Causes and solutions for eliminating sagging paving slabs. Garden paths. Materials, designs and purpose Is it possible to make garden paths without a border?

First, let's highlight 3 of their categories.

III - category - trails. As the name implies, these paths are trampled by feet and compacted by the wheels of a wheelbarrow or car. The soil on the path is dense and, as a rule, sagging. Therefore, trails are often a collection point for storm and melt water, that is, potential puddles. Plantain, horse sorrel and “thorns” grow here, the seeds of which are spread throughout the area.

To turn such a “traditional path” into a convenient path, it is first necessary to ensure the drainage of standing water from it. To do this, the contour of the path is leveled: the holes are filled in, and the mounds are cut off. The path itself (if the parent soil is loamy) is sanded, that is, sand is brought in and driven into the ground. Sometimes crushed stone is added with sand.

The next step is to line the path with soil-retaining plants (for example, low clover) or install a mixborder. By the way, this is how the paths near the house of Maria Theresa in Versailles (France) were made - simply, but tastefully.

II - I category - paths with a backfill base. These are traditional paths on cultivated garden plots. When constructing them, a bed is dug to a depth of 10 cm. The bottom and sides are covered with geotextile with a density of 150 - 200 g/m2 as a barrier to roots herbaceous plants. The sides of the bed can also be additionally secured with curb tape. The entire bed (up to the soil level) is covered with crushed stone (but not limestone), pebbles or screenings.

As decorative elements On top you can lay individual paving slabs, processed scraps of wooden beams, and flagstone stones. These elements are buried in the backfill layer, and they should not rise above the path or above the soil. With another method of constructing such paths, the decorative coating is more or less tightly adjusted to each other. In this case, the bed is deepened by 5 - 10 cm and a sand cushion is arranged.

Decorative coating

Decorative coating ( paving stones, tiles, flagstone) are usually laid above the soil level, and the edges are sometimes secured with a border, which is made from curb stone, flagstone cuts, paving slabs, garden board and cobblestones. But usually they do without a border, placing a lawn close to the path, or laying out a mixed border. The seams between the covering elements are filled with sand (backfilling with sand - cement mixture in this case does not make sense) and is sown with dwarf lawn grass.

If a “Swiss path” is being built (1 step - 1 stone), then a sand cushion is prepared under each of the stones, placing them at the soil level.

Paths with a solid poured base

Usually they are built where a large load is expected on them. Such tracks are also called “capital”. Let's look at their device in a little more detail.

When constructing such paths, a bed approximately 15 cm deep is dug.

In places where it is low, that is, where rain or melt water will accumulate, it is drained (otherwise the path in this place may break). Sand is poured into the bed, leveled, spilled and compacted. The height of this drainage layer should be about 5 cm. The sides of the bed are framed with border tape, and if there is none, then with old linoleum or roofing felt cut into strips.

Usually such a foundation is made at ground level. If they want to raise the path significantly, then strips of plywood or boards, respectively fixed, are used as formwork. To avoid rupture, the concrete base itself is either reinforced or thermal joints are installed every 1.5 - 2 m. The second solution is cheaper, but in the spring there is a danger that the improvised concrete slabs will rise or sag relative to each other.

This will not happen with reinforcement concrete base. You just need to remember that armored bed nets, chain-link mesh, bicycle frames and other similar rubbish, which “zealous” owners often “roll” into concrete, are completely unsuitable as reinforcement. It is necessary to reinforce with a rod 05 - 8 mm or road maps- grids welded from 05 mm rod with dimensions of 0.5x2 m and with cells of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. The reinforcement is placed on “chanterelle” stands, for which fragments of bricks or blocks are suitable. They are necessary so that after pouring the reinforcement is embedded in the thickness of the concrete.

The concrete is placed in a bed, leveled and compacted moderately. If there is not enough concrete for the entire path, a crossbar made of boards is installed at the end of the pouring, so that the concrete ends in an even “cut”, without sagging.

When pouring a new batch of concrete, the cross member is removed.

This is how the entire base is gradually made, and after the concrete has set, a decorative covering (paving stones, tiles, natural stone) and, if necessary, a curb. Usually, in its final form, the track surface is 3 - 5 cm above the soil level, which provides protection against soil washing on it. You can use a curb stone or cobblestone as a border.

Materials for designing paths should be combined with the style of the house and the surrounding landscape

All functional areas of the site must be interconnected by a well-thought-out network of garden paths. This will allow you to quickly reach your desired location. When taking into account the composition of the soil, topography, landscape style of the garden and architectural style Houses. Their optimal quantity depends on the financial capabilities of the site owners, installation technology and operating conditions. After placing all the main objects on preliminary design They draw a plan of paths, then make markings.

The direction of movement along garden paths is thought out so that they can be easily accessed by everyone. functional areas or to a focal point. The main garden path and walking paths are made smooth or straight, depending on the style and size of the site. The angles of their intersection should be smooth or approach straight lines - for ease of maintenance and for comfortable movement.

The direction of movement is thought out in advance so that you can easily get to any focal point

Design of garden paths

They start by preparing the base, then lay the covering and, if planned, install curbs; the material for the paths must be durable, soft and elastic when walking. In addition, it must have a rough surface so that you can move safely during rain or ice. To avoid stagnation of water on the paths, the coating is made with a slope of 2% from the center to the edges. Watercourses are also placed at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from the main road and 15 - 30 cm from the paths. If the terrain does not allow paths on both sides, you can make a slope in one direction. The standard width of the main road is 1.2 - 2 m, paths range in width from 40 to 70 cm.

Curbs

Necessary to strengthen the edges and give clarity to the boundaries of the paths. They are made of brick, stone, wooden blocks or concrete, and the material used does not necessarily have to match the texture of the path itself. The border is buried 10 - 15 cm into the ground, leaving about 10 cm of soil surface. If the site is sandy, you can make a border from natural stone. It is installed at a certain depth, covered with earth and compacted, while wetting it with water. On other pounds, a sand or concrete base is made. Wooden borders are prepared from logs with a diameter of 8-11 cm. They are pre-treated against rotting protective agent, and the upper cut is made oblique so that water does not stagnate on it.

Garden path materials

They must be combined with the materials from which the house and small architectural forms are made, as well as with the plants on the site. When designing the road network, natural and artificial materials are used. Natural coatings are made from untreated stone - sandstone, limestone, slate, granite, and processed stone - sawn or crushed basalt and pebbles. They make strong and wear-resistant slabs and paving stones. Porous materials and wooden cuts are treated with a special water-repellent agent before installation. Artificial turf has some advantages over natural material: it is cheaper and easier to install. In addition, due to the fact that artificial material is easy to process, it can be used to implement various design solutions.

Paths made of rubble, hewn or crushed cobblestones are durable and decorative. The base for them is calculated based on the operational load and the purpose of using the paths. Sandy base under flat stones they are buried by 5 - 10 cm, under rubble - depending on the size of the largest stones. The gaps are filled with fine stones and filled with mortar, and the joints are made flush with the coating. Stone paths intended for the passage of cars are made on a concrete base. First, remove the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm, then fill it with crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, compact it and moisten it with water. After this, concrete 5-10 cm thick is poured and the surface is leveled. The stone is placed on cement, the gaps are filled with mortar and expanded, and the mortar must be flush or higher than the stones so that cracks do not form after winter. Natural stone must be cleaned or washed before use.

To lay paths in this way, first remove the soil to a depth of 15 - 25 cm, then fill it with sand, spill it with water layer by layer and compact it. After this, wooden cuts 10–20 cm high are installed, and the gaps between them are filled with sand. In order for the tree to last longer, the underground parts must be pre-treated with a special antiseptic impregnation, tarred or charred. This will help protect the coating from moisture and rotting.

Modern paving slabs often imitate natural material, and convenient connections allow you to combine its various elements. This coating is easy to maintain, durable, does not heat up and does not emit harmful fumes, and excess moisture seeps through tile joints. If the need arises, the tiles can be completely or partially dismantled and then re-installed. The base is prepared for such paths: for gravel-sand paths, 15 cm of gravel and 5 cm of sand are poured, and for concrete paths, depending on the purpose of the coating. Each layer is leveled and compacted. After laying, the seams are sprinkled with a dry mixture, the excess is removed and the slabs are spilled with water.

When installing a monolithic concrete pavement, first lay out the paths, then remove upper layer soil, and the remaining soil is compacted. The formwork is installed so that the upper edge protrudes 5-6 cm above the soil, and only then is leveled using a cord. At the joints of boards or bars, pegs are driven into the ground. Also, slats are installed perpendicular to the formwork, at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured 10 cm deep, compacted and filled with concrete.

Paths from concrete slabs created in two ways. The sand base is made 10-12 cm thick, the slabs are placed close to each other, with seams 0.5-0.7 cm. On the crushed stone base, the slabs are laid on the mortar, with seams 1-1.5 cm. The evenness of the seams is checked using a tensioned cord and building level. The front surface of the slabs should rise 3-4 cm above the ground, since over time the path will sag. Paving can be decorated with pebbles or ceramic tiles.

Paths from clinker bricks comfortable and practical, as this material is wear-resistant and moisture-resistant. The brick is laid on a layer of sand or crushed stone using a mortar. Sand and crushed stone are poured into a prepared soil trough in a layer of 10 cm and compacted. If the area is swampy, peaty, with loess or subsidence soils, a reinforced concrete pad 8 cm thick is placed on top of the crushed stone. Then a prawn is laid and leveled. Next, lay the brick and, leveling it strictly horizontally using a building level, spill it with water. After setting, the masonry is covered with a layer of sand 2 cm thick, and the excess is removed. Along the edges of the paths, a border of bricks is installed, located at an angle or on an edge.

Step-by-step paths can be installed on the lawn. On the site, grass is cut out according to the size of the tiles and the material is installed below the grass level on sand or gravel. This will make mowing the lawn convenient. It is possible to install the tiles on a sand cushion. In this case, the seams are filled with earth and lawn grass is sown, while maintaining a distance between the centers of the tiles of about 60-65 cm.

Bulk paths are made of pebbles, stone chips, marble or granite screenings, bark or gravel. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. It is advisable to fence the embankment paths with a border, since, for example, tree bark can be blown by the wind, and crushed stone and gravel can creep away. Geotextiles are also laid on the base to protect the coating from root growth.

Bulk paths are made if they will not bear heavy loads, and various materials are used. The main advantage of bulk coatings is that water does not stagnate on them and that they can be very decorative.

Step 1 To estimate the shape and bends of the path on the ground, it is convenient to use a hose

Step 2 Mark the final boundaries of the path by placing paving slabs along its edges

Step 3 Dig a bed for the path about 5 cm deep. Along its edges, hammer the curb flush with the lawn using a rubber mallet

Step 4 Place spunbond at the bottom of the recess. It should be thick enough. Apply coating over spunbond

We combine materials for garden paths

Garden paths can be made from different materials, combining them in size, color and texture, or use one type of material, but in different colors. An interesting texture is obtained by grouping large or small rectangular slabs with round, small slabs of irregular shape, stones and wood.

Options for paving garden paths

In order for garden paths to last a long time, the covering material is chosen depending on their purpose. For example, for the entrance area and main roads, a concrete foundation reinforced with a road mesh is installed. For secondary paths, a soft base is sufficient, since the load on them is minimal.

Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

First, a layer of crushed stone with sand 12-15 cm thick is poured, then a layer of gritsovka 7-10 cm thick is poured. Each of them is carefully compacted, then the tiles are laid. The gaps between the tiles are filled with grout and watered.

Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

Laying wooden cuts on a soft base

Crushed stone is poured into the prepared base with a depth of 20-25 cm, and a layer of sand 7-10 cm thick is poured on top. Each layer is compacted and saw cuts 3-5 cm thick are laid. The space between the cuts is filled with sand or earth.

Laying wooden cuts on a soft base

Laying soft stones on a concrete base

To lay paths, you can use flagstone made of dolomite, sandstone or limestone. The gaps between the plates should be no larger than 5 mm. The best binding material in this case is a cement screed with the addition of special glue.

Laying soft rocks stone on concrete base

Laying rigid materials on a concrete base

Lightly moistened grout is poured on top of the concrete base. Each tile is temporarily laid in place, then removed and a thin layer of cement is added. The elements are re-laid, tamped, and the seams are covered with a bead and watered.

Laying rigid materials on a concrete base

Garden plot design in country house It’s impossible to imagine without beautifully designed paths. Garden paths not only perform a functional role, visually delimiting zones (lawns for games, flower beds, decorative plantings, etc.), but also serve as a decorative element themselves. To increase the service life of the coating and to accentuate the paths, curbs are used, which can be made from various materials. The type of border is determined by the overall design of the garden and the shape of the paths. Some curbs may protrude significantly, while others are barely noticeable. In any case, their presence is mandatory. This article will focus on borders for garden paths.

Types and features of curbs for paths

The following borders are used to design garden paths: plastic, metal, concrete and brick, wood, wicker, stone, and living plants. Each type has its own characteristics and difficulties in application. To choose a specific material, you need to focus on the style of the tracks ( a natural stone, paving slabs, cement coating, crushed stone, wood flooring) and the proposed installation technique.

Plastic borders the most versatile, harmonizes well with different styles. Big choice color design allows you to create original design. They are indispensable when edging curved paths with flexible, smooth lines. The advantages of plastic are its high durability and corrosion resistance, as well as the relatively affordable cost of the material. For self-installation plastic borders are best suited as they are very easy to install.
Metal borders made from of stainless steel or, as a more expensive option, made of copper and aluminum. Suitable for designing smooth paths with straight turns. They go well with their crushed stone paths.
Concrete curbs They look good only with straight paths. When installing, they require certain skills, and the process itself will take a little longer than in other cases.
Brick borders quite common and easy to install. Used as a horizontal arrangement facing bricks, and laying with a slope (in the form of teeth). This type of edging can hardly be called practical and durable. In areas with heavy and frequent rainfall, brick quickly deteriorates and crumbles. However, this material is ideally combined with paving stones and looks especially advantageous in a design made in the English style.

Border photo

Wooden borders are considered the least durable. They require annual maintenance, which consists of priming and painting. Untreated boards or old slats should not be used for these purposes. Such savings will quickly remind you of themselves. The average service life of wooden borders does not exceed 10 years. However, this is the cheapest and simplest design option. Such borders are usually used in rustic style or, if desired, create a distinctly simple design.
Wicker borders They are made from willow branches and serve rather a decorative function. They will not be able to become an obstacle to lawn grass or block the flow of rainwater. This romantic design is more suitable for flower beds or simple garden paths.
A natural stone is a leader in design. It is both practical and decorative material. Only its price can repel many connoisseurs of natural beauty. To make borders, shell rock (cheaper), sandstone, granite and marble are used. An alternative could be various artificial imitations of natural stone.

Hedges will always remain favorites landscape design. There is a list of special border flowering or ornamental plants. These include perennial low-growing and beautifully flowering bergenia, bellflower, canna, primrose, gaillardia, hellebore, hosta, kniphofia and many others. Creating living borders is quite interesting. It is important to consider color contrast and plant architecture.

Installation of plastic curbs for paths

Laying plastic curbs does not require significant preparatory work associated with digging a trench, concreting the base or spreading non-woven material.
They start by determining the contours of the path and the desired height of the curb. Manufacturers provide with outside element hole for fastening pegs or anchors. This fastening reliably fixes the curb and does not require special devices, except for a hammer for driving in metal stakes.

The plastic easily fits and bends, repeating the most masterly curves. When the curbs are secured, the paths are laid. If gravel, paving stones or stone are used, the border can be completely hidden to create a contrasting line with greenery and flowers. In this case, the structure will reliably perform its functions of protecting the coating.

Installation of concrete curbs

Concrete curbs are designed to withstand high loads, so their installation requires strong fixation.
First, a trench is dug along the contour of the path (its depth will depend on the depth of the concrete stones). Next, the trenches are filled with a solution (one part cement and 3 parts sand), leveled and stones are immersed in it close to the edge of the path. The solution should not be too liquid, as the stone will float and it will be impossible to fix it.

After installing several stones, you will need to return to the first one and begin fixing it with an additional layer of cement at several points. Ideally, the curb should protrude by 5 cm. After the solution hardens, the outer side of the trench is covered with earth or sand. This design will last a long time, maintaining its original appearance.
You can use self-made stones for the border, but it is better to purchase ready-made elements with a guarantee of quality from the manufacturer.

Laying natural stone borders

This type of border does not require a trench, but you will need to remove a thin layer of soil to lay the non-woven material.
Large stones are placed tightly on the “bedding” directly. Large gaps between them are filled with smaller pebbles. Finally, all voids are filled with dry cement.

At first glance, such work seems simple and uncomplicated. However, it requires certain skills and patience.

General rules for installing borders

In order for the path to retain its shape and aesthetic appearance for a long time, it is necessary to avoid gross mistakes when installing curbs. So where do you start work, and what stages can be identified?
When marking the contours of the path, stakes are driven in, along which a construction cord is pulled; it will indicate the upper boundary of the curb element. When installing each subsequent element of the curb, you should check its correct level position.
It is undesirable to fill cracks in structures with cement, as this can lead to expansion and disruption of the integrity of the curb under the influence of water and frost. It is safer if water does not linger in small spaces.

Original do-it-yourself borders

To independently cast concrete curb elements, special polymer molds are purchased. The length of garden forms does not exceed 50 cm, which is very convenient for subsequent installation. Sold on the market garden forms a variety of configurations and sizes. They are suitable for reusable use if washed with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution. Mechanical cleaning of concrete residues in case of sticking is not allowed.

By purchasing molds for casting, you can significantly save on arranging your personal plot, since ready-made border elements are much more expensive. However self-production will take a lot of time and require knowledge proper preparation solution.
For the concrete mixture, high grade cement is used (preferably 500), with four parts sand to one part of cement. Water is added to the consistency of village sour cream. For uniform and quick mixing, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If you want to get a painted border, you can add a special dye to the solution. The result will be a truly original design.
When pouring the solution into molds, it is necessary to ensure that air bubbles are removed, which reduce the strength of the product. The casting platform must be perfectly level (checked by level) and free of foreign objects. After a few hours, the solution will harden and you can carefully release the molds for a new batch. A day later, after additional drying, the borders are ready for installation.

The clear contours of the paths should be combined with the design of flower beds and play areas. Filling forms allow you to come up with different color solutions, delimiting zones while maintaining style.
The design and installation of borders requires creative approach. Even inexpensive material and simple design can look very attractive if everything is selected and done with taste. If time permits, you can do all the work yourself. Hiring specialists, the owner country house expands styling options and the flight of your fantasies, but this will require additional funds.

There are many options for edging garden paths; all you need to do is use a little creativity to create a unique one. harmonious design fairy garden. Well-groomed, clean paths without soil from the site will delight both the owner and anyone who decides to walk along them.

Garden paths, the creation of which every owner suburban area invests a lot of time and money, will be short-lived and unfinished without a border. garden border necessary to protect paths from pollution, to prevent them from spreading and becoming overgrown with grass, to prevent soil erosion and to support the specified path geometry. In addition, the border often serves a purely decorative function, and sometimes the fences of garden paths are made identical, maintaining the general style of the site. The border for garden paths can be made using ready-made purchased materials, or it can be created from scrap items. There is plenty to choose from.

No. 1. Plastic border

Plastic border can be called universal solution for any area, since it can be either completely discreet and unnoticeable, or decorative. Main advantages plastic border for:

Flaw only one is a synthetic material, but there will be no harm to humans and the plants being grown. In terms of strength and durability, plastic is naturally inferior to stone.

Plastic borders presented on this moment in construction stores, can be divided into the following kinds:

continuous flexible roll tape, most of which will be in the ground. Such a border will be almost invisible, which means it can frame a path on a site made in any style. It copes with its direct tasks: it prevents the path from spreading and prevents the germination of lawn grass. This tape can be used to frame paths of the most winding shapes, but the border will not serve a decorative function;
sectional borders. Each section has special elements that facilitate installation. You can eventually assemble a nice decorative border from them;
ready fencing a certain shape can imitate tiles or other materials.

Installation of plastic curbs is a simple process and, as a rule, involves the use of special anchor pins. Latest for different types soils must be different: for soft ground Wooden ones are suitable, metal ones are suitable for rocky ones. It is better not to use a plastic border to frame stone paths.

No. 2. Concrete curb

In most areas, garden paths are framed with a concrete border. It owes its popularity to its strength characteristics and relative cheapness, as well as the possibility of making it yourself. Concrete curbing is an excellent option for edging, stone, paving stones and asphalt.

Main advantages:

Among shortcomings heavy weight and a meager selection of ready-made borders, as well as relatively labor-intensive work to prepare the soil for installation of such a border. They are sold in several sizes; they can be laid on the edge or on the wide side. If you are not satisfied with the size, shape or appearance of the finished concrete blocks, you can make your own border using ready-made or . You will need to prepare the solution and pour it into the workpieces, and after waiting for complete hardening, use the resulting product for its intended purpose. it will be possible to paint the mass in the desired color or decorate it with pebbles, shells, small stones, pieces of glass, and prints to give the boring material a unique appearance.

A concrete curb, whether purchased or made by hand, is heavy, so preparatory work due attention should be paid - the durability of the structure depends on them. You will need to dig a trench about 20 cm deep, fill it, compact it and fill it up. The latter is watered with water and also thoroughly compacted, after which a cement mortar is poured into which the curb elements are immersed. Using a rubber hammer, they are leveled to the required level; the remainder can be poured into the joints. A concrete curb can also be installed in parallel with the creation of a garden path.

Another option for arranging a concrete curb is pouring concrete using formwork. The process is reminiscent of preparing a tape, it saves time, but the border obtained in this way will have low decorative qualities. Work begins with digging a trench of the required depth and width, then installing the formwork. A sanded board will do for its manufacture, but if you plan to create a path with curves, then it is better to use plastic, MDF or steel. The formwork is fixed with pegs and then filled with cement mortar prepared in or independently using any suitable container. Now all that remains is to level the surface, and after the concrete has hardened, you can remove the formwork and cut expansion joints in increments of 100-150 cm to prevent cracking. While the concrete is curing, you can decorate it with pebbles, pieces or mosaics. Such curbs can be used for bulk, asphalt or paths made from scrap materials.

No. 3. Metal border

Metal borders are considered one of the strongest and most durable borders. It can be made from stainless steel, aluminum or copper, and have the shape of ribbons or rods. Ribbons, like its plastic counterpart, serve as an invisible fence for the path. They are buried at least 10 cm into the ground, and can rise above the surface level by no more than 2 cm. Metal strips retain the shape of the path, prevent grass from growing, while remaining invisible. Fencing made of metal rods has more of a decorative function: forged elements, for example, can have common features with forged curbs of the paths, allowing you to perceive the site as something harmonious and made in one piece.

Main advantages:

high strength and durability;
resistance to a wide range of temperatures;
excellent preservation of the shape of the track;
easy installation;
the ability to use to design paths with a winding shape.

Among cons only the price, so if it is necessary to arrange curbs invisible to the eye, the choice often falls on plastic.

No. 4. Wooden border

Wood can be used to create paths in one of many options: boards, bars, pegs or saw cuts. Ready-made borders can be found in the store; they are easy to make yourself, and you can even use leftover lumber. Wooden edging is best suited for bordering wooden walkways or bark walkways.

Main advantages:

A wooden border will perfectly cope with its direct functions, but it the main disadvantage is low durability. Wood needs to be processed protective compounds before installation, and then regularly during the operation of the curb, but it is still unlikely to last more than 10 years. Installation will require minimal effort: make a trench, organize a drainage pad and lay.

Separately worth noting wicker borders, which are made from wicker, but they serve primarily a decorative role, so it is better to combine them with plastic or metal tape to maintain the shape of the path.

No. 5. Brick border

To arrange the border you can use inexpensive sandstone, limestone or shell rock, or more expensive marble or granite. In any case, a stone border will be a beautiful design for a path made of tiles, stone and even concrete. Among the disadvantages of this type of border heavy weight and high price. To make this stylish design of garden paths accessible to a larger circle of people, some manufacturers offer fake diamond, designed specifically for arranging paths.

Installing a stone border is a simple and quick process. In addition to digging a pit, creating a drainage layer and compacting it, it is necessary to use agrofibre so that grass does not subsequently grow through the stones. The stones are installed close to each other, and a finer fraction can be used in the gaps.

No. 7. "Green" border

The border of the path can be decorated with plants. It will look very beautiful, but when deciding on this option, it is worth remembering that you will need to make great efforts both at the stage of creating the border and in the process of maintaining it to maintain the proper appearance. A “green” border can serve decorating paths made of stone or gravel. It is planted according to the same principle as hedge, but it is better to select plants of small height.

Typically, plants such as boxwood and cotoneaster are used; lavender, bergenia, sage, cloves and some others are also suitable. The height of such a border should not be more than 30 cm, and the width should be around 25-30 cm. Caring for a “living” border should be constant, like all plants in the garden. It will have to be watered, fertilized and pruned regularly.
– there are a lot of options, but the main thing is not to forget that the border must cope with its main functions and be more or less durable.

It is better to decide what the borders for garden paths on the site will be made of even before the construction of the paths themselves, at the planning stage. Some types of curbs will be much easier to install in parallel with the arrangement of the path itself.

Smooth garden paths will decorate any garden plot, but to extend the durability of the coating, it is necessary to select the material for laying, based on the expected traffic and load on the path, and organize its reliable paving. The process of installing paving slabs is simple. The advantage of shaped paving elements is the possibility of dismantling the material and subsequent installation, while the finished path requires minimal care. Let's look at the main points that are worth knowing so that home paving is successful.

Choosing paving slabs

The materials used to pave garden paths can be clay, stone and even treated wood, but most paving slabs are made from concrete. Geometric shape, patterns and sizes of tiles (from 10x10 to 50x50 cm) are varied.

Remember that if garden paths are subject to intensive use, then small block material fits better, although it will take more time to install it. It is better to place a path made of such paving slabs centrally, for example, a path from the gate to the house.

Type of paving slabs	Appearance	Service life, years
Vibro-pressed	Simple shape and color	15-20
Cast	Various shapes, shiny and smooth surface, pattern possible	10-15

Vibropressed tiles are suitable not only for garden paths, but even for parking or driving a car, because... this material is considered more durable and frost-resistant.

Ceramic paving stones are more attractive in appearance than concrete blocks and retain their rich color longer. Ceramic coating does not require special care.

Useful tips for choosing paving slabs:

The brightness of the material indicates a significant proportion of dyes in the composition of the tile, which is why its quality decreases: garden paths will have cracks, and the tile will begin to crumble.
Before buying tiles in a store, check their quality by knocking one tile against another. If the sound is clear, you are looking at a high quality product. If the sound is dull, then the tiles were not dried in accordance with the technology, and the material is of questionable durability.
The material must be free of bright white or black stripes and uniform in color.
The minimum frost resistance value (number of freezing-thawing cycles) should be 150.
The thickness of paving slabs directly depends on the expected mechanical load, namely:

4 cm – pedestrian movement;
4-6 cm – people on bicycles or with wheelbarrows;
6-8 cm – near the entrance or parking of a car;
10 cm – the movement of trucks, but for a personal plot, tiles of this thickness are used extremely rarely.

If a truck with wood or bricks comes to your site a couple of times a year, then it is enough to make garden paths from material 6-8 cm thick.

Preparing the site for laying tiles

The quality of preparatory work affects the durability of the paving, reduces the risk of tile sagging and prevents large material from spreading.

"Dry" method

Evenly remove the top layer of soil 30-40 cm thick. If the soil is clayey, then it is necessary to cover it with 5 cm of young slag or lay needle-punched geotextiles with a density of 300 g/sq.m. on top. If there is sand on the site, then it does not need additional preparation, since it is quite durable.
Fill the ditches in layers gravel or crushed stone, compacting the base every 15 cm, which will reduce the volume of purchased material by 20%. It is better to purchase different fraction sizes and mix them while pouring - this will ensure better adhesion of the material and increase the density of the preparatory layer.
Do backfilling with sand with a fraction of 1-4 mm, layer thickness - 3-5 cm. Some people recommend making the backing out of cement-sand mortar, but this can cause difficulties during dismantling and subsequent installation of tiles. We recommend using a backing made from this solution in a place where water will penetrate into garden paths, for example, near trays for draining precipitation. To preserve the beneficial properties of the bedding, it is not recommended to walk on it.
To ensure unhindered drainage of precipitation from paving slabs, we recommend laying bedding with cross slope up to 3% from the center of the paving to the edges. In situations where this cannot be done for a number of reasons, a two percent slope in one direction is allowed.
Recommended the slope of the plot is 10%, on long-term terrain it is up to 14%. But if the cottage is located in an area with difficult terrain, we advise you to secure the movement of people and install a stepped path.

"Wet" base for garden paths

There is also a “wet” method of preparing the base for paving slabs, which will require more time and material. Features of the screed cement mortar– the area limit is 0.5 sq.m, so the path should be filled in sections. You can move on to the next one only after the previous one has completely hardened.

Composition of the solution: cement M150 (1 part) mixed with sand (3 parts) and water (1 part). The thickness of the mortar is 2-3 cm, after which it must be compacted and all cracks covered with a dry mortar mixture. At the end of the “wet” method, the path is cleaned and it is ready for laying paving slabs.

Paving paving slabs

To lay the path you will need the following tools:

tape measure with level or theodolite;
shovel and wheelbarrow;
a tamping machine with a vibrating plate with an operating weight of 90 kg;
a rubber mallet or a wooden hammer if the previous one is not available;
trowel;
great;
Bulgarian.

Lay the first row of paving slabs on the prepared surface so that the level protrudes 1 cm as planned (allowance for shrinkage during compaction). To ensure that garden paths have uniform colors, we recommend taking paving stones alternately from two different pallets.

The gap between the tiles for ordinary pedestrian paths equal to 2-3 cm; for a place for exiting or parking a car, you should leave a distance of 3-5 cm between the tiles. The quality of the seams can be checked after paving in 3 rows, and the presence of depressions or bumps in the surface is checked every 6 rows.

Grouting of joints is carried out by pouring sifted dry sand with a fine fraction and rubbing it into the tiles with a brush or broom. Sweep away excess sand with a broom.

Compact the surface of the path onto personal plot can be done in two ways: using a rammer and a vibrating plate, or rubber mallet. Compaction should be done in 2-3 passes, each time adding clean sand to the surface, thereby tightly filling all the cracks between the tiles. In the first month of operation of the path, it is also necessary to apply clean sand several times and sweep it away after a couple of days.

Installation of borders

Border blocks are the final link in paving. They play two functions: they separate garden paths from lawns and flower beds, preventing the destruction of paths. The evenness of the curbs is important, so they must be set according to the level.

Modern products that serve as borders for paths are made from a mixture of concrete and plasticizers using vibration pressing, so they are resistant to natural factors and durable. In addition, dyes are added to the blocks, so you can diversify the landscape in your garden.

To pave the curb, dig a trench one-third the height of the product and 5 cm wider than the curb stone. The stock will come in handy when pouring the solution. Thoroughly compact the soil in the trench and add a mixture of sand and cement (1:3).

Place the blocks in the center of the trench to leave space on both sides for pouring the mortar, and also leave a 0.5 cm gap between the borders. Having paved all the elements of the fence, you can begin preparing the cement-sand mortar (the proportion is the same, but plus 1 part of water ). The mixture is kept for 24 hours, after which begin the preparatory work for installing the tiles.

To make your garden paths original, make your own border blocks. Knock down the formwork from fiberboard sheets or plywood, connecting the parts with screw clamps. An alternative is to purchase ready-made forms.

For cooking concrete mortar mix 1 part sand, 1 part cement, 2 parts small gravel. The mold needs to be greased with regular sunflower oil, pour the solution and wait until concrete mixture almost dry. The mass should not completely harden, because When removing the formwork, the shape of the curb can be easily deformed. After a few days, the products will be completely ready.

Features of care

Paths on a personal plot need regular care, thanks to which you will maintain coverage in good condition and extend its service life. Some simple rules will help you with this:

wash paving slabs soap solution and a brush, and remove stains from machine oils with special solutions;
promptly break through the grass that has grown in the cracks between the tiles using a scraper;
Ice should be carefully removed with a plastic shovel, sprinkling the paths with sand, but not salt, because it will damage the paving stones over time.

And don’t forget about the scheduled repairs of the path and immediately pay attention to tiles that have sagged or lost their strength. Individual elements It is enough to dismantle it with a screwdriver, make a new layer of bedding and restore the surface by compacting the garden paths with a rubber mallet.