Homemade agricultural machinery is very popular among farmers in Russia. Such designs are much cheaper than factory ones. And the flight of creative imagination of the masters is not limited by anything. The results are quite interesting developments used in agriculture.
Homemade agricultural machinery from a walk-behind tractor
Many farmers are familiar with the advantages of a conventional walk-behind tractor used in the household. Motorcycles usually run on gasoline or diesel engines. The presence of wheels allows you to perform many tasks. As a result, some of the land work is easier for the farmer. In what designs is a walk-behind tractor used?
If a farmer knows how to use a mechanic’s tool, a walk-behind tractor in his hands can turn into a useful unit. It can be used for:
- plowing the land;
- snow removal;
- transportation of bulk materials;
- lawn mowing;
- planting and harvesting potatoes;
- as a plow.
All walk-behind tractor structures can be divided into two groups. In the first case they use attachments, in the second, the walk-behind tractor will be completely reconstructed.
Major reconstruction of the walk-behind tractor
If you show persistence and imagination, you can make unique homemade agricultural equipment. The main types of units obtained from a walk-behind tractor:
- Trailer. This device is based on the creation of an additional trailed structure. It is important to take into account the shift in the center of gravity, which will move backwards. The front axle also needs to be widened.
- All-terrain vehicle. The walk-behind tractor is mounted on a 4-wheel frame. The finished structure will resemble an ATV or tractor. It turns out to be excellent homemade agricultural equipment for farmers. It is maneuverable and very functional.
- Hay picker. Almost all farmers build a hay picker from a walk-behind tractor. The design is a welded frame made of pipes that are attached to a plate and installed back. Two wheels are attached to the front. It turns out something like a mini-tractor.
- Snowmobile. If you install tracks on a motorcycle structure, it will make an excellent vehicle for movement in snowy winter conditions.
Homemade potato digger
The potato digger is mounted on a tractor. While moving, the knives cut the ground and collect potato tubers. During vibration, excess soil is shaken off the potatoes. Clean tubers are thrown into the rows, where they are collected by hand. Homemade agricultural machinery represents many variations of this device. Working on this unit, the master can determine the thickness of the iron structures and their strength. The basis is a frame, which is welded from corners and channels. A ploughshare is made from iron plates, which is attached to the elevator casing.
The elevator is given a slight slope. The rotating shafts and drum, transport and support part are prepared. The design is quite complex, so it cannot be made without special technical skills. And in terms of cost, such a device will not be cheap.
Do-it-yourself homemade agricultural machinery is a good idea for advanced craftsmen with special skills. If there are no such abilities, the farmer can choose any units in the store.
Homemade products for the household will help make your home cozier and more comfortable. Handmade fixtures and decorating old household items will give a second life to things, which will significantly save your budget. This will also allow you to decorate the environment and make the interior more creative. Some homemade products for the household will visually increase the space and create comfort.
Folding chair
It is not always possible to financially purchase some furniture in a store. You can successfully get out of this situation if you make crafts with your own hands. For example, it is enough to simply make from and
The folding part (chair legs) is attached using hinges or mounted on a metal pin, which is secured at the edges with nuts. The tarpaulin is cut into two rectangles, with grooves for the bars sewn on the sides. The side parts of the top of the chair (back frame with armrests) are made in the form of the letter “b”. They are connected with bolts or self-tapping screws. It should be remembered that the folding lower part must be fixed in the working position. Therefore, not far from the connecting pin on the legs of the chair you need to attach a metal hook - it will firmly close this structure.
Who cooks porridge in the little house, gathers guests
Craftsmen familiar with a saw and drill can even make a children's room in a small apartment. To do this, you need to build something like a screen with doors and windows from plywood or other fairly light material. Corner connections the slabs will imitate the corners of the house. Having painted the homemade screen accordingly, the master will turn it into a miniature children's mansion.
You just need to make sure that this screen can be firmly attached to the walls. After all, the safety of children is paramount! And they will fit quite well inside children's table, and a crib, and a box with toys.
Or you can even sew it. For such walls, any bright fabric that can simply be hung on a rope, wire or solid cornice is quite suitable.
Knitted furniture
Today it has become extremely fashionable to make benches. They use such homemade products for the household, storing various items inside: toys, bedding, pots, cereals. They can be placed in the kitchen, nursery or living room. They are also very convenient for relaxing both in a city apartment and in the country.
To make furniture with storage drawers, you must first make a frame for it. The bench consists of a rectangular box mounted on legs. The soft part is knitted in the form of a rectangular parallelogram without one base and put on the lid. You can insert an elastic band into the lower part so that the elegant “upholstery” is pulled together at the bottom of the bench.
The pouf can be given either a square or cylindrical shape. To do this, vertical posts are stuffed around the circumference of the lower wooden base, which are then connected at the top with thick wire. Plywood shields are stuffed between the racks to prevent things from falling out of the “storage.”
The upper round base is cut out separately. The soft part is knitted in the form of a cylinder and secured to the top part of the pouf. It is placed on top of the pouf like the lid of a hat box.
Using used clothing in homemade crafts
Anyone who has a collection of useful tips for household management should definitely include the following entry in it: “Do not throw away an item before you are convinced that it is completely dilapidated. Try to give every item a second life!”
From old clothes, for example, you can knit or weave creative upholstery. Unnecessary tights are widely used, which are cut into a spiral and slightly stretched to twist the strip into a tube. You can use other material, also cutting it into strips and sewing them together. The “yarn” is wound into a ball, from which it is then knitted with fingers or woven into fabric.
Knitting without knitting needles repeats the algorithm of regular knitting. Only the loops are held directly on the fingers. And they also pull the thread.
For weaving, you can use a frame, along the edges of which nails are stuffed. The thread is first laid crosswise, wrapping around symmetrically located nails. They should all cross themselves at one point in the middle of the frame. Then the end of a thread of material is tied to the center and they begin to weave the fabric in a circle.
And the old refrigerator is in use
As a homemade product for the household, you can use used large household appliances. And then, instead of the tedious task of dragging out a washing machine or refrigerator to the trash bin, a creative, necessary thing may appear in the house. It will be both beautiful and useful.
The technique of converting refrigerators into incubators has long existed. However, such a thing is required only for those who are engaged in poultry farming and live in rural areas. And here they are original homemade products for home and dacha from refrigerators, like chests tied with fabric threads, will decorate your home and allow you to hide many useful things in them.
To make this piece of furniture, you need to remove the motor of the device. If you now put the refrigerator with the door up, then the frame of the chest is almost ready. All that remains is to knit the cape and sew a foam pad on its upper part, cutting out a hole in it where the handle will hide.
The cape should be made in the form of a rectangular parallelogram without a lower base. To make it easier to use the chest, you can sew a zipper lock into the side.
It's a matter of painting - everything will be like in a fairy tale
Non-working refrigerators can also be easily converted into cabinets. You just have to work some magic on their decor. You can make a creative piece of furniture in a cartoon style for a nursery or a fantasy style for a hallway, an antique style for a living room or a musical style for an office. It all depends on the imagination of the master.
Although a working refrigerator will become more creative if you paint it or stick an original film sticker on the casing. This will also protect the surface of the unit from scratches and corrosion.
Kitchen appliance decor
You can simply decorate not-so-new household items with stickers, appliqué, or paint pictures on the trim using paints for metal surfaces. The thing will again please the eye and sparkle with fresh colors. In just a few hours you can completely change the look of your kitchen, without even making homemade items for your household from scratch.
Microwave ovens, washing machines, cabinets and pencil cases are decorated with both pictures and drawings, and three-dimensional decorations are glued onto them.
Each person, with his skillful hands, can create unique and even luxurious items for his home. You just have to think a little and make an effort.
Crafts made from old objects and things that can be given a second life can make your home much more comfortable. Some DIY homemade products for the household can significantly save the home budget, make work easier, or make the surrounding interior more interesting. And even if difficulties arise in the process, overcoming them will be worth it.
Homemade crafts for the home workshop
In almost any home there is always some set of tools necessary for farming. But sometimes situations arise when working in your own workshop or garage requires some kind of device that cannot be purchased in a store or is very expensive. In this case, you can find a way out by making it yourself.
Forge from a balloon
This device for heating metal will become an indispensable assistant in a home workshop. The forge can be safely used for making original items using artistic forging. These will be truly unique forged items.
For the forge, it is best to use an empty 25 liter gas cylinder. Its ends are cut off with a grinder, and the door of the forge and its back part will be made from the cut parts. The inside of the cylinder is covered with fire-resistant ceramic wool, which can withstand temperatures of more than 1200 0 C. On top it is coated with fireclay clay (lined), which can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C. After lining, fireclay slabs or fire-resistant bricks are laid on the bottom of the hearth.
A hole is drilled at the top and a small squeegee is inserted, allowing the nozzle of a gas-powered burner to be inserted, which can create a temperature in the forge of more than 1000 0 C - quite sufficient to heat the metal to a certain temperature suitable for forging.
Collapsible garage crane
When manufacturing such a lift, the cash costs will be much less than purchasing a factory model. To make it, you will only have to spend money on materials, half of which may be found in the garage.
Materials required to assemble the lift:
- Two racks - profile pipe 100x100x2350.
- Cross rod - steel pipe arbitrary length with a diameter of 100 mm.
- Four supports for the rod - profile pipe 100x100x600.
- The base and braces are a corner with 100 mm shelves.
- Two metal rollers for the cable.
- Four wheels for movement.
For the lifting mechanism, it is best to use a hand winch with worm gear with a maximum load of up to 500 kg, which is attached to one of the racks of the crane beam.
The design does not take up much space in the workshop, is easy to move on hard surfaces and is quite convenient for removing the engine from the car.
Mobile tool rack
The main highlight of this rack is its small size
, but at the same time you can place it on it a large number of tools, and if necessary, quickly move it to any place or neighboring room. It is very convenient to use such a rack in your workshop or when carrying out construction and repair work in large rooms, especially when you need to frequently carry tools.
The rack can be assembled on the basis of a collapsible plastic rack installed on a homemade platform with wheels (trolley). The platform is made exactly to the dimensions of the rack from a metal corner with shelves 45x45 mm or a sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. Furniture metal wheels are used for movement.
Additionally, you can make and attach fasteners to the rack for building levels, extension cords and other tools that can be stored in a hanging position.
To help the hostess
It is not always possible to financially buy, for example, some new furniture in a furniture showroom or place an order for its manufacture. But you can always get out of this situation by making the right thing with your own hands, while making it attractive and unique, using available means for this.
Kitchen apron made of corks
The kitchen apron is the surface of the wall located between the countertop and wall cabinets. Usually this part of the wall is tiled. But it is possible to use many other materials to cover it, for example, gluing wine corks to the wall.
Such exclusive decor looks pretty great.
Before sticking, each cork is cut lengthwise into two halves with a sharp stationery knife. It is advisable to paint the wall black, which will highlight the seams between the plugs.
Corks are glued to the wall using liquid nails in a checkerboard pattern or with a specific pattern, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to lay them out perfectly evenly, and curved rows will visually look disgusting.
The plugs themselves are not afraid of moisture, but they quickly get dirty and are difficult to wash, so it is best to cover them with a glass screen made of tempered glass. True, you will have to spend a little money on it and order glass from a special workshop, where they will cut it to a given size and make holes for sockets and fasteners.
The glass is fixed to the wall with anchor dowels, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store.
Although an apron decorated with wine corks may be an expensive pleasure, achieved result will be worth it.
The surface of the tabletop, as well as the wall, can be decorated with corks and covered with tempered glass.
Hanging folding table
Wall mounted folding table IR allows you to save some space in the apartment. When folded down, it can protrude from the wall at a distance of no more than 10 cm and does not bother anyone at all, but when unfolded it can replace a full-fledged table.
There are many options where you can use a wall-mounted folding table. Here are just a few of the most basic:
Shower for the cottage
There is probably nothing better than cooling off under running water on a hot summer day, especially if it was spent working in the garden. Naturally, only a shower will solve this problem and relieve the fatigue that has accumulated during the day.
You can install a shower yourself without involving outside help; the main thing is to choose a place for it and decide on the type of shower stall.
Among the summer showers, three types of cabins stand out:, which you can freely build on your own:
Installing a simple shower is done as follows:
- A shower cabin frame is made, which can be assembled from metal, wooden beams or other available materials.
- A metal or plastic water container, which can have a volume of 50 to 200 liters, is installed on the roof of the assembled frame.
- Metal container It is advisable to paint it black for better heating of the water. Additionally, several heating electric heating elements can be installed in the container, then you can take a shower even in cloudy weather.
The booth can be sheathed with boards, plywood, slate, or simply covered with tarpaulin or cellophane film with folding curtains.
For construction on your own
The topic of construction or renovation probably worries everyone. And, naturally, everyone who is involved in it wants to finish it quickly with minimal financial costs. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make some construction materials yourself. For example, these could be wall SIP panels or something like this useful tool, like a vibrating plate, the need for which often arises for many owners of a personal plot.
Homemade SIP panels
To make them, you need to prepare a flat, hard platform. Place a sheet of OSB 10-12 mm thick on it using a rubber spatula with teeth, apply glue to it.
Then lay sheets of grade 25-30 foam plastic on the glue. After this, an adhesive mass is applied on top of the laid foam, as well as on the bottom OSB board, and a second sheet of OSB is laid on top.
If several stacked slabs are being made at the same time, work should be done quickly until the glue hardens. Typically, no more than 4-5 panels can be prepared in this way at a time.
After preparing the formed slabs, you need to create pressure using a press. Since at home, of course, there is no hydraulic press, it can be replaced with a thick plywood sheet, laid on prepared SIP boards over the entire plane and loaded for 2-3 hours, for example, with several bags of cement, sand or other cargo. You can even use a passenger car, driving onto a plywood sheet along a pre-made overpass.
After the glue has completely dried, the homemade panels are ready; they can be placed in a separate stack and you can begin preparing new panels. The manufactured panels should lie unloaded for another day, after which they can be used for their intended purpose.
Making a vibrating plate
To make homemade vibrating plate, you will need to prepare:
- An electric motor with an IV-98E eccentric, which is the main part of the vibrating plate.
- Steel sheet, at least 8 mm thick, size 450x800 mm. It can be ordered at any metal warehouse.
- Two pieces of channel no more than 400 mm long.
- inch pipe for the handle and two rubber bushings for its fastening.
- The tools you will need are a welding machine, a grinder and a set of wrenches.
On the narrow sides of the slab, stepping back 80-100 mm from the edges, make an incision with a grinder to a depth of about 5 mm. After this, bend the edges towards the cut at an angle of approximately 25 0 and weld them. The bends are needed so that the vibrating plate does not sink into the material it compacts and moves freely along its surface.
Then, across the slab at a certain distance calculated for mounting the electric motor, two channels are welded with the shelves down. Through pre-drilled holes in the channel, using M10 bolts, an electric vibrator is attached to them.
The handle, made of pipe, is attached to the vibrator through soft rubber bushings, which can be purchased at an auto parts store or hardware store in the hardware department.
Thus, you can make a lot of useful household things with your own hands, spending only a fraction of the money that you would have to pay when buying a finished product. You just need to put in some effort and have certain skills.
Standard gardening tool and its modification. So far, all work in the garden and vegetable garden is done manually. And the tools produced by industry leave much to be desired.
And yet - what is included in the standard set? First of all, of course, shovels. They serve as the main tool for digging up soil, digging holes and trenches, loading and unloading bulk, viscous and other materials. It is better to have a full set of shovels, ranging from bayonet or digging shovels to shovels or scoops. But they can be modernized (Fig. 18). The modernized shovels are not only convenient and reliable in operation, but also versatile. No less necessary in gardening are forks, both regular, with four bayonets, and other configurations: straight, curved, curly, with three and two horns. Some of them are good for working with tops and leaves, others with compost, and others replace a shovel when digging (Fig. 19).
On heavy soils you can’t do without a hoe. Existing hoes come in three types, but they are not much different from each other. They also need to be modernized, adapted to their working conditions: made heavier, lighter, sharpened. You will see examples of conventional and modernized hoes in the pictures. The same applies to weeders or hoes. The best of them are loop ones with side and front sharpening, there are special types, designed to combat particularly stubborn weeds with branched root systems, massive trunks and shoots (Fig. 17).
Rippers, cultivators and rakes of existing modifications in most cases are of little use for gardening and gardening, especially when the site is just being developed and you have to deal not only with fallow land, but also with stones, unnecessary plantings, holes and ruts. All of these tools can be remade. Mainly in the direction of their strength and reliability. Particular attention should be paid to the handles and handles of the tool, their length and weight. Along with miniature tools, the farm must also have massive ones, suitable for uprooting, crushing and flat-cutting work. It’s good if a gardener or gardener adds a homemade tool to the standard store set.
Rooter. Those who have had to deal with this thankless work will appreciate the proposed tool. The uprooter is a section of water pipe 1.5 m long, to the end of which a blade from an aircraft turbine or an old chisel measuring 150x70 mm is welded. The blade should be sharpened as sharp as possible. When uprooting large trees and shrubs, sand is poured into the pipe to weigh down the tool and a wooden plug is driven in. The uprooter is buried at an angle of 45° to the rhizome and with a strong blow cuts it (Fig. 20).
Correctly mounted instrument. All types of tool fastenings can become unreliable if not carefully monitored. Accidents happen at the most inopportune moments and often lead to injury. To avoid this, you must follow three rules: before work soak the mounted instrument in water - swollen wood “holds” the instrument more securely, all types of fastenings should not become loose, much less twist or fall out; The tool must be sharpened well, freed from burrs and chips. Cracked tool You can't work at all!
Hammers and axes, sledgehammers and ketmen are mounted with blades. It is safer to place them not directly, as is often done, but at an angle of 45 o, which allows you to fix the handle or ax along the entire perimeter of the attachment (Fig. 20).
The attachments of shovels, rakes, and forks also leave much to be desired - they are usually fixed with a nail or screw; which is completely unreliable, although there is a known method of lining with subsequent folding of its ends (Fig. 20).
And one last thing. All tools are impaled by hitting the back of the handle, ax or handle. Other types of attachments are ineffective and lead to deformation of the instrument itself and injury.
Tool sharpening. All tools require sharpening, and this is not as simple as it might seem. Firstly, the instruments different angles sharpening. If for a saw it can be 37°, for an ax 33-35°, then for a knife - 6-8°, and for a drill, for example, 90-120°, for a plane knife - 45 o, and for an awl - 1- 0.5°! There are templates for sharpening many tools, some of which you can make yourself, so as not to make mistakes - nothing is done “by eye”!
The sharpening angle is the angle of attack of the tool. Sharpen the ax already, it will get stuck in the tree, and the cutting edge of the scissors will wrinkle, the drill or chisel will simply break off. The diagram shows the sharpening angles of some types of tools, as well as the simplest patterns.
One tool can be sharpened by another. Most often - with a sharpener or emery stone, but often with files. For this purpose, there are triangular and flat files. They also sharpen saws. It is necessary to use protective devices when sharpening saws, as shown in the figure, and also have a set for the teeth - even a very well sharpened, but not set, saw will not cut. There are no wiring or crosspieces for sale, so you will have to make them yourself (Fig. 21). The saw teeth are bent by setting them to the desired angle, and the bending angle is checked using a cross.
When sharpening, the tool usually heats up, which can disrupt its hardening. The strength of the tool and performance depend on hardening. You can harden the instrument yourself. To do this, just heat it until it glows cherry and put it in water. There are other types of hardening. To drill glass, for example, the drill is hardened in wax.
Requires attention measuring tool. Especially for those who are involved in construction or love to tinker. The simplest metric measuring instruments are publicly available (rulers, folding meters, tape measures), and we will not dwell on them. The situation is more complicated with level meters: plumb lines, spirit levels, temperature and barometric sensors.
The simplest measure of verticality is a plumb line. It is a bullet-shaped piece of metal suspended on a strong thread, the deviation of which from a wall or part of a structure determines verticality. It’s easy to make a plumb line yourself (Fig. 20).
The measures of horizontality are levels. They can be replaced with simple devices. Here is one of them - a spirit level in the form of an isosceles triangle, at the apex of which the same plumb line is fixed (Fig. 20). A primitive level can also be two pipettes inserted into a flexible rubber tube filled with water or any colored liquid (Fig. 20). We have already looked at a homemade level.
Thermometers (alcohol and mercury) are widely used. They can be used instead of barometers and frost predictors. To do this, simply place a reservoir of alcohol or mercury in a capsule with soaked cotton wool. The figure shows not only the use of the thermometer in this role, but also shows the frost calculation table to which it is attached.
A dry barometer can also be a primitive barometer. spruce branch, fixed at one end to the wall, where a diagram is drawn from zero to “dry”, “wet”. When it rains, the branch bends, as in dry weather (Fig. 20).
Devices, devices, structures. The need for auto-grips in the economy is obvious. There are several types of grips, but they are based on the principle of a multi-link kinematic chain driven by a slider moved along a guide (Fig. 23, 24). Auto-grab is a part of the lifting and transport mechanism and is unthinkable without the use of blocks, levers and other devices that perform these functions.
Lifting devices. The simplest of them are a lever and a rocker, used in the construction of wells, as well as temporary structures during the construction of objects on the site. More complex lifting devices are pulleys with ropes and pulleys. If they are equipped with platforms and guides, then primitive elevators can be constructed to supply water to a water tank or outdoor shower (Fig. 24). Winches can also serve the same purposes if the rope is passed through a block or roller.
Pumps and pumps. These devices for supplying water can be purchased at the store or made by yourself. A pump is a single-cylinder or two-cylinder pump with a rocker arm and a manual drive (Fig. 25) Pumps are usually equipped with a motor and operate on a centrifugal or vacuum principle
Here are some of the pumps produced by industry and intended for use in the garden: VS-0.5/18M, “Druzhok”, NEB 1/20, “Strumok”, “Malysh”, “Kama-5”, “Agidsl”, TsNB -2, “Spring”, BKF-4. All their necessary characteristics are indicated in the instructions attached to the products.
Pulling mechanism. Its use is also multifaceted: tensioning wires and ropes, installing pipes and fences, strengthening roof rafters. The device is not particularly complicated; you can make it yourself. The mechanism itself is, as can be seen in the figure, a lever system with a lock. It is quite stiff, but can be softened with spacers or a spring if necessary.
Wedge lock. The device is also quite simple to manufacture and performs the same tightening work when it is necessary to tightly fit parts: for example, boards when laying a floor.
"Cobra" for picking berries. Anyone who has collected sea buckthorn knows how difficult it is. But it is not only sea buckthorn that is difficult to collect berries. The task is simplified by a “cobra”, or comb for picking berries (Fig. 22). Making the device is not difficult, but it will give a considerable effect.
Self-clamping when lifting loads. Their difference from self-grabs is that they are triggered at the moment the work is completed. In addition, the larger the load they take, the tighter they hold it. In the figure you see several options for self-capturing systems.
Fruit bearers. When harvesting apples and pears, you often have to use a stepladder. If you make a fruit tree (Fig. 22), then there will be no need for this - with a stick length of 1.5-2 m you can reach the top of even a tall tree. In addition, the removed fruit will not fall to the ground.
There is another version of the fruit picker - from a tin can with a diameter of 10 cm, the top lid of which has teeth cut into it. The can is attached to a stick or aluminum tube. The fruit picker is convenient for collecting cherries, plums, and raspberries: the stalks of the berries fit into the slits in the lid. Having emptied the jar, the fruit grower is put back into use - and there is no damage, much less crop loss!
Folding shovel. It is convenient and can easily be transformed into another garden tool - it all depends on the angle at which you attach its bayonet (Fig. 20).
Trowel-scoop. If you weld a side to a regular trowel (a spatula for applying mortar), as shown in the figure, you will get a new tool. The trowel-scoop does not lose the solution, takes more of it and better protects the seams.
A disposable spray bottle can be made from two used ballpoint pen refills, connecting them with wire, as shown in the figure.
Feather incisors. Good wood chisels can be made from stationery pens by inserting them with the writing side into a metal tube and securing them with a wedge-shaped sleeve. Sharpen the tail of the feather and give it the required shape. You can attach a wooden handle or a gas bottle to the tube.
Tips, ideas, recipes. The tool should always have its place. For example, on the inside of the door of any cabinet it is not difficult to nail a strip with slots for pliers, screwdrivers, and a hammer.
A convenient file for processing wood (end cuts) can be made from an old bastard file. To do this, you need to release it (heat it and let it cool in the air), bend the ends, saw off it under the handle and harden it again. The resulting bracket will be the required tool. Now all that remains is to attach the handle
A convenient device for carrying firewood can be made from several slats, a thick nylon cord and two pieces of wire. Three holes are drilled in each rail, a cord is passed through them and each rail is secured with knots. On the two outer slats there is a
wire handles are attached to rubber tubes. Having laid a bundle of firewood on the device, tie the free ends of the cords in pairs and that’s it - the luggage is ready.
The handwheel of a water tap makes a good brass hammer for small jobs. You just need to drill the hole, making it oval, and place the handwheel on the handle
A cutter for boring holes in wood and plastic can be made from a pencil sharpener. It is fixed in the drill chuck.
It is most convenient to cut sandpaper with a nail along the underside of the sheet. The edge turns out smooth.
From a piece of hacksaw blade you can make a convenient knife for stripping insulation from wires. To do this, you need to release the blade, drill a hole in it, make a segment cutout and sharpen the edges of the cutout. After this, harden the canvas again, and wrap the remaining part with insulating tape.
A hole in glass can be drilled not only with a drill hardened in wax, but also with a regular one, using a solution of aluminum alum as a cooling and wetting liquid. acetic acid. A plasticine roller is made around the future hole, into which the liquid is poured.
A torn children's ball can protect your hands when using garden shears. To do this, you need to cut a hole in the middle of the ball and insert it into a ladle using a tool
To cut small threads in metal, it is best to use a brace, clamping a tap into its chuck
If you don’t have metal scissors at hand, a sheet of roofing iron can be quickly and accurately cut with a can opener. To do this, the sheet must be bent along the cut line and tapped with a mallet.
An anvil for small work can be made from an old iron, fixing its handle in a wooden block
Siphon refill cans make good handles for needle files and other small tools. For large tools, plastic bottles for shampoos and other products are suitable. chemicals, if they are pre-filled with liquid cement, gypsum or bustylate with sawdust.
If it didn’t turn out to be a curse large drill, hole the right size can be drilled with three thin ones, clamped in a drill chuck and fastened with several turns of wire.
To cut grooves, tenons, slats on a hacksaw, instead of one, you need to insert two blades. The width of the cutout is adjusted by the distance between the blades and the thickness of the washer or spacer between them.
To prevent the earth from sticking to the shovel, you need to drill several holes throughout its entire blade.
Instead of a thin drill, you can use a thin needle, having first sharpened its end from the eye side.
A fruit water stopper nailed to the end of the chisel handle will reliably protect it from splitting.
It is convenient to cover the handles of hand tools (nippers, pliers) with vinyl chloride tube. To do this, immerse the tube in acetone for 15 minutes, and when it swells, put it on the handles. After drying, the vinyl chloride fits tightly onto the metal.
From an arched leg from a clamshell you can make a bow saw machine in a few minutes. A 70 cm long sheet is inserted into the slots at the ends of the tube and secured with nail pins. The result is a lightweight and productive saw that can be used by one or two people.
In order to cross saw You could use it alone, just move the handle from top to bottom and lubricate the blade with soap.
Instead of a tap, you can use a steel bolt, filing three edges on it and hardening it.
To strengthen the sharp drill bit in the drill chuck, you can use a collet pencil.
If the pliers open too tightly, their movement can be eased by drilling a hole with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm from the diameter of its axis in the center of the tool axis.
By bending a stainless steel gripper, you can easily remove pickles from jars and eggs from pots of boiling water. The gripper is a loop bent to the corner of the shredder.
Coloring hard to reach places A pipe bent at an angle into which the brush is inserted will make it easier. A pipe from a folding bed will do; there is no need to bend it - just cut off the excess with a hacksaw.
You can't drill through stainless steel without some tricks! All the drill needs is a lubricant made from a mixture of machine oil and a small amount of sulfur. It’s even better if sulfur is mixed with fatty acids. They can be obtained by dissolving low-grade laundry soap in water and add technical hydrochloric acid, which makes the oil float. Now you need to cool the water and extract the required product. Fatty acids are mixed with sulfur in a ratio of 6:1 (by weight).
The efficiency of an abrasive tool can be increased if the coolant is made into a solution washing powder(a teaspoon per liter of water).
If the saw creaks, gets stuck and does not cut well, do not rush to sharpen. Wipe the teeth with soap. This advice will also help you if the saw does not handle damp or resinous wood.
Scissors cut better if they are lightly lubricated with wax or paraffin.
Mechanisms and structures. Although mini tractors and walk-behind tractors are still rare in our gardens and orchards, their production has been mastered by industry, and there will be more and more machines every year. M-5 and M-1, for example, are produced with necessary set mounted and trailed working tools carrying out plowing, harrowing, soil cultivation, digging planting holes, inter-row cultivation, mowing grass, transporting goods, watering, crushing feed, drilling wells and other work, completely replacing manual labor Location on.
But these works are also performed by separate mechanisms, many of which are easy to do with your own hands.
Vehicles. To the usual set of them - a stretcher, a wheelbarrow, a cart, a sled - you can add a barrel-scooter and a cable car. But it’s easy to convert a wheelbarrow, a cart, and a sled to make them more convenient and foldable (Fig. 27, 28).
A 200 liter scooter barrel is convenient for delivering water. You just need to strengthen it by applying additional hoops that act as rims; they can even be made rubber by fitting old bicycle tires, and, having centered them, weld bushings with ball bearings. The handrail handle is attached to them (Fig. 28).
The suspended cable car is convenient because it is easy to install and remove. It is usually installed in the middle of the site where all types of work are concentrated, including the autumn harvest. The cable car also performs other types of transport work, as can be seen from the pictures.
Irrigation and sprinkler systems. Watering a garden or vegetable garden, even with a properly functioning irrigation water supply, is not an easy and quite labor-intensive task. Everything can be simplified by equipping the irrigation and rainwater installation as ground type, and hanging (Fig. 26) It is even made mobile or portable. True, this will require a full set of hoses, connecting and shut-off valves, which are always in short supply... It is better to limit yourself to a more modest set: a supply hose, a tee and a piece of 1.5-2 m watering hose with holes pre-burnt with a hot awl (Fig. 28 ).
Pipe connections are the most difficult thing for a gardener. Existing locks are unreliable and quickly fail. We offer a number of simple connections that have been tested in practice: pneumatic lock, cap lock, spherical joint (Fig. 30).
A curious machine was invented by William Ozolin for watering garden plots. The device is quite simple: a clock with a weekly winding, a 9-12 V step-down transformer, a relay, a rectifier and an electric pump. The hour hand creeps onto the copper contact attached to any number on the clock, closes the power circuit of the electric pump - water supply to the area begins. If the arrow slips from the contact, the water supply stops.
It is easy to adjust the watering time by lengthening or shortening this contact.
Mechanized weeding. Weed control on the site is a constant concern of the gardener and gardener. Weeding by hand is difficult and time-consuming, even with the use of tools. But craftsmen have long and quite successfully mechanized this type of work.
In the picture you see a small, easy-to-use cultivator with replaceable tools - a pointed paw, a tooth ripper and a hiller (Fig. 29)
There are other solutions, articulated and rotary harrows, a splitting unit. All of them can be installed on carts designed according to the principle described above
Vegetable seeder. It is not difficult to do it yourself, and it will make the work much easier, not to mention the fact that it will speed up sowing and carry it out efficiently. The figure shows all the main components of such a seeder, and a brief description explains them (Fig. 31)
However, you can do without a seeder altogether. It is enough to nail a block 80 mm wide onto a stick and use it to push the pound prepared for sowing to the required depth. The seeds lie evenly on the compacted litter, which guarantees good and uniform germination.
Potato sorting. The bulking of potatoes will be made easier and faster by a bulking table made from a low wooden box, installed with a slight inclination (about 22 degrees) on low trestles. Box length 150 cm, width 75, height 25 cm. The bottom is lattice, made of narrow longitudinal wooden slats or metal rods. In the first half of the box the gap between the slats is 3-4 cm, and in the second half - 6-7.
The potatoes, rolling down the grid, are sorted, falling into gaps corresponding to the size of the tubers, and end up in pre-positioned bags or baskets. At the same time, diseased and damaged tubers, stones, remains of tops and soil are selected (Fig. 32).
Potato sorting is made from any available material. Both old water pipes and poles are suitable for sawhorses.
Sprayer. An effective water sprayer for the garden and vegetable garden is easy to make. A brass or copper tube of suitable diameter is slightly flared on one side. On the other hand, a sprayer made of a thick lead plate is soldered to the tube. A recess is knocked out on it using a ball bearing of suitable diameter. Then a hemisphere is stamped from annealed brass or copper about 0.5 mm thick, which is cut so that it fits tightly into the tube. The holes in the sprayer are made in two steps. First, using a 1 mm drill, drill 36-40 holes into half the thickness of the metal, arranging them in a checkerboard pattern or in a spiral pattern, then use a needle to press out small holes (Fig. 32).
The sprinkler can also be made from 2 mm aluminum according to the pattern shown in the figure (dimensions in cm). A clamp is put on the end of the hose, and the sprinkler itself is hinged to it with a common bolt. The second bolt serves as the axis of the spring, the compression of which regulates the width and range of spraying when watering (Fig. 32)
Rain water supply. It makes sense to build it in a garage, poultry house, or greenhouse. It is based on rain catchment from the roof, entering a tank equipped with a tap and overflow pipe (Fig. 33). It is advisable to install a strainer in the tank funnel.
Rainwater is good for irrigation, but when combined with a solar generator, such a storage device can work to heat the same chicken coop or rabbitry in automatic mode.
A solar generator can be made from a freon capacitor from a broken home refrigerator - black metal panel on the back wall of the refrigerator. The ends of its tubes only need to be connected to a tank of water. The condenser facing the sun actively absorbs heat and provides convection of water, heating it (Fig. 33).
You can do it even simpler by painting a tank of water with black paint and covering it with a transparent cap made of glazed frames or film stretched over a frame, or plexiglass. Then neither rain nor wind will interfere with the heating of the tank by the sun (Fig. 33).
Savvy in building a house and outbuildings. When laying the ceiling and especially the roof, the issue of supplying material to the top always arises. The block, of course, can be installed. Even build a lifting platform. But how to feed boards, slats, rolls, sheets? One at a time, two at a time? In a package? How to tie a bag so that it doesn’t spill on your head?
The problem is solved by a bracket for tightening the packaged cargo, which you see in the figure. Its design is simple and reliability is guaranteed. Connected in pairs, such staples will tighten any package!
Nail to nail! It would seem, what is simpler - a nail? But there is a trick here too. If you need to prevent the structure from becoming loose, it is not at all necessary to take long nails, pierce the blocks or boards with them, and then bend the protruding ends for strength. It is easier to use a nail invented by Barnaul resident V. Mozaikov (Fig. 33), which differs from the usual one in that it is equipped with oblique notches. Such a nail easily goes into the tree, but it is no longer possible to pull it back out.
The one who takes care of the device for cleaning it will always have a clean spatula. However, tin cans can also be successfully used by painters who do not need to constantly carry the entire can of paint with them. It is enough to take a tin can, bend the top lid (not completely cut off with a can opener) into the shape of a handle, and you will get a convenient mold for paint for 10-15 brush strokes, which is enough to paint some hard-to-reach place.
You can mix the paint well using a drill with a threaded pin clamped into the chuck. A plywood or cardboard circle is placed on this pin to cover a can of paint, and a threaded lamb or snob or a thick wire nozzle is screwed onto the lower end. Now all that remains is to turn on the drill.
How to cut a slate sheet without crumbling it or chipping it at the cut? It is moistened with water. Cracked slate does not need to be painted or glued with fabric, all this is a temporary repair. Such slate will last another year, or two. It is more reliable to repair worn slate with a special mastic, which contains PVA glue, cement grade 300 and higher, fluffed asbestos and water. PVA can be replaced with frost-resistant paints (E-AK-111, E-VA-17, E-V-17, etc.), and fluffed asbestos can be replaced with sheet asbestos, grated. The repair mixture is prepared in small portions for 2-3 hours of work, mixing 1-2 parts of cement with 3 parts of fluffed asbestos. PVA glue is diluted half with water. Repair mixture should have the consistency of sour cream. Cleaned and washed slate sheets are thoroughly sanded with cloth-based sandpaper in places of cracks, primed with PVA glue (diluted 1:3 with water), all damage is coated with paste, and cracks are rubbed. It is better to do this in two layers (the second layer after the first has dried) and in cloudy weather.
Cutting tiles is not such an easy task, especially if the tiles need to be cut into strips of the same width. The best cutter is a pobedite drill, the end of which is sharpened with a “beak”. Such a cutter goes to the required depth and cuts an even groove along the entire length on both the front and back sides. Now you can lay the tile on a log block, hanging the part to be cut, and placing a strip on it, with a sharp blow break off, not forgetting to securely fasten or hold the remaining part with your hand.
Dry or wet? It’s not an idle question when it comes to talking about brickwork. If it is carried out by an experienced craftsman who knows the secrets of laying bricks “pressed” and “butted”, then he will give preference to dry bricks. And it fits tightly, does not slip, and the mitten is dry. But it is better for a beginner to lay bricks with wet bricks so that they have the opportunity to correct errors and achieve quality with accuracy and slowness. Of course, wet walls take longer to dry, but they are stronger. It’s not for nothing that ancient builders worked only using the wet method! And the ancients knew a lot about buildings...
Geometry of brickwork. There is no need to talk about this importance - violations of verticality and horizontality are equally dangerous and threaten the future home with destruction. For the “stove” from which it is customary to dance, the amateur mason must take the zero mark. It can be fixed using a flexible water level (pipette at the ends of the hose), which has already been mentioned above. Usually this is done on the foundation, on which a measuring rod will later be installed - ordering - and a cord will be pulled along which the masonry itself will go.
So, zero mark. One pipette at the end of the hose is fixed motionless on the right corner of the foundation, the other - on the left and subsequent corners. It is necessary to ensure complete coincidence of the liquid level in the pipettes and
Table 7 Determination of relative air humidity (in%)
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Wet thermometer readings |
Difference in readings between dry and wet bulb thermometers |
Note |
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The number at the intersection of the lines is an indicator of humidity. For example, while the temperature of the “dry” thermometer is 9 o. and “wet” 7, the difference in readings is 2° This means the humidity is 73% |
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fix the levels on the foundation with dashes. They will be the zero level marks.
The order is simply a strip, a corner with divisions applied at 77 mm intervals (65 mm brick thickness and 12 mm mortar joint thickness). These slats or angles are installed at the corners of the foundation and precisely fixed with zero marks. The order is secured with brackets, and the verticality is controlled by a level or plumb line.
Homemade psychrometer. To determine the humidity in the cellar and underground, which is associated with the subsequent insulation of their ceilings and improvement of waterproofing, it is good to have on hand a psychrometer - a special device made up of two alcohol thermometers. One of the thermometers is in humid environment and shows a more viscous temperature than the control. Now look at the table, which, based on the difference in readings between the “dry” and “wet” thermometers, allows you to determine the relative humidity in the air.
Spillways. Roofs must be dry even after a rainstorm. For this purpose, weirs are equipped: gutters along the edge of the roof that collect water and discharge it into the gutters. For these works it is better to use galvanized iron.
The diameter of the gutters determines the width of the workpieces, taking into account allowances in the rebate (usually 120-150 mm). The presses are sewn into a tape with a single fold, the width of the flange is marked with a thicknesser, which is done with a mallet on a workbench square, and on the first strip the flange is made at an angle of 90 degrees in one direction, on the other - in the opposite direction. All these operations are clearly visible in the figures.
The second operation is to fill the fold with a mallet at each strip. After this, the edges are brought into the lock so that they fit tightly and precisely along the entire seam. The final operation is to cut the fold, after which the seam can no longer come apart.
After sewing all the strips into a tape, it is flanged (bent) on both sides into the future gutter. This operation is carried out along the entire length. Then the gutter itself is bent using a suitable pipe. Gutters are suspended under the edge of the roof overhang on brackets with a slope for water drainage. It is better to secure the gutters with wire so that they can be removed for the winter (they can be easily damaged when removing snow from roofs)
The gutters are also made of galvanized iron. As a rule, a single fold with an undercut is used. They are bent on a mandrel pipe, just like gutters. It is better to put the drain in a barrel so that the water can be used, as shown in the pictures.
You should also take care of water stops, which in the event of slanting rain can damage not only the base of the building, but also the foundation. They are made from any iron (galvanized, of course, is better!) and attached to the wall. At the corners they are connected with a single standing lock.
Plastering works. Apply the mortar with a plaster spatula, and spread it on the wall with a falcon or trowel. But it’s rare to get an even layer; you need skill. Since a novice developer has no time and no need to acquire the skill, everything can be simplified by focusing on the solution itself and the technology of applying it to the wall.
So, before applying the solution, the wall must be prepared: cleaned of dust and possible build-up masonry mortar, and also moisten with water. A garden sprayer or sprinkler works well for this. Apply the solution better with your hands wearing rubber gloves, not a tool. It is better to apply a thick layer of plaster in two steps, allowing the bottom layer to dry and “stick” to it. Having “messed up” the solution, it must be leveled in order to have time to eliminate your own mistakes - cavities, unevenness.
Smoothness is achieved by rubbing when the plaster dries slightly. This is best done with a sponge soaked in water: the surface layer of plaster liquefies and heals the remaining scratches. A well-plastered wall “praises itself”, acquiring an even matte tone.
Strengthening reinforcement. When equipping your home with various security devices(bars on windows, etc.) it is necessary to securely fasten all fittings regardless of the material - be it brick, concrete, stone or wood. Concrete is clearly not suitable: old and new concrete are not strong when bonded to each other. It can be replaced with polymer concrete. Here is the recipe: a mixture of sand and cement (grade 300 and higher) is mixed with a liquid solution of PVA or bustilate.
A hole for the fastening element is drilled in the right place in a brick or concrete wall, priming the inner surface with a liquid solution of the glue used to make the polymer concrete. Then a portion of concrete and a fastening element are introduced into the hole. Concrete bolts, studs, rods are deformed for more reliable fixation (Fig. 33)
In wood, the reinforcement is installed on epoxy putties. Calcium carbonate, aluminum oxide, talc, graphite, fine quartz sand kaolin, ground mica
Working with glass. After many years of oblivion, stained glass is coming back into fashion - glazing made of colored glass in the form of drawings, geometric shapes, various kinds of abstractions. It is not easy to purchase ready-made colored glasses, but you can make them yourself. A gelatin coating is well suited for this; it can be easily painted in any color. Recipe: Dissolve 5 g of gelatin in 100 g of water at a temperature of 80-95". You can add any dye to this solution - ink, aniline, stir well and apply to clean, dry glass. room temperature. To protect against dampness, you can apply a layer of varnish to the dried coating or cover it with a second glass.
You can also make frosted glass for decorating your veranda yourself. There are two methods: applying liquid glass-based compositions to glass and etching glass using hydrofluoric acid. The same methods are also suitable for applying various kinds of designs and even “eternal tulle”
Matting glass using silicate stationery glue, which is liquid glass, with or without dyes, requires very careful, almost perfect application of the layer
There is an even more risky way of using liquid glass, when the design breaks off with a layer of glue, forming chips
The etching method is more complex, but will give a very good effect. 50% hydrofluoric acid is used. The glass is pre-treated, covered with a layer of paraffin, on which the future pattern is drawn. Then acid is applied in a thin layer and etched for 5-10 seconds. It is better to do this in the open air so as not to inhale harmful vapors Then the glass is washed with a soda solution
“Dry” etching is safer. The solution is prepared from 12 parts of hydrofluoric acid, 10 parts of barium sulfate and 10 parts of ammonium fluoride. This solution is poured into the drawing prepared for etching and left until dry. Then the glass is washed with soda solution. There are other etching methods.
Now let’s talk about how to cut glass correctly and avoid common mistakes.
The main condition is that the glass cutter must be in good working order and cut to the required depth, without breaking off the edge of the glass by sliding off it. To do this, it is better to grind off the body of the glass cutter, as shown in the figure.
The second trouble that awaits those working with a glass cutter is the loss of the cutting line. To prevent this from happening, a side chamfer is removed from the tool body (Fig. 34).
Tapping the glass, cut along the entire length, is carried out from below and the cut edge is broken off either with a glass cutter or pliers, but in no case by hand!
And finally, carrying sheets of glass. There are also secrets here. You can see two of them in the pictures.
Welding films. There are many ways to join polyethylene films using a soldering iron, an electric burning device, or a hot strip of metal. But it is much easier to make an attachment in the form of a rotating wheel or disk, which can be put on the soldering iron tip.
If you make the wheel stepped, then you can not only weld it, but also cut the film (Fig. 34).
Remember, this will come in handy! To prevent the edges from chipping when sawing plywood, the cut area must be wetted with hot water. >
To drive a fence post, you don't have to drill a hole or dig a hole. You need to remove the turf, water the area with water and start hammering in the post, not forgetting to constantly add new portions of water. This way you can deepen the post by 50 cm.
To cut a round stick along the end, you need to put a clamp on it with a cut for the saw, which will be the guide.
If a film has formed on the paint layer, place an old nylon stocking on it and calmly dip the brush until you have used all the paint. Then just throw the stocking away.
When preparing a solution on cement, do not mix it with a shovel. and with a pitchfork. This is both more convenient and the mixture is more homogeneous.
Pits for pillars can be made using a sharply sharpened pipe, removing soil in portions through specially made holes.
If an uneven wire is pulled through a hole in a wooden plank (the plank should be inclined in relation to the direction of the wire), it will be straightened almost perfectly.
When drilling tiles, the drill bit is moistened with turpentine, not water.
A tightly seated screw can be easily removed if the head is heated with a soldering iron.
Before painting metal objects do not forget to wipe them with a cloth soaked in vinegar.
Devices and systems. If the bottom of the door begins to cling to the floor, it is not necessary to remove it from its hinges. You need to slide a well-set carpenter's saw at an angle, stand on it with your foot and vigorously open and close the door several times.
In new houses, door frames often become loose. To secure them, you need to drill two or three holes (from top to bottom) on each side in the box and the end of the wall, hammer wooden plugs into them, and drive metal rods (preferably forged) into the plugs.
A door that does not fit tightly to the jambs is well held by a heel made from a rubber hose. When nailing it to the jamb, do not forget to place washers under the heads of the nails, otherwise they will cut through the hose and ruin all your work.
There will be less blowing from the front door if the gap between the door and the jamb on the hinge side is covered with a strip of plastic film. It can be secured with simple push pins. To prevent wind from blowing under the doors, nail a sealing bead made of a strip of cloth or other dense material onto their lower end.
A small piece of graphite placed in the crack of a raised door hinge will save you from squeaking - the graphite will be ground into powder and will serve as an excellent lubricant for the hinges for a long time.
A drop of machine oil thrown into the hinges will also get rid of squeaking.
When hanging doors, it is better to use removable hinges, which are divided into right and left. They are also convenient because a washer inserted between the hinge parts can be used to lift the door, and the hinge parts, ground at an angle, allow the door to be tightly closed and easily opened as it “rolls up.”
To prevent a wide swinging door from knocking off the plaster on the wall with its handle, you need to nail a cone-shaped stop that will secure the door. So that the same door does not damage standing nearby furniture with a jamb, you need to attach a rubber suction cup from a soap dish or an old toy to it.
If the doors swing open by themselves or close at the slightest breath of breeze, then this can only mean that the hinges are installed incorrectly. In the first case, the upper loop must be deepened, and in the second, a gasket must be placed under the loop.
Sheds, gates, wickets. They all use simple hinge mechanisms, which consist of a hook with a loop attached to it. Hinges can also be used, but they will require maintenance - lubrication, tightening the screws. There are also more closed hinge systems, widely used by our ancestors. You can see some of their varieties in the pictures. The main requirement for them is simplicity and reliability. Moreover, the structures themselves - canopies, gates and gates - are always exposed to extreme weather conditions and their main purpose is to provide shelter from rain, wind, snow for people, animals and plants.
Shutters on windows play a different role. Their hinge mechanisms, like the locking ones, must be absolutely reliable (Fig. 34). The same type of protective devices includes blinds, grilles, nets, and curtains. We do not consider their devices, but we present drawings of some of them (Fig. 35).
Window. The glass is cut so that it easily fits into the folds, filling them approximately three-quarters of the width, then the glass will not burst in a frame swollen with water.
When nailing frame studs, use a curved nail with the sharp end cut off to prevent scratching the glass.
It is more practical to insert the glass onto double putty, which with this method should be loose, in the form of a roller or strip along the entire length and width of the rebate. Glass is placed on it, pressed tightly around the entire perimeter so that between it and the sides of the folds there are no spaces not filled with putty. The putty squeezed out in this case is smoothed with a knife to a right angle or cone. This helps achieve a seal.
Twin glass (with air gap), installed in a window, reduces heat loss, reduces noise, and does not freeze in cold weather. Two glasses must be placed on top of each other through a cardboard spacer covered oil paint. You can also use a rubber gasket.
A small rectangle of cardboard, tin or other dense material, applied to the glass, when painting window frames, will protect the glass from accidental brushstrokes.
If this happens, it is best to scrape off the dried paint with a safety razor blade or cut it off with a sharpened chisel.
If you need to open the windows right away, it is better to crochet them together. You can fix the width of the opening of an open window with a hinged limiter assembled from parts of a children's construction set. You can make this stopper from elements of an old folding yardstick by tapping the rivets with a hammer and punching holes for screws or nails.
To prevent dust from accumulating in a window closed for the winter, block the gap between the inner and outer windows with a piece of thin cardboard or thick paper that matches the color of the windows, or pre-paint it - the partition will not stand out much. This will reduce the heat exchange between the frames, and the room will be ventilated faster.
Caulking and sealing windows can be combined in one operation. Warm up a syringe without a needle and paraffin (candle) in hot water (not lower than 70°). Draw paraffin into the syringe and fill all the cracks with it from top to bottom.
Locks and constipations. In addition to locks, temporary and permanent locks are installed in houses: bolt-on bolts, latches, turntables, embedded slats or beams.
There is no point in describing them - they are known to everyone. But in some cases, these locks go well with both overhead and internal locks, not to mention padlocks.
Thus, no one can open a rim lock with a retractable bolt in combination with an ordinary window latch (Fig. 34) with a key while you are at home. No one will enter the house if the door, in addition to the lock, is also closed with a chain or a latch.
It is impossible to knock down the door if it is placed against the stop, as can be seen in the figure.
There are reliable locks that secure the locks. One of them is the “secret” latch shown in the picture. It works on the principle of a French lock, where the cylinder 1 moves freely in the cage 2. The spring 3 with the rod 4 fixed in the handle 5 allows the cylinder 1 to snap onto the eye 6. The rod 7 from a reliable nylon cord is thrown over the pulleys and ends in a disguised handle or pedal , with which you can easily open the door from the outside.
Using this type it is possible to develop own designs hidden constipation.
A reliable method of protection is to jam the lock itself with a plate resembling a broken key. Without knowing the secret, you can't get her out. And the secret may lie in a special slot or drilled hole through which the wedge is removed with a paper clip or a piece of wire. You can also insert a plate without grips, but then it is removed with a thin file from a jigsaw. By the way, you can also remove really broken keys with a saw.
Doorbells. It is known that an electric bell is an annoying and quite noisy thing. The harshness of the sound can be reduced by gluing a strip of adhesive tape between the hammer and the striker, but the timbre... However, the craftsmen found a way out here too, proposing to install a bicycle bell on the door instead of an electric one, passing a string from its tongue through a pre-drilled hole in the door and jamb .
This principle can be used to install other signaling devices: gongs, bells, hammers, etc.
All a painter needs is ingenuity! Paint brushes are an eternal problem: both buying and storing after work is not easy. And their variety is so great that you literally get lost: do you need so many brushes? Unfortunately, it is necessary. There are no universal ones and each is designed for its own type of work (Fig. 36, 37).
However, you can make most of the brushes yourself and it’s quite simple: take a piece of sponge or nylon threads, tie them with twine or wire, put them on a stick, chop them off with an ax - and that’s it. As in the picture, for example.
Many of the brushes can successfully replace foam rollers and even a vacuum cleaner with a spray gun!
So, brushes. Hair from paint brush will not fall out and remain on the surface to be painted if you drill a hole in the holder (crimp ring) and put a few drops of waterproof glue inside. By combining a spatula and a brush, you get a universal tool for removing smudges and putty residues. To do this, you need to saw through the handle of the brush and insert an iron plate into it, securing it securely. To whitewash the ceiling you need a brush with a long handle. An ordinary brush is placed on a long stick, the end of which is cut off at an angle of 30° and a piece of rubber hose is put on, in which two holes are made for the handle of the brush. This is much more reliable than just tying the brush. To prevent paint from dripping off your brush, place half a rubber ball on the handle. A cardboard screen rolled into a cone will also perform the same task. The seam of the cone must be coated with plasticine.
An ordinary shoe brush can serve as a wide brush.
Foam brushes are good. They do not leave streaks because they absorb paint well.
How to paint? Firstly, there is no need to open windows and doors or create drafts. Prepare all painted surfaces for work in advance: remove sconces and chandeliers, paintings and carpets, move or remove furniture, and repair cracks. First of all, the ceiling is painted. Apply a copper layer of paint or whitewash towards the window. Whitewash on a slightly moistened surface - better ceiling pre-wash with warm water and table salt (50-100 g of salt per 10-liter bucket) Apply any paint in a thin layer: 2-3 layers are always stronger than one thick one.
Start painting with a few cross strokes and then rub them in. Do not put a lot of paint on your brush and roller, so as not to paint yourself.
When finished, wash and dry your brushes thoroughly.
Bcl about paint. No matter how tightly you cover the paint can, small holes will still remain. To get rid of them, turn the jar upside down for a second. The paint will fill these holes, and the contents of the can will no longer be affected by air.
Dipping a roller or brush directly into a can of paint is hardly advisable. It is easier to use some kind of mesh, loosely stretched over a jar and tied with twine. It can be gauze, nylon, metal mesh. It not only dispenses paint, but also eliminates the need to filter it if a film has formed in the paint.
Rollers. It is advisable to paint large surfaces (floor, walls, ceiling) with a roller. However, before you put it to work, you need to paint with a brush the places where you can’t turn around with a roller.
It's easy to make your own paint roller. To do this, it is enough to carve a round blank and cover it with foam rubber, faux fur or other fleecy material. Carefully tuck the ends in and make the seam neat. Bend a hook from thick wire, the axis of which should be longer than the roller. A hole in the roller can be burned or drilled. Bend the end of the hook or cut a thread for the nut. Place a handle on the other end of the hook. Other options are also possible (Fig. 35).
Take note. Adhesives are divided into three groups: animal origin, plant origin and synthetic resin adhesives. The first group includes bone, casein, milk casein, casein with borax, casein with ammonia solution, casein with slaked lime, casein with caustic soda, gelatin waterproof, for glass and porcelain on egg white. Here are three recipes without additives, the use of which will be specified in the note.
Bone glue. Available in tiles and granules. 400 g of glue must be melted in a water bath in 2.25 liters of water and mixed with 80 g of dextrin, 30 g of sugar and 110 g of glycerin. If you add 130 g of nigrosin, the glue will turn black. Used for gluing joinery products.
Casein glue. Mix 300 g of casein with 40 g of sodium fluoride, 120 g of powdered slaked lime, 30 g of borax or soda ash. When mixed with water, this mixture thickens slowly and has high adhesive properties. Casein glue can be used to glue plastic to wood.
Gelatin waterproof glue. Dissolve 100 g of gelatin in 500 ml of warm water. Separately, dissolve 70-80 g of potassium dichromate in 250-300 ml of water. Heat both solutions to a temperature of 30-35° and mix. The resulting glue is used when gluing plywood with plastic, glass with wood, oilcloth with brick. Additions of ammonia, caustic soda and slaked lime prevent it from setting quickly and strengthen the glued seams.
Adhesives of plant origin include: dextrin, light stationery, dextrin-starch, potato starch and mixtures thereof. Here are two recipes for making glue.
Light office glue. Dissolve 10 g of borax in 200 ml of warm water. Add 100 g of dextrin to the solution while stirring. Cook the resulting mass for several minutes, then add 10 g of hydrogen peroxide. The hot solution must be filtered. The glue is suitable not only for working with papers, but also for small carpentry work.
Adhesive for glass, paper, porcelain and leather. Stir 50 g of crushed and sifted quicklime, 10 g of flour and 5 g of linseed oil until the mixture turns into a thick viscous mass.
There are many synthetic adhesives. Let's focus on two of them: rubber and liquid glass. Although both are sold ready-made, they can also be made at home. Especially rubber. To do this, just put 10 g of finely chopped rubber (raw rubber) in a jar and pour in 100 g of benzene. Close the jar tightly. After the rubber has dissolved, the glue is ready for use.
Now about putties. Since many of them are made with adhesives, we can only talk about fillers. They most often are chalk, cement, gypsum, asbestos. But there are putties that themselves act as glue and are used when working with metal, glass, wood, rubber, leather, and linoleum.
Here are some recipes.
Finely chopped linoleum is poured with acetone. After 5-6 hours the putty is ready. Putty can be used to coat cracks in the floor, repair an aquarium, and seal pipe joints.
Mix 200 g of lead sulfate with a solution of 50 g of glycerin and 50 ml of water. Mix everything vigorously. Since the mixture hardens quickly, it must be used immediately. It is suitable for working with metal, glass, wood, stone, brick.
Melt 200 g of finely chopped rubber and 175 g of rosin in an enamel bowl in a water bath.
Add 125 g of linseed oil to the cooled mixture. Stir the mixture until smooth. The resulting putty is waterproof. It can be used for gluing rubber tires on leather base and for shoe repair. Used hot
How to measure timber? After all, it is not sold by piece or by weight, and the technique for measuring volumes is quite complex, even regulatory authorities are not always able to check the accuracy of release from a base or warehouse." We will try to help you.
The volume of the slab, according to the rules, is pre-sorted by length into two groups (up to 2 m and over) and placed in a stack with the thin and thick ends alternately, and the slab surface up and down. Short ones are stacked with docking. The stack must have the same height, as well as right angles and the most dense packing. After this, by multiplying the average height of the package by the length and width, its cubic capacity is determined. In this regard, there are the concepts of dense and folded cubic meters, which, according to the conversion factor, are translated into the concept of dense mass. For croaker, this coefficient is 0.48
The volume of lumber of softwood and deciduous species is determined in two ways: by measurement and by calculation Or using the Gostov cubic meter, where there are the necessary tables of volumes of one meter of length and pieces. For example, you need to find the volume of 70 edged boards with a thickness of 22 mm, a width of 125 mm and a length of 4 .5 m. According to the table, this is 0.01238 m 3. Multiply by the number of boards and get 0.8666 m 3
As for measuring unedged lumber, there is its own specificity; the width of an unedged and edged board is determined as half the sum of the width of two layers measured in the middle of the board without bark
Round timber is also measured in accordance with GOST by the thickness of the upper end and the length of the log. Thus, a log with an upper diameter of 18 cm and a length of 6 mm has a volume of 0 194 m 3 Therefore, they only need to be counted and multiplied. Moreover, logs larger than 16 cm are classified as sawlogs, and they have a different price
Fig 20. Simple crafts.
And the uprooter; B ax blade; V. G planted with overlays; D simple vagterpass. E plumb line; F hose with pipettes (a simple and accurate level meter, two accurate on a plane); 3 spray bottle; (1 shovel; K simple barometer tree
Rice. 30. Pipe connection options:
A - cap lock (1 - coupling, 2 - flange, 3 - rubber gasket, 4 - pipe, 5 - clamp loop, 6 - coupling bolt); B - quick-release lock (1 - half coupling, 2 - tooth for the carabiner loop, 3 - loop, 4 - carabiner, 5 - hinge, 6 - pipe, / - flange, 8 - rubber gasket); B - “spherical” joint (L - pipes, hoses, 2 - hemisphere, 3 - rubber gasket, 4 - pin); D - one-bolt joining option* (1 - pipes, 2 - mating heads, 3 - coupling bolt, 4 - rubber gasket).
Rice. 31. Hand seeder:
1 - wheel, 2 - seeding roller, 3 - tubular handle, 4 - bracket, 5 - wooden pads, b - rubber tube, 7 - coupling bolt, 8 - locking bolt, 9 - coulter, 10 - handle, 11 - coupling bolt , 12 - steel plate, B - closing loop.
A - articulated harrow (1 - frame, 2 - teeth, 3 - deflecting lever, 4 - rod, 5 - hydraulic cylinder); b - tuning unit (1 - frame, 2 - drum with tuning pegs, 3 - transmission chain, 4 - sprocket, 5 - transmission from the engine); B - rotary harrow (1 - frame bar, 2 - spoke comb); G - potato sorting; D - sprinkler; E - sprayer (1 - assembled apparatus, 2 - mandrel for pressing out the sieve).
A - bracket for tightening loads (1 - body, 2 - adjustable bracket, 3 - stops, 4 - roller with spring, 5 - spring, 6 - cable, 7 - hook loop, 8 - lever, 9 - fixed fastening of the pass loop, i.0 - removable fastening of the loop for threading the cable); B - solar generator (glazed black tank; C - solar generator from a refrigerator condenser; D - rain collector for the garage; D - hose-level for marking the “zero” mark; E - fastening the grating reinforcement (1 - fastening in concrete or brick wall, 2 - mounting in a wooden wall); F - fastening the grille plate on pins; 3 - nail with herringbone notches.
Rice. 34. Hinges
GA - canopy, B - wedge, B - joint, G - ring, D - lock, B - ball, F - corner, 3 - seam, I - spring); K - shutters (1 - shutter hinges, 2 - temporary fastening, 3 - through splinter with pin, 4 - narthex strip); L - lock with latch; M - welding and cutting of film; N - secret latch (H - lock, 2 - body, 3 - spring rod (4) on the stop connected to the latch (5), 6 - entrance for locking, 7 - nylon cord that opens the latch); O - example of sharpening a glass cutter so as not to break the edge of the glass; P - sharpening sample for marking; P - transfer of glass “by hand to the thing”; C - carrying glass on the shoulder (be sure to put a strip or cardboard under the twine).
A - blinds; B, C, D, D - lattices (beam, ring, geometric and patterned); E - door on stop; F - mesh on the window; 3 - whitewash brush on a long stick; I - rollers
for painting.
Rice. 36. Paint brushes.
Rice. 37. Homemade brushes.