When arranging their homes, people began to pay more attention to radius cabinets. This model allows you to harmoniously save space and add individuality to the room. Do radius cabinet you can do it yourself, despite the fact that its design contains a large number of complex mechanisms. If you carry out the work according to the instructions and follow a pre-drawn diagram, the result will surprise even an experienced designer.
Original and beautiful design
In 2017 radius corner cupboard became a fashion favorite, and demand for it increased significantly. Its advantage is that each created model is unique in its own way, as it is made based on the size of the apartment and its location. Smooth shapes, a large number of compartments and cabinets, individual design– this is all that this model combines.
Models have different types by design, such as:
- built-in - the walls, floor and ceiling are parts of the cabinet, it does not move to other places, but does not take up space in the apartment, most often located in unused space;
- cabinet - assembled as a separate model, based on the dimensions of the room and its location.
Compact and convenient wardrobe
Radial modern wardrobe It’s much easier to make a coupe with your own hands than to look for a suitable size model in a store or place an order with an experienced carpenter. You can calculate the entire layout yourself, based on the specific place the product will stand.
There are a lot of corner cabinets and you can choose them according to your needs. color scheme premises. Today, radius systems allow for smooth transitions and curves, which makes cabinets even more attractive. Coupe doors on rollers do not take up space, open smoothly and easily and look presentable in any presentation.
In addition, this option for storing things can hide uneven walls, asymmetrical corners, and in general use the space correctly.
There is a wide selection of materials for assembling a radius cabinet. It can be wood, plastic or glass that has been subjected to various types processing. The compartment in the hallway can have mirrored doors, which is very convenient for small rooms. Since you choose the sizes yourself, it will not be possible to adjust them special labor. Photos and videos of the original radius sliding wardrobes are presented below, and from them you can decide on your personal choice.
Made of plastic With a mirror With a pattern on glass
Product assembly
Knowing how to make a sliding wardrobe yourself, you can save quite a good amount of money. Cabinets in the hallway, bedroom or living room are assembled according to one sequence: installation of the frame, doors, shelves. First, decide what material the body of the product will be assembled from. Wood is considered the most popular and durable, and getting it is not difficult. Now plastic and knee glass are also not limited in access, but it is worth remembering that, for example, a glass or mirror surface is not entirely suitable for children's rooms.
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Be sure to prepare in advance all drawings and diagrams made according to preliminary measurements. In this case, accuracy is very important, since even small deviations can interfere proper operation doors on wheels.
To obtain perfect option, it is better to seek help from to a skilled craftsman or use our website to view photos and video materials. To work you will need the following tools:
A set of necessary tools
- drill, screwdriver;
- construction meter, level, pencil;
- screws, nails;
- wood glue;
- door mechanisms;
- radius transitions.
From the photos of modern radius cabinets, we can say that the main difficulty in assembling them lies in the doors. This is where the largest number of transitions with a radius grid are located.
The radius cabinet must be assembled from the body, especially if it is a built-in model. Having selected the dimensions and calculated its position, it will not be difficult to make a base. Next, decide on the type of cabinets they will be, retractable or internal. It all depends on the personal preferences of the future owner and carpentry experience. The doors are assembled separately from the body, and then simply installed on pre-purchased wheels.
Remember that a radius cabinet can be made absolutely universal. For example, it has become very fashionable to collect compartments with photo prints of your favorite cartoon characters or family members for children's rooms. This approach will decorate the room and add brightness. Do not doubt your capabilities, because with modern instrument You can make simply incredible things yourself and surprise your family and friends.
Absolutely all novice home renovation masters who decided to do it themselves want to bring something new to the interior of their home. And then desire comes to their aid or even make it yourself.
The shapes of these products have a fairly wide variety, it all depends on finances and imagination. Arches are mainly made with rounded vaults, dropped ceilings not an exception, bright that example you .
A home craftsman, looking at such a design, wonders how the end of such a ceiling is made and how it is possible to bend and at the same time screw a sheet of drywall without breaking it.
Now I will try to tell you in detail and show in the photo how I do it myself. Namely, what needs to be done with metal profile so that it takes the silhouette you need, or how to make a bend of any radius from plasterboard.
How to prepare a profile
As for the profile size, I mainly have to deal with 27/28mm. This is the so-called “guide”. This is perhaps the most commonly used material in combination with 60/27 (used for jumpers).
In order for the guide profile to repeat the radius drawn by you on a sheet of plaster, you need to perform a simple action with it. You don't need a grinder large sizes which should be easily held with one hand when running, and safety glasses.
We install a metal cutting disc on the grinder, cut notches on the profiles every 5cm. Here we need to clarify; the steeper the radius of the arch, the more frequent and smaller the distance between cuts on the iron.
Pay attention to the photo above, I am preparing several workpieces at once, about one meter long; if you try to screw a long workpiece alone, then most likely the result will not be quite even and accurate.
What this technique ultimately gives, I think you can guess for yourself, the notched profile 27/28 turns into a kind of rope, you can easily screw it with self-tapping screws to the drywall, gradually bending it and directing it along a given radius.
We’ve probably sorted this out, if anything is not clear, I’ll be happy to answer you in the comments below the article, don’t be shy and ask questions!
How to bend drywall
Now I come to the most interesting part. Having rummaged through the vastness of our Internet, I discovered that everyone basically advises wet drywall with water so that it bends easily. I won’t argue, since the option really works, I was curious to use it a couple of times.
It just turned out that soaking and bending with this option is not entirely justified in terms of labor costs and time. Plus, I’m sure that a person who is not involved in professional repairs will not succeed. That’s why I don’t want to recommend this method.
But the other option is much more effective and simpler. This is exactly what I insist on; the vast majority of my colleagues work by this principle. All you need is a set of; a stationery knife, a simple pencil, a tape measure, a straight level of no more than 40 cm, and the material itself, pre-cut in the shape of a long strip (again, no more than one meter for ease of screwing alone without outside help).
We prepare drywall for the radius of the suspended ceiling
On a pre-prepared strip, using a tape measure and a pencil, draw lines every 5-10cm. (see photo), the distance is determined by the radius of the semicircle on the ceiling or arch; dashes should be placed on both sides of the workpiece.
Taking a utility knife with the other hand, we run the blade along the drywall, lightly pressing it into the material, and at the same time, relying on the level as a guide. We repeat this simple operation along the entire length and markings.
On this moment“gypsum” can be lifted to the top of the frame and fixed with drywall screws. As soon as you press the material against the frame, it will immediately begin to break along the notches made by the knife, repeating the silhouette of the suspended ceiling radius. If you have an assistant, you can prepare strips much longer, quite realistically from edge to edge of a sheet of drywall (2.5 m).
Many people have furniture in their houses and apartments that was purchased ten or maybe more years ago. On the one hand, it is already morally outdated, but on the other, it has not worn out at all.
When replacing it with a new one, the problem arises of where to put the old one. And here there are three possible options: the first is to sell it, even for pennies, or give it to someone, the second is to send it to a landfill, paying money for disposal, and the third is to reconstruct it. Personally, I try to choose the third one.
The idea for such a cabinet was born before the next renovation in the living room. At the very beginning, we even wanted to order a ready-made radius cabinet from the manufacturer. But when the price tag of 90 thousand was announced, I felt uneasy, to put it mildly. In general, the decision was made to do it ourselves. At first I wanted to make it a coupe type, ordering profiles from the famous Naraina company, which turned out to be 3.5 times cheaper than ordering a ready-made one with their installation. But I also rejected this idea after I saw how the doors flew off the slides at the radius cabinet at the exhibition, every time it was opened. And the seller looked guiltily at the floor and said that the cabinet was not on display. In general, the final decision was made - to make it swinging from floor to ceiling.
During the renovation, we immediately decided on a cabinet radius of 104 cm, with the same radius from wall to wall. I prepared the ceiling from gypsum plasterboard. Attached to the wall with anchors rectangular pipes 20x40x2.0, which is load-bearing structure. That is, the cabinet hangs on them, and does not stand on the floor.
And away we go... By the way, as you can see in the previous photos, I used up not only ten-year-old furniture, but also older furniture - “grandmother’s”, 19mm thick. First, I attached the side walls to the profiles using furniture bolts, then fastened them with horizontal shelves at the top, bottom and middle, using confirmations. The right wall had to be made composite, because it was a fragment old furniture 80 cm wide was not found.
Then I screwed it from the inside back wall mezzanine. I hung the doors on four-hinged 45-degree hinges. Two on the mezzanine and five on the main closet door. The next step was to attach vertical and radial horizontal guides from the outside intended for fastening the trim
I used laminated fiberboard as finishing. Decorative insert with tigers is the so-called work zone for the kitchen, from the same chipboard or HDF. The fiberboard was attached to thin 25mm nails, leaving a gap between the fragments of about 2-3mm, for attaching plastic covers.
One of the photos shows the trimmed doors removed.
Used as horizontal overlays plastic corners 30x30mm, the same color as the trim, of which I cut off one side, leaving 3mm. This is necessary to cover the ends of the fiberboard. I attached them to liquid nails, pressing them with adhesive masking tape.
Vertical overlays, also plastic corners of a different color, only uncut.
Well, the last thing is filling the closet.
This is the design that fits perfectly into the interior of the living room.
Required tool:
- Drill, 8x5 step drill, 35mm cutter, 7mm drill.
- Screwdriver, bits.
- Trimming, with guide angle.
- Sheet of laminated fiberboard (wenge color) 2.83x2.07 - 660 rub.
- Working area - 800 rub.
- Furniture bolts 6x70, 10 pcs – 80 rub.
- Furniture self-tapping screws-confirmed 200pcs – 200rub
- Plastic corner (wenge color) 30x30, 8 pcs – 400 RUR
- Plastic corner (maple color) 30x30, 8 pcs – 400 RUR
- Liquid nails about 200 rub.
- Painting tape 50 rub.
- Metal pipe 40x20, anchors about 250 rubles,
Total: 3040 rub.
I think it's inexpensive;)
In this article we will look at how and with what tools and devices radius (that is, having rounded) furniture parts are made. As a rule, these are shelves and tabletops, although this is not an axiom; any elements of modern cabinet furniture can have various roundings.
Let's start from simple to complex. Moreover, simplicity will be appreciated necessary tool, and not the complexity of the process (the dependence will be inversely proportional - the most cheap method has the greatest labor intensity at the lowest cost for tools and vice versa).
For marking in all cases we will need a pencil and a template (for example, a plate) or a compass. Also, almost everywhere (with the exception of small radii), we will need to saw off excess material with a jigsaw.
You can cut roughly and quickly - the main thing is that the cutting line does not affect the marking line, and also possible chips (that is, you need to retreat from it by 2-5 mm).
If you are going to cover the end with an edging, especially a C-shaped one, then you can simply carefully saw off along the line with a fine-toothed file (for metal). Any chips that appear will be covered by edge overhangs. If you decide to cover the edges with an edge, then read on.
Method 1 - manual sanding
Using the help, we smooth out the resulting cut until marking line. The matter is quite tedious, and maintaining the perpendicularity of the edge relative to the face of the workpiece presents a number of difficulties. I’m not even talking about processing several workpieces at the same time.
But at the same time, it is possible to achieve good results if you wish (and lack a tool).
Method 2 - using a LSM
Mechanization option number one. In this case, the belt sander is placed on its side (as a rule, one of them is perpendicular to the belt) and the excess material is also sanded down to the marking line. The processing speed increases significantly, perpendicularity is at a level, and by stacking several identical workpieces on top of each other and fixing them, it is possible to produce identical parts.
Disadvantage (you can’t make a lot of exactly identical parts - the number is limited by the width of the tape)
Method 3 - using a router
Variations are possible when used:
Option one- work according to the template. Either a part obtained by the previous method can be used as a template,
or a standard template prepared in advance. When passing with the bearing, we simply copy the fillet, transferring it to the workpiece. (In the photo the template is under the details)
This method is optimal for manufacturing large quantity identical parts (for example, radius shelves).
Option two- use of a compass - standard or homemade, from scrap materials (in the photo - a compass from a standard rip fence).
The cut is carried out in several passes with a straight groove cutter. If exactly the same parts are required, then it is better to use a copy cutter - it will be more accurate.
IN furniture production Both of the latter methods are used.
Thanks to this technique, a dynamic effect is created, which allows you to visually increase the space of the room. The easiest way is to order such a facade from a furniture manufacturer, where for a fee they will make a model for you according to your requirements and parameters. But this is the simplest option. Despite the fact that all this seems complicated, you can make such furniture yourself, without the help of specialists. This article will help you understand how to make a curved facade yourself.
The use of curved facades is often found in kitchen sets, prefabricated furniture structures or to make a radius cabinet. This is done in order to give a beautiful and stylish look to your furniture, and most importantly, for maximum use the entire space in the room. Another plus is that the sharp corners will not cause damage to both the housewife and the children, who often run around such pieces of furniture.
But to do this work yourself, you should consider some points:
- To calculate such modules, more complex design is required than for conventional furniture.
- To make a curved facade you will need much more money than standard.
- Profile curved cornice and false panels are difficult to find, moreover, their price will be much higher than that of their analogues.
But don’t despair, because none of this is scary. If you find it difficult to make the right project and calculate all the necessary parameters, you can turn to a furniture manufacturing company for help. They can provide not only calculations and software design, but also a three-dimensional model that will be made according to your sketch.
You can buy the necessary elements and components from the catalogs of manufacturing companies. You can get it at any specialized store, take it there contact information. total cost furniture will be higher, but the quality is still guaranteed. Moreover, such furniture will serve you for a very long time.
Where to start
To make a curved facade with your own hands for a shelf, cabinet or for the kitchen, it will work well MDF board. If someone has already dealt with her, it will be much easier for him. It is soft and pliable, so it can be easily processed. To make a curved facade, two slabs are needed - internal and external. The total thickness of the workpiece should be 16 mm. To get radial parts you need:
- make an end template with the required radius;
- subtract the required number of slabs that will be curved;
- cut blanks for bent parts;
- make markings for cuts where the area will be bent.
To make a curved facade, prepare the following tools and materials:
- MDF boards, at least 2;
- pencil, ruler and tape measure;
- circular and hand saw;
- wood glue;
- brush;
- small nails and hammer;
- small spatula;
- clamps;
- screwdriver and finishing tools.
Having collected such an arsenal, you can get to work.
Making a curved facade
So, to make a curved facade, you will need two MDF sheets, each 9 mm thick. As already mentioned, one of them will be external, and the other will be internal. The façade will be smooth on all sides. Since basically all furniture is made of wood , There should not be any difficulties in the work. You will need a minimum of tools and a little patience.
To bend a plate to the required radius and make it stay in this position for a long time, simple force is not enough. For this purpose, you need to make cuts on the sheet running across the fold. First, make a template. It could be a shelf, a cabinet or something else. We will be guided by it when making the curved facade itself.
You need to cut MDF sheets with a margin so as not to make mistakes. After all, the excess will then be easily cut off, but it will not be possible to sharpen the missing centimeters.
Remember that the inner radius of the bent facade is smaller than the outer one, so make the outer blank longer. Then you need to find the center of the two blanks and mark it with dashed lines in height on one side and the other. Based on these lines, the workpieces will then be glued together.
Depending on the type of bend, you need to mark the cuts, which allow you to make a rounded piece from a straight MDF sheet. Draw lines spaced one from another by 5 mm. It is thanks to these cuts that our structure will be able to acquire a bent shape and not break. Now you need to make the cuts. For this you will need a circular saw. Adjust it so as not to cut the sheet to the base, but also not to leave too much undercut. An undercut of 1 mm is considered ideal.
To avoid spoiling the finished workpiece, immediately before making cuts, use unnecessary trimmings for training. Do everything as it should: apply markings with a distance of 5 mm and start cutting. Remember, such cuts must be made both on the outer workpiece and on the inner one.
How many cuts to make depends on how much you need to bend the part. If you need to make a curved corner, you need several stripes in that place. And when you need to make shelves under a sink or a cabinet in the kitchen, where the bend radius is large, the cuts should be made almost along the entire plane. Do not throw away the sawdust from working with the saw; you will need it in your work.
After the cuts are made, they need to be filled with a special paste, which requires wood glue and sawdust. The slots need to be sealed on both workpieces. The consistency of the paste should be such that it easily fills the cuts, but not too liquid. Using a spatula, rub the mixture into the slots. To avoid air pockets, apply the paste along the cut from the center outwards.
After this, dilute the glue using a little water. Using a brush, brush the solution over the two pieces to smooth out the paste and remove excess sawdust. Then install the inner blank onto the template. The outer blank is laid on top of it, aligning with the dashed lines that were applied in the center of the blanks.
Next, you need to nail the pieces to one another using thin nails. Don't force them in so hard that they can be easily removed. Don’t worry that they will leave holes; everything further on the facade will need to be primed, puttied and painted. Therefore, all the holes will be hidden and invisible.
The facade must be fixed with clamps and left until it is completely dry. After drying, the workpiece must be cut as necessary, cleaned, sanded the edges and provided with reinforcements for fittings. After this, it is ready for finishing.
Making a curved facade is not exactly easy and quick, but such an element in your design will attract others, delight you with its beauty and save space. Especially if it is a small kitchen or bathroom. You will also protect yourself and your family from injuries and bruises.
Video
This video shows how a curved facade is made: