Ecology of life: It is believed that this plant purifies the air in the house and brings women's happiness. And due to the fact that the plant is not too capricious and demanding to care for, it has become very popular on our windowsills. Spathiphyllum belongs to the family...
It is believed that this plant purifies the air in the house and brings women's happiness. And due to the fact that the plant is not too capricious and demanding to care for, it has become very popular on our windowsills.
Spathiphyllum belongs to the Araceae family, and came to us from the tropics of America. It is evergreen, herbaceous perennial, growing up to 30 cm in height. There are also tall and dwarf forms of spathiphyllum.
Spathiphyllum has no main stem; basal elongated leaves grow like a bunch directly from the soil.
The most common is Wallis' spathiphyllum S. Wallisii. In addition, you can often find Spathiphyllum pseudoforme, Spathiphyllum cannofolia and Spathiphyllum profusely flowering.
The plant blooms with inflorescences-cobs, which also grow from the ground on a long and thin stalk. Each inflorescence is covered by one large petal-veil, milky white, after the inflorescence has faded, the petal-veil quickly turns green.
Spathiphyllum: how to care
After purchasing the plant, it is best to leave it in the same pot for 2-3 weeks, and then you can transplant it into a more spacious or beautiful pot.
Location
Spathiphyllum needs a lot of light, but direct light is contraindicated. Sun rays. Ideal place For this plant, you can consider a window sill facing north, here there will be enough light and the sun will not harm the plant. It is also worth considering that the plant does not tolerate drafts very well, and may begin to get sick.
Temperature
For spathiphyllum, as well as for all other plants cultivated in the room, room temperature is suitable. The main thing that temperature regime did not fall below +15°C, this temperature is considered critical for the plant, and if the plant is kept in a room with this temperature for a long time, this will affect its vegetation and appearance.
To flower, spathiphyllum needs a temperature range from 17 to 21°C. Temperatures above 25°C can also not have a very good effect on the growth and flowering of a plant, but most often problems arise from a decrease in temperature.
Lighting
The plant reacts both to lack of lighting and to direct sunlight. The plant for a long time can grow in partial shade and shade, but deprive it natural light not worth it at all. Otherwise, the leaves will become smaller and stretch out, and flowering will not occur.
In the open sun, the leaves of the spathiphyllum begin to burn, which can have a rather negative effect not only on the appearance of the plant, but also on its growth. Ideal conditions include diffused but at the same time bright natural light.
Air humidity
The plant is demanding on air humidity, and ideal conditions for it, relative air humidity can be considered within 80%. To maintain high humidity air, the plant should be sprayed twice a day. It is also a good idea to place a container of water near the plant, this also helps to increase air humidity. You can also use a household humidifier.
Spathiphyllum: how to water
Watering the plant should be done with water at room temperature, well settled. You should also make sure that the earthen dump is always wet. But, despite the fact that the plant loves moisture, it categorically does not tolerate stagnation of water, and after watering excess water needs to be drained from the pan.
Soil requirements
The ideal soil for the plant is considered to be soil with the following composition: two parts turf soil, one part leaf and peat soil, one part humus and one part sand. One-fourth of charcoal can be added to this mixture. Before pouring the soil into the pot, you need to mix it well and add a 2-3 cm layer of drainage to the bottom of the pot.
Feeding
For regular flowering, you need to establish a feeding regime. During the growing season from spring to autumn, the plant needs feeding approximately once every 10 days, the rest of the time once a month is enough. Any universal fertilizer for flowering plants. Quite often, a plant stops blooming precisely because of the lack of a feeding regime.
Reproduction
The plant is propagated by dividing the bush. The easiest way to do this is when replanting the plant.
Spathiphyllum transplant
From time to time the plant needs to be replanted; it is enough to replant the spathiphyllum once every 1-1.5 years. If you want to achieve abundant flowering, you can replant less often, since the plant blooms more abundantly in a tight pot. When transplanted, the plant can be propagated, since spathiphyllums reproduce by dividing the bush.
For replanting, prepare a pot 2 cm larger in diameter than the one in which the flower grew; if replanting is carried out for the purpose of dividing the bush, then leave the same pot. You should not take containers that are too large for planting, otherwise you will have to wait a very long time for flowering.
You should first prepare the pot; to do this, lay a 2-3 cm layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, and add the same layer of soil.
30-60 minutes before transplanting, water the plant thoroughly, and after the allotted time has passed, carefully remove it from the pot along with the earthen lump. Shake off excess soil from the roots. If you were going to divide the plant, then carefully separate the required number of shoots, being careful not to damage the root system.
Now the adult plant needs to be placed in a pre-prepared pot and filled with soil, pressing it down slightly. After transplanting, the plant should be watered abundantly. For better survival and rooting, spathiphyllum can be watered with a root stimulator solution. published
Indoor plants decorate our home and create a feeling of coziness and comfort. They, like any living particle of the globe, are filled with life, therefore they require attention, care, and careful treatment. There are a lot of them, but each one remains unique and inimitable, and this is their charm. In this article we will talk about such a flower as spathiphyllum or, as people like to call it, “women’s happiness.”
There is a belief that this plant can bring happiness. They say that if it blooms in a house where a lonely girl lives, then she will certainly meet her other half. Well, it will bring strength, tranquility and reliability to a home with an established family.
Spathiphyllum – tropical plant, is evergreen. There are 45 species in total; there are 6 common indoor varieties: spoon-shaped, domino, wallis, profusely flowering, charming, sensation. The flower is beautiful in appearance and will easily complement any interior. It blooms only a few times a year, and only under conditions of proper care. I will reveal everything you need to know and what to follow for normal growth and development of the plant.
Flower of female happiness: care
Spathiphyllum does not require unnecessary attention. It is enough to water and spray the plant on time, besides, the flower is very smart, it itself makes it clear when it needs water, lowering its leaves down.
IN summer time you need to water it often, about every other day, winter period- few times a week. I recommend using filtered or settled water.
Since the plant is tropical, it loves warmth. But here it is important to determine the correct thermal and light conditions; the ideal temperature would be 18-25 degrees. The sun's rays have a detrimental effect, the leaves become dry and wither, and if the leaves, on the contrary, are pulled up, but flowering does not occur, more lighting is needed. With a lack of light, the foliage will become pale in color. It is advisable to spray every day, but at the same time, make sure that water does not get on the flowers! You can also clean it with a damp cloth to remove dust and other external contamination.
The flower propagates very simply: the usual division of the bush and root system. Flower growers use a method for propagation - with pieces of root, but beginners cannot cope with this, as they can damage the main plant by incorrectly dividing the mother root. The leaf is not able to reproduce!
The best time for propagation and transplantation is spring. First you need to prepare the soil: turf soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part). There must be good drainage at the bottom of the pot.
How to replant a flower of female happiness
Spathiphyllum is transplanted once a year, in the spring, but if you just bought the plant, it needs an urgent transplant. In stores, as a rule, it is sold in plastic containers for ease of transportation, but it will not be able to grow and reproduce under these conditions.
So, we start replanting a flower by purchasing a new pot. It should be slightly larger in diameter than the previous one. Make sure that the room temperature is not lower than 20 degrees. To make it easier to remove the plant from the pot, water it about an hour before replanting. We place the pot on its side and, using gentle tapping movements, separate the root system from it; to make it easier, you can use a metal spatula or knife, but act extremely carefully. Carefully remove rotted particles from the roots and shorten any that are too long. If you want to propagate, then separate parts of the roots along with the leaves.
We pre-prepare the pot: cover the drainage hole with small particles of brick (broken), expanded clay or shards, then lay the substrate (prepared in advance) and sprinkle a thin layer of soil on top. We fix the flower in the pot, adding further portions of soil so that it fits snugly against the walls. We compact the soil with our fingers until it is even with the leaves.
At the end of the procedure, water the stapiphyllum abundantly and put it in a dark place for 7 days, but spray the leaves daily. After a week, we return the flower to the usual, bright part of the house.
Attention! The flower cannot be replanted during the flowering process!
Spathiphyllum diseases and treatment
The main cause of the disease of this plant is pests: mealybugs, spider mites, aphids, sooty fungus, scale insects.
Mealybug
Appears when elevated level dampness and hides between the leaves, so periodically inspect the flower. If a small number of insects are detected, you can get rid of them by wiping the leaves with an alcohol solution or an infusion of citrus peels.
Spider mite
The greatest threat to spathiphyllum. The pest appears on the foliage and covers it with cobwebs. As a result, the plant gradually dries out. For treatment, it is enough to remove the cobwebs by treating the leaves with a non-concentrated soap solution. In more serious cases, you will need more effective means: insecticides, ground sulfur.
Aphid
Aphids originate on the lower part of the foliage and feed on the juice of “female happiness.” If the plant is not treated, the leaves curl and dry out. Treatment: 1 gram of nicotine sulfate per 1 liter of water and generously spray the affected parts.
Sooty mushroom
Manifests itself in blackening of the upper part of the leaves. The disease must be eliminated quickly, since it blocks the plant’s breathing, which leads to its death. Treatment: Frequent treatment soap solution.
Shchitovka
Shield aphids (scale insects) are dark-colored spots on leaves and stems. At the initial stage, the disease is invisible. It is treated by spraying the plant with a tobacco-soap solution mixed with kerosene or alcohol in a small amount.
Disease prevention is to frequently “bathe” the plant with a damp sponge. But the cause is not always pests! Indicators that the plant is sick:
- It doesn't grow well. Most likely, the light regime does not correspond to the norm or the humidity of the room and area near the flower is disturbed. It is enough to simply rearrange it to a more suitable place;
- Dried leaf tips, spots. Harmless spots of a yellow-brown hue, this may be the natural overflow of the plant;
- The flowers turn black. The reason is overfertilization or waterlogged soil. Treatment: spray the soil with a solution of foundationazole 2 grams per 1 liter of water;
- Yellow leaves. The reason is simple, either the plant is in contact with direct sunlight, or too much water is used when watering;
- Deformed leaves. Curved, elongated, narrow - the reason is the lack of light. Dark places- contraindicated;
- No flowering. Reasons: lack of feeding, insufficient humidity, need for replanting.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom, what to do?
A woman's happiness blooms only if she experiences a complete sense of comfort. When he is comfortable, warm, everything external factors meet the standards.
Why doesn't it bloom:
- the root system has not filled the pot, that is, the pot is too large;
- room temperature is above 25 degrees;
- excess or lack of lighting;
- draft;
- soil is too wet;
- the need for transplantation, division of rhizomes;
- dry room air;
- lack of watering and spraying of the plant;
- pests and diseases.
By eliminating any of the above reasons, you will allow the plant to exist normally, reproduce and bloom.
As you understand, caring for a woman’s happiness is not at all difficult.
Observe general rules care, and the plant will not cause you any trouble, but on the contrary, it will delight your eye with its beautiful flowering and beauty.
How to propagate a flower of female happiness
Reproduction of this flower occurs during the process of replanting, by dividing the bush; this is the most common method, which we will consider in more detail.
So, you have decided to transplant the flower into a new pot, then at the same time you can divide the spathiphyllum rhizome into several parts to form separate plants. It is best to divide in the spring, in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Let's consider the process itself, how to propagate the flower of female happiness.
As you know, a spathiphyllum cutting produces several growth points; you need to divide all the root rosettes among themselves, but at the same time make sure that each bush has at least three leaves. Next, you need to plant the spathiphyllums in small pots with a diameter of 12-15 cm. The soil used is a special earthen mixture for aroids, which includes one part each: leaf soil, peat, humus, sand. You can add pieces to the mixture tree bark or coal. Another mixture for planting is also allowed, two parts each: humus, peat, sand, coniferous and leaf soil.
A women's website about everything shared information on how to propagate the flower of female happiness.
In addition to how to propagate a flower of female happiness, you should also know that this procedure is quite difficult for the plant itself. Dividing must be done very carefully, since damage to the root system can cause the flower to gradually wither and ultimately die. The planted divisions require you to special attention, now they need to gain strength for independent existence, which means pamper them with abundant watering and frequent spraying.
Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.
Spathiphyllum is a perennial herbaceous plant with dark green, peak-shaped leaves from 15 to 30 cm long (depending on the variety). The petioles are long, often exceeding the length of the leaf blade itself, and the depressed veins give the leaf a folded appearance. Spathiphyllum flowers, like all representatives of the Araceae family, are collected in an inflorescence-cob.
Spathiphyllum is popularly called flagolist, and the more common name of the flower is WOMEN'S HAPPINESS.
Spathiphyllum care and reproduction.
Caring for the “female happiness” plant is quite simple, since the plant is not particularly demanding and easily tolerates a lack of light, although it will not bloom as intensely as on bright windows. Spathiphyllum will feel good on a north window. And the lack of lighting is indicated, first of all, by the elongation of the petioles. A wonderful place for spathiphyllum is a sunny window, but in hot weather it should be shaded, because the plant does not like heat.
Temperature all year round one is a room one. When it increases, you should monitor the condition of the earthen clod; it should not dry out under any circumstances! Because the plant may simply die. The resting period of spathiphyllum is not clearly expressed, so the temperature should not be lowered. But women's happiness does not put up with both heat and cold and drafts.
When overwatered in combination with low temperatures, the leaves become covered with brown spots, and in dry air they turn yellow, and then the tips of the leaves turn black (especially in heating season). And if you overdry the earthen ball, then the plant loses turgor, and it is difficult to restore it. It is advisable to spray the plant frequently and give it a warm shower once a week.
Spathiphyllum reproduces by dividing the bush. Usually, healthy plant is a fairly large colony, and division occurs easily, no roots or leaves are damaged, the plant takes root without any problems. Therefore, I believe that the care and reproduction of spathiphyllum directly depend on one another.
Feed better fertilizer For ornamental plants, during the period of active growth of green mass - nitrogen, and with the beginning of flowering, increase the dose of phosphorus and potash fertilizers. This will help prolong flowering and maintain the overall decorative appearance.
Transplanting women's happiness better in spring, in small and not deep bowls, since the plant will bloom better and more abundantly in a cramped pot or bowl. If the diameter of the pot is 18-20cm, then it is not advisable to replant it every year, but just renew it regularly upper layer. The soil should be loose and light. It can be composed of humus, leaf soil, sand and peat. It is advisable to add pieces of charcoal and broken bricks. There must be drainage at the bottom (2-3cm). Or buy ready-made soil mixture. That's the whole secret about the care and propagation of spathiphyllum.
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Royal flagolist or spathiphyllum - features of caring for women's happiness
Spathiphyllum or “female happiness”, originally from the humid South American tropics, is a real decoration for a home greenhouse, aristocratic and unusual. There is a belief that such a flower can revive lost romance in family relationships or help you meet your soul mate. Whether this is true can only be verified by experience - which means you will need to care for the plant so that it retains its beauty for a long time.
Varietal diversity of spathiphyllum
The spathiphyllum flower comes in several types:
- cannofolia;
- profusely flowering;
- Wallace (the most common species, a fairly large plant, snow-white flower cover).
There are also hybrid plants obtained in greenhouses - they are larger than natural ones and bloom for a very long time.
Among the hybrids that can be easily purchased in flower shops are Mozart, Variegata and Mauna Loa. These plants differ in the size and color of their leaves.
Nuances of caring for a tropical aristocrat
Caring for spathiphyllum at home may seem difficult - but only until you begin to understand the language of this plant (the flower will signal each of its “dissatisfaction” with a change in appearance).
But it is possible and necessary to prevent the moment when the female flower begins to ache and wither. Basic recommendations for caring for spathiphyllum:
- The plant is light-loving, but will grow magnificently in conditions of partial shade and shade. You should not place it in direct sunlight, optimal choice - north side. It will suffer from an excess of light - the leaves will become pale and lose color.
- Warmth is very important. Its ideal temperature range is 18-23°C.
- Drafts are unacceptable - cold air negatively affects the plant.
- Since indoor spathiphyllum comes from the tropics, it is very sensitive to moisture. During the flowering period (spring and summer), abundant watering is required, and in winter time The soil in the pot is moistened moderately. The flower responds gratefully to spraying and generally will not be able to grow normally in conditions of low humidity, and therefore a tray with wet moss or sand is required. Moderately dry air is allowed only in winter, during the dormant period.
- Period regular feeding plants - autumn and spring. Fertilizers should be applied weekly in these seasons using flowering fertilizer. In winter, fertilizing is unacceptable, as it will bring the flower out of hibernation.
- When the flowers begin to dry out, they must be removed - this will preserve the decorative appearance of the plant and allow it to form new inflorescences.
Transplantation and propagation
Spathiphyllum must be replanted every year and each time a larger container will be required. For soil mixture use:
- turf;
- leafy;
- humus;
- peat soil;
- sand;
- brick chips (charcoal).
Different types of soil are combined with sand in a ratio of 2:2:2:2:1.
Good drainage is also important. The plant must be replanted carefully so as not to damage the fragile roots. If immediately after transplantation the flower begins to fade, it needs to be irrigated abundantly 2-3 times a day.
During the transplantation process, spathiphyllum can also be propagated. There is a method for rooting apical cuttings, but it is labor-intensive and cannot be used at home. But propagation is possible by dividing the bush - one large plant can be divided into several shoots at once, trying to preserve as many roots as possible (at least 2.5 cm long) and at least 2-3 healthy leaves on each part. Droopy leaves must be removed from each cutting.
It is recommended to divide at a temperature of 20°C, since small plants are very sensitive to temperature changes. For one division you will need a 15 cm pot. The substrate is used the same as for adult plants. You need to care for the cutting in the same way as for a mature plant - water it on time, do not expose it to the sun and spray it often.
Questions for beginning flower growers - possible problems with the plant
Spathiphyllum is very popular among flower growers and all the questions you have most likely already have solutions:
- Why doesn't the plant bloom? The cause may be waterlogging, insufficient air humidity or lack of nutrients. If the leaves are green and no flowers appear, then you need to wait until the root system grows to cover the entire pot.
- Why do the tips of the leaves turn black? This indicates too much watering. This is also evidenced by the formation of brown or yellow spots.
- Why do dry leaves occur? If you don't spray the leaves regularly, they will become dry. This can also be caused by a shortage useful substances in the soil - nitrogen and phosphorus. Leaves that dry out must be trimmed.
- Why do leaves curl and lose color? This is how the plant signals you about excess light or pest damage.
Many plant diseases are caused precisely by pests, which often settle on a flower growing in conditions of excessive moisture. There are only a few main pests:
- shield aphid, sucking juice from a plant - when it settles on a flower, dark spots appear on it;
- spider mite - the fact that it has chosen your flower as a home is indicated by a thin cobweb between the leaves.
You can save spathiphyllum if you spray it with ready-made insecticides in time, treat it with ground sulfur or tobacco infusion.
If you carefully monitor your green pet, it will very soon delight you with unusually abundant flowering, and maybe it will actually attract “female happiness” into your home.
Reviews from flower growers
Maria Rudnitskaya, pensioner:
“Spathiphyllum is my gift from my son.
I had to tinker with it quite a bit (the leaves often dried out), even though I got an already formed plant. I shade it from the sun and water it with settled water. Only this year the beauty bloomed. It blooms unusually, but, unfortunately, it doesn’t smell.”
Stanislava Pecherskaya, economist:
“Girl’s happiness, flagolist, spathiphyllum - this is my blue dream, which is about to come true. I saw a luxurious bush of this plant in one interior magazine and was impressed. Now I'm trying to grow the same specimen. The secret of care is simple - no to sunlight and yes to frequent spraying. For the third summer now, my aristocrat has been pleasing me with numerous white veils.”
Daria Lukashina, nurse:
“For me, spathiphyllum remained an incomprehensible mystery. Being happily married means that you should grow by leaps and bounds? In my case, the legend about “women’s happiness” did not work and the spathiphyllum dried up. A friend gave me a new one, suggesting that the plant has a dormant period in winter, but this still does not cancel watering. We'll try again."
www.razmnojenie.ru
Spathiphyllum propagation
Reproduction of spathiphyllum (cuttings, seeds, dividing the bush).
Spathiphyllum is a beautifully flowering indoor plant, known and loved by many gardeners. Possessing various undeniable advantages, in particular, very attractive appearance, unpretentiousness, the ability to purify the air of city apartments from formaldehyde and phenol vapors, it is also famous for its ease of reproduction. If your friends have an adult spathiphyllum, then getting a young specimen from the mother plant is not at all difficult. There are three options on how you can do this.
Dividing the bush
This is the simplest and convenient way, and also useful for the mother plant. Spathiphyllum grows very quickly, forming many young rosettes. After just a couple of years, it is able to occupy the entire surface of the pot, creating dense thickets and severely depleting the soil. Therefore, it requires not only annual replanting, but also periodic division of the bush. The cuttings obtained as a result of this procedure are ready-made young plants that do not require additional growing or any special procedures. All that is required is to plant them in a separate pot.
— it is advisable to divide the bush before the start of active growing season, in the spring; — the division must contain at least three well-developed leaf rosettes and have a strong and intact root system; - when planting in a new place, the root collar should not be buried; the soil level should be maintained the same as that of the original bush;
— to grow spathiphyllum, you should choose small pots, otherwise the plant will begin to actively develop the root system and increase the green mass to the detriment of flowering.
To ensure that the root system is injured as little as possible during division, you can use in the following way. Before removing the plant from the pot, it must be thoroughly watered so that the root system is saturated with moisture and becomes less brittle. It is better not to cut the clod of earth “blindly”, but to carefully soak and wash it away, freeing and unraveling the roots. Then it will be possible to see and evaluate those parts into which the bush needs to be divided. It is advisable to free each finished part from old rotted or dried roots and leaves, sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal, give them time to dry a little and then plant them in a new pot, straightening the roots, gradually sprinkling them with earth and compacting the soil.
A ready-made specialized one for aroids is quite suitable as a substrate, but those who want to please their pet can prepare the soil mixture themselves by taking one part each of peat, leaf and turf soil and adding half a share of coarse river sand.
Cuttings
Leaf rosettes cut from the mother bush in spring or summer are used as cuttings. If they already have a small root system, young plants can be immediately planted in the ground. Otherwise, simple measures will be required to promote rapid development and growth of roots. The simplest thing is to wait for root formation by placing the rosette-cutting in a glass of water, where it is advisable to add half a tablet of activated carbon, otherwise the base of the stem will quickly become covered with mucus and begin to rot.
The process of root formation in a container with water is the simplest, but, as practice shows, in special substrates it is faster and more reliable. As the latter, you can use coarse river sand or perlite. In addition, high peat and sphagnum moss, moistened and tightly compacted around the cuttings, have proven themselves well. To speed up the process, maintain high humidity around the leaf rosette by covering it with a transparent cap or placing the pot with the plant in a mini-greenhouse.
Separately, we note that spathiphyllum does not propagate by leaf cuttings, even if the petiole is cut off from the stem with a “heel”.
Propagation by seeds
Seed propagation of spathiphyllum can be done by those who are interested in the process itself, since growing this plant from seeds is a very difficult and time-consuming task. One of the main problems with this method of propagation is the rapid loss of germination. That is, it is advisable to sow the seeds collected from the plant immediately. And to do this, you must first pollinate blooming spathiphyllum and wait for the seeds to ripen. Neither the first nor the second can be called simple matter, so it’s easier to look for seeds in flower shops.
When purchasing seeds, you need to check their expiration date. As already mentioned, only fresh seeds of spathiphyllum germinate, and even at the very beginning, the percentage of their germination does not exceed half.
The seeds are sown in a bowl with a moist substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat, and placed in a mini-greenhouse with slight heating (up to 24 °C).
Carefully!
When working with spathiphyllum, especially when pruning and dividing the rhizome, you must remember that it belongs to poisonous plants and its juice can cause various allergic reactions. Therefore, you should not allow the plant juice to come into contact with the mucous membranes, and after working with it you should wash your hands thoroughly.
Spathiphyllum - women's happiness in your home!
In nature, spathiphyllum grows in South America, Polynesia and East Asia. This evergreen perennial plant lives in marshy areas, along lakes, rivers and streams. Spathiphyllum is popularly called women's happiness. It is believed that this indoor flower brings its owner good luck and family peace. It is not recommended to give your personal spathiphyllum to someone, since this way you are putting your well-being into the wrong hands.
But a spathiphyllum flower, specially purchased as a gift, will help any woman achieve what she most desires at the moment. For example, it will help an unmarried lady to find love, a childless woman to get pregnant and safely give birth to a healthy child. It is also noteworthy that with constant family scandals and lack of mutual understanding, spathiphyllum cannot develop normally - it dies without having time to please its owner with spectacular flowering.
Of course, just a calm environment in the house is not enough for normal plant growth. Spathiphyllum, like any home flower, requires some attention. And in this article we will tell you what care the plant needs, how to replant it correctly and what the propagation of this indoor flower is. But first, let's look at the types of spathiphyllum so that you can choose your flower.
Variety of spathiphyllums
The types of this plant are varied. They differ in size, color of the spathe (this is the name of the spathiphyllum flower) and the spadix. All indoor varieties are hardy, bloom long and profusely.
A flower with a short rhizome. They reach a height of 30-40 centimeters. The leaves of this variety are dark green, oblong, and have a graceful shape. The cover is white at the beginning of flowering and greenish at the end. The plant is shade-tolerant and does not require any special care;
- Abundantly blooming spathiphyllum
Medium size (50-60 centimeters), has oval leaves. The flower stalks are large, the buds are formed directly in the leaves, which ensures abundant flowering almost all year round;
A large plant, it does not bloom as profusely as the two species described above. The bedspread of this variety of spathiphyllum has a greenish-white tint and resembles a flag.
Flowering lasts from April to June;
A large indoor flower that grows up to one meter in height. The leaves of this variety have an oblong shape, a glossy texture, and wavy edges. The bedspread is white, spoon-shaped;
Also a large plant, the leaves of which are similar to canna leaves. cob yellow color, the bedspread is white and green, with a pungent aroma.
Indoor spathiphyllum has another name - white sail. It appeared due to the shape of its inflorescences. Cut flowers of any variety of spathiphyllum can maintain their freshness for about a month, so florists often use them to create holiday bouquets.
Features of care
All types of this plant are not too picky, so caring for them will not bring you any special problems. Spathiphyllum loves shaded places - bright sunlight is contraindicated for it. However, this does not mean that the flower must be kept in the dark all the time.
If you notice that the leaves of the plant have stretched out and acquired a dark color, it does not have enough lighting. Pamper your spathiphyllum with sunbathing or organize artificial light using fluorescent lamps. By the way, when artificial lighting the flower grows faster and produces buds more often.
Cold air and drafts are destructive for this tropical beauty. Therefore, in winter, pay attention to organizing the desired temperature regime in the room. 23-25 degrees Celsius - here optimal conditions for growing spathiphyllum. Fertilizing is applied during the growth and flowering period, once a week. Before using the fertilizer, carefully read the instructions and act strictly according to them.
If the leaves of a plant droop and wither, it lacks moisture. Remember, the root system of the flower should always be moist. Therefore, spathiphyllum needs to be watered abundantly - as the top soil layer dries out. Once a week, give the flower water treatments in the form of a shower.
Wipe the leaves with a clean cloth to prevent dust accumulation. If after water procedures There is still water in the pan, do not rush to drain it, leave it for several hours. Wet environment The plant needs it both in winter and summer. Therefore, with the onset of cold weather, you should not radically change its contents.
Reproduction and transplantation
Reproduction of spathiphyllum occurs either by dividing the bush (during transplantation) or by apical cuttings. Before you begin propagation (dividing an adult plant), carefully untangle the roots, being careful not to damage them. Then plant the spathiphyllum in new smaller pots. To root cuttings, you need to create a greenhouse effect for them.
After planting the shoot in the ground, cover it with a glass container. When the spathiphyllum sprouts young leaves, you can safely remove the greenhouse. During rooting, water only in the tray. Caring for a young plant is no different from caring for an adult flower.
In order to transplant spathiphyllum, you need to prepare the soil. Mix humus, leaf and turf soil, peat and sand in equal parts. In order for the substrate to have the required breathability, add fine brick chips and pieces of charcoal to it. Before transplanting spathiphyllum, place drainage at the bottom of the pot, for which you can use expanded clay.
Spathiphyllum must be replanted every year with the onset of spring. The size of the pot is selected based on the size of the plant itself. You should not take a container that is too large - this will slow down the growth of the flower in the future. After the transplant is done, place the spathiphyllum in a warm place and spray it daily.
Until the plant takes root, do not water it too much. Rooting takes about a week, so during this time, reduce watering by half. Feeding in given time not needed either. When the spathiphyllum takes root, care returns to its previous regime.
What difficulties may arise when growing spathiphyllum?
Spathiphyllum is considered an unpretentious plant. However, it is not immune to some problems. Let's look at what troubles the owners of this plant can expect when growing it, and what kind of care it needs to recover.
- The tips of the leaves turn yellow and dry
This problem occurs due to insufficient air humidity. In city apartments this is inevitable, even with frequent spraying. It’s easy to increase the humidity: pour pebbles (or other pebbles) into a shallow tray, moisten it, and place spathiphyllum on top. This method good for winter flower maintenance. After all, it is in winter that the air in the room is dry due to heating devices;
- Brown spots on leaves
Excessive soil moisture or stagnation of water in the pan is to blame. Dry the spathiphyllum well (do not water it for 3-4 days). Don't stop spraying the leaves. Then fluff up the soil in the pot, and the next day water the plant generously;
This indicates a lack of minerals in the soil - you need to feed the spathiphyllum. Use nitrogen- and phosphorus-containing fertilizers. Feeding must be started as quickly as possible, otherwise the leaves will completely turn black and fall off.
Spathiphyllum is susceptible to attack by thrips, mealybugs and spider mites. If the insects have not yet completely infested the plant, a regular soap solution will help by washing the leaves.
In advanced cases, special chemicals, sold in flower shops. Sometimes an unplanned plant transplant is required.
So we learned all about spathiphyllum, the flowering of which will not leave any person indifferent. Love the plant and, if possible, provide it with proper care. The flower will do the rest itself - it will bring real feminine happiness to your home!
Proper transplantation and propagation of indoor spathiphyllum.
Proper transplantation and propagation of indoor spathiphyllum.
A spectacular, stemless plant of dark green leaves always looks impressive, especially when in bloom. Spathiphyllum is great for beginning gardeners to get their teeth into and show off their successes to their friends. Beautiful inflorescences should appear in early spring, and please the eye for a month. At proper care The plant blooms several times a month.
Interesting! Psychologists believe that spathiphyllum helps purify the air in the room, which has a beneficial effect on a person’s mental state.
General useful information
Direct sunlight will be harmful for the leaves, but the flower loves diffused sunlight, wet air. Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, therefore, you need to find it in the apartment optimal place for him, which will ensure active growth. You should not let the leaves grow too actively, because this stops the flowering process.
In winter, you need to especially carefully protect the flower from the cold, which it cannot tolerate. Only at a room temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and above will the plant grow well and develop properly. As for the ideal temperature - this is 23 degrees Celsius, ensure such conditions in ordinary apartment quite simple.
Every week the leaves should be cleaned of dust and the plant should be sprayed. Water only when the top layer dries. If there are large leaves, watering should be provided a little more often. If the leaves droop and the tips begin to dry, then the spathiphyllum does not have enough moisture; you can place a tray with wet moss or wet stones next to it.
Reproduction of spathiphyllum
- It is best to propagate the plant in early spring - early March. You can propagate the flower by ordinary division of the bush. You can also use apical cuttings for this, but it is better to abandon the method of propagation by seeds: it takes a long time and is not effective.
When dividing bushes, the roots should be untangled as carefully as possible. For planting, smaller pots are selected than the one in which the plant grew entirely. When greenhouse conditions are created, spathiphyllum will quickly take root. But it is imperative to provide several hours of ventilation per day, otherwise excess moisture will negatively affect overall growth.
A shortened plant stem may begin to branch after propagation. This good sign that new growth points are being formed. Young leaves will begin to appear in several places at once.
You should not grow large greens, because they minimize the possibility of flowering.
How to transplant spathiphyllum?
Spathiphyllum is extremely sensitive to root damage. The transplantation must be carried out carefully, perhaps even without gloves, so that you can feel each root with your fingers. After transplantation, it is necessary to provide the flower with warmth, moderate watering and frequent spraying. These three factors contribute to rapid rooting. The pot should not be too large, otherwise the growth and flowering of the plant will be extremely slow.
Suitable soil for replanting:
Turf; Humus; Sand; Leafy;
Peat;
It will be great if you mix several types of soil.
The substrate must be moisture permeable and also allow air to pass through well.
Spathiphyllum: description, cultivation and care at home
A slightly acidic environment should be provided by adding sand, charcoal or brick chips to the bud. It is imperative to have good drainage.
Young plants should be replanted once a year, and then you can switch to the regime of one replant every three codes. Signal for replanting - the roots have filled the entire volume of the pot and they simply have nowhere to develop further.
With proper care, maintenance, transplantation and propagation, spathiphyllum is resistant to pathogens and pests. If the air in the apartment is dry and watering is insufficient, then certain problems may begin: dry leaves, lack of flowering, the appearance of aphids or mites.
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Spathiphyllum is a beautiful indoor plant that is extremely attractive to the eye. juicy greens leaves and a beautiful inflorescence: a creamy cob with a white blanket - a sail at the base. The plant does not require abundant sunlight, prefers partial shade, and does not like heavy feeding. The ease of care, cultivation and propagation allows spathiphyllum to take its rightful place among other indoor flowers.
There are some features of propagating spathiphyllum at home. This article gives useful recommendations about plant propagation methods. The most accessible and common are: propagation of spathiphyllum by dividing the bush and cuttings. The option of propagation by seeds is possible. The method of propagation by spathiphyllum leaves is not found in the literature.
Propagation by seeds
Let’s make a reservation right away: propagation by seeds is a very labor-intensive process.
Caring for spathiphyllum at home
At home, it is difficult to artificially pollinate a flower, obtain seeds, and create conditions for their ripening. The germination capacity of spathiphyllum seeds is very low and is quickly lost. If you still managed to get spathiphyllum seeds, you can try this propagation method.
Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in moist soil consisting of sand and peat. You should ensure that the soil is constantly moist, but not wet. When the seedlings appear, they need to be ventilated periodically by opening the greenhouse slightly. This method of propagation is possible, but is not recommended for reproducing spathiphyllum at home, as it is complicated and not always effective.
Read also: How to grow a pumpkin yourself?
Cuttings
The vegetative method of propagating spathiphyllum is the most acceptable at home. Cuttings are a small collection of young leaves at the base of the mother plant with the beginnings of a root system.
It is best to root cuttings in spring and summer. Rosettes of cuttings are carefully separated from the mother plant. For rooting, use containers with wet sand. Cuttings root well in moistened perlite. In order for the roots to grow well, the cuttings are placed in a mini greenhouse.
When well-developed roots appear, the cuttings are planted in a prepared earth mixture. Mix peat, sand, leaf, humus and garden soil in equal proportions. Young plants are watered.
Dividing the bush
The most convenient and common way to propagate spathiphyllum is by dividing the bush. The plant grows, forms many young rosettes with leaves and requires annual replanting. At this time, you can divide the mother plant into separate parts. This must be done very carefully, without damaging the root system. Otherwise, young plants will not take root. If there are no roots on the cuttings, they should be placed in water until roots appear and only then planted in the ground.
Each division must have at least 3 leaves and its own core. Plants should not be planted in flower pots large diameters. Root system will “fatten” until it takes up the entire space of the pot. In this case, you will have to wait a very long time for the spathiphyllum to bloom.
Plants are planted in special prepared soil for aroid plants. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself, as described above. A layer of expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot. It serves good drainage system when watering. Expanded clay retains moisture well and prevents the roots from drying out quickly.
When planting cuttings, do not bury the root collar of the plant. If the plant is deeply buried, you may not wait for the spathiphyllum to bloom. The propagation process by dividing the bush should occur at a temperature of at least 20 degrees.
The ease of caring for the plant and fabulous beauty raise spathiphyllum to the pedestal of honor among favorite indoor pets. Using simple methods of plant propagation, you can please yourself, your friends and family with new specimens of this unsurpassed beauty indoor flower.
Who is unfamiliar with the delicate ears of flowers, carefully protected by a light blanket-sail, protruding from the juicy emerald foliage of spathiphyllum - an evergreen perennial, long cultivated in indoor floriculture. This typical representative of the Araceae family has acquired another unambiguous name - women's happiness.
Main characteristics
Numbering up to 40 species, spathiphyllum is common in the habitat familiar to aroids - the shady rain forests of Central and South America, New Guinea, the Philippine and Solomon Islands. Excellent endurance and love for high humidity distinguishes all types of this plant - both cultivated and wild. Spathiphyllum was “domesticated” by English breeders back in the 19th century, and today there are many varieties of the crop – from small dwarfs to impressively sized giants with dark green or textured variegated leaves.
The absence of a stem in the flower adds decorativeness, since the leaves located close to each other emerge from the rhizome in a bunch and grow back, effectively bending and forming a luxurious bush. The leaf is entire, lanceolate, with textured relief veins.
Inflorescence - spadix on long peduncle, wrapped in a white blanket that turns green over time. Flowering begins in spring and lasts several weeks. Good care for spathiphyllum - a guarantee of repeated flowering in autumn or winter.
How to care for a plant
The unpretentiousness of this culture has become the talk of the town, but in order to achieve generous flowering it is worth taking care of it. In addition, you won’t have to work hard, since caring for spathiphyllum at home is completely easy.
Lighting and room temperature
Spathiphyllum is shade-tolerant, but develops better in illuminated places, feeling excellent on northern window sills or near windows in the eastern and western directions under diffused light. It develops well at a sufficient distance from light sources, which is very valuable for arranging the interior of offices and offices.
How to care for spathiphyllum, rules for growing a flower at home
The plant compensates for the lack of light with a slight slowdown in growth, rare flowering and more intense coloring of the foliage, which, however, does not affect the overall decorative effect.
Spathiphyllum does not make any special demands on air temperature and grows productively at 18-25˚C at any time of the year. It is important not to lower the temperature, since a decrease to 12-14˚C will hinder the development of the plant, and 10˚C is already a serious threat that can provoke root rotting and death.
Spathiphyllum does not tolerate drafts, so when choosing a place for a flower, this circumstance is taken into account.
Selecting soil for planting
The substrate should be light and breathable. The habits acquired by wild-growing representatives, whose habitat is the lower tier of rain forests with loose, fertile soil flavored with compost, have an effect. The best soil for spathiphyllum - a mixture consisting of peat, garden soil, vermiculite, crushed charcoal and wood chips in the ratio 3 * 2 * 2 * 1.
To avoid root rot, use drainage - expanded clay or fine gravel.
Transfer
Young fast-growing spathiphyllums are replanted annually in the spring. Adult plants that have reached 4-5 years of age are not touched until the roots begin to appear from the drainage holes of the container. A narrow and shallow pot is convenient for spathiphyllum, since in large containers the soil turns sour and inhibits growth, and flowering does not occur until the roots grow to cover the entire volume of the container.
Important! With each subsequent transplant, the size of the new container increases slightly - by 1-1.5 cm.
Immediately before transplanting, the spathiphyllum is well watered. The ability of the plant to grow quickly leads to the shredding of the leaves and, in order for the flower to delight with large textured foliage and tall peduncles, when transplanting, the lateral shoots of the spathiphyllum are separated, which draw nutrition to themselves. A layer of expanded clay (2.5-3 cm) is placed at the bottom of the container, then the plant is placed together with a lump of earth and the soil is added, carefully compacting it, after which it is generously watered with water with the addition of aloe juice. Over the next 3-5 days, the plant should not be moistened, but it should be sprayed twice a day.
Watering
Despite its love of humidity, spathiphyllum does not welcome stagnation of water in the pan. Watering during the active period should be generous but reasonable: as the surface layer of soil dries, the crop is moistened abundantly. During the quiet period (from November to January), watering is reduced, still preventing the earthen clod from drying out completely. Taking into account the high level of dry air in city apartments in winter, monitor water regime should always be done. It is useful to place the container with the plant in a tray with wet pebbles for the winter.
The air humidity in the room should be high, and with the onset of the spring-summer season, frequent spraying is carried out, which the sapatiphyllum gratefully accepts, significantly adding decorativeness.
Reproduction
The preferred method of propagating spathiphyllum is by dividing the bush. By separating the lateral rosette shoots during spring transplantation, the florist receives ready-made planting material. Viable shoots must have at least 3-4 leaves growing from the core and roots.
Advice! If there are no roots, the rosettes are placed in water and waited for them to grow. Planting such a division - a win-win, she will definitely take root.
The divisions are planted immediately in separate containers filled with special soil for aroids or a prepared substrate, the composition of which is indicated above, and cared for as independent plants.
Important! When planting a division, the root collar is not buried, otherwise the spathiphyllum may not bloom.
A possible option is propagation by cuttings, which are a cluster of young leaves with root rudiments at the base of the mother plant. It is not recommended to trim spathiphyllum when separating rosette cuttings. Young rosettes easily move away from the mother plant. In summer and spring, they take root well in containers with damp perlite or sand. Film cover will speed up rooting. When roots appear, the seedlings are placed in separate small containers with a mixture of sand, peat, humus and garden soil (1*1*1*3).
Seed propagation by flower growers is not practiced, since even ripened seeds have low germination and do not always carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. You can sow the seeds immediately after collection in a damp mixture of sand and peat. The seedling box is covered with film or glass and ventilated periodically to avoid mold.
Fertilizers and frequency of application
During the period of activity from March to October, spathiphyllum requires feeding with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer(1.5 g/1 l) once every 15-20 days. In the spring, it is more effective to alternate mineral nutrition with organic matter, for example, “Kemiru-universal” with humus or a 5% solution of mullein infusion. By winter, fertilizing is stopped, but if the plant continues to grow or bloom rapidly, then it is necessary to fertilize it once a month. This “behavior” is facilitated by high-quality care, proper hydration and feeding.
Diseases and problems
Despite the fact that the plant's endurance is very high, sometimes spathiphyllum is attacked by aphids, and errors in the watering regime provoke the appearance of spider mites. You can combat them with home remedies by wiping the leaves weekly with a solution of soap containing nicotine sulfate. The substrate in the container is first covered with a protective film. A day after treatment, the drug is washed off from the leaves. Repeat this operation as necessary.
Important! Simple hygiene procedures - wiping leaves from dust and periodic inspections will help avoid pest attacks or prevent them in time.
Diseases are usually the result of illiterate care. For example, leaves turn yellow or wither if there are errors in the regularity of watering and the soil dries out. If this has already happened, then the plant should be brought back to normal by gradually soaking the soil and increasing the volume of water. Yellowing of the foliage is also caused by a lack of nutrients; following a feeding regime will help eliminate it.
The situation in which the leaves of the spathiphyllum turn black becomes more dangerous. As a rule, this is a sign of the death of the root system, which often occurs when the flower is overwatered, kept in an insufficiently warm room, or overfed.
Advice! If the leaves turn black, it is necessary to remove the plant from the container, inspect the roots and remove the problematic ones, and then replant them in a new substrate, after holding them in the Epin or Zircon solution.
The tips of spathiphyllum leaves dry out when the air in the room is too dry or cold and there is a lack of nutrition.
It’s not difficult to fix this problem; you just need to balance the feeding and also change the temperature and humidity in the room.
Spathiphyllum does not bloom if the rules of planting and care are violated.
Excessive depth of the outlet when planting a plant, too spacious container or application liquid wax when caring for leaves - all this provokes a significant delay in flowering.
Note that fixing the listed troubles is not difficult. Spathiphyllum is extremely responsive to quality care, and as soon as its vital processes are restored, the decorative value of this elegant beauty also increases.
In total there are about 45 varieties of spathiphyllum.
Spathiphyllum or Spathiphyllum is a genus of plants in the Araceae family, numbering more than 40 species. Evergreen perennials come from tropical forests: their homeland is considered South America, East Asia, Polynesia, New Guinea island. Under natural conditions, Spathiphyllum grows along the banks of streams, rivers, and in swampy areas. Many varieties of Spathiphyllum are successfully grown at home.
It is believed that spathiphyllum can work wonders: give love to a lonely woman, bring peace and harmony to the life of a married couple. Therefore among the people amazing flower called "women's happiness." And for the delicate snow-white cover of the perianth, the plant received another name - “white sail”.
The stemless indoor plant spathiphyllum has many species, among which there are dwarfs and giants with rich green or bright light foliage. The dimensions of the oval or lance-shaped basal leaves of different types vary from 20 cm to 1 m.
The spathiphyllum flower is a spadix of white, cream, greenish or yellowish hue. The inflorescence is located on a long peduncle, shrouded in white or pale green perianth, resembling a leaf in shape. By the end of flowering, the perianth turns green.
Kinds
The most popular among gardeners are five species.
IN various sources You can find another species - Spathiphyllum Red. In reality it is an anthurium. After all, not a single variety of spathiphyllum has red inflorescences.
Basics of care
Many gardeners know that anthurium and spathiphyllum require almost the same conditions. But there is still a slight difference. So how to care for spathiphyllum? The flower needs to be provided with optimal temperature, humidity, and lighting. Water, prune, and replant indoor plants in a timely manner.
Temperature
The indoor flower loves warmth. In the warm season, the optimal temperature is 20–23 °C, although the plant normally tolerates hotter conditions – up to 26–27 °C. In winter for full development The optimal temperature is 15–17 °C. The plant can withstand cold down to 12–13 °C, but its growth in this case stops.
Spathiphyllum reacts extremely negatively to drafts and may die.
Humidity
To create a humid microclimate, you need to regularly spray the plant.
In addition to temperature, you need to ensure sufficient humidity: home beautiful flower should be sprayed three times a day in summer, once a day in winter. Dust from the surface of the leaves should be carefully wiped with a damp sponge or cloth. Detergents, hard rags cannot be used - you can damage the delicate surface of the leaves.
Lighting
The indoor beauty grows best in partial shade, places with diffused lighting (including artificial light). It is strictly forbidden to place the flowerpot in the open sun: direct sunlight burns the leaves and slows down growth.
Watering
For irrigation, it is recommended to use soft, settled water. Watering should be carried out promptly and correctly - do not overdry, do not overfill with water. If you do not water the spathiphyllum regularly, the flowers will dry out and the leaves will turn yellow. And an excess of moisture will cause blackening, rotting of the root system and death of the flower. Each subsequent watering is carried out only when the top layer of soil dries out.
Transfer
The root system of the flower develops quite quickly, completely filling the space of the pot. Therefore, spathiphyllum is transplanted every year, preferably in the spring. To grow the rhizome, you need to take a pot slightly larger than the previous one. In this case, the pot should be wide enough, not too deep.
It is best to replant spathiphyllum using the method of transferring an earthen clod - not shaking the soil from the roots, but replanting it along with it. This will prevent damage to the roots and the flower will take root better.
If the tips dry out, the leaves should not be cut off completely, but only the dry part.
Circumcision
To prevent the flower from getting sick, you need to trim:
- dry, old, diseased leaves;
- dried tips of leaves;
- peduncles on which the flower has faded (this will stimulate new flowering).
How to grow spathiphyllum?
Mostly grown at home hybrid varieties spathiphyllum (they are hardier, bloom longer), as well as some species plants.
Planting and soil
Peat and leaf soil for growing spathiphyllum is mixed with sand and humus (component ratio 1:1:1:0.5). To ensure that the soil is loose, absorbs moisture well and allows air to pass through, a small amount of charcoal, brick chips and crushed tree bark are added to it. The mixture of these components should be a tenth of the amount of soil substrate.
It is not advisable to replant spathiphyllum at the age of 5 years and older; it is better to periodically replace the top layer of soil in the flowerpot. If the condition requires a transplant, then the procedure can be performed, but not more often than once every 5 years.
Care must be taken during circumcision and transplantation. The plant juice is poisonous and can cause skin irritation and local allergic reactions. After working with a flower, be sure to wash your hands.
Top dressing
Mineral fertilizers are applied during the growing season - in the spring. Substances are diluted in a ratio of 1–1.5 g per 1 liter of water. Fertilizing is also carried out in the summer and during the formation of flowers. Young plants are fertilized once a week, adult flowers - once a month. In winter, spathiphyllum is also fed, but less often and in smaller quantities.
Problems in growing
For those who grow spathiphyllum, care at home does not present any particular difficulties. However, spathiphyllum is susceptible to disease and can be affected by insect pests. Below are the most common problems that gardeners face when growing, and ways to solve them.
Leaves turn yellow and wither
This situation occurs when the soil in the pot dries out. If the spathiphyllum has dropped yellowed leaves, it needs to be watered more often to completely soak the soil. In this case, the amount of water should be increased gradually - a sharp transition from drought to abundant watering should not be allowed.
The tips of the leaves dry out
The most common causes of dry leaves are:
- planting in unsuitable soil;
- direct sunlight (causes leaf burn);
- a sharp transition from drought to abundant watering;
- watering with too cold water;
- low air humidity (especially in the heat in summer, or in winter when heating devices are on).
You can ensure sufficient humidity by:
- regular spraying;
- placing a tray with sand or expanded clay moistened with water near the flowerpot;
- special devices - humidifiers.
The leaves turn black
Black leaves of spathiphyllum can signal excess moisture, which has caused rotting of the roots.
- frequent or copious spraying;
- low air temperature;
- lack or excess of nutrients (usually deficiency of phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizers);
- excess moisture.
With excess moisture, the leaf blades turn black, and the root system rots and dies. If the leaves turn black, the flower must be removed from the pot. After examining the root system, remove rotten roots and replant the flower in another soil.
If the leaves on the spathiphyllum have turned black due to a deficiency of nutrients, you need to feed it with complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
Spider mite
A dangerous pest appears on the underside of leaf blades, covering them with cobwebs. Soon the leaves begin to dry out. The diseased plant is sprayed with a soap solution, after cleaning the leaves from cobwebs with a damp sponge.
If the solution does not help, you can use insecticides and ground sulfur. Some gardeners in the fight against spider mite use the following recipe: 100 g of onion peels are poured with 5 liters of water, left for at least 5 days. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the plant.
Aphid
Black, green or gray aphids settle at the bottom of the leaf blade and multiply very quickly. The pest feeds on the sap of the plant, as a result of which the leaves begin to dry out and curl. To kill aphids, the plant is treated with a solution of nicotine sulfate (1 g of product diluted in 1 liter of water) or a soap solution. If necessary, repeat the treatment.
Shchitovka
When attacked by a scale insect, the leaf blades become covered with dark spots. The plant is treated with a soap solution with the addition of tobacco and kerosene. Then wash the flower with a clean soap solution and insecticides.
Mealybug
Mealybugs appear between the leaves due to excessive dampness. If there are not many insects, they can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in alcohol. In case of severe infection, the plant must be treated with actellik, insecticides or infusion of citrus fruit peels.
During treatment, you need to make sure that the solution does not get into the soil, otherwise not only the pests will die, but also the flower itself. After treatment, the plant is washed, and the ground is also covered with film.
How does it bloom?
Blooming spathiphyllum can cause allergies.
Amazing spathiphyllum flowers in the form of an inflorescence-cob, shrouded in a delicate blanket, appear in the spring and delight the eye for 2-3 weeks. If optimal conditions and care are provided, flowers will appear twice a year. Some varieties bloom up to six months - from March to September, or all year round.
Spathiphyllum, like anthurium, can cause allergic reactions during the flowering period because it releases pollen.
Reproduction of spathiphyllum
The plant can be propagated in three ways:
- dividing the rhizome;
- cuttings;
- seeds.
By dividing the rhizome
Dividing the bush is a simple method of propagation, which will also be useful for the mother plant. The resulting cuttings are ready-made young plants that do not require special procedures. They just need to be planted in separate pots.
They know how to plant spathiphyllum correctly experienced flower growers. For beginners they recommend:
- carry out the procedure at a temperature of 20 ° C;
- Before removing from the pot, water the plant well so that the roots are saturated with water and become less brittle;
- remove dried or rotten roots and limp leaves from the separated plant;
- When transplanting, young spathiphyllum should be planted in a small pot (diameter up to 15 cm);
- transplant into a similar one soil substrate or a mixture consisting of peat, leaf, coniferous soil, humus and sand (all components are mixed in equal quantities, with the exception of sand, which should be taken in half).
Cuttings
The cutting is a leaf rosette cut from the mother plant. The cuttings are placed in a container with water for 14–20 days until the root system appears. To prevent the base of the stem from rotting, add activated carbon to the water (½ tablet per glass of liquid). As soon as the roots grow 2–3 cm, the plant is planted in the ground.
Seeds
For those who decide to grow spathiphyllum from seeds, reproduction will take a lot of time and effort. This is a complex, time-consuming process, since the plant’s seeds quickly lose their viability. After pollination of the flower, you need to wait for the seeds to ripen, and once collected, sow them immediately. A simpler method is to purchase seeds from a specialized flower shop.
The seeds are planted in a container with a moist substrate consisting of sand and peat and placed in a miniature heated greenhouse (up to 24 ° C). Soil moisture is maintained by spraying, and the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. With an increased level of humidity, mold may appear on the surface of the substrate, and the seeds will begin to rot.
What to do if it doesn't bloom?
Not every gardener's purchased spathiphyllum blooms. The reason for the lack of flowers is improper care, namely low air temperature, insufficient humidity, and deficiency of nutrients. It is necessary to ensure optimal temperature and humidity, increase the dose of fertilizing, and gentle beautiful flowers will definitely appear.
If you plant a flower in a pot that is too large, it will grow root and foliage mass, but there will be no flowers.
Replanting after purchase into a pot that is too large can also delay the appearance of flowers. Until the space of the pot is completely filled with roots, you should not expect flowering. You can correct the situation by transplanting the plant into a smaller pot.
Where can I buy?
You can purchase the plant or its seeds in specialized stores. When purchasing seeds, be sure to check the expiration date - old seeds will not sprout.
A young plant can be bought in specialized retail outlets, greenhouses or online stores that provide not only sales, but also delivery. The price of plants varies widely, depending on the age and type of plant, location and status of the store.
Types of spathiphyllum Chopin and Cupido can be bought for 300 rubles. The average price for Spathiphyllum Mozart ranges from 1,000 rubles, and the cost of the Claudius species reaches 6,000 rubles.
Proper care of spathiphyllum will ensure its good growth. And the unusual home flower will thank the hostess for her care - she will delight with her delicate flowers with a light aroma, bright green lush leaves. And the plant will give harmony and peace of mind, will help you fulfill all your dreams and desires.
For a family such as spathiphyllum, propagation can be carried out using several methods. The spathiphyllum root is a large creeping underground organ of the plant. He is directly involved in the divorce. At the time of transplantation, which is carried out in the spring, the rhizome is divided into several small parts, while maintaining the optimal temperature 20 - 21°С.
For neat lovers compact bushes and excluding extensive branching, which is activated by numerous growth points per tuber, the plant should be divided into fragments. Each such section will be a part of the rhizome, with a growing point and 2-3 leaves located on it. Such fragments are placed in pots with a ready-made substrate, the dimensions of which do not exceed 12 - 15 cm.
Spathiphyllum propagation: root division
When dividing a tuber, it is necessary to monitor the presence of a growing point and at least two leaves in each separated area. In this case, pots are selected in small sizes with low walls. A room with a warm climate and wet sand - the necessary conditions For good rooting pet. Planting in pots is carried out only after several roots appear on the cuttings of the plant.
The acidity of the soil for breeding this species must be maintained within slightly acidic values ( pH - from 5 to 6.5).
The composition of the soil should include turf, peat, leaf soil and sand in proportions of 0.5: 1: 1: 0.5.
In addition, it is useful to mix the soil mixture with brick chips in combination with charcoal. Having good drainage is very important for the comfortable growth of the plant. 
Spathiphyllum propagation by seeds
Reproduction by rhizome fragments is a very simple method. It is much more difficult to try to grow a new shoot from a seed. To obtain seeds, the mother plant is artificially pollinated, which produces green berries. These are fruits with numerous seeds. Ready seeds should not be stored for a long time, because germination rates quickly decrease. They must be immediately placed in sand and peat soil, and a film or other covering material will help maintain the required temperature. Close attention must also be paid to soil moisture.
The indoor flower spathiphyllum has long been very popular and respected among gardeners for its many advantages. It combines attractiveness and beauty with the ability to purify the air in residential areas. – unpretentious plant, which is easy to propagate and does not require much experience in floriculture. If you have an adult specimen, you can easily obtain planting material in the form of seeds, cuttings or a divided bush.
Propagation by seeds
This method is difficult and time-consuming. The process of growing spathiphyllum from seeds will require a lot of patience and time. The seeds lose their viability very quickly and cannot be stored. It is recommended to sow them immediately after harvest. And in order for the seeds to ripen, you will first need to pollinate the flowering plant. indoor plant. Since this is a complex and lengthy task, it is much easier to purchase seeds in specialized stores for flower growers. The germination percentage of even the freshest seeds is approximately half, so when purchasing planting material It is very important to pay attention to its expiration date.
To sow seeds, you can use a small container (like a plate or saucer), and a mixture of equal parts of peat and sand is suitable as soil. The conditions for seed germination should be greenhouse, with an air temperature of 24-25 degrees. Watering the soil is carried out by spraying. When placing a container in a mini-greenhouse, it is very important to regularly ventilate it. An excess of moisture on the soil surface can contribute to the development of mold, which will lead to the death of the seed material.
This method is very convenient and easy to perform. For an adult spathiphyllum, it is also useful, as it “thins out” the dense thickets of a mature flower. The plant grows very quickly and numerous young rosettes absorb all the nutrients from the soil, depriving the mother plant. Dividing the bush as necessary has a beneficial effect on the further growth and development of spathiphyllum.
To carry out the procedure for separating young plants, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.
Dividing the bush should be done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. The root system of each division must be very strong and without damage. A delenka is ready for independent growth if it has at least three leaf rosettes that are already well developed. When planting, the root collar of young plants should be at the same soil level as that of the mother bush.
The flower container for planting young spathiphyllum should be small in volume, because in deep and wide pots the root part will actively develop, and this will lead to rapid growth leaf part and delay in the flowering process.
The division of the root system of an adult plant must be carried out with minimal trauma to the roots and the entire flower as a whole. Before starting the procedure, it is recommended to thoroughly water the soil in flower pot, which will make it easier to extract the flower along with the earthen lump and give the roots time to absorb moisture in order to reduce their fragility.
After removing the plant, you need to carefully wash all the roots from the soil and, if possible, untangle them. In this form, the root part will be easier and more correct to divide. It is recommended to sprinkle the cut areas on the roots with crushed or activated charcoal and leave to dry for a while.
Before planting each division, you need to carefully inspect them and remove dried or rotten parts of the root system and leaves. Each young plant is planted in a small individual container. Fragile roots need to be spread over the surface of the soil and carefully sprinkled with soil mixture, and then lightly compact the soil.
Soil composition: leaf soil (1 part), peat soil (1 part), turf soil (1 part), coarse river sand (1/2 part). For planting divisions, you can also purchase a ready-made soil mixture intended for plants of the Araceae family.
Cuttings are leaf rosettes separated from an adult spathiphyllum. If there are small roots, the cuttings can be immediately planted in the soil, but if they are absent, they must be placed in a container with water and activated carbon until the root part is formed.
Faster root formation on young plants occurs in special substrates (for example, in perlite or coarse river sand, in high peat or sphagnum moss), if the flower container is placed in a greenhouse or under a glass cover to maintain high level humidity.
Spathiphyllum flower - propagation and transplantation (video)