I remember anything interesting, I’ll add it here.