How to repair a basement apartment building? Foundation plinth repair

DIY basement repair of a brick house

When looking at a house, it is often perceived as a single whole, losing sight of seemingly insignificant details. After all, a couple of cracks or a few crumbled bricks on a base 0.5 m high do not play any significant role, and, nevertheless, even inconspicuous defects on it will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, basement repair brick house(the actual basement of any house) should not be perceived as additional cosmetic measures when repairing a building, but as full-fledged work aimed at protecting housing from destruction.

Basement as an element of a building

The plinth is perceived simply as the lower part of the wall, having exclusively aesthetic significance. However, it is more correct to consider it as a structural element that is part of the outer wall, and in some cases as the last protective line of the foundation and the entire building.

Plinth is the lowest above-ground part of a building or part of it (for example, columns, racks). May be part of a foundation raised above the ground, part of a foundation wall, or an exterior part ground floor. It performs several functions:

• structural - is the reinforced part of the building on which its weight rests;
• decorative - creates an edge on the wall (can be recessed, protruding or flush), emphasizing the features of the house;
• protective - protects the walls of the house from the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena and mechanical damage.

The base must have a sufficient height, at least 30 -50 cm; too low/narrow (less than 20 cm) will not fulfill its protective functions, and as a decorative detail it will be quite dubious.

The lower edge of the plinth is installed at a height of at least 10 cm above ground level, which allows you to create a slope from the wall of the house. This facilitates the drainage of rainwater and reduces the impact of moisture on the foundation and walls.

Reasons for the destruction of the base

Signs indicating the beginning of destruction of the base include the formation of cracks, the appearance of fungus, peeling plaster, and falling off tiles. All this indicates mistakes made during the design, construction or operation of the building and the need to begin repairing the basement. There are several reasons causing destruction:

1. House shrinkage can be caused by the type of soil, technological errors in the manufacture of the foundation, or a mismatch between the foundation design and the weight of the building.
2. Impact of groundwater - during the design, the level of groundwater was not determined or the level of groundwater was ignored, waterproofing was not performed at the proper level and, as a result, the building was subject to flooding. This will lead to the gradual destruction of the foundation, basement and the entire building.
3. Atmospheric phenomena (rain, snow) - as a rule, have a detrimental effect if the blind area was performed incorrectly or poorly.
4. Biological corrosion, or rather microbiological, is caused by the development on the surface building materials various types microorganisms, which include algae (causing a green coating), mold (gray-black coating) or lichens arising from symbiotic hyperplasia of fungus and algae (green-black coating). This phenomenon not only worsens the aesthetics of the base, but also spreads to the facade, and after some time leads to mechanical damage.

The impact of some of the above factors can be avoided if you consult with specialists when designing a house.

Do-it-yourself basement repair

With some dexterity and construction skills, you can repair the basement of a house with your own hands. Work is carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, you should choose the time. The best time will be the end of spring or the beginning of summer, when the ground has dried out, the weather has settled, and warm days prevail.

Then you should clean the surface and assess the damage. To do this, you need to sweep the base and blind area with a broom and carefully inspect the surface. In this case, you can tap it, the “boiling” places must be removed. You should also remove any parts that are falling off and use a wire brush to remove loose fragments of the structure.

If a large part of the base needs restoration, then instead of repairing it, it is better to build a new one.

You should carefully examine the blind area; if it is severely damaged around the entire building, peeled off from the foundation, then it should be completely replaced. The old blind area is removed, cleaned and a trench about forty centimeters deep is created, then a 20 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured and compacted. Geotextiles are spread over this layer and sprinkled with a layer of sand on top. After this, holes are drilled in the foundation (every 50 cm) into which reinforcement is driven. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it. Formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, you can begin repairing the base. If you need to completely redo the base, then you will need to secure a reinforcing mesh around the perimeter of the building. Holes are drilled in the wall for the reinforcement pins, in one or two rows, depending on the given height, into which the reinforcement rods are driven, so long and to such a depth that the mesh mounted on them is in the body of the base. Then the surface is carefully primed with a deep penetration primer (twice), after which the formwork is installed. It is best to use laminated, moisture-resistant plywood as formwork. After this, concrete is poured into the formwork to evenly distribute and compact it; you can use a reinforcement rod. The formwork can be dismantled after a week.

If the thickness of the planned layer does not allow for work on reinforcement, installation of formwork, and subsequent pouring of concrete, then the base can be repaired by plastering it. An exhaust mesh is attached to the wall using dowels, on top of which, for ease of work, plaster beacons are installed. Then the surface is primed twice and plaster is applied to it. A cement plaster mortar is used, which is applied in the same way as for conventional wall plastering.

In cases where it is possible to get by with repairing individual areas, the order of work is slightly different. Areas that need restoration are thoroughly cleaned and primed. Then the exhaust mesh is attached directly to them with dowels, so that it does not protrude from the recess formed at the site of the repaired area. After this, the surface is again treated with primer and leveled with a layer of plaster mortar. To make it more convenient to apply the plaster, you can use plaster beacons, and in small areas, undamaged areas of the base can be used as a guide.

To make the surface uniform, after grouting the plaster, you can walk over the joints with a hard sponge dipped in water.

Restoration and strengthening of the foundation can be seen in this video:

Base protection

After the base has been repaired, it is advisable to think about protecting it in the future. Despite the fact that the work on its repair is not extremely difficult, it is still a dubious pleasure to deal with its restoration every year. There are several options for protecting the base and, as a result, the foundation - from budget to quite expensive.

Bitumen mastic - you can purchase ready-made or prepare it yourself. The resin is mixed with diesel fuel and heated over a fire. Then the completely dried base is covered with this mixture. The option is cheap, but not practical - the coating will be easily soiled, and over time all kinds of debris will stick to it and you can forget about the attractive appearance of the house.

Mosaic plaster – best option. Consists of small pebbles and adhesive material based on various resins. It has frost resistance, vapor permeability and high resistance to mechanical damage.

Natural facing materials - mainly granite, sandstone, slate, travertine are used. The option is expensive, but the most attractive in terms of aesthetics. In addition, if the facing work is carried out by professionals and of high quality, then the base will be provided with very good protection.

Artificial facing materials are perhaps the most common option. Clinker or concrete tiles at a relatively low price, it has high protective qualities and an attractive appearance.

It is best to worry about the safety of the basement of the house at the design stage, but if due to some circumstances this turned out to be not enough, and it requires restoration, then there is nothing wrong with that. Repairing the basement of a house with your own hands is a completely doable task.

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Basement repair - step-by-step instructions

The basement of the building is exposed to aggressive influence of many factors. It needs repair more often than other areas. You can’t delay with her. After all, the destruction of the base reduces the durability of the entire structure.

To prevent damage to the plaster from leading to the growth of mold and preventing moisture from destroying the wall, you need to correct the situation and promptly repair the basement of the building. As a rule, it consists of restoration of seams and new plastering of certain areas. Sometimes when repairing the basement of a brick house you have to replace individual bricks.

Step-by-step instruction

First, free the lower part of the wall from contact with the ground. A shovel is used for this.

Then remove all fragments of plaster that do not adhere well; you must try not to miss any voids; they can be identified by tapping. All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.

Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Use a wire brush to thoroughly remove all remaining plaster. How to perform this work, you can look at the photo or video.

All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape. He will protect important areas from pollution.

Detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the brick plinth lining. This is necessary to ensure better contact of the plaster mixture with the surface.

To fill the existing voids, you should select bricks of the appropriate size. Can be cut from aerated concrete blocks fragments the right size.

The next stage of repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and secure them with masonry mortar.

Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened. To do this, you can take a bucket and a brush, but it’s easier and faster to wet the wall with water from a hose.

Then a solution (waterproofing slurry) is prepared for waterproofing. The mixture is diluted clean water.

The solution is applied to the restored areas in 2 passes. First, a thin layer of 1 - 2 mm, when the first layer begins to set, apply a second layer of 3 mm. In this case, you can use a brush or a wide spatula.

The applied layers must stand for 24 hours. You can continue working the next day.

Then a solution for plaster is prepared.

Perform a 2-layer application again. First, apply a layer of 10 mm. The plaster is rubbed forcefully over the surface, moving the spatula in a semicircle.

To ensure that the walls are ultimately smooth, it is advisable to use plaster strips, when installing which you should use a level. These planks come in several varieties. In this case they are made of wood.

The next layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of 15 - 20 mm.

The plaster is carefully applied over the entire surface; it is advisable to fill the entire surface with it down to the foundation. Then it will be possible to talk about complete and quality repairs plinth plaster.

The base point for removing excess mortar will be not only the plaster strips, but also the intact layer of cladding, as in the photo.

When the surface dries, it is leveled using a plaster float.

To beautifully decorate the corner, plaster strips are used. By attaching the strip to the appropriate corner, you can align the end of the wall. The bar is then removed.

Practical advice! To make a homogeneous transition in structure from the old plaster to the new, you can treat the joints with polystyrene foam.

The last stage of repairing the basement of a private house is to treat the surfaces in contact with the ground. To do this, you can use waterproofing slurry or bitumen mastic.

Repairing the base yourself is not difficult. As a result, you can breathe new life into an old building.

kvartira.mirtesen.ru

How to repair the basement of a building with your own hands

We can say with complete confidence that it is the basement of any building that is exposed to the most aggressive influence of a number of factors. This causes it to wear out quickly and require repairs. Otherwise, the entire building is at risk.

Timely renovation work They help prevent the spread of mold and prevent the destruction of walls under the influence of high levels of humidity. In some cases, it may even be necessary to replace individual bricks, which must be taken into account.

Preparatory stage

When starting to repair the base with your own hands, you first need to use a shovel to remove the soil in contact with bottom walls. After this you need to delete old plaster, which does not hold up well enough. It is also important not to miss the voids that arise. A hammer and chisel are perfect for solving these problems. With the help of such tools, you can lightly tap to get rid of old material.

Next, you need to clean the wall from dirt, dust and minor plaster residues that were not removed after completion. previous works. This is best done with a special brush with fairly stiff wire bristles. You can purchase such a tool at any hardware store.

To protect window frames or door slopes, it is recommended to pre-glue them with masking tape.

Filling voids

Before starting active work, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten all detected damage with ordinary water. Thanks to this, the plaster will adhere to the surface much better.

Aerated concrete blocks are perfect for filling voids. This material is lightweight, durable and reliable. In addition, you can quite easily cut bricks of the required size from it.

The prepared blanks will need to be installed in the voids. They can be secured using masonry mortar. The prepared surface is wetted again with water. To do this, simply water the wall with a hose.

Plastering works

A special waterproofing solution will help ensure the restored plinth has proper performance characteristics. To prepare it, you need to dilute the prepared dry mixture with ordinary water.

The solution is applied to the wall twice. The first layer should be quite thin. And after it dries, you can start applying the second one. Optimal thickness– 3 mm. A brush or a wide spatula is perfect for this purpose. In order for this material to dry completely, you need to leave it for one day.

The next day you can do plastering work. Also suitable for this special composition. In this case, a two-layer application is again used. The width of the first of them is about 10 mm. Ready material applied to the walls using a spatula using active circular movements.

To finished surface was really level, it is best to use special plaster strips and a level. This simple set will make the base perfect.

The second layer of plaster can reach a thickness of 20 mm. After applying it, excess material will need to be removed using one of the strips. And in order for the material to dry well, you should leave it for at least a couple of days.

How to finish a base

You can get rid of minor defects using a plaster float. And you can give an attractive appearance to a corner not only through the use of planks, but also through a special corner spatula. It has a specific shape, which makes the process of performing work simple and comfortable.

The last stage is the processing of that part of the base that will come into contact with the ground. It should be highly resistant to wear. That is why it is recommended to apply products such as bitumen mastic or waterproofing slurry to the wall.

At this point, do-it-yourself basement repair can be considered complete. As a result of such simple manipulations, you will be able to restore its attractiveness and reliability.

Video “How to repair a basement”

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Repair of the basement of a brick house - reasons and sequence of work

Good afternoon. After the winter, around the beginning of May, I was faced with the problem of the destruction of the basement of the house on summer cottage. In some places, cracks up to 2-3 cm deep were found. Somewhere the outer concrete surface has partially or completely collapsed. The house was built more than 5 years ago. The main materials for building a house are foam blocks and sand-lime bricks. The type of foundation is strip. When laying the foundation, waterproofing and a soft blind area were installed. Tell me, what is the reason for such serious collapses of the basement, because last year everything was fine? What methods and approaches can be used to restore a damaged surface? How to repair the basement of a brick house without contacting construction companies?

Hello. When spring comes, the described problem occurs especially often. In your case, what you should pay close attention to is the service life of the structure and the severity of the problems that arise.

That is, damage and defects caused by external factors problems that arise without your participation began to appear already 5 years after the building was put into operation. This is a short period of time. From this we can conclude that some mistakes may have been made or some nuances may not have been taken into account during the construction of the building.

Additionally, I would like to know the type of base. This does not play a particularly big role, but it can make some adjustments to repair it. We will assume that the basement structure is protruding or is in the same plane as the load-bearing wall. We do not take into account the sinking base, since it is erected quite rarely, although it is a more reliable solution.

The main types of basement structures in the construction of private and country houses

The main causes and possible problems of damage to the basement of a building include the following:

• Shrinkage of a building is a natural process that occurs and depends on the type of foundation, design and weight of the building. The average shrinkage period is 1-1.5 years. With heaving and soft types of soil, the process may take 1.5-2 years. The noticeability of shrinkage is most pronounced in brick and private houses made of heavy materials;
• Soil type - heaving and clayey types of soil used as the basis for building a house may require time for compaction and settlement. Sandy soil is characterized by fairly rapid settlement, which largely depends on the size of sand grains and the groundwater level. Draft clay soil flows somewhat more slowly due to the high density of the soil;
• High level groundwater - the level of occurrence is determined at the design stage of the building. Partially affects the type of foundation, the depth of the load-bearing foundation and the implementation of additional insulation work. Ignoring the burial level can lead to a decrease in the service life of the foundation, flooding and general damage to load-bearing elements;
• Poor-quality blind area - failure to comply with the technology of the device can lead to flooding of the basement of the house, damage to the foundation and plinth. The type of structure is selected based on the occurrence of groundwater, soil type and load-bearing foundation;
• Problems with communications - damage and leakage of the central water supply with further enrichment of the soil with moisture can cause destruction of the supporting foundation, flooding of the basement and ground floor;
• Failure to comply with technology - carrying out work without taking into account building codes and regulations is the main cause of most of the problems and damage that arise. The absence of such construction work as waterproofing the basement of the building and the foundation quickly leads to the formation of cracks, chips and general destruction of these elements.

Repair of the basement for private and country houses should be carried out only after the causes of the damage have been identified and eliminated. Otherwise, after repairing and restoring the damaged areas, the problem will not disappear, which will lead to the formation of new, even more serious flaws.

Determining the causes of deformation

Damage can vary in nature - from simple cracks to complete collapse of the structure.

Based on the fact that in your case, during the construction of a private house, the foundation was insulated and no flooding of the basement and basement was noticed, we can conclude that the damage to the building’s basement was caused by moisture penetration through soft blind area.

This type the adjacent structure does not meet all requirements and provides a rather low level of protection. In most cases, soft look constructed as a decorative element with limited protective functions.

Most likely, you thought that the waterproofing of the base was sufficient to protect the foundation from moisture. But in practice it turned out somewhat differently - the blind area, which should prevent and remove moisture from the load-bearing base part, did not cope with the assigned task.

Perhaps the problem is more pronounced, but without examining the structure and additional information, it is difficult to draw a conclusion based only on the facts received from you. Therefore, it is recommended to conduct an independent audit and exclude possible causes.

Shrinkage of the building can be completely excluded, since the construction of the house was completed more than 3-5 years ago. The type of foundation soil was taken into account when designing the building, which eliminates the cause of the load-bearing foundation being too low.

Strengthening an existing structure is the most effective method repair and restoration

You can check the groundwater level yourself. The easiest way is to check the depth of water in existing wells on the site or adjacent territory. With sufficient depth (more than 15 meters), it is possible to completely eliminate the fact that moisture constantly penetrates through the soil.

For an additional check, you will need to dig a small trench to the depth of the foundation and monitor the accumulation of water. If after 3-5 days no accumulation of water occurs, then groundwater does not wash away the foundation and the cause of destruction is different.

The accumulation of even a small amount of water may indicate that the supporting base is periodically or constantly exposed to moisture, which, rising through the soil, is absorbed into the surface of the base, thereby reducing its service life, leading to damage.

In your case, without identifying any additional reasons, the lack of a reliable water barrier in the form of a high-quality blind area led to the fact that the base was exposed to moisture for 5 years. Hence the formation of cracks and collapse of the outer covering.

Repair work technology

Repairs and restoration of damaged areas on the surface of the base can be performed using various technologies. But regardless of the repair method, protecting the basement of the house should begin with the construction of a blind area.

The protective blind area should have several underlying layers based on fine-grained sand and crushed stone. As an outer layer, it is desirable to use concrete, which is reinforced with a metal mesh.

The most effective technology for repairing and strengthening the basement of private houses is pouring or applying concrete mortar over a reinforcing structure made of thick metal mesh, steel pipes or fittings.

To complete the work you will need to purchase welded mesh with cells 10×10 mm and wire thickness of at least 5 mm. When using reinforcement, you can focus on similar parameters and use material with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The material can be knitted with steel wire 4 mm thick.

Basic materials for the frame used in the restoration of the old base

In places where the damage is not severe and reinforcement of the structure is not required, the old surface will be reinforced with a conventional all-metal expanded metal mesh up to 1 mm thick.

The tool you will need to use is a hammer, chisel, sledgehammer, hammer drill, etc. It is best to mix the solution using a concrete mixer. This is in better side affect the quality of the mixture. The proportions of the solution are 1 part M500-600 cement to 3 parts fine-grained sand.

For formwork, you can use old plywood or metal sheets, wooden boards, hammered into panels or any other building materials.

Do-it-yourself repair work can be done using the following technology:

Dismantling of the formwork is carried out after a few days and depends on the average daily air temperature. At a temperature of 15-20 °C - 4-5 days, at 10-15 °C - 6-7 days. IN general cases, after repairing the surface of the plinth, we recommend waiting for at least a week and only then removing the formwork.

For partial repair, the execution technology has a slightly different sequence. This method can be used both for restoring the surface of apartment buildings and for repairing personal buildings.

It will be necessary to clean, clean and prime the surface in one layer. Next, the exhaust mesh is stuffed and re-primed in one or two layers. As a guide when leveling, you can use a stretched cord or plaster beacons, which are fixed to the plaster. The installation step should be smaller than the tool to level the mixture.

After leveling, after about 4-8 hours, the surface is moistened and rubbed using a felt grater. For best drying, the base part is covered with a matte material that protects against direct contact sun rays and making the drying process more natural.

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otdelkaexp.ru

Repairing the base with your own hands and further covering it

When the time comes to repair the basement of a country building, many homeowners start to panic because of this. But there is no need to exaggerate, because the repair of the base, and even its further cladding, can be done with your own hands without any special difficulties.

Repair work on the base should be taken very seriously, because it is this structural element of any building that performs the task of protecting the foundation from moisture penetration, which leads to its destruction. If the base is missing or in poor condition, then the foundation of the building and its lower masonry will certainly begin to fall apart, and this will lead not only to increased humidity inside the room, but also to a deterioration in the quality of floors, walls, etc. Under such circumstances, the formation of cracks and serious chips, rotting of floors and gradual collapse of walls are possible.

Based on this, it is simply necessary to carry out timely repairs to the basement of a country house.

If your base has been in unusable condition for several years, there is no need to be upset; by following further instructions, you will restore it in just a couple of days.

At the initial stage of repair work

The most suitable period for carrying out such work is a dry and warm season, but preferably without much heat. As a rule, this is the first half of summer; of course, it all depends on what region your suburban area. Experts recommend starting to repair the basement in early spring, immediately after it dries out due to the fresh wind after the snow melts. For example, you can start repair work at the end of May, then you won’t be too hot, and the temperature for cladding the base will be acceptable.

But before you start repairing the base, you need to prepare the material:

• fittings;
• metal grid;
• gravel;
• boards for formwork construction;
• cement;
• sand;
• waterproofing material;
• Rabitz;
• primer.

Tool:

• hammer;
• nails;
• shovel;
• welding machine;
• container for preparing the solution;
• trowel and spatula;
• brush;
• dowels

Carrying out repairs in cold or rainy weather, as well as at elevated temperatures, is strictly prohibited, because in order for the solution to adhere well to the base material and dry evenly, a stable temperature is needed.

Before starting repair work, it is necessary to prepare the place where it will be carried out. To do this, you need to carefully remove the exfoliated parts of the base (collapsed brick) and remove all debris. Then it is necessary to inspect the blind area, because it plays a significant role not only in protecting the base of the foundation, but also in the appearance of the entire structure.

If, after examining the blind area, you do not find any defects on it, then you can simply carry out minor cosmetic repairs, otherwise you will have to refill the blind area.

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Construction of a new blind area

The blind area should be approximately 4-6 cm above ground level, and the depth should be at least 20 cm. The width may vary, so determine its value yourself.

So, we dig out a place to build a blind area and clean the foundation of the house. When creating a blind area, it is very important to know that it should have a slight slope from the building; this is done so that water can freely flow away from its foundation.

After preparing the site, it is necessary to perform maximum connection to the foundation by nailing reinforcement to it. Then we weld a metal mesh to the mounted fittings using a welding machine. The base for pouring the blind area must be made with high quality.

After the reinforcement and mesh are ready for pouring, it is necessary to make a gravel cushion with a thickness of at least 15 cm. We install the formwork to the height of pouring the blind area, after which we fill everything with cement mortar.

It should be noted that before filling the blind area, you need to apply a layer of waterproofing material to the foundation. For this purpose, as a rule, hot bitumen is used. If you want to create a stronger structure for the blind area, you can lay a couple of layers of metal mesh and fill it with concrete mortar.

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Direct repair of the basement

After the old base has been chipped and all contaminants have been removed from it, a blind area has been constructed in a new way that fits tightly to the foundation, you can proceed directly to repairing the base.

First of all, over the entire surface of the base you need to fill a steel reinforcing mesh with a small mesh. It is allowed to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. When installing the mesh, it is recommended to immediately shape it, based on the fact that it will be held in place by a layer of mortar. To do this, use dowels to correct the even vertical position of the mesh.

When repairing the base, you should not forget about priming its surface. You can apply the primer directly through the reinforcing mesh so that it gets on both it and the rough surface. If you do not have the funds to purchase a primer mixture, you must thoroughly moisten the surface before applying the solution.

After the primer has dried, using a liquid solution, pour it tightly onto the mesh so that the cement mortar penetrates through the mesh and fills all the cavities on the surface of the base. To do this, you don’t need to rush; on the contrary, you should do everything very carefully, and if necessary, press the mixture inside the mesh, thus filling all the depressions and cavities. And in this order we carry out repairs to the base along the entire perimeter, while the thickness of the mortar layer should be such that the reinforcing mesh will be slightly visible through it.

It is recommended to wait a little time for the layer of solution to harden, and then you can proceed to final finishing base Depending on the availability of funds and your choice, further work on the repair of the base may be carried out. various materials. This could be further plastering with another layer of cement mortar, or you can use decorative plaster or other finishing materials.

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A simple way to finish a base

So, repair of a panel base or brick building completed, now let’s put its front part in order. You can protect the base from the harmful effects of atmospheric phenomena using bitumen or other special mixtures, but the simplest and fairly reliable method is the “old-fashioned” method.

In an old, unnecessary container, heat the resin mixed with diesel fuel over a fire. This mixture must be heated slowly over low heat. By slowly stirring, bring the mixture to the consistency of jelly, this way you will prepare a high-quality finishing solution, which was used everywhere in the old days. Using a large brush round shape Apply the mixture evenly in a thick layer to the surface of the base.

There is another one of the cheapest and easiest ways to finish the base - applying plaster and then painting it. The plastered surface can be painted in any color. Today, it is very common to apply plaster imitating different surfaces. The ability to experiment with dyes added directly to the plaster allows you to achieve sufficient interesting options decorative cladding of the surface of your base.

Significant and only drawback this method finishing is the short service life of the resulting coating. Due to negative atmospheric influences and a certain load on the foundation itself, after a few years you will need to perform the first cosmetic repairs.

Nothing lasts forever, especially if it is made by human hands. This rule does not bypass the human home, so from time to time you have to do minor repairs of varying complexity. Repairing the basement of a building is considered one of the most difficult repairs, although this statement can safely be called a myth, which was invented by those who did not repair the stove in winter or drainage system after the rain.

Scheme of moistening the walls with subsequent freezing: a – from the destruction of the protective coating of the base; b – from destruction of waterproofing.

At the first signs of damage, it is necessary to begin repairing the basement so that this in no way affects the foundation of the building, and then the house itself. When this part of the structure is destroyed, a direct path opens to the foundation, and with it to the house itself (brickwork, monolith, shell rock, etc.), which initially leads to a strong increase in humidity in the room, then the destruction of the walls and foundation , and after that to a total renovation or construction of a new house. The destruction process takes many years, but you shouldn’t wait for them and, as soon as the first signs of imminent repair are discovered, you need to start it right away.

Visually, this need is determined by cracks and chips.

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Preparing for the restoration of the basement of the house

1. Hammer.
2. Hammer.
3. Broom.
4. Scrub brush.

Repairs should begin in the warm, dry season, and windy weather will have a particularly favorable effect. The reason for such loyalty to the wind is simple - even a small draft allows you to quickly dry the site of future work. It is necessary not only for the street to be dry, but also for the air not to be humid, then the work with cement will go exactly as planned. At very low or, conversely, high temperatures, work is also impossible, because they will negatively affect physical properties cement solution when hardening (optimally + 20-25°C in the shade).

The process begins with destruction - all the places where cracks and chips were noticed are beaten off with a hammer, but there is no need to try to go deeper than planned - the area is simply cleaned and the debris is carefully removed (it is better to go through it carefully at the end to finally get rid of the dust) . Sometimes situations arise where more than 60% of the plinth needs to be removed, so it makes sense to remove everything and update the exterior of the house.

After this, you can move on to the blind area around the house, because... they are interconnected. If the blind area does not require serious repairs, then a small cosmetic intervention is enough. If serious repairs are needed at least in one place, then you will have to break up the entire area (a hammer drill and a crowbar are ideal companions for this). Next comes the complete cleaning of the site from debris.

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Repair work

1. Concrete solution m300 (cement, sand, gravel, water).
2. Cement mortar m300 (cement, sand, water).
3. Reinforcing mesh.
4. Primer.
5. Dowels with screws.
6. Sand.
7. Water.
8. Edged board.
9. Plaster.
10. Decoration Materials.

First of all, the formwork is poured.

The already cleaned area is deepened by 5 cm, leveled and compacted until smooth. Usually the formwork is removed from the house by 20-30 cm at the request of the owner. The height of the formwork is no more than 1 edged board.

After that, a sand cushion 5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is compacted or watered. When watering with water, you need to wait 2-3 days for complete drying.

It is best to pour M300 concrete solution, because... it will provide an ideal balance between cost and durability. When pouring, you need to ensure a slope of 8-10°C from the house so that the water runs down the blind area and does not stagnate at the foundation.

The time for hardening of the blind area is 18-20 days in a dry climate and temperature of 20-25°C.

After this comes the most interesting part of the work - restoring the basement of the house. The process is quite labor-intensive, but interesting.

For local repairs, it is enough to simply apply the solution and replace the part of the base of interest, but these are exceptional cases, because repairs are almost always general.

First of all, a reinforcing mesh with a fine mesh is stretched. When fixing, you need to give it the highest possible stability, for which screws with dowels are successfully used.

The second step will be priming the surface. The process takes place directly on top of the reinforcing mesh so that the solution gets not only onto the base, but also onto the network itself, which is important.

Next, a thin layer of cement mortar is applied. When applied, it will have to be pressed through the mesh, and after application is completed, the reinforcing component will only be slightly visible. Further work will continue after the solution dries, which takes 3-5 days.

Then a layer of plaster is applied. Another layer of cement mortar or decorative plaster is applied to the plaster on top, depending on the owner’s preferences.

At the end of the work, the base is finished, which varies in price.

Inexpensive finishing material is made at home - resin and diesel fuel are mixed over low heat in a good steel bucket. Stirring slowly, you need to bring the contents of the bucket to the state of jelly, after which it can be applied to the base with a round brush in an even thick layer. Such protection will hold up no worse than any modern materials, but the design is a little weak.

The more expensive approach almost always uses natural or fake diamond, which is mounted on a special glue. Sometimes you can find tiles and decorative plaster, but the most reliable of these options will undoubtedly be natural stone.

If you carry out an inspection of the entire building once a year, eliminating problems along the way, then the house will stand for hundreds of years without any special whims.

The plinth is the outer part of the foundation, the basis of the facade walls. If it is cracked due to shrinkage or simply worn out over time, it needs to be repaired. Repairing the basement cannot be put off for a long time; this can lead to an emergency.

Basement repair work

Reasons why the base collapses:

shrinkage - for brick and concrete structures in the first year, for wooden ones - throughout the life of the house;

ground movements, frost heaving;

non-compliance with technology during the laying process, incorrect calculation;

climatic factors - frost, rain, snow, wind;

proximity to soil water;

poorly executed blind area or its destruction.

Repair has several goals:

• restoration of bearing capacity, strengthening the strength of the foundation itself and the entire house;
• insulation of the lower part of the facade and basement floor from the outside;
• waterproofing and mechanical protection;
• restoration of aesthetic appearance.

There are three main types of repairs: current, major and cosmetic.

The current one involves updating the cladding, heat and waterproofing layers. Since the basement part is located in the most aggressive conditions (it takes on maximum loads and is influenced by both atmospheric and soil factors), wear occurs faster than the rest of the cottage. It is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition, update damaged layers, protect the interior space of the basement floor and the inside of the foundation from adverse influences.

A major repair of the basement is necessary when the structure of the base itself is damaged: large cracks, chips have appeared, large pieces have crumbled, and the corners of the house have sagged unevenly. In this case, it is better if a professional company does the repair work: firstly, they have the appropriate qualifications and equipment, and secondly, they are obliged to correct defects and work defects free of charge if they appear.

Cosmetic repairs involve improving the appearance of the base: restoring paint, plaster or other finishing, replacing one cladding with another.

Do-it-yourself basement repair at home

Work should be carried out in dry weather, in summer or spring, but not in the heat. Rain and low/excessive high temperatures impair adhesion mortar, moisture negates efforts to waterproof and insulate. First you need to assess the condition of the blind area: if it is badly damaged, it is dismantled and a new one is poured after the repair work is completed.

Procedure for repairing the base yourself:

1. Knock down the old plaster to the base, remove worn thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.
2. Thoroughly clean the base from dirt, mildew, and mold.
3. Treat with an antiseptic.
4. Large cracks before plastering should be filled with crushed stone or broken bricks.
5. Secure the reinforcing metal mesh with dowels.
6. Prime the surface along with the mesh.
7. Mix the concrete and treat the surface. Repair mother-in-law's cracks and chips.
8. Apply finishing plaster and completely cover the mesh with it. Dry the base for a month until the concrete has completely set.
9. Lay waterproofing material and insulation.
10. Cover with facing material - finishing panels, tiles, corrugated sheets, etc.
11. Fill the blind area: a layer of concrete 5-8 cm. A small sand and gravel cushion should be poured under the concrete and a layer of roofing material should be laid. It is recommended to add small crushed stone to the solution. The blind area is reinforced with metal mesh and poured with a slope from the wall outward.

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Causes of destruction

• Uneven shrinkage of the foundation. Occurs due to subsidence of heaving or soft type soil, the weight of the building, poorly executed blind area. Multi-apartment brick buildings are most susceptible to this process.
• Close occurrence of groundwater and, as a result, erosion of the foundation of the house. This is due to the fact that this nuance was not included in the construction project.
• Poor quality building materials and violation of building codes.
• Trees planted close to the house with a powerful root system, undermining the blind area of ​​the building.
• Communication problems. In the case when there is a breakthrough in the central water supply system and flooding of the foundation or the sewage system is poorly constructed.
• Climatic phenomena (wind, frost, rain) and microbiological influences - the appearance of molds and lichens, which leads to mechanical destruction brickwork.

To repair the basement and brick facade with your own hands, you must first determine the degree of destruction and outline the list of work. If the facade and blind area are damaged in places, there are no progressive cracks in the base, then cosmetic repairs are made. In the case where the damage to the blind area is more global or it has moved away from the base, it should be replaced completely. When the building shrinks and the cracks increase, it is recommended to completely strengthen and strengthen the foundation.

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What do you need for work?

For some types of work, fittings may be needed.

If you plan to repair the facade of a brick apartment building or private building, you must first clear the construction waste surfaces, remove damaged areas on which restoration will be carried out. Depending on the repair technology, prepare the following building materials:

• exhaust mesh;
• sand, gravel or crushed stone;
• fittings, dowels;
• reinforced mesh;
• roofing felt or geotextiles;
• boards for formwork;
• steel or asbestos pipe;
• primer, concrete mixture (1 part M500 cement to 3 parts sand);
• waterproofing solution;
• plaster mixture.

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Partial restoration of the base and blind area

1. Clean the parts of the building façade that require restoration from dirt, dust, and fungus, prime the cracks and recesses.
2. Attach the exhaust mesh with dowels so that it does not protrude from the recess.
3. Then apply a layer of plaster to the area to be repaired, flush with the base.
4. If the voids are large, you need to select the right size bricks or parts thereof, and use mortar to fill in the openings.
5. After restoration, the areas are moistened with water and waterproofing slurry is applied in two layers.
6. The next day, only after the wall has completely dried, you can start plastering.

To repair a blind area, you first need to remove all damaged areas of the material.

If the blind area has sagged in places, the damaged areas are removed and gravel, sand, and crushed stone are added to compact the soil. Mini-formwork is installed and the surface is poured with concrete at the same level as the undamaged areas, carefully leveling. In cases where there is simply a crack without subsidence of the base, it is rubbed with cement mortar.

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Major renovation

The first step is to fill in a new blind area. Having freed the space from the old one, they dig a trench 35-40 cm deep. The width is chosen at your discretion. The lower 20 cm are covered with sand and crushed stone or gravel and compacted tightly. After this, geotextiles or roofing felt are spread and sprinkled with sand. For anchoring, holes are drilled in the foundation every 50 cm and pieces of reinforcement are driven in. A reinforced mesh is welded to it. The formwork is placed and the structure is filled with concrete.

The blind area must have a slope of several degrees away from the house to allow moisture to drain away.

Repair of the brick facade continues after the concrete has hardened. A reinforced mesh is applied to the cleaned surface of the base. There are 2 options for this:

You can use dowels to secure the mesh.

• Holes are drilled in the wall, pieces of reinforcement are driven into 1-2 rows and a mesh is tied to them. After this, the surface is primed and formwork is placed, poured cement mixture and compacted.
• The reinforcing mesh is attached to the wall with dowels, it is also primed twice and plaster is applied to the wall. After repair, protection of the plinth can be achieved using facing bricks. This option is used if it is not possible to make the layer being repaired wide in thickness.

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Strengthening is carried out partially, first of all in the corners of the building, then in the central parts of the walls.
A trench is laid at the base of the foundation and compacted with gravel and sand, creating a base for a new foundation. Old walls must be cleaned of dirt and damaged areas and treated with a primer. Then, using a puncher, holes are made in 4 rows at a distance of 70-120 cm from each other. They insert anchor bolts or pieces of reinforcement 40 cm long and 12-14 mm in diameter. A frame with cell dimensions of 20x20x20 cm is tied onto the rods with wire or welded; it should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the old structure. After this, the formwork is installed and the structure is filled with concrete.

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Types of base damage and their causes

The most common damage to the basement of a house occurs:

1. destruction of the outer surface of the brickwork (peeling);
2. cracks in the structure;
3. base subsidence.

They are caused by many reasons:

1. soil subsidence;
2. foundation subsidence;
3. low-quality building materials from which the basement is built;
4. poor quality construction work;
5. incorrect or damaged waterproofing;
6. incorrect calculation that does not take into account effective load on the structure;
7. increase in load during operation, repair or reconstruction (for example, adding a second floor to a cottage).

Moreover, defects in most cases arise not for one reason, but for a combination of them. For example, peeling may be caused by the fact that a brick of reduced frost resistance has been selected, and also that the waterproofing has lost its properties.

Why damage to the base must be repaired as early as possible

As we have already said, all other building structures rest on the plinth, the repair of which can be more expensive than even labor-intensive work to eliminate defects in the plinth.

A significant subsidence of the base can lead to the destruction of walls and ceilings, and even to the fact that the structure will become unsuitable for use. Building materials are not self-healing. Ordinary peeling of a brick can lead to a chain of more serious consequences.

For example:

1. Peeling (damage to the surface layers) gradually goes deeper.
2. Subsequently, the material is completely destroyed.
3. The thickness (area) of the plinth wall decreases.
4. The load on the remaining undamaged areas of the plinth masonry increases beyond their strength limit.
5. Cracking occurs, and then destruction of the entire base, and then the rest of the structure of the house.

Therefore, having noticed even a minor defect, it is necessary, if possible, to identify its cause and eliminate it, and then carry out repairs. Now let’s learn more about how to repair a basement.

Base subsidence

It is detected by cracks in the brickwork and even by deviation of the plinth surfaces from the vertical or horizontal. Having discovered such a defect, you need to act as follows.

Determine whether the subsidence of the base continues

The continuation of subsidence is evidenced by the constant expansion of cracks. You can determine whether it is there or not in a simple way using beacons.

It's easy to make them:

1. Cut strips of paper about 2 centimeters wide and 10-15 centimeters long.
2. Using strong glue, we attach them so that they seem to tighten the crack (similar to repairing with electrical tape or adhesive, but the purpose is different).
3. It is advisable to write the date of the sticker on each lighthouse.
4. After 10 days, we look to see if our tapes are still intact. If intact, then shrinkage no longer occurs.

By the way, in the same way it is necessary to control the result of work to eliminate shrinkage and strengthen the foundation.

Determine whether there is subsidence of the foundation

In 90% of cases, the reason why the brick base sank strip foundation, this is the draft of the latter. In order to make sure that only the base is to blame (this rarely happens), in places where there are the most cracks on the base, we expose the foundation with small holes.

Most likely, there will be cracks there too. In a well-known way, with the help of beacons we determine whether they have an extension.

Should work be carried out to strengthen the foundation and plinth if the subsidence has ended?

Many people recommend, after making sure that there is no more subsidence, to simply seal the cracks and, if necessary, carry out cosmetic repairs. However, there is no certainty that the processes that caused the subsidence (for example, changes in the groundwater horizon) will not be repeated. Therefore, strengthening must be carried out in any case.

Strengthening the foundation is best done in stages, without exposing it completely, so without supporting the outer wall of the foundation on the ground, collapse of not only parts of the foundation, but also the walls may occur.

• Opening the foundation of the building. We dig a trench not along the entire perimeter of the building, but in small areas 3-4 meters each with the same intervals between them.

Advice. Be extremely careful when excavating to great depths. Make slopes of at least 30 degrees or secure the walls of the trench with shields.

• Most likely, cracks will also be visible in the exposed foundation. We seal them with cement-sand mortar.

• It would be optimal to additionally tighten the foundation with steel tires with intervals in height of 0.5-1 meter. Therefore, we place their parts in our pits so that we can later connect them by welding or bolts.
• Afterwards we prepare connections to connect the old fill with the new one. To do this, we drill holes in a checkerboard pattern, spaced from each other at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters. We glue either standard metal connections into them, or install self-expanding anchors.

• We treat the walls of the existing foundation with a water-repellent compound, its price is low, and the effectiveness of waterproofing increases significantly.

• We waterproof the existing foundation. It is best to cover it with waterproofing material. If the old waterproofing is in satisfactory condition, we still carry out additional coating, since by installing tires and connections, we damaged its tightness.
• Preparing a cushion of sand and crushed stone for pouring. We compact it carefully.
• Installing formwork. To strengthen the foundation, as a rule, a thickness of an additional layer of reinforced concrete of 30-40 centimeters is sufficient. For formwork, it is best to use inventory panels; they will speed up the work.
• Install reinforcing mesh . You can weld it, but the easiest way is to knit it. To maintain the protective layer of concrete, we install clamps.

At the same time, we do not forget that we will not be concreting the entire foundation, but sections, so we will leave 15-20 centimeter bars at the edges, with which we will connect the reinforcement of the grips poured in the second stage. We also provide connections between the frame and ties previously reinforced in the existing foundation.

• Filling areas that strengthen the foundation. You need to use not the standard B 12.5 concrete for foundations, but a higher class. Be sure to compact it with deep vibrators.
• After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork.
• The new foundation wall also needs to be waterproofed.
• After waterproofing, we carry out bedding.

Having completed the first stage, you can proceed to the second:

1. We expose the remaining sections of the foundation.
2. We seal cracks in the same way.
3. We install the missing sections of tires to tighten the foundation. We tighten them
4. We carry out work on installation of connections and waterproofing.
5. We install the formwork so that the panels rest on the already finished sections.
6. We install the reinforcement frame. We connect its rods with the outlets of the casting rods of the first stage.
7. We pour the concrete, after it hardens, remove the formwork, waterproof it and sprinkle it.
8. The second stage is completed, we have a ready-made reinforced foundation.

To avoid interruptions in work, it is better to use the following principle:

1. We immediately fill a number of sections of the first stage on one side of the building.
2. Let's move to the opposite side. While we are working there, the concrete will harden.
3. Having completed the first stage on the opposite side, we again move to the area where we started, and there we fill the remaining sections of the wall.

After we have poured the reinforcing layer along its horizontal surface, it is necessary to lay the waterproofing layer again, which will then be covered with a blind area.

Option for using screw piles

You can speed up and simplify the work of strengthening the foundation with a relatively small subsidence using screw piles. They differ from ordinary metal ones in that they have blades in the shape of an Archimedes screw at the end that goes deep into the ground.

Such piles are not driven into the ground, but are screwed in like a corkscrew. Moreover, with the small size of the foundation and the piles themselves, they can be installed without the use of special equipment, manually.

In addition, when installing piles, the soil around the foundation is not loosened, but rather compacted, which reduces the settlement of the existing structure.

But we note that this method can only be used in cases of slight subsidence, since it does not eliminate cracks in the existing foundation and does not restore its waterproofing.

Work to strengthen the foundation in this way is carried out as follows:

1. We screw in a row of piles around the perimeter of the old foundation. The step of their installation depends on the design and cross-section, installation depth. The manufacturer usually makes recommendations upon delivery.
2. After the piles are screwed in, a trench about half a meter deep is selected along the existing foundation. Its width is approximately equal to double the distance from the pile installation line to the perimeter of the foundation.
3. The piles are connected to each other metal beam, usually an I-section, by welding.
4. If the piles are hollow, then their internal volume is filled with concrete.
5. Just like in the first case, but only for the exposed part of the foundation, work is being carried out to seal cracks, repair waterproofing and install connections.
6. A reinforcement cage is laid in the trench. It is not necessary to do it frequently, since the main load is taken by the beam connecting the piles. You can avoid reinforcement altogether if you use fiber-reinforced concrete.
7. Fill the trench with concrete. Then we lay waterproofing and make a blind area.

After the foundation is strengthened, it is time to begin restoring the base itself.

Basement repair with replacement of damaged masonry

If the masonry is severely damaged, for example, to a depth of more than a brick, it would be ideal complete refurbishment base If we were talking about wooden houses, then such work is performed there quite often.

It includes the following operations:

1. part of the plinth masonry is removed to install supports;
2. supports are installed under the log house, resting directly on the foundation and taking on the entire weight of the house structure that previously carried the base;
3. the basement brick is removed completely and re-laid;
4. Lastly, the areas where the supports stood are laid.

Sometimes in this way they solve not only the question of how to level the base with bricks, but also increase the height by raising the house on jacks.

For a brick building, this technology is difficult to apply for two reasons:

1. the weight of a brick structure is much greater than that of a wooden one;
2. brickwork requires support over the entire area of ​​the base; removing even a small part of the base leads to the formation of cracks.

But still, this technology is real, it is used when moving a building from place to place. It is difficult to do this with your own hands, but it is possible, although it requires large material costs.

In this case, it is desirable that the following conditions be met:

1. the structure of the house should not be very heavy; it may not be possible to support even a two-story cottage on supports;
2. If possible, the wall should be monolithic and not consist of two layers separated by an air chamber.

For reference, we present the stages of work, although few people use this technology. Everything is very similar to making openings in a blank wall. For work we will need the following auxiliary materials

1. A strong steel corner with a shelf width equal to half the wall thickness;
2. The length of the racks is approximately equal to the height of the base;
3. Sealant for building structures.

The instructions for performing the work are as follows:

• We choose a section no more than 1-2 meters long. We immediately prepare a square of this length.
• At the junction between the wall and the plinth we begin to cut a groove. In this case, the cutter must be of such a diameter that it can penetrate half the thickness of the wall.
• Simultaneously with cutting, we begin to insert the square into the groove. That is, having cut through the area so that the gas cutter does not interfere with us, we insert one edge of the square at an angle to the wall. Then, continuing to cut, we bring its opposite edge closer, introducing more and more new sections into the cut space. This is done in order to prevent the wall from subsiding downwards even by the thickness of the cut, this will inevitably lead to the formation of a crack
• By inserting a square into the groove, we attach it to the posts; you can attach stops to the square or simply use welding. Before this, the racks must be extremely securely installed on the base to prevent their vertical displacement.
• Having thus suspended part of the base on one side, we carry out a similar operation on the opposite side. Most likely, you will have to dismantle the floor to do this.
• Now we already have part of the wall hanging, and the section of the plinth under it is not loaded. Let's take it apart.
• Having taken it apart, we begin to make a new one. I think you know how to lay out a brick plinth - the techniques are the same as for walls. At the same time, do not forget about waterproofing between the foundation and the brick. At the edges of the area we leave protruding parts of the brick for tying with the masonry of the next area.
• Having completed the laying and allowing the mortar to gain strength, we remove the racks.

Now our task is even more difficult - to remove the square, fill the seam with mortar without subsidence of the higher structures. This should be done slowly, perhaps over several days. To fill the joint, you need to use quick-hardening cement.

• In the same way as we introduced it, we begin to remove the square. This will require a fair amount of effort as it is pinned down by the weight of the wall. We use levers and jacks for this.
• Having freed up a small space in the seam, apply sealant to the surface. Then, after allowing it to harden, we tightly fill the remaining space with the solution. When it hardens, remove another part of the square. We continue this in small steps until we remove it completely.
• Having completed work in one area, we move in order to another. We carry out the work until the entire defective base is rebuilt.

As you can see, the work is not only labor-intensive and complex, but also takes a lot of time. Re-laying the plinth even under a small house can take more than a month. Therefore, another restoration method is often used - sealing damaged areas with concrete.

Basement repair using concrete mixtures

1. First of all, thoroughly clean the damaged areas. We remove not only crushed stone and dust, but also half-scattered pieces of brick that still remain in contact with the rest of the stone. It is convenient to use a brush and a blower for this purpose. At the same time, you should not be particularly zealous - a chisel and a hammer are of no use for this work.
2. We seal all the cracks, filling them with a sand-cement mixture with a fine sand fraction. It is advisable to use a solution with the addition of fiber fibers and polymer additives or even special repair compounds.
3. It is quite possible that the waterproofing of both the base from the foundation and from the walls in places where the brick has crumbled is damaged. Cover these defects sheet material it won’t work out, so we cover them with sealant or mastic in several layers.
4. Then we need to ensure good adhesion of the laid mixture with the rest of the base. To do this, we use fine reinforcing mesh. We fasten it to the masonry using screws on dowels or self-expanding anchors.

Please note that there are special varieties of this fastener for brick and lightweight concrete, which take into account the lower strength and density of these materials. We use them exactly. We place the mesh vertically at a distance of at least 3-5 centimeters from the future outer surface of the base. This way we will protect the steel from corrosion.

You can use a polymer mesh, then the distance to the surface does not matter, the plastic is not susceptible to rust.

Polymer mesh is the best replacement for steel

• We begin to fill the damaged areas with the solution. It is better to do this with a trowel or a falcon. In those places where the damage is especially deep and the mortar can slide, we install formwork.
• Having finished laying, we level the surface and compact it with a vibrating screed.
• Let the concrete harden under normal conditions. To do this, we cover the repaired area from the sun and slanting rain with a dark film. Periodically moisten the surface, not allowing it to dry.
• We apply protective covering on concrete - it is best to use compounds that not only repel water, but also give additional strength to its surface. Any hardware store offers a wide selection of these products. If you plan to cover the base, then this step can be skipped.

After the concrete has hardened, repairs brick plinth can be considered completed. All that remains is to take care of decorative finishing and additional protection. By the way, almost all finishing technologies and materials simultaneously perform both functions.

First, about protection. By the way, it won’t hurt to carry out this work if there is no damage to the base, but it is made of low-quality material, thereby increasing the durability of the structure.

Base protection and finishing

In addition to poor waterproofing, increased humidity, leading to the destruction of its material, is also created when rainwater enters. Increasing the roof overhang can partially protect against precipitation.

Only a properly made blind area can protect from rainwater coming from the ground. After repairing the base, it must be restored or fixed if it was missing at all (most often it cannot be repaired). Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to properly make a blind area.

Restoration and construction of the blind area

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the site, remove destroyed pieces of concrete from the old blind area and other materials.

Then we begin work, about them again step by step:

• We carry out excavation. For the blind area you need to prepare a shallow trench. Its width is at least 70 centimeters, but the larger the better. Depth of at least 30 centimeters.
• We compact the bottom of the trench, then arrange a cushion of sand, crushed stone and crushed stone-sand mixture, over which we carefully pass several times with a vibrating platform or, in extreme cases, with a tamper.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork. It consists of boards or slats laid around the perimeter, which are secured with pegs and bedding. It is necessary to ensure that the upper edge of the poured blind area is at least 5 centimeters above the ground.

It’s even better to put sidewalk stones on concrete locks instead of formwork (although this is an additional cost of labor and material), so our blind area will be reliably protected from breaking off the edges.

• In addition to the perimeter blind area, expansion joints must also be provided. Of course, they can be cut later, but why waste extra time and wear out discs for cutting concrete, it is better to provide for it immediately when pouring. We lay thin slats or other material along the perimeter of the wall, as well as at a distance of 3-4 meters perpendicular to it. Let's mark them.

Many craftsmen recommend generally connecting the blind area to the base using ties, but this is not correct. Firstly, their foundation does not shrink when the soil freezes and thaws. Secondly, concrete and brick have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, it is imperative to give them freedom.

Advice. The blind area can not be poured at all, but made from paving slabs (we have already recommended side stones). A slight seepage of water into the ground near the blind area will not hurt. But, as practice shows, it will be more durable.

• To create expansion joints, it is better to use a very dry board of small thickness, impregnated with petroleum products, otherwise removing it will be problematic (ordinary concrete, although slightly, expands). It is even better to take scraps of metal or other materials that do not swell with water.
• After laying the formwork, we reinforce the future blind area. As a rule, a mesh laid at 5-10 centimeters is sufficient. As mentioned above, connecting it to a foundation or plinth not only makes no sense, but is also completely dangerous, since this threatens a loss of strength.
• We fill the structure. For compaction and leveling, it is better to use a vibrating screed.

• Concrete maintenance is normal. By the way, the surface is horizontal, it is advisable to sprinkle it with wet sand or sawdust, constantly moistening it. Then the film can also be used transparent, it only protects against evaporation.
• When the concrete reaches formwork strength, remove the formwork. This work must be carried out very carefully with slats that provide expansion joints.
• We fill the seams either with a special sealant or with ready-made polymer inserts for such work.

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Preparatory work

At the stage of preparation for repair work, using a shovel, the lower part of the base is freed from contact with the ground. After this, they begin to dismantle the decorative finishing (how to finish the base of a pile-screw foundation), if any.

Then the damaged areas of the plaster are removed. When performing this part of the work, it is necessary to simultaneously identify all the voids - this is done by tapping the base over its entire surface. All suspicious areas are cleaned using a chisel and hammer.

Add to list preparatory work cleaning of the surface layer from dirt and dust is also included. It is better to do this with a wire brush.

All surfaces that are not subject to plastering are covered with masking tape.

The procedure for performing repair work

If you decide to repair the foundation base yourself, proceed in the following order:

1. Fill all large voids found with brick (which brick is best for the foundation plinth). Fragments of the required size can also be cut from aerated concrete blocks. The liners are fixed using masonry mortar.
2. Wet the surfaces to be plastered generously. It’s best to do this with a hose filled with water, but you can get by with a bucket and brush.
3. Prepare a waterproofing solution. It is usually sold in the form of a dry mixture, diluted with clean water.
4. Apply waterproofing to the prepared areas in two steps (what is waterproofing a foundation base). The thickness of the first layer is 1-2 mm, the second - 3 mm. A wide spatula or brush is used as a tool.

After application, the waterproofing composition is allowed to sit for 24 hours. After a day, reinforcing mesh can be installed in places to be plastered to ensure better adhesion of the plaster to the base material.

The joints between old and new plaster can be treated with a piece of polystyrene foam: the transition boundaries will become invisible to the eye.

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How to repair the basement of a brick house?

• Uneven shrinkage of the house
• Do-it-yourself columnar structure repair

Old houses often need repair work; among the most difficult are the repairs of the basement and the foundation itself. Such repair work has a number of features that must be determined before work begins.

Before starting to repair the basement of the house, you need to clear the crack of debris, and then fill it with crushed stone or small particles of brick.

The most common type of such repair can be considered the elimination of the consequences of uneven soil subsidence, which harms not only the supporting part of the foundation, but also all load-bearing walls building.

Uneven shrinkage of the house

Base design diagram.

Loose or heaving soils very often result from subsidence of the foundation structure in certain places. Most often, such places are located at the corners of the house, which leads to the formation of cracks and peeling of the base and walls of the building. You can determine the beginning of uneven shrinkage of the foundation by examining the condition of the blind area around the entire perimeter of the house. In places where the soil subsides, the blind area will be cracked, which is a signal for further repair-type actions.

In some cases, foundation shrinkage may only be temporary. After the supporting base of the structure reaches a solid area of ​​soil, the shrinkage will stop by itself, but this happens extremely rarely.

Most often, the house continues to sink in certain places, which leads to a violation of the structural integrity of the foundation, plinth and the entire building. The consequence of such an action can be not only the impact environment, but also the mistakes and shortcomings of the developer himself.

For example, if the house had a poor-quality sewer or water supply system that often leaked, this could lead to saturation of the soil near the foundation with water, which winter time was freezing. Such a cycle leads to heaving of the soil above the specified level, and ultimately damages the entire structure of the base of the house. In addition, during the initial construction of the house, disastrous mistakes could have been made due to poor-quality mortar or the use of incorrect foundation construction technology.

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Signs of structural integrity violation

An approximate scheme for repairing and strengthening a damaged section of a strip foundation.

It was noted above that the initial destruction of the supporting part of the house can be determined by the state of its foundation, in which large cracks or deep depressions may form. Some cracks on the base of the foundation can simply be repaired, because they do not spread further, which does not pose a threat to the integrity of the base structure. Identifying such a crack is quite simple, because all you need to do is stick a strip of paper or adhesive tape on the edges of the crack. Within 10 days it will be clear whether the this crack and what to do with it next.

Those foundation breaks that do not have progression are easy to repair.

The crack itself must be cleaned as much as possible from dirt and debris, and then filled with crushed stone or small particles of brick.

After this it is executed cement plaster, which will strengthen the gap in the base and eliminate the possibility of water and other elements penetrating into it. If it turns out that the rupture is progressing, then it is necessary to proceed with more drastic repair methods, because the foundation will continue to shrink, destroying the entire foundation.

Execute further work repairs independently and without the use of special equipment are only possible if the foundation structure is of a strip or columnar type. Otherwise, such work will require the presence of experienced specialists who have at their disposal special and rather expensive equipment. But here, too, you can make your contribution by providing the plinth structure with additional reinforcement that can last for several years until it is possible to connect specialists for repairs. To strengthen the foundation, you will only need the most simple tools and building materials for repairs:

• paper and plaster beacons;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• pipe made of metal or asbestos;
• cement-sand mortar;
• slats and planks made of wood.

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Work to strengthen the structure

Strengthening the brick foundation.

Strengthening and repairing the foundation structure must be carried out immediately, preventing a repeat cycle of soil freezing, which in turn will further compromise the integrity of the foundation of a brick house. To do this, we find all the cracks and use plaster or paper beacons, on which it is advisable to put a date, which will allow us to determine the degree of shrinkage of the house and the need for repairs.

After a few days, the beacons of the brick base need to be checked, and in those places where the progression of cracks continues to frustrate us, we carry out work to strengthen the structure. Near the place where the crack appears, it is necessary to dig a hole of small diameter, which must have a slope of at least 35° from the foundation of a private house.

The depth of the hole should reach the bottom of the foundation pad. Now we use a pre-prepared asbestos or metal pipe, which must be inserted into the prepared hole. It is necessary to pour extremely liquid cement mortar into the pipe, which will saturate the soil and hollow spaces in it with the solution until completely saturated. As soon as after 2-3 hours the cement mortar stops flowing into the pipe, the action can be stopped.

After this, it is necessary to re-stick the beacons, which will allow you to determine within 10 days whether the shrinkage of a private house has stopped. If this does not happen, then all work must be repeated. For more severe damage to the supporting structure, it may be necessary to completely reinforce the foundation along its entire perimeter. Such work is more labor-intensive and requires more money.

To begin with, excavations are carried out along the entire perimeter of a private house, during which a new trench of the same size will appear around the foundation. The bottom of the new ditch is thoroughly compacted and filled with gravel and clean sand. By watering such a place with water, you can achieve maximum compaction of the base, which will additionally act as a drainage layer. We begin processing the old foundation, which must be cleaned as much as possible of soil and loose structural elements.

Structural diagram of a columnar cast-in-place foundation.

After this, the structure must be coated in several layers with a primer, which will increase the adhesion performance. Using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled into the foundation required amount holes into which anchor bolts must be inserted. Such elements will be the connecting link between the old foundation and the reinforcing frame of the new supporting element. After this, we begin to manufacture a new reinforcing frame, which should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the old structure.

For this design, 12 mm reinforcement is used, which is connected into a two-layer reinforcement type frame. Now you can start organizing formwork from any available material, where lumber or CBPB boards are most often used. When using the second option, you can leave the formwork in the ground without dismantling it. The boards will need to be removed, and to do this, before using them, it is necessary to cover them with a layer oil paint, which will allow dismantling to be carried out as quickly and conveniently as possible.

The final stage of work to strengthen the foundation is pouring concrete into the formwork. Such filling must be completed in one go; this will avoid the organization of layers of mortar, which is detrimental to the integrity of the entire structure. When pouring the solution, it is necessary to bayonet or use a vibrating machine, which is necessary to ensure that the solution is laid without the formation of air pockets due to the presence of large crushed stone. You can remove the formwork and backfill the soil within 7-10 days after pouring the concrete solution, the total drying time of which is about 30 days.

Such repair work is able to provide high-quality strengthening of the strip-type foundation structure, which has undergone destruction due to the characteristics described above. By completing all such work yourself, you can save a decent amount of money on hiring builders.

Before you start repairing the basement of a brick house or facade apartment building, it is necessary to determine the causes and degree of destruction of structures. Signs that restoration is required are visible cracks in the plaster or masonry, peeling of the cladding, the formation of fungus on the walls, subsidence or bulging of certain sections of the building façade, the loss of single bricks, deviation from the vertical.

Causes of destruction

• Uneven shrinkage of the foundation. It occurs due to subsidence of heaving or soft soil, the weight of the building, or poorly executed blind area. Multi-apartment brick buildings are most susceptible to this process.
• Close occurrence of groundwater and, as a result, erosion of the foundation of the house. This is due to the fact that this nuance was not included in the construction project.
• Poor quality building materials and violation of building codes.
• Trees planted close to the house with a powerful root system, undermining the blind area of ​​the building.
• Communication problems. In the case when there is a breakthrough in the central water supply system and flooding of the foundation or the sewage system is poorly constructed.
• Climatic phenomena (wind, frost, rain) and microbiological influences - the occurrence of mold fungi, lichens, which leads to mechanical destruction of the brickwork.

To repair the base yourself, you must first determine the degree of destruction and outline the list of work. If the facade and blind area are damaged in places, there are no progressive cracks in the base, then cosmetic repairs are made. In the case where the damage to the blind area is more global or it has moved away from the base, it should be replaced completely. When the building shrinks and the cracks increase, it is recommended to completely strengthen and strengthen the foundation.

What do you need for work?

For some types of work, fittings may be needed.

If you plan to repair the facade of a brick apartment building or private building, you first need to clear the surfaces of construction debris and remove damaged areas where restoration will be carried out. Depending on the repair technology, prepare the following building materials:

• exhaust mesh;
• sand, gravel or crushed stone;
• fittings, dowels;
• reinforced mesh;
• roofing felt or geotextiles;
• boards for formwork;
• steel or asbestos pipe;
• primer, concrete mixture (1 part M500 cement to 3 parts sand);
• waterproofing solution;
• plaster mixture.

Partial restoration of the base and blind area

1. Clean the parts of the building façade that require restoration from dirt, dust, and fungus, prime the cracks and recesses.
2. Attach the exhaust mesh with dowels so that it does not protrude from the recess.
3. Then apply a layer of plaster to the area to be repaired, flush with the base.
4. If the voids are large, you need to select the right size bricks or parts thereof, and use mortar to fill in the openings.
5. After restoration, the areas are moistened with water and waterproofing slurry is applied in two layers.
6. The next day, only after the wall has completely dried, you can start plastering.

To repair a blind area, you first need to remove all damaged areas of the material.

If the blind area has sagged in places, the damaged areas are removed and gravel, sand, and crushed stone are added to compact the soil. Mini-formwork is installed and the surface is poured with concrete at the same level as the undamaged areas, carefully leveling. In cases where there is simply a crack without subsidence of the base, it is rubbed with cement mortar.

Major renovation

The first step is to fill in a new blind area. Having freed the space from the old one, they dig a trench 35-40 cm deep. The width is chosen at your discretion. The lower 20 cm are covered with sand and crushed stone or gravel and compacted tightly. After this, geotextiles or roofing felt are spread and sprinkled with sand. For anchoring, holes are drilled in the foundation every 50 cm and pieces of reinforcement are driven in. A reinforced mesh is welded to it. The formwork is placed and the structure is filled with concrete.

The blind area must have a slope of several degrees away from the house to allow moisture to drain away.

Repair of the brick facade continues after the concrete has hardened. A reinforced mesh is applied to the cleaned surface of the base. There are 2 options for this:

You can use dowels to secure the mesh.

• Holes are drilled in the wall, pieces of reinforcement are driven into 1-2 rows and a mesh is tied to them. After this, the surface is primed and formwork is placed, filled with cement mixture and compacted.
• The reinforcing mesh is attached to the wall with dowels, it is also primed twice and plaster is applied to the wall. After repair, protection of the plinth can be achieved using facing bricks. This option is used if it is not possible to make the layer being repaired wide in thickness.

If problems arise with the base, then in order to correct the situation and perform basic construction work, a person does not need to have any skills of a highly qualified specialist in finishing works. A general understanding of how the installation of facing materials took place and what fixing compounds were used is sufficient. Since basement repairs may be needed at any time, it is advisable to prepare for this in advance.

If the owner of the house has not previously delved into such nuances, he must, first of all, understand that the plinth is the distance from the ground to the wall of the structure. It can sometimes occupy an entire floor or just a foundation that protrudes half a meter above the ground.

The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of a house

If over time a crack appears on the base of the structure or fungus has formed, this indicates that the master made mistakes when carrying out facing work, which have now caused global problems. Also, sometimes experts ignore design standards, which would be sufficient to avoid such complications in the first years of operation of the building.

Over time, the basement will need to be repaired

The main causes of basement destruction include the following:

1. House shrinkage. Such processes depend on the soil; the total weight of the building plays an important role. The largest subsidences are observed in brick multi-apartment buildings.
2. Poor quality blind area. If you neglect the necessary technologies for making a blind area, this will certainly lead to problems with the foundation in the future.
3. Groundwater. If, when creating the project, the depth of groundwater flow was not taken into account and no waterproofing measures were taken, this will also provoke erosion. If the owner of the house is going to build the foundation himself, it is better to use the services of professionals. Only they will be able to correctly assess the situation and determine the depth of groundwater flow.
4. Design standards were violated. Quite often, builders do not take into account the insulation of the foundation, as well as waterproofing. But such problems mainly happen to people who, without the necessary experience, try to build on their own. In the future, this will certainly lead to the formation of fungi and freezing of the entire structure. In turn, this will also provoke destruction of a certain degree of severity.

In this video you will learn more about basement repair:

Types of base repairs and description of the technological process

There are 3 main types of repairs to the basement of a building, namely:

• capital;
• current;
• cosmetic.

In some cases, when the work does not fall under one of these types, it is necessary to perform a partial restoration of the blind area. In any of these situations, a person should at least be familiar with the peculiarities of carrying out this type of work.

Partial restoration of the base and blind area

To partially restore the base and blind area, you must perform the following steps:

1. Clean the facade of the building, which requires restoration work, from fungus, dirt and dust, priming the gorges and recesses.
2. Next, using dowels, the exhaust mesh is attached so that it does not go beyond the edges of the recess. Now you can apply a layer of plaster mortar to the problem area, keeping to the level of the base.
3. If the voids are too large, you should first prepare bricks of suitable size and fill these recesses with mortar. After the area has been restored, it should be moistened with water and waterproofing material should be applied in two layers.
4. After the surface is completely dry, the plaster can be applied.

If partial subsidence of the blind area occurs, the damaged area is removed and crushed stone, gravel and sand are added, compacting the soil. Next, the formwork is installed, and the surface is poured with concrete so that the level does not exceed intact and undamaged areas. If an ordinary crack has formed, without subsidence, it can simply be rubbed with cement mortar.

Current repair of the basement

Routine renovation of the basement means that the cladding will be updated, as well as the waterproofing layers. Wear often occurs quickly due to the fact that the base part is always located in the most aggressive environment and takes on various technical and atmospheric loads. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to periodically diagnose and update minor damage.

Major renovation

To carry out a major overhaul, the first thing you need to do is pour a new blind area. After the space has been cleared, it is worth digging a trench, the depth of which will be 35-45 cm. The width is chosen at the discretion of the owner of the house. The lower 20-25 cm are covered with sand, as well as crushed stone, and compacted tightly.

Don't forget about the blind area

Next, geotextiles or roofing felt are spread and filled with sand. To make the dressing, holes are made in the foundation and pieces of reinforcement are driven in there every 50 cm. A reinforced mesh is also attached here. Now you can install the formwork and fill the structure with concrete.

Further repair work should begin only after complete hardening. A reinforced mesh is applied to the cleaned base surface. To perform these steps, you can drill a hole in the wall and drive the reinforcement in 1-2 rows, tying a mesh to it. Next, the surface should be primed and formwork installed, filled with cement and compacted.

Cosmetic repair of the base

Cosmetic repairs do not require any deep knowledge in the field of construction. The whole job is to restore the paint, plaster or other finishes. If any mechanical damage occurs, it may be necessary to replace one cladding element with another.

To understand such work, it is enough to have an idea of ​​how to prepare plaster or paint and apply it to the damaged surface. As for replacing any parts, more effort will be required, but such actions can be carried out based on the principle of installation carried out earlier during the construction of the house.

Strengthening the foundation

To strengthen the foundation, holes can be dug at each corner of the building, approximately one meter by one meter in size. They must be made in such a way as to expose the lower corner of the foundation. Such a recess must be no less than 45-50 cm deeper than the existing foundation.

Next, a reinforced frame for the concrete cushion is made. To do this, a lattice with one cell 20 by 20 cm is made from reinforcement using welding. Next, this lattice is lowered into the pit and filled with concrete. Popularly this design is called a “bull”.

Repair materials

To repair the basement of a house with your own hands, you need to prepare certain materials for future work. First of all, this includes the following:

• gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• primer and concrete mixture;
• plaster mixture;
• dowels and fittings;
• geotextiles or roofing felt;
• boards for formwork construction;
• exhaust mesh;
• waterproofing solution;
• asbestos or steel pipe.

How to protect the basement of a house from destruction

In order to resort to reconstruction of the basement floor as little as possible, you can take care to provide it with adequate protection from mechanical and atmospheric influences. For this you can use a budget option, which is accessible to everyone, even those without experience in this field.

It consists of applying a resin to the foundation of the house, which can protect it from external influences. It is necessary to mix the resin with diesel fuel and heat until a homogeneous mixture is formed, similar in consistency to jelly. This solution, when hardened, forms a special film that has protective properties and prevents moisture from entering the foundation.