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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These construction rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the basic requirements of a joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To drain wastewater into the general sewer system, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain makes it necessary to use sewage pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank, allowing the sewerage system to be operated for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the laying can only be changed using connecting parts;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows laying with some bending (up to approximately 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at subzero temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and pipe destruction.

• The slope of the gasket must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, solid fractions of wastewater will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and angles. The exception is crosses, the bends of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if clogged.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the direction opposite to the blockage.
An oblique tee will guide the cleaning tool in the direction of the drain movement.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the bathtub piping is not hermetically sealed, overflowing of the sewer can lead to flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout their service life. Preferred polymer pipes(PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises it is allowed to embed it in the floor, walls, ducts and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, I have encountered blockages that could only be cleared by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large fragment of thick glass stuck between the walls of a cast iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

IN wooden floor Polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which in certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to embed pipes into ceilings living rooms and kitchens;
• Scheme internal sewerage in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes), which are connected to the highest points of the system. The drain pipe is installed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will indeed limit draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from getting into it during a rainstorm.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste removal, the latter is quite important.

• On a roof in use, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The design of the in-house sewage system must provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at turns;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Pitch, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is lower than the hatch of the nearest yard sewerage well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding section of the sewerage system is equipped with a sewer seal or an automatic sewage pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

The connections of elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with an inspection or hatch (lid) for cleaning;
• Recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in general case(in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing and dishwashers The diameter of the connected sewerage is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in pipes is unlikely to give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help you avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sections of sewerage in the subfloor, basement or behind false walls. It is better to place risers in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a box made of plasterboard or wall panels. It is advisable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used for this purpose); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foam roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with porous rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to properly assemble a sewer system from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm/m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm/m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The mounting points of a horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the pitch between the clamps, the loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are secured with clamps under the necks of the sockets. This fastening will prevent them from moving under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, onto which large-sized debris (papers, rags, etc.) that get into it can get caught.

The easiest way to cut a pipe is with a grinder. For cutting you can use any abrasive wheel. When working indoors, do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a less than average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inner surface of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will begin to collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will significantly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other lubricant. water based. Do not use machine oil or other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

When laying hidden (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It really is necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with the height of the system being only 4 meters, significant draft would not arise in it. In addition, all connections between plumbing fixtures and sockets were carefully sealed.

No such luck: after some time, a characteristic sewage smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing the toilet, a stream of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum that appeared in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bathtub siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for septic tank aromas to enter the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a drain pipe at the top point of the sewer system.

Heating

In regions with warm climates, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea with its average temperature January at +3C you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the ground surface. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people’s buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, and in the warm climatic zone there are frosts. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is attached heats up.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces non-target heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main installation requirement is to leave the end sleeve and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end outside the drain container.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube within a year or two of use, but vinyl cable insulation perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely complicated. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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In order for living in a country house to be as comfortable as possible, main communications in the form of sewerage and water supply must be installed.

Of course, sewerage in a private house with your own hands is possible without any problems.

If you do not live in a house outside the city on a permanent basis, then there is no need to purchase expensive equipment. You can easily get by with a septic tank.

Importance of sewerage

Very often in practice, the function of collecting waste is assigned to a cesspool. In the case when the house does not have a plumbing system, the use of this option is quite logical, however, in the case of a large volume of drained water and the installation of various plumbing fixtures, this will certainly not be enough.

In principle, absolutely anyone can install sewerage into a house, and it is only important to follow at all stages the project, which was developed in advance and included various schemes for internal and external piping.

DIY sewerage diagram inside a country house

First of all, these are all the places where plumbing fixtures are connected, such as a sink, toilet, as well as a bathtub or shower.

The external network is all the pipes that drain wastewater from the house and the storage or treatment plant. Of course, installing proper sewerage is the right thing to do huge amount a wide variety of nuances.

After the project has been prepared, you can proceed to calculating the size of the pipes, the number required material which may be needed for work, as well as the choice of sewer collector.

As soon as you have a diagram of how each point from the system will be located, you can purchase the material that will be needed in the future and proceed to installation.

First of all, if you do not know how to make a sewer, then the main riser must be installed. To ensure that all gases are removed, a small part from above is slightly noticeable above the existing level near the roof, or the second option is to be removed to the top at the end of the work.

Types of pipes

From PVC material. The main advantage of this type of pipe is that the material is absolutely not susceptible to overgrowing or unwanted corrosion.

Their internal surface is quite smooth, which allows the unhindered passage of waste. Installation is most often performed using the socket method. The price of such pipes allows everyone to buy them.

Cast iron pipes are a durable and always reliable option, however, due to their fairly large weight, their installation is quite difficult. Also, the price for such pipes is much higher than for ordinary plastic ones, to which everyone is almost accustomed.

You can look at a photo of a sewer system in a dacha, and you will see that, in principle, there is practically no external difference between these two options. Then why overpay?

Ceramic pipes stand out from the rest with their amazing characteristics, but not everyone can afford their cost, so they are chosen less and less every year.

After the installation of the main riser is completed, the next stage is the laying of horizontal pipelines. During installation, it is very important to avoid various 90-degree turns, as this will only interfere with the movement of drains.

If you are interested in sewerage from concrete rings, then keep in mind that this is not only a fairly expensive option, but also extremely difficult to install.

It will be enough that all plumbing fixtures include siphons with an additional water seal. This will act as an obstacle to the penetration of various unwanted odors into the room.

Note!

An important condition when connecting the pipe from the toilet is that the diameter of the pipe should not be less than 10 cm.

A septic tank made of reinforced concrete has quite a lot of rings various advantages. For example, this option is one of the most affordable, but at the same time completely unpretentious during use.

However, speaking of the disadvantages, one cannot fail to note the mandatory cleaning of the chamber from solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

DIY sewer photo

Note!

It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But fortunately now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always install one of the options yourself and connect pipes from your home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer system in a private house so that it long years served correctly and efficiently. There are few rules for the design and installation of such autonomous drainage systems, but they all must be followed.

Types of sewer systems in private homes

The external street part of the sewer system of a country house can be arranged in the form of:

• sealed storage tank;
• septic tank (with one or several chambers);
• septic tank with infiltrator;
• biological stations with aerobic treatment.

Plus there's more cesspools, but they should only be used in dachas with small volumes of wastewater. To install a sewer system in a cottage with permanent residence of two or three people, you should choose only a full-fledged septic tank. Moreover, in some cases, the ideal choice would be a simple storage tank, and in others, a cleaning station with aerobic microorganisms.

Before buying this or that model, you need to weigh everything carefully. What is important here is the number of people living in the house, the amount of wastewater in cubic meters per day, and the characteristics of the soil in the local area.

Storage tank, sealed container

It is customary to choose a storage tank when high level groundwater(UGV). This sealed container is not afraid of rains and floods; sewage will come out of it only in extreme situations. It is best to make such a storage tank from concrete rings or an iron tank. It comes out inexpensively and quickly. The only drawback of this sewerage option is the constant expense of calling a sewer truck every two to three weeks to pump out wastewater.

Installation of a sewer storage tank

Single chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is a slightly improved classic cesspool in the form of a well with a drainage bottom. The purification of wastewater in it occurs due to the passage of water from the internal sewerage system of a private house through several layers of crushed stone and sand. There is no need to call a vacuum cleaner here, but you will have to clean and rinse the crushed stone-sand drainage twice a year. This option is inexpensive to do, but it can only cope with a small volume of wastewater (suitable only for families of a couple of people).

What is the difference between a single-chamber and a two-chamber septic tank?

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow settling wells

A septic tank with two or three chambers is a structure made up of several overflow wells. The first (and the second for sediment, if any) is made airtight, and the latter, on the contrary, comes with drainage at the bottom. Such a sewer system is capable of purifying fairly large volumes of wastewater from a private home and does not require special attention. However, if the groundwater is located high, then such a septic structure will have to be abandoned.

Device two-chamber septic tank

Septic tank with filtration field

If the water level is high and the cottage is large, then to clean the sewer drains you can install a septic tank with a filtration field or infiltrator. In this case, water drainage into the soil also occurs through a sand and gravel filter. However, here it is not located at the bottom of a narrow vertical well, but on a “field” located further away from the foundation of the house in the form of drainage pipes or a large infiltration structure.

Filtration field design options

Septic tank with biofilter

An anaerobic septic tank with a biofilter will cost more than the options listed above. However, it is more efficient and productive. Plus, after purification, the water can be used to water the garden or wash the car. Such a station is made at a factory from plastic or fiberglass and is divided into compartments inside. The wastewater gradually flows through several chambers, one of which contains special organic-eating bacteria. The result is 90–95% purified water at the outlet.

Construction of a septic tank with a biofilter

Septic tank with forced air supply

An aerobic septic tank (active biotreatment station) is the maximum in productivity and efficiency that is available among autonomous systems sewerage for a private house. Wastewater purification here is carried out by aerobe microorganisms that need constant oxygen supply. This is done using an electric pump; such a septic tank is energy dependent. But the rate at which bacteria “eat” organic matter is high, and the degree of purification fluctuates around 98–99%. A serious disadvantage is the high cost of the station.

Design and principle of operation of a septic tank with forced ventilation

How to choose a sewer system for your home

For a country house with temporary residence, a cesspool, a small storage tank or a single-chamber septic tank with soil drainage is quite enough. But for a private house in which a large family constantly lives, a more powerful treatment plant is required. Best choice there will be an aerobic or anaerobic station.

Pad

Regardless of the chosen option, installation of the external part of the local sewer system You can almost always do it yourself. It is enough to dig a hole, and then install a ready-made septic tank inside or build it there from brick or concrete.

Where to begin

It is most correct to calculate and think about how to make a sewer system in your cottage not even during the construction of a home, but even at the stage of its design. It is necessary to provide technological openings for pipes in the floors, walls and foundation of the building in advance. It is much more difficult to do this in an already built house. Here, like replacing electrical wiring or installing a ventilation system, it is better to calculate and recalculate everything in advance.

A simple diagram of a septic tank in a private house

How to calculate the volume of a septic tank

The internal volume of a septic tank is calculated based on the number of plumbing fixtures and the amount of their actual waste. But to simplify the sewage system in a private house, it is customary to plan based on 150–200 l/day of wastewater for each person permanently residing in it.

Laying depth

If a septic tank for sewerage installation is chosen with soil drainage, then it must be taken as far away from the cottage as possible. Otherwise, moisture escaping into the soil will negatively affect its foundation. At a minimum, this distance should be 5 m, but in this case it is better to increase it to 8–10 m.

But if a sealed container or biological station is chosen, then the rules for installing sewerage allow them to be located closer than five meters from the building. At the same time, the digging depth of the treatment plant and sewer pipes from the building should be such that they do not freeze in winter.

System design

Designing internal sewerage in the cottage itself is also quite simple. Difficulties can arise only if the house is built on several floors and with a lot of plumbing. For ordinary low-rise housing of 100–150 square meters, everything can be designed independently. It's no more difficult than choosing an emergency gas generator. You just need to comply with the relevant building codes.

Tilt angle rules

All horizontal sections of sewerage in a private house should be made at a slope of three (for pipes D = 50 mm) and two degrees (for D = 110 mm) in the direction of movement of the drains. It is no longer possible to tilt the pipelines, as water will flow through them too quickly, leaving feces and solid waste. And with a lower slope, sewage, on the contrary, will stagnate in the outlets, not reaching the central riser.

Internal piping

The internal sewage system consists of:

• horizontal outlet (pipes to the septic tank);
• vertical riser with a ventilation hole at the top;
• horizontal bends to each plumbing fixture.

To lay the outlet, riser and branch from it to the toilet, you should choose pipes with a diameter of 100–120 mm; for other sections, 40–50 mm will be sufficient. The easiest way to make sewer pipelines is from plastic products, connected into a socket with rubber cuff for tightness.

Installation of sewer pipes in the house

Riser installation

Connecting taps to vertical pipe is done through tees, and its rotation towards the outlet is done with a knee with a smooth bend. In general, the installation of sewerage in a private house begins with the installation of a riser, assembled from the bottom up and strictly vertically. It is attached to the wall with clamps with a distance between fasteners of a maximum of 2 meters. To pass it through the interfloor ceilings, metal sleeves a couple of centimeters wider than the pipeline itself are used.

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Have own house- This is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all the amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from a well, are becoming a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How to create a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands?”

Creating a sewer system for a private home is not as difficult as it seems

Before starting construction, you need to decide on the type of sewerage system in a private house. With your own hands you can create several varieties that will have their own pros and cons.

The most popular varieties are:

• Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and wastewater. Such a structure is inexpensive and does not take much time to construct. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen walls it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After this, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for subsequent removal of liquid. This simplest scheme sewer systems in private houses, created by the owner himself. However, such an arrangement is more relevant for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;

• No less known method is digging in a closed container. This structure operates on the same principle as drain hole. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are connected to the tank hatch. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting the surrounding area. Significant disadvantage This method can be considered the need for constant cleaning.

• A septic tank is difficult to construct, but at the same time the most reliable sewer system in a private house, the layout, depth of filling and components of which can guarantee effective operation for many years. During construction you need to choose appropriate place future well. The distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Next, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks; the recommended masonry thickness is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Place its level above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.

Helpful information! You should decide which option to choose based on the funds you expect to spend during construction. The examples given differ in both the high cost of the elements and the time required.

In addition, installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands depends on the layout of the home and the number of people regularly living in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration makes it possible to allocate a single collector for their maintenance, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or waste pit.

If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout involves a significant distance between the kitchen and other rooms with drainage, it will be necessary. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, and also provide the possibility of pumping out waste water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.

Related article:

In the article we will look at options for drainage installation, how to make a reliable system with your own hands, and the average cost of specialist work.

Components that make up a sewer system for private houses with your own hands

The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place on the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with running water, at the outlet they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.

Next, the main functions are taken over by external communications. A pipeline installed outdoors is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example. The main task of this unit is to deliver wastewater to the receiving device.

The final stage in the chain becomes storage capacity, whose main function is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewer installations in private houses: video tips and more

At the first stage, you should carefully examine the soil layer for special characteristics. When looking for a site for installing a drain well, you need to pay attention to:

• Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
• Free access for vehicles to clean the storage tank;
• Distance from utility buildings and fences.

In most cases, country houses are used seasonally and people do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can be done with a small receiving tank.

Helpful information! If you adhere to sanitary building standards, the waste pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced builders recommend increasing this distance as much as possible to insulate the house from unpleasant odors.

It is best to dig a hole in a low-lying area of ​​the surface, thereby providing a natural slope for drainage. Try to avoid such an arrangement to prevent accidents.

This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:

Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage

The next step in construction is the selection of components. The durability and quality of operation of the entire system will depend on the quality of the fittings and other parts you choose.

When going to a specialized store, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must allow water to pass freely and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.

The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of up to two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely sealed and meet international technical parameters.

When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. The following types exist:

• Cast iron;

• Steel;

• Copper;

• Reinforced concrete;

• Asbestos-cement;

• Ceramic;

• Plastic.

Each material has specific features, suitable for certain conditions.

In addition to the main “arteries”, fittings are important. These parts are used to connect laid pipes into a drainage system.

For execution various functions There are such varieties as:

• Couplings - used to connect pipe sections;

• Reductions – for connecting ends of different diameters;

• Inspections - to remove blockages and dirt;

• Tees - for creating branches;

From this article you can learn how to create a sewer system in a private house with your own hands: a diagram on the basis of which the construction of a waste system is carried out, its phased production with useful tips and recommendations from specialists, information on pipeline laying and related procedures. Review popular types sewers, their features, specificity for suburban areas and prices for them.

Unlike city apartments, not every private or Vacation home has all communication systems. Therefore, the owners of such housing are forced to install them themselves in order to ensure basic comfort conditions. If the organization of this system, along with water supply, was initially included in the building design, then there should be no problems with their construction. It is much more difficult if you have to turn on the sewerage system diagram in a private house, which is already ready.

The simplest option for implementing such an idea would be a project in which the sink and shower are installed inside the building, and the toilet is located outside it on the street. In this case, you can do without complex work for pipeline laying, as well as installation treatment facilities. This scheme involves removing the sewer pipe from the house and supplying it to the sewer pit.

The second option is more difficult, since the toilet, shower and sink in this case are located inside the building. If you make incorrect calculations or violate the system construction technology, there is a risk of polluting the site and the water located nearby with waste. In such situations, you cannot do without a septic tank.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend placing the toilet, bathroom and kitchen areas nearby. Due to this, it is possible to organize a single collector, thanks to which the waste liquid will be directed to a waste pit or septic tank.

How to choose a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house

To choose the right sewerage system and scheme for its creation, you need to consider the following factors:

• whether the house is used for permanent or temporary residence;
• groundwater level;
• the number of people living in the house on a permanent basis;
• daily water consumption taking into account the needs of residents and household appliances such as a dishwasher or washing machine;
• climatic conditions;
• area of ​​the summer cottage to determine accessible areas for installation of a cleaning system;
• type of soil and features of its structure;
• regulatory requirements of SNIP.

Conventionally, existing sewage systems can be divided into two categories: storage and purification. A more detailed classification will allow you to choose the type of system that suits the operating conditions, since even schemes of the same type can have significant differences.

A cesspool is most often used for areas with a house used for temporary residence, for example, only a week a month. This does not consume a large amount of water. An important condition is that the groundwater level lies no higher than 1 m from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, water pollution from wastewater is inevitable. This type of sewer system is rarely used in modern construction.

Storage tanks are used for the construction of sewerage in a private house with a high groundwater level. Since the tank is sealed, there is no risk of waste contaminating the soil. However, this system has disadvantages. Firstly, there are additional costs associated with the need to call a sewer truck to periodically pump out wastewater. Secondly, the plan will have to provide a place for this equipment to enter the site and its placement.

Types of sewers in a private house with your own hands: photos and features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks are the simplest soil purification systems. The principle of their operation is in many ways similar to cesspools. The scheme is suitable if the groundwater does not lie high. If the house is used for permanent residence and there is an active use of water, it is not recommended to use a single-chamber septic tank scheme for sewer construction.

Two-chamber septic tanks also depend on the location of the groundwater level. It is desirable that they lie at least 1 m below the bottom of the system.

Helpful advice! In order for the sewage system in the form of a two-chamber septic tank to function normally, it is recommended that the sand and crushed stone that was used during construction be changed every 5 years.

Septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewage systems in a private house where people live on a permanent basis. To process waste, special microorganisms are used, which are poured into the water. There are no restrictions on such sewerage; you just need to connect to the electrical network.

A septic tank with a filtration field carries out two methods of cleaning at once - soil and biological. The tank is divided into two sections. Installation of such a sewer system is possible only if the groundwater lies at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. Construction will require a significant amount of free space. Moreover, the distance to neighboring buildings, as well as the nearest water sources, should not be less than 30 m.

Aeration tanks or systems with forced air supply are very expensive, but due to their advantages they are worth the money spent. Such structures are not limited in terms of installation, however, they require a power source and the constant presence of people. The minimum price of sewerage for a private house with installation in this case is approximately $4,000.

How to properly make a sewer system in a private house yourself

The construction of any communications must be carried out according to a previously developed and approved project. Such a project usually has a diagram for creating internal and external sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands.

Internal system includes:

• risers;
• highways;
• areas for connecting plumbing fixtures.

Plumbing fixtures include items such as a shower stall that does not have a tray, a bathtub, a sink and a toilet. The internal system ends with an outlet pipe. This element is located at the level of the foundation part of the building.

When settling in external sewerage at the dacha with your own hands, a diagram of this section of the system should be present external pipeline, which provides drainage of wastewater from the building, as well as storage or purification equipment. When the project is ready and approved, the optimal diameter and size of the pipes, as well as the amount of material required for the work, can be determined. At the same stage, a sewer collector is selected.

Helpful advice! During the construction process, it is better to rely on the requirements regulatory documents. SNIPs will help you decide how to properly install a sewer system in a private house, as well as eliminate errors in the design process.

Choosing a place to install a septic tank for the sewage system of a country house with your own hands

When installing a sewer system, choosing a location for installing a septic tank is extremely important. The following factors influence its placement:

• depth of groundwater;
• relief features of the site (since the movement of water within the system is carried out by gravity, the slope of the territory should be taken into account);
• soil freezing level in winter time;
• placement of sources drinking water;
• soil structure.

Sandy soils have a loose structure. Due to this, liquid can easily pass through the soil, so there is a possibility of contamination of groundwater with waste.

When installing a septic structure, it is important to adhere to certain requirements:

1. The distance from a residential building is at least 5 m.
2. Distance from the source of drinking water (well) – 30 m.
3. The distance from green spaces is at least 3 m.

In addition, it will be necessary to equip an area for the entry of sewage disposal equipment.

Installation of internal sewerage for a private home: how to organize the work correctly

On the diagram of the internal sewerage system in a private house, you need to mark all the points of the system with your own hands. First, the central riser is installed. Optimal diameter pipe is 110 mm. To ensure that gases leave the room without hindrance, the riser should be installed so that it top part was brought out into the attic or protruded above the level of the roof of the building. The central riser must be located at a distance of at least 4 m from the windows of the building.

Next, a horizontal pipeline is laid. Installing inspection hatches will allow you to monitor the condition of the system and promptly clean it. These elements must be placed at the lowest point of the sewer and above the toilet.

For each plumbing fixture, it is necessary to provide a siphon with a water seal. This will prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. When laying a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to avoid turning at an angle of 90°. These elements make it difficult to move wastewater.

The pipe coming from the toilet is connected directly to the system. To do this, it is better to use a pipe with a minimum diameter of 100 mm. For the bathtub and sink, you can take a smaller pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The line should be placed at an angle that will ensure the movement of liquid. You also need to make a blank in the foundation for a hole to bring the system out. A check valve must be installed on this pipe to prevent wastewater from flowing back into the system.

Helpful advice! If it is not possible to eliminate 90° turns, the rotating area of ​​the pipeline can be made from two 45° corner pieces.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation technique in a private house: preparation for installation of a septic tank

The design is a two-chamber collector, the sections of which are connected to each other using an overflow pipe. To begin with, a pit is dug 3 m deep of the required volume, taking into account the number of permanent residents in the house. It can be formed manually or using special equipment (excavator). At the bottom it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion up to 15 cm thick.

Then a formwork structure is formed on the basis of chipboard or boards. It must be strengthened with a reinforcing belt, which is made of metal rods. Bandaging is carried out using steel wire. After this, you need to make two holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. This will create the entry zones for the system main and the overflow pipe connecting the sections.

The formwork structure is concreted. To ensure that the solution is distributed evenly, you need to use a vibrating tool. The septic tank must be monolithic, so it is filled once.

Related article:

Review of available methods for treating wastewater. The operating principle of various sewerage devices.

Instructions for installing external sewerage: installation of a two-chamber septic tank

The bottom of the first compartment must be formed by pouring concrete. The result should be a sealed section that will be used as a sump. Here the separation of solid large fractions will occur, which will settle at the bottom. Clarified, partially purified water will accumulate on top. Due to the connecting pipe, it will flow into the adjacent compartment.

Helpful advice! The use of aerobic bacteria will enhance the decomposition of solid particles.

There is no need to organize the bottom in the second compartment. The section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. Laying one on top of the other will also work. The recommended diameter size is 1-1.5 m. A thick cushion of sediment is formed at the bottom of the compartment, which acts as a filter for wastewater. Pebbles, crushed stone, and gravel are suitable for these purposes.

An overflow pipe is installed between the two compartments. Tilt angle 30 mm each linear meter. This pipe is located at the level of the upper third. Most often the owners summer cottages when installing a sewer system in a private house, they use a two-section design, although it is possible to equip a septic tank even with 4 compartments, which will provide best level cleaning.

You can also make the ceiling for the septic tank yourself. For this, formwork and concrete are used. As an alternative, reinforced concrete slabs can be used. It is mandatory to install an inspection hatch that allows monitoring the exhaust and filling of sections. Then the pit must be filled with soil or sand. The septic tank should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Organization of sewerage wiring for a private house: how to lay the pipeline correctly

From the area where it comes out of the foundation sewer pipe and a line needs to be laid to the septic tank. The pipeline must be located at a slope, which will ensure the drainage of waste water. The larger the diameter of the pipes used, the smaller the angle of inclination required for full operation of the pipeline. The average is 2°.

In the diagram, the depth of laying sewerage in a private house with your own hands should be below the level of soil freezing in winter. The average value is 1 m. In warm regions, there is no need to deepen the pipes; 0.7 m will be enough. If the house is located in a cold region, the depth should be increased to 1.5 m. At the bottom of the trench, before laying the pipes, you need to form a dense sandy layer pillow, compacting it well. This procedure will allow you to securely fix the pipes and prevent the destruction of the main during seasonal mixing of soil.

The most optimal scheme for a summer cottage would be to lay a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. If necessary, you can perform a rotation. A manhole can be installed at this location. Pipes made of cast iron or plastic intended for external sewage are suitable for work. Recommended diameter is 110 mm. All joints must be sealed. The trench with the laid pipeline is first filled with sand and then soil.

Helpful advice! If the trenches for pipeline installation are shallow, the pipeline must be additionally insulated using thermal insulation materials.

Features of the construction of country sewerage without pumping

Systems that do not require pumping are usually represented by double- or three-chamber septic tanks, working simultaneously. If the system has two tanks, at least ¾ of the structure is allocated to the sump, for three-chamber tanks - half. In the first section, heavy fractions settle. As it fills, the liquid is poured into the second compartment, where light particles are separated. In the third section, the water is fully purified from waste and supplied to drainage well or filter fields. It is important that the two containers are sealed.

This type of system also requires pumping, but not as often as with a conventional septic tank. This is done using drainage or fecal pump for sewerage, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and capacity and varies between 2,700-25,000 rubles. This equipment is used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump.

The frequency of the procedure is affected by the composition of the wastewater and the size of the tank. The structure must be cleaned when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Over six months, about 60-90 liters of sediment accumulates in the tank. Based on this data and the capacity of the container, you can approximately determine how much time between cleanings.

To find out the required volume of a septic tank without pumping, you should multiply the daily rate of water consumption per person (200 l) by the number of residents and add another 20% to the resulting result. If the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to make a concrete screed at the bottom of the pit or lay a concrete slab for reinforcement.

A hole in the ground is dug taking into account the size of the septic tank. Add to this a minimum of 20 cm on each side, or better yet, even more. The pipes are laid on a sand bed in a similar way with a slope to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: installation price

The price for installing a turnkey septic tank is determined taking into account:

• features of excavation work, for example, the formation of a pit or supply trench;
• the need to build a system for soil purification;
• the cost of laying sewerage per meter in the ground (depending on the type of pipes and the length of the line, the average price is 35-65 rubles per 1 m);
• installation of the necessary equipment;
• the need for the construction of an additional system for the disposal of treated wastewater, etc.

Most often, if turnkey installation of septic equipment is carried out, 2-3 people are involved in the work. Since installation of the structure is carried out manually, there is no need to use specialized heavy equipment. As a result, the landscape remains untouched, and the owner of the site has a chance to save significantly. Changes to the site cannot be avoided if underground sewerage is being laid. The price per square meter of work performed is included in the total cost of turnkey work.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the system elements do not move during installation and do not float up, it is recommended to carry out the procedure of concreting the body.

If there are soils at the dacha that do not have filtering properties, like sand, installation work will increase significantly in price. Such soils include loam and clay. To provide normal conditions For the full functioning of the system on the territory, it will be necessary to form a bulk-type filtration field.

The price of installing a sewerage system in a private house on a turnkey basis:

Septic tank model	price, rub.
Tank	from 18700
Cedar	from 79900
Uni-Sap	from 56000
TopBio	from 111700

Installing a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the bathhouse sewerage system includes internal and external systems. Even if the building has a dry steam room, liquid drainage from the shower will be required. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage diagram is included in the bathhouse design at the development stage and is laid out at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are installed.

If installation is planned wooden floors made of boards, the elements can be laid closely or with small gaps. If the covering is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will subsequently be installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer discharge pipe.

Important! If the sauna sewage system involves collecting liquid from several rooms, including from the toilet, it is imperative to install a riser with ventilation.

If the wooden flooring will be made with cracks, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. A concrete base is made under the floor with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, you can lay metal pallets under the insulated floor wooden flooring. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water inlet ladder is installed at the lowest point of the slope, which drains the wastewater into the pipe.

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands

To install sewer pipes, you need to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm by 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A cushion should be made at the bottom of these trenches. To do this, pour a layer of sand 15 cm thick and compact it thoroughly. At the same time, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the sewer line is installed. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are placed in trenches. Arranged if necessary sewer riser. It needs to be fixed to the wall using clamps. Ventilation must be provided. When the system is ready, the floor covering is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the drains and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system in the designated locations. In the area where the water inlet connects to the outlet pipe, it is advisable to install a siphon. It will prevent odors from the sewer from penetrating back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use wood and steel products, because... they quickly collapse under the influence of moisture. The minimum permissible diameter of the gutter is 5 cm. If the project provides for a toilet or other sanitary equipment, it is installed and connected. This concludes the work on organizing internal sewerage. The external system is performed in the manner described earlier and can be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: ventilation diagram in a bathhouse

Air exchange in the bath can be organized different ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. Having studied the specifics of each method, you can choose the most the best option for a bath.

The first method involves creating a hole intended for feeding fresh air. It should be located behind the stove at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. Exhaust air will be discharged through an opening with opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To enhance the movement air flow at the outlet you need to install exhaust fan. All openings are covered with gratings.

Helpful advice! The lower the ventilation hood is placed, the more intense the air exchange process will occur. It is important not to overdo it with the steam room in this regard, otherwise significant heat loss will occur.

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite the one where the stove is located. The exhaust duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level; at a similar distance from the ceiling, you need to make an exhaust hole and install a fan in it. The channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for floor coverings, where the boards are laid with gaps to drain liquid. The entrance hole is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, there will be no need to install an outlet channel, since the exhaust air will exit through the gaps between the boards.

Do-it-yourself installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house: video and recommendations

The material used for the manufacture of autonomous sewers is polypropylene, which is characterized by light weight, environmental friendliness, strength and high thermal conductivity. Wastewater treatment is carried out by certain types of bacteria that feed on organic waste. Oxygen access – required condition for the life of these microorganisms. Price autonomous sewerage in a private house is significantly higher than the cost of installing a conventional septic tank.

This is due to the numerous advantages of autonomous systems:

• high level of wastewater treatment;
• unique aeration cleaning system;
• no service costs;
• no need for additional acquisition of microorganisms;
• compact dimensions;
• no need to call a sewer truck;
• possibility of installation at high groundwater levels;
• absence of odors;
• long service life (up to 50 cm).

How much will it cost to build a sewer system in a private house: turnkey price

The capabilities of autonomous sewers Unilos Astra 5 and Topas 5 are considered the most optimal for summer cottages. These designs are reliable, they are able to provide comfortable accommodation and necessary household amenities for residents of a country house. These manufacturers also offer other, no less effective models.

Average price of autonomous sewers Topas:

Name	price, rub.
Topas 4	77310
Topas-S 5	80730
Topas 5	89010
Topas-S 8	98730
Topas-S 9	103050
Topas 8	107750
Topas 15	165510
Topaero 3	212300
Topaero 6	341700
Topaero 7	410300

Note! The features of the autonomous sewage system Astra, Topas, Biotank and other models listed in the tables allow for deep biological treatment of drains. This figure in some cases reaches 98%. As a result of treatment, the wastewater turns into clear water with a small admixture of silt.

Average price of autonomous sewers Unilos:

Name	price, rub.
Astra 3	66300
Astra 4	69700
Astra 5	76670
Astra 8	94350
Astra 10	115950
Scarab 3	190000
Scarab 5	253000
Scarab 8	308800
Scarab 10	573000
Scarab 30	771100

The tables indicate standard system costs. The final price for installing an autonomous sewerage system on a turnkey basis is determined taking into account the prices for laying an external pipeline and other issues affecting excavation and installation work in general.

Average price of autonomous Tank type sewers:

Name	price, rub.
Biotank 3	40000
Biotank 4	48500
Biotank 5	56000
Biotank 6	62800
Biotank 8	70150

Tips for installing an autonomous sewer system in a summer cottage

As with any other system, it is recommended to install the pipeline at an angle from the house towards the cleaning tank. The optimal angle is from 2 to 5° per meter. If you do not adhere to this requirement, full disposal of wastewater by an autonomous sewage system for your dacha will become impossible.

When laying the highway, care should be taken to securely fix its elements. To eliminate the risk of pipe deformation and displacement during soil subsidence, the soil at the bottom of the trenches must be thoroughly compacted. If you fill the bottom with concrete, you will get a more reliable fixed base. When installing pipes, it is advisable to adhere to a straight path.

Be sure to check the joints for leaks. Liquid clay is usually used for joining. It is permissible to use specialized products recommended by the pipe manufacturer. If a highway is installed using elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the maximum permissible length of straight sections of the system is 5 m. When using products with a diameter of 100 mm, this figure is 8 m maximum.

Important! A waste storage tank cannot be placed at a distance of less than 10 m from residential buildings.

Do-it-yourself construction of an autonomous sewer system in a private house

First, the optimal location for installing the wastewater tank is selected. To do this, you can use the data recommended for installing a conventional septic tank, then you can begin excavation work. A pit is dug to install the container. The dimensions of the recess in the ground must correspond to the dimensions of the tank with an allowance of 30 cm on each side.

The technology allows for the installation of a biological filter and a septic tank in one pit. Excavation also involve the formation of trenches for laying the pipeline. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a slope of 2 cm for every 0.1 m of the highway. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled concrete mortar. After the site has completely dried and hardened, installation can be carried out. plastic container. To fix the structure to the base, it is advisable to use cables.

At the next stage, the autonomous sewage system of a country house is assembled and the pipeline is supplied in accordance with a pre-designed scheme. At the same time, the biological filter blocks are filled. For these purposes, an absorbent with a bioactive effect and expanded clay can be used.

Once the entire system is installed, the holes in the soil are filled back in. For this, earth and sand are used; the use of a cement-sand mixture is allowed. All this is poured in layers and carefully compacted. At the same time, water is poured into the septic tank. The liquid level should be slightly above the top of the fill material. The pipeline is covered with sand and then with earth. In this case, there is no need to compact the backfill. The system can only be connected after the sewerage system has been checked.

Taking into account the above, manual installation of autonomous equipment is not so difficult. The use of ready-made structures eliminates any inconvenience associated with the drainage and treatment of wastewater. By adhering to the manufacturer's instructions, any owner of a summer cottage can install an efficient and trouble-free system with a long service life with his own hands. If another system is being installed, an ideal result is only possible if the calculations are performed correctly.

Technology for constructing sewerage systems in a private house: video instructions