Rules for fastening eurolining. How to properly attach the lining? – Some useful tips from Professor Opilkin What kind of screws for eurolining

The walls in the house take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be treated as carefully as possible, having thought through both the type of facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must have an attractive appearance and be easy to clean. The article will discuss the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most popular building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and interior work. After all, a tree is natural material, which is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

Eurolining is a type finishing material, processed in a special way on all sides. To facilitate the sheathing, there are grooves and tenons along its edges. The sizes of eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material is with the following parameters:
1. thickness 1.2 cm;
2. width 9.6 cm;
3. length 2-3 m.
Lining - quite practical material, which is easy to install. It helps in leveling walls and hiding defects that arise when walls are plastered incorrectly. The characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is wood, both deciduous and coniferous. Coniferous trees are much cheaper in price than deciduous trees. So, eurolining made of cedar will cost more than pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
Also, other types of materials are used in production. The most cost-effective material is PVC eurolining, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
If there is a need to decorate the room from the inside, then it is allowed to use finishing material with low characteristics. When external cladding, on the contrary, you should use eurolining made of hardwood, which is not afraid aggressive environment operation, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. To make it last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives greater strength and wear resistance.

A type of eurolining

Difference by class

class "extra". This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
"A" class. This type may have minor defects;
"B" class. There are more knots here than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
"C" class. The cheapest and low-quality type of eurolining. Its applications for decorative design inappropriate.

Difference by wood

The most popular type of eurolining is board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive performance of the material, but also to its rather low price. Pine eurolining has quite high strength, and its specific gravity relatively small. It will not create too much stress on the sheathing. This wood contains much less moisture than deciduous wood. In addition, the amount of time required to dry its preparations is significantly less than for drying other species. This fact leads to optimization of the production process and lower costs.
Since eurolining made from pine has a high content of resins, it is durable and beneficial for the human body. After all, the release into the air essential oils can cure even advanced chronic pulmonary diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not harm anyone, at the same time creating good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which significantly increases the service life of wood.

In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is different beautiful design from knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of pine eurolining:

attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
long service life. It is not even necessary to treat this board with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
low weight;
a large number of manufacturers on the market;
relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
quite a wide range. The point is that exactly pine boards presented on the market in all possible designs. Sizes can be selected to suit every taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the required size is more difficult to find;
pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. This makes it quite easy to install. You can do this yourself, without involving professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, it also has beneficial properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material. spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during its entire service life. This board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of euro-lining made from spruce is significantly lower than that of pine boards.

So, let’s move on directly to the installation of the eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fasten eurolining

Preparing walls for cladding. Initially, you need to level the wall. In this case, you should use a sheathing that is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. Lathing is not required if the walls are already fairly smooth.
Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of its installation. Thus, vertical installation visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying it at an angle will look stylish and original.
Choosing a mounting method. There are several options for fastening eurolining. This is fastening to the wall itself or to the sheathing, fastening to special brackets with holes for installation. The last method is used if narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall to connect it into a groove with the next element.
If you need to make the fastening invisible, then you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the Eurolining tenon itself. In this case, the next element closes the head of the screw when joining and entering the groove into the groove.
When self-tapping screws are attached to the eurolining itself, special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the fastening and give the wallpaper a seamless look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

Eurolining should be stored in a special way before installation. It must be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct exposure to sunlight should be absolutely excluded.
In order for the material to get used to environment, it is recommended to remove it from the packaging two days before the start of installation work.
Using a dry or slightly damp cloth, remove dust and dirt from the material.
It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against insects. After this, the slats should dry thoroughly.

It must be taken into account that installation work for sheathing are carried out exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 °C. Also, air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
If you want to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way to do this is before starting installation work. This will allow the varnish to be applied evenly and dry without streaks. When covering the walls of a bathhouse or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, during the heating process, it will release harmful fumes into the air.
The next step will be to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for the cladding. To do this, both the area of the walls or ceiling and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that the working width of the eurolining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal tenon fits into the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installing eurolining

In order for the eurolining to serve for decades and not lose its properties during operation, it must be mounted exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, often its fastening to bare walls impossible. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case installation can begin without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start by arranging a wooden sheathing.

It is a frame made of wooden slats, having a thickness of two or three centimeters and attached to the surface. They can be attached not only to walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For achievement best result, a level should be used. In this case, the slats will be installed as evenly as possible. You should also not skimp on the material for the sheathing. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only to perfectly level the surface, but also to create special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Methods of fastening eurolining

Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached with self-tapping screws on the side where the tenon is located. It is best to choose the length of the fasteners within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the covering, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

Finishing with eurolining using invisible fastening staples. The first board of the lining is applied to the right corner and cut according to the right size. After which it is fixed with the help of special staples, or as they are also called clasps. They firmly fix the cladding to the sheathing, without interfering with the joining of subsequent slats using tongue-and-groove means.

Invisible fastening with nails. This method of fastening is similar to the similar fastening with staples. But, in this case, it is not staples that are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the caps should be driven deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Installation of eurolining with your own hands

The first board is placed as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you cannot do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly level.
Next, the lining is fastened using any of the methods described earlier.
The next board must be inserted with a tenon into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical using a level or plumb line. If even the slightest inaccuracies occur, the board should be installed anew. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

The last plank is cut to size and, to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular a decorative wooden corner.
Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

In order for the facing board not to lose its attractiveness and to serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it requires proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and purpose of the lining.
If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and become deformed.
All kinds of natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can be used for protection. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
If you treat the lining with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be used to cover not only saunas and baths, but also the external facade of the house. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind, or frost.
To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the wood with a damp cloth soaked in soapy solution. If you need to remove a stain on the board, you can use a solvent locally. Subsequently, treat the cleaned area with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was previously treated with.

As you can see, eurolining is a universal natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and quite easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

In order to easily, reliably and quickly carry out installation and installation of wood, you need to know how and with what help it is necessary to produce certain renovation work. It all depends on what kind of room you plan to cover.

Lining- This construction material, very convenient and reliable for installation. Each board has a special groove on one side and a protrusion on the other. And as a result of their fastening, a reliable lock is obtained.

After studying our article, you will easily complete.

Required Tools

Tools and building materials that you will need for repairs: wooden slats (20x40 mm); self-tapping screws and dowel-nails; building level; ; mineral wool; ; mounting stapler; polypropylene twine; the lining itself; clamps; hammer; baseboards; finishing nails and bioprotective special composition.

Stages of preparatory work

We begin work with installation. To do this you will need 20x40 mm wooden slats, self-tapping screws and dowel-nails, a building level and. The slats must be fixed to the wall, while positioning them strictly perpendicular to the subsequent direction of the lining. Before fastening, check the evenness of the wall surface using a building level. If the wall is not completely level, place a piece under the batten and check for evenness again.

Installation of sheathing under the lining

The pitch of the slats is no more than 50 cm. The bottom rail is attached at a distance of 5 cm from the floor. The top rail is installed at the level of fastening parts and ceiling elements. They also attach slats in all corners and around windows and doors.

Important point, everyone. construction works Installation of electrical wiring should be carried out before installing the sheathing, since after completion of the installation and installation of the lining it will simply be impossible to do this.

After installing the sheathing, we proceed to heat and. To do this, you will need thermal insulation building material (), waterproofing building material (), an installation stapler and polypropylene twine. You can install the vapor barrier before installing the sheathing, and then put a second layer on top after filling it with mineral wool.

When installing and installing a vapor barrier, secure it rough side to the insulation. or make a vapor barrier with an overlap of 10 cm and be sure to secure the joints with tape along the entire length. The waterproofing is fastened using a mounting stapler in 15 cm increments. To prevent the mineral wool from slipping or deforming over time, it must be secured with polypropylene twine. The polypropylene twine is also fastened using a mounting stapler.

Installation and installation of lining

Installation and installation of lining. For this work you will need panels, finishing nails, a building level, a hammer and a small piece of lining. Before proceeding with installation and installation, it is necessary for the unpacked lining to lie for some time in the room in which it will be installed (at least 48 hours). Installation of the first wood panel always start from the corner. Attach to the sheathing using finishing nails or clamps. If you use clamps during installation, then in the future the lining can be dismantled quite easily by yourself. After which you can use this material for installation and installation in any other place.

Hidden fastening of lining with nails

After installing the first panel and securing it, insert the tongue of the second panel into the groove and secure it again. The second and subsequent linings will be quite difficult to insert by hand, most likely they will be difficult to enter. To make this process easier, there is no need to buy a special tool. You can do it yourself. To do this, take a small piece of sawn-off wooden panel and, inserting it with a comb into the groove of the subsequent installed lining, gently tap it with a hammer. This must be done along the entire length of the lining until it fits tightly enough. Additionally, you can secure the boards with nails at the top and bottom.

Measure every sixth board with a building level to ensure installation without deviations. Between the paneling and load-bearing wall there must be a gap of at least 2 cm. This is necessary so that in the future the wooden wall remains perfectly level without any serious deviations.

After we have installed all the panels, we begin installing the fittings. At the penultimate stage, the following tools and parts will be needed: a hammer, plinth, finishing nails and a dumbbell. We continue to build with our own hands. In order for the lining to take on a beautiful, well-maintained appearance, it is necessary to attach all the corner joints and cover all the gaps between the ceiling and the floor. For corner joints, use a narrow plinth; for lower and upper gaps, you must use a plinth with dimensions that close these gaps. The plinth is secured using finishing nails.

Wall treatment

And the final stage is processing the walls. The final and very important repair procedure remains: processing all mounted wooden walls fire-bioprotective special composition or . This must be done at least three times every subsequent day. After this treatment, your walls will serve you for a very long time. IN winter time It will be very warm here, and cool in the summer.

This completes the installation and installation of the lining! We hope that thanks to our article you will not have any difficulties installing and assembling the lining with your own hands! Good luck with your renovation!

Eurolining is a fairly popular finishing material in Russia. According to their own technical specifications it is ideal for any living space. This material is a lining made of wood, which is produced according to European standards. Eurolining is more resistant to moisture and at the same time easy to install. We also note that this material is environmentally friendly and allows you to hide unevenness on the walls without the use of putty and other materials. In addition, the lining makes the room visually larger. But how to properly attach eurolining to the wall and ceiling? Let's look at it in our article today.

Preparation of material

Before attaching the eurolining, you need to prepare the material. Although it is more resistant to moisture, it is still recommended to further protect the coating. For this it is processed by special means, which prevent rotting and mold development. After this treatment, the boards need to be dried and brought into the room where the finishing will be done. What is it for? The lining is brought in to adapt the material. This will prevent shrinkage. Also, before installing eurolining in a bathhouse, for example, you need to decide on the type of lumber. It is divided into several groups:

Premium It has an exceptionally smooth surface.
A. There may be up to two knots on each linear meter.
B. Couples allowed resin pockets and knots.
C. This is a low quality material with many through holes.

Lathing

Next comes the sheathing. It will serve as a frame for attaching the lining. This sheathing is made of wooden slats. They are directed in accordance with the chosen option for laying the material. When laying horizontally, vertical placement of the slats is required and vice versa.

Using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws, you need to secure the boards tightly to the wall. It is necessary to maintain a step of half a meter. When installing each board, you should measure the structure with a building level. Experts recommend leaving a gap between the underside of the lining and the wall for ventilation. This will extend the service life. Some people maintain this gap for insulation. The latter is usually mineral wool. The gap can be adjusted by the thickness of the board, which is used for the frame. The sheathing itself must also be treated with a protective antifungal agent. But this operation is not performed if, instead of slats, steel profiles. They are installed in the same way, using self-tapping screws.

As for the method of finishing the ceiling, most often specialists use the frame method. There are special requirements for the ceiling. The roof must be durable, without cracks or tears. Otherwise, the wood will rot. How to attach eurolining to the ceiling? The technology for laying this material is practically no different from walls, except that the joint between the latter and the ceiling is covered with a baguette. This way we will give the structure an aesthetic and complete look.

Types of fastenings

Before attaching eurolining to the wall in a bathhouse or in another room, you need to choose the method in which the material will be mounted to the sheathing. The lining itself looks like a plank. There is a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. The latter is inserted into the groove of the next board. There are several mounting methods:

But no matter what method is used, you should work carefully so as not to damage the board. It is fragile and may crack during installation. The lining must not be allowed to split.

Installation using self-tapping screws

Typically this technology is used in cases horizontal laying. Sheathing begins at the top or bottom of the wall. But it is important that the starting surface is as flat as possible. For fastening, a drill is used to make a hole in the board on the tenon side. The drill must have the same diameter as the self-tapping screw. As for the depth, it is enough to make a hole of 9 millimeters.

Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

The board is applied to the place where it needs to be secured.
The correct position of the element is checked by the building level.
Using a drill, holes are drilled through the tenon into the sheathing.
Self-tapping screws are screwed into both edges.
The remaining (central) fasteners are only screwed in halfway. This way we will ensure an even fit of the lining. Next, all the screws are screwed in until they stop.

This is a simplified assembly method that can produce high-quality results.

Nuances

But there are also some disadvantages of the method. First of all, you need to know how to work with self-tapping screws. If handled carelessly, they can easily split the eurolining. Also, a similar fastening method is not used in the loggia, since the horizontal arrangement of the boards visually reduces the height of the already small room.

Staples

This method is more complex and requires experience with a tool such as a construction stapler. How to properly fasten the eurolining in this case? Here you need to start working from the top. So the lining is applied to the sheathing and its position is measured using a building level. Adjust the board according to it. Staples are driven into the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees. If you use the stapler correctly, there will be no difficulties in attaching the boards. The staple will go into the tree as much as possible.

Among the disadvantages this method It should be noted that there is a need for a special tool (in this case it is a stapler, which not everyone has in stock and is quite expensive). But at the end we get hidden fastening. Externally, the coating will appear clean, without foreign objects.

Nails

How to attach eurolining to the wall using this method? To do this you need to use galvanized nails. The installation method is practically the same as described above. However, the use of nails requires a hammer. It allows you to completely recess the cap. Without of this instrument It will be difficult to fit the next board with the groove onto the nailed tenon.

What are the advantages this method? Here you get the most hidden fastening possible. The result is a beautiful wood surface. Sometimes the nails are installed not in the tenon, but on the board itself. But this method is not recommended for living rooms. This can only be done in utility rooms and other utility rooms.

We use a dowel

How to fasten eurolining using a dowel? You need to start installation only from the floor. The dowel represents wooden product cylindrical shape. It is used to hide technical finishing details. Today, a dowel can be used to cover the screws that secure the bottom plank from the floor. In this case, the starting eurolining is mounted with the tenon facing upward. It is fastened with self-tapping screws or staples so that the visible fasteners are covered by the groove of the next lining. As for the topmost board, it is also fixed and covered with a dowel. The latter is cut off or polished at the end of the work.

Among the disadvantages of this method, it is necessary to note the need to process the dowel after facing. This does not need to be done using other methods. Among the advantages is a smooth surface without metal inclusions. Experts also say that this method is the most practical among others.

We use clamps

This method is used for thin eurolining, since the clamps cannot withstand heavy loads. They are an improved steel bracket.

How does installation take place in this case? Installation must begin from the ceiling. The first lining is attached using self-tapping screws. Again, it is important not to split the part when screwing it in with a screwdriver. Then the board is closed with a dowel. The clamps are located on the reverse side of the tenon. To go in the right direction, it is screwed to the wall. Then the new one is driven with a groove to the first board and this process is repeated, screwing the clamp.

What is the advantage of this method? Experts note that using this method, you can save on purchasing screws and nails. But you need to understand that this method is only relevant for lining with a small thickness and low weight. For high-strength models, this method is not suitable.

Let's sum it up

So, we found out how to attach eurolining. As you can see, there are several ways and each is unique in its own way. However, the most popular among all is the staple method.

How to fasten eurolining in the absence special tool? You can use galvanized nails. This is especially true if a secret method is needed. Using metal sheathing Experts advise fastening the boards with self-tapping screws.

The difference between “eurolining” and wooden lining is that it is produced according to the European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material high moisture resistance. Significantly simplify installation and extend service life.

To install the eurolining yourself correctly you will need necessary tools:

electric jigsaw;
ruler with level;
hammer;
perforator;
wood screws;
mounting thread;
drill;
clampers.

You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the ceiling area arise quite rarely, but for ease of calculation, the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.

Be careful when using in calculations not the working width, but the actual width of the board, which is 96 mm; its error will be 7%.

Eat simple instructions, which does not require a specific classification of the master. It describes in detail how to properly secure the lining. It includes several points - from wall preparation to final finishing.

PREPARATION

Before you install wood paneling you need to do it indoors in advance best option electrical wiring. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-flammable material.

Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition for 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to the given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or expansion of the panels at the joints can be avoided.

The appearance of the lining will change over time depending on how you fasten the eurolining. The differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before installation, you need to select the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.

Attention: when finishing the ceiling, panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.

INSTALLING THE LATTING

It doesn’t matter what type of wood is used for the sheathing, the main thing is that this material is artificially dried;
Sheathing boards are attached to load-bearing slats with a cross-section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
Using a level you can check the correct installation;
The distance between the slats should be 0.4-0.8 m.

The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:

The slats are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
It is necessary to install the slats horizontally with vertical cladding, from wall to wall. It's better to start at the top and gradually move down.

THERMAL INSULATION

If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as insulation. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a water-repellent film is attached on top of the wool with a stapler, with the silver side facing inward. This can be Tyvek, Izospan or other waterproofing materials.

KLEIMERS

Clamps are hidden clamps that are used to secure eurolining. WITH outside This fastener is discreet, does not cause the wood to expand or shrink, and helps prevent the panels from splitting. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is located under reliable protection from corrosion.

Galvanized nails, screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps are needed for one square meter eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.

Pay attention to the first panel when fastening with self-tapping screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the supporting rails. Each subsequent plank fits into the groove pressed by the clamp with its tenon, fastener, covering himself. The last board is adjusted and cut to the required size. Hitting the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some force is not recommended. Hitting with a hammer can split a tenon or groove. In these cases, a piece of slats is placed under a hammer.

Attention: if horizontal mount eurolining, then place the planks with the tenon facing up to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.

FINISH

When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic; it protects the wood from fungus and rot. To brighten the wood texture, use wax or stain. The interior looks beautiful with a matte varnish coating.

We conclude that to figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached, special labor will not amount to. The good thing about the workflow is that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard, be it wood, plastic or metal, involves performing successive stages of work. Keeping it right technological processes, you will receive high-quality and durable coating.

If you choose wooden materials, they are environmentally friendly and have mass useful properties, your home will be filled with a wonderful woody aroma. This is a chance to reconnect with nature and old traditions. Give warmth and comfort to your family and loved ones!

Depending on the type of material from which the lining is made, it is divided into the following types.

Wooden

This material has many subspecies, the difference of which is in the varieties and species of wood. It is environmentally friendly and suitable for framing any surfaces; it is often used for cladding partitions in apartments. Easy to install.

The only disadvantages include the need for pre-treatment and subsequent careful care.

Plastic

The plastic option saves your budget. Suitable for both walls and ceilings. It looks aesthetically pleasing and fits almost seamlessly.

Disadvantages of the material - short service life. It fades in the sun and cracks in frost.

Metal

Such panels are made of aluminum and steel, which have an additional protective layer. The color scheme and texture can satisfy any buyer.

Aluminum products are designed to last quite a long time. Ideal for outdoor use. And as for steel, if the integrity is violated protective coating, corrosion processes will begin, and the metal will rot.

What is the difference between lining and eurolining

Both the first and second options allow you to finish any surface with high quality. However, eurolining differs in some characteristics:

Euromaterial is produced from other types of wood using other technological processes;
has an elongated groove for fastening;
it has other geometric parameters;
products undergo higher quality drying and special processing;
characterized by an additional ventilation function;
has a system for removing accumulated moisture, which protects the wood from destructive processes (special grooves are made on the back side of the panel so as not to disturb the aesthetics of the wood);
has a higher cost.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin attaching the lining to any wall, you should carefully prepare.

Processing of wooden products

Initial wood processing is very important and comes first:

If you are using coniferous species, it is pre-degreased and the remaining tar stains are removed. Acetone works well for these manipulations. Then everything is wiped with a damp cloth and dried.
To achieve the same shade of wood, treat it with a solution of oxalic acid and pharmaceutical peroxide.
It is best to immediately repair existing flaws with wood putty.
To preserve the natural texture and add richness to the shade, stain or similar special impregnations are ideal.

If you miss the moment of processing, clapboard-lined walls can bring a lot of trouble in the future! Chemical compositions, which is very important, protect against fungal infections and the activity of various insects that destroy the structure of the tree.

Preparing walls and ceilings

High-quality prepared walls and ceilings are the key to a successful outcome of the work and durability of the coating. Therefore, we proceed step by step:

All surfaces are cleaned of dust and other contaminants; you can use both a home and industrial vacuum cleaner.
Concrete and brick, in order to further prevent the proliferation of fungal colonies, are treated with antiseptic and water-repellent agents. Antibacterial and antipyrite (fireproof) solutions are suitable for wood surfaces.
Waterproofing on walls is necessary to create a water barrier in houses such as log houses or other wooden materials. Others do not need such protection. A vapor barrier layer (roofing felt, polyethylene, foil) is immediately laid on concrete and brick surfaces. The vapor barrier is mounted on fixed and leveled strips measuring 15x30 mm. How they will be installed - vertically or horizontally - depends on which orientation you prefer for the lining.

On a note! If the lining for the walls will be located vertically, the sheathing is mounted horizontally, and the strips for the vapor barrier are already in a vertical position and vice versa.

The vapor barrier is secured using a stapler. Make sure that the material is not too stretched, otherwise when temperature changes it may sag and condensation will accumulate there.

How to make sheathing for lining

To correctly align the beams under the sheathing, follow the recommendations below:

saturate the beams with a fireproof solution and protect them from fungal infections, as described above;
install the slats perpendicular to the lining;
maintain the same distance, the step between the bars should be 40–50 cm;
leave gaps between the floor and ceiling;
the frame must be perfectly level, use plumb lines or a level to check;
The gaps that arise between the beams and the wall at the fastening points are filled with special spacers.

Installation of insulation

The insulation technology is quite simple. The most optimal combination of layers would be:

insulation;
vapor barrier;
lining.

The existing sheathing greatly facilitates the process of additional insulation; the material is attached between the already installed racks.

One of the most popular and sought-after insulation materials is polystyrene foam, but it is not at all suitable for rooms such as bathhouses. It's better to use here basalt wool. It has excellent characteristics, and, most importantly, does not burn.

Ways to fasten the lining

As a rule, any facing material has a tongue-and-groove system, it is designed for high-quality fixation of the planks among themselves. But the lining should also be nailed to the sheathing frame. To do this, use nails, clamps, staples or screws. In addition, the attachment points can be made hidden or open. It is important to ensure that the entire structure is properly fixed and that the planks are not damaged.

Mounting stapler

Using a mounting stapler, fasten the lining quickly and conveniently. The staples fit into the grooves and connect the facing elements well with the sheathing.

Kleimers

This method allows you to cover walls with clapboard very neatly, but is one of the most difficult. The nails must be driven directly into the grooves so they remain hidden.

The clamps securely fix the plank, but it is very important to initially accurately select the nails in size. Typically, sets of clamps already include nails; if they are not available, the choice should be based on the thickness of the grooves.

Screws and nails

This option involves diagonal fastening. The working strip is fixed in the groove of the previous one, and the head of a nail or self-tapping screw presses it to the base.

Screws

Special decorative screws are used to secure the board on the front side. To make your walls and ceilings look aesthetically pleasing, installation should be done extremely carefully.

Installation of accessories

Finishing ceilings and walls with clapboard also involves installing fittings that allow you to hide the edges of the material. Often, a fillet or plinth is used for these purposes; they are secured with small nails.

Basic installation rules:

floor connecting strips are fixed to the floor;
products for ceilings are fixed accordingly;
strips for corners, when the adjacent clapboard wall in the room is not sheathed, are mounted to this wall;
strips for corners located between sheathed walls are installed on the shorter one.

When working with plastic lining, the fittings are glued.

We cover the wall with clapboard

It is very important, before starting cladding, to withstand wood material in a dry room for about 48 hours. If you get down to business right away, you risk getting the structure deformed. Make sure that during the working process the temperature is above zero and the air humidity is at least 60%.

Horizontal arrangement

How to properly attach the lining to the wall:

Typically, the planks are installed in a horizontal direction. In this regard, we place the first bottom board with the tenon facing up.
Fastening is carried out from the far corner (relative to the entrance to the room).
To avoid visible defects on the top panel, we carefully monitor the horizon and vertical, starting from the first board.
We fix the first element and again check the level for possible errors.
Then we insert it into the grooves and secure the subsequent planks.

Vertical arrangement

As a rule, the lining is attached in the same way, both horizontally and vertically. Therefore, based on the instructions described above, we perform the following actions:

We expose the panels from the far corner. Let's fix the first one.
We drive the subsequent panels into the grooves and also fasten them. Be sure to monitor the density of the joint by lightly tapping the edge of the board.
Wide panels are better suited for this option. With their help you can create a beautiful plane with a small number of joints.

An experienced craftsman can complete such work within a day. When installation is completed, baseboards and corners are installed. Then the walls are treated with stain and varnish.

Features of fixing lining to the ceiling

We looked at what clapboard-lined walls look like, but how to sheathe ceilings correctly? Attaching the planks to the ceiling follows the same pattern as for vertical surfaces. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are very helpful here; sometimes small nails are used.

If the sheathing for the panels is made of wood, it is mounted in the same way as for the wall. However, it is better to leave the distance between the bars large. When a metal frame is planned, special hangers are installed, and the guide profile is fixed to them.

Advice! To finish the ceiling, get a second person to help. The work is not difficult, but it is quite difficult to hold the panels correctly and fasten them yourself.

How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse

Typically, the construction of bathhouses is made of pine wood. Many people are interested in the question of how to properly sheathe interior walls with your own hands. You should know that pine needles are no longer suitable for finishing a steam room; high temperatures it begins to secrete resin. When the evaporation is still weak, this aroma has a calming effect and encourages relaxation. But rich odors lead to heavier air, which is not at all good. Therefore, it is better to use birch or alder as a finishing material, which exude medicinal aromas, which have a lot of useful properties.

It is also important to use special wooden nails for covering the steam room. Everyone knows that hardware During the heating process, the rooms themselves become heated and upon contact with the skin they can cause a burn.

If you familiarize yourself with the main rules and approach the process competently, veneer the walls own home It’s not difficult at all, it’s even interesting. It doesn’t matter which profile you prefer, you now know how to attach both wooden and plastic lining.

Believe that everything will work out! Good luck! And see you again!