Plants for landscaping the balcony. Landscaping of balconies and loggias. The simplest methods of “green” balcony design

With the onset of the warm season, you need to think about arranging your balcony and one of the options for this is its landscaping, which has recently become increasingly popular. This is especially true for city residents, because it is much more pleasant to go out and breathe fresh air not in a gray lifeless box, but in a beautiful fragrant mini-garden created with your own hands. In addition, for some, this is the only opportunity to realize their love for flowers and creating amazing compositions from them, consisting of petunias, daisies, pansies and others.

When landscaping, it is necessary to take into account some nuances, in particular, on which side of the world the loggia itself is located. It is also necessary to consider how the flowers will be protected from the scorching sun or strong wind. If the balcony is glazed, you should periodically ventilate it, but without creating drafts. Therefore, it is very important to purchase the necessary species and varieties of plants adapted to certain conditions.

Sun-loving flowers

Almost all flowers are sun-loving, and when creating compositions from them, it is necessary to take into account their flowering period. Then you can be sure that your loggia will be fragrant and arouse admiration all summer, and almost half of the autumn, until the very frosts. It is worth paying attention to flowers such as kobeya, petunia, ampelous pelargonium, mignonette, asters and others. You can see them in the photo.

Begonia, daisies, pansies and viola, planting which in May, you can get a multi-colored carpet at the end of spring. And petunia, begonia and kobeya will delight you with their flowering until the frosts. But on the sunny side you should not experiment with exotic flowers, as they are very picky about their habitat and can not only stop blooming, but also die.

Shade-loving flowers

Do not be upset if the room is located on the north or shady side of the house; there are many flowers that take root well and even bloom magnificently in such conditions. These include marigolds, ageratum, fuchsia, calceolaria, mignonette and others. If there is strong shade, it is better to decorate your balcony with daisies, begonias and nasturtiums, which have beautiful rounded leaves. Clearly visible in the photo different variants planting plants.

If the loggia is located on a very windy side and, moreover, on a high floor, you should not be upset either, because landscaping in such conditions is also possible. In such a situation, it is better to plant low-growing marigolds, daisies, gatsaniya and sedums, that is, flowers that do not grow tall.

Flower placement options

Depending on what kind of balcony you have and what size it is, you can do landscaping on it in two ways:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

The first is usually used for a small area in order to visually enlarge it. Pots or boxes with flowers are placed on the outside or inside of the railing in one line. To do landscaping vertical way, it is necessary that there is enough free space. This method is more suitable for loggias. Racks or shelves with pots are installed near the wall or on the sides. It would also look nice if you placed a long container near the wall, opposite the railing, and planted creeping plants such as ivy or grapes there.

In the free space, you can place several pots and boxes with plants at once, of different shapes and sizes, and create different compositions from them. In addition, they can be constantly swapped, thereby changing the overall appearance of the room. All kinds of flowers of different flowering periods and heights can be planted in containers.

Nowadays, many people prefer to insulate loggias, so that they are relatively warm and humid all year round. Already in early spring, it will be possible to grow bulbous crops such as tulips, crocuses, daffodils and hyacinths there. It is also possible to display some indoor and exotic flowers there: pelargoniums, violets, anthurium, dieffenbachia and others. All this can be seen in the photo. It is not recommended to plant them in open ground, but in a place such as an insulated balcony with high humidity, they will feel great.

Landscaping can not only bring pleasure and joy, especially if it is done with your own hands, but also allows you to create your own little living corner. There you can relax after working days, relax and enjoy the beauty and aroma of flowers such as petunia, begonia, rose, aster and others. The photo shows various options for arranging balconies and examples of the arrangement of flowers on it.

Sometimes there is a desire to get away as far as possible from the daily bustle and relax at least for a short time in nature - among the singing of birds, fresh greenery, the aroma of bright flowers. Of course, you can take a vacation and go away from civilization for a few days. But what to do if you still have a long wait for a well-deserved rest, but you want to plunge into the delightful world of flora immediately. In such cases, you can sigh sadly, or you can... You can create a green paradise on your own balcony. And doing this is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

The landscaped balcony looks amazing!

So, you have decided: the loggia needs landscaping. But where to start? There is a lot of special literature and recommendations on how to properly and tastefully carry out landscaping on a balcony. But the general rules are always the same.

Preparing the balcony step by step:

1. Clear the space of unnecessary things.
2. Determine the balcony area and size suitable colors.
3. Draw a landscaping diagram for the balcony.
4. Analyze which of the flowerpots already in the house are suitable for such purposes.
5. Select new plants to decorate the loggia.
6. Buy suitable flower containers.

When choosing, you should take into account the features of the balcony, especially in which direction it is located

When choosing flowers for decoration, it is important to be guided by two principles. You can decorate as tightly as possible free space greenery or just add accents using compositions with bright flowers. But it is not advisable to fill small balconies too tightly. To decorate loggias and terraces use different rules and principles. For example, on a small balcony, one row of flower pots along the railing is quite enough. Flowers can be placed both on the inside and outside of the balcony.

In general, decoration styles can be very different, and a blooming composition is the result of your imagination and taste. The simplest option is one long container with a set of colors. The balcony, decorated with a cascade of greenery, looks beautiful. On large balconies and loggias, you can landscape the space using containers and pots of different sizes, therefore, the sizes of plants are also used in a variety of sizes.

Through West to East

In order for the flora to perform the role of decorating balconies efficiently and not wither under the summer sun, it is important to take into account the location of the terrace and the flower’s preferences in terms of lighting.

South side

Climbing plants can create a living curtain on your balcony

For landscaping southern balconies Heat-loving and heat-tolerant plants, such as succulents and cacti, are suitable. But even at the peak of the heat, they should do shading. The southern sun is absolutely not suitable for fragile indoor flowerpots. However, they also don’t like rain.

East and west windows

Loggias on the east or west side are liked by almost all indoor greenery. But you should not place flowers on such a balcony that do not tolerate “moving” and temperature fluctuations.

North terrace

This place is not suitable for growing sun loving plants– they will bloom weakly or will not please you with bright flowers at all. But on northern balconies, shade-loving flowers with dark green leaves look beautiful and grow delightfully.

To each his own

There are several types of loggia design:

• using indoor flowers;
• ampelous;
• using climbing varieties.

You can try to get creative and use combined decoration.

Houseplants

Indoor plants will look great on balconies

In summer, indoor flowers can always be taken out to the terrace and beautifully arranged throughout the entire area of ​​the balcony. They will feel great here - there is a lot of light, a more comfortable level of humidity, and the air temperature corresponds to natural conditions.

Use: geranium, fuchsia, begonia, aloe, balsam, amaryllis.

Ampelous plants

Ampelous landscaping of a balcony involves growing plants in hanging planters. Flowers with flowing shoots and many flowers look beautiful in such pots. This decoration resembles bright colored balls. But if you decide to resort to this type of landscaping, it is important to use special containers for hanging flowers (with reliable fastening and a stand for draining excess water). There are many varieties of flora to grow in pots.

Ampel planting of balconies is a solution for small areas, where in small areas you can hang many pots of flowers in a beautiful and original way. Decorative baskets will decorate the balcony on both sides - internal and external, on different levels. Allows you to create compositions from greenery of different sizes.

Use: ageratum, verbena, petunia, lobelia, bindweed, pelargonium, godetia, fortunia.

climbing plants

Climbing varieties are very popular in the art of landscaping balconies, because they are ideal for the role of living curtains. And different types of vines will add completeness to the greenery composition.

Use: nasturtium, morning glory, kobea, clematis, sweet peas, decorative beans, thunbergia.

Vegetables on the balcony are not just beautiful, but also healthy!

Vegetables as decoration

Often herbs and vegetables are successfully grown as landscaping elements on balconies. Such landscaping not only gives a decorative effect, but also allows you to create a small vegetable bed right on the balcony.

Use: balsam, parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, marjoram, mint, dill, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, radishes, onions, zucchini, carrots, garlic.

Combining plants

Of course, during the time of flowering, you want the balcony to be filled with as many bright colors as possible: from rich shades of green to a delicate heavenly tone or, conversely, a fiery red color. But when combining different plants, and even more so creating compositions of indoor flowers, it is important to take into account the compatibility of plants with each other. As practice shows, some flowers get along nicely and even begin to bloom more intensely with an advantageous neighbor, while others do not get along well in the same “living space.”

But in order for decorative greenery to delight the eye with its beauty for a long time, it is important to adhere to several recommendations of professionals.

1. Before placing pots, study the compatibility of colors on the same balcony.
2. Water and feed greens according to requirements.
3. To create a composition of small varieties, use one large container.
4. When placing pots, take into account that light-loving plants do not end up in the shade, and vice versa.
5. An excellent solution would be to decorate balconies with perennial plants and fast-growing plants of the same age.

The rules for caring for balcony plants are simple and do not differ from the process of growing house flowers. Consists of the following stages:

• watering - when additional moisture is needed;
• feeding - twice a month;
• loosening the soil in the container;
• removing dried leaves and flowers.

If your goal is a balcony that will be filled with flowers all spring and summer, choose appropriate plants. It is impossible to imagine landscaping a balcony without climbing plants. For them you will need to build supports - tie a regular rope along which the climbing plant will stretch upward.

It is better to plant vines in boxes that stand on the floor. They are placed closer to the wall so that some of the shoots grow along it. By using vertical gardening green walls are created that protect the balcony from dust and sun, significantly improving the local microclimate.

Use plants with unusual coloring and structure of leaves: speckled jasmine, petiolate helichrysum, Forster's plectranthus, enanthe, ivy-leaved glechoma. On the balconies of city apartments, hanging plants (ivy-leaved geranium, lobelia, ampelous fuchsia, verbena), whose flowing shoots form lush green caps, look good. If the space allows, it is quite possible to grow ornamental shrubs: serviceberry, forsythia, quince, apple trees, ornamental plums, palmate maple, rhododendron. Do not be afraid winter cold– they will overwinter well if you first insulate the container or tub.

Combination of colors when landscaping a balcony

The number of plants planted does not guarantee effective landscaping. Adopt a few simple rules, and you will be able to harmoniously combine plants that differ in flower shape and color. Remember: if the inflorescences have diametrically opposite colors, it is better not to plant them next to each other.

When landscaping a balcony, not only the plants, but also the objects around them must match each other in color: accessories, walls (against a gray wall, for example, white and red colors look great), furniture, flowerpots.

Regarding the color of the boxes, there are two options - either you focus on the plant that lives in it and choose neutral colors (white, green, light brown), or the container acts as a bright spot in the design of the balcony, and then you should not plant in it conspicuous large-flowered plants. Black containers are not suitable at all - they attract the sun's rays, as a result of which the soil overheats, and the plants can get sick because of this.

Fresh air is preferred by many indoor flowers, and in the summer you can easily take them out onto the balcony. Before doing this, think about their placement to get a harmonious ensemble with seasonal plants. When selecting plants that will be in the same container, take into account their care requirements so that they develop well and feel equally good.

Planting and caring for plants

Initially, drainage is poured onto the bottom of the container - expanded clay, crushed stone or small pebbles. This layer should be approximately 1 cm. Then soil is poured, but what kind of soil depends on the plants.

1. Some people like sandy soil, others like acidic soil, however, there are also universal soils in which the composition of microelements is balanced. This option is suitable for almost all plants, except perhaps the most capricious ones.
2. The soil must be well moistened before planting. If the container is suspended from the outside of the balcony, the top layer of soil after planting is covered with the same drainage. When the balcony landscaping is completed, this little trick will prevent the soil from being washed away when it rains.
3. Some people prefer to plant ready-made seedlings, while others are much more pleased to see green sprouts appear from seeds planted with their own hands. To do this, small depressions are made in the ground at a distance of 2.5-3 cm using a toothpick, into which the seeds are placed and sprinkled with soil on top.
4. Seedlings love melt water, and if possible, first put snow on the ground. Seeds are sown directly on it - the snow will melt and they will settle to the ground. Small seeds are simply distributed over the surface; there is no need to add drops later. To space them evenly, mix the seeds with a small amount of dry sand.
5. The soil is once again carefully moistened, for which you need to use a spray bottle so as not to wash away the soil. Then the container should be covered with glass or plastic wrap and placed in a warm place in the apartment. Open the drawer slightly for ventilation (otherwise mold may form) and moisten every day.
6. The time for emergence of seedlings varies individually, on average it is 10-14 days. As soon as all the sprouts have sprouted, the film can be removed. Take the seedlings out to the balcony and distribute them to permanent places after the end of the night frosts.
7. Planting greenery is just the beginning, because plants in containers require intensive care. For their health, they need daily watering; in hot weather, this should be done twice or even three times a day. Usually, flowers are watered in the morning, when the sun is not yet shining, and in the evening, before sunset. Pots must have holes for water drainage to prevent the root system from rotting.
8. Once or twice a week you can use various mineral fertilizers and nutritional mixtures, but you need to constantly loosen the soil. In addition, faded inflorescences, yellowed or dried leaves (sometimes entire stems) will need to be trimmed. Plants that will no longer bloom must be pulled out entirely and replaced with new ones.

Only with such care will the green decoration of your balcony remain fresh and attractive until the fall. Neighbors, acquaintances, relatives and friends will ask you about landscaping your balcony, and with our help you will know exactly what to answer.

The modern city dweller has such a busy pace of life that sometimes there is not even enough time to relax. And, if a trip to nature needs to be planned in advance, then there is a place in the apartment where you can relax at any moment - this is the balcony.

Landscaping loggias is very popular today. This is not only a great way to refresh your home and the facade of the house, but it is also possible to create a small cozy corner, a winter garden for relaxation.

How to choose the right flowers for your balcony so that they delight you with their beauty all year round - this is discussed in our article.

A balcony is a kind of bridge, a transitional space from living space to nature. Here you can hide from the bustle of the city and relax. And plants on the balcony will create a special atmosphere.

Winter garden on the loggia, photo

Main aspects of balcony design

Landscaping balconies and loggias only at first glance seems such a simple task. In practice, to create a harmonious design, many aspects must be taken into account. How to decorate a room with flowers correctly?

Before arranging a greenhouse on a balcony or organizing a winter garden, a number of factors should be taken into account:

• size of available area;
• location of the structure (sunny side, shadow);
• desired balcony design style;
• periods of flowering of different plants (if you want to have a flowering balcony all year round).

Advice: correct placement of plants in winter garden, the greenhouse will save you from difficulties in caring for them in the future.

Always cheer you up bright flowers on the balcony, photo

How to choose flowers for a loggia

To enjoy a blooming balcony for as long as possible, when selecting plants, the type of structure is taken into account: closed or open, insulated or cold.

Flowers for an open balcony

For a structure that does not have a platform, but is only fenced with a figured lattice, climbing and flowing bright ampelous plants for the balcony are suitable, which will beautifully entwine the lattice - petunias, as well as pelargoniums, climbing roses.

The French balcony is literally buried in flowers

A universal solution for any type of structure will be various annual plants. It is better to plant drought-resistant flowers on the sunny side (purslane, small-flowered chrysanthemums, verbena, marigolds, spurge, pansies. Various types of geraniums look beautiful.

The attention of passersby will certainly be attracted by the bright flowers on the loggia, photo

But for the northern balcony, cold-resistant plants such as viola, primrose, ivy, fuchsia and non-double tuberous begonia are suitable.

The ivy will create a pleasant shade, and the mignonette will emit a subtle, delicate scent

Owners of an open structure often have a problem: where to put the plants for the winter. The ideal solution is to grow bulbous and tuberous flowers, which can be stored in the pantry in winter.

When spring arrives, bulbous flowers are the first to bloom

Selecting plants for indoor spaces: winter garden

On a glazed balcony, the conditions for keeping flowers are better, which helps to extend their flowering period. Therefore, closed structures offer more options for DIY landscaping. If you have insulation, you can even arrange a real winter garden on the balcony. Options for its design are presented in our gallery.

The winter garden is a green area where a person can restore their strength, relieve stress, and enrich the body with oxygen. The green flowers filling it lift your spirits and improve your well-being. It’s not for nothing that a winter garden is also called a means of landscape therapy.

An example of arranging a relaxation area in a winter garden

Flowers in a winter garden require regular care, a certain level of light, temperature and humidity. Basic requirements for the balcony on which it is planned to install a winter garden:

• the structure must be insulated and equipped with additional lighting, good ventilation is needed;
• the room must be carefully insulated and sealed. When glazing, you should use double-glazed windows, no less than double-chamber ones;
• It is preferable to use natural materials (wood) for the interior decoration of the structure.

In addition, the location of the structure is important, temperature regime indoors, humidity level. These factors should be taken into account when planning a winter garden. Otherwise, the flowers will die.

An idea for arranging a winter garden on a balcony using cacti

Flowers for the winter garden are divided into several climatic categories: exotic plants tropics; Mexican desert vegetation; green rocky landscapes; orchard.

Thanks to citrus fruits, your balcony will always smell fresh

Attention: If you decide to grow fruit-bearing trees (orange, lemon) in the winter garden, remember that they grow to impressive sizes and require a lot of space.

A winter garden can only be installed in a heated room, but what about a closed but cold structure? There is a solution - use frost-resistant plants for the balcony. For winter landscaping of the balcony, flowers such as chlorophytum and zonal pelargonium (geranium) are suitable. Low temperatures are well tolerated by yucca, dwarf spruce and pine trees, juniper, and thuja.

Frost-resistant evergreen shrubs with fruits have a good decorative effect

How to organize a garden on a loggia that blooms all year round?

In order for the flowers on the balcony to delight you with their colors all year round, when choosing, you should take into account their flowering period. So in the spring hyacinths and tulips are the first to bloom, in the summer pansies and lilies delight with their blooms, and autumn is the time for chrysanthemums and asters.

Chrysanthemums will delight with their color until frost sets in

Principles of decorating a balcony with plants

Flowers for landscaping an open balcony or winter garden are selected based on the principle of combination and placement. The design must be designed harmoniously so that the plants fit into its design, but do not merge with the overall decor.

The first principle that should be followed when decorating a small balcony with flowers is the rational use of its area. Thus, a small structure will be decorated with plants in different containers placed along the railing.

Flowers on the balcony in boxes arranged in a checkerboard pattern will add volume to the structure

The spacious winter garden can be decorated with plants according to vertical principle: place climbing flowers along the wall and let their stems rise along stretched threads. You can also arrange several multi-tiered racks, on the shelves of which you can place flowers in pots.

Hops, ivy and clematis will create a beautiful hedge on the balcony

Containers for planting flowers

Flowers on the balcony should be combined into a coherent composition. For this, plants can be planted in different containers- boxes, pots.

Flowers in pots can be placed on special stands (wooden, forged). On an open structure flower arrangements will look beautiful in hanging baskets or flower pots.

Advice: flower boxes for the balcony should not be too heavy. They can be painted with bright colors or decorated using the decoupage technique.

An example of how you can decorate a small balcony with flowers

Plants in the winter garden can be diluted with figurines, candles, and the pots themselves can be decorated with beads, stones, and paintings. This will enliven the design of the room.

On a note: You should adhere to a single style when decorating a balcony, and flowers should be the main element in the interior.

Original flower arrangements will be the highlight of the winter garden

Bottom line

Balcony floriculture is a great way to grow plants in the city. It is pleasant and useful to spend time in the winter garden, have tea parties, and read books. This is an opportunity to create beauty not only for yourself, but for others.

Architects designing balconies different forms and structures, various materials are used for finishing, which are consistent with the architectural design of the entire building. But every owner can plant landscaping on the balcony according to his own taste and understanding; you just need to call on your imagination to create a mini-garden or a small green laboratory on the balcony, through which you can become familiar with the secrets of the plant world.

However, most owners of balconies, not knowing the techniques for landscaping these specific premises, the rules for caring for plants, find it difficult to choose an assortment and are not able to assess their capabilities in such an exciting task. The goal is to help with advice: how to select and grow plants for balconies at home, how to place them correctly, and achieve lush and long-lasting flowering.

Test your strength and have no doubt - you will get a spectacular and inexpensive balcony decoration that will be pleasant for you and those around you.

Green oasis - relaxation area

When planning landscaping for a balcony or loggia, you need to consider several important factors. If this is not done, then there may be problems with using a balcony or loggia as a utility room, slow development of plants, color incompatibility with the facade of the building, etc.

SQUARE

First of all, assess the size of your balcony. If it has a small area, you need to take into account the intensity of plant growth and arrange them so that it is convenient to move. Optimal solution- This is vertical gardening. Climbing, climbing, hanging plants, occupying a small area, create large mass greenery But in this case, the plants need support made of thick wire, a wooden or metal lattice. For vertical gardening, you can use a number of annual vines, which in a short period rise to a height of 3-5 m. Suitable, for example, are sweet peas, dolichos, decorative beans, kobea, morning glory, ivy.

BALCONY GLAZING

It matters whether the balcony is glazed or not. If it is open, choose low, ground cover or climbing plants for its landscaping that can easily withstand adverse weather conditions. If your balcony or loggia is glazed or even heated, this gives room for creativity and imagination. In this case, along with the use of vertical gardening, you can create compositions from indoor and ornamental garden plants, force early spring bulbous crops, and resort to a number of bold design solutions.

Many people take their indoor plants out onto the balcony in the summer to make them stronger. However, we must remember that natives of the tropics (various begonias, ferns) outdoors may feel bad. On the contrary, the inhabitants of the subtropics (aucubas, fat-sias, laurels, myrtles, citrus fruits), as a rule, respond well to a change in location. You just need to remember that you can’t suddenly change the lighting mode suddenly, otherwise burns will inevitably appear on the leaves. In this case, it is best to use a balcony on the north or west side of the building.

The illumination of the balcony directly affects the selection of the assortment of plants. A very important criterion is the orientation of the plants in relation to the sun. For balconies facing south and south-east, it is necessary to select plants that are resistant to direct sunlight and dry air (petunias, verbenas, marigolds, ever-flowering begonias, ivy, nasturtiums). For balconies or loggias facing north, it is more difficult to find the best options. Here you can use fuchsia, tuberous begonias, violas and climbing plants, the direction of growth of which is easy to shape.

BALCONY HEIGHT

It is important how high the apartment is located. On the upper floors of modern buildings, strong winds usually blow and there are drafts that dry out the soil and plants, breaking off shoots and leaves (especially in upright and hanging plants). Therefore, the range of plants for the 15th or 20th floors is much less extensive than for the 3-4-ro. Low-growing ever-flowering begonias, low varieties of ageratum and marigolds, gatsanias, and sedums are resistant to strong winds.

COLOR

When choosing plants, you should also take into account the color of the walls of the building. With the help of bright scarlet flowers you can liven up the most boring gray walls. If the house is red brick, it is better to use plants with white or pastel colors. Multi-colored, variegated, mixed plantings look elegant against a white background.

The simplest thing is to decorate a balcony with flowers of the same tone: red, pink (petunias, pelargoniums, tuberous begonias), orange (marigolds, gatsanias), lilac or purple (petunias, ageratums, lobelias). Two-color plantings are often used. As a rule, contrasting compositions that look good from a distance are recommended for balconies: red and white (pelargonium and alyssum), blue and yellow (ageratum and marigolds), purple and orange (heliotrope and gatsania), red and yellow (salvia and nasturtium).

HOW TO GROW FLOWERS ON THE BALCONY

It is necessary to think about where the flowers will be placed on the balcony. Will it be a hanging planter on a bracket, the outside of a window sill, a crossbar or railing, a stand?

or grate. When placing boxes and pallets outside the balcony, take care of their strength and metal fastenings to the fencing of a balcony or loggia.

It is advisable that the plant box be at least 20 cm wide. In this case, a two-row planting is quite feasible. In the back row (relative to the light) they are located relatively tall plants, in the front - lower. Several ampelous specimens can be placed along the edge or between them.

Selection of containers for ampels

Lush, elegant compositions raised above the ground in hanging flowerpots are a fashionable trend all over the world. floral decor. The first step in creating hanging arrangements is selecting containers for planting. They should be light enough and roomy. Plastic pots and boxes can be used as hanging containers. As a rule, a pot with a hole is inserted into a flowerpot or a tray is attached to the bottom of a perforated flowerpot.

Baskets consisting of a frame made of galvanized wire or durable look great. plastic mesh with large cells. Special inserts made of felt or coconut fiber are inserted into the frame, or the inside is lined with sphagnum moss with a layer of about 1.5 cm, and then with dense non-woven material (spunbond).

Advice

Only clean containers should be used for planting. If they have been used before, wash them thoroughly with disinfectants.

The right substrate

The soil in containers must be loose and structural, allow excess water to pass through well and at the same time retain the required amount of moisture and nutrients, since plants in hanging containers are forced to make do with a very small volume, and the lack of certain nutrients is not always compensated for by fertilizing In stores and garden centers you can purchase ready-made soil mixtures; soil based on vermicompost, for example, Terra Vita, is best suited.

If desired, you can prepare the soil mixture yourself. To do this, use turf soil or well-cultivated garden soil, humus and peat in a 1:1:1 ratio, as well as some slowly dissolving complex mineral fertilizers (1 tsp per 5 liters of mixture). If the mixture is not loose enough, you can add sand or perlite to it.

For a small volume of substrate, the problem of moisture capacity is relevant, which is solved by adding hydrogel granules to the soil (10 g per 5 liters of soil). This amazing product high technology is able to absorb water 50-100 times its own weight, retain it for a long time and slowly release it to the plant.

Effective substrate additives

Various additives help improve the properties of soil for potted and container plants.

Vermicompost.

This is compost obtained as a result of the processing of organic residues by red Californian worms. When using vermicompost, the biomass of plants increases and their decorative qualities. By adding 10-20% vermicompost to the substrate, there is no need to frequently fertilize plants with mineral fertilizers.

Clay.

Plastic sedimentary rock has long been used in substrates for potted crops, although it is not the most convenient material to use. It is very sticky, so it is difficult to distribute in the mixture. To solve this problem, dry clay is first crushed and then mixed with peat to prevent its particles from sticking together. Clay retains water well and enhances its absorption. This material has a slightly negative charge, so when mineral fertilizing is used, it absorbs positively charged ions of ammonium, potassium, calcium, and phosphorus. In this case, these soil elements are not washed away by water and are used by plants gradually, as needed.

Coir.

This exotic material significantly improves the capillary effect of the substrate and its ability to absorb water. The addition of coconut fibers has a positive effect on the plant grown in a container. Firstly, the difference in moisture between the upper and lower layers in the container is reduced, which has a beneficial effect on the development of roots, which are evenly distributed throughout the entire volume. Secondly, plant development is accelerated (due to close contact of the roots with the moist substrate).

Thirdly, due to the good capillary effect, the drying of the top layer is significantly slowed down. As a result, the stems are better fixed in the soil. Fourthly, it makes it easier to water various substrates, for example, overdried peat. Coconut fiber is especially recommended for use in growing conditions where wind and sun quickly dry out the soil.

When preparing moisture-permeable, light soil, sphagnum moss (about 10%) is added to the substrate as one of the components. It is also convenient when decorating hanging baskets. A layer of moss on the surface of the soil helps maintain its moisture, and periodically changing this layer removes harmful substances - salts, excess lime.

FEATURES OF WATERING FLOWERS ON THE BALCONY

One of the most important components of container care is watering.

Due to the small volume of soil, plants in containers and baskets have to be moistened much more often than in a flower bed. The amount of water needed and frequency depend on the size of the container, soil quality, weather and individual characteristics plants. Make it a rule: check the condition of the soil in the container every day (in hot weather - in the morning and evening) - it should be slightly moist. If the soil is dry, the plants need watering, and if it is waterlogged, be sure to check whether the drainage holes are clogged. Excess moisture is no less dangerous than its lack: the roots can rot, and then the plants will die.

It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture in containers not only in dry weather, but also in rainy weather - when planting tightly rainwater may roll off leaves without ending up in a container or basket.

When watering, you need to make sure that the water completely wets the soil lump, and a small excess of it pours out of the drainage hole into the pan. But water in the pan should not appear too quickly. If it leaks out of the container almost immediately, it may be a sign that the soil in the container is too dry and has pulled away from the sides. In this case, containers or pots must be placed almost completely in a container of water for 1-2 hours so that the soil is saturated with moisture; if this is not possible, water the plant several times in a row, but in small doses. If, on the contrary, water is absorbed too slowly and sits on the surface for a long time, it means that the soil has a poor structure and needs to be loosened more often to a considerable depth.

When watering plants during planting, it is useful to use a solution of root formation stimulants (for example, “Kornevin”).

On a note

Long stagnation of water leads to “acidification” of the soil, and harmful substances are formed that disrupt plant nutrition.

Fertilizing balcony plants

Whatever nutrient soil is used, its volume in the container is very limited and is quickly depleted. This is especially true for highly soluble forms of fertilizers, the nutrients from which are not only quickly consumed by plants, but are also washed out through drainage holes when watering. Therefore, plants grown on balconies and loggias require regular feeding.

They need to be started 1-1.5 weeks after planting and carried out once every 7-10 days with complex instant mineral fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers should be alternated with organomineral fertilizers produced in liquid form (Ideal, humic fertilizers, liquid organic). The dosage is usually indicated on the packaging and must be followed. Exceeding the specified doses can lead to negative consequences, including plant death. If a solution with fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones, gets on the leaves, then to avoid burns, it must be washed off with clean water.

On a note

Often for containers and baskets, long-acting fertilizers are used in the form of sticks that are placed in the soil. The validity period of such fertilizers is about two to three months.

Very effective for plants in containers and especially in hanging baskets foliar feeding, in which plant leaves are periodically (2-3 times a week) sprayed with a weak solution of complex fertilizers with microelements (half or even a third of the usual norm is taken). There is no need to wash this solution off the leaves.

TECHNIQUES FOR CREATING COMPOSITIONS FROM AMPELS: STEP BY STEP

When starting to create compositions in containers and balcony boxes, you need to take care of creating good drainage. For this purpose it is better to use medium-sized expanded clay. If the container has a drainage hole, then the drainage layer should be 3 cm, if there is no drainage hole - 5 cm. A layer of loose spun-bond is placed on the drainage so that soil does not get into the drainage holes of the container. Then pour the soil mixture in a layer of half to two-thirds of the remaining height.

Planting begins with the central, larger plants, adding soil as necessary and pressing it to the roots. Plant the plants so that the root ball is a few centimeters below the top edge of the container. Continue planting, moving from the center to the edges, then water the planting well and add soil so that its level is 1-3 cm below the top edge of the container, then water again.

When creating a hanging basket, install its frame in a large pot so that it does not tip over when working. Insert the liner into the frame or lay it out from the inside with a layer of moss of 1.5-2 cm, then line it with dense spunbond so that its upper edge is slightly lower than the edge of the basket. You can install a saucer at the bottom of the basket to retain and preserve moisture. Fill the basket up to half the height with soil mixture, slightly compacting it.

At the level of the soil surface, 3-5 holes are made in the wall of such a size that the roots of hanging plants can be placed in them, having first wrapped the plant lump in thick paper. Carefully thread the roots through the holes, laying them on the surface of the soil. The shoots should hang over the outside of the basket. Then the soil is added in layers, not reaching the edge of the basket 3-4 cm. Next, they begin to plant the remaining plants, placing upright growing ones in the center (for example, zonal pelargoniums), and on the edge - ampelous, beautifully flowering ones (ampelous pelargoniums, ivy, chlorophytums, petiolate tsmin and etc.).

Approximately 7 to 15 plants are planted in a basket. The basket is well watered and not exposed to the sun for several days so that the plants can take root and adapt to the new place.

Several types of plants can be used in hanging arrangements. In the very center, low, profusely and long-flowering annuals of a wide, preferably cushion-shaped shape are placed: compact petunias, dwarf varieties marigolds, zonal pelargonium, evergreen begonia, heliotrope, ageratum.

Closer to the edge of the pot, container, basket, as well as in the walls of the baskets, ampelous plants are planted: ivy-leaved pelargonium, bacopa, petunias, ampelous lobelia.

In the context of container decor, structural plants are used. They add completeness to the composition. The mosaic of leaves together with flowers creates a complex, beautiful ornamental game, giving the composition dynamism. And decorative deciduous plants with long hanging shoots are ideal here: ivy, chlorophytum, small-leaved and petiolate cumin, morning glory, sweet potato, dichondra.

The color scheme of planted compositions is a matter of taste. Some people like strict monochromatic compositions, others like colorful “bouquets” of flowers.

Plants planted in hanging baskets and containers require constant care and attention. To keep them looking fresh and blooming, it is necessary to remove faded flowers and yellowed leaves.

FLOWER EXTRACTION

Often container plants need pinching, removing the top part of the shoot with several leaves. Upright plants are pinched in order to reduce their growth and cause increased tillering, while hanging plants are pinched to stimulate the formation of lateral shoots and cause abundant flowering.

The fashion for container gardening not only continues unabated, but also shows us new products every year. At the same time, familiar plants reveal new sides to us. Petunias are especially good for decorating balconies and loggias.

VARIETIES OF PETUNIA

Petunia is presented in such a wide variety that, using this plant, you can create a diverse and attractive mobile garden.

Around 1800, this crop was assigned by taxonomists to the genus Petunia, the name of which comes from the word “petun”, meaning “tobacco” in the Guarani Indian language. The plant belongs to the nightshade family. Thanks to its amazing ability to cross-pollinate and adapt to different growing conditions, petunia quickly entered the culture; numerous hybrids appeared, differing in color and size of flowers:

grandiflora petunia with a flower diameter of about 8-12 cm. Since large-flowered petunias suffer greatly from adverse weather conditions, they are more suitable for landscaping glazed balconies;

petunia multiflora has an average flower diameter of about 7 cm, varieties of this series are more resistant to weather conditions and soils;

petunia milliflora with a flower diameter of about 4 cm, with lush and abundant flowering, has a compact bush habit, and is particularly decorative;

surfinia is one of a series of ampelous petunias originating in Japan, with characteristic long shoots that cascade from hanging baskets. It is ideal for large terraces and balconies. Needs especially frequent watering and regular feeding;

hybrids of the Pirouette Duo Fi series, Double Cascade F1 distinguished by large double flowers;

series of varieties Daddy F1 has a different range of petal colors (pink, lilac, white) with veins of a darker shade;

Superbissima and Frillitunia series They differ in flower size, more than 10 cm in diameter, have a fringed lace edge of the petals, and there are specimens with double petals.

GROWING PETUNIAS

Petunia grows well on various types soils, but develops and blooms much better on structural, loose, nutritious substrates. It responds well to the addition of humus or compost to the soil.

Petunia propagation by seeds at home begins in late March - early April. Boxes or planting containers with drainage holes are filled with a layer of expanded clay or sand (2 cm). Then the substrate is poured. It is leveled, compacted and moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate from a spray bottle. Sowing of seeds is carried out on the surface, without sprinkling them with soil.

If you choose granulated seeds, then they need to be slightly pressed into the ground and watered with a spray bottle until the protective shell of the granules is completely dissolved. To avoid stretching and loss of seedlings, it is recommended to sow petunias rarely. The container with the crops is covered with glass or transparent film.

At a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius, seedlings appear on the 7-8th day.

The film is removed and the temperature is maintained at 15-16 degrees. Seedlings are planted with the appearance of two true leaves. 7 days after picking, the seedlings can be shed with a solution of “Epin” or “Zircon” for better root formation and stress protection. Further care consists of fertilizing, loosening, and hardening off the plants.

Surfinia and some varieties of petunias are propagated more often by cuttings, since they do not set seeds in our climatic conditions. Rooting is carried out in mid-summer, and in the future these specimens serve as queen cells for spring cuttings. They are kept indoors. Surfinia cuttings begin at the end of February. Using a sharp blade, cut off young shoots 5-7 cm long, preferably with a heel, then remove the lower leaves,

You can root surfinia in cups of water with the addition of a few drops of potassium permanganate or in containers with a rooting substrate, providing them with warmth, watering, regular ventilation and shading. Young rooted plants are planted in pots with soil and grown.

In conditions big cities Flowering seedlings can be planted on balconies in late April - early May. It is better to choose a sunny place, without strong winds.

The soil for containers needs to be prepared nutritious, loose and at the same time moisture-absorbing. To enhance this quality, it is advisable to add perlite to the mixture. Slowly dissolving complex mineral fertilizers must be added to the soil for small-volume vessels.

Feeding begins a week after planting and continues until the end of flowering with an interval of 10-15 days. Foliar fertilizing with humic fertilizers gives good results.

On a note

It is convenient to water petunias in hanging baskets with a special watering can with a long spout.

Wilted flowers are hardly noticeable in large clumps, but are clearly visible in plant pots and hanging baskets. To improve decorativeness, such flowers need to be removed.

On a note

Regular pinching or pruning of petunia leads to the development of side shoots, better tillering and continuous lush flowering.

TRADITIONAL PLANTS FOR GREENING BALCONIES AND LOGGIAS

Certain traditions have developed in the design of auxiliary premises, which are balconies and loggias. This particularly applies to the use of certain plants.

Coleus hybrid

Coleus deserves wide use for the design and decoration of balconies and glazed loggias as an independent culture. This very popular plant from the Lamiaceae family came to us from the tropical regions of Asia and Africa. Among gardeners it is known as stinging nettle because the leaves and shoots are shaped very much like those of stinging nettle.

In cultivation, varieties of coleus are common with variegated leaves from cream and lemon yellow to dark red and almost black tones, having fringed and wavy edges (var. Black dragon).

Coleus flowers are inconspicuous, small, lilac-lilac, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences.

Tall coleus (30-50 cm) are grown mainly indoors (for example, the Coral Sunrise variety).

Low-growing hybrids of the Wizard series are distinguished by their small stature (15-25 cm) and have oval leaves of various colors (Golden Wizard - monochromatic leaves of yellow-light green color; Wizard jade– white leaves with a wide bright green border; Wizard evening dawn - bright red leaves with a narrow green border, etc.). They can be used for landscaping balconies.

Coleus require a lot of sunlight, because if there is a lack of it, the leaves lose color, become smaller, and the stem becomes elongated. Coleus are propagated both by seeds and vegetatively.

The best soil mixture for growing coleus is made up of equal proportions of leaf soil, peat, turf soil and sand. Seeds are sown in February-March. The crops are moistened, covered with glass and kept at a temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius. Coleus sprout unevenly on the 15-20th day. When the first pair of true leaves appears, they begin to pick the plants.

They are planted in small pots with a diameter of about 7 cm. Until complete rooting, the plants are kept warm with slight shading, and then in full sunlight so that the color of the leaves appears intensely. To make the plants compact, pinch off the top, which can be used as a cutting.

Mother plants coleus in winter period kept in a bright, dry room at a temperature of 12-15 degrees. When stored in a dimly lit place and at high temperatures, the shoots stretch and become unsuitable for cuttings. The root system of coleus in winter is very sensitive to waterlogging.

Coleus cuttings take place from February to May. The substrate for this can be river sand or a mixture of high-moor peat and sand (1:1). At a temperature of 18-20 degrees, rooting occurs in 8-12 days.

After the cuttings planted in the ground have taken root properly, its top must be pinched so that lateral shoots begin to grow from the axillary buds. Young plants are especially sensitive to excess moisture and may rot.

Only 1-1.5 months after planting does the stem at the base become woody, due to which the threat of rotting in case of overwatering of plants disappears. Despite the fact that coleus requires abundant watering in the summer, a “swamp” should not be allowed to form in the pot. The root ball should be slightly moistened. It is also unacceptable for the earthen clod to dry out, which leads to withering of the leaves and loss of the decorative appearance of the plant.

You can feed coleus potash fertilizers with a small amount of nitrogen or complex fertilizer for beautiful flowering plants. This gives impetus to the appearance of flower stalks, which must be removed when their length is no more than 1-1.5 cm, which contributes to the development of more intense coloring of the leaves.

You can form coleus into a bush by pinching the second or third pair of leaves on newly emerging shoots.

Pelargonium (Pelargonium): varieties

Pelargoniums are always in demand, because they are widely used in various forms of floral design. These are quite unpretentious plants, so almost any gardener can start growing pelargoniums, following simple rules.

In terms of splendor and duration of flowering, pelargonium can compete with the most exquisite garden plants, With early summer demonstrating their talents for rapid growth and flowering.

This popular inhabitant of residential premises and greenhouses of the geranium family came to us from the countries of South Africa. Pelargonium has long been known in culture as an essential oil and ornamental plant. It first appeared in the botanical gardens of England and Germany at the end of the 16th – beginning of the 17th centuries. Then scientists paid attention to it, and pelargonium became a favorite object of hybridization and selection.

Currently, there are hundreds of hybrid forms and varieties that have received universal recognition for their abundant and long-lasting flowering. In accordance with their origin, they are combined into several garden groups.

Most Popular pelargonium zonal(P. zonale), or garden. This is an erect subshrub up to 30 cm high. The leaves are round, on long petioles, light or deep green, often bicolor. The flowers are simple or double, very varied in color.

The group of zonal pelargonium includes variegated forms, combined into a subgroup. The pattern on the leaves can be in the form of a simple white border or a complex combination of red, green, yellow and cream colors. To go through the full development cycle before flowering, variegated forms need good lighting, but the attractive color of the leaves can be maintained even with slight shading. The clarity of the pattern depends on the feeding conditions. Variegated pelargonium plants receiving large doses of nitrogen fertilizers lose their brightness. Potassium, on the contrary, helps preserve color, but its overdose impairs growth.

Pelargonium ivy (P.peltatum), or thyroid, is a perennial evergreen plant with a cascading stem up to 60 cm long. These plants are no less popular than zonal pelargonium. The leaves are dense, rounded, with pointed lobes. The flowers are simple or double with a wide range of colors. This group of pelargoniums requires thorough pruning at the beginning of the growing season to enhance branching.

On the shelves of seed stores you can now find the following popular series of F1 pelargonium hybrids:

• Russian size– plants 35-40 cm high with huge bright flowers, collected in luxurious caps of inflorescences, reaching a diameter of 15 cm;
• Black velvet– professional series of pelargoniums 40 cm high with a characteristic intense leaf color – rich chocolate color creates a spectacular background for bright inflorescences;
• Star of the Moscow Region– compact (30-40 cm high), resistant to adverse conditions plants with excellent branching and large flowers;
• Summer waterfall– a plant with ivy-like leaves and flowing shoots up to 80 cm long, original foliage and many bright flowers;
• Multibloom- one of the earliest pelargoniums, blooming 10-12 weeks after sowing, with many flowers on one plant, 20-25 cm high.

Propagation of pelargonium by seeds

Until the middle of the 20th century, pelargoniums were propagated exclusively by cuttings, since decorative characteristics of varieties are not inherited during seed propagation. It became possible to propagate pelargoniums by seeds only with the advent of F1 hybrids, the seeds of which are obtained by crossing specially selected parental lines.

Pelargonium seeds are oval, rather large, dark brown.

1 g contains 180-250 pieces. The period from sowing to the appearance of the first flower is 10-18 weeks. The timing of sowing seeds can be different: late January - early February and from early March to May.

Sowing can be done in boxes or containers with fertile, loose substrate. The seeds are laid out on the surface of damp soil, spilled with a solution of fungicidal preparations (for example, Fitosporin-M), sprinkled on top with a layer of no more than 0.5 cm. To germinate, the seeds need light, moisture and a soil temperature of 21-23 degrees. To maintain constant humidity, containers with crops should be covered with glass or film. Shoots appear in 5-12 days. After unfolding the cotyledons, the glass is removed, the soil is kept moderately moist, and the temperature is reduced to 18-20 degrees.

In the phase of one or two true leaves, picking begins. Plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm with fertile soil mixture. Caring for seedlings involves careful watering, ventilation and feeding. The first feeding is carried out two weeks after picking, the subsequent ones at intervals of 10-15 days. To obtain compact plants, seedlings that have reached 8-10 cm are pinched above the third or fourth leaf.

Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings

Cuttings of pelargoniums begin in March. To do this, cut off the upper part of the shoot 10-12 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Since pelargoniums have a stem that can accumulate water, the cuttings must be dried for 3-4 hours, then they are planted in a bowl or pot with light sandy soil or into clean river sand. The container is placed in a bright place, but protected from direct sunlight. Pelargonium cuttings are not covered with polyethylene; they are lightly sprayed with water and carefully watered as the soil dries. When roots 4-5 cm long have formed (usually after 4-6 weeks), the cuttings are planted in 8-10 cm pots and after a few days placed in a sunny place.

Pelargonium care

The main formula for success when growing pelargonium is proper agrotechnical care. Pelargoniums prefer light humus soil with at least a third of sand added. It is advisable to add 1 tbsp to the soil mixture for each liter of it. l. dolomite flour. When planting, good drainage is necessary, since pelargoniums are sensitive to stagnant water.

A prerequisite for good growth and flowering of pelargoniums is an abundance of light and warmth. In the fresh air, in direct sunlight, plants feel much better than behind glass.

Pelargoniums require regular feeding with organic and complex mineral fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content. At the very beginning of the season, it is preferable to fertilize with humic fertilizer to give impetus to growth. From May to August, plants are responsive to fertilizing with calcium nitrate: 2 g per 1 liter of water. From October, all feeding is stopped and watering is reduced, because at this time the plant enters the dormant stage.

The big problem is keeping pelargoniums in an apartment during the winter. Central heating and lack of light are detrimental to these plants. Therefore, pelargoniums should winter in a bright room at a temperature of 8-12 degrees. Such conditions guarantee flowering next year.

Pelargoniums are sensitive to root rot, which can be avoided with proper watering. In winter, plants are watered when the soil in the pots becomes dry to the touch (but not too dry). So much water is required that it, having wetted the entire earthen lump, comes out through the drainage hole into the pan, from where it is then removed.

Ivy-leaved pelargoniums are especially sensitive to waterlogging. On the inside of the leaf they may develop swelling - water pads, which subsequently dry out. This is not dangerous for the plant, but the leaves lose their decorative effect.

Pelargonium varieties with a compact habit are good for growing in containers and hanging pots. When choosing partners for pelargoniums, you need to take into account the various plant requirements for location and fertilizers. Harmonious combinations of pelargonium with variegated plants (variegated budra, plectranthus), and silver-gray ones (petiolate tsmin, cineraria) look aristocratic. Often, vigorous, ampelous and standard forms of plants are suitable as partners for pelargoniums.

Fuchsia

This is the classic indoor flower of our great-grandmothers. However, in recent years, it has again won the hearts of many gardeners as an ideal plant for decorating balconies, loggias and terraces, as well as as a tub culture. There are currently great amount fuchsia varieties. They are so diverse that it seems impossible to come up with new ones. Nevertheless, breeders continue to delight us with original and exquisite cultivars.

Fuchsia is a beautifully flowering perennial plant from the wasp family. Its flowers come in simple, double and semi-double, and come in a variety of colors. Fuchsia loves good lighting without direct sunlight and careful watering. The plant requires pinching for better formation of a bush or ampel. The more branches, the more abundantly the fuchsia will bloom.

According to their growth characteristics, all varieties of fuchsia are divided into bush, ampelous and semi-ampelic. In an ampelous plant, the width of the habit is greater than the height. But there are fuchsias that grow only in the form of a bush; their stems, even under maximum load, still grow upward. It is better to form standard trees for tubs from plants of such varieties. Fuchsia ampels can be used for various purposes: hanging and wall-mounted in flowerpots, in flowerpots on a high leg, hanging balls, in balcony boxes, etc.

To obtain a fuchsia ampel, you must follow several rules:

• use only ampel and semi-ampel varieties;
• plant several cuttings evenly in one container;
• pinch the cutting immediately after the second or third internode;
• pinch shoots of subsequent orders above the 2-3rd internode until the desired shape and thickness are achieved.

Fuchsias are propagated most often by apical or stem cuttings, less often by seeds. Cuttings with 3-5 pairs of leaves are cut in February-March or August-September. The length of the cutting is 5-7 cm. The rooting period lasts up to 20 days at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Rooted cuttings are planted in pots with a diameter of 7 cm, filled with a soil mixture: turf, leaf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. When the root ball completely occupies the volume of the cup, the cutting can be transplanted into a balcony box or flowerpot bigger size(at least 20 cm in diameter).

For growing fuchsia in containers, a soil mixture of four parts turf and leaf soil, two parts humus and one part sand is suitable. Fuchsias need regular watering and fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizer with a high content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Overwatering fuchsias is dangerous. Overwatering leads to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. Fuchsias also do not like overheating of the earthen clod; therefore, it is important that the pots are light, preferably white.

Ampelous begonia

Amateur flower growers are well aware of tuberous begonia - a low plant with succulent stems and large simple or double bright flowers. Less known is the ampelous begonia with cascading shoots, small leaves and clusters of simple or double flowers on long stalks. It was obtained as a result of crossing various types and varieties of small-flowered tuberous begonias. This culture has long and abundant flowering and looks great in a variety of vases and hanging flower pots.

It is propagated by seeds, cuttings and tubers. Propagation of begonias by seeds has a number of features, so get good seedlings It's very difficult at home. A scattering of microscopic seeds can discourage dealing with begonia once and for all. So we’ll leave this fate to specialist agronomists who have the opportunity to create the necessary conditions for growing seedlings.

But you can try to propagate begonia from cuttings. To do this, the mother tubers are placed in boxes and sprinkled with a 1 cm layer of soil. After about a month, the shoots can be cut off. For rooting, cuttings are planted in boxes 5 cm apart, maintaining a temperature of 20-22 degrees, and soil and air humidity should be 80-90%. When roots appear, the cuttings are transplanted into pots.

Begonias are brought to the balcony at the end of May, when warm weather sets in, but before that they need to be hardened (reduce watering and gradually get used to the sun).

Ampelous begonias are also propagated by dividing the tuber. It is cut so that each part has a germinating bud. The cuttings are placed tightly together in boxes on a layer of sifted peat, which is used to fill the gaps and slightly cover the base of the bud. The sections must first be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried. Tubers in young begonias are formed under short day conditions (9-10 hours), when the growth of the aboveground part slows down.

For us this happens in the fall, in September-October. To speed up the development of tubers, the flowers are removed in mid-September. The tubers are dug up before frost along with a lump of earth and dried. Then they are placed in boxes, sprinkled with dry peat or sand and stored at a temperature of 8-10 degrees Celsius. When the tubers begin to sprout, they are planted in pots, the air temperature is raised to 20 degrees and watering begins.

Heliotrope peruvianum

Once a very popular ornamental perennial plant, it was our grandmothers' favorite flower. Then forgotten for many years, heliotrope has become popular again today. Once you have “tamed” heliotrope, you will care for and cherish it. Its flowers are lilac, bright purple, with a subtle vanilla aroma.

Leaves have a dark tint and are wrinkled. The bushes are compact, 40-50 cm high. Flowering - from July to autumn frosts. The plant is light- and heat-loving and grows well in light, well-drained, nutrient-rich soils.

Propagated by seeds, which are sown in pots in early March. If there are mother plants that are kept in cool rooms during the winter, heliotrope can be taken well from cuttings. Heliotrope looks most impressive next to yellow and lemon marigolds, pink and white petunias, and pink geraniums.

Lobelia erinus

A highly branching, densely leafy plant with a compact or spreading form, 10-30 cm high. The flowers are small, in all shades of blue (less often white and two-colored). Blooms profusely from July to October. Lobelia is a heat- and light-loving plant. Prefers loose loamy or sandy loam soils and is quite moisture-loving. Propagated by seeds - seedlings. Sowing in March. Hanging varieties are used for vases, pots, and the first outer row in balcony boxes. Looks better up close.

ANNUALS AND TWO-YEARS FOR GREENING BALCONIES AND LOGGIAS

Alyssum hybrid.

Annual plant. The bush is spreading or compact, 8-20 cm high, with branching stems. The flowers are fragrant, white or light purple, collected in racemes. Requires a sunny location. Alyssum is undemanding to soil, tolerates spring and autumn frosts well, and is propagated by seeds - by sowing in a permanent place followed by thinning. Tolerates haircuts well.

Ageratum mexicanis.

Annual plant. The leaves are matte green. The flowers are blue, lilac-blue, white, collected in small inflorescences-baskets, which, in turn, are formed into corymbose inflorescences. A warm and light-loving plant, but tolerates light shading.

It blooms from June to October, provided that faded inflorescences are removed. Prefers well-drained, light, fertile soils. Propagated by seeds. Low varieties of ageratum are suitable for landscaping balconies of multi-storey buildings (from the 10th floor and above). Goes well with red-flowering varieties of geranium and fuchsia.

Marigolds rejected.

An annual, highly branched plant 15-40 cm high. Inflorescences are baskets 4-6 cm in diameter, simple, semi-double or double. Flowering is long - from July to October.

Prefers open sunny places. Requires nutritious, well-moistened soil. Propagated by seeds - by seedlings in April or by sowing in a permanent place, followed by thinning to a distance of 10-15 cm between plants. Low-growing (25-40 cm) and very low (15-20 cm) varieties are suitable for planting on balconies and loggias of high-rise buildings.

Verbena hybrid.

Combines garden forms and varieties of hybrid origin with a wide variety of colors - from white to red.

Despite the fact that hybrid verbena is a perennial plant, in many regions with cold climates it is cultivated as an annual plant. Blooms from late June until frost. Verbena is a drought-resistant, light- and heat-loving plant, undemanding to the soil. Refers to slowly growing plants. Three months pass from sowing to flowering. Propagated by seeds - seedlings, although propagation by cuttings is possible. Does not tolerate waterlogging and stagnation of water. The most decorative are large-flowered, low-growing varieties and ampel forms. Suitable for landscaping balconies with southern orientation.

Viola.

This biennial (whose second name is pansy) is widely used for decorating balconies. And the capabilities of this plant are constantly expanding. Thus, an amazing new product began to appear on the markets - a series of semi-ampelous large-flowered viola Vitrocca - Vanderfall F1. Large flowers change color depending on age, creating an even more attractive appearance. The plants are vigorous and suitable for large containers and hanging pots. To get the best decorative look Cool cultivation (temperature for mature plants -16 degrees) and the use of viola for spring gardening are recommended. At the beginning, the plants grow upward and have a rather unpresentable appearance, but after the appearance of approximately the 6-7th flower, intensive growth of lateral branches begins, as a result of which an excellent plant appears in the flowerpot, completely covered with flowers.

Bindweed, or convolvulus tricolor.

Annual herbaceous plant with pubescent branched, creeping shoots. Flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm on long peduncles are colored with a sequential transition from the periphery to the center in blue, white and yellow. At night and in cloudy weather, the flowers close. Bindweed is relatively cold-resistant and drought-resistant. Grows well in sunny places, on breathable soil, rich in lime and moderately fertilized. Propagated by seeds. You can use the seedling method of growing indoors. Used for vertical gardening.

Sweet pea.

This is a herbaceous climbing annual with delicate leaves and fragile tendrils clinging to support. Depending on the type of branching, there are many- and few-stem forms. The colors of the flowers are varied (pure white, dark red, dark purple). The flowers are fragrant, moth-shaped. Grows well in sunny, wind-protected locations, in well-drained soils rich in organic matter and potassium.

Sweet peas are propagated by seeds, which are pre-soaked for a day in warm water. Sown in the soil of a balcony box. It can be grown through seedlings, but it must be planted in a permanent place without disturbing the earthen ball. The seedlings are not afraid of light frosts. Early planting promotes the formation of a strong root system, which provides abundant long flowering. Sweet pea is one of the favorite climbing plants for vertical gardening on balconies, terraces and other architectural forms.

Dolichos.

An annual herbaceous climbing plant. The shoots of dolichos reach a height of 4 m. The leaves are colored red-violet. The flowers are irregular, rather large, light and dark purple, collected in racemose inflorescences. Flowering period is from mid-summer to frost. Prefers loose, nutritious, moist soils and good lighting. It is propagated by sowing beans in spring in a permanent place or by seedlings - in pots. Dolichos is used in all types of vertical gardening, where its colored foliage and especially bright ripe fruits create an unusual decorative effect.

Nasturtium.

An annual plant with succulent branching stems, shield-shaped or palmate leaves on long petioles. In low-growing forms, a mass of lateral leaves grows from the lower part of the stem at an acute upward angle, forming a dense, compact plant. Flowers are yellow, orange, salmon, red, dark cherry in color. Blooms from July to October.

Nasturtium is a heat- and light-loving plant. Can grow in partial shade, but blooms profusely only in full sun. Prefers loamy, drained, sufficiently fertilized (especially phosphorus) soils. Propagated by seeds - by sowing to a permanent place in the second ten days of May.

You can also use the seedling method. At the beginning of April, the seeds are sown in 2-3 peat pots, and at the end of May the seedlings are planted in open ground. For climbing (climbing) varieties, support is necessary, since the shoots are very fragile and easily break off. Nasturtium flowers are bright and look good from a distance, so they do not require accompanying crops.

NEW IN THE FLOWER INDUSTRY

Since the end of the last century, the use of hanging plants in containers has become an iconic element of European garden design. Thanks to this, interest in beautifully and abundantly flowering ampels has increased. In recent years, the range of flower crops for vertical gardening has expanded significantly. The domestic market is literally overwhelmed by the flow of new products of foreign selection.

In addition to traditional pelargoniums, fuchsias, and petunias, little-known plants have become popular - calibrachoa, diascia, bacopa, bidens, dichondra and other amazingly beautiful crops.

Bacopa cordate

This is an unfamiliar plant, but popular in Europe, originally from South America, whose second name is sutera. It is distinguished by long flowering, drooping shoots strewn with small snow-white or lilac flowers, which do not lose their decorative effect even during prolonged rains. Since the plant independently sheds faded flowers, it always has a neat, well-groomed appearance.

Bacopa grows well in sunny places and prefers slightly acidic soils. Tolerates high summer temperatures against a background of air and soil moisture deficiency. In addition, bacopa is resistant to low temperatures, withstanding frosts down to 3-5 degrees. Propagates well by seeds and green cuttings.

In winter, pots with plants are kept in a bright, cool, non-freezing room; if this is not possible, you can root the cuttings by the end of summer and store them on the windowsill.

Bacopa can be used as a companion plant in containers or as a background for brighter flowers.

Diascia

This genus of the Norichaceae family includes annual and perennial plants (usually cultivated as annuals). Graceful, branched shoots with small leaves and small but numerous flowers of delicate fawn colors make this plant extremely attractive for decorating balconies. Low, from 25 to 40 cm, diascia is good in containers, flowerpots, hanging baskets.

Diascia is unpretentious to grow. Seeds germinate at a temperature of 16-18 degrees, and for successful growth and development it is better to even lower the temperature to 12-16 degrees, otherwise the seedlings will stretch out. From sowing to flowering it takes 8-9 weeks. To obtain the most decorative effect, seedlings must be planted according to a 15x15 cm pattern.

Calibrachoa

Lately you can see more and more often beautiful plant with small graceful flowers. The genus Calibrachoa was described back in 1825 by the Mexican botanist Antonio de la Calibrachoa, after whom it was named. Many people confuse calibrachoa with petunia. They do have an external resemblance, but the stem of calibrachoa, unlike petunia, becomes woody and branches, and long ampelous shoots hang down from the flowerpot.

But it should be noted that calibrachoas grown in the middle climate zone cannot compete with the gorgeous two-meter cascades growing in France or Holland, but here they can bring a lot of joy to true flower lovers.

The most popular series of hoa calibers is Million Bells (“million bells”). Japanese breeders have developed the Super Bells series, which is resistant to black rot. All known calibrachoa varieties are vegetatively propagated hybrids of complex origin, therefore they are most often propagated by cuttings.

All green parts of the plant are covered with sparse short and stiff hairs. The leaves are much smaller than those of petunias, as are the flowers - their diameter is about 2-3 cm, and the edges of the petals are smooth. By nature, Calibrachoa flowers are purple, but recently varieties with red, white, pink, yellow and even brown shades have been developed. The flowers have a darker center and the petals may be marked with a dark midrib.

In August from flowering bush cut cuttings about 5-7 cm long with several internodes. Flowers, buds and lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, it is planted in a peat substrate, having first dusted the cut with Kornevin. For rooting they create optimal conditions(heat and humidity), the container with cuttings can be placed in a greenhouse, be sure to cover it with film. If rooting conditions are met, root formation occurs within 2-3 weeks.

Rooted cuttings are transplanted one at a time into pots filled with peat soil for seedlings. Pots need good drainage to ensure that excess moisture drains away. Once every two weeks, the cuttings can be watered with a solution of a growth stimulator for better root formation. In winter, they must be stored in a bright, cool room at a temperature of 14 degrees.

From mid-November, it is advisable to illuminate with fluorescent lamps. Water the cuttings as the soil dries and feed them with complex fertilizers once a month. At the beginning of February, mixtures containing nitrogen are introduced and the additional lighting time is increased.

In April, the plant can be taken out to a warm, sunny balcony, and when the new shoots reach a length of 10-12 cm, they need to be cut short for better branching.

If you don’t want or can’t tinker with cuttings, buy calabrachoa in a retail chain. Transplant them into a hanging basket (one plant per 5 liter pot) with light peat soil. Pots with calibrachoa should be placed in a sunny place, protected from winds and drafts. Watering is carried out carefully. In this case, you can add a little to the water citric acid, since the plant is responsive to an acidic environment.

Once a week, the plant is fed with complex fertilizer for garden flowers. Calibrachoa is very responsive to iron deficiency in the soil. When chlorotic foci appear, apply 3-4 times at intervals of several days with complex chelate microfertilizer “Cytovit”, which is a universal stimulator of photosynthesis and protects the plant from chlorosis, accelerating metabolic processes.

Bidens

Recently, this fast-growing ampelous plant, also called a series of ferulifolia, has gained great popularity. It forms a lush bush 40-60 cm high. Thanks to its numerous spreading shoots, the plant looks like a ball. The stems are strong, branching from the base of the bush. The leaves are dark green, strongly dissected. The inflorescences are numerous bright yellow baskets with a diameter of about 3.5 cm. The plant is cold-resistant and drought-resistant. Prefers a sunny location, but also grows well in partial shade.

Grown by seedlings and sowing in a permanent place in early spring, but in the second case flowering occurs a month later (July). For abundant flowering Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is required at intervals of 10-14 days. The shoots can be shortened if desired. Ideal for containers, balcony boxes, hanging baskets.

What flowers to plant on the balcony: video

PLANTS FOR THE “BACKGROUND”

An important and effective technique for vertical gardening is the combination of several types of plants with different leaf shapes, contrasting or, conversely, similar colors. An excellent complement to brightly flowering plants will be decorative foliage plants - dichondra, petiolate cinnamon with silvery leaves or morning glory with purple and golden leaves.

Beautiful decorative foliage plant silver dichondra (creeping) has numerous thin lashes spreading along the surface of the soil or hanging down 1.5 m or more. The shoots are covered with rounded leaves 0.5-1 cm in size. The flowers are located in the leaf axils, very inconspicuous and almost invisible. Propagated by seeds and cuttings. Easily tolerates adverse weather conditions.

Tsmin petiolate- a herbaceous light-loving and heat-resistant plant with grayish-silver leaves native to South Africa. The hairs that cover cumin leaves with thick felt reflect the sun's rays well and reduce evaporation, helping the plant survive in extreme heat. Prefers loose soil containing humus and coarse sand. During the period of intensive growth, it is responsive to good watering and fertilizing with a solution of complete complex fertilizer.

Cmin is propagated by apical and stem cuttings, rooting in a mixture of peat and sand (1:1) at a temperature of 23-25 ​​degrees. Mother plants are kept in a bright room at a temperature of 11-15 degrees, reducing watering to a minimum. Ideal for landscaping balconies as a background plant for colorful flowering annuals. Pruning shoots promotes intensive tillering.

Morning glory sweet potato– tropical, highly decorative and fast-growing liana. It has purple or golden-green, whole or deeply cut, arrow-shaped leaves at the base on long petioles, alternately located on strong, slightly twisted stems. The corolla of the morning glory flower is pale pink, formed by fused petals with a pentagonal bend - a “gramophone”. The culture propagates well from cuttings. Cultivated as an annual. Ideal for creating compositions in flower pots and balcony boxes.

"BALCONY THERAPY"

Try to arrange a small garden of spicy and aromatic herbs on your balcony, which can delight you with greenery for a long time. Herbs sown in pots no later than May should be placed on Fresh air. But this should not be done suddenly. Plants placed on a balcony or loggia should gradually get used to the wind and sun. First, the pots should be in partial shade for some time, and only then, step by step, should they be moved into the sun.

It is useful to always have fresh basil and sage, thyme and oregano, rosemary and mint on hand. Many of these plants can be grown as balcony crops.

But a spicy-aromatic garden should not only be beneficial, but also pleasing to the eye. For such purposes, for example, icterina sage with its bright green leaves covered with yellowish spots is perfect. In general, sage varieties are so diverse and interesting in their colors that they can be collected into a small collection on the balcony.

In addition to Salvia icterina, there is also a very beautiful variety called “tricolor”, the leaves of which are covered with red and green spots, and along their edges there is a white edging. Unfortunately, unlike ordinary sage, it is not frost-hardy enough. For those who are not at all interested in delicacies, choose sage berggarten. It has wide green leaves, is unpretentious and very winter-hardy.

Thymes offer an equally rich palette. Anyone who wants to grow, for example, lemon thyme on their balcony along with ordinary thymes, can choose what they like best: bushes with white or yellow-green leaves. Mountain savory is very unpretentious in balcony culture. If you place this plant in a well-warmed sunny place, it will be completely covered with delicate white and blue flowers.

On a note

Herbs grown on glazed loggias, do not have the same aroma as their counterparts growing in natural conditions. This is due to the fact that balcony glass almost does not transmit ultraviolet rays, which are important for the formation of aromatic substances.

All of these herbs need full sun. Sage evaporates a huge amount of water, so it needs to be watered much more often than plants with small leaves.

A real “water bread” is mint, which, moreover, loves partial shade. Planted in pots, its bushes cannot “run around” and spread everywhere, as happens freely in the garden. If you place a pot of lemon balm in the reading corner on the balcony, you can enjoy a pleasant aroma on hot days. But there is one inconvenience when growing mint in pots: every spring the plant must be divided and replanted.

Feels great in the partial shade of the balcony and lovage. If you plant it in a large enough pot, it will delight you with its vibrant beauty for a long time.

On a note

Basil, sage and rosemary prefer poor soils. If water stagnates in pots, this can cause limp foliage.

For growing herbs, it is best to prepare your own substrate from ordinary garden soil with the addition of a quarter of coarse sand. Mint, lemon balm, and basil need to be fed with liquid fertilizers from time to time, but the dosage should be half as much as indicated on the package.

Advice

Even frost-resistant plants can freeze if left in tubs or pots during the winter. The lack of heat generated by the soil leads to the fact that the cold “attacks” the poorly protected root system from all sides. Therefore, it is better, if possible, to bury the pots in the ground for the winter or place them in a shelter, protected, first of all, from the cold north wind. If the pots spend the winter on the balcony, then they must be wrapped in burlap or felt and placed on polystyrene foam.

VEGETABLE GROWING IN CONTAINERS ON THE BALCONY

A few square meters on a balcony or terrace are enough to start organic vegetable growing.

It goes without saying that vegetable plants growing in tubs will not produce as abundant a harvest as those growing freely in the garden. But how convenient it is to always have a dozen tomatoes or crispy young cucumbers on hand!

However, they are cultivated not only for food: many vegetable crops also look beautiful - either because of the shape or bright color of the leaves, such as chard, or because of their decorative fruits. In addition, among traditional container plants there are some species whose “appearance” does not in any way indicate that they belong to vegetable crops, for example, sweet potato (Ipomoea sweet potato). The tubers of a plant grown in a container, although smaller than those grown in open ground, are still quite suitable for use as food.

Tomatoes grow best in a sunny, wind-protected location. Their unpresentable lower leaves can be covered with herbs.

The mustachioed garden strawberry of the Atillo variety, thanks to its drooping shoots, is perfect for planting in hanging baskets and will look advantageous next to the horned violet and compact oregano.

For growing in containers, in addition to varieties of balcony tomatoes and cucumbers, low-growing varieties of eggplants with fruits weighing about 60 g, sweet pepper varieties Window Miracle F1 and Confetti, chili peppers are suitable - for true connoisseurs of halftones and exquisite color nuances, the Lilac Tiger Cub variety, which has an openwork bush with variegated leaves, the color of which harmoniously combines white, green and lilac colors, various salads and onions are suitable for growing on the balcony.

Peat-free biosoil mixed with sifted mature compost is suitable as a substrate for vegetable plants: you need to take one part of it to two parts of the substrate.

Unlike vegetable gardening, when growing crops in containers, you should use soil, fertilizers and protection products without chemical additives.

Plants in tubs must be watered regularly, and not only when the fruits are ripening. It is advisable to do this early in the morning, and on hot days, also in the evening. The material from which the containers are made also affects water consumption: soil dries out faster in clay pots than in plastic or metal ones, this is due to the fact that in ceramic containers moisture can evaporate through the porous walls.

Improvised vegetable beds on the balcony you can add bright colors from flowering summer flowers (alissum, lobelia, marigolds, nasturtiums, calendula, etc.). A collection of vegetable, flowering plants and herbs in a beautiful design is a corner for true gourmets.

GOLDEN AUTUMN ON THE BALCONY

For many owners of balconies, some of the flowers growing on them still look good by the end of August - September, but some, unfortunately, die, unable to bear the hot rays of the bright sun. However, lovers of gardens on the balcony often want to please themselves for some time with the sight of some luxurious plant planted in a tub or pot, or even change the decoration of the autumn balcony.

There is a wide choice beautiful blooming autumn potted plants juicy colors, which can be purchased already blooming. For many of them, the first frosts are not dangerous, and such plants will decorate your balcony until the beginning of November, and perhaps longer.

For example, suitable for this purpose Erica crucifolia, also known as marsh heather. A branched shrub 15-20 cm high will shower the balcony with scarlet or white “splashes” until December.

Ideal for autumn decoration of a balcony and decorative cabbage, which amazes with the variety of colors and leaf shapes - from wavy to curly. Sometimes the whole palette autumn colors ornamental cabbage is embodied in one plant. And the lower the thermometer, the more saturated the color its leaves acquire.

Potted chrysanthemums– the brightest and most elegant autumn flowers. On a balcony or terrace, these beauties are simply irreplaceable; they give us the last heady festival of flowers, striking us with a variety of shapes and colors.

In tub culture, ordinary chrysanthemums can survive winter only in areas with a mild climate, and even then with appropriate protective measures. But you can’t guess by their appearance whether these plants are winter-hardy or not? Both groups are similar in color spectrum, so when purchasing, pay attention to the description of the variety or get information from a garden center consultant. But the nature of their flowering is different: if chrysanthemums grown as annuals bloom together, then winter-hardy ones open their buds gradually and therefore bloom longer. In addition, they are somewhat more powerful. The flowers themselves in representatives of both groups can withstand minus temperature about 1-2 degrees. But if there is a threat of frost, it is better to cover the flowers with spunbond.

Chrysanthemums need to be watered so that the ground is not too dry and not too wet.

It is best to plant winter-hardy garden chrysanthemums in containers in the spring. Then these specimens will have enough time to take root. You can plant them in the fall if the ground is not frozen yet. Faded shoots are cut off, and the bush with the container is buried in the ground and well covered with spruce branches.

WELCOME TO SPRING

If you don’t want to wait for the time when you can enjoy the splendor of the colors of spring flowers, you can start forcing bulbs. A pot of blooming crocuses, daffodils, and tulips will decorate the interior of a balcony or loggia and improve your mood even in the most cloudy and uncomfortable time of year. But you need to take care of this in the fall.

IN balcony boxes Tulip and daffodil bulbs are planted in October. Drainage is made at the bottom of the containers, the substrate is poured to the depth level at which the bulbs will be planted. They prefer slightly alkaline or neutral soil made from leafy soil, garden soil, humus soil and sand (1:1:1:1). Place the bulbs at a distance of 3-5 cm from each other, add soil to the top of the box and carefully water it. For the winter, containers with bulbs are transferred either to a cool basement with a temperature of 4-5 degrees Celsius, or left on the balcony, covering the boxes.

The rooting period lasts 3-4 months for tulips and daffodils, and 2-3 months for hyacinths. Bulbs prepared for forcing, i.e., which have been rooted at a low temperature, are placed in a bright place with a temperature of 18-20 degrees Celsius for tulips, 10-15 for daffodils and 23-25 ​​for hyacinths. As soon as flower stalks appear, the plant is moved to a cool place. Water the bulbs as the soil dries, adding liquid fertilizer to the water once a week.

You can plant the bulbs in layers in large pots or boxes. For example, the first (bottom) layer can be planted with tulips that bloom in May. Add a little soil between and on top of the bulbs and lay out the daffodils that bloom in April, also covering them with a layer of soil. For flowering in March, you can plant crocuses in the third layer. Such a pot can bloom for several months.

As the plants fade, the flower stalks are cut to half their height, leaving the leaves until they turn yellow. After this, the bulbs need to be removed from the pot, dried and stored until autumn planting, as with a regular soil crop.

It should be borne in mind that spring primroses need a bright, but not too sunny place.

You can plant low viola, muscari, daisies, and primroses in boxes with tulips.

DISEASES AND PESTS OF BALCONY PLANTS

Sudden changes in temperature, lack of light, excess light insufficient watering, unbalanced nutrition can contribute to the emergence and spread of diseases and pests on plants growing on balconies, loggias and terraces.

Gray mold, or botrytis, affects flowers, leaves, stems and fruits, causing tissue decomposition, forming a gray fluffy coating. Favorable factors for the development of the disease can be waterlogging of the soil, lack of ventilation, and lack of sun.

When foci of gray rot appear, it is necessary to remove diseased or dead parts of plants and maintain as much low humidity, spray with fungicides.

Root rot characterized by the destruction of plant tissue cells with their transformation into a rotting mass. The plant withers and dries out. Low air temperatures and waterlogging of the substrate can provoke the appearance of root rot.

As a preventive measure, ensure good drainage. In case of disease, treat with fungicides.

Many fungal diseases that attack plant roots are constantly present in the soil, but affect the plant only when it is under stress - during periods of drought or waterlogging.

Perenosporosis, or downy mildew.

Light powdery spots of fungal mold appear on the bottom of the leaf, and on the top you can see brown spots that gradually cover the entire plant. The disease develops when there is poor air circulation, waterlogging, lack of proper drainage, and the use of undisinfected planting containers.

At the first symptoms of the disease, it is necessary to treat the plants and substrate three times with a systemic fungicide at intervals of several days.

Powdery mildew.

The leaves are covered with a thick white felt coating. Young leaves curl and become deformed. Young shoots are also affected. It is advisable to remove all affected parts of the plant. Watering is reduced to a minimum and the plants are treated with sulfur preparations or fungicides.

Spider mite.

The length of most ticks is less than 1 mm. These pests suck the sap of their host plants, causing small, pale spots to appear on the leaves. Severely affected plants may become covered in silvery webbing. Ticks reproduce quickly and prefer warm, dry conditions. The tick is a carrier of many viral diseases.

If the damage is minor, the leaves and stems of the plant can be washed with warm water and laundry soap, and the pots and trays can also be treated. Three-time treatment with Fitoverm-M, Ak-tofit, and Vertimek is recommended.

Thrips.

Small insects (2 mm) with fringed wings and yellow to brown coloring. Wingless nymphs are paler in color. Adult insects and larvae feed on tissues

plants. Small light spots appear on leaves, flowers and stems. The leaves take on a silvery tint.

To avoid this, spray the plant more often in hot weather. When infested with thrips, plants must be treated with Inta-Vir at intervals of two weeks.

Whitefly.

Small insects are white. They rise in clouds from the crown of the plant when you touch it. Their metabolic products form a sticky coating (honeydew) on the upper side of the leaves. It affects indoor and greenhouse plants, although in summer it also annoys plants in open ground. You can apply triple treatment with Biotlin. The use of sticky insect traps, preferably bright yellow, is also recommended.

An insect 2-3 mm in size settles on buds, young shoots and leaves, feeding on the sap of the host plant. Plant growth slows down, deformed, underdeveloped leaves and shoots appear. Is

spreader of a number of viral diseases. To combat aphids, you can use folk remedies: infusion of garlic, tomato leaves, onion peels, or treat plants with Biotlin and Inta-Vir.

Advice

We prefer to fight pests and diseases using the most radical and merciless methods, forgetting that by destroying insects that feed on plant foods, we also destroy those who feed on them. You can contain the spread of harmful insects using old, repeatedly proven methods. Don't neglect them. There are a huge number of plants that can stop pest invasions. These are caustic buttercup, tansy, wormwood, yarrow, dandelion, etc. Prepare decoctions and tinctures from them and spray plants on which pests and diseases have been noticed.

CREATION OF BALCONY COMPOSITIONS FROM PLANTS

The decorative design of balconies and loggias largely depends on the correct selection of plants and their placement in the container. Knowing them biological features, requirements for growing conditions and taking into account the principles of combining color schemes, you can create various compositions that will decorate your relaxation area. Based on these principles, it is possible to create both harmonic and contrasting options.

There are seven primary colors in nature: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet. The first three are considered “warm” (or active), the rest are “cold” (or passive). White and black are neutral and enhance the tonality of all colors.

The most pleasing to the eye are contrasting color combinations: orange with blue, yellow with purple, red with green. Harmonious combinations can also be allowed: orange with green, yellow with blue, blue with red, purple with orange, yellow with red.

Yellow colors evoke a feeling of warmth and cheerfulness, orange and red balance the composition, giving it greater expressiveness. Blue and purple colors create the illusion of increased space, but in cloudy weather and low lighting they are lost. In addition, we must take into account that they look better at close range.

As a rule, preference is given to compositions of harmonic combination. The created bright large spot is better visible from a distance and pleasing to the eye up close.

In smaller compositions facing the inside of the room, you can use a contrasting combination. Against a background of blue, orange appears warmer, red appears stronger against a background of green, and yellow appears warmer next to violet.

Against a white (neutral) background, passive colors (blue, violet, green) are enhanced.

Balconies look beautiful from monochromatic plantings of one type (red geraniums, yellow tuberous begonias, blue lobelias, pink petunias) or one type, but represented by two flower colors (white and pink for petunias, white and red for geraniums, etc.).

Interesting compositions for landscaping balconies made from two or three types of plants. For example, red pelargonium - alyssum or bacopa; red petunia – petunia petunia; yellow marigolds – blue lobelia; red tuberous begonia – white alyssum; dark pink petunia – lilac bacopa, petiolate cinnamon.

For sunny places with a two-row planting, as an example, we can offer plants of two different species with different flower colors and different growth patterns: pink ivy-leaved pelargoniums (first row) - red zonal ones (second row); blue ampelous lobelia - yellow marigolds; white ampelous petunia – red zonal geranium.

For semi-shaded balconies, red and white ampelous fuchsias and the golden form of morning glory sweet potato, pink ever-flowering begonias and yellow marigolds, blue ageratums and red bush fuchsias are suitable.

For shady locations, red fuchsias and yellow tuberous begonias, red and white ampelous fuchsias and red tuberous begonias are suitable.

Some plants have to be used separately, because their appearance and growing requirements do not combine with other species. For example, coleus, small-flowered chrysanthemums, impatiens.

At correct selection Flower arrangements from several cultures retain their decorative properties much longer and better than a container with one type.

So, guided by knowledge of agricultural technology, selection of plants, composition techniques, you can create landscaping options for your balcony, loggia or terrace. Using all the diversity and splendor of plants, absolutely calmly let your imagination go free and create!