Do-it-yourself supply ventilation in a wooden house. Ventilation in a house made of timber with your own hands. Installation of natural ventilation

The vast majority of owners wooden houses not needed too much complex systems ventilation of living space. At any time a portion fresh air can be obtained from a simple window vent. Not to mention the fact that any microcrack in the inter-crown connection of logs can serve as an invisible source of life-giving oxygen. And wood itself is a fairly heat-resistant, “breathable” building material that has sufficient vapor permeability and does not particularly require special arrangement of artificial ventilation systems. An important role in ventilation is also played by the presence of a stove in wooden house, through the pipe of which the home is additionally ventilated.

  • Comfort from the constant presence of fresh and clean air;
  • The environmentally friendly materials used in this scheme provide a cozy atmosphere in the house, while at the same time having a positive effect on health;
  • When unpleasant odors and substances harmful to the body enter the home air, the risk of being affected is minimized.

The main advantage of this scheme is the ability to control the air removed from the room.

Roof ventilation of a wooden house

Normal ventilation is needed not only for the rooms of the house, but also for the roof. If it is not there, then in the future you will have to expect significant problems, starting from the roof and ending with the ceiling. Only free air circulation in the attic will save the house from all these troubles, maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions.

Our ancestors provided ventilation for the roofs of their houses by installing dormer windows. The cold attic is well ventilated thanks to holes in the ridge on the eaves and front dormer windows.

Ventilation ridge vents and under the roof eaves in modern houses form the most effective system using natural heat and wind pressure.

For free flow of air to the ridge vents in an insulated attic A ventilation gap is made between the outer and heat-insulating layers of the roof. He settles between roofing material and waterproofing with a width of at least 5 cm.

The hood can be mounted not only in the form of ridge openings, but also in the form of pitched ventilation elements installed near the ridge.

It is believed that wood “breathes”, but the main reason lies not in this useful feature natural building material, but that it can absorb and release moisture. Therefore, the issue of ventilation in a bathroom in a wooden house is very important.

Passive ventilation is sufficient for standard one-story house with one, but in larger houses you will have to install a mechanical ventilation system ( supply and exhaust ventilation). In wooden houses, ventilation ducts are usually designed separately for each room, especially for the bathroom and kitchen. The exhaust air is exhausted through them to the roof.

Let's give regulatory requirements for ventilation in bathrooms:

  • the highest air speed in this room should be 0.3 m per second;
  • Humidity (relative) should not exceed 65 percent;
  • air temperature in summer time should be +25 0 C, in winter ─ about +18 0 C;
  • for sufficient air freshening, the inflow/exhaust should be: in a regular toilet 25, in a bathroom - 50 cubic meters per hour.

For any plumbing fixture, it is necessary to comply with the air exchange rate (m 3 / h):

  • 75 for shower/jacuzzi/bathtub,
  • 25 for sink/bidet,
  • 50 for the toilet.

Since plumbing fixtures are rarely used at the same time, the capacity of the bathroom ventilation system may not exceed 110 cubic meters. at one o'clock.

Fan for bathroom. This fan is selected according to the following parameters:

  • noise level ─ no higher than 40 decibels;
  • presence of bearings;
  • device performance, depending on the cubic capacity of the room and the air exchange rate (bathroom ─ 8/10, bathroom ─ 7/8);
  • fan start option;
  • fan model designed for high humidity levels.

The main problems that arise when using the bathroom are excess humidity and heat, the consequence of which is mold in the room, wood material begins to rot, and metal parts become covered with rust. Ventilation will help restore a comfortable microclimate. It ensures proper air exchange and also maintains the most suitable humidity (relative) and temperature in a given room.

Toilet ventilation

The toilet, frankly speaking, is the strongest source of unpleasant odors in wooden building, and here mechanical ventilation, like nowhere else in the house, is necessary.

We have already written above about selecting a fan for the bathroom. Let us now dwell on the main features of the toilet ventilation scheme:

  • To ensure sufficient draft, supply ducts are laid near the floor, exhaust ducts are laid near the ceiling of the room;
  • It is optimal to install the exhaust device on the wall opposite the door;
  • Air ducts are selected with the smoothest internal surface possible;
  • They are stretched for each room of the house separately;
  • Ventilation ducts are laid as straight as possible, with minimum number smooth curves.

More detailed diagram toilet ventilation in a wooden house is shown in the figure below.

In addition to other types of toilets, in a wooden house you can also often find a bathroom in the form of a backlash closet if there is no central sewage system. In this case, the toilet is connected to a waste pit, the manufacture of which requires a special insulated structure. The total volume of the pit is calculated based on the number of people living in the house. True, you will have to monitor the filling of the cesspool, and pay increased attention to ventilation.

Floor ventilation

Ventilation of wooden floors extends the period of trouble-free operation of this important part of the house. If the air stagnates, the main enemies of wood - fungi, mold and condensation - will eventually destroy it to dust.

There are two popular types floor ventilation:

  • through the air intakes,
  • through vents (windows of simple design leading from the underground to the street).

Floor ventilation scheme
1 - plank floor covering; 2 - vapor barrier; 3 - thermal insulation; 4 - slab floor; 5 - wooden logs; 6 - ventilation hole (vent)

Air intakes are arranged under the baseboards in the form of a system of holes, which creates air exchange between the rooms and the underground space. Thanks to it, the soil under the house and foundation does not freeze.

Sometimes floor ventilation is enhanced by stimulating draft in the holes. To do this, install a tin pipe or cut holes in the base. Electric fans are installed on one side of the house for the same purpose.

In winter, ventilation openings should be closed. The soil and wooden structures may freeze, and when it warms up, moisture condensation will form in the premises of the house. Not to mention the cold field.

Another important nuance of ventilation in a wooden house. When cold weather sets in, rodents begin to look for warm shelters for themselves, and under the floor they are created ideal conditions. Not only do they damage wooden structures, they spread various diseases. In order to protect the base of the house from them, grilles are placed on the windows, which are replaced with wooden or clay plugs or bricks in frosty weather. The plugs are removed from the vents as the weather warms up after the snow melts.

Wall ventilation

A ventilated wooden facade allows you to solve the following problems in general:

  • additional insulation;
  • hiding visible wall defects;
  • additional decoration of the facade;
  • strengthening;
  • increasing the sound insulation of walls;
  • simplifying their care;
  • extending the period of the next repair and operation of the building as a whole.

The wall “pie” looks multi-layered. It includes the following layers:

  • wooden wall surface,
  • moisture-proof membrane,
  • ventilation gap,
  • decorative finishing facing layer.

Any layer plays a strictly defined role in a ventilated facade, therefore, they cannot be replaced or removed. The selection of insulation and ventilation scheme are dictated by the size of finances, climatic conditions location wooden house. IN northern regions special attention is paid to insulation in combination with ventilation.

Installing ventilation in a wooden house with your own hands: To find out whether it is possible to install a suitable ventilation system in a wooden house yourself, follow the hyperlink to view the information in the video.

The walls of buildings made of natural wood retain forest aromas that have a beneficial effect on humans. Effectively functioning ventilation in a house made of timber creates the necessary conditions for a good rest.

In old buildings made of natural wood, air currents were moved by heat generated by stoves. Natural ventilation in a wooden house was ensured due to the presence of cracks.

The need for ventilation in timber buildings

Modern buildings made of wood differ from those built earlier by the absence of gaps between joints in the walls. First of all, builders care about preserving heat and preventing drafts.

thanks to the tight mutual fit of the parts, the houses become almost airtight

Is ventilation necessary in a wooden house? A similar question is often asked by homeowners of private buildings. Without an influx of fresh air, there is stagnation of air flows in the space of the home. Wooden buildings need ventilation equipment.

Selecting a suitable system (forced or natural look) is carried out by the owners, since they are best familiar with the specific conditions of stay in their home.

Ventilation device in wooden houses

To successfully arrange ventilation in a wooden house yourself, you need to acquire the usual tools for plumbing and carpentry work. Installation activities consist of the following steps:

  1. Design.
  2. Arrangement of ventilation ducts.
  3. Installation of air ducts according to the drawn up plan.
  4. Checking the system for functionality.
  5. Troubleshooting identified problems.

Features of designing a ventilation system

From the very beginning, the project is developed with your own hands. This event is held in accordance with the requirements building regulations and taking into account the location of the rooms.

Ensuring air exchange standards in the main rooms:

  • kitchen with gas stove– 70 m³/hour;
  • kitchen with electric stove – 50 m³/hour;
  • bathroom – 50 m³/hour;
  • living room – 30 m³/hour;
  • bathroom – 30 m³/hour;
  • utility room – 15 m³/hour.

Quality requires an accurate, justified project.

a competent drawing serves as the basis for determining the parameters of the ventilation system, since it takes into account the layout of a particular house

At this stage, correct marking of the location of system elements is required. You can invite a professional designer to perform this important task.

Installation of natural ventilation

With natural ventilation the most warm masses rise up through special channels located vertically. How to make ventilation with your own hands? Equipping a natural system is the cheapest yet most effective task and is easy to do yourself.

The work package begins with basements, since there is an influx of fresh outside air.

During the construction process, the walls of the house are equipped with special small holes for the passage of air flows

To ensure better draft, fresh air is supplied from north side. The entrance to the supply channel is made at the ground floor level.

Installation of exhaust ducts

Full natural ventilation in a wooden house with your own hands indoors is ensured by cracks specially left under interior doors, equal to 1.5–2 cm. Or by installing door ventilation grilles. Warm air is randomly directed to the exhaust ducts. In each room, a duct entrance must be installed in the ceiling area.

holes in the wall are masked with decorative grilles

Exhaust duct outlets must be installed above the roof. Pass-through air channels are equipped with special plugs or valves to regulate the air exchange rate.

To avoid the backdraft effect during strong gusts of wind, ventilation in a wooden house involves installing separate ventilation ducts for each room. This means that the kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom must be equipped with their own channels so that unpleasant aromas did not enter residential premises. The attic residential floor is equipped with the same channels for complete ventilation. Attics not intended for habitation are ventilated through holes made in the roof.

Traction force in the ventilation system of a wooden house

Ventilation in a private wooden house and its draft depend not only on the wind, but also on other factors:

  1. The ventilation pipe extends over the roof ridge.
  2. Square cross section the inside of the channel.
  3. Number of bends and turns.
  4. The quality of the system's thermal insulation.

The best result is achieved with a minimum number of obstacles in the form of: roughness, bends, narrowings, etc.

During the hot season log house the value of the thrust force approaches zero due to a slight temperature difference in the lower and upper layers ventilation channel. In such conditions the best solution To ventilate the room, you will use forced ventilation or simply open the windows.

Materials for ventilation shafts

Small wooden cottages there is no need to finish the shafts with bricks, since the surface of the internal channel will have unnecessary roughness where dust will begin to accumulate. In a small private house, it is recommended to use channel blocks made of smooth metal or plastic.

Forced ventilation

With natural air movement, the internal atmosphere of the room does not always have time to refresh. Homeowners often come to the conclusion that it is necessary to increase ventilation in a wooden house.

in order to increase productivity, the existing ventilation system can be supplemented with an exhaust hood

The hood in a wooden house will improve if you install this device before entering the exhaust duct in the room where it is necessary to increase the air exchange rate (bathroom, kitchen).

Fan requirements:

  1. The fan dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the duct for convenient installation
  2. The power of the device must be sufficient to ensure effective ventilation

If there is insufficient fan power, an additional blower device is installed.

Unite forced hoods different rooms in one ventilation duct is not recommended for the same reasons as with natural ventilation.

Installation of ventilation in shower cabins

To improve the movement of air masses in a bathroom or shower stall, the doors are hung with a bottom gap of about five centimeters; forced ventilation is also used for this purpose. Ventilation of a shower cabin in a wooden house is installed both above the ceiling and in open form. When directly ventilating a room, the system turns on after a person leaves the cabin, so as not to catch a cold.

Installation of fresh air ventilation in a wooden house

For the purpose of amplification, reinforced forced ventilation. With the help of this system, the most effective air exchange is carried out in all rooms, both in the living area and in the basements and attic.

Supply ventilation in a log house performs the following functions:

  • outside air intake;
  • dust removal using air filtration;
  • heating of incoming air masses;
  • removal of exhaust air from premises.

Supply ventilation equipment

The retail chain has a large assortment of ventilation equipment for houses made of natural wood. To make the right choice, you need to consult with specialists before purchasing fresh air ventilation.

A complete set of equipment consists of the following elements:

  1. Fan built into the duct.
  2. Electric heater for heating cold winter air.
  3. A device for humidifying dry air flows.
  4. Fan vibration damper.
  5. A set of filters for air purification.

A modern supply ventilation system in a wooden house is equipped with automation for ease of control and management.

Installation location of distribution equipment

The attic of a private house is the most preferred place to install equipment. To avoid the harmful effects of vibrations on interfloor ceilings working units are installed on special low stands. During installation, air routes are secured under the ceiling and inside the ceilings.

Checking system performance

Each wooden house, due to the special properties of the building material used, requires a careful approach to the quality of arrangement of any ventilation systems in both residential and office premises. Regardless of the type of ventilation that is installed in a log house, it must be effective.

A refined check of the quality of the system’s operation is carried out using a special device - an anemometer. The ventilation of a wooden house can also be checked with the help of improvised household products. A paper towel held near the ceiling vent should point towards the grate.

Installing ventilation in a wooden house is not a complicated undertaking. The most important and difficult stage can be called designing the system and calculating the necessary elements. It is recommended to carry out this work with the help of specialists.

From the author: Hello, friends! A wooden house is the dream of many, because it is environmentally friendly, cozy and beautiful. In addition, everyone knows that wood “breathes,” thereby creating a wonderful microclimate in the home. But this knowledge often leads to one misconception that can negate all the pleasure of living.

The “breathing” properties of wood make many doubt whether timber is needed. On the one hand, the question is quite justified - after all, air successfully circulates directly through the walls. The builders hired to erect such a structure often contribute their share to the doubts that arise. You can often hear from them that it is enough to simply cut a hole in one of the walls, insert a pipe there - and supposedly everything will be fine with air movement.

As a rule, builders who give out such advice either have low qualifications or are very limited in time and budget, so they don’t want to bother with arranging a ventilation system. In fact, it is necessary.

Why is ventilation needed?

In principle, if we take as an example an old wooden house that was built by your great-grandfather, then it may actually turn out that ventilation is not needed there at all. There are several reasons for this:

  • the old wood has already dried out, so air circulation occurs due to the cracks formed in the walls;
  • double glazing in wooden frames do not greatly impede the flow of fresh air;
  • in old wooden houses, as a rule, there is a Russian stove, which is responsible not only for heat, but also for air exchange.

But if we talk about modern timber houses, then the picture is completely different. Firstly, many modern technologies are aimed at making the house warm. Therefore, the structure of the timber is made much more dense due to various adhesive connections and the like. In addition, the walls are often covered with sealing material, on top of which a finishing. It is clear that we are no longer talking about “breathing” here.

Secondly, if previously windows were made of wood and glass, now they are most often installed plastic double glazed windows. There is no doubt, they perfectly retain heat in the house, and at the same time protect from street noise. But their tightness means that air circulation can only occur when the window is open. And in winter, for example, when everything is tightly slammed shut, there is no such possibility of air exchange.

The listed factors indicate that in modern houses made of timber there are very few opportunities for high-quality natural air exchange. What could this lead to? One of the consequences is constantly increased level humidity. In this case, excess water from the air is absorbed by the walls of the house. And we all know that constantly moistened wood begins to rot, mold appears in it, and as a result, the structure will gradually collapse.

In principle, modern technologies make it possible to produce timber impregnated with various substances that repel moisture, prevent the formation of fungus, etc. But the problem is that they clog the pores of the material, making it completely airtight and non-breathable. Therefore, in a house made of such timber, in the absence of additional ventilation, it will always be stuffy. Yes and unpleasant odors will not keep you waiting.

Types of ventilation systems

From the previous paragraph it becomes clear that the presence of a ventilation system in a log house is prerequisite comfortable stay. The only question is how to arrange it. Moreover, many prefer to do it themselves to avoid additional costs for the services of a master. In addition, everything that you have equipped yourself has a much higher value and reliability.

Create a healthy microclimate and comfortable living conditions, preserve building construction And interior decoration, the ventilation of a wooden house should make the repair-free period as long as possible.

Air exchange tasks

Ventilation ensures the movement of air flows from one part of a wooden house to another. To achieve this, at a minimum, simple measures are taken:

  • channels are installed for air intake (from the street) and its removal to the outside;
  • The circulation of air masses is organized so that they seep into all rooms and utility rooms without exception.

What are the preferred options for ventilation in a wooden house? There is no definite answer, just as there are no identically built houses. Special projects are developed to create exclusive housing of different number of floors and completeness.

Therefore, the main requirement for choosing the type of air exchange is that the speed of air movement does not cause discomfort (there are no drafts) and copes with the necessary supply of fresh air. The absence of unpleasant odors and dampness, the prevention of putrefactive processes, the extension of the life of structures - this is the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a wooden house.

Air exchange systems for a wooden house

  • Natural. Comfortable living conditions are achieved with an hourly aeration productivity of 0.7 - 0.9 cubic meters. Air movement in the system is ensured by the temperature difference between the flows.
  • Forced. The volume of circulated air per hour is 3.0-5.5 cubic meters.

Peculiarities wooden structures with natural micro-cracks in timber or between boards, between wooden windows and doorways, stove (if any) or fireplace already at the construction stage creates conditions for effective natural air exchange. This ventilation system for a wooden house is considered the most the best option air exchange.

Note! Modern houses are built using finishing materials with no or insignificant vapor permeability, installation plastic structures on the windows, which significantly reduces the penetration of air from outside and outside. In such cases, use mechanical methods exchange air environment or combined type of ventilation.

But the rationality of using installations with mechanical injection (removal) of air is determined for each object individually.

Supply ventilation in a mechanical-type wooden house decides whole line tasks:

  • supplies fresh outside air;
  • passes it through filters, cutting off pollutants;
  • heats the air flow moving through the ventilation duct;
  • collects and removes exhaust air from the premises.

How to draw up a ventilation system diagram

The ventilation system in a wooden house requires preliminary drawing up a diagram of the location of its main elements. It is specified:

  • location(s) of ventilation holes;
  • layout of air ducts, number of turns;
  • volume of air exchange (determined by calculation);
  • cross-section of ventilation ducts: calculated or taken from reference literature (tables) depending on the size of the premises;
  • type of thermal insulation used.

Attention! Effective work ventilation involves organizing the movement of contaminated air flow towards the toilet and kitchen. To dispose of smoke and dust masses, do-it-yourself ventilation in a wooden house is equipped with an exhaust hood.

Equipment configuration

When deciding to create a mechanical air exchange, you need to have a set of devices and mechanisms:

  • blower type fan;
  • a set of filters;
  • air heater during the cold period, powered by electricity;
  • humidifier for supplied dry air flow;
  • vibration compensator, etc.

Stages of creating a system

The general algorithm of work on how to make ventilation in a wooden house is as follows:

  • Perform system performance calculations.
  • Draw up a house design and ventilation diagram.
  • Purchase the necessary equipment.
  • Install homemade supply valves and equipment (depending on the type of ventilation).
  • Organize air exchange between the roof and basement.

Attention! Another way of air exchange in the house is to install a recuperator, as well as a monoblock system with purification filters (coarse and fine).

On initial stage When deciding how to properly make ventilation in a wooden house, its performance is calculated. It depends on the number of residents and the size of the house. The speed of air movement determines the required frequency of air exchange. You need to focus on a value of 150-200 m3/hour. Taking these values ​​into account, the number of complete air changes in the house is determined.

Optimization of ventilation processes using supply valves

With increased tightness of structures, it is necessary to provide places for the arrangement of valves through which air circulates in each of the rooms, including in the bathroom and kitchen, even at the design stage. They come in two types:

  • Window. Installation is possible only during the construction stage, while window frames are still missing. Valves are carried out together with the manufacture PVC window— designs.
  • Infiltration valve. They are mounted in walls when it is not practical to replace old frames with new window units. Small round shape the pipe is “threaded” through the wall. Both edges are covered with bars. On the room side, the protection is adjusted to select the optimal ventilation mode.

Why choose natural air exchange

Vents in the basement - an element of natural ventilation

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is carried out in the form of vertical air channels. They must be of the same cross-section and with minimal roughness inside walls This will significantly increase traction. Mounted in the kitchen, toilet, bathroom. Entrance openings are arranged in rooms with an exit into the wall, and then lead out under the roof. The higher the hood is located under the roof, the better the air flow. If you plan to install such an air duct in a cellar or basement, then one duct is not enough. Several of them are required.

Roof ventilation in the form of an aerator prevents condensation from forming and settling on crossbars, rafters, columns, and the thermal insulation of the house. This is a passage through the roof made to insert a device with a diameter of 100 mm. The aerator is fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges of the “skirt”. If the ventilation passage to the roof is not done correctly, troubles may arise in the form of:

The forced (supply and exhaust) type of ventilation in a wooden house does not depend on weather conditions. Moreover, the devices included in the system can additionally heat or cool the air pumped from the street before it enters the house. Works ventilation unit. Two air duct hoses are connected to it. Flows circulate in the deflector. Once they enter the air intake, they spread throughout the room. One of the disadvantages is the participation of a person monitoring parameters and adjusting the air supply.

When choosing a ventilation system for a wooden house, you need to understand the principle of its operation, as well as evaluate the possibilities of installing it yourself.

Ventilation - essential attribute modern private house. Fresh air has a positive effect on health and mental activity, gives the body vigor and energy. The cleanliness of country air in itself encourages the organization of a system for regulating the microclimate in the house.

Ventilation in a wooden house is designed to solve the same problems as in any other room - removal of oversaturated carbon dioxide air, oxygen flow, ensuring comfortable temperature and humidity conditions. However, the process itself is affected by the characteristics of the material from which the building is constructed.

Is ventilation necessary in a wooden house?

The question posed is reasonable, because wood, as you know, breathes (this process is called infiltration). Previously, owners of wooden houses could do without installing ventilation systems. However, there are significant differences between the situation in former times and today:

  • modern requirements for the design of a ventilation system in a wooden house have increased;
  • there are no cracks in the windows and doors, and in the house itself there is usually no stove, the chimney of which served as a ventilation duct;
  • Nowadays, during construction and finishing, materials with low air and vapor permeability are often used (foam plastic, vinyl wallpaper, reflective thermal insulation);
  • Previously, the lifestyle was characterized by activity, and amenities were in the courtyard, which involved repeated opening and closing of doors throughout the day;
  • the air has become more polluted.

It is also worth noting that ventilation in a house made of laminated veneer lumber is worse compared to a log house due to reduced infiltration.

If the air exchange does not have time to remove moist and polluted air in full, unpleasant odors accumulate in the house, excess moisture, the windows fog up. Poor ventilation affects your well-being and causes a feeling of discomfort. With constant elevated temperature and humidity, a favorable environment for the development of mold is formed, and the wood rots.

Design

Ventilation calculations are based on the standards of current GOSTs and SNiPs. The required air flow power, pipe dimensions, and type of valves depend on the following parameters:

  • room volume;
  • number of inhabitants, including permanent guests;
  • availability of equipment (fuel boilers, stoves, etc.);
  • purpose of the premises;
  • number of storeys;
  • climate.

In a wooden house, you can organize natural or forced ventilation.

Natural ventilation

With natural ventilation, air circulates freely in a room under the influence of natural forces. Due to the rise warm air upward pressure is created in the room, cold air from the street rushes into the house.

The process occurs unsystematically, through open windows, doors, cracks or through a natural ventilation system. In the latter case, air will enter the house through air handling unit or supply valve and leaves it through specially designed exhaust ducts, as well as through the chimneys of stoves and fireplaces, if any. In addition, in the natural ventilation of a wooden house there is the previously mentioned infiltration - air leakage through wooden walls.

The draft of natural ventilation is directly proportional to the following parameters:

  • hood height;
  • temperature difference inside and outside the house;
  • pipe diameter.

You can adjust the air flow by positioning the handle of the glass unit. This arrangement of natural ventilation is suitable for the warm season; it is not recommended to use it in winter. If there is high humidity in the house and low temperature outside, sealing rubber bands Frost will form and the window will be difficult to close.

With the design of the exhaust ventilation duct There is one common mistake related to this. When installing ventilation in a wooden house with your own hands, install a hood with horizontal sections and bends. In a natural ventilation system, unlike forced ventilation, such a ventilation duct does not work well.

The natural ventilation system is simple and cheap, does not require operating costs, but depends on weather conditions - temperature, atmospheric pressure and wind strength. In winter, such ventilation works very well due to the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors. In summer the system works worse, and at more high temperature In the house, compared to the street, a reverse draft occurs; through the hood there is an influx of warmer air back into the room. To prevent this from happening, a check valve is installed in the hood.

Forced ventilation

If the power of natural ventilation is not enough, for example during a hot period or when there are a large number of inhabitants of the house, then forced ventilation is connected. Here, the draft in the ventilation duct is created by a fan; the system does not depend on weather conditions. Due to infiltration, a wooden house requires a lower power fan than a house made of brick or concrete blocks.

The fan is installed either only on the hood, or on the supply and exhaust. In the latter case, the power of the exhaust device should be less than that of the supply unit, so as not to create a vacuum in the air in the room.

Compared to natural forced ventilation more reliable, but more expensive, requires electricity and regular maintenance.

Types of ventilation by purpose and area of ​​effect

Functionally, ventilation includes three types. The first (supply) provides an influx of fresh air. The exhaust removes exhaust air, excess moisture, and unpleasant odors. The supply and exhaust unit combines the two previous types.

According to the area of ​​​​action, ventilation can be general, when it extends to the entire room, or local - it operates in a limited area (exhaust above kitchen stove).

Ventilation of premises

For effective air exchange, ventilation in a wooden house is installed evenly, that is, distributed over the entire area. The flow of fresh air is done in living rooms. The exhaust valve must be installed in dirty rooms, with moist air or unpleasant odors.

List of rooms in which it is necessary to make individual exhaust ducts:

  • kitchen;
  • bathroom;
  • bathroom;
  • laundry;
  • wardrobe, pantry or utility room without windows;
  • underground;
  • garage;
  • boiler room.

It is advisable that each living room also have its own exhaust duct. In rooms with very high level humidity (bath, sauna) install a waterproof hood.

Supply valves are installed in windows or built into walls; the volume of incoming air is regulated by the movement of the damper. It is convenient to place the valves under the window sill above heating radiators to heat the air.

Advice! For an additional channel of air access into the room, it is recommended to buy double-glazed windows with micro-ventilation.

Leave a space under the door for exhaust or place a transfer valve in the door. The hood opening is placed on the ceiling so that the incoming air flow crosses the entire room.

There are systems that can be programmed to different modes work, for example at night, during the day and to quickly restore a comfortable microclimate in the house.

Features of the kitchen, bathroom, underground

A local hood in the form of an umbrella is installed above the kitchen stove. To save energy and not create unnecessary noise, it is turned on only during cooking, so a common kitchen ventilation duct is also necessary.

Dangerous gases collect in the sewer system, destroying communications. The path of gas from the sewer riser to the bathroom is blocked by a water seal. So that when flushing the pressure level remains unchanged, and gases and unpleasant odors do not accumulate in the toilet, sewer riser connected to the hood. The outlet of the hood from the bathroom is made on the roof. When installing a hood in the wall, odors from the toilet come from the street back into the house through windows, doors and supply valves.

Advice! It is generally not recommended to vent the hood through the wall due to the small height of the ventilation duct and, accordingly, the low draft of natural ventilation.

Organization of underground ventilation is necessary to prevent rotting wooden floors, lower crowns and getting the insulation wet. The need for vents in the base remains a subject of heated debate among professionals.

To save heat, a recuperator is used - a device that heats incoming air in a heat exchanger with outgoing air.

Fighting condensation

If there is a large difference in temperature between inside and outside, the escaping air can settle on the pipe in the form of condensation and flow down. To minimize condensation, the air ducts are thermally insulated and placed in a common box with the pipes of a heating boiler, stove or fireplace. Thermal insulation helps increase traction.

Another way to deal with condensation is to install a condensate drain. In old ventilation systems, they made an “otter” - a thickening to cool the warm air before exiting outside.

Visibly visible pipes are masked in the following ways:

  • hidden behind suspended and suspended ceilings;
  • put away in decorative boxes;
  • built into furniture;
  • order an individual pipe design.

Recently, systems consisting of large quantity air ducts of small cross-section in contrast to the traditional main one. They connect to one big air handling unit, located in the utility room, and are connected to a manifold.

Roof ventilation

If the roof waterproofing is damaged, moisture accumulates in the under-roof space. If there is no attic ventilation, moisture will accumulate in the rafter structures, mold appears and destroys the wood.

When installing roof ventilation, the overhang lining is made with slots into which the required volume of air can flow. Roof ventilation elements are installed on the roof or ridge. Due to the difference in pressure, the air flow rushes from the overhangs upward to the ventilation outlets, which give way to moisture-saturated air and put a barrier to the penetration of precipitation under the roof. Roof ventilation increases the service life of the entire roof of a wooden house.

Roof outlets

At the exit from the roof exhaust pipes combined into a common ventilation duct rectangular shape. General box can be replaced with separate short ventilation outlets, almost invisible on the roof.

To enhance traction, a special cap is installed above the pipe - a deflector. When there is a side wind or air currents rise from the ground upward, it creates a vacuum and works as an injector. The deflector protects the pipe from precipitation, birds, and other large objects from outside.

Exist technical requirements to the height of the channel in relation to the level of the ridge, which must be observed. This is necessary so that the top of the pipe is accessible for wind blowing from any side and there is always draft in the ventilation duct.

Checking the system operation

A clogged ventilation duct impairs ventilation. To check the hood, open windows and doors. TO ventilation grille attach standard sheet paper. If it sticks, then the ventilation is functioning normally and the reason for the lack of draft is the lack of air flow. If the sheet is not attracted, then the ventilation duct is clogged with dirt and debris deposited on the walls.

Using an anemometer, the air flow speed is measured, the volume of passing air is calculated and checked against the standards. If condensation occurs, it is recommended to check the draft force and thermal insulation of the ventilation pipes.

Errors in the design of the ventilation system are fraught with alterations, which can cost a lot of money. Accurately performed calculations are the key to long-term preservation of the marketable value of the house and ensuring the comfort of its owners and guests.