Correct installation of flooring in a wooden house. Correct flooring on wooden joists: options for laying on different bases. Floor insulation with expanded clay

Wooden log, timber, frame houses are becoming more and more in demand. Many construction companies and teams have appeared that have accumulated great experience construction of such houses using new materials, tools, accessories and measuring instruments. New wooden houses meet everything modern requirements quality of housing.

Peculiarities

Our ideas about home warmth, comfort, natural purity and safety. It is clear that in terms of strength and durability, a wooden house and some of its parts cannot compete with concrete, composite and other modern objects and structures.

Comfort in the home is largely determined by the characteristics of the wooden floor:

• strength, at which the elements do not bend or creak;
• long-term preservation of shape and original appearance;
• warm in feel;
• has beauty and attractiveness.

The beauty of a wooden floor, not covered with carpet or linoleum, has its own unique feature.

Floor installation is not new to people of any generation; its technology has been developed over centuries and anyone can master the preparation of materials and carry out all the work. It is important to familiarize yourself with the work procedure, master one of the many technologies, get acquainted with the tools and devices and begin work, observing safety measures.

What to cover with?

Several types of wood boards and plastic materials are suitable for laying rough and finished floors. Tile and plywood materials can be used in sheathing, surface covering and in the formation of subfloors.

Plywood is one of the best finishing and construction products. These are glued sheets of veneer, located mutually perpendicular in the direction of the grain. Due to its high strength, varied colorful texture, and ease of use, plywood can be used both for subfloors and for finishing finishing. Available in sizes 1.5x1.5 meters, 1.5x3.0 meters. The thickness of the material can be from 8 to 30 mm. The cost of plywood depends on the original wood from which the veneer is obtained.

OSB – particle board. It is obtained by pressing flat wood chips impregnated with moisture-resistant resin. These plates are used for various partitions, bases for blocks with flexible tiles, for creating large packaging and in other similar cases. For floors wooden house used as intermediate layers. Thickness – from 9 to 20mm, dimensions – 1.22x2.44 meters.

Chipboard Quick Deck Moisture-resistant contains wood shavings and moisture-resistant resin. The surface is hardened, smooth, trimming without chips or scratches. Can be used in laying finished floors, partitions, and ceilings. Thickness and dimensions comply with Russian GOST.

DSP ( Cement particle board) includes wood shavings, cement, binders and other substances. Moisture-resistant, fungus-resistant, fire-resistant, rigid, durable, environmentally friendly. Suitable for use on subfloors. Thickness – from 8 to 24 mm, dimensions – 1.2x3.2 meters.

Constructions

Depending on the type of supports used, the floor can be load-bearing or floating. When supported by load-bearing or support beams, the floor will be connected to the walls of the house and there will be mutual influence when the walls or floor are deformed. For a monolithic connection with walls, beams or metal channels are used. If the support is on pillars, then this option is called floating. Most often it is used when laying a house on the ground with close proximity to soil water.

Support pillars can be made of red burnt brick or monolithic concrete pillars, made with formwork or using asbestos-cement pipes and placed inside them with a frame made of steel reinforcement. IN modern construction use supports on screw piles, which are fixed in nests in the ground.

Floor structures are placed on a supporting base and on floors. The role of such a base is performed by soil, interfloor, basement or basement floors.

"Pie", or flooring, is divided into two types:

• Single flooring made from prepared wooden planks. This type of floor is easy to construct, use and possible repairs in future. Often used in country houses for seasonal use;
• Double type of covering for houses with permanent residence. The technology for this type involves the construction of two decks - a finishing one with finishing and rough, or subfloor. The gap between them is space for insulation and protection from moisture.

When interfloor foundations (floors) are installed, there is no need for steam and thermal insulation, it is enough just to isolate them from noise. If it is planned to install bathrooms on the upper floors, then there must be protection against leaks.

Thermal protection, insulation and heating are given special attention if the warm second floor is separated by a floor from the cold basement or basement.

Heating

We lay a vapor barrier on the laid subfloor, and fill the gaps between the joists with insulation (mineral wool). Penoplex or foil polyethylene foam is placed on top. At the junctions of walls and floors we use polyurethane foam. Before laying the finished floor, lay a layer on top vapor barrier material. The laid clean layer can be additionally covered with thickened linoleum or carpet.

For many residents, such a scheme is enough to preserve heat, but some also need heated heated floors. Installing heated floors is becoming more and more attractive in home improvement and increasing its comfort.

Floor heating is produced by thermal devices different types, but with the mandatory presence of instruments and sensors to maintain a certain temperature regime.

Heating options:

• Innings hot water into heating pipes;
• Heating by electric heating cable;
• Heating by infrared radiation.

With the water method of heating floors, they are placed in a concrete screed heating pipes. These can be polyethylene, metal-plastic and copper pipes, through which hot water transfers thermal energy.

A simple solution to supply hot water to these pipes would be to connect to common system heating in apartment building, but it is administratively difficult. Obtaining such permission from utility services, ordering a project and agreeing with the building management is far from an easy task.

In a private house, solving the issue of installing a warm water floor, you can get a safe, durable and cost-effective scheme for maintaining a comfortable thermal regime.

IN electrical systems heating systems use a shielded heating cable in combination with temperature sensors as the main heat source.

Infrared floors are a thin film with carbon strips between its layers. These strips, receiving power from the electrical network, emit infrared thermal radiation, which heats the space around them.

It is better to entrust the installation of a floor heating system to specialists who will carry out all the work in accordance with the agreed project.

How to choose?

IN log house right choice The type of floor is determined by the number of floors, the climatic characteristics of the area of ​​residence, and the purpose of the rooms. First floor requires special attention for all types of insulation, primarily moisture and thermal. If possible, they are heated.

The second floor of a wooden house is protected from moisture and cold and will require lower costs for flooring. A larger selection of floor coverings can be presented here - from linoleum to parquet made from expensive species.

For a dacha on the ground floor would be better suited finished floor, made of boards of the same species from which the walls are made. The boards should be laid out so that they lie parallel from the entrance to the opposite window. It is better to place a bathtub or shower on the first floor, and if there is a need to use the second floor, then it is best to use it for the bathroom ceramic slabs without allowing water to leak.

How to lay it?

IN wooden house Floor boards can be laid on logs, which are better laid with a grid. The step of their installation depends on the thickness of the floorboard. The thicker the veneer board, the thinner the lag mesh. They can be used as timber, half timber, or massive boards placed on edge. They can be placed on the ground, brick supports, beams, concrete base. Before making the joists as floor supports, they are kept indoors for several days to acclimatize. Then you need to treat them with an antiseptic and water-repellent compound.

Colors

The color range for doors and floors is more limited compared to walls, but the choice of shades expands.

Laminate, parquet boards, linoleum, carpet, baseboards and other design elements diversify our selection:

• The light shade reflects light and enlarges the space, adding a new feeling of freshness and transparency. For the living room and bedroom it is good decision, but it is necessary that the colors of the walls enliven the atmosphere;
• The dark shade gives a feeling of stability. It is suitable for rooms where there is a lot of sun. If you choose accessories that contrast with the tone of the floor, you can get a fairly harmonious look.

Painting

Sometimes designers recommend painting the finished floor in accordance with the overall color scheme Houses. Such work will require initial surface preparation. We check the entire floor area that needs to be painted. Floorboards should not creak; they need to be adjusted or restored. It is necessary to remove all irregularities and drive protruding heads of nails and screws into the wood. Any part of the surface with a defect should be repaired and puttied.

You can make the putty yourself. You need to mix sawdust, drying oil and oil paint. You can mix sawdust with PVA glue. After such preparation, you need to wash the floor with soapy water and allow it to dry for 2-3 days.

The mixture for painting should be at oil based, but you can use any other paint prepared as floor paint. You need to paint in at least two layers. After the first layer, you need to give 2-3 days to dry, after applying the second layer, the drying time is up to 5 days.

When applying the final coat, the brush movement should be parallel to the grain of the floorboards. Otherwise general form the coating will appear defective. There can be several technologies for applying floor paint.

Wooden flooring is a classic solution in construction and renovation. No modern composite materials can replace the warmth and environmental friendliness of wood. Despite the fact that wood is inferior to concrete or composites in terms of strength and reliability, its natural attractiveness will remain popular among builders for a long time. The installation of a floor in a wooden house has been worked out for many generations, so it should not cause any special problems even for not very experienced craftsmen.

Arrange the floor in wooden building possible by various technologies. Let's consider the procedure for performing the work, the materials, tools and equipment used.

Floor diagram in a wooden house on pillar supports

Construction of a floor of this design is advisable if you do not intend to lay support or load-bearing beams into the walls of your house for the construction of the floor. In this case, the floor will be constructed according to a free “floating” scheme and will not be connected in any way to the external walls of the building. Also, this floor design is used in the construction of floors in wooden buildings on soils with a high level of soil water.

The flooring in a house made of wood of this design can be divided into two types.

• Single plank flooring. This type of floor is the easiest to construct and subsequently use and repair. It is recommended to use this design in small country houses built for seasonal use.
• Double floor. This type of floor is built in buildings intended for year-round use. When using this technology, two floorings are built: black and finished, insulation is placed between them to prevent heat loss and moisture penetration.

Technology for constructing floors in houses made of wooden materials on supports

Step 1. Excavate the soil in your subfloor space. The pit must be dug more than half a meter deep from the lower level of the planned floor. Place a cushion of crushed stone, gravel or cleared of organic matter in the dug pit. river sand. It is recommended that the upper edge of the cushion rise above the ground level in the area near the foundation by about 20 centimeters.

Step 2. Floor support pillars can be formed from red burnt brick. So, if you plan to lay the floor on supports 25 centimeters high, then its optimal width will be 1.5 bricks. If the support height is more than 25 centimeters, the pillar is placed in two bricks.

There are other technologies for installing supports. For example, you can place monolithic concrete pillars in the underground. In this case, the concrete solution is poured into a pre-built wooden formwork, inside which a metal frame made of reinforcement is mounted.

Concrete mortar can also be poured into sections of asbestos-cement pipes installed vertically and deepened into a gravel bed, inside which a reinforcement frame is also placed.

In any case, when choosing a technology for constructing support pillars, you need to pay attention to their uniform upper level. Best device for control - this laser level or level. The distance between the support pillars horizontally and vertically is about a meter.

Step 3. A layer of waterproofing is laid on each support pillar. The easiest way to do this is to use two combined layers of sheet insulation, for example roofing felt.

Step 4.A wooden plate 30 mm thick is placed on the waterproofing layer.

Step 5.Log beams are laid on the support pillars. They are usually built from thick wooden beams cut from coniferous species wood and treated with an antiseptic. The connection points of the lags should be on the support pillars. During construction, control the horizontal position of the upper surface of the joists. The position of the joists can be adjusted using counter wedges. Depending on the width of the wooden boards used in the construction of the floor, the distance between adjacent logs can vary in the range of 60-80 cm.

Step 6.Plank flooring is laid on the laid joists. To create an aesthetic appearance, wooden boards It is better to lay it parallel to the directions of light falling from the windows of the room. The first board is laid with a gap from the wall of up to 15 mm. Then this space will be covered with a plinth, but the gap will ensure the movement of air into the underground space.

Step 7.Solid wood boards are attached to joists using nails. The minimum length of the connecting nail should be twice the thickness of the board. The nails are driven in at an angle so that the axis of rotation of the nail does not coincide with the plane of the interface between the board and the supporting beam. Optimal angle tilt - 30-45 degrees to the vertical. The heads of the nails are completely recessed into the board with blows from the sharp side of the hammer. Then, after the puttying and painting process, the nail heads will disappear from view.

We nail the boards at an acute angle

Step 8.A plinth strip is nailed on top of the boards along the perimeter of the walls. A temporary plinth is installed near two walls of the room opposite each other, which is fixed a couple of centimeters from the walls. The slots will provide ventilation until the final drying of the array of boards, and then they will be covered with a permanent baseboard.

Please note that if a room with a floor on concrete or brick pillars is not heated in winter time, the supports may “lead” and the geometry of the wooden floor structure will be disrupted. A layer of slag can provide additional thermal insulation to the underground space, but there must be a space of at least 5 centimeters between its upper edge and the wooden floor to ensure ventilation.

How to Build a Single Plank Floor in a Wooden House

If, when building walls in a wooden house, you provided for laying support beams, then the most affordable way to build a floor would be to lay a single plank floor. Typically the gap between the support beams is at least a meter.

1. Logs for laying the floor are mounted on top of the support beams. For their construction, wooden beams with a side of 50-60 millimeters are used. The distance between the joists depends on the width of the tongue and groove board used for flooring:
   - if you use a board with a thickness of 30 mm, then the distance between the lags should be no more than half a meter;
   - if you use a tongue and groove board with a thickness of 400 mm or more, then optimal distance between the logs will be 50-60 centimeters.
2. When laying sheathing from logs, be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper level of the beams. It is advisable to use a laser or a regular building level for this, adjusting the height of the log using counter wedges tapped under it.
3. The logs are fixed to the load-bearing beams using long nails or carpenter's staples.

1. The plank floor of a single structure is laid directly on the joists. To lay the finished floor in one layer, a tongue and groove board is used. Its fastening is traditional: the next board is inserted into the lock of the previous one, adjusted by tapping with a mallet, and then nailed to the joist with a long nail that enters the body of the board at a slight slope. The heads of the nails are recessed into the body of the board. If you plan to place the finishing floor covering on the floor in one layer, then it is possible to use unedged boards.

1. The finished tongue and groove flooring is sanded and then varnished or painted. A finishing decorative coating, for example, linoleum, is laid on the rough layer of the floor.

It's very fast and affordable way floor structure in a wooden building. However, the thermal insulation of such a structure leaves much to be desired, and in a house designed for year-round use, it is better to build a double floor structure.

We build a floor in two layers in a wooden structure

Unlike a single floor, a double floor consists of two layers: finishing and rough.

Step 1

Logs are mounted on the supporting load-bearing beams, to which additional cranial bars are nailed.

Step 2

Boards of the rough flooring layer are nailed to the additional cranial bars in the transverse direction. Can be used unedged board coniferous species of varying thickness (15-45 mm). Before laying, the boards are treated with an antiseptic. The laid boards are tightly fitted to each other so that minimal gaps remain.

Step 3

A layer of vapor barrier made of durable polyethylene is laid on the rough flooring. Its stripes overlap.

Step 5

Logs are laid on the subfloor. Their height is selected depending on the required level of insulation (usually 50 mm).

Step 6

There is an insulating layer between the joists. The choice of insulation material depends solely on your budget and preferences:

• rolled out roll of mineral wool;
• boards made of foamed polymer (for example, polystyrene foam);
• a layer of backfill material, such as expanded clay or a mixture of clay and sawdust;
• heated water floor piping system.

Step 7

Another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer. If you are building a warm water floor in the thickness of a wooden one, the top layer of waterproofing is not used. When building a floor with passive thermal insulation, a gap of 1-1.5 centimeters is left between the upper edge of the thermal insulation layer.

Step 8

Tongue and groove boards are laid on top of this entire “sandwich”. The technology for their installation has already been described above.

Step 9

During installation, ventilation holes with a cross-section of about 5 centimeters are left in the corners of the room, which are closed decorative grilles. The surface of the gratings is raised above the floor by a couple of centimeters. This elevation protects the grille from moisture.

The underground is also ventilated through windows in the basement walls. In winter, all types of ventilation windows are closed.

Features of floor construction on the first floor of wooden buildings

When installing a floor on the lower first or ground floor a wooden house above unheated basements has certain features.

Cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground)

A cold floor located directly on the ground (without underground) is built when there is dry soil under the house and when the ceiling of the first floor of the building is high. The underground of such a floor consists of 4 layers:

• compacted sand cushion;
• dry, clean, calcined sand;
• lag (beams made of coniferous trees with a thickness of more than 15 centimeters), buried in the poured soil base and resting on excavations in external walls premises;
• single plank flooring with a thickness of 30-40 mm.

Insulated floor with unheated underground space

The procedure for constructing an insulated floor with an unheated underground space

1. Placement in the underground of a pillow made of compacted sand cleared of organic matter (thickness 10-15 cm).
2. Installation of support posts at least half a meter high. Very simple and in an economical way installation of supports will be filled concrete mortar into sections of vertically standing pipes with a metal frame inside.
3. Laying a double layer of waterproofing on the surface of the supports.
4. Placement of wooden dies 30 mm thick.
5. Laying load-bearing joists.
6. In order to thermally insulate the floor when using this technology, slats (about 15 mm in cross-section) are nailed to the side ends of the joists, on which a rough floor layer of cut unedged boards is laid.
7. Placed on the rough layer of flooring vapor barrier film and a layer of insulation (flooring level just below the finished floor). A plank floor or wood board covering is laid on top of the beams.

Cold floor with heated underground space

A cold floor with a heated underground space is used in construction on soils with low level soil water. The technology for its installation is the same as the previous one, up to the stage of installing the subfloor. After installing the logs, a finished floor is mounted on top of them without creating a heat-insulating layer.

Watch the instructional video to learn more about the construction steps.

Video - Installing a floor in a wooden house

A wooden house is a house with an almost ideal microclimate and good air exchange. One of the few things that can cause discomfort here is the cold floor under your feet. Unfortunately, such a drawback is often found even in houses of permanent construction: during construction, someone did not want to spend time and effort on constructing a double floor - and all efforts to insulate the room were nullified. But you shouldn’t give up on a house where there are drafts on the floor. Insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not such a complicated or time-consuming procedure.

So where to start?
Floor insulation on the ground floor is usually achieved by creating a double floor system:

Video floor insulation:

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ground floor floor in a wooden house is completed.
This type of heated floor is also suitable if the log house is made from rounded logs, laminated veneer lumber or profiled timber.

Insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor.

If the house is brick, and the floor of the first floor is concrete, then the order of work is somewhat different. True, a concrete floor can also appear in a wooden house; this does not affect the sequence of work.

In general, a concrete floor is the coldest type of floor imaginable, and therefore necessarily needs insulation.

So, let's begin.

Option one: raised floor. The disadvantage can be considered that the floor rises by no less than 6 cm, and, consequently, the ceiling height becomes noticeably lower.

1. We start by cleaning the concrete floor; during the process, you can level it and inspect it for defects.
2. We lay a waterproofing membrane to prevent moisture from penetrating through the concrete floor into the insulation mass and the finished floor.
3. We lay the logs in increments of 50 cm. The thickness of the logs is at least five centimeters, otherwise the thermal insulation effect will not be achieved.
4. We fill the space between the joists with insulation of your choice.
5. We lay the finished floor from two layers of waterproof wood board. They are placed in a checkerboard pattern, with a mandatory gap of 2 cm between the wood slab and the wall, to compensate seasonal fluctuations size of slabs.

concrete sweat insulation cake diagram

And again - final finishing.

If it is impossible to sacrifice so many centimeters of height, there is a second option for insulating a concrete floor. It is not as effective, but only about 3 centimeters are lost in height, and this can be the best option in a specific case.

This method involves laying wood slabs on a base, which in turn is placed directly on a leveled, clean concrete floor. The wood board is laid in two layers, also in a checkerboard pattern, the seams of each layer are carefully coated with sealant. The second layer is glued to the first with PVA glue, so that the floor does not creak later, and fastened with self-tapping screws. We lay a finishing coating on top of these layers.

Concrete floors are often made in a bathhouse. In technical terms, concrete is impeccable: it tolerates changes in temperature and humidity, does not rot, and has for a long time services. But the contrast between the hot air of the bathhouse and the cold floor under hot feet makes staying in the bathhouse, to put it mildly, uncomfortable.

What to do if the bathhouse has a concrete floor, but there is no desire to freeze your feet? If it is not possible to carry out radical changes, such as demolishing a bathhouse, then it is necessary to improve the existing floor by insulating it.

To do this, a heat-insulating mixture is poured over the existing concrete floor, and concrete screed, see the view below (floor insulation with a heat-insulating mixture):

An example of such a mixture would be a mixture of perlite, cement and water. Foam boards are very effective as thermal insulation. Their thermal conductivity is practically zero, they do not absorb water and are quite durable. The only drawback of polystyrene foam is that it is flammable; under these conditions it does not have the slightest opportunity to manifest itself.

Needless to say, it is better to carry out all these activities not on the finished floor, but to design and calculate in advance, during the construction process. In this case, you can avoid both additional costs and many annoying errors that are detected already during operation.

Insulation of floors on a soil base

It also happens that when repairing the floor on the first floor, when dismantling the floorboards, it is discovered that the floor was soil foundation, the beams are laid directly on the ground, and it becomes clear why in winter it is better not to stand on the floor without warm socks.

Insulating such a floor is a serious undertaking and requires attention and care.
So, the stages of insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house with your own hands, if the base of such a floor is soil.

1. Choosing insulation. This choice determines whether it is necessary to select soil under the floor in order to make a layer of thermal insulation thick enough to perform its functions. So, to insulate a floor with polyurethane foam, only a 4-centimeter layer of this material is required, and if the choice is made in favor of slag, then 40 (!) centimeters are required to achieve the same effect. When choosing, you also need to take into account the degree of hydrophilicity of the thermal insulation material; the heat insulator must be as moisture-proof and moisture-resistant as possible.
2. Leveling the base and laying a waterproofing film on it.
3. Then there may be options: in the first case, logs are laid on top of the bulk heat-insulating layer, which is well leveled and compacted, and do what was described above in the section on insulating a concrete floor: the gaps between the logs are filled with heat-insulating material. In the second option, the base is leveled and compacted, and a heat-insulating material is laid on top of it, for example, sheets of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool, waterproofed on top with roofing felt, and the most top layer There is a concrete or cement-sand screed.
4. And, as always, final finishing of the floor.

Insulation of the floor above the basement without heating

A separate case is the insulation of the floor above a basement without heating. Insulation in this case can be carried out simply without taking into account the basement, as in the case at the beginning, where insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house is described with your own hands, that is, by simply making a warm floor, with the nuance that it is necessary to use mineral materials as thermal insulation slabs or extruded polystyrene foam, since in the area that lies between the floor and the cold basement there is a boundary between warm and cold air, and because of this, water vapor condenses there. Water vapor getting inside the layer thermal insulation material even in small quantities, it can cause the appearance of fungus and mold.

There is also a method of insulating the floor, such as thermal insulation of the basement ceiling. For this polystyrene foam boards glued or secured with plastic dowels to the basement ceiling. The method effectively insulates the floor and is very easy to use. If the appearance of the basement ceiling does not matter, you don’t even need to carry out finishing work.

It would be a good idea to provide the basement itself with good ventilation, because it is easier to protect the house simply from the cold than from cold combined with dampness, and the basement floors will last longer. At the same time, you can insulate the basement walls. Even if there is no provision for a heated room, the desire to avoid unnecessary heat losses is always appropriate.

Insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house with your own hands always requires thoughtfulness and thoroughness; at some points it is not superfluous to draw up a drawing in order to foresee all the difficulties at the planning stage;

Difficulties are caused by the choice of insulation; let’s consider the disadvantages and advantages of basic materials for thermal insulation:

• Expanded clay is inexpensive and available, but requires pouring a very thick layer. In addition, for a good effect, it is necessary to use expanded clay in two sizes so that it can be filled more densely.
• Sawdust is an almost free thing, it has remarkable properties of retaining heat and regulating humidity, but it can harbor rodents and insects, fungus and mold. So if it is not possible to isolate them from these destructive factors, sawdust will have to be removed from the list of preferences. And in addition, sawdust, especially dry sawdust, is very flammable.
• Styrofoam. It is relatively inexpensive and very warm, but its flammability and ability to release a lot of substances that are not beneficial to health during a fire makes us wary. And rodents also live well in it.
• Fiberglass and mineral wool are fireproof, but can absorb moisture and then cake into lumps, reducing their thermal insulation properties.
• Insulation based on molten volcanic rocks, for example, mineral basalt wool. They are the most optimal option in terms of physical qualities. They are durable, have excellent heat and sound insulating qualities, mice and fungus do not live in them, and they are very durable.

Thus, insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house with your own hands gives a great effect and pays off the costs many times over, because the heat and home comfort- priceless.

Today, green construction is in the spotlight, and wood is construction material, takes first place in it. This is facilitated by the fact that the tree is environmentally friendly and available material, which has been processed by humans for many thousands of years. You can see more and more often country houses and wooden cottages that combine nature and technology. As in any other home construction, one of the important stages is creating the floor. The installation of the floor in a wooden house itself is a very important and crucial moment, requiring increased attention to the work being performed. Therefore, in order for the floors in a wooden house to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow the technology of their installation and adhere to certain recommendations and rules.

Floor design and wood selection

The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements: joists, subfloor, hydro- and thermal insulation, finished floor and floor covering. The entire structure is installed on beams or support posts made of brick or concrete. Between the floor and the ground there is an underground, which is carefully ventilated to maintain the wood in optimal condition and create a microclimate on the first floor.

Scheme of a wooden floor

Important! Arrangement wooden floors on the ground is a fairly cheap option, but for their arrangement it is necessary to take into account the level groundwater. If it is high enough and the soils are wet, then you should worry about waterproofing the entire floor structure and high-quality ventilation of the underground.

Since the floor is subject to frequent mechanical stress, the wood for its creation must be selected carefully and adhere to the following rules:

• the humidity of the tree should be 12%, this will directly determine how long the tree will keep its shape;
• the wood must be free of chips and cracks, so that later you do not have to replace or repair part of the floor structure;
• boards should be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, this will help increase fire resistance and avoid damage by pathogenic flora;
• To create a durable and strong structure, you should choose hard coniferous wood - spruce, pine, larch, cedar, fir. Although the most durable will be deciduous oak or ash.

Underground space

Arrangement of underground ventilation

The microclimate in the house and how long the wooden floor will last will depend on how dry and well-ventilated the underground is. Therefore, to ensure ventilation, holes are installed around the perimeter of the base, which, regardless of the time of year and the direction of the winds, will provide natural ventilation. In case the winters are snowy, the underground holes are taken out ventilation pipes with a canopy, and to increase air circulation, you can install several window fans. It is also necessary to take care of protection from various rodents. To do this, grilles with cells up to 8 mm should be installed on all openings.

Wooden floor base

In order for the floor to be strong and durable, it is necessary to prepare quality foundation. Wooden floors in a private home are laid on support beams embedded in the foundation. If the design of a wooden house does not provide for support beams, then you will have to install support columns made of brick or concrete. The only difference is in the supports on which the logs are laid; further work on laying the wooden floor is identical.

If the beams are laid together with the foundation, then support pillars have to be done separately.

We determine places for arranging support columns. To do this, we make marks on the embedded beams and stretch the cord along the entire length of the underground. We do the same in the perpendicular direction. The corners of the posts will be where the cords intersect. It is also necessary to calculate the number of columns so that the step between them is 70-100 cm. The length of the step between the support pillars directly depends on the thickness of the beams or logs that will be laid on the pillars. The thicker the beam or joist, the smaller the step you can take between the pillars. For beams with a cross section of 150x150 mm, the pitch of the supporting pillars should be no more than 80 cm. The dimensions of the recesses for the pillars should correspond to the sides of the pillar. When laying support columns, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the higher the pillars are from the ground, the more stable they should be. Accordingly, the larger their cross-section should be.

Arrangement of concrete support columns for logs

In the places where the pillars are installed, we select soil to a depth of 40-60 cm and lay the pillars themselves. They can be made from brick or concrete. Brick columns with a height of up to 250 mm are laid in “one and a half” or “two” bricks, higher columns are laid in “two” bricks.

Important! For greater reliability of the construction of brick columns, it is advisable to pour a foundation under them, which will protrude at least 5 cm above the ground level. Secure the bricks cement mortar and waterproof.

Concrete pillars are more durable due to the reinforcing mesh inside. The dimensions of the sides of such columns range from 400 mm to 500 mm based on the height of the column itself.

Important! In order for the floor to be level, it is necessary to maintain the horizon even at the stage of laying support columns and beams. To do this, you should constantly check them with a level so that they are all in the same plane.

Then, over the entire area of ​​the future underground, we select a fertile layer of soil, level it and fill it with a layer of gravel, and then sand. Water each layer with water and compact it thoroughly. To do this, you can use a special vibrating plate or an ordinary log with a nailed board.

Wooden floor installation

Once the base in the form of supporting posts or beams is ready, you can begin installing the wooden floor itself. We lay several layers of waterproofing on top of the posts; roofing felt is perfect for this. On top of the waterproofing layer we install logs or beams, which we firmly fix in place. You can lay logs directly on the support posts, but to increase the strength of the floor, you should first lay the beams and then the logs on top of them. If the length of the beam or joist is less than the length of the room, then place their joints on support posts, connect them together into a lock and secure them with self-tapping screws. To fix the beams and joists on the support posts, we use metal corners, which we firmly screw to the posts with dowels, and to the wood using self-tapping screws.

Important! We treat joists and beams with antiseptics and fire retardants. If you missed something somewhere, or if you couldn’t maintain the horizon for the columns, then it’s okay. This can be corrected by placing wedges under the beam or joist or wooden spacers at the place of its subsidence. The wedges and spacers themselves are firmly fixed.

Single wooden floor

The installation of a wooden floor in a private house can be single or double, but the design of the floor itself will remain unchanged. Single wooden floors are usually made for summer wooden houses. Houses with such floors are unsuitable for year-round living. To keep the floors warm throughout the year, double insulated floors are created.

To install a single wooden floor, you need to lay joists on the support posts and secure them. For lag it is enough to use wooden blocks 50x50 mm or 60x60 mm. A tongue-and-groove board 40-50 mm thick is laid on top of the joists and secured to the joists using self-tapping screws or nails. As flooring you can use linoleum or simply paint the boards. Sometimes, to give the entire floor structure strength, beams are first laid on the supporting pillars and then logs are placed on them. For support beams in this case use wooden beam thickness 100x100 mm or 120x120 mm.

Double floor subfloor

Laying a floor in a wooden house that will be habitable throughout the year involves creating a double floor with insulation. Such a floor requires a lot of effort and quantity of materials, but its level of reliability and strength will be an order of magnitude higher compared to a single-layer one. To make such a floor, you will need to complete the following stages of work:

Important! The boards must be laid at a distance of 15-20 mm from the wall to ensure ventilation and avoid swelling of the floor during seasonal swelling of the wood.

You can waterproof a wooden floor with 200 micron polyethylene film

• To waterproof the finished floor and floor covering, we lay a 200 micron thick polyethylene film and additional thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene on top of the subfloor. We lay the film overlapping, and glue its edges with tape together. We make an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;
• Now that everything is ready, you can begin laying the finished floor and flooring.

To create a finished floor, you can use sheets of plywood or solid boards. Sheets of plywood are laid on top of the heat-insulating layer and secured with self-tapping screws around the perimeter and diagonally. After which you can lay the wooden flooring.

Grooved solid board

A tongue and groove board made of solid wood is not only beautiful, but also convenient to install and use.

In the case of a solid board, everything is somewhat more complicated, although a significant advantage is that such a floor can be covered with varnish or paint without additional floor covering. There are two types of solid boards: tongue-and-groove and regular. The difference lies in the installation method. A tongue and groove board is simpler and more practical to install. To install it you need to do the following:

• before laying the board, it must be left indoors for three days and “get used” to the microclimate of the room;
• measure 10-15 mm from the walls to create a ventilation gap and in case of seasonal swelling of the boards;
• The finished floor boards are laid across the subfloor boards. We lay the first row of boards strictly along the line with the tenon to the wall and fix them with self-tapping screws. We screw in the screws so that near the wall they overlap with the baseboard. On the other side, we screw the screws into the groove at an angle of 45°;
• We place a wooden spacer in the gap between the wall and the board;

Important! If the length of the floorboards is smaller than the room, we lay them “staggered”. This will provide additional strength to the floor. The length of the screws should be several times greater than the thickness of the board. It is necessary to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw, this is necessary so that the board does not split or crack.

• We lay the second and further rows of boards with a tenon in the groove of the previous row. Compact using rubber mallet and secure it with screws on the other side into the groove;

Important! In order for a wooden floor to last a long time, the boards must be laid in growth rings opposite each other.

Solid parquet board

We lay parquet boards “unstuck”

Another option for a finished floor is solid parquet flooring. In essence, this is the same tongue-and-groove solid board, only shorter. Its installation has its own characteristics:

• massive parquet board can be secured with self-tapping screws only from the tenon side;
• performed only “staggered”;
• if a plywood base is used, then it makes sense to first glue the parquet board and then additionally secure it with self-tapping screws;
• massive parquet boards can be laid diagonally, thereby visually enlarging the room.

You can open the wooden floor with varnish or paint at the end of all installation work

Regardless of which element of the wooden floor structure we lay, it must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, this will extend the life of the entire structure. The installation of the wooden floor will be completed with the application of the final floor covering. This can be varnish or paint, the main thing is that the floor in a wooden house looks natural and fits into the general concept. Laying a wooden floor is quite a responsible and complex task, requiring increased attention and care when performing the work. You can do all the work yourself, but still, it’s worth finding a partner.

A wooden house requires especially careful thermal protection, since if the temperature and humidity conditions are violated, the wood begins to rot and lose its strength characteristics. Effective insulation will help prevent this. Before you begin work on protection from the cold, you need to figure out how to properly insulate the floor in an individual wooden house.

Why insulate a wooden floor?

Wood compared to concrete is enough warm material, but when building a frame private house or a house made of timber with your own hands, it is not always possible to achieve a rational balance of the thickness of the structure in terms of strength and thermal conductivity. To reduce the consumption of materials on walls and foundations, thermal insulation is necessary. It is possible to carry out insulation work both in an old building that has been commissioned for a long time, and in new construction.

Insulating the floor in a wooden house can prevent the following problems:

• the appearance of excessive dampness in the room;
• reducing the temperature in the task;
• condensation, which causes mold to appear;
• the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms dangerous to humans;
• increased heating costs;
• destruction wooden structures from the inside.

By doing the work yourself you can significantly reduce costs. Now there are many materials, the use of which does not require special skills and high qualifications.

Diagram of all heat losses of a wooden house.

Which floors require insulation?

The following structures need protection:

1. cold basement floor pie;
2. attic floor;
3. interfloor slab design.

When interfloor option the material is used as sound insulation. In this case, you need to provide a layer 3-5 cm thick.

Insulating the floor of the first floor in a wooden house allows you to provide comfortable living conditions. Most heat loss occurs through the ceiling of the upper floor, so it is necessary that the insulation is selected and installed correctly.

Materials for work

To properly insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to choose high-quality insulation that has all the necessary properties. Insulation can be carried out both from the inside of the room and from the cold air side.

For insulation with your own hands attic floor from the inside or below the basement, it is better to use lightweight materials that can be easily attached to the floor pie from below. In this case, it would be correct to use:

• mineral wool in rolls;

These materials will ensure maximum convenience when insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

When insulating frame house, in houses made of timber or logs, work can be carried out from the inside of the room for the floor of the first floor and from the outside for the last. In this case, it is better to insulate the floor along joists or beams, since this will prevent the load from being transferred to the fragile material. For this type of work you can use the following materials:

More information about insulation with sawdust and expanded clay can be found in the articles and. These materials have such advantages as natural origin and low cost, so if you need to reduce construction costs or insulation in an old building and ensure complete environmental friendliness, it is better to use them. However, they are less technologically advanced compared to other materials.

Recently, the method is also gaining popularity. This method is good for its low labor intensity and high efficiency.

Floor insulation technology

It is important to lay the insulation correctly, observing the correct order of all layers. The floor pie when insulating the attic floor, the floor of the second floor or the first has not always noticeable, but significant differences.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from below

In this case, when carrying out work with your own hands, the materials should be correctly laid in the following order:

1. waterproofing;
2. insulation;
3. vapor barrier;
4. ceiling design.

When building a house from timber or frame, the material is secured along the beams. After which the filing is performed. As a protection against moisture and steam, you can use ordinary polyethylene film. As a second option for waterproofing, moisture-proof membranes are used. If all layers are laid correctly, the structure will be reliably and competently protected from the cold from the point of view of heating engineering.

This method is very labor-intensive and is used only if it is not possible to insulate from the inside.

Also, the method is perfect for insulating from below.

Insulation of the ground floor floor from the inside

Carrying out work under the ceiling is quite inconvenient, therefore, when constructing a frame house or a building made of timber, insulation of the first floor ceiling is often carried out using beams from above. In this case, in addition to the previously mentioned materials, you can use bulk materials such as sawdust and expanded clay. When carrying out insulation with your own hands, correctly lay all layers in the following sequence:

1. floor design;
2. waterproofing;
3. insulation;
4. vapor barrier;
5. clean floor.

The vapor barrier must be placed from the inside of the room, so it will work correctly, preventing damage to the floor along the timber beams.

Insulation of interfloor ceilings

In the first case, the insulation extinguishes airborne noise: human speech, music, etc. In the second case, the structure is also perfectly insulated from impact noise - steps, jumps, etc.

Proper sound insulation of interfloor ceilings is the key comfortable stay all family members.

Insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor from the inside

Installing insulation from the inside does not provide maximum protection for structures, but it can be used as a second option for laying insulation. In this case, the insulation is mounted on the beams from below the floor. It would be correct to arrange the layers in this order:

1. vapor barrier;
2. insulation;
3. waterproofing;
4. beam-based floor structure.

Insulating the attic floor

When constructing and repairing a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, it is better to insulate the attic from above. This method has the following advantages:

• ease of installation;
• the possibility of using inexpensive bulk materials;
• competent thermal protection;
• insulation of not only the room, but also the ceiling along the beams of a house made of timber or frame;
• prevention of condensation in the thickness of the ceiling.

To ensure proper protection, the layers are laid in the following order from bottom to top:

1. floor design;
2. vapor barrier;
3. thermal insulation material;
4. waterproofing.

Calculation of insulation thickness

To perform a full-fledged thermal engineering calculation of the structures of a frame house or a building made of timber, it is not necessary to have a construction education. When performing calculations, it is important to know the thickness of all layers of the cake and their thermal conductivity. It's quite easy to find out.

The calculation will allow you to perform proper insulation of a house made of timber and prevent excess consumption of materials. All calculations, taking into account the search for source data, are unlikely to take more than half an hour. Typically, layers such as waterproofing and vapor barrier are not taken into account.

A competent choice of insulation method, type of material and its thickness can eliminate many problems during operation. When constructing multi-storey residential buildings, the question of insulation does not arise: it is required. The correct selection of thickness and the presence of measures for thermal protection of the floor, attic floor and walls are checked by an expert, which considers these calculations on a par with calculations of strength.

In private housing construction, no one checks the presence of proper insulation, but this does not make it any less important.