Grafting roses onto rose hips in the fall. Grafting roses: how to graft a rose onto a rose hip. Spring and summer grafting technology

Growing rose hips

Reproduction of roses, like other plants, is carried out sexually or asexually (vegetatively) in several ways. The main method of propagating roses in a nursery is budding.

In most cases, to obtain rosehip rootstocks, seeds of a common species - the canina rose - R. canina are used. A good or completely benign rosehip intended for rootstock production must have the following properties.

It must be completely winter-hardy in the area for which it is prescribed, drought-resistant where required, and completely immune to fungal diseases.
It should produce shoots or branches that are, if possible, devoid of thorns or have the latter to a minimal extent, and when grown into trunks, form the latter in the shortest possible time. In other words, it must have the fastest and strongest growth possible, combining this property with maximum frost resistance.
It should have as smooth and straight a root collar as possible, which greatly facilitates the production of grafting and especially budding when obtaining bush, i.e., low-grafted roses.

Some authors have also expressed an insistent wish that the ideal rosehip, when sown in the fall or with timely stratification, sprouts in the first spring, and not in the second, and does not have to keep the seeds sanded or surrounded by moist soil for two winters and one summer between them, as is the case is now being practiced. However, in the author’s opinion, this nature of seed germination and similar germination in the second spring are generally characteristic of many tree and shrub species by nature, and it is unlikely that it will be easy to change this property of rosehip seeds at our request.

There is, however, a statement that if the seeds, or, more precisely, rose hips to obtain seeds, are collected not in the fall, when the fruits have already turned red, but at the end of summer, precisely at the moment when they just begin to turn red and when the woody shells of their seeds have not yet completely hardened, then such seeds will sprout when sown in the fall next spring, and not in a year.

Such statements, however, require thorough verification. According to the author, it is much more expedient to simply collect the next annual collection of rosehip seeds, immediately stratify them and sand them in a box, not allowing the seeds and the surrounding sand to dry out, keep them moist until the fall, when they are sown on seed beds, where seedlings will certainly will appear in sufficient abundance next spring. From the above, by the way, it follows that in our rose culture in Russia it is necessary to acquire or plant mother-seed plantings of rose hips in order to collect and obtain seeds for rootstocks that would produce rose hips that have all of the above desired properties. It’s not so difficult to do this, you just have to want it. Not much space will be required to plant such a mother-seed rosehip plantation, and our flower farms will have to do this over time. But for this it is necessary, first of all, to find raw material, i.e., an ideal rose hip with the above-described qualities - rose canina. If desired, this is also possible in the north.

Of course, it cannot be considered normal in any way that for sowing and obtaining rosehip rootstocks: - canina in the north, for example, in Leningrad region, you have to take rosehip seeds from the south, where there is a lot of it, for example, from the Northern areas. Caucasus, not to mention the fact that in this case we do not know at all what seeds we are getting and what qualities the rootstocks obtained in this way will have. It would be a completely different matter if we had at our disposal everywhere, especially in the north, rose hip plantations with the required qualities and properties.

Rosehip seeds obtained in winter must, as already mentioned, be sanded (stratified). Stratification consists of taking 1 volume part of seeds to 3 parts of wet sand, then sand and seeds are mixed well and evenly.

The seeds sanded in this way are placed in a cool place. It is advisable to bury the seeds in the snow until spring. It is necessary that the seeds do not dry out, and therefore in the spring, when the snow melts, the dishes with the seeds are not buried deeply in the still damp soil so that the seeds remain moist all the time.

It is unacceptable to sow rosehip seeds without stratification to obtain rootstocks in the first spring, since the seeds will not germinate then and there will be no seedlings until next spring. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the seeds are sown on seed beds. In this case, the sowing is done relatively densely, keeping in mind the subsequent green picking and the fact that the seeds with such somewhat dense sowing will better or more easily lift the layer of earth above them when they emerge. The author generally does not admit at all to obtaining seedlings or rosehip rootstocks without green picks. In fact, what is the point of getting rosehip seedlings with poor roots or a single root going deep, when at relatively low costs (for green picking) you can get first-rate rosehip seedlings with good branched fibrous roots.

We call green picking the transplantation of newly emerged small green seedlings onto picking ridges, which have managed to develop, in addition to the cotyledons, only one or two leaves. The sooner such a seedling is picked, the better.

During the green picking made in spring, the tip of the root is shortened, which causes the root to develop branches, forming a fibrous root system. At the same time, seedlings planted during green picking at an equal distance from each other receive sufficient area for development.

Careful, timely preparation of the soil for picking ridges, as well as the application organic fertilizers, are absolutely necessary.

The beds for pricked rosehip seedlings are prepared as is generally customary in the area. On ridges, seedlings are planted not in longitudinal, but in transverse rows, row from row at a distance of 20 cm, and seedling from seedling in rows at a distance of at least 5 cm. Watering is required only the first time. Rosehip seedlings usually tolerate replanting or green picking well.

Maintenance during the summer consists of loosening the surface of the ridges and removing weeds, and, if necessary, watering. The ridges remain in this form until the spring of the following summer and autumn, when the same care for the seedlings is applied as in the first year. In the autumn of the second year, the seedlings grown on the ridge will be two years old, and then they usually must be dug up and sorted in the fall, and, if necessary, sent to another place in proper packaging.

Rosehip seedlings are usually not left on the ridge for more than two years, and this is usually not necessary, because by the autumn of the second year, even in the north, these seedlings reach such a size that it is impossible to leave them longer on the ridges, but give them when picking or planting on the ridge there are large ones against the shown distance there is no calculation. Here in St. Petersburg, on nutritious soil, we always get fairly good two-year-old wild rose hips, some of which can be used for grafting into the neck in winter, and some for summer budding.

Two-year-old seedlings dug out of the ridges in the fall are sorted by size and vigor into three grades: first, second and third. Weaker specimens can be planted again in the ridges until they reach a size sufficient for improvement. Most strong plants are selected, if there is a need, to obtain standards. For this purpose, selected specimens are planted in a special quarter, and the greater the distance between seedlings in this quarter, the better. But since you usually have to save space, it is clear that too large distances between individual bushes are not acceptable here either.

To obtain strong trunks from rose hips after planting, no cutting or removal of branches should be done; on the contrary, the more of the latter remain and the stronger the bush, the better. The longer the rosehip bush sits in one place, the stronger, thicker, and most importantly, higher the annual shoots - future trunks - can be obtained. On average, to obtain standard shoots, a rosehip bush must remain in one place after transplantation for three years. But, in general, this period greatly depends on local conditions.

When the rosehip bushes grow shoots strong enough for trunks by autumn, only one strongest shoot is left on the roots of the bush; all the rest are removed.

Speaking about standard rose hips, it should be said here that in St. Petersburg it has long been customary to use rose hips with 3-4 branches or shoots coming from the root for rootstocks, grafting them in winter in a greenhouse at a height of 20-25 cm. To obtain such branched or several stemmed rootstocks, it is better Just plant annual canina and after two years you can expect the desired result on good soil.

I had to observe that rosehip seedlings are sometimes affected by linen in the first year. This must always be kept in mind when growing rose hips on rootstocks and, just in case, have in stock means to combat linen and other diseases and pests.

As for the choice of rosehip variety - canina - for the rootstock, it should be noted that in Russia, if you wish, you can find quite a lot of different forms of rosehip suitable for this purpose, including those that are quite frost-resistant in the north.

For his part, the author considers the red-leaved rosehip - R. rubrifolia - to be the most worthy of our attention as a rootstock. This rosehip gives in St. Petersburg strong bushes and tall boles, and its frost resistance is complete here. This species is attributed to being susceptible to rust, as indicated, by the way, by R.I. Shredder. But at the same time, the same R.I. Schroeder considered the species R. rubrifolia to be an excellent rootstock for grafting roses.

This may be explained by the fact that in the north there is generally less rust, which, however, cannot be said about more southern areas.

Prof. I.I. Kichunov

Types of rose grafting, their purpose, advantages and disadvantages compared to other types of propagation

Most modern varieties and hybrids of roses are propagated by grafting. This process combines general condition– preliminary cultivation of the rootstock. The material for grafting is the variety that is planned to be propagated. Methods of vaccination are divided:

For copulation- merging of shoots of rootstock and scion,
Budding- propagation of plants by buds, otherwise they say with an eye. The essence of the process is the engraftment of a bud, cut from a varietal shoot, onto the rootstock.

The main method of propagating roses, budding, is used in two ways:

Kidney vaccination into the root collar of the rootstock,
Engraftment peephole to escape rootstock

In both cases, the work requires jewelry precision, and therefore appropriate skill. In that its disadvantage. But the number of grafted plants is much greater than, for example, propagation by cuttings. You can cut off all the mature buds from one varietal shoot. When the grafting takes root, the variety receives a powerful root system of the rootstock. Compared to own-rooted (cuttings) roses, grafted varieties are much stronger and more resistant to unfavorable conditions, diseases and pests.

Tip #1. Beginning rose growers should not be afraid to do budding themselves. You need to practice on “wild” roses in advance. Perhaps not everything will work out the first time, but sometimes there is a first time for everything!

Optimal timing of vaccination, pros and cons of carrying out work in spring, summer, autumn

Before you get started, it’s worth analyzing all the pros and cons when choosing a propagation method and time of year.

There is a suitable grafting method for each season

Usually, There are no vaccinations in the fall. During this growing season, all physiological processes of plants slow down, preparation for winter occurs, which means that all nutrients accumulate in the root system. This is why the vaccination is unlikely to take root.

Preparing the rootstock for budding.Peculiarities of cutting a bud for budding.Sequence of vaccination

Option 1. Grafting a varietal rose bud into the root collar of a rose hip.

To successfully graft into the root collar, you need to properly prepare the bush intended for the rootstock.

Before work, the rose hips are watered abundantly 2 days before work. For each bush you will need 2 - 3 buckets of water. This is necessary to replenish moisture reserves in plant tissues, which improves the separation of bark from wood.
Immediately before budding, the root collar is dug up and carefully freed from the soil on all sides. All side branches that interfere with budding are cut to a height of 10–15 cm above the ground in order to freely make winding.
The vaccination site is carefully wiped soft cloth. The “surgical field” must be clean so that foreign particles do not enter the wound, otherwise healing will not occur. Moreover, an infection can penetrate into the cut, which is dangerous for the plant. To prevent this from happening, tools and hands are wiped with alcohol or heteroauxin for disinfection before work.

When the fusion point is ready, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar with a sharp budding knife.

By this time, the kidney scheduled for budding has already been selected. When the rootstock is prepared, the scion must be quickly but carefully cut and inserted into the folded edges of the bark on the root collar of the rootstock.

It is important to take into account a number of features of the grafting material:

The bud must be mature; it is taken from a young one-year-old shoot.
You need to cut the eye correctly. If the cut is too deep, white fibrous tissue will appear on the scion along with the bark, which makes engraftment difficult. When the cut passes close to the bud, it is partially damaged and therefore will not grow to the rootstock.
Before cutting the eye, a leaf stalk 1–2 cm long is left above the bud. It is needed to transfer the bud to the rootstock and secure it in the cut. All leaf blades deleted.

Tip #2.Note! While working on grafting, do not touch the cut parts of the scion and rootstock with your hands.

Option 2. Grafting a bud into a shoot.

Just as when budding into the root collar, the rose hip bush is generously watered two days before grafting. Do the same with roses.
The thorns on the rootstock are removed at the site of future grafting.
A T-shaped or U-shaped cut is made on the rootstock using a budding knife.
On a varietal rose, cut off an eye with a stem.
They are transferred to the rootstock, on which the edges of the incision are folded back and a bud is inserted into it, holding it by the stalk.
The graft is wrapped, leaving the bud and cutting on top.

Step-by-step instructions for grafting a varietal rose with an eye onto a rosehip shoot

Step 1	Water the rose hips 2 - 3 days before grafting.
Step 2	On the rootstock shoot, break off the thorns at the grafting site.
Step3	Select a bud for budding and shorten the leaf stalk above it, leaving 1 - 2 cm. After this, cut off the bud with bark measuring 2.5 - 3 cm. The bark from the bud evenly extends in both directions, about 1 cm.

Step4	Holding the bud by the stalk with one hand, make a T-shaped cut on the shoot of the rootstock with the other. They trim the bark, as if opening the doors, so that a pocket is formed. A bud with bark is inserted into it.
Tip #3.When placing a peephole into a rootstock cut, it is important to place it right side, in the direction in which it grew on its “native” branch.The stalk should “look” upIf the bud is turned down (along the growth of the shoot), it will not take root.
Step5	On the rootstock, the edges of the bark cover the bud, pressing it tightly against the shoot.
Step6	Wrap it with grafting tape so that the bud and stalk are visible from the outside. At the same time, it is important not to move the eye from its place and make sure that the vaccine does not get infected. To do this, work is carried out as quickly as possible.

When the budding takes root, the cutting dries out and falls off, and the bud begins to grow. At this time, it is important to monitor the survival rate, since there is no complete guarantee that the young shoot that has begun to grow will not fade. To prevent this from happening, you need to take proper care of the vaccine.

Secrets of caring for a grafted rose during the period of establishment of the eye

The survival rate of the vaccine increases if:

Work should be carried out in the morning. In hot or rainy weather, it is better not to vaccinate, but to wait until the weather is favorable.
At hot temperatures, shade the grafted bud, protecting it from burns.

After 18–25 days, survival rate is checked. To do this, carefully separate the stalk from the bud. If the fusion is successful, the “tail” will easily fall off. By this time, the established bud should be alive and not dried out.

After this, the winding is removed.

Next spring, when the bud sprouts, the shoot of the rootstock is cut off. This is necessary so that nutrients are transported to the grafted shoot.

Differences in grafting for different types of roses

As for the types of roses, then hybrid tea and floribunda They are almost always propagated only by grafting, and budding into the root collar is more often used. Grafting with an eye into rosehip shoots is often difficult due to the large number of thorns on the dog rose (Rosa canina).

Category: “Questions and answers”

Question No. 1. How to determine that the time for summer grafting of roses has already arrived?

Question No. 2. What to do if there is no grafting knife?

Many gardeners successfully use construction knives with blades that break off as they become dull.

Question No. 3. What cuttings can be grafted?

For grafting, one-year shoots are cut, 0.5 - 0.8 cm thick. It is important that the scion on the cut matches the size of the rootstock as much as possible. A perfect match is difficult to achieve. Therefore, you need to try to ensure that the cuttings align with the cambium on at least one side.

Question number 4. How many eyes can be planted on one shoot?

Usually the grafting is done in the internodes. Therefore, as many buds are grafted as will fit in each interval between the leaves, excluding the upper, thin part of the shoot. It is advisable not to place eyes with south side rootstock, and maintain 15 - 20 cm between them. The lowest graft is located 25 - 30 cm from the ground.

Question No. 5. Is it possible to take buds for grafting from roses in bouquets?

Theoretically, it is possible. But for the bud to take root, it must be mature, the shoots must be fresh, and they should not be kept in water for a long time. Another condition is that the roses in the bouquet must be cut from a grafted bush.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when grafting roses onto rose hips

Vaccinate by bud in rainy weather.

If moisture gets into the open cut, the graft will not take root.

Choice for budding immature buds.

The best buds for grafting are located in the middle part of the shoot. But they do not always meet the requirements of budding. Before cutting off the eye, you need to make sure that it is mature, dense, without damage or disease.

Selection of grafting material from bushes infected with fungal diseases or pests.

Such shoots or buds will not take root. But if fusion does occur, the infection will spread to the rootstock. Most likely, such a vaccine will die.

It is fashionable to get a wealth of information about roses, but about propagation, so that it is more detailed and detailed, actually used in practice, there are few places where you can find it. Basically, you can find such methods of breeding “princesses” as: cuttings, seeds and layering. The question arises, what about such a method as vaccination? Is he really not capable? to the common man, a fan of these “beautiful flowers”? And indeed, according to many experts, propagating roses by grafting onto rose hips is not so easy at first, but with a little practice, in my opinion, everyone can get a seedling. Why does this view of specialists prevail? The fact is that it takes 2 years to get a full-fledged rose bush by this method. The main key to the success of grafting or budding on rose hips is to be patient, do everything step by step, adhere to maximum purity and do not rush to be disappointed at the first unsuccessful attempt.

Actually itself name "vaccination" is interpreted as the artificial merging of two plants of a similar species, that is, one type (cutting, eye) takes root with another, wild species (rose hips). In some publications you can find another name for rose grafting, namely budding, which consists of propagating rose seedlings with an eye on the root collar of a rose hip. In general, grafting is an artificial means of vegetative propagation, where 2 plants of different species are fused.

The required components and stages of grafting roses onto rose hips are:

young (preferably one-year-old, two-year-old is also possible) rootstock - rosehip, trimmed with pruning shears, garden shears or just sharp knife and prepared for budding;
cuttings cut from the middle part of the stem, from which shields and eyes are cut out;
raking out the soil and cleaning the root collar from dirt, dust, and small roots;
budding knife or modern know-how - grafting pruners;
an incision on the root collar of the rose hip or on a one-year-old stem, closer to the roots;
inserting the shield using a budding knife;
special tape for grafting or self-cut strips of film (about 20-30 cm long and at least 1-1.5 cm wide), but not electrical tape (since dirt will stick to it) for tying the grafting site;
garden varnish for lubricating cuts;
pruning the grafted cultural part by eye next spring;
correct formation of a grafted rose bush.

Reproduction by grafting or budding of roses is slightly easier than those propagated by cuttings. If you follow all the steps presented above, the shields will take root by 95%. Using this method you can obtain the following varieties of roses: hybrid tea, climbing, standard, park, ground cover, miniature, English roses, floribunda, grandiflora, scrub, spray roses and border roses or patio . The essence of this type of propagation is that a rosehip with a strong root system is taken as a rootstock, into the root collar of which the cultural part (eye, scutellum) of the rose is implanted.

Root collar- this is the place where the stem meets the root and is light brown in color. It should be without sprouts, tall, and the bark should be easy to fall behind for a long time (so that everything can be done in time), and grow together well. You can also graft roses into the stem, close to the roots.

So, to graft roses onto rose hips, you need two elements: a scion (cuttings with or without buds) and a rootstock (healthy, young rose hips). Rosehip - the rootstock forms the root system of the seedling, and the scion - the scute - forms the aerial part. Those bushes of “queens” in which it was possible to achieve close contact with the tissues of the two elements take root better.

When can roses be grafted onto rose hips?

Optimal timing This operation is carried out in summer and spring, but it is also possible to carry out such breeding of rose seedlings in winter. Thus, the graft is suitable for almost all seasons. If we talk about the best periods, then they correspond to periods of intense sap flow, and this means a slight lag of the rootstock bark when cutting. During the growing season, there are 2 periods of sap flow of the rootstock - spring, before buds open, as well as mid-summer and its end, the period of the second wave of branch growth. If, when making a cut, you notice that the bark does not come off well, it is advisable to wait a little longer. These stages are the end of July (13-25th) and the whole of August. So, summer grafting is easy to carry out, since the second sap flow of roses occurs and, as a rule, there are a considerable number of cuttings available, and the root neck of the rootstock reaches the appropriate size - 6-9 mm and the buds are well formed. Summer sap flow is called downward because part of the substances that are present in the stems and leaves is directed down the bark and deposited in the roots. Summer grafting of roses onto rose hips is called dormant eye budding, so that after this procedure the bud does not grow, but “sleeps” until spring. In the fall, it is not worth budding these flowers, because, firstly, the flow of sap through the plant is completed as it prepares for winter, and secondly, there is a possibility of freezing of the oculant (grafted shield) during this period. Budding of roses in summer is done using a “sleeping eye”. Winter grafting of these beauties is more difficult to carry out due to the cold, but it is possible if the rose hips were prepared in advance (dug up and planted in a box) and cuttings were selected when pruning the bushes before sheltering for the winter.

During the winter season, there is no movement of sap through the seedling, and therefore growth is delayed a couple of days longer, but the plant will be expanded than the one that was grafted in the spring. Spring grafting of roses onto rose hips is also quite popular since the first sap flow of rose bushes and their rapid development occur. You can find out more about grafting roses onto rose hips in the spring. In this article.

Which rose hips are suitable for grafting roses?

The more correctly the rosehip rootstock is selected, the better the quality of the grafted rose. Rosehip is the basis of the plant; it determines how long the future bush will serve you, how it will develop and grow. It must have the following features: disease resistance, good growth, hard, flexible wood with a small core, frost and drought resistance, deep branched root system, resistance to excess moisture, long smooth root collar, long growing season, abundant fruiting and simultaneous seed ripening, limited number of thorns so that it bends easily. Its main function is to ensure the duration of the grafted units. Roses grafted to the root collar of the rose hips are strong and healthy from the first year, and therefore germinate faster, like those from cuttings. In addition, they have increased winter hardiness, drought resistance, bloom profusely in the first year of planting, and have a larger bush and flower size. For grafting, a rose hip is taken, the thickness of the root collar of which is 8-10 cm; if it is thinner, it is planted for growing in 15 cm rows with 1 m row spacing. It is recommended as a rootstock in our climate, in Russia ( middle lane), and also for the northern regions, more often use dog rose (Rosa Canina), as well as multiflora (Rosa Multiflora), corymbifera (Rosa Corymbifera), some lovers use wrinkled rose hips. Dog rose is quite common and has obvious advantages over other species: it is quite winter-hardy and has a powerful root system, is resistant to diseases and pests, produces little growth, grows well with all varieties of roses, promoting their lush flowering.

You can also use vigorous forms of rose hips (Rosa rugosa) in pinching roses, but the output bushes tend to serve you for a short period of time. Also used as a rootstock wild forms rose hips: rust rose - resistant to diseases, but the root system is superficial, multiflora rose - moderately winter-hardy, but lasts less, rugosa rose - has a good root collar, but produces an excessive amount of shoots, laksa rose - quite resistant to frost, used in northern regions etc. Wild species rose hips are still inferior to canina rose, despite a number of advantages. Cinnamon rose (Rosa cinnamomea) and rubiginosa rose (Rosa rubiginosa) are not suitable for rootstocks, since they have a significant amount of shoots, branches are densely covered with thorns and have moderate growth. Recently divorced special types dog rose hips (about 20 pcs.) for grafting: Rosa canina Inermis, Rosa canina Pollmeriana, Rosa canina Shmid`s Ideal, Rosa canina Pfander, Heinsohns Record. The younger the rose hip bush, the better the variety takes root. Remember that the same variety has different development on different rootstocks. For example, if you take miniature, polyanthus and border roses, then Rosa Canina will not be suitable for them, since they branch heavily on it, thanks to the good rosehip root system. In the future, after annual heavy pruning in these species, depletion of the roots of the rootstock will be observed and, thus, their death and death of the rose bush. So for low-growing varieties A rusty rose is suitable, which has a weaker root system than the canina rose, is winter-hardy, has a smooth root collar without thorns and long-term sap flow, has good disease resistance and unsurpassed compatibility with most varieties of roses. Nowadays, a lot of seedlings are imported grafted onto the multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora), which is more likely to be cultivated, but it is less winter-hardy. In a one-year-old rootstock seedling, the stems have almost no branches and are green or red-brown in color, while two-year-old ones are rough, gray in color with many side shoots. Remember that the use of wild varieties of rose hips can lead to rejection of the grafted cultivated part of the rose within 2-4 years. This means that a well-developed bush will begin to wither without reason after some time, while wild growth will continue to grow. You can grow rose hips yourself, or you can buy them at a nursery. In order to grow the rootstock yourself, you need to collect its fruits in the second half of August, when they acquire a bright red color. It is then that their shell is soft and therefore it is easier to get the seeds. Then there are two ways of planting: either rinse with water, mix with sand and bring it into the basement or cellar to keep until autumn, or immediately sow it into the ground with the remains of the fruit, and in the spring the first shoots will appear. You can find out more about breeding rosehip rootstock In this article . The germination rate of cuttings on a scion ranges from 15-30 days and up to a maximum of one month. However, rose seedlings propagated by grafting also have disadvantages. They develop wild growth; if the upper branches freeze, the cultivated part is not preserved, since rose hips will begin to grow from the root collar.

Summer grafting of roses onto rose hips

From the above, it is clear that it is better to start grafting roses in the second half of July and August, and complete them in September. We have rose hips in stock, but they contain many thorny branches and, in addition, are also densely planted. What to do in this case, you ask? And you really can’t put your hand in there, much less perform any operations with it. To do this, 1-2 weeks before budding, shorten the rootstock low from the ground using pruners, a sharp knife or ordinary garden shears. Approximately the height of the stem should be 5-10 cm. First, we leave 1-2 shortened stems on the rosehip, and remove the remaining shoots. After which we drain the bushes well. If you moisten the soil well (at least 30 cm), you can improve sap flow. If you did not have time to water the bushes, especially when there was still a drought, you will feel how difficult it will be to work with the seedlings. 3 days before grafting are enough for the shoots to fill with water. We use shoots of varietal roses that have already bloomed as cuttings. It is advisable to prepare them immediately before grafting, cutting off all the leaves and leaving only the tails, but they can be stored for a month in the refrigerator or basement (the air temperature should be from +2 to +5), wrapped in a damp cloth and plastic wrap. In order not to confuse the top and bottom of the cuttings, you need to make the top cut straight and the other oblique. It should be noted that storing rose cuttings in a cold room for more than 2 weeks leads to the leaves falling off, and this makes it difficult to place the shield in the cut. If they are a little dry, you need to moisten them with water and keep them there for a while. Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the stem, as they are more viable, 4-6 mm thick. If the cutting has not bloomed and is less than 4 mm thick, do not take it, as it will produce weak bushes. Then a shield is cut out of these cuttings, which can have a different shape and is about 2 cm long. To do this, use a sharp knife from bottom to top to cut a piece under the bud, holding the tail of the leaf (without it, budding will be difficult as there will be nothing to hold it by ) .

So, for successful summer grafting of roses on rose hips must be observed following conditions:

rootstock - rose hips are 2-3 years old, the bark is mature, easily comes off when cut, and its root collar is 8-10 cm thick;
the stems that are taken on the shield, the eye must be mature, that is, when bent, the thorns break and easily fall off;
the grafting is done with dormant buds (i.e. those that do not produce flowers in the same year), while the bushes have completed their first wave of flowering;
the peephole (scutellum) is taken from the middle part of the stem;
branches are pruned in the morning or after draining with water so that they have enough moisture, and thus juice;
keep cut cuttings in moisture until budding begins;
grafting of roses onto rose hips is carried out on the same day when the shoots are cut;
There is no need to carry out budding in wet weather as much as you need to maintain cleanliness.

In most cases, flight grafting of roses onto rose hips is carried out using methods such as a T-shaped incision, under the “bark”. The T-shaped cut, according to experts, prevents the development of pathogens and helps best stock juice Summer grafting of roses, unlike spring grafting, also has many advantages:

long duration (end of July - first ten days of September);
a sufficient amount of planting material;
the downward movement of the sap helps the oculants take root faster.

The disadvantage of summer budding is that the grafted bush may not have time to become sufficiently strong by winter and die, but with normal shelter this can be avoided. Also, excessive heat can lead to the death of oculants, while cool weather prevails during spring grafting.

In general, if we talk about grafting roses onto rosehips, there are several main methods, namely:

in a “T-shaped” cut;
in "butt";
simple copulation, improved copulation;
grafting roses “by the bark”;
grafting roses into “clefts”.

Rose grafting site

Now let's talk about the place of grafting of roses. It can also be different depending on the budding method. In the first type of propagation of “queen roses” (in a “T-shaped” cut), the grafting is done where the root collar is located (it starts from the place where the green branches end). In the method of grafting roses into the “butt”, this place is the trunk of the rosehip rootstock, in which an incision is made. For simple copulation, improved copulation, budding is also done into the stem of the rootstock. With the last two methods, the grafting site is the bark of the rose hip shoot (“behind the bark”) and a cut in the middle of the rootstock stem (“split”).

Let's look at the methods of growing roses in more detail. First, let's take the most used one, namely grafting roses into a “T-shaped” incision.

Method of grafting roses into a T-shaped incision

The eye (bud in the leaf axils), taken from prepared cuttings, must be cut with a small amount of wood or without it using a budding knife: at a distance of 7-8 mm from the bud and cut down and leave 10-12 mm under it. You will ask how to do this in more detail. First, we make a cross-section above the bud, which goes deeper smoothly downwards, capturing the bark and a small part of the wood. It is not advisable to cut off a panel with a thick layer of wood. In order to do this correctly, it is worth a little practice, for example, on rosehip shoots. It is necessary that the tool is sharp enough so that in one movement, without deepening too much, it will grab a little of the wood and the cambium layer. Wood is easily removed from a mature cutting, but this must be done carefully, otherwise the rose bud may be damaged. Some experts do not advise cutting the shield without wood, but from my practice, I can confidently say that this does not play a significant role. The cut should be oblique (from the bud), smooth, 3-4 cm long, and the bark intact. It is performed with a sharp instrument, otherwise the plant tissue wrinkles and the bark lags behind, rising. Usually in summer, plants are selected whose shoots current year blossomed or faded. From them, cuttings are cut from the middle part of the stem, since there the eyes are growth, and the upper ones are flower. The buds are ready for grafting onto the rootstock and are checked by the condition of the thorns. If they break off easily without dragging bark fibers with them, then they are ripe for this procedure and vice versa. A thin layer of wood will be visible if you see the vascular bundle of the kidney. If you notice that the cut is one color, then you only cut off the bark, without capturing the wood. During work, you must keep your tools clean, and planting material(cuttings) should be kept moist, protected from direct contact sun rays, for example, on a tray covered with something. If there was a lot of rain before starting work, you need to delay grafting until the ground has dried out a little, otherwise it will be difficult to complete it.

It is better to graft roses onto rose hips in the morning or evening, when there is at least some coolness. If a significant amount of dew falls and after rain, dirt can be brought into the budding site, thereby reducing the likelihood of survival.

In the root collar (the part where the stem meets the root, Brown), pre-wiped with a damp cloth to remove dirt and remove excess small roots, make a cut similar to the letter T, but it is better not to do it with sunny side rose seedling. This incision is made as follows: a transverse cut of the bark is made on the surface of the cervix, and then a longitudinal cut is made perpendicularly (about 2 cm). Then a peephole or shield is grafted in there, which is generally 2-3 cm, tilting the edges of the cut to the left and right with the bone of a budding knife slightly (light wood covered with sap will be visible there), and not with the end of the blade, so as not to injure the plant tissue and prevent oxidation naked cambium. And they press the shield tightly against the rosehip with their finger, holding it by the petiole, wrapping it in a binding and leaving it open. Thus, we have two hands involved: one holds the shield, and the other uses a knife to help insert it.

It is recommended, in the case of a larger shield inserted into a T-shaped cut, to carefully trim it so that it fits more tightly to the rootstock. Typically this is top part the eye, which is cut along the line of intersection of the bark. Why can't you unroll the edges with your fingers? Firstly, they contain a considerable number of microbes, and secondly, they can be destroyed at the end of the cut. The binding can be a durable polyethylene film cut independently or special budding strips, as well as a washcloth or elastic strip, 1-1.5 cm wide and 15-30 cm long in the direction of film stretching. They are applied from top to bottom, bypassing the bud and secured below, under the graft, tightened into one simple knot (we thread one end through a loop opposite the stem). If you cut the strips incorrectly, when pressed they will tear rather than stretch. Electrical tape is not suitable for dressing the graft as it contains a sticky part to which dirt sticks. The bandage can be loosened or replaced. This is especially true for strips that cut into the stem tissue. A rootstock with a strong and thick root collar can be completely covered with callus and drown out the eye. When the rose hips are weak and cold weather still prevails, then it is worth not removing the bandage until spring.

After budding, the bush is again wrapped in damp soil, but it is important that the eye or tip of the shield that was wrapped is visible, otherwise the operation will not succeed. If drought generally prevails after grafting, it is necessary to water the seedlings so that the cambial layer of the scutellum receives moisture in the cells. After about 3-4 weeks, the implanted eye is checked and the bandage is removed. In order to determine whether everything has grown together, look at the bud, which has not changed color but remains green (it will enlarge and swell). You will also notice a slight falling off of the petiole when touched lightly. If the bud darkens or wrinkles, and the leaf petiole falls off, then this is the first sign of an unsuccessful attempt. You can repeat grafting the rose eye onto the rootstock again, but this time from the other side, when you see that the sap flow is still continuing. For the winter, the grafted rosehip is covered before the cold weather arrives, pressing the soil to a height of up to 25 cm. When spring comes, usually in late April - early May, the occulant is unrolled from the soil and the binding is removed. It was at this time that the seedling managed to get stronger for new operations. By spring, the roots are saturated with energy, conducting it through the trunk, and the branches branch from above. The rose occulant is cut 0.5 - 1.5 cm above the grafted bud, when there is no threat of spring frosts, and left for growing, enveloping the ground around it 10 cm in height. If you cut off the bud immediately after grafting, it will begin to sprout (fatty stems will appear), which will not ripen by winter and, therefore, will freeze. The same thing can be observed when we prune the shoots of grafted roses in early spring. A shoot will start from the trimmed central bud in about 2 weeks; it is pinched (clothespin), that is, the first buds are torn off from it, until a branched bush with several stems is formed. What is quite significant in this case is not the length of the cultivated shoot in the spring, but the number of leaves that grow on it. Trimming begins after 7-8 leaves. If everything is left in place, the grafted rose bush will be weak, since the lateral stems will form in the upper axils of the leaves, and additional branches from the grafting site, that is, from the rose hips, will not develop at all and will only wake up at the end of August. Don't forget about removing wild growth from rose bushes in spring and summer. Each trimming is carried out with a sharp pruning shears, and you can grab part of the film, otherwise it is better to unwind it. The cut stem will begin to “bleed”, that is, sap will be released from it, but it will soon stop, so there is no need to worry about this. It is advisable to cover the cut with garden varnish so that the wound heals faster. A rose bush is called a full-fledged graft if by the end of summer there are two or more shoots growing from one place, the size of a pencil. Remember that by cutting the oculant “by eye”, you help direct the growth force of the rosehip (roots) into the development of the grafted shield. After the first clothespin from the sinuses upper leaves stems will sprout (they are also called second-order shoots). Even you will be able to observe the further growth of dormant buds in the lower axils of the leaves (or scale-like), that is, 1-2 additional strong stems will appear on the shield. In the case of one stem sprouting from a bud, you need to pin or tweezing again, which consists of re-cutting the top of the stem until it reaches a height of 7-10 cm. Side branches will immediately develop. If one shoot from these branches dominates, then it more sizes its brothers, then it is pinched, thus promoting the development of weak shoots. Basically, after one tweezing it is enough for a good formation of the bush, but if it so happens that only one stem develops, do not skimp on plucking the top again, otherwise the rose bush will not serve you for long. In just 30-40 days, the rose seedling will bloom. It should be pointed out that even one variety of rose has a different degree of germination of the shield, and therefore the pinning should be done selectively.

Sometimes the following can happen: the oculant has a green bark of the scutellum, and the eye is dead. Then such a seedling should not be thrown away, since cultivated stems may still develop from it, but a little later. The fact is that on the shield there are dormant buds that germinate later. Remember that a formed bush is better if the branching of the branches begins as low as possible.

The development of rose seedlings directly depends on proper care . In the summer we take care of young bushes by watering them, removing wild shoots, choosing weeds (they consume fertilizers and darken the roses), loosening the soil (about 6-7 times during the growing season). Then the annual seedlings are dug up, trimmed and planted on permanent place. When planting bushes, they followed the normal application of fertilizers and weeding; there is no need to supplement the seedlings in the first year.

Another way to graft roses onto rose hips with an eye is to bull the shield without wood. It is suitable for the first two methods: in the T-shaped incision and in the “butt”. It is used for those varieties of roses that are more difficult to take root with other budding methods.

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To get healthy and lush bushes roses, you need to know how to graft them onto rose hips in the fall, spring or summer. The most beautiful flowers in the world take a long time to grow from cuttings; it is better to graft, which even the most novice gardener can do. The main thing is to properly prepare the rootstock and scion, choose the rosehip variety, necessary materials and tools and follow the recommendations of specialists step by step.

Correct terminology and necessary tools

Before starting all activities, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic terms in home floriculture:

The neck is the section at the junction of the stem and root.
A rootstock is a separate plant (rose hip), into the root base or stem of which a pink cutting is grafted.
The eye is a pink bud from the leaf sinus.
The stalk is a shoot with pink buds.
A scion is a bud or stem from a rose bush that must take root and develop on the rose hip.

To work with grafting material, you will need some tools: garden scissors, a budding knife, and pruning shears. Using pruning shears, make identical cuts on the rosehip and rose stems. Cuttings are cut with small garden shears. T-shaped cuts are made with a well-sharpened knife. To fix the cuttings and budding, you need electrical tape, medical oilcloth or plastic film, which is cut into strips 15-20 mm wide.

Why are roses grafted?

Any gardener strives to increase his collection of rose bushes. They are propagated vegetatively by cuttings, ultimately obtaining their own root crop. To grow faster new variety a flower that can take root well in summer or autumn, the method of grafting a rose onto a rose hip bush is used. Such bushes:

are not afraid of frost and night cold;
have excellent immunity;
release buds early;
bloom magnificently and for a long time;
they get sick and die less;
have greater vitality.

Rose hips are not always taken as a mother plant. Another rose bush with strong and well-developed roots will do.

Choosing a rosehip variety

Rosehip budding is a very simple agrotechnical technique. It is used to graft capricious ornamental crops onto less finicky plants. In unfavorable climates, rose bushes often freeze, stop growing, and stop blooming. Their lush color and active growth begin if they are grafted onto rose hips. This wild plant- a distant relative of the rose, very resistant to diseases and all kinds of pests. It is not picky in care and tolerates even the most dramatic temperature changes.

For grafting, the main thing is to find a healthy bush with developed roots. The most frost-resistant varieties of rose hips are wrinkled and prickly. Although the latter is quite difficult to vaccinate due to large quantity thorns Also used are dog or brown (May) rosehip shoots with mature bark and a thick root collar (minimum 10 mm). It is advisable to take a mature rosehip that is already 3 years old.

Preparing the rootstock before grafting

The rose hip bush is an ideal basis for obtaining frost-resistant and abundant flowering varieties roses Its harvesting begins in early autumn. Choose a strong plant with long and powerful young stems growing from the ground. For budding the pink trunk, the largest branch is left. The rest are cut with pruning shears. The side branches from the main shoot are also carefully trimmed, leaving a length of 15-20 cm. Then the rose hips are dug up and stored in a cellar or other cool place until spring.

In March, the bush is inspected, broken and rotten roots are removed and soaked in clay liquid with any root formation stimulant. On warm days, planting is carried out in a designated area in the flower garden. The rosehip is buried in the soil to a few centimeters of the stem zone. Low-growing flowers are usually grafted onto low-growing rootstocks; for polyanthus and hybrid tea roses medium-sized trunks are needed, and for semi-climbing and climbing varieties You will need a rosehip with a high stem.

Time to graft roses onto rosehip bushes

The timing of vaccination varies. The best time to graft roses onto wild rose hips is summer (July to August). At this time, young shoots and buds emerge. The procedure is also carried out in the first month of autumn, when active sap formation takes place in the stems, but there are no severe frosts yet. The main thing is that new shoots do not have time to enter the active growth stage. In cool weather winter months young buds take root poorly, especially in Russian regions with a cool climate.

Scion selection and preparation

To obtain a high-quality scion, a mature shoot is cut from a cultivated rose and its central part, at least 5-7 mm thick, is taken. It should have bloomed by now. The cut shoot is wrapped in a cloth, which is periodically moistened with water so that the plant does not dry out. It is desirable that the scion have dormant, developed eyes. Such pink cuttings take root faster and bloom well in the future.

Rose budding

Experienced gardeners have long developed step-by-step instructions on how to quickly and correctly graft a rose onto a rose hip. They recommend the simplest method - kidney grafting or budding. It's starting warm summer, preferably in July or August:

On the day of grafting, a dense stem is cut from the rose bush. Take a one-year-old straight shoot, in the axils of which the buds have already formed. Cut off its middle with several buds. The leaves and thorns are removed from the cuttings. Select the largest eye (bud).
A T-shaped cut is made on the neck of the rootstock (rose hips) with garden pruners or a sharp knife. Its depth is 1-1.5 cm. Then the bark is slowly peeled back.
Cut out the pink cutting with the largest bud (about 2 cm long). All the bark is removed from it. Insert into the cut of the rootstock and press down around the circumference.
Then they start wrapping with film. It is wound from above, bypassing the peephole. It must remain open. I fix the end of the tape under the cut. If budding is successful, after a couple of weeks the old pink petiole will fall off. At the site of fusion, a young green bud hatches.
Grafted rosehip bushes are placed in spacious boxes. To protect against mold, they are covered with crushed coal, moss, dry sawdust, and pine needles.

If budding does not work in the summer, it is repeated in the spring. A T-shaped cut on the rootstock is already made on the other side. To quickly obtain young buds (growths), boxes with rose hips are placed in a room with an air temperature no higher than +15 degrees and with high humidity. When the first ovaries appear, the film that covered the incision site is removed and the boxes are moved to a warmer room. Complete fusion of the rose hips with the pink cuttings occurs after 1.5-2 months.

The bush is planted on open area and cover with film. The place where the young ovary appeared should not dry out. It is lightly sprinkled with soil and watered as necessary. Then the soil is raked away a little at a time, gradually releasing the young shoots. To prevent new buds from being damaged by the scorching sun, the procedure for opening them is carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Once enough new stems have sprouted, a rose bush begins to form. The top of the main stem is cut off so that lateral branches appear, which in a year will already actively produce buds. If the main young sprout continues to reach towards the sun, it is pinched in the zone of 5-6 leaves.

Grafting a rose to a rosehip “in the butt”

Budding “in the butt” is indispensable in seasons when active sap flow stops and the bark lags behind poorly, for example, in winter. To improve the survival rate of the crop, the rose hip bush is actively watered 7 days before the procedure. Soil and dirt are removed from its root neck. High-quality rosehip root base has light yellow or whitish bark. It is removed with a sharp knife. It is important that all grafting tools are clean. In a place cleared of bark, make a small longitudinal incision and apply a cutting with a pink bud to it. She must look up. It is fixed with polyethylene or electrical tape, but not completely covered. This area is sprinkled with soil and care is taken that it does not dry out. After a few weeks, the established eye will turn green. Young shoots will begin to grow on the bush. To grow a profusely blooming chic rose, pinch off the top of the largest shoot.

Caring for a grafted plant

The area where the rootstock is planted is loosened and all weeds are pulled out. At the beginning of autumn, the grafted rose hips are pruned. All shoots growing higher above the grafted bud are trimmed. Then the plant is sprinkled with soil, sawdust or leaves. To protect against frost, use film or polyethylene. They are stretched onto a wire frame. There is no need to clear snow from a covered bush.

At the beginning of spring, the film is removed, sawdust, leaves and earth embankment are raked from the bush. Young growth usually appears at its base. It is cut off so that the main shoots fully develop. Sections are processed copper sulfate or garden varnish. The longest young shoots are pinched. The grafted rose hips need to be periodically watered and loosened, and additionally fed with mineral fertilizers.

Grafting a rose from a vase

Many gardeners exchange their beautiful flowers and wonder how to plant the most beautiful rose from a presented bouquet, especially if it has already stood in water for several days. A small stem with several buds is separated from it. Remove all thorns. Bottom part The cuttings are split to 2 cm and soaked in a solution to stimulate root formation. Then the stem is buried in black soil with humus or a purchased soil mixture.

When planting immediately in an open area, the plant is covered plastic jar with an open top. A developed and healthy bush will grow only in a couple of years. Before this, all buds need to be cut off. It is advisable not to plant a rose from a bouquet in the open sun. In the first months it may throw out bad black shoots. They are removed and care continues decorative culture until it finally takes root.

Grafting one plant onto another is done in order to more actively reproduce them and increase resistance to climatic conditions in the area of growth and various kinds of diseases. To this end they also graft roses onto rose hips. The most common grafting methods, which give almost 100% survival rate, are budding into a T-shaped incision and into the butt. Optimal time budding - beginning of August. At this time, the second sap flow is active. Therefore, this article is about how to graft a rose onto a rosehip in summer or early autumn.

How to graft a rose to a rose hip: step-by-step instructions

Budding in a T-shaped incision

A rose branch of the first year of growth is taken, examined and selected with well-developed dormant bud eyes. They are clearly visible if you bend the sheet. At the base of the leaf stalk there is a sleeping eye.
Using a sharp, clean knife, cut off a branch that has 2-3 dormant eyes. Leaves and thorns are removed from the branch. The leaves are removed carefully so as not to damage the bud: a horizontal incision is made above the bud, 2-3 centimeters below the bud, with a sharp knife, pay attention again, with a clean knife, the bark is cut off along with the bud. If there is wood under the bark, it is removed.
Now the rootstock is being prepared for grafting a rose bud. The rootstock - the plant on which the bud is grafted - must be at least 3 years old, healthy, with a well-rooted root system. Before this, a week before the start of bud grafting, the rootstock is well watered to improve sap flow and increase the likelihood of bud engraftment.
The root collar is freed from the soil and cleaned of dirt with a clean cloth. The bark on the root collar of the rootstock should be white or light yellow.
Using a knife, an incision is made in the shape of the letter T on the root collar. Using the tip of the knife blade, the bark is carefully bent away from the trunk of the neck. A bud is inserted under the bent bark, from top to bottom. It should go completely under the bark, leaving only an eye on the surface.
Then tightly wrap the grafting site with electrical tape at the top and bottom of the eye, it remains unwrapped. The wrapped grafting site is covered with earth, and the rose hip bush is spilled with water. After 3 weeks, the results of the grafting are checked; if the bud is green, it has taken root; if it is dry and dark, it has not taken root.

Butt budding it is done in exactly the same way as in the above method, but only the bark is not cut with the letter T, but is removed from the trunk. A bud is applied to the area freed from the bark and wrapped with electrical tape. It is also checked after 3 weeks.

Remove the tape from the established bud and cover it with soil until spring. The growth of the grafted bud will begin only in the spring.

How to graft a rose onto a rosehip in summer or early autumn: video

The video shows how to prepare the stem for budding, how to properly make a T-shaped cut and separate the bark.