The covering of the first floor must be carried out in compliance with technologies for “warm” floors. Fortunately, on wooden beams it is possible, without stealing the treasured heights of the ceilings of the room, to make the floor pie insulated.
Plank floors
Advantages and disadvantages of wooden structures
Wooden structures are used in private houses made of wood and stone of all types. This versatility is not inherent concrete structures. In addition, at wooden structures There are other advantageous properties:
- the construction of wooden structures is much cheaper than concrete ones;
- for arrangement of monolithic concrete floors requires special equipment and complex engineering work. And in the case of wooden beams, you can do without the help of professional builders. Minimum necessary skills- work with a hammer and saw.
- Concrete floors are heavy. Their heavy weight puts a lot of pressure on the foundation, which cannot be said about the light weight of wooden structures.
Wooden floor on the second floor there will be less pressure on the walls than concrete - with low density, they have sufficient load-bearing capacity to support heavy furniture.
- higher rates of sound insulation and thermal insulation compared to concrete structures;
Attention! Pie interfloor ceilings will be different because there is no need to use insulation.
- The decorative value of beams can be used in the interior of the room, so it is not necessary to disguise the logs and beams for covering the floor of the second floor with suspended ceilings.
Using beams on the second floor in the interior There are also disadvantages that also need to be addressed:
- wood has a shorter service life than concrete. Therefore, to increase their service life, beams are treated antiseptics. Even despite this normal conditions They can last more than 50 years of operation.
- has the lowest fire resistance;
- the floor structure based on wooden beams is susceptible to moisture and rots under its influence.
But these shortcomings are indirectly related to the matter, because if properly used under normal conditions, the wooden floor structures of the first floor can last a good time.
Floor design
Construction and floor of the second floor wooden house Before you start detailed description creating the correct “pie” for the first floor ceiling, it is worth noting the constituent elements and technical rules.
- Priming. The ceiling of the first floor separates the room from the underground space, the surface of which is soil. The soil becomes a source of moisture entering wood structures, which can negatively affect their technical properties. Therefore, this surface must be waterproofed. There is no need to waterproof the second floor.
- Ventilation must be provided in the underground space so that moisture penetrating from the ground is evaporated and does not enter the floor ceiling.
- Brick pillars, on which wooden floor beams lie.
- Wooden beams. The beams serve as a supporting element for the floor joists. Depending on the step at which the beams are laid, the choice of the thickness of the boards for the supports depends. The structure should easily tolerate possible loads without deforming the floor.
- Logs are transverse boards lying on the end sides. They serve as the basis for laying the finished floor in the form floor boards or using plywood or other tile backing.
- Insulation material is filled between the bars. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that there is a gap between the insulation and the finished floor for ventilation.
- Vapor barrier and waterproofing, allowing you to protect the insulating material from moisture entering it.
- Finish floor with or without sheet and tile backing. When using boards, they are laid on bars, and finishing coatings such as laminate, parquet, tiles are placed on a leveling layer of tile material.
When using an insulated coating, it is necessary to take care of damping gaps for ventilation under the floor.
Technology for creating an insulated pie on beams
The constituent elements and layers of the first floor are clear. Now we should consider the installation process and the nuances of each layer.
Priming
Soil compaction Soil preparation should be carried out during the construction of the house, before the start of work on arranging the floor.
- Inside strip foundation a layer of soil with vegetation is removed to a depth of 15-20 cm. In this case, local soil removal can be done in the places where the pillars are installed.
- An uneven base is leveled with sand with a moisture content of no more than 4%. Dry soil is poured on top of the sand at the level of the removed soil and compacted thoroughly.
- The backfill base is moistened and crushed stone or gravel several centimeters deep must be pressed into its structure.
- On top of the bulk soil there should be a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture, which is compacted and compacted.
Attention! Replacing soft layers of soil is necessary in advance, because crushed stone and sand on the surface are compacted over time and form a stable surface for laying brick pillars.
Brick pillars for beams
On the compacted soil surface, a layer of roofing felt waterproofing should be laid under the posts. Brick pillars are built on top of the waterproofing layer, on which the beams for the floors will be laid.
It is advisable to apply a waterproofing layer between the pillars so that moisture cannot penetrate into the underground space.
Brick pillars Brick pillars must be lined up at the level of the foundation, because the beams will lie on the foundation, and the pillars will perform a reinforcing function.
The distance between the pillars should be 70-100 cm in one row, and between the rows - 180-220 cm. The beams are used with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.
Installation of lags
The logs are laid perpendicular to the incident light so that the finishing coating lies along the windows. If Sun rays in the direction of the boards, the gaps between them are better visible.
Support system for finished floor First of all, the outer ones are placed, establishing a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Subsequently, intermediate ones are laid.
For supports under the final coating, bars with a cross-section of 150x50 mm are used, which are attached to the beams with angles. At correct installation previous structural elements in level, the bars will be laid faster and easier. In this case, it is still necessary to check the level with a rule of 2 meters, because there may be individual defects in the bars.
Skull bars and subfloor
Usage insulation material, without using subfloors, it is impossible.
The subfloor is installed from unedged boards or low grade plywood screwed into cranial bars cross section 4x4 cm.
Skull block The cranial bars are attached either from the bottom end side across, or from the lower side between the logs longitudinally. The second option is preferable because this method of fastening ensures the strength of the structure.
A subfloor of 20 mm boards is laid on top of the skull blocks and a layer of vapor barrier is placed on them. Thus, when attaching 4 cm cranial bars and 2 cm boards, 7 cm out of 9 remain for insulating material. As already mentioned, lay the insulation without a gap flush with the upper end side of the bars - do not allow air to ventilate above it.
Insulation circuit
Rolled mineral wool Various materials can be used as insulation. The most common and popular material is mineral wool. It is worth noting several nuances of laying slabs mineral wool.
- There are different thicknesses of mineral wool. It is better to use a thermal insulation circuit made of mineral wool slabs in 2 layers, rather than 1. This will allow top layer slabs to cover the joints of the lower layer.
- If it is necessary to insulate 7 cm out of the 9 remaining board heights, you can use slabs of various thicknesses of 45 and 30 mm.
- When choosing mineral wool as an insulation material, you should pay attention that there is a standard material width of 61 cm. Thus, the bars can be installed in increments of 60 cm so that you do not have to cut the slabs.
- When using another step, it is worth considering that you need to cut the width of the slabs 1 cm wider so that the material fits between the boards with emphasis on the sides.
Important! If you use expanded clay as insulation, then with the same thickness of the insulating layer, the heat-shielding properties will be 2 times less.
Insulation layers
The insulation material must be protected from moisture and water from the upper side of the room, therefore a waterproofing layer is laid.
Polyethylene film can be used as a waterproofing material. The sheets are laid overlapping each other by 20-25 cm and secured with construction tape.
Finish floors
Finish floors can be made of tongue and groove boards. With a step of support bars of 60 cm, convenient for laying mineral wool, there will be optimal thickness boards 35 mm. When using a smaller pitch, you can use smaller thickness of boards.
You can lay plywood or OSB boards 16-20 mm thick, on top of which there is a finishing coating.
The floor pie along the beams of the first floor has a multi-layer structure. In order for wooden structures to serve the required period, it is necessary to comply with the technical rules for laying each layer.
No one disputes the triumphant return of wood flooring; their environmental friendliness and durability have been proven over decades of use. It will not be a secret that such “revolutionary materials” as carpet and laminate are made on the basis of polymers and contain substances harmful to others. It's a classic - the warmth and cozy color of natural wood will make the interior of any home comfortable to live in.
General requirements
Any object made of wood implies, first of all, installation of floors in a log house from similar material. This solution will create harmony between the walls and flooring. The technology for laying wooden flooring has been known for a long time, but the improvement of technological procedures continues to this day. The structural scheme for arranging a wooden covering consists of:
- preparatory (rough) layer;
- finishing flooring.
Regardless of execution the flooring must meet these requirements, How:
- water resistance;
- aesthetics;
- abrasion resistance;
- hygiene;
- durability;
- installation manufacturability.
In addition, the coating must be warm, easy to clean, have high sound insulation properties and match the interior of the building.
Options for installing floors in a wooden log house and the main structural elements
Experts advise using two most common methods arrangement plank covering in a private house:
- on the ground using logs;
- along the floor beams.
The choice of option depends on the design of the object and should be carried out on initial stages design construction. In buildings with two levels and rooms with a basement The second method is almost always used - along floor beams. His advantage is complete isolation from the ground Moreover, such a structure increases the rigidity of the entire structure. Flaw such installation of floors along logs in wooden log house consists of increased noise, but the use of special noise-absorbing pads will reduce the noise level.
Option with flooring on the ground provides for the installation of supports on which logs are subsequently placed. Thus, connection with walls is excluded and, accordingly, sound and vibration vibrations are minimal. The base for the supports can be masonry made of red brick or concrete. Important! The supports are formed in rows with spans equal to the distance between the logs, usually 0.5-1 meter. A layer of roofing material must be laid under the base of the logs. During work, regularly check the horizontal lag level; their joints should only be on the support columns.
It would be useful to remove a layer of soil to a depth of about 40-50 cm and then fill the underground space with gravel, crushed stone or river sand.
Depending on the operating conditions of the living space plank flooring divided into two types:
- single– for properties intended for seasonal residence;
- double– for premises with permanent residence.
First option installation of floors in wooden log houses most often used in country houses where people spend the summer season. Double design is being formed in permanent buildings and implies the use insulation, as well as layers of vapor and sound insulation.
Technology for laying single wood flooring
In rooms with small area the beams are mounted and attached directly to the wall. If laying logs on support posts is being considered, then it is necessary to take into account the requirements that will ensure reliability general design. Let's say the gap between the pillars is 0.8 m - the load-bearing beams must have a cross-section of at least 100X100 mm. If the parameters between the supports are increased to 1 meter, beams of 120X120 mm will be required. The logs are mounted across the room at intervals corresponding to the thickness of the boards. For example, a distance of 0.5 m will be enough to install a 28 mm coating. For quality installation of floors in a wooden log house tongue and groove lumber is used from coniferous or hardwood with a thickness of 28-40 mm. Traditional location – perpendicular to the wall with windows. The material is fixed with nails; their length is taken from 2.5 times the thickness of the lumber. Possible two fastening methods:
- ordinary;
- parquet.
The essence conventional method is that the nail is driven into the face of the board. Second option- This driving a nail at a 45° angle into the corner of the ridge.
Important! The very first plank is laid at a distance of 10-15 mm from the wall. It is recommended to carry out the laying first parquet method, i.e. Only every sixth board is fixed. As the material dries, the floor can be re-laid with less labor. Wedges are used to compact the rows; the gap should not exceed 1 mm.
In order to ventilate the underground space, it is necessary to arrange openings in the corners of the floor that close decorative grilles. Its design should prevent the entry of foreign objects and water during cleaning. It should be remembered that there are not enough vents in the flooring, and provide windows for ventilation in the basement of the building in advance.
If you have decided to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the design of all elements of the building. The roof, walls (outdoor, indoor), ceilings and floor are made in the form of a “pie”, a multi-layer structure. If all the technology is followed, then we actually get a thermos.
The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combination of components of a multilayer structure.
So the roof has its own set of layers, and the floor has its own. In this article we will look at the features of the “pie” of the floor of a frame house and installation methods.
Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.
In most cases frame houses erected on or on a type foundation. This is primarily due to the fact that the house is not heavy, up to 16 tons. And a pile foundation is the cheapest, as it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will accept that the foundation of our house has a pile appearance.
To ensure reliable insulation, a double layer is laid. Also, instead of timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.
For attic spaces the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic glass wool (insulation) is left in open form, so the entire load falls on the subfloor of the attic.
Treatment is used to protect all wooden structures. by special means antiseptics and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances; it is better to process everything before installation, each element separately.
If the height allows, then the subfloor is filled from below directly onto the supporting beams. As was said above, everything must be treated with protective agents.
The second method is to make secondary guides on top of the log, but this method is not widespread, as it will require additional costs.
In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of timber measuring 5 x 5 cm. They are attached to the bottom of the logs or beams using self-tapping screws or nails.
Around this place, it is better to use basalt glass wool, and treat the boards well with a penetrating compound.
And the surface of the finished floor is covered metal sheet or a sheet of asbestos.
Base pile foundation
Since we are using a foundation, there is space between the subfloor and the ground. Many people make the mistake of completely sewing up this space.
Thinking they are reducing heat losses, but in fact, moisture accumulates in this space and has nowhere to go, which leads to an acceleration of the process of wood rotting.
To prevent this from happening on opposite sides ventilation holes are left, which are decorated with grilles. You should also not close the vents for the winter.
Installation of heated floors in a frame house
Both water heating and electric heating are used.
Let's start with the electrical method, since it is often used in the installation of heated floors. Cable floors, infrared and heating mats are used. It is best to trust the specialists.
More and more popular lately water heating wooden floor, as it is much cheaper than electric.
Water heating can be arranged in three ways:
- Swedish stove.
- Use of heat-reflecting plates.
- Usage concrete screed.
Swedish stove - Quite an expensive method of installing heated floors.
It is as follows:
You should wait until the concrete has completely set. We get that the Swedish stove is a full-fledged one. Subsequently, we build a frame house on this slab.
Use of heat-reflecting plates.
The foundation has been poured, the walls have been raised, the roof has been installed and windows and doors have been installed. You can start laying floors in a wooden house with your own hands. This stage of work is not difficult, but requires careful attention to detail.
Proper installation of the floor pie is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-cover the entire coating in a few years. Lack of underground ventilation will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.
Subfloor - what is it?
It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes the elements of the building unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not embed logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed someday. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.
It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by arranging sufficiently sized vents in the base or foundation. According to the standards, in the underground without forced ventilation The area of the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the area of the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unflattering.
When the flooring is ready, you can begin insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.
Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what is the difference?
Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?
Under hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-proof films, you can even use simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from the wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture outside are not useful here - all the evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.
But on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (minimum 5 cm). If the joist boards are not high enough, a counter batten is nailed along them, on top of the membrane, on which the finished floor is laid.
Floor insulation - why is it necessary?
Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises up. By this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!
All due to the same convection - air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and energy resources are also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.
Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;
- polystyrene foam and its derivatives are not susceptible to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, they are lightweight and inexpensive, but they create a “greenhouse effect” in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.
Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, you just need to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.
Finish floor and its types
Depending on the desired interior design, you can lay almost any floor in a wooden house:
Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and bathroom – places with high humidity.
In addition, there are variations with the device of warm wooden floors and even concrete screed on the joists. So the choice depends only on construction skills and design preferences.
DIY technology for laying floors in a wooden house
Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry the winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games outside. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it would be a shame not to use it!
Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality
In a wooden house, it is difficult to make a warm floor in a concrete screed, but it is quite possible:
- The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the joists in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finished floor, will be about 150 kg/sq.m, and this does not take into account furniture and residents. When pouring concrete, the pitch of the beams is halved, and the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).
- A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is to not install a subfloor. Enough to secure at the bottom vapor barrier film slats so that the insulation boards do not sag.
- On top of the lag with mandatory ventilation gap Thick waterproofing is laid at a distance of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all places where it is attached to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.
- Slate or cement bonded particle board– they have the best adhesion to concrete. Formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. It is laid on substrates made of the same slate reinforcement mesh. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
- A “snail” of heated floor pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the mesh using ordinary cable clamps. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and the reinforcement to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.
- To protect yourself, a test run of underfloor heating systems with increased pressure is carried out. If no leaks are found, you can start filling.
- After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it using a long rule. Concrete needs to be watered for 1-2 weeks to gain strength. After a month, you can begin laying any floor covering.
Wooden floors - simple and beautiful
If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight concrete slab, no need to be upset! After all, you can make a dry heated floor with water heating. To do this, you will need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The entire process is presented in detail in the video:
A finished wooden floor is laid on joists different ways. Which technology is optimal in a particular case depends on many factors, including the financial capabilities of the owner, geological and climatic features. The classical method is always taken as the basis for all technologies. What options for flooring in a wooden house are most often used, their design features will be discussed in this article.
By lags we usually mean timber rectangular section, but in fact this concept includes several design solutions at once:
- The thinnest part of a log has a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
- A log hewn on both sides with a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
- Boards joined in pairs with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 25 mm;
- A rectangular beam with different sections depending on the future load. The cross-section of the floor joists is calculated depending on the load and step width. In accordance with GOST, the minimum applicable section is 100x150 mm in increments of 60 cm;
- Metal I-beam channel;
- Laths used during dry leveling and insulation;
- Long-dimensional plastic elements used to complete screeds in the factory.
Method of laying lags
Any logs made from various materials have one functional purpose: fixing and installing the finished and subfloor in a wooden house.
According to the installation design, beams are divided into:
- Laying on wooden beams;
- Laying on slabs;
- Laying on a support pole;
- Laying on prepared soil.
The relationship between floor design and groundwater occurrence
From the proximity of occurrence groundwater and design features determine whether there will be a subfloor or not. The shorter the distance from the joists to the ground, the less labor-intensive the installation. The design is distinguished according to GOST according to the level of seasonal location of groundwater, they also dictate the type of construction:
- If the groundwater is low, then you can make the most simple design floor without subfloor. This option can be seen in dacha construction or in garden houses. For the southern regions and in middle lane In Russia, this method is appropriate in residential construction if the base of the house is higher than 1 m.
- If groundwater is close to the soil surface, then the wooden floor and joists must be protected from harmful effects. In this case, support columns are laid out from sand-lime brick or concrete.
You can find out the groundwater level in the area and determine which floor structure is most suitable for construction on a map from the local weather service.
Classic floor design
As we have already said, all floor designs are divided into: with and without underground space. Without an underground device, it is cold and needs to be insulated. Several methods have been invented for this. Floors with subfloors are more interesting. They are made thermally insulated or not. Thermally insulated ones are divided depending on the location of the insulating part: between supports or joists. Among the wider variety, the simplest is a cold floor device.
Features of installing a classic cold floor
Laying on dry soil is carried out in several stages:
- Soil preparation: the soil-vegetative layer is removed and the earth is compacted,
- The second stage is to fill the sand cushion; to save money, you can use construction garbage mixing it with sand or crushed stone with sand. This pillow is again carefully compacted. You can compact layers hand tools, which is made from a heavy block and bar. which is attached from above across.
- The frame for the floor is made from another layer of sand or clay or slag. This layer should have a thickness of 2-3 times the cross-section of the timber used as a lag. The main thing is that this layer is dry enough and protects the wooden floor from moisture. This layer is filled flush with the joists of the future floor.
The most economical option construction is considered to be the use of slag, but it needs to rest before use, so you need to purchase it a year before installation.
Since wood is susceptible to fungi and mold, before laying wooden logs in finishing layer need to be coated with an antiseptic and dried. The logs are laid in increments of 60-65 cm, this is enough for a structure made of tongue and groove boards 35-40 mm wide. If you use a wide board for the floor in a wooden house in a cold way, then over time it will warp. Do not forget that such a tan must have ventilation. Ventilation acts as an exhaust hood; it must be done in the form of holes in the baseboards on both sides.
When laying floor joists important point is their location. Each board is cut from wood that has tree rings, they are worth focusing on. The laying should be such that the pattern is directed in opposite directions for each subsequent board, so they will not allow each other to warp.
Features of installing an insulated classic floor
This option for installing a floor in a wooden house is laid on a kind of pie along wooden beams. The construction of a pie is intended for hydro- and thermal insulation of a wooden floor. The main layers of the cake along the beams are carried out in stages:
- A pit is dug, the bottom of which is lined insulating material, for example, roofing felt or bags of lime or cement. If bags are selected, they are laid out in 2 layers.
- The next step is to pour a black cushion 8-10 cm thick and carefully compact it and fill it with a lime solution (5 parts water x 1 part lime).
- All this is covered with a waterproofing layer, for example from roofing felt. The joints are glued with bitumen solution.
- The next layer of the cake consists of fiberboard. The slabs are taken with a thickness of 30 mm.
- An expanded clay cushion of fine fraction material 8-9 cm thick is poured onto the fiberboard.
- The very final layer of the pie will be poured from concrete, the main part of which is sand.
- Then logs are laid in increments of 60 cm, onto which the floor is attached.
These are diagrams of a classic floor design without an underground with insulation. But for residential buildings this option is not the best. For wooden house in urban areas it is better to use a structure with an underground, where insulation occurs along the beams from above, which we will discuss below.
Classic floor design with underground
For this design, soil preparation is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first two cases. The most important difference in the design is that instead of a sand cushion, in this case they use laid out pillars or solid concrete ones. The pillars are laid on a pre-filled foundation, each one has its own or is common to all. The width of the foundation structure should be 5-6 cm wider than the column.
In a floor structure with an underfloor, the finishing boards must be laid “in a cross” with joists. It is good if the direction of the wooden floorboards is parallel to the light falling from the window in the room. If the floor does not have a sheathing on top for additional insulation, then the logs are mounted across the direction of the boards. All measurements are carried out starting from the central axes of the columns and joists. The top of the columns is covered with a layer of roofing felt waterproofing. The first joist is mounted with a gap of 10-20 cm from the wall, and the same is done with the opposite final joist.
The subfloor of a cold structure is covered with a cushion of expanded clay or slag. But you should always leave 5-6 cm up to the joists unfilled, this will be a ventilated gap. To ensure better ventilation of the underground space, holes are made in the baseboard. According to GOST, ventilation for an area of 15 m2 requires 2 holes. To ensure better ventilation, they are made on opposite sides of a wooden house. And to prevent rodents from getting into the ventilation, a metal mesh is installed in the device.
There are more modern way a ventilation device when the main pipe is taken underground and ventilation is carried out under the influence of natural draft.
The main difference between a heated floor with an underground and a cold floor is the additional lathing on the joists along the beams, not from the underground side, but from the side of the house where the insulation is installed. For this design, a strip is nailed on both sides along the beams, which will hold the sheathing. Waterproofing made of ordinary PVC film is laid on the sheathing, on top of which mineral wool is laid or expanded clay from a fine fraction is poured. But there should be a ventilated gap between the top point of the log and the insulation. To ventilate the underground space, in this case, ventilation is done in the basement of the house in increments of 5-6 m. winter time years, the odorants in the base are closed, the easiest way to do this is polyurethane foam, in the spring you can simply cut it out with a stationery knife.
These are the main design options classic model floors in a wooden house, which are complemented by various components. Wooden floors in the house are environmentally friendly and beautiful, but after installation various problems may appear, such as squeaking. We'll talk about how to deal with this later.
How to deal with squeaky floors
To understand how to eliminate a squeak, you need to find its cause. And there may be several of these: the board rubs against a nail, creaks itself batten, logs creak, baseboards are installed incorrectly, ventilation is not provided and the floor gets wet, etc.
If the reason is in the logs, you need to carefully examine the logs of the wooden floor and, if there are any unevenness, they should be trimmed. If the creaking does not stop after this, then the joist needs to be replaced.
If the reason is the board, you need to carefully examine how the boards move when a person walks along them and see if they rub against each other. To solve the problem, you can try pouring talc between the boards or pouring PVA glue. In fact, there are many ways, but there are several traditional ways combating creaking wooden floors:
- A wooden wedge is driven into the gap between the creaking boards.
- If this does not help, a screw is driven between the boards, the head of which is bitten off, and the hole is filled with putty and painted over.
- This is the most labor-intensive method using pins. The joints of the floorboards are shot with holes of 10-15 mm in increments of 15-30 cm. Round pins are made from wood and carefully coated with PVA glue and driven into the holes. The surface is sanded and painted.
- The floorboard in creaking areas is additionally screwed to the joists with hardened self-tapping screws in increments of 50 mm.
- Thin strips are cut out of felt, laid out along the length of the floor in increments of 40-50 mm and covered with fiberboard.
Any of the methods is considered effective against squeaking, but when correct installation wooden floor on joists, even a structure made of ordinary boards will be quiet.