A simple device for sharpening drills with your own hands. Homemade device for sharpening small-diameter drills Devices for sharpening drills at home

Drill sharpening can be done manually, on machines or with special abrasive discs.

If you sharpen the drill by hand, then you need to:

hold the shank firmly and guide its spiral part with the other hand;
press the cutting edge of the drill against the side surface abrasive wheel;
After sharpening one side, you need to smoothly turn the drill, while cutting edges must have the correct inclination to the axis and take the desired configuration.

The drill is sharpened on both sides alternately. At the same time, be sure to control the cutting edges.

Remember! The tip of the drill should be exactly in the center.

Otherwise, it will deviate during operation. It is worth noting that under no circumstances should you put too much pressure on the drill, otherwise it may get defects (bending).

For example, if after sharpening you notice that the cutting edges are not equal and are inclined at different angles to the axis, this means that the middle of the transverse edge is not in the center of the drill, and it will not work correctly.

When sharpening, be sure to pay attention to the initial angle of the tool. It is he who will become your guide in the future. Then inspect the gimlet for damage:

if you find serious defects, you can use coarse sandpaper;
if the defects are small and the drill is only slightly dull, use a finishing wheel. This operation is necessary for thin drills;
if the concrete drill has defects in the shank taper, treat top part tool, gently pressing it against the grinding wheel;
After processing, carefully inspect the back surface of the drill again;
If you notice, or determine with a template, that you have a perfect cone, you have sharpened the tool correctly.

After this, process the cutting edge of the drill. The size of the jumper for rational turning of the tool should be 1-1.7 mm.

What are the features of sharpening machines?

A homemade device for sharpening drills is designed for through and blind drills made of steel, cast iron and various hard alloys. Depending on the type, machines can be equipped different functions. On some of them, you can vary the angle during operation.

There are sharpening machines:

universal – used for various cutting tools;
specialized - for one type.

Universal machines include devices for drill sharpening, because they can be used to process:

taps;
cutters;
dugouts;
countersinks.

Machines are divided into two categories:

Industrial - have high power and are designed for sharpening large diameter tools. Power depends directly on the engine.
Domestic grinder for drills - quite compact and is often used for home use. It can be used to process even small-diameter drills.

There are seven sharpening methods:

Single-plane.
Complex screw.
Shaped.
Elliptical.
Conical.
Two-plane.
Screw.

How to make a device for sharpening drills

To make a homemade machine you will need:

toggle switch;
abrasive wheel;
stub;
engine;
stand;
wires.

Follow our tips:

For safety reasons, place the homemade machine in the case, leaving only the axle and abrasive wheel outside. Remember, the device will work from the network.
Select in advance the location where your drill sharpening device will be placed. It is advisable that it be on a metal table.
Next, place the electric motor on the tabletop using fasteners (clamps) and mark the locations of the holes for the bolts, if it has legs.
After this, remove the electric motor and make 4 holes.
Later, reinstall the engine and secure it carefully with the bolts.

Advice: If the engine does not have legs, you can strengthen it with metal strips (clamps).

The electric motor for our future machine must be equipped with a special elongated shaft, onto which a granular disk should be placed. For this:

Install the fastening nut by first cutting a right-hand thread at the end of the shaft.
Secure the disc with a washer and nuts.

If the diameter of the shaft and the disc holes match, then install a washer on the shaft, and then an abrasive disc. If the diameter of the shaft and the hole do not match, then you will need to add a bushing.

First make a special side hole in it with a thread for a bolt in order to be able to secure it tightly to the shaft. After this you can put the sleeve on.

If you can't decide on an electric motor, then just take an old motor washing machine. It is ideal for homemade device sharpening.

It is worth noting that you must prepare in advance the starter and wires that will subsequently need to be connected. It is very important that the starter has at least three to four open contacts. Its winding must be connected using two buttons to the phase line.

Attention! The electric motor will be unsafe, regardless of the type - during operation, the rotating shaft can accidentally wind up a cord, wire, or hair.

Advice: Make a metal box to protect the machine from dust, abrasive particles, and you from accidental injuries.

How to properly sharpen a drill on a machine

When sharpening, you must ensure that the two shoulders of the drill are identical. If you achieve such a correspondence, then the axis of rotation of the drill will completely coincide with the center of the hole.
Before you start sharpening, be sure to ensure that the abrasive disc is tightly secured.
Always start the process with a coarser abrasive. Once a burr appears on your drill, you can change the abrasive to a finer one.
Watch the sharpening angle.
Do not allow the windings to switch so that the abrasive disc rotates in reverse. It should always move only in the direction of the blade.

Please note that drills cannot tolerate excessive overheating. Cool the gimlet regularly while sharpening. But under no circumstances put a red-hot drill into water, as cavities may appear in it.

Additional accessories

Guide

To avoid holding the drill suspended during sharpening (this can lead to injury), provide a support or guide in the form of a small attachment. It is made from a strip of metal, bent as shown in the figure and screwed to the frame (base). The drill is rested on it and brought to the circle at the desired angle.

Goniometer

Make marks (marks) on the guide described above for the required sharpening angles. It will become much more convenient to use.

If this is difficult for you, cut off the top part of a regular protractor and glue it to the guide.

Angles less than 30 0 are not used for sharpening, so we sacrifice them.

Universal device

To facilitate sharpening of tools, in particular drills, a mechanism has been developed consisting of a drill chuck, a shaft, roller guides (sled) and a protractor.

The main substrate described above is made wide. A protractor is glued onto it. A hole is drilled into which a bolt is inserted, which serves as an axis for the rotating surface.

A plate is installed on it on a roller slide, on which a pipe with a cartridge on the axis is fixed. The plate itself moves forward/backward using a conventional feed mechanism (threaded axis).

At the bottom of the rotating plate there is a displacement limiter indicator. It serves to rotate the device to the desired angle and to lock it.

Working with the device

A drill is inserted into the chuck.
The plate is turned to the desired angle and locked with a pointer.
They twist the handle, achieving necessary sharpening half a drill.
Notice the division.
Turn the drill 90 0 and repeat the operation, bringing the drill to the noticed point.

Any cutting attachments for a drill become dull during operation, which, in fact, does not require proof. However, do not rush to throw them away, since you can return the nozzle to its original functionality by sharpening it. Next we will describe in detail how to do this.

When is sharpening required?

While wood drills can be used for a long time and still remain sharp, metal tools become unusable very quickly. Certainly, experienced master identifies a dull drill by eye or by its first contact with the metal surface. If you are a beginner, you can determine the need for sharpening of a tool by the following criteria:

during the drilling process, creaking and whistling occur;
the tool heats up much faster than usual;
the quality of the hole is low - there are jagged and burrs;
chips come out of only one spiral groove (this sign may also indicate improper sharpening).

Keep in mind that if you use a blunt tip you are putting yourself in danger and it may break. In this case, its flying parts can cause serious injury. In addition, the drill can “bite”. In such a situation, if the drill is powerful or you are working on a machine, the part is torn out of your hands, which often also ends in injury. Therefore, under no circumstances should you delay sharpening or replacing the tip.

Main parameters of the part

So that you can properly sharpen the tip, first of all, let's look at its main elements, which include:

cutting part (cutting edge), formed by the convergence of the groove surface and the rear surface;
the front surface, which is located under the cutting edge;
back surface, which is located behind the edge:
a bridge located between two rear surfaces.

During operation of the nozzle, the cutting edge, bridge and rear surfaces suffer the most. Therefore, the restoration of the tool occurs by sharpening the rear surfaces to which the cutting edge and the bridge are adjacent. However, not everything is so simple: in order for the edge to become sharp again and a clear bridge to form, the sharpening angles must correspond to the values from the table:

Compliance with these values will allow the cutting edge to always be the first to contact the surface of the workpiece, which will ensure maximum efficiency tool. The length of the cutting edge depends on the apex angle. Compliance with this will allow the chips to fit well into the groove and come out. If you make the angle more acute, the width of the cut strip will increase, as a result of which the chips will clog the groove and will no longer be removed from the hole with all the ensuing consequences. An angle that is too obtuse will reduce the effectiveness of the drill.

Sharpening on a sharpening machine

At home it will not be difficult to use a regular sharpening machine. The only thing is that it is desirable that the machine be equipped with a tool rest, i.e. a small platform located in front of the working surface of the sharpening disc. The distance between the tool rest and the end of the circle should be no more than one millimeter.

The optimal rotation speed of the grinding wheel is one and a half thousand revolutions per minute.

If the nozzle is very dull, i.e. the cutting edges with the rear surfaces have become asymmetrical; in order to properly sharpen the tool, it is advisable to make a simple device by following these steps:

Draw a straight line on the tool rest at an angle of 60 degrees relative to the working surface of the abrasive disc. The line should be located opposite the working surface;
Attach a piece of metal corner to the tool rest, aligning it along the intended line, as shown in the photo below. Those. the corner should also be located at an angle of 60 degrees in relation to the working surface of the circle. You can use a clamp to secure the corner. If you sharpen frequently, you can drill holes and secure the angle with bolts.

Thanks to this device, you can attach a drill to the back of the corner with your own hands and thus ensure a back surface angle of 60 degrees. Now that everything is ready, you can get to work. First of all, you need to install the coarse abrasive disc and turn on the machine. Then you need to pick up the drill correctly. To do this, place two fingers right hand on the tool rest, and place the tool to be sharpened on them. As a result, the fingers will serve as a support. With your left hand, grasp the shank of the tool you are sharpening. Turn the drill itself so that the cutting edge that you will sharpen is strictly horizontal.

Now place the tool with its side plane against the back of the angle and bring it with your hands to the working surface of the sharpener. The right hand should remain motionless, and the left hand, which holds the tool by the shank, should move slightly in a vertical plane, rocking the drill. Thus, sharpening should occur from the cutting edge to the end of the flank surface.

During the sharpening process, a large number of sparks, so be sure to wear safety glasses when performing this operation.

Using this pattern, make several rocking movements with your left hand up/down. There is no need to strain your hands too much, as the drill will not be pulled out, so just be careful. Having sharpened one back surface, you should rotate the drill 180 degrees with your left hand and sharpen the second back surface in the same way. Upon completion of the work, make sure that the sharpening angle of the drill, i.e. The apex angle is 120 degrees, which is optimal for a metal tool. Also, make sure that the edges and backrests are symmetrical. If the tool is far from ideal, it needs to be sharpened further.

It must be said that as a result of moving the shank in a vertical plane, the rear surface is rounded. Therefore, such sharpening is called conical. It is used for drill diameter more than three millimeters. Correctly sharpen more thin drill for metal it is even simpler - its cutting part is pressed against the plane of the sharpener and sharpened without any swaying. As a result, the back surface acquires one flat plane. Therefore, such sharpening is called single-plane. The grip of the drill during this processing is shown in the photo below.

After sharpening is completed and the tool has acquired correct form, you need to do some fine-tuning. The fact is that the surface after sharpening with a coarse abrasive is far from ideal. Therefore, you need to install a disk with fine abrasive on the machine and remove all roughness. As a result, the surface should be perfectly smooth.

It is necessary to bring the tool to be sharpened to the working surface of the sharpener smoothly so that there is no impact.

To make sure that the job is done correctly, try drilling a hole, maybe not even a deep one, and make sure that the edge is smooth and even. This is the main indicator of a sharpened tool.

Drills for wood can also be sharpened in exactly the same way. The only thing is that their angle at the apex is made more acute - 140 degrees. Accordingly, the tool is brought to the sharpener at an angle of 70 degrees.

No sharpening machine - grinder for all occasions

If you don't have sharpening machine, but at the same time you urgently need to sharpen the drill, you can use a grinder (angle grinder). But keep in mind that a sander is one of the most dangerous hand power tools. Violation of safety precautions when working with it leads to serious injuries and sometimes death. Therefore, if you have no experience working with angle grinders, it is better not to try to save money, but to buy a new attachment.

If you nevertheless decide to sharpen drills with a grinder, use exclusively an end flap wheel for these purposes. In addition, it is desirable that the grinder itself be small, i.e. low-power. The sharpening process is as follows:

1. The grinder is placed on a horizontal plane with the disc up so that the disc is also horizontal. The tool must be held firmly with your left hand, and the power button should also be controlled with the same hand.
2. Then the drill must be brought to the disk and sharpened, trying to maintain the factory angles. The grinder should be turned on at minimum speed.

The disadvantage of this method is that sharpening is carried out “by eye”, so if you have not sharpened metal drills before, it is better to abandon this method. Inept actions can further damage the instrument.

We use the device - when theory is not needed

The easiest way to sharpen a drill for wood or metal, which does not require any skills or knowledge from you, is to use a special device for a drill or screwdriver. The device is a nozzle with holes of different diameters.

To sharpen, you need to put the attachment on the power tool, then insert the tool into the hole corresponding to its diameter and turn it until it stops. Special grooves will fix the drill in the working position. Keep in mind that it is extremely important to position the drill correctly in the hole, as only then will the back surface be machined right angle. After installing the drill, you need to turn on the power tool and wait a while until one side is sharpened. Then the tool to be sharpened must be rotated 180 degrees and the procedure repeated.

The disadvantage of the device is that there is a limitation on the diameter. The minimum diameter of a drill that can be sharpened is 3–3.5 mm, and the maximum is 10 mm. As a rule, the diameter step is 5 mm. However, for domestic purposes this is quite enough. The cost of such a device ranges from 600 to 4000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The most expensive products are from German manufacturer Bosch.

A few words about repairing concrete drills

All of the sharpening methods described above apply to tools for metal and wood. However, a drill with a pobedit tip can also become dull. At the same time, it behaves in the same way as a metal tool - it drills poorly, quickly overheats and produces an unpleasant high-frequency sound during operation. It must be said that the principle of sharpening Pobedit drills is approximately the same as for metal tools, however, there are some important nuances.

First of all, you need to measure the height of the cutting part of the dull tool. It makes sense to sharpen drills if the height is at least 7-10 mm. If the height is less, it will not be possible to achieve a high-quality result, so it is more profitable to purchase a new nozzle. For sharpening we need a circle with diamond coating. Please note that the carbide tip does not tolerate high temperatures. Therefore, it is necessary to work at minimum speed.

To sharpen a carbide drill correctly, you first need to correct the edges of the tip, which are the first to “lick off” when working on concrete. The corners of the soldering edges must be even, i.e. at 90 degrees. Then the back surfaces are sharpened to the soldering point, as shown in the photo above. If the carbide tip has worn down to the steel, it is necessary to sharpen the front part. Otherwise, the soft steel will come to the surface of the cutting edge, and accordingly, in this case, no efficiency and quality of drilling will be achieved from the tool.

To sharpen a Pobedit drill without overheating it, use a coolant during work - water or machine oil.

As with any other drill, be sure to ensure symmetry. The cutting sides must be the same size. If the center of the axis moves, the effectiveness of the tool will decrease, in addition, the holes will be uneven. There is also one more important rule– the harder the tip, the sharper the apex angle should be. For pobedite soldering, this angle should be 170 degrees.

That, in fact, is all you need to know to sharpen drills yourself.

If we talk about those drills that are used by craftsmen at home, their cost in stores is low. But even in this case, you should not use them as consumables for single use. After all, updating the drill to the best working condition will not be difficult if the master has the skill or special tools.

There are factory-made machines that are designed for sharpening, but this is a separate expense item, so most often craftsmen create such devices with their own hands.

Most of the problems are caused by drills for metal, and wooden blanks do not quickly reduce the sharpness of the cutting edges.

To make a machine for restoring the sharpness of cutting elements, the necessary control means (template) are used to check the tool.

Typically, tools for ferrous metal, carbide bronze, steel or cast iron - with an edge angle of 115-125 degrees. The length of another material, these parameters are different.

for soft bronze, red copper – 125, for brass alloys – 135;

for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood – 135 degrees;

for magnesium and its alloys – 85 degrees;

for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.

Masters, if necessary, make templates in accordance with the above data. By the way, theoretically, a single drill can be suitable for all these metals and other materials, if you sharpen different working surfaces each time.

An elementary handicraft device that is often used, bushings attached to the base. There are many drawings on the Internet for self-made. It is necessary to take into account that the tool must be well clamped, the accuracy depends on 1 degree.

If desired, you can make a large-sized clip using aluminum or copper tubes relative to the typical characteristics of drills or drill many holes in a soft metal workpiece. It is necessary that the sharpener has a comfortable hand rest to move the device and hold the stop.

This primitive sharpening machine is easy to install on a workbench or table.

A practical example of working with a drawing

The essence of the problem: there are drills, they need to be sharpened.
We will use one of the sharpening methods, close to the factory ones. Too lazy to catch with your hands. Better than the monkey method - set it and you're done. It took approximately 1 hour to manufacture the device according to the finished drawing.

A little welding work according to the template. A corner was made. We put the washer on, it’s just pressed on.

Let's try the first sharpenings, if everything is assembled correctly, we will refine and refine it, make a quick adaptation.

After sharpening the drill, we carry out a test. Two casting chips are visible, which means that sharpening was carried out correctly.

The only drawback is that one chip is longer than the other, which means they missed the length of the edges. It is necessary to make a stop that will regulate the length and ensure symmetry of the edges. To do this, we will make a thrust washer that will be aligned and machined. Or we’ll cut it to make it possible to process shorter drills.

Perhaps everyone professional master uses drills for his work, which must be of high quality and well-functioning. Previously, drills were sharpened by hand, but now special machines for sharpening drills are very popular. The design of such a machine is very simple. To create it you will need simple materials, which are present in almost every home. Let's look together at a step-by-step process for making a drill sharpening machine.

Features of sharpening drills

It is almost impossible to drill surfaces with a dull drill. A sharp drill will solve the situation in a matter of minutes. Therefore, the drills must be sharpened at the desired angle and ready for use. Sharpening angles for different materials cannot be the same. The harder the material, the blunter the angle will be. For example, for plastic, a sharpening angle of 30-60 degrees is suitable, and for hardened steel, 130-140 degrees. If there are no great demands on the quality of drilling, you can choose a sharpening angle of 90-100 degrees.

It is worth noting that sharpening drills can be done manually on abrasive discs or on sharpening machines. During manual sharpening, the drill must be held by working part with your left hand and guide it closer to the cutting part. The right hand should hold the shank. Press the cutting edge of the drill bit against the side of the grinding abrasive wheel. After this, you need to turn the drill with a careful movement of your right hand. In this case, the cutting edges must take the correct inclination and the required shape to the axis.

Sharpen the drill first on one side and then on the other. In this case, it is very important to control the sharpening of the cutting edge so that the tip is in the center. Otherwise, when drilling, the drill will move to the side. Also, do not press too hard on the drill, as this may lengthen the sharpening process. Hand sharpening is not very in a convenient way, as it may lead to some defects. For example, if the cutting edges after sharpening the drill are not equal in length and are inclined at different angles to the drill axis, the middle of the transverse edge will shift from the drill axis and therefore will rotate around the axis when working. Therefore, it is better to use a sharpening machine for sharpening drills for this purpose.

When sharpening, pay attention to the initially specified angle. This is what you should focus on. After this, look at the condition of the tool. If the damage is severe, you can use coarser sandpaper. If they are minor, a fine-grained sanding disc will be enough for you. For weak dullness and completely minor damage A finishing wheel will do. Sharpening the drill must be done sequentially - first process its upper part, carefully pressing it against the plane of the sharpening wheel.

After finishing the back surface, you should have a proper cone when viewed from the side. After this, the cutting part of the drill is processed, and then final finishing. Jumper size at correct processing drill bits should not be larger than 0.4 millimeters for drills that have a diameter of 8 millimeters or less. If the drill is larger, the jumper size should be 1 - 1.5 millimeters. If you have never sharpened drills, we recommend that you practice on other objects. This way you can quickly understand sharpening technology and get better at it.

Features of sharpening machines

The drill sharpening machine is used for sharpening through and blind drills made of steel, cast iron and hard alloys. This equipment can be equipped with different functions depending on the type of sharpening, its size, etc. When working with the machine, the angle can be changed from 90 to 140 degrees. Machines can be household and industrial. Household drill sharpening machines are quite compact and are more suitable for home use. They will be able to sharpen small diameter drills.

Industrial machines are equipped with more power and are designed for sharpening drills that have large diameter. The power is determined by the motor of the device. The drill sharpener has a drill clamp and sharpening wheel that can handle over 2000 tools. The design ensures precise positioning of drill bits so that the operator can control the sharpening process. The machine operates from the mains. Generally, drill sharpeners are durable and easy to use.

It is worth noting that there are universal sharpening machines and specialized ones. The first option can be used for a variety of cutting tools, such as taps, cutters, cutters and countersinks. Specialized machines can process only one type of tool, so they work more accurately. A drill sharpening machine belongs precisely to such machines. Moreover, each option for sharpening drills requires its own machine.

There are seven methods for sharpening drills: single-plane, shaped, compound screw, elliptical, helical, double-plane and conical. On universal machines You can use shaped, single-plane, elliptical and two-plane sharpening. As for other methods, this requires a specialized electric machine for sharpening drills. If the drill has a diameter of more than 3 millimeters, it is necessary to use a machine with an optical device. If the drill has a diameter of less than 1 millimeter, a binocular microscope must be used. To sharpen solid drills, you should use a diamond wheel.

DIY drill sharpening machine

Unfortunately, the product market cannot always offer us what we really need, or the price of drill sharpening machines is too high. In this case, you can make the machine yourself. If you have a little experience working with technology, you can cope with this task very easily.

To do this you will need a toggle switch, a sharpening wheel, a plug, a powerful motor, a stand, some wires and an axle. To comply with the safety regime, it is recommended to place the machine in a housing, and leave only the axis with the grinding wheel, which protrudes slightly, outside. The device will operate from the mains. Moreover, you can connect it to a source and use it as a lightweight and portable machine.

Worry in advance about where your drill sharpening machine will be located. It is recommended to place it on metal table. To do this, you need to place the electric motor on the tabletop using fasteners, and then mark the locations of the holes for the bolts. After this, remove the electric motor and drill four holes. Then install the motor back and secure it using the bolts.

Electric motor homemade machine for sharpening drills, it is equipped with a shaft on which you need to put a granular disk. If the diameter of the shaft matches the diameter of the hole in the disk, you need to put a washer, a disk, then a washer on the shaft again. After this, the fastening nut is installed, and the thread is pre-cut on the shaft. Can be used special nozzle on a circle in which the drill does not swing and sharpens like a pencil. You can make it yourself or buy it in a store.

If the diameter of the shaft is smaller than the diameter of the hole in the stone, a sleeve should be added. A special hole and a hole for a bolt are made in it in order to be able to secure it to the shaft. Then it will not rotate along with the abrasive disc during operation. At the end of the bushing, it is necessary to cut a right-hand thread in the direction of rotation of the disk in order to fix it using washers and nuts. After this, the sleeve is put on the shaft.

If you find it difficult to decide on the choice of electric motor, you can use the option from an old washing machine. This power will be most optimal for sharpening necessary tools. Prepare the starter and wire sections in advance. You can use wires from old equipment. Of course, you can buy new pieces, but it’s cheaper to use improvised tools that are in every home. Therefore, if the old wires are in good condition, they can be safely used.

The wire must be connected to the starter. It is important that the starter has at least three normally open contacts (HP). Its winding must be connected to the phase line through two buttons connected in series. One with H3, which will be the power button, and the second with HP, which will be the power button. This button must be in parallel with a pair of HP contacts of the starter.

If you press the power button, voltage will be applied to the winding and the starter circuits will close, one pair of which will bypass the button. If you release it, the voltage will not be removed from the starter. If we press the shutdown button, we break the power supply circuit of the winding, and the starter releases the contacts, so the engine stops.

The electric motor is safe even with open form, it does not need additional protection, but it is recommended to make a metal box to protect the structure at least from dust. You can make a glass protective screen. This will protect your respiratory tract and eyes from dust from the circle. It is recommended to install a protective cover that should cover the end of the abrasive disc by two-thirds. It can be made from an old car camera. If the sharpening disc breaks, its parts will be in the casing and will not cause harm.

The procedure for sharpening drills on a machine

Most people make their own drill sharpeners. To avoid spending extra money, you can easily build a drill sharpening machine yourself. Moreover, you can make it universal and, if necessary, sharpen any objects on it. When working, you must strictly follow the instructions for the drill sharpening machine and adhere to certain rules.

The drill tip consists of two small shoulders. It is extremely important that they are the same. No need to compare them with high precision measuring instruments, just estimate by eye. But there must be sameness. The place where the shoulders meet is called the center of the hole, the radius of which is determined by the length of the larger shoulder. If they are the same, then the axis of rotation of the drill will coincide with the center of the hole.

If this is not the case, the diameter will be larger than required, and by the amount of the difference between the center point of the curved hole and the axis of the drill. This is the case when the drill breaks the hole. In addition, there is a large load on the tool and hands, which often leads to breakage of the drill. When you sharpen the drill, remember that it must cut the material.

Before starting work, make sure that the rotating grinding disc securely mounted on the workbench. Wearing safety glasses is recommended. High-quality sharpening requires at least half an hour. Be careful and patient - then the tool will be sharpened correctly and will work accordingly. For correct sharpening drill, you must know its type - for metal or wood.

During production, each product is sharpened perfectly, which is very difficult to replicate at home. Different brands of Pobedit differ in the method of producing the alloy and chemical formula. Such nuances cannot be determined by eye, so the name of the material that suits the drill should be written on the packaging. Carefully examine the rotation direction of the drill bit to determine which side needs to be sharpened.

For desktop machine you may need sharpening wheels. They are also called sandpaper, sharpener or abrasive wheel. Always start with a coarser abrasive. When a burr appears along the entire length of the tool, you can switch to a finer abrasive. Select the bars in such a way that each next one can remove small defects from the previous one. Finally, you do the final finishing using the smallest block with a polishing element.

Always maintain the specified sharpening angle. But for this you need to practice a little. Very often the tool blade moves to the side and moves. The sharpening disc should only rotate in the direction away from the blade. Otherwise, there is a risk of improper sharpening and serious injury.

Please note that drills cannot withstand overheating. The fact is that during the sharpening process, carbide plates sometimes crack and fall off. But this can be avoided. Try not to let the drill get too hot on the sharpening stone. Cool the drill regularly with water. But if the drill is already red hot, do not dip it in the liquid! Because of this, the plates can instantly crack. Let the product cool slightly on its own.

All twist drills have two cutting edges and flanks that make the tip of the drill tapered. But if you take a washer with a smaller diameter than the drill and mount it into the hole of the washer, you will be able to see that the cutting edges of the drill touch the washers. In this case, the rear part of the surface lags behind the cutting edges.

When sharpening drills on a machine with your own hands, pay attention to compliance with safety regulations. Remember that the work involves sharp blades that can easily cause injury. We hope that our simple instructions will help you understand sharpening technology and build quality device with my own hands. We wish you success!

Or a workshop makes work much easier and allows you to enjoy working with it. The same applies to drills. But even the most expensive of them become dull or break over time. But not everyone, especially novice craftsmen, have the skill to properly sharpen drills, and constantly buying new ones is quite expensive. For such cases, you can assemble a special device for sharpening them. This machine is quite simple, but can still greatly facilitate this process.

It is especially convenient for working with small diameters, since they are the most difficult to sharpen.

The machine consists of a sharpening machine and a device for attaching a drill.

Its operating principle is as follows: The drill is rigidly fixed to the helical part in a special vise. Their angle in relation to the whetstone is set using a square; for metal drills it is 60 degrees. Thus, one of the edges is sharpened, then the device is turned over and the other edge is sharpened.

Difference of this project from many of those posted on the Internet, according to the author, is the use of these same jewelry vises as a retainer. They are commercially available and cost little.

Here's what they look like:

The principle of their operation is the same as that of ordinary yews: the handle rotates in one direction - the jaws unclench, rotates in the opposite direction - the jaws are clamped, you can fix the workpiece or part.

To use them in the machine you need to modify them a little. The original rivets are removed, these homemade plates are installed and riveted again.

When clamping the drill, the cutting edges should be parallel to the jaws.

Next, four holes are drilled in the newly attached plates, equidistant from their center. They should be located at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the drill clamped in the vise.

Later, alternately (for each face) an axis will pass through these two holes, which will fix the entire system. The result will be a “swing” effect. Much attention You should pay attention to marking the holes, since the quality of sharpening the drills depends on their location.

The supports of this “swing” in this case are two buildings from under gutted door locks, but they can be made from scratch by cutting racks from metal or wood.

They are rigidly attached to wooden platform.
Four screws are screwed in at its four edges to adjust the desired height.

It would be best to place the sharpener and rocker on the same panel.

The vices are installed between the posts and hung on the axle.

The device is installed at the desired angle (60 degrees) to the surface of the circle and one of the edges is sharpened.

We turn the vise 180 degrees, the axis is threaded through the opposite holes, and the other edge is sharpened.

The finished result turned out quite well, considering (according to the author) the great wear of the old vise. The photo shows a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm.