No one will argue that the name of the queen of the garden was given to the rose for a reason. In the future, it is unlikely that anyone will be able to move her off this pedestal, little will change in terms of the main types of roses, which have long been defined in a conditional classification adopted among rose breeders, gardeners and flower growers.
The only thing that changes with the passage of time is that the cultivation of roses is no longer the prerogative of professionals - now anyone, even an absolute beginner in gardening, can start growing them. This happens because new varieties of roses have been developed that grow without outside help and require very little care.
Another reason why the popularity of roses has increased again is the fact that new varieties have been bred with thick double flowers, fragrant and reminiscent of ancient varieties of ancestors.
The last decade in the development of new roses has been a particularly intensive work with attempts to combine both qualities. The result is the emergence of many varieties of roses that combine both aroma and beautiful flowers and endurance, both to diseases and pests that do not require everyday and tedious care.
In order to make it easier for gardeners to deal with different types and varieties of roses and choose the right ones, let's start by dividing them into conditional groups or categories.
Conditional because as a result of breeding work to develop new varieties of roses, the boundaries between them are gradually erased, some species and varieties, having borrowed species characteristics from others, become similar to each other to the degree of confusion, so it is often difficult even to determine which group a particular rose belongs to professional..
We offer you here a classification that is often used by amateurs, summer residents and ordinary, non-professional flower growers to identify roses in rose gardens, flower beds and flower beds. According to her, roses are divided into species and groups, depending on how they are used in the garden, on the site, and of course, on the shape of the rose bush itself.
These will be standard, shrub and flower bed roses. Roses are divided into generally accepted categories: climbing, ground cover, miniature, park and hybrid tea roses. We mentioned most of them on the pages of the site www.Vsaduidoma.ru
The main types of garden roses
climbing roses
Let's preliminarily divide them into 2 groups: Ramblers and climbers
Roses ramblers These are climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. The stems are flexible and small. 2-3 centimeters in diameter. The flowers of most rambler roses are collected in inflorescences, quite large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. As a rule, there is no aroma at all, but there are also very weakly smelling varieties of ramblers. Requires supports or garters.
Climber roses- weaving roses, the stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, they bloom twice, flowering is long, very plentiful and lush. It is easy to winter, a thorough shelter for varieties of climbers is not required.
ground cover roses
The most frequent roses in flower beds and elements garden design. This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms - ground cover roses can be both creeping and upright (upright). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter in height, but can be higher. The range of flowers, or rather their forms and types, is the most diverse: from terry, semi-double to the simplest and sometimes even nondescript.
miniature roses
These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed 30, less often 35-40 centimeters in height. The flowers are similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. There are also varieties among them that grow in flowers without much care. Most of the miniature roses are remontant.
In the picture: 1. Climber climbing roses, 2. Rambler climbing roses, 3. Miniature roses, 4. Bed roses, 5. Ground cover roses
park roses
(read more,)
Flowers at park roses the simplest, very often similar to an ordinary wild rose or non-catalogue species roses. They can bear fruit in autumn, peculiar berries resembling rose hips. The main disadvantage of park roses is a rare and single flowering. They got their name because they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they take up a lot of space, which are few in our dachas.
On the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid tea roses, 8. Cascade roses, 9. Park roses, 10. Standard roses
shrub roses
The main and characteristic sign of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height quite easily when grown with minimal care can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular varieties among flower growers are representatives of this species "Modern Shrab", "Grandiflora". Most often used to create hedges on homemade, or often mixed (using other plants). Also well suited for creating a flower garden exclusively from roses. Formed rose gardens from shrub roses are very beautiful.
The group of shrub roses includes both many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called "nostalgic" varieties, once blooming, with double flowers.
hybrid tea roses
This type of rose captivates the hearts of gardeners primarily with its large double flowers. The stems grow to a height of up to a meter, erect (upright). One of the best cut roses. All hybrid tea roses are remontant, and almost all are fragrant. In landscape design and flower garden formation, they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or.
Hybrid tea roses have large, elegant flowers and upright shoots that reach a height of 1 m, so they look good in the flower garden, and are also great for cutting.
cascading roses
Roses grafted onto a trunk at a height of 140 centimeters with varieties of climbing or ground cover roses. The stems of cascading roses are long, often hanging down. The shapes of the flowers depend on the grafting, therefore they are actually very diverse both in color and in diameter and shape.
standard roses
Like miniature roses, standard roses are well suited for growing in pots and containers, which of course does not negate their cultivation in a flower garden or rose garden, which they will undoubtedly transform. To form and compact the crown of this type of roses, hybrid tea roses, the already mentioned miniature or Floribunda roses, are often grafted onto them.
flower bed roses
As a rule, many gardeners and flower growers refer to flowerbed roses as polyanthus roses and Floribunda roses. Suitable for growing both in portable containers and pots, and in a flower garden in open field. Flowers are collected in lush and beautiful inflorescences. Flowerbed roses have little to no fragrance (with the exception of a few weakly scented varieties). But their main plus is lush and long flowering. In height, flower bed roses can reach 70-80 centimeters.
Rose seedlings: choose the right one
So, we figured out approximately the types and groups of roses for a garden, flower garden, rose garden, or even a simple flower bed, now let's move on to where it all begins - rose seedlings.
The key to beautiful, luxuriantly blooming, little sick and not requiring daily care roses is, of course, the correct selection of seedlings.
First, pay attention to the shoots and stems. Their color should be green, the stems themselves are strong, resilient, so to speak, "oozing with life." The bark of the shoots should be intact, without folds, breaks and rot.
Buds are another sign of healthy rose seedlings - they must be large, well developed and look healthy, exactly the same recommendations can be given for examining the roots of roses, the roots must be intact, without breaks, and the substrate in which the seedling or earthen lump is sold must be sure to be slightly wet.
The leaves of the seedling should be rich green in color both on the inside and on the outside. We think it would be superfluous to say that there should be no stains or damage on them - if there is, then this is no longer a seedling, but money thrown to the wind.
Rose seedlings in the planting season (early autumn or spring) are most often sold with open roots, in pre-planting containers (with a closed root system)
Roses are sold with an open root system, with a closed one, as well as directly in containers.
Planting such seedlings of roses must be done immediately after purchase, this is important.
Most experienced gardeners plant roses in the period from the beginning of September to mid-October. If you live in a cold, northern region, then it is better to plant in the spring, in a cold winter, immature seedlings with an undeveloped root system will simply freeze.
In principle, roses can be planted in the summer, in any of the months. Moreover, you can plant them even flowering. True, it will come out a little more expensive for the money, but they will take root well.
As you can see in the right photo, the roots of rose seedlings are in the ground, moss is occasionally used. They can protect the root system of a seedling for several days, such seedlings are usually packed neatly and there is practically no damage to the root system.
What to look for when choosing and buying rose seedlings
- On the label. On quality rose seedlings, a tag is always attached with brief information about the breeder, about the type (group) of roses, and of course with information about the variety.
- Also pay attention to the so-called “ADR” sign (more about it below): such a sign is issued to varieties of roses that are highly resistant to diseases and have high decorative features.
- The most expensive seedlings the highest category, must have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from vaccination. Cheaper rose seedlings already have 2 shoots, both of which grow from the grafting site.
The best place to plant roses
Whatever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love soft, loose, fertile soil, with good performance water permeability. Best Level soil acidity, the so-called pH - 6.5.
Attention: When replacing plantings do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have grown for more than 8-10 years!
Old roses have already "chosen" from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through the right and generous fertilizer. But they saturated the earth with spores of diseases and pests.
Despite the well-known photophilous nature of roses, it is impossible to keep them under the direct rays of the sun, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.
Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, next to a low tree that you subject to annual pruning, etc.
So in my area to the left of the cypress growing next to me, the rose bush is always, despite the constant care, stunted and faded, but on the right, it (the cypress), as if by clock, covers the second bush with itself at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always more powerful and prettier, so it's been tested in practice.
Preparing to plant rose seedlings
Immediately before planting roses, seedlings should first be prepared. So the roots that are too long should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Pruner, and all dry ones removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses are recognized even by touch).
In this case, in no case do not touch the filiform roots.
Pruning must also be done on the stems of the seedling - in the spring, leave two to four buds, in the fall, when planting, the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters.
Tip: A few hours before planting (approximately 2), dip the seedlings in a bucket of water and leave them there for the specified time, or even better, do it in the evening, and plant in the morning, that is, at night.
Planting roses - step by step
If the soil in your country house, plot or flower garden is predominantly clayey, then add river or other sand to the pit under the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add compost to the rose hole in turn.
- The hole for planting a rose should be 10 centimeters larger than (wider and deeper) than the earth ball and the roots that are in it. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole.
- The depth at which the rose seedling is planted is determined by the place of grafting, which should be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the planting hole with compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash (not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes and other things - only wood!).
- Hold the rose seedling evenly at the desired depth and gradually fill the hole with earth.
- Be sure to compact the soil well around the planting.
- For watering a seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water from spreading. Be sure to spud the seedling by 15 centimeters, no less - this must be done in spring and autumn. In spring, hilling is useful from drying out, in autumn it helps from frost. On the offensive autumn period, excess land can be removed.
Photo 3: Correct fit roses for beginners
Fastening and supports
Supports and fastenings are needed, first of all, for standard roses - they need to be tied to supports soft cloth or with the same twine, making a kind of “eight” out of it. Periodically inspect the plant and loosen the knots to prevent the twine from growing into the tissue of the rose shoot.
rose pruning
The goal of any rose pruning is replacement. That is, it is produced in order to replace the old stems and shoots with young ones that will bloom luxuriantly and profusely. Pruning of old drying shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.
Weakened stems are also pruned by significantly shortening them, powerful shoots are either not touched at all or pruned slightly.
Root shoots, the scourge of grafted roses, are completely removed when pruning.
General rule pruning is as follows: the stronger it is, the more strength the rose will need to form new stems.
Pruning standard (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of scion - so ground covers, as a general rule, shorten them by half their growth every 2 years.
Spring pruning roses
Spring pruning is started mainly at the end of March, in colder regions - at the beginning of April.
But of course, these dates can shift, depending on the climate, the weather in any direction, so in addition to the exact dates, use this sign: you should start pruning roses when the buds swell on the tops of the most powerful shoots, as a rule, a plant blooms at the same time in the flower garden forsythia.
Photo 4: Pruning roses
How to properly cut stems
Believe me, this is important.
The shoots of roses are cut above the bud, from which the shoot will subsequently appear. Such a kidney should be directed outward, to the outside - this is done in order to avoid thickening the bush and giving it a beautiful shape.
In order not to damage the kidney with a pruner, cut the shoot 5-7 millimeters higher. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed down from the kidney, this is done so that moisture from fog and rainwater flows down at the cut point, does not stagnate on it, which can cause it to penetrate into the core and the shoot will rot.
Pruning roses for lush and abundant blooms.
To achieve a beautiful and lush flowering of roses, you must follow a few rules.
1. Do climbing roses remontant varieties buds grow both on young shoots and on one-year-old or more shoots, so only lateral shoots are pruned, leaving 4-5 buds. In one-time blooming roses, the flowers are located on the growths of the previous year, so the new stems are not cut, the bush is slightly thinned out, in extreme cases, 2 old skeletal branches can be removed.
2. Miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea roses flower on young stems so they need to be pruned quite heavily. Hybrid tea and Floribunda are pruned a little in the fall, and such pruning is more sanitary in nature: diseased and weak shoots are removed, but in the spring they are pruned more thoroughly - leaving a shoot with three, four buds. Pruning of miniature roses is done in the spring, they are shortened by 12-15 centimeters.
3. In remontant shrub roses, flowers are located on young stems, so the bush is thinned out, while shortening the stems on the outside of the bush to 5 buds.
If the skeletal branches need to be shortened, then do it by a third or even two-thirds of the length.
once blooming roses shrubs bloom luxuriantly on last year's growth, so their pruning must be done immediately after flowering.
We cover roses for the winter
Sheltering roses for the winter is a very important procedure. Otherwise, you can lose all the work that you have invested in your favorites in the summer. Therefore, when autumn comes, stock up on burlap, spruce branches or any other covering material.
You need to cover roses in November-early December (this is the deadline).
Covering methods also depend on the variety and species. So rose hips can not be covered at all.
You can’t use a film for shelter - the plants under it can easily dry up, by the way, the sun can also damage roses in winter - unjustified early sap flow during the thaw may begin, and when new frosts come, they will freeze, as a rule, then it’s already irrevocable - it’s difficult to save such roses, because the tissue of the plant suffers, black rings appear that are clearly visible in the spring on the cut. Therefore, a non-woven material for shelter will be just right.
As a rule, the grafting site suffers from frost the most, in fact, therefore, we recommended above that you bury it when planting a seedling at a depth of 5 centimeters.
Roses in autumn need to be additionally sprinkled with dry earth, better with compost, and cover with spruce branches (if possible). Then cover shrub, miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea with non-woven material.
One-year-old standard roses hibernate horizontally, for which gently bend the shoots to the ground and secure with wire pins. Be sure to fill the grafting site with earth or compost, do the same with the crown of the bush.
Old and adult standard roses can successfully overwinter and vertically, you can simply pull a bag over a bush and fill it with dry foliage from below, and tie the bottom, and the garter must necessarily be below the vaccination site. Shoots as well as in previous cases spud and insulate.
Shrub roses, especially those that have grown strongly over the summer, are difficult to cover. In this case, a wire cylindrical cage will come to your aid, larger diameter than a rose bush without a bottom and a lid - it is installed on a bush and carefully stuffed with foliage, hay or straw.
The shelter of climbing roses consists in removing them from a hedge or trellis, laying them on a spruce branch, and warming them with burlap, for example, followed by covering them again with spruce branches. On top of such a "pie" you can put a film ..
It is optimal to transfer the wintering and, of course, only healthy roses, with good immunity to diseases, can grow and delight us with their beauty.
Therefore, even at the stage of buying a flower, ask the seller about the stability of this variety, as a rule, many of them are fanatics of their business and will explain the essence of the issue to you in detail, otherwise use the tips above for choosing rose seedlings.
To minimize the stress of a rose from moving to a new “place of residence”, take the choice of a landing site as seriously as possible, consider not only landscape design and its reception, but try to make sure that your desires and opportunities coincide with “desires and opportunities” roses.
If the variety is resistant to diseases, for example, they took a seedling they liked from friends who do not know either its origin or the name of the variety, do regular spraying with preparations for prevention.
If the prevention did not help and the rose fell ill, then immediately remove the entire affected part of the plant - this will save not only it, but also other nearby bushes. By the way, in fairness, it must be said that most often diseases are spread precisely with cuttings taken from friends and not from the market or shops, so in such cases, do not be lazy to process the seedling immediately.
If removing the diseased parts does not help, resort to chemical or folk remedies to spray the affected rose (we will describe them in detail a little later in the next article).
It is necessary to inspect the roses in the garden as often as possible, at least 1-2 times a week - because the sooner you notice signs of the disease, the easier it is to defeat it, and the rose will suffer less from removing the affected stems. Be sure to burn any parts of the plant that you have removed from the diseased plant - do not compost them, because the next year you will spread the infection throughout the site with it. Before wintering and sheltering roses, remove dried leaves that have not fallen, as well as dried flowers, berries.
Before sheltering roses for the winter, be sure to collect the cut parts of the plants and remove the dried, but not fallen leaves, also tear off the withered flowers and fruits.
Usage folk remedies and homemade preparations for spraying roses.
In order to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases in roses, spray them with a decoction of horsetail grass every 2 weeks.
Preparation of horsetail solution
To prepare a decoction, take 150 grams of dry grass or one kilogram of raw grass, chop the grass and pour one liter of water, then boil and cook for half an hour over low heat. A decoction for spraying is diluted 1 to 10 before use.
Solution for spraying roses from aphids
Take 30 grams of dry or 400-450 grams of green wormwood (bitter) and pour ten liters of boiling water, then leave for at least 10 minutes. Then strain and dilute 1 to 3. Spray the bush more thoroughly and on both sides of the leaf - if you spray only on top and lightly, then the aphids will simply crawl under the bottom of the leaves, and crawl back as soon as possible or after rain.
The main pests of roses
1. "Rose aphid".
Lives on the tips of the stems, underside of the leaf, buds. Eats juice.
How to deal: Cutting the shoots inhabited by aphids, spraying with a solution of wormwood (the solution recipe is given above), home-made nettle mash helps in the fight against rose aphids. If it is not possible to prepare folk solutions, then treat with any chemical. remedy for leaf-eating or sap-sucking pests.
2. "Rose leafhoppers"
Little insects. Favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose leaf. A characteristic feature is that small white spots appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.
Control measures: treatment of roses with simple liquid laundry soap.
3. Rose pest - spider mite.
Also inhabits the underside of the leaves. The leaves are covered with yellow spots, then rapidly become gray, white. If there is an intensive reproduction of the spider mite, then thin cobwebs are visible to the naked eye on the back of the leaf.
How to deal: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting a rose, if this is not possible due to any circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes shoots if the resettlement process has gone too far and then spray with a decoction of horsetail ( solution recipe above) or tobacco. Also effective against spider mites are infusions of yarrow and garlic.
4. "Rozanny leaflet".
Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the leaves of a rose, because of which they begin to curl up into a tube, and in early to mid-June, a larva ripens in them.
Control measures: Removal of leaves affected by the pest, spraying with any insecticides.
5. "Sawfly or rotten rose"
The pest lays its eggs right on the pink shoot, the larvae emerging from the eggs drill holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which first causes a slowdown in growth and then the death of the stem. Signs of its presence are holes in the shoots that appear as early as May.
Ways and measures to combat the sawfly: only the removal of the affected shoots. As a preventive measure, regular spraying of the rose with a solution of bitter wormwood (recipe above) can play a good role.
Rose pests - photo
Diseases of roses and measures to combat them
1. Black spotted roses ().
The main sign of black spotting is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on outside rose leaf. After the appearance of spots, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provoking effect of the appearance of black spot on roses can be high humidity air.
Measures to combat black spotting: if prolonged rainy weather has set in, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one percent Bordeaux liquid.
2. Roses and powdery mildew.
Another scourge of garden roses. The provoking factor is the same as black spot- wet and warm weather, established for a long time. A sign of the disease is clear from the name - a white, easily erased plaque on the leaves.
How to fight: spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew on roses, plant them in a ventilated area that is not limited by large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.
3. Rose Rust Rose:
Outwardly similar to black spotting, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow, and on inside leaves appear black pustules, which contain spores.
Control measures: spraying with a copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1% Noah). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, then every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.
4. powdery mildew(false).
A characteristic feature is red-brown spots on the outer side of the leaves, on the back of the leaf there is a gray or white coating, indelible.
How to fight: treat the bushes with a solution of horsetail (the recipe for preparing the solution is given above), treatments with infusion of nettle, common thistle, ash solution or mullein infusion are also effective. As an additional remedy, increase potash at the root and avoid dripping water on the leaves when watering.
5. Gray rot roses:
The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. Sign of gray rot: mold gray color at the ends of the stems, and buds. After the disease, they dry and fall off.
Measures to combat gray rot: increase fertilizing with fertilizers that have manganese in their composition. Prevention: treatment of roses with ordinary Bordeaux mixture (1%)
Photo of rose diseases
50 most beautiful roses from new varieties
I myself am often opposed to talking about flowers, and even more so about roses in terms of the degree of superiority of one variety over another - something like “10 best varieties of roses” or “100 most beautiful roses”, but in this case it is justified - after all, we are talking not only about beauty, but also about endurance and resistance to disease.
It's no secret that most new varieties of roses are bred not only for their "beauty" - breeders develop new varieties that are resistant to diseases, which, unfortunately, our pets suffer more and more.
How to determine how hardy a particular variety of roses is?
The so-called ADR sign (“Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung”) will help you with this - in Russian it is translated as “All-German certification of new varieties of roses”.
This list includes only those roses that have increased cold resistance, abundance and duration of flowering, resistance to pests and diseases.
At the end of 2011, this list contained 180 varieties of roses, and in the same year it was updated by only 5 points - the Germans are demanding and scrupulous people.
How do roses get into this catalog list and what does the ADR sign mean?
The ADR mark is assigned to varieties of roses with a high degree hardiness and the best flowering rates.
Roses eligible for this ADR mark? for three years they are planted in 11 different gardens throughout Germany. In order to test them for endurance in different climatic and weather conditions, taking into account the difference in soil and other factors.
Roses are cared for in the most ordinary way, except for one thing - flower growers are forbidden to treat them from diseases and pests of roses. As a result, what is called “at the exit”, roses are obtained that do not require chemical treatment, moreover, their selection, as we see, occurs in the most natural way.
Gardeners water, feed and prune "experimental" in the same way as in private gardens, but it is strictly forbidden to use any means of plant protection against diseases and pests. Among other things, such testing of roses has a positive effect on the environment, since the more gardeners grow hardy varieties, the less chemicals will be needed.
After three years, the results of planting and growing roses applying for the ADR mark, an expert commission is created from rose breeding specialists and evaluated on a 100-point system, in order to enter the group of winners, a rose needs to score 75 points or more.
This whole process was founded by the famous rose breeder Wilhelm Kordes.
What varieties of roses are ADR tested?
The most varied. Roses of all new varieties (except wild roses, which were not tested last year, 2011) are sent for testing from all over the planet, and one of the main conditions for participation in this rose competition is that the variety must be new and not sold on the market for more than 5 years.
Why are roses rated?
Points are accumulated by varieties in a complex way - here are resistance to diseases, growth rate, duration and splendor as characteristics of flowering, general form roses, fragrance. But still, the most important evaluation criterion remains resistance to diseases and pests.
A rose may lose the ADR mark if, as a result of a subsequent cross-check, it is found that it has lost any of its signs.
The most beautiful roses from the ADR catalog: photo
The best varieties roses - PHOTO 
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO 
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO 
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO 
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO 
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO 50 varieties of the best and most beautiful roses
Description of varieties of roses in the photo
Name (ROSE VARIETY) | Group | flowers | Aroma | Bush |
floribunda | apricot, semi-double, 6 cm | |||
2.Aspirin Rose | floribunda | white to pink, terry, 6 cm | with arched drooping stems, 70 cm high |
|
3.Bengali | floribunda | copper yellow, terry, 6 cm | medium intensity | |
4.Black Forest Rose | floribunda | red, semi-double, 6 cm | missing | sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high |
5. Bluhwunder 08 | ground cover rose | hot pink, plain, 6 cm | missing | sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high |
6 Comedy | yellow with red, terry, 8 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high |
|
7. Crescendo | floribunda | pink, terry, 10 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 85 cm high |
8. Debut | floribunda | light yellow, terry, 4 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 65 cm high |
9. Elbflorenz | hybrid tea roses | hot pink, densely doubled, 9 cm | straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high |
|
10 Gebruder Grimm | floribunda | orange with pink, densely doubled, 7 cm | straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high |
|
11.Golden Gate | yellow, semi-double, 9 cm | medium intensity | with stems 300 cm long |
|
12.Goldspatz | light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm | missing | with drooping stems, 150 cm high |
|
13. Grande Amore | hybrid tea roses | bright red, terry, 10 cm | straight, densely leafy, height 80 cm |
|
14. Heidetraum | ground cover rose | hot pink, terry, 4 cm | missing | low, sprawling, 75 cm high |
15.Hella | climbing large-flowered (Climber) | white, semi-double, 9 cm | with shoots 250 cm long |
|
16.Flashlight | pink, densely doubled, 10 cm | straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high |
||
17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose | floribunda | creamy, densely doubled, 10 cm | medium intensity | |
18. Eliza | hybrid tea roses | silver-pink, terry, 9 cm | straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high |
|
19. Intarsia | floribunda | yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high |
20. Isarperle | floribunda | creamy white, terry, 6 cm | medium intensity | straight, densely leafy, 75 cm high |
21. Jasmina | climbing large-flowered (Climber) | violet-pink, densely doubled, 6 cm | medium intensity | with stems 300 cm long |
22. Kir Royal | climbing large-flowered (Climber) | pink, terry, 6 cm | with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long |
|
23. Space | floribunda | creamy, densely doubled, 8 cm | medium strength | straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high |
24. La Perla | hybrid tea roses | creamy, densely doubled, 9 cm | straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high |
|
25. Innocencia | floribunda | pure white, semi-double, 5 cm | compact, branched, 50 cm high |
|
26. Schone Koblenzerin | floribunda | red with cream, densely doubled, 4 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 60 cm high |
27. Sedana | ground cover rose | creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm | missing | low, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high |
28. La Rose de Molinard | hot pink, densely doubled, 8 cm | |||
29. Laguna | climbing large-flowered (Climber) | hot pink, densely doubled, 10 cm | stems 250 cm long |
|
30. Larissa | pink, terry, 5 cm | missing | dense, branched, 80 cm high |
|
31. Medley Pink | pink, semi-double, 4 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high |
|
32. Mirato | ground cover rose | hot pink, terry, 6-7 cm | sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high |
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33. Pastella | floribunda | cream with pink, densely doubled, 6-8 cm | medium intensity | straight, densely leafy, 60-80 cm high |
34. Pink Paradise | hybrid tea roses | hot pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm | compact, densely leafy, 90 cm high |
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35. Pink Swany | pink, double, 6-7 cm | missing | sprawling with falling shoots 50-60 cm high |
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36. Planten and Blomen | floribunda | red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high |
37. Pomponella | floribunda | pink, densely doubled, 4 cm | straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high |
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38. Red Leonardo da Vinci | floribunda | dark red, densely doubled, 7 cm | ||
39. Resonance | floribunda | red, semi-double, 6 cm | straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high |
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40. Rouge Meilove | floribunda | dark red, densely doubled, 5 cm | sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high |
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41. Schloss Ippenburg | hybrid tea roses | salmon pink, terry, 8-10 cm | straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high |
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42. Schneeflocke | ground cover rose | white, semi-double, 6 cm | strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm high |
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43 Shining Light | yellow, terry, 10 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high |
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44. Sinea | floribunda | burgundy, loose, terry, 6 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high |
45. Solero | floribunda | light yellow, densely doubled, 6 cm | sprawling, branched, 70 cm high |
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46. Sorrento | ground cover rose | red, loose, terry, 5 cm | missing | low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high |
47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden | hybrid tea roses | creamy pink, densely doubled, 10 cm | medium intensity | straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high |
48. Stadt Rom | ground cover rose | salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm | compact, well branched, 50-60 cm high |
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49. Westzeit | floribunda | orange, semi-double, 6 cm | missing | straight, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high |
50. Yellow Meilove | light yellow, densely double, 5 cm | medium intensity | straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high |
Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes' Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard
Deciphering the symbols in the description of varieties of roses in the photo
1. Climbing roses: for planting near a support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Flower bed roses: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.: You have repeatedly requested such requests ...: Table of drugs to combat ...
Many flower growers, first of all, are guided by the advice of their friends on how to care for roses, and in the process they make common mistakes. But in order for the garden rose to develop correctly and bloom beautifully, care for this royal flower should be carried out on the basis of professional recommendations.
Caring for young roses after planting
From the article you will learn how to properly care for roses, starting from the very first year, what procedures must be performed in different time year, and what is the difference between cropping various kinds roses.
Immediately after the rose seedlings have been planted, it is necessary to provide them with regular abundant watering in the evening or morning. It should be watered carefully under the root of the seedling, avoiding the erosion of the roots and the ingress of water on the aerial part. Daily watering is carried out until the plant is fully rooted, then it is enough to water once a week.
Video about caring for roses after winter
Very carefully every month you need to loosen the ground under the bush, trying not to damage the fragile root system. With the onset of cold weather, the soil around the rose is compacted.
When planting roses in spring, pruning of seedlings is done in advance, and in the case of planting in autumn, the shoots are cut off next spring, leaving about five of the strongest. Climbing roses do not need pruning.
In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly, otherwise the rose simply will not be able to fully provide itself with all the necessary substances. Only when cutting buds do not remove the leaves - they will still be useful for the plant for photosynthesis. And make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves.
In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly.
How to care for adult roses at different times of the year
Spring
Early spring is well suited for, while the soil is prepared from autumn or at least a month before transplanting. Planted bushes before bud break are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid in order to protect roses from fungal diseases.
In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong live bud. Also during spring pruning, attention is paid to the formation of a symmetrical beautiful bush. All sections are smeared with garden pitch.
In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud.
pruning different types roses:
- It is imperative to prune hybrid tea roses (almost all varieties) annually, as they bloom on growths formed in the current year. With strong pruning, all old shoots are removed, medium branches are cut in half, and young ones - up to three to five buds.
- Varieties of floribunda roses also form flowers on young shoots. Abundant flowering gives combined pruning. The bush in the first year is cut into three to five buds, and later the annual shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Three-year-old branches are completely cut off.
- Climbing large-flowered roses bloom on last year's growth, and therefore only five-year-old branches should be removed. Faded shoots in the summer are cut to the nearest leaf.
- Ramblers bloom once on shoots that have successfully endured frost. Pruning is done on the ring as soon as the roses fade. Old shoots need to be cut off so that they do not reduce the flowering of the bush.
- On the run current year scarabs also bloom. Annual shoots are cut by a third and be sure to cut out the branches growing inside the bush.
- Light pruning is enough for standard roses, and in case of freezing, the branches are cut to healthy buds.
It is essential to prune hybrid tea roses every year.
Summer
Summer care for roses comes down to weeding, periodic loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing. Watering roses requires plentiful, but infrequent, otherwise root system plants will begin to develop close to the surface of the earth, and it can be easily damaged by loosening. On average, five liters of water is enough for one rose bush for one watering, but if it is a climbing rose, up to fifteen liters may be required. It is not recommended to use cold and chlorinated water. The fact that roses do not have enough water, you will understand by small, quickly withering flowers.
Feeding roses with complex fertilizers is carried out before the start of mass flowering, and in August the bushes are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The mulch under the bushes needs to be updated periodically, as it is washed away by rains.
To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary in advance, in July, to spray the bushes with preparations containing copper.
To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary to spray the bushes in advance, in July
To encourage abundant flowering, remember to remove faded buds. Also in the summer, pruning of young long shoots should be carried out. And by the end of summer, watering should be reduced to a minimum.
Autumn
The main task of caring for roses in the fall is to prepare the plants for cold winter. In this regard, the watering of roses is gradually stopped, leaving only loosening the soil and weeding. Bushes are treated for prevention with one percent Bordeaux liquid. Carry out pruning of faded shoots in climbing roses and the main other varieties of roses.
With the arrival of night frosts, roses must be sprinkled with a prepared dry mixture of earth, sand and peat. In floribunda roses, the stem, cut for the winter to 30 cm, should be almost completely covered with soil mixture; grandiflora and hybrid tea varieties spud to a height of 25 cm, cutting off all the leaves and flowers. From above, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, glassine, cardboard, film or sawdust. Ground-cover, park and polyanthus roses need to be pricked up a little, without pruning or covering for the winter.
Curly, climbing and spray roses for the winter need to be shortened by fifteen centimeters, cut off the foliage and bend the shoots to the ground, laying a film under them to isolate from excess dampness coming from the ground. Also fix the film over the bent roses - in this case, spruce branches are not required. With the advent of spring, you will first need to remove the top film, and then remove the film from the ground and tie the lashes of roses to the supports.
Rose care video
Winter
Before the snow falls, you need to take care of protecting the roses from rodents by spreading poison around the bushes. And when there is enough snow, sprinkle it on top sheltered roses, forming small snowdrifts. At the end of winter, it is recommended to periodically compact the snow around the bushes so that the mice, due to lack of food, do not crawl under the shelter and gnaw the bark on the roses.
With the onset of thaws, rose bushes can begin to be ventilated by temporarily lifting the spruce branches or polyethylene with which they were covered. It will be possible to completely remove the shelter only when the severe frosts end (approximately in March-April), and the earth thaws.
The recognized queen of flowers, the fragrant rose is not too difficult to breed in gardens. However, it is necessary to follow the key rules for caring for her, starting with the choice of planting material.
Viable shoots of roses can be obtained in several ways:
Landing
In order for garden roses to give strong shoots covered with healthy foliage and bloom profusely, you need to choose the optimal location for them:
- The place where a beautiful bush will grow should be well lit and securely sheltered from the harsh north wind.
- The soil will need drained, fertile, neutral, medium density- neither too light sandy nor caked clay soils. The groundwater level should also not be high.
Landing pit at the selected location with suitable soil prepared like this:
- The soil is taken out a meter deep. The diameter of the pit is at least half a meter.
- At the bottom is placed drainage layer crushed stone, pebbles or ceramic batt.
- Then a nutrient layer of humus and / or well-rotted manure mixed with the soil is laid.
- On top is a layer of soil that will temporarily protect the developing roots of the rose from direct contact with concentrated fertilizers.
- The root system of the seedling is placed on the soil layer. If it is in the substrate, it is preserved. Unprotected roots are pruned by about a third and kept for up to two hours in water or in a solution of a root formation stimulator before planting.
- Fill the planting hole with soil so that the grafting site is five centimeters below the soil level.
- The earth is rammed, and then well watered - no less than a bucket of water. Tampering and watering create maximum contact of the root system with the soil. As a result, the growth of new roots is accelerated, and after them, young shoots.
Video - How to plant a rose. All stages of landing
Watering
Beautiful roses are moisture-loving, but waterlogging is not good for them.
In the middle lane, if the summer is not dry, it is enough to water the bushes once a week in the morning or evening. Adult roses will require a bucket of water for each plant, growing up half the dose is enough. If hot weather is established, the frequency of watering is increased up to daily.
It is better to use soft water, without excess salts - well, rain, well-settled tap water. In any case, watering with cold water is unacceptable.
The watered earth is loosened to provide the root system with air.
So that the soil does not lose moisture, its surface is mulched with chopped bark, hay, compost.
top dressing
Mineral and organic complexes are used to feed roses, and they alternate depending on the season:
- spring rose bushes twice fed with a complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, at the rate of 30 g per plant. The first feeding is carried out with the awakening of the kidneys and the beginning of the growth of shoots, the second - with the formation of the first buds.
- In summer, during the period of intensive vegetation and abundant flowering, three to four times alternate complex mineral top dressing with organic - a solution of 2 kg. mullein in a bucket of water. Under each bush you need to apply half a bucket of such fertilizer. The last top dressing occurs in August and contains only potassium and phosphorus components.
pruning
Purchased seedlings, as a rule, are grafted plants, the growth and resistance of which is ensured by a viable and hardy wild rose. This powerful base most often stubbornly produces its own shoots, which must be tracked and cut mercilessly throughout the growing season.
Pruning your own stems of varietal roses can be of three degrees:
- Up to four buds from the base of the shoot. It is used for spring seedlings, rejuvenation of old plants and as a last shock therapy for underdeveloped bushes.
- Up to seven buds from the base. By shortening the stems in this way, strong young shoots are obtained and abundant flowering bush.
- Affecting only the ends of the stems. This method is used as a light shaping agent that stimulates flowering.
In addition, pruning roses has its own seasonal specifics:
- In the spring, after liberation from winter shelter, weak, dead, thickening shoots are removed.
- In summer, gentle pruning is carried out, removing wilted flowers and inflorescences to the first viable bud.
- In autumn, in the middle lane, shoots are shortened to the height of a winter shelter. In warmer climates, serious autumn pruning do not carry out.
Graft
You can propagate roses in your own garden by grafting delicate, beautiful varieties on strong rose hips grown from seeds.
To do this, choose a sleeping bud of an already faded rose, cut it off with a small piece of the stem, remove the bark and introduce this graft into a T-shaped incision on the stem of the wild rose. The place of vaccination is wrapped plastic tape, completely cut off the rosehip shoots located above and, having gained patience, wait for the scion to grow together with the stock, as a rule, until next autumn.
Disease protection
Under adverse weather conditions, an unsuitable place for growing, a thickened planting, roses are affected by a variety of infections.
| Disease | Description of the affected plant | Image | Prevention and treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| On the leaves - dark, with purple tint spots with a clear border. Affected foliage quickly turns yellow and dies. | Spraying with Bordeaux liquid, infusions of nettle and / or horsetail. | ||
| The leaves are covered with whitish small grains of easily erasable plaque. | Pruning thickening shoots, spraying with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. |
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| Brown, brown, yellow spots on the foliage. | Spraying with a solution blue vitriol with soap, Bordeaux liquid. |
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| The outer side of the leaves is covered with red-brown spots, and a grayish coating forms on their inner side, which cannot be erased. | Avoid getting water on the leaves. Spray with infusions of horsetail, nettle, sow thistle, ash solution. Strengthen the potassium component in the root dressing. | ||
| Zones of intensive growth - the ends of the shoots and buds - are covered with a gray mold. Affected areas quickly dry out and fall off. | Fertilizing with manganese, spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid. |
Pest control
Garden roses are attacked by specialized "rose" insects:
- Aphids. They settle on young shoots, occupy the lower parts of the leaves. You can try to get rid of this small fry with the help of wormwood infusion or fermented nettle solution. Extensive colonies will destroy only the appropriate insecticide.
- Leafhoppers. They also inhabit the lower surfaces of leaves. Small whitish spots appear on the outer side of the leaf plate. You can eliminate leafhoppers with a solution of laundry soap.
- Spider mites. Willingly breed in heat and dryness, braiding the lower surfaces of the leaves with the thinnest cobweb. Severely affected foliage is removed, the plant is sprayed with garlic or tobacco infusion. Yarrow and horsetail also help.
- Leaf roller. These insects lay their eggs on leaves in such a way that developing larvae wrap up sheet plate into a tight tube. Such formations must be removed and the rose sprayed with an insecticidal preparation.
- Sawflies. Settle the larvae inside the shoots. As a result, holes are formed in the stems. Affected areas are subject to immediate removal and destruction. For preventive purposes, rose bushes are sprayed with infusion of wormwood.
Shelter for the winter
In the middle lane, most varietal roses need winter shelter, which, on the one hand, will reliably protect against frost, and on the other hand, eliminate excess moisture.
The optimal covering material is specialized non-woven fabrics - lutrasil, agrotex, spunbond. Preparation for winter begins in October, with pruning of unripened shoots. With the approach of the first frosts, the stems are bent to the ground and an arc structure is built above them or installed wooden frame to guarantee the necessary winter roses air layer. On the frame structure it is best to put a solid plastic mesh, which will protect the shelter from sagging under the snow, and then, on top of the mesh, arrange a two-layer non-woven coating and securely fix its edges to the soil.
Overwintered roses are unpacked in March-April, after the soil has thawed to a depth of 20 cm, in cloudy weather, which excludes burns on plants that have become unaccustomed to sunlight.
Video - How to properly cover roses for the winter
Calendar of works in the rose garden
By season, rose care is distributed as follows:
| Season | Actions |
|---|---|
| Spring | Transplantation, preventive spraying with Bordeaux liquid, sanitary and stimulating pruning, complex mineral dressing. |
| Summer | Watering, weeding, mineral and organic fertilizing, loosening, removal of wilted inflorescences, disease prevention, pest control. |
| Autumn | Loosening, weeding, preventive "Bordeaux" spraying, pre-winter pruning, hilling. |
| Winter | Protection of bushes from rodents, sprinkling of shelters with snow. |
Timely full care will ensure intensive growth and lush flowering of garden roses of the most exquisite varieties.
For more than five thousand years, people have been growing the queen of all flowers - the rose. It is known, and, probably, every gardener dreams of growing a rose in his garden. But many lovers are stopped by the fear of not coping with the difficulties of growing.
Do not be afraid, even though the rose is considered an elite and requires increased attention to its person and good care, the cultivation of roses will bring only positive emotions. And if you take up the work with all the love for these flowers, which they undoubtedly feel, they will thank you with their beauty, aroma and rapid flowering.
reproduction
There are many ways to propagate roses.
- Propagation of roses by layering. This method is more suitable for shrub and climbing roses, with long flexible branches. In the spring, even before bud break, a flexible shoot is selected and immersed in the ground, having previously made an annular incision on it about 8 cm.
- Reproduction offspring. Around adult bushes of park roses, basal offspring in the form of straight shoots may appear. As soon as the offspring has its own root system, it will be possible to separate it from the mother bush.
- Reproduction by grafting. Perhaps this is the main method of propagation of varietal roses. A bud (eye) or cutting is grafted onto a rose hip root. The disadvantage of this method is that the stock required for grafting is grown in 2-3 years.
- Reproduction by seeds. Yes, yes, there is a way. This is a very laborious and risky method. You never know what you will get in the end, for example, plants completely different from their parents can grow from seeds of hybrids. But if you still ventured into the experiment, it is better to prepare the seeds yourself, and not buy them. To do this, collect and cut the fruits, separate the seeds. Hold the seeds in hydrogen peroxide and then put them in the refrigerator. It is necessary to sow in spring in boxes, sprouts will appear in a month and a half, after which they can be planted in pots.
- Reproduction by cuttings. The simplest and affordable way rose breeding. Any plant is suitable for cutting cuttings, provided that it is a non-Dutch variety. The long stem is divided into pieces of 7-8 cm, the main thing is that it has several buds and leaves. Bottom part the cutting should be at an angle of 45⁰. The stems, cut and peeled of excess leaves, are placed in a solution that stimulates root formation. A day later, the "seedlings" are placed in sand, in water or in flowerpots for further rooting. As soon as the first true roots appear, the "seedlings" are planted in the ground under the greenhouse. If there are few cuttings, each one can be individually covered with a jar or a cut plastic bottle.
Landing
Roses can be planted in spring and autumn, but for residents middle lane experts still advise planting in the spring. Roses prefer warm sunny areas, while it is desirable that they are not in the sun. Perfect option- planting closer to the house, which also protects the plant from cold winds. As for the soil, it is good if it is neutral, roses do not like sour and alkaline earth. If there is no choice, it will be necessary to lime the too oxidized earth, and mix the alkaline with peat.
First you need to prepare holes that are suitable in size, so that the roots of the seedlings fit freely. If planting is done in the spring, the dug soil should be mixed with compost, with autumn planting organic fertilizers not required.
Place a drainage layer at the bottom of the hole. broken brick, pebbles or rubble. Over the drainage, cover half a meter with a layer of soil and fertilizer. Cut the roots of the seedlings slightly with secateurs and straighten them along the dug hole. Sprinkle fertile soil on top, water and tamp well. Do not forget that the grafting site or root collar must be buried. When planting in the autumn, it will be useful to mulch the seedling with mowed grass.
Care
Watering
Roses need watering a maximum of twice a week, and then if the summer is hot. In other cases, you can limit yourself once a week to one bucket of warm water. If you overdo it with watering, oxygen will not reach the roots and the leaves will wither, so after each watering you need to loosen the soil around the bush.
top dressing
During the period of rapid growth, do not forget to water the roses with a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken manure or mullein, and during the formation of buds, a solution of calcium nitrate will be useful. Any top dressing should be carried out before the beginning of August, then the roses are preparing for the winter and do not need fertilizers.
pruning
Inside, growing shoots must be cut off, and wilted flowers removed - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots and abundant flowering. In general, pruning is carried out both in spring and autumn. spring pruning is ennobling in nature, the purpose of such a procedure is only to form a bush, while autumn strengthens the plant, opens access to light, ventilates the crown, increases winter hardiness.
Shelter of roses for the winter
The winter hardiness of roses primarily depends on the variety, for example, tea roses come from Chinese rose, which does not withstand below 0⁰. But the roses of David Austin feel great in our country and winter almost without shelter.
With the onset of July, it is necessary to stop fertilizing roses with nitrogen, thereby preparing them for wintering. Even if roses are covered with a non-woven material that allows air to pass through, this must be done in dry weather. If wet earth remains under the shelter, this is a 100% infectious burn.
To protect against light frosts, roses are spudded, making a small mound, then covered with dry leaves.
With the onset of severe frosts, something like a greenhouse is being built. Bushes cleared of leaves are bound and bent to the ground. The main thing is to do this work before frost, while the branches are flexible, otherwise you can break them or crack the bark. Overly thick, rigid branches are cut so that at least 20–30 cm remain between them and the roof of the greenhouse. After that, a roofing material and a film are stretched onto the frame of the greenhouse. The structure must be strong enough to withstand the snow cover. If the site is damp, or if they are close ground water this method of hiding will not work. Condensation will accumulate under the shelter, and the roses will begin to rot.
Growing roses is a very exciting and time-consuming activity. For getting good result You must have at least basic knowledge in this area. And even if these beauties are very capricious and require increased attention, but not a single flower is able to deliver as many positive emotions as a rose. Therefore, for those who are still unfamiliar with roses, we recommend that you first study the material on growing and caring for these beautiful flowers.
This symbol of love and beauty is shrouded in legends. The first mention of the cultivation of roses dates back to the times of Ancient Iran. Today, everyone can grow this charming flower - a rose - in their garden or in the garden. An amazingly beautiful shrub with fragrant petals is easy to grow in open ground or in a greenhouse. The main thing is to figure out how the cultivation is carried out correctly, and your roses in the garden will become true queens.
How to properly care for roses on the street - almost every novice florist faces this question. The first thing to pay attention to is moisture. Rose belongs to moisture-loving plants, but do not overdo it with watering. Let's say you are breeding a flower in the middle latitudes of Russia. Summer here, as a rule, is not too deprived of precipitation, so it will be enough for you to fill the shrub with water once a week. It is better to do this in the morning or in the evening so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly.
But caring for garden roses growing in hot, dry microclimates should include much more frequent and abundant watering, up to daily if needed.
To grow roses as soon as possible, pay special attention to the quality of the water. It should be soft, not contain a large number salts. The best option- defend tap, rain water or take a well. Caring for garden roses also involves loosening the earth after each. Otherwise, the substrate will become clogged, and the plant will not receive sufficient oxygen.
top dressing
How to care for roses in spring so that the plant blooms longer and becomes less prone to invasion? Mandatory step growing roses is to nourish the flower. In the first year after planting a seedling, it is recommended to apply nutrient mixtures to the ground at least three times during the summer. The choice of nutritional formulations will depend on the time of year due to biological features flower.
Remember: the queen of the garden does not like acidic soil. That is why domestic gardeners, if necessary, add calcium to the ground: slaked lime, wood ash, dolomite flour.
As soon as you remove the shelter from the shrub in early spring and spend it, it's time to start caring for the first one. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate). Be sure to dig up the ground after adding the nutrient mixture. Further, each of the stages of feeding will be carried out in parallel with the growth phase of the shrub (during the period when the buds bloom or new shoots grow).
pruning
Proper care of roses in spring also involves regular pruning plants. But in order for outdoor garden roses to develop to the fullest, this procedure must be approached with all seriousness. Varieties and degrees of pruning plants on present stage several are offered:
- at a distance of four buds from the base of the shoot. This pruning method is used in several cases - when you just purchased a seedling and planted it in the spring or want to rejuvenate an aged bush. Very often this method is used to stimulate the growth of underdeveloped plants;
- at a distance of seven buds from the base. During flowering, the garden rose will become much more lush;
- cutting the ends of the stems. This is the most gentle pruning method. It is used to stimulate the rose to bloom as soon as possible.
Knowing how to care for roses in the garden, you can breed a truly royal flower.
Disease prevention
Regularly monitor the condition of the shrub, inspect it. If you notice that the leaves are covered with spots, cracks appear on the stems, or the buds no longer bloom, all this can serve as a signal for the development of an illness in a rose. Prevention will prevent any disease. In addition, the sooner you start to act, the less your favorite queen of the garden will suffer.
Pest control
Another dangerous pest for the queen of the garden, the sawfly. It penetrates inside the shoots, forming holes there. You can get rid of these insects, however, for this, all the affected parts of the plant will need to be removed. From sawflies, it is better to use preventive measures. To do this, spray the rose with an infusion of wormwood.
Shelter for the winter
If caring for roses in the garden in the summer includes many different procedures (the plant needs to be fed, watered, tied up), it is very important to prepare the plants for the cold before winter. To do this, the shrub will need to be cut again. This time, the shoots that did not have time to ripen are removed. Then the plant is covered with a special cloth. The best option is lutrasil, agrotex, spanbond.
Before you cover the rose, build a special wooden frame for it. Thus, you will not only protect the flower from damage, but also create space for air circulation. Growing garden roses, knowing how to care for them, how to tie them up and how to feed them, is not difficult. Each grower will be able to provide the proper conditions for the growth of the queen of the garden in the open field. Take care of garden flowers- and the roses in the garden will decorate your household plot, and caring for them will not become too burdensome.
Video "Fertilizer and top dressing of roses"
From this video you will learn how to properly fertilize and feed roses.