From the very beginning of working in the workshop I encountered the problem of removing dust after work. The only available way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop made the problem worse. Some solutions have been to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. Water freezes in winter unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all nooks and crannies can be reached with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust.
In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.
However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust greatly exceeds calculated values, will greatly affect the life of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.
There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found it on thematic forums interesting solution- use cyclone filter in combination with a regular household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems with household vacuum cleaners can be solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to the standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some people assemble cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others from plywood and whatever their imagination allows. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.
The principle of operation is simple - the air flow swirls in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the influence of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.
One of common problems in the operation of cyclones there is a so-called “carousel”. This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a flow rate of air created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the “carousel” will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the “carousel” into the container and takes its place. And in the second model, plastic cyclones of this carousel practically do not exist. To eliminate air leaks, I coated the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.
I decided to get a larger dust collection container so that I would have to take out the trash less often. I bought a 127 liter barrel, apparently made in Samara - just the right size! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a string bag - on a different cart, so as not to strain herself.
Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collection unit permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them into Right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one unit.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to make the body of the installation from metal. Frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.
When installed vertically, there is a risk of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this purpose, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.
The noticeable weight of the cart is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure was not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.
In order to achieve verticality of the rods, I had to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve precise setting of the angles.
It is convenient to move the cart while holding the vertical bars, so I reinforced their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.
The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame using clamps.
At the top of the rods there is a platform for the vacuum cleaner. Next, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and secured wooden planks using self-tapping screws.
Here, in fact, is the entire frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But in other way low performance due to lack of heating in the workshop. Safety glasses and a welding mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and are bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is completed. Besides, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.
I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in cold weather, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint has a hardener, don’t worry about it at all.
I found in the caches an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha back in the summer - . The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerite added a little regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began painting.
In the summer this paint dried in one hour. It’s hard to say how long it took to dry in the winter, but when I returned to the studio by the evening of the next day, the paint was dry. True, without the promised hammer effect. It's probably the degreaser that's to blame, not negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it’s not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.
The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is quite flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads may occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel needs to be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very varied, but the idea is something like this:
I approached this a little differently. I welded a holder for pipes of a suitable diameter onto one of the rods.
In this holder I clamp the hose, which bears all the twisting and jerking. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any loads. Now you can pull the unit directly behind you by the hose without fear of damaging anything.
I decided to secure the barrel with tightening straps. When I was choosing locks at a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down belt with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and the bare frog-type lock lying next to it cost me 180 rubles. Russian production would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology lies.
Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, not the entire barrel was compressed, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself out with a click.
At the top of the installation there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner
As household vacuum cleaner purchased a bagless almost two-kilowatt monster. I was already thinking that this would be useful for me at home.
While buying a vacuum cleaner from an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. People sell used items without a guarantee, with a worn-out part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some popular items, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of posting of advertisements, this trade sometimes lasts for years. And as soon as you start haggling and name an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I finally found it for myself great option for 800 rubles. Famous brand, 1900 Watt, built-in cyclone filter (the second one in my system) and another fine filter.
To secure it, I couldn’t think of anything more elegant than pressing it with a tightening belt. In principle, it holds securely.
I had to get a little tricky with connecting the hoses. As a result, we have such a setup. And it works!
Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such things, people are choked with delight. I experienced something similar when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone wears street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!
I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it up only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!
We managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom into the barrel. When the device is operating, thanks to the transparency of the filter, you can observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was a small amount of it and it was a particularly light and volatile fraction.
I'm very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You could say I'm moving to new era.
Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, determined only by the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be carried and pulled by the hose without fear of tearing out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.
After some time of using the installation, I still encountered the problem of a lack of rigidity of the barrel.
I purchased a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but it sucks like a beast - it sucks up stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and tears bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner collapsed a blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tightly wrapping the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, it's a shame. But it looks something like this:
On thematic forums they warn about this possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.
There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not yield any results.
2. Assemble the box yourself the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.
The box was assembled using self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed using double-sided foam tape.
The cart had to be altered a little - the rear clamp had to be modified to fit a square tank.
The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a garbage bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). Old barrel didn't allow this.
The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows
The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher I wrote about pricing policy on these frog castles. But I had to fork out more.
It worked out well. Cute, functional, reliable. How I love.
It all started when I started falling asleep with sawdust. Any operation with a power tool generates sawdust. I tried to immediately use a Karcher construction vacuum cleaner, but it stopped working after 5 minutes of operation - the filter simply became clogged. Therefore, it was decided to make the vacuum cleaner myself. Honestly, this is my third vacuum cleaner, and there will be many more, people ask me to repeat it.
It all starts with the container. It was decided to make the container ourselves because I couldn’t find a 100-liter barrel that was light and non-constricting. So I made a frame out of plywood and filled it cellular polycarbonate. There is a ring inside to prevent the barrel from collapsing.
Using a milling compass, I cut rings and made a separator body, into which a flow of debris enters tangentially and, under the influence of centrifugal force, falls through a slot down the barrel. I foolishly took fiberboard for a round wall, don’t repeat my mistakes! 3 or 4mm plywood is better for this. The pipe is made of 50mm plumbing pipe.
The separator is covered on top with a lid with a hole on which the filter housing is mounted. The filter element is used from an injection VAZ car, their price is affordable.
A motor from a powerful vacuum cleaner with a native damper ring is mounted on the cover of the filter housing, which reduces sound and vibration.
To prevent the barrel from being crushed when the hose is blocked, a safety valve. Simple and reliable design, you can even adjust it :)
The body is covered with Shumka. A switch and sockets for connecting power tools are installed.
An autostart unit for a vacuum cleaner from a connected load with a shutdown delay has been assembled. A kind of current relay. :) The photo shows a prototype.
Here is a photo of the vacuum cleaner test. Near Karcher. It has wheels from an old chair to carry around :) And a handle to shake it out.
The vacuum cleaner took its place on a stand in the corner and only comes out for cleaning. The hose from it goes to the ceiling along with a cable for connecting the tool and reaches all the working surfaces of the workshop.
I'll post photos of my vacuum cleaner's other bros. First option. He has been working in someone else's garage for a long time, the owner asks to repeat it :) 25 liter bucket. A trial version without any frills, pure functionality.
My father has this terrible monster. Not a very stable structure, but he's just a beast! When the air is blocked, half a meter of hose is sucked in and the bucket collapses. :)
Process machining wooden workpieces are always accompanied by the release of dust or the scattering of shavings and sawdust. Modern power tools provide the ability to connect any installations for collection and disposal wood waste, but their acquisition for household needs not always justified. At home, it successfully copes with the problem of dust removal homemade device. Let us consider in detail the procedure for making a vacuum cleaner for the workshop.
Required materials and tools
The basis for the project is an old household vacuum cleaner, from which the following components are used:
Motor part;
Power regulator;
Power cord;
Suction hose;
Nozzles
For the homemade body, select a polyethylene barrel with a capacity of 50–80 liters, always with a fixed lid. You will also need:
A piece of plastic sewer pipe diameter 50 mm;
Plywood 5–10 mm thick;
M6 bolts and nuts – 14 pieces each;
Strip of galvanized sheet metal;
Air filter from a minibus;
220 Volt switch;
Threaded rod with washers and nuts;
Construction sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue rods;
Drain corrugated hose for washing machine;
Electrical installation corrugation HDPE 32.
Docking units are made of plastic tubes and fittings, selected depending on the size of the pipes on the tools and the diameters of the vacuum cleaner intake hoses. List of tools used:
Glue gun;
Drill;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Wire cutters;
Electric jigsaw;
Sharp knife;
Files;
Caulk gun.
The process of making a vacuum cleaner for a workshop
Stepping back approximately 100 mm from the top, mark a hole on the wall of the barrel for the inlet pipe and drill it using a drill. Then use a knife to give the hole an oval shape so that the inner end of the pipe is placed close to the wall and points down at a slight angle. Degrease the surfaces to be joined and, using glue gun, fix the pipe in place.
Using the same “hot” method, an adapter for the suction hose is attached to the outside of the pipe.
Using a jigsaw, cut out two circles from plywood with a diameter slightly smaller than that of the barrel lid. First, two holes are made in the blanks for bolts and the parts are secured on both sides of the cover. Next, drill the remaining holes, remove the circles and remove the burrs with sandpaper. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the workpieces, place the parts on the lid and fully install the fasteners. A hole is made for the pin in the center of the plywood circles, and a little to the side for the air intake of the motor block.
Remove from the air filter with pliers metal mesh, otherwise it will become clogged with sawdust and interfere with cleaning the vacuum cleaner. One end of the cylinder is covered with a plywood plug.
The prepared filter element is secured to the stud with a wing nut.
The motor part usually has round shapes. Therefore, for ease of installation, the plastic parts in which the motor was located are cut out from the body of the old vacuum cleaner. Thanks to them, to secure the unit to the barrel lid, you only need one clamp, made from a strip of tin.
A switch and power regulator are placed next to the engine, placing the latter in a suitable box. All that remains is to connect the elements together with wires and connect the cable with the plug. After making sure that the connections are correct and that there are no exposed contacts, apply power and check the operation of the device.
The standard suction hose of a household vacuum cleaner is too short; it is extended with a corrugated tube for laying wiring or another similar product.
Manufacturing of nozzles and adapters
Cleanliness in the workshop begins with the workbench. To clean the workplace, use a standard brush that comes with the household appliance.
The nozzle is connected using a rubber adapter cut from a tube of appropriate caliber, for example, from a pipe of a car’s cooling system.
One of the most littered power tools is the power planer. The outlet fitting of the tool is large enough; most likely, the vacuum cleaner hose will connect without problems.
The design does not provide a filling sensor - at first you should look inside more often to prevent the vacuum cleaner from overfilling.
Cleanliness and order in a home workshop is the result of work done with your own hands, achieved with a minimum of financial investment.
Choosing the right Festool dust extractor is as easy as operating it. The perfect solution for individual tasks, thanks to the excellent coordination of all components of the dust extraction system.
Arsenal Masters promotions:
Manufactured by FESTOOL (Germany).
It is not for nothing that the Festool professional tool has won the hearts of millions of Craftsmen around the world. Since 1925, the Festool brand has been synonymous with the highest quality, precision and durability. Festool products are developed based on customer interaction to perfectly match the application. "It's better with the system!" - tools, accessories, consumables are perfectly suited and combined with each other. “Arsenal of the Master” invites you into the world of owners and lovers of Festool tools, and you, like so many, will also say: “Perfectly thought out, a pleasure to work with!”
What classes of dust do you have to work with?
All types of dust are divided into three main classes L, M, H.
They indicate the suitability of the extractor for working with certain types of dust and compliance with the maximum permissible concentration values harmful substances in the air working area(MPC). In addition, the classes determine what degree of air purification the filtration system must provide. When choosing a dust extractor, you should focus on the type of dust you are dealing with.
First of all, let us recall a few advantages of dust removal - operation of the tool with a vacuum cleaner:
Cleanliness in the workplace.
Good review working area due to the suction of sawdust and dust from it.
The service life of the tool itself, consumables: saws, cutters, abrasive wheels increases significantly.
Significant reduction in costs for secondary work - cleaning and cleaning of tools.
Increasing your professional status in the eyes of the client due to “clean”, and therefore more qualified and expensive work.
4.
Consumables: filters and bags.
An important point when selecting a vacuum cleaner (from the point of view of operating costs) is the material of the dust bag.
Bags can be disposable or reusable:
The vacuum cleaner comes standard with disposable bags. They are made of paper or non-woven fabric. Paper bags do not allow dust to pass through, but can tear. Also, a paper bag does not allow you to use the maximum useful volume of the vacuum cleaner’s capacity. In this regard, disposable bags made of synthetic fabric make much better use of volume. In addition, they are breathable: when you turn off the vacuum cleaner, they wrinkle, thereby compressing the dust a little, which ensures better filling of the bag.
Reusable - made of durable multi-layer material and, due to the use of convenient large zip-up flaps, can be quickly cleaned.
When choosing bags, remember that cheap bags are usually made of low-quality fabric that allows fine dust to pass through. And the gluing of the bag fastening sleeve to the fabric bag itself may be weak. This means that the bag can simply come off at a time of high load, which threatens an early filter replacement - the most expensive consumable part vacuum cleaner.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners can operate without a bag. These vacuum cleaners include vacuum cleaners that have an automatic shaking or “self-cleaning” mode. The manufacturer Festool, for example, has such vacuum cleaners marked “AC” in the model name. The essence of self-cleaning is periodic vacuum discharge inside the vacuum cleaner, which is accompanied by a slight pop. Due to this vacuum, the filter is shaken and cleaned of dust. With this constructive solution The vacuum cleaner works without a bag. This is convenient from the point of view of saving on bags, but reduces the life of the filter. By the way, there are vacuum cleaners with both manual filter shaking mode and automatic mode. Automatic mode can also be permanent or switchable. This is necessary to be able to work both with and without a bag. This option is more versatile and ensures greater filter safety.
Filters can be for dry dust and chips, or for wet or liquid consistency. By the way, almost all construction and industrial vacuum cleaners are designed to collect water or liquid dirt. It is only necessary to have a special filter. And ideally, there is also a sensor for filling the vacuum cleaner tank.
The filters are structurally made in the form of flat or cylindrical cassettes. It is believed that the higher the useful plane of the filter, the cleaner the cleaning. In fact effective area the filtration through which air is forced is directly related to the suction power and the diameter of the hose. Manufacturers themselves try to maintain the correct relationship between these parameters. And you and I, as users, shouldn’t even think about this any more than we should think about why the electrical network now has 220 volts.
The most important thing that you and I should know and remember when choosing a vacuum cleaner according to consumables this is the following:
a vacuum cleaner that has a large supply of capacity - you need to clean it less often and change bags less often. A vacuum cleaner with a smaller capacity is, on the contrary, more expensive to operate with the same performance.
If you expect both dry and liquid dust, then you need two different filters.
if the filter (usually cylindrical) eats up the useful capacity of the vacuum cleaner tank, then this means you will have to choose between compactness and performance.
5.
Additional equipment.
As additional equipmentfor industrial and professional vacuum cleaners for tools can be:
Compartment or reel for hose and cord
Additional tool and accessory holders
6. Additional features of the vacuum cleaner.
An important factor when choosing a vacuum cleaner for a tool is the availability of additional features:
fastening of tools and accessories
using a vacuum cleaner as a storage system when it is possible to attach cases with tools and materials to the vacuum cleaner
using a vacuum cleaner as a mobile cart
using a vacuum cleaner as a complete mobile workstation.
Any additional function will, of course, increase the cost of the initial cost of a vacuum cleaner, but at the same time it will save you time, nerves and other resources in the future. It is worth remembering that, according to the experience of the Masters, purchasing any additional option (features in the form of equipment) after purchasing a product costs at least twice as much as if you purchased it all at once.
What else is worth paying your attention to is complete set of vacuum cleaner.
As a rule, a set of industrial or construction vacuum cleaners for tools includes: a hose and a dust bag (dirt, debris). But nozzles for cleaning premises may not be included initially in the delivery package. Of course, it is better to immediately purchase a vacuum cleaner complete with nozzles and pipes - kits are always cheaper. But perhaps you need some special nozzles or metal rather than plastic pipes. This is true, for example, for an industrial workshop. Then it makes sense to choose a kit individually for your needs.
IMPORTANT!
The dust extraction pipe of a grinder and jigsaw, for the most part, has outside diameter 25 or 27 mm. Saws and milling cutters - 35, 36 mm. Therefore, the inner diameter of the hose coupling must be appropriate. Construction vacuum cleaners initially have larger diameter hose and coupling with an internal diameter of 35, 36 mm.
1 example :
Choose a vacuum cleaner for a carpentry workshop.
For a carpentry workshop, that is, for working with wood dust, ideally (from the point of view of following occupational safety standards) you need an “M” class vacuum cleaner. However, according to Russian experience Most workshops are content with "L" class vacuum cleaners.
For full-fledged carpentry work during 1 shift, you need a vacuum cleaner with a useful tank volume of at least 15 liters, and optimally more than 25 liters.
or (with a small difference in price, MIDI has almost twice the capacity compared to MINI).
If you have a dealership with a good flow of cars, then it will be more profitable for you to use a vacuum cleaner with a larger capacity, for example, or - in case of normal work.
If work is expected to grind aluminum (the body panels of some modern cars are made from it), then it is possible to use only an explosion-proof vacuum cleaner - for example:
3 example :
Choose a vacuum cleaner for the Festool Planex Lh225 wall and ceiling sander.
For work aimed at this machine, it is better to use an “M” class vacuum cleaner with an automatic filter shaking mode. In addition, if you plan to work a whole shift, then the tank must have a capacity of more than 30 liters (based on the performance of the Festool Planex sander). Thus, the most suitable vacuum cleaner would be:
-
Dust extractor FESTOOL CLEANTEX CTL 36 E AC-PLANEX with Autoclean system 