Ceiling made of lining: types, design ideas, color, figured design, lighting. Cladding the ceiling with clapboard Semicircular ceiling made of clapboard

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Ceiling decoration with clapboard is increasingly used in the process of improvement of apartments. The lining ceiling is assembled according to the principle of a designer without the use of glue or mortars, and after fastening the material does not need to be puttied or painted. This means that as a result of small efforts it turns out completely finished surface. High-quality material, properly selected tools and clear instructions are all you need to create a beautiful and durable ceiling.

What is lining?

To figure out for yourself how to cover a ceiling with clapboard, you need to decide what this facing material and for what purposes it is used. for cladding ceilings and walls, it has the form of thin planks with a special type of connection, in which a protrusion (tenon) of the next is inserted into the recess (groove) of one element.

This finish is making the right choice material will be appropriate not only in the kitchen and on the loggia, but also in living rooms. In apartments, lining is often mounted on the ceiling. Due to the variety of types, lining ceilings are suitable for rooms with different conditions operation and aesthetic requirements. For its production the following are used:

Solid wood species.
MDF boards.
Plastic.

The scope of application depends on the material. For example, in rooms with high humidity the most logical would be to use plastic, since this material is absolutely not afraid of moisture and is highly resistant to dirt and fungus. MDF or treated wood will look great in any apartment and will highlight a kitchen or hallway.

Anyone can make a beautiful ceiling made of lining with their own hands home handyman. He will breathe into the room new life and will add personality to it.

Although covering the ceiling with clapboard does not require much effort, to do it you will need some specific tools:

Hammer and screwdriver or screwdriver.
Wood saw or jigsaw.
Stapler, square and hammer.
Construction and water level or level.
Tape measure and marker.
Metal scissors (in case of installation on a profile frame).

Frame

At this stage, you should decide on the sheathing. It can be done:

from ;
wooden beam.

The choice of frame material depends on functional purpose premises: a metal profile is most suitable for conditions of high humidity; in other cases, you can choose the material at your discretion. When using ceiling lining made from wood and its derivatives, the most justified installation wooden frame, which is cheaper than metal and is excellent for fastening sheathing.

Solid wood lining installed on the ceiling creates additional load on the frame, which should be strengthened if necessary.

Cladding board

Advantages of durable wooden connection“tenon and groove”, practically devoid of gaps, have proven themselves well in finishing. The boards connected in this way have an attractive texture and assembled form are durable wooden shield. A lining ceiling can be made using material with different types profiles. These include:

Eurolining is a decorative board, rounded at one end and having a recessed groove at the other. This type of profile complies with the European standard.
American - has a special expanding shape, thanks to which, when fastened, it creates an imitation of the overlap of boards, which is widespread in the United States. This type of lining on the ceiling will look very interesting.
Standard lining - used on the ceiling more often than other types. When sheathing, there are practically no recesses between the planks, which are typical for eurolining.
The block house is an imitation of a log, since the profile has a rounded front part. Finishing the ceiling in an apartment with this type of clapboard will make the surface look like a log house.

Installation of a metal frame

When using metal profiles, the sequence of work will be as follows:

The lowest point is marked, from which the lining of the ceiling with clapboard begins. To do this, at least 6 cm is laid down, where the first mark is placed. Then it must be transferred to other sides using a level or level.
A metal frame made of a guide profile (UD) is installed along the laid line and secured with dowels.
It is necessary to install a supporting profile (CD) into the guides, which is fastened at a distance of 10–15 cm from the starting point of the structure.
The supporting profile is attached to the ceiling with U-shaped brackets every 50 cm. If there is a need to increase the rigidity of the frame, then crab joints are installed.

Installation of a wooden frame

When choosing wooden blocks as the basis for the frame, assembly will proceed as follows:

The beams are fixed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to the future installation of the boards, the horizontality of the structure is strictly controlled.

The distance between the beams must be maintained within 40–60 cm for plastic and 60–100 cm for MDF and wood.

At the beginning of the work, it is necessary to determine the area on which the lining mounted on the ceiling will be located, and secure two beams on opposite sides of the room, then carefully align the resulting plane using a level.
The following beams should be attached to the ceiling in increments of 50 cm, if necessary, placing wooden dies under them for exact horizontal alignment.

Depending on the type of ceiling, the beam is fastened using a driven dowel, anchor or screw. If wooden lining is used on the ceiling, the fastening should be as reliable as possible.

After installation and alignment, a thread is pulled between the beams, following which the remaining components of the sheathing are installed.

Reinforcement of such a structure is necessary only in case of increased load on the frame, usually these are places where lamps, decorative elements or multi-level transitions are installed.

Cladding ceilings with clapboard

Products made of wood or MDF have much more weight than plastic, as a result of which the lining of the ceiling with clapboard has special rules installations.

The lining intended for the ceiling is pre-cut into pieces of length corresponding to the distance required for installation minus 5 mm. The presence of such a gap will avoid the consequences of possible thermal expansion.
The first strip of facing board is fixed on each guide at a distance of 3 mm from the wall.

To fix the strip on the beam, you can use clamps (fixing staples), wood screws, construction staples fixed with a stapler, and nails.

The next strips are installed at a slight angle, so that the tenon coincides with the lock of the already installed facing board, pushing each new strip as tightly as possible into the groove of the previous one.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Plasterboard ceiling in the bedroom: design, 7 photos

There are many options for finishing the ceiling, and each has its own pros and cons, but if we talk about covering the ceiling with clapboard, then it would take too long to list the positive aspects. From ease of installation to practical characteristics. But when making your choice in favor of this material, you need to understand what it is and how to work with it.

Selecting materials.

Thanks to the variety of colors and textures available, the lining ceiling fits perfectly into any interior, regardless of the material on the walls. Initially, wooden lining was used for finishing railway cars, which is how it got its name. But today the scope of application has expanded significantly, as have the materials from which it is produced. In essence, it is a panel that has a groove on one side and a ridge on the other, which, when connected to each other, form a lock. This configuration allows installation both on walls and on the ceiling, in the shortest possible time with minimum set tools.

Thanks to the parallel stripes that form the assembled panels, a visual effect is created that enlarges the room. Therefore, the lining on the ceiling is attached in the direction of the narrower side of the room. Unless, of course, this contradicts the design concept as a whole. There is a more complex way of arranging the lining on the ceiling - diagonally. This is more expensive and time consuming, but looks very impressive.

In order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, you need to decide on the material from which it will be made. There are several options:

Wood (usually coniferous).
PVC (plastic with a pattern applied to the surface, or plain).
MDF (fine pressed shavings with imitation of natural wood).

The choice depends only on personal preferences and price, which can vary significantly. For example, plastic is much cheaper than competitors and does not require additional processing, like MDF. Wood, on the other hand, is a more expensive option, and is also divided into several categories, on which the final cost depends. There are 4 such categories in total:

Premium (no knots, cracks, or chips).
Class A (knots allowed).
Class B (minor defects are allowed).
Class C (poor quality, many defects).

In addition to choosing the lining for the ceiling, you need to decide what it will be made of. mounting lathing. It could be wooden beam or a metal profile that is used for drywall. The first option is considered more preferable, since it is possible to use small nails for fastening, or in the case of PVC, a construction stapler. If preference is given to the profile, then self-tapping screws with a “secret” head are used.

Installation features

Many stores sell special ceiling lining, but in fact, such a thing does not exist. This is just a marketing ploy, and the lining on the ceiling is no different from what is used for the walls.

In order to assemble a lining ceiling with your own hands, you do not need any special skills. It is enough to have the desire and necessary set tools:

Construction level (preferably several types).
Roulette.
Hammer.
Hammer drill (or drill with impact mechanism).
Hacksaw (if the sheathing is assembled from a metal profile, then metal scissors).

Covering the ceiling with clapboard does not take much time, provided that the preliminary markings and calculations are done correctly. This is the most important point on which the final result will depend. To find key marking points, it is advisable to use a laser level, but if you don’t have one, then a simple water level will do. First you need to find the lowest point of the ceiling, depending on it, other guide battens will be sewn, and the lining itself will be sewn.

Using a level, this point is transferred to all walls, after which they are connected by one line along the entire perimeter of the room. This marking will serve as a guide for all the sheathing bars. In those places where the guides are not adjacent to the ceiling, it is necessary to place wedges. Ceilings made of lining, especially if it (the lining) is wooden, do not tolerate distortions and differences in height.

The sheathing is attached to dowels, with a distance between the beams from 50 cm to 1 m, depending on the material from which the ceiling lining is made. PVC panels are more elastic, so the pitch should be smaller, while wood is able to retain its shape even with less frequent fastenings.

When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to finishing. First, you need to cut the panels along the length of the room, but removing about 1 cm. This is the minimum gap required when installing lining on the ceiling, for free passage of air, and if the walls are not parallel. And wood also tends to expand slightly during heat exchange.

If the configuration of the room and design allow, then assemble the ceiling from the lining from the window to the opposite wall. But if this is not possible, then you can start from any side. The first panel is attached with a slight indentation and a groove outward. A nail is driven into the groove or a self-tapping screw is screwed in.

Tip: when using self-tapping screws and wooden lining, you must first drill holes in the groove of the board, at the fastening points, so that the panel does not burst.

It is advisable to do this at an angle of 45 degrees, but carefully so as not to damage the front side. The next panel is inserted into the groove and also secured into each rail. For a tight connection, the wood can be slightly knocked down rubber mallet, but if the lining for the ceiling was chosen from MDF, this should under no circumstances be done. The lock quickly breaks, and it is no longer possible to insert the next panel. If the lining is made of PVC, then, in general, there should be no problems with it. Due to its flexibility, the plastic easily fits into the grooves, even if there is a slight misalignment.

In the process of assembling lining panels on the ceiling, it is necessary to immediately make holes for electrical wiring, since then it will be very difficult, and the entire structure may need to be dismantled.

A set of panels is the simplest stage in finishing the ceiling with clapboard. Difficulty may arise only with the last segment. This panel will have to be extended along its entire length. In the case of plastic or MDF, it is enough to simply cut it construction knife, but the tree will have to be cut down. This can be done with a simple hacksaw, but a jigsaw will significantly save effort and time.

Tip: to ensure that the final panel fits tightly into the groove, wooden wedges are driven between it and the wall. After the lock is tightly closed, they are removed.

In conclusion, it must be said that the lining on the ceiling not only looks beautiful, but also has a lot of practical advantages compared to other finishing options. She's not afraid wet cleaning and does not require restoration. And even leaks from above are only dangerous for MDF panels. And after drying there will be no trace left on wood and plastic.

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

If we want to make a ceiling from lining, then most likely we mean wooden panels. However, lining is also called MDF and PVC panels due to the similarity in configuration and method of fastening.

Wood finishing is very beautiful, since it is a natural raw material that always evokes admiration, plus the unique aroma characteristic of a particular type of wood. Now I want to tell you how to sheathe a ceiling in a living room, but not in a bathhouse, since in such a room you still need insulation and vapor barrier, and this is a slightly different topic.

This article will talk about panels that are used for interior decoration in the house or at the dacha.

Brief characteristics of the material

Meet the wooden lining: the name of these panels comes from the identity of their configuration with a tongue-and-groove board, which is used for lining railway freight cars:

the size of the wooden ceiling lining has certain requirements, that is, it is better and more convenient to use thinner panels 12-14 mm thick, although the material can be from 12 mm to 25 mm;
but indoors, panels less than 20 mm thick are usually used, and lining, which has 20-25 mm, is used for external cladding(she is also called a “collective farmer”);
Based on GOST 8242-88, the width of the lining on the ceiling or on the walls can be from 100 mm to 150 mm, and the length no more than 6 m. Therefore, you need to cut the required sizes yourself;
if we talk about the types of wood from which such boards are planed, then usually it is larch, spruce, pine, oak, ash, linden or alder, but these are only ordinary options;
such panels can be made from any type of tree, including valuable exotic species - it all depends on your financial capabilities and wishes.

I will tell you below how to attach the lining to the ceiling, and I will immediately warn you that it is quite simple and depends more on the quality of the sheathing. And I also wanted to touch on the question of how to paint a ceiling made from such panels - this can be done with any paint for wood, applying it paint brush or even maklavitsa.

Note. When choosing a type of wood, you should take into account the fact that needles (spruce, pine) will not darken for several decades, while other species will become covered with a patina in a few years.

Step 1 – marking

In any case, whether it is a ceiling with lining elements or entirely made of panels, it must have smooth planes. To do this, a control line is drawn on the wall with a chockline (painting cord).

The depth of the ceiling cavity will depend on two factors:

firstly, this is the height of the room;
secondly, whether built-in ones will be mounted, and what type they will be (the shortest ones are diode devices).

Depending on the length of the lamp holder, you need to step back from draft ceiling plus 10 mm on free space. So, for diode devices, 4 cm is usually enough, but for others - at least 7 cm or more.

If the lining on the ceiling is in waves after a year, this is a consequence improper installation sheathings. The fact is that the distance between metal or wooden profiles the ceiling frame should not exceed 40-50 cm, especially in rooms with high humidity, for example, in the kitchen.

Despite the exhaust hood, hot steam rises to the top and settles in the form of condensate; let’s add temperature changes here. As a result of these factors, the boards begin to deform if their fixation is too sparse (large lathing pitch).

In order for the sheathing under the lining to be held securely on the ceiling, you need to correctly calculate the distance between the joists. To do this, mark the location for mounting each profile, marking control lines with a chokeline, as in the top image.

On two opposite edges of the ceiling, after 40 cm or, in extreme cases, after 50 cm, place marks, and along them, mark lines, the direction of which should be perpendicular to the future installation of the panels.

Step 2 - installation of the sheathing

If the ceiling is covered with old clapboard, it means that the sheathing is already installed there and all you have to do is change the panels. However, in our case we will do everything from the very beginning.

We have already repulsed the control lines, and it’s time to mount the hangers:

if the profiles are wooden (lath 20-25 mm thick), then the distance between them should be no more than 40-50 cm;
if made of metal (CD), then it can be increased to 60-70 cm.

Pay attention to the photo above - it shows two options for installing a perforated strip suspension - correct and incorrect.

So, we have already decided how far the lining ceiling goes down - we have a control line along the perimeter of the room. The same line will also be a guideline for attaching the UD profile.

On the upper side of the line, fix the UD profile with dowels and screws, and if it is finishing in wooden house, then simply fasten the UD with self-tapping screws. But in order not to stray from the horizontal level, leave the reference point visible, but close to the profile.

Cut the CD profiles 5 mm shorter than the distance between the opposite walls and insert them into the UD. But don’t fix them together yet and don’t screw them to the hangers.

Level the two outermost opposite profiles and fix them according to all parameters (this will serve as a guide together with the UD edging). And you tighten the rest of the profiles in the middle with suspensions, bending the ears so that all CDs are temporarily a little higher than the level.

Now stretch the nylon thread across the CD, screwing it with “fleas” to the UD along opposite sides– it will serve as a level for the sheathing. Next, each profile is laid along this same thread.

In this case, the CD should be about half a millimeter higher so as not to knock off the thread. All CDs that are aligned with the thread are immediately fixed to the UD and hangers, and the hanging ears are bent to the sides or upwards.

Step 3 - Lighting

Since you can only attach euro-lining or regular ones with sheathing, it would be a sin not to take advantage of the resulting ceiling cavity and not install recessed lamps. Moreover, if the ceiling is made of eurolining, then the spot lighting will look just right.

And then you first need to do the wiring. In addition to the overhead lighting, there will, of course, be other wires, so you need to pack them all for safety in a metal or plastic corrugation, which can be conveniently secured using plastic pipe brackets.

Before you start installing the lining on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to do all the electrical wiring with the exact location where the spotlights will be installed.

So, you will have the opportunity to make holes in the panels not in the installed state, but at the bottom - even before installation - this is much more convenient. To drill holes, use core cutters - in the kit you can select the desired diameter for the lamp console.

Step 4 - installation of panels

First of all, let's look at the question of what to cover with clapboard first - the ceiling or the walls, is the order of principle? I’ll say right away that in principle the order doesn’t matter, but adjusting the walls to installed ceiling much easier than adjusting the ceiling to the walls.

But there is a “but” here too - if you install UD according to wall panels, then no problems will arise here either, so do what is most convenient for you.

The panels are fixed to the profile with clamps, which are put on the lower tenon of the groove, as shown in the top photo. Depending on the material from which the sheathing is made, you will use screws or nails for clamps.

If the profiles are made of metal, then self-tapping screws are required, and if they are made of wood, then nails can be used. But since it is more difficult to nail the bracket than to screw it, it is better to use screws in the second case.

Assembling the panels on the ceiling is very simple - the tenon is inserted into the groove and the lock is ready! It turns out that one side of the panel is held in place by the lock, and the other by the clamps.

The outer strips, of course, are nailed or screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, while the caps should fit as close to the wall as possible so that they can be covered with fillets.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a regular ceiling from clapboard is not at all difficult - installation of the structure becomes more difficult if there are several levels of the ceiling. I hope that I have covered the topic in detail. Perhaps you have any suggestions or comments - write about it in the comments.

October 22, 2016

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Despite the fact that in our time, more than ever before, there are many materials for finishing and covering the ceiling, nothing can replace natural and natural material. The same can be said about the lining. Although the variety of substances from which it is made is amazing, wooden lining, made only from natural materials, remains unrivaled.

Ceiling decoration with wooden lining is widely used in all residential premises. The owner does not always have the opportunity to hire workers to carry out the cladding, so do-it-yourself ceiling lining is common in any region and in any city. It is for such people who want to learn how to cover a ceiling with clapboard with their own hands or simply want to learn how it is done that our article has been prepared. In it we will look at what lining is in principle, and discuss how to lay lining on the ceiling. We will pay the most attention to the last point in order to carefully consider every detail. Therefore, you should not mindlessly scroll through the photos provided. Try to grasp the connection between them and the text and understand exactly what moment in the image the author wanted to draw attention to.

Lining

So, in order to lay the lining, we need to know what it is. In short, lining is a planed board, usually not thick, having a tongue (groove, recess) on one side, and a ridge (tenon, protrusion) on the other side.

During assembly, the tongue is inserted into the ridge and a shield is formed. Since any substance reacts to changes in temperature, the lining also expands and contracts, and the thicker the wood, the greater the difference between the initial and final states. To prevent these changes from spoiling the look too much, the seams are usually emphasized by making rounded edges. It will even add a unique touch to your room design.

On the other hand, constant temperature fluctuations can greatly affect other properties of the lining that cannot be seen with the naked eye. For example, it will be unpleasant to subsequently notice a sharp deterioration in the strength of the material or deflection of the beams. To prevent this from happening, tongue and groove milling is usually used.

Wooden lining can be narrow, wide, thick, thin, straight, with rounded edges, round, etc. Therefore, the design options for these ceilings can be very different.

Fastening the lining

Fundamental differences in installation various types the lining cannot be distinguished, since in any case this process is divided into two stages: installation of the frame and cladding (read also: " "). For both operations, different materials and, as a result, tools are used. But each of them can be divided into even smaller components. They will be highlighted in the subheadings. So, let's begin.

Design project

Laying lining on a ceiling, like any other construction operation, begins with careful planning. In particular, this is especially true for design. It is necessary to plan the placement of the boards relative to each other and determine how well it will fit with the overall design of the room.

There are several common universal options:

dividing the ceiling into several functional zones, which can be expressed by different directions of laying the lining;
Creation multi-level ceiling by changing the height of laying the lining;
experimenting with colors and shades of lining throughout the ceiling. For example, you can make a smooth transition from one color to another or apply a pattern.

Naturally, all this is sketched on paper or saved electronically.

Marking

Don't be afraid to spend time on this step, or any other. Pay enough attention to each stage.

According to a specific design, mark the ceiling with a marker, pencil or a piece of brick. After this, attach a level to the wall and mark the lines either with a cord with dye, or draw a line along the level with a pencil.

Frame installation

If the room has fairly high ceilings and additional space for communications is needed, then their cuttings can be placed under whole boards, thus creating free space to accommodate everything you need.

Each board must be treated with an antiseptic. Any antiseptic sold in a hardware store is suitable for this. But a colored composition will look better than others, which will not only protect the wood from adverse external influences, but will also delight the eye with a pleasant shade. In addition, thanks to the color, you will be able to notice missed spots or areas where the antiseptic was not applied in a thick enough layer.

The distance between the frame boards should be 30-50 cm. It may be less, but in this case, excess material consumption is possible. It is convenient to fasten the boards to dowel-nails with threads. Threaded nails are indispensable, as they can come in handy when, after checking the level of the frame, you find problems. Then you can unscrew the nail, adjust the thickness of the boss and return everything to its place without much effort.

What and how to cover the ceiling so that it is not only beautiful, but also practical, and, if possible, environmentally friendly, interests many. From the variety of finishes, experts highlight clapboard cladding, a material that is one of the most common methods of finishing the ceiling.

Peculiarities

Interesting origin of the name building material. Previously, transport cars were lined wooden slats, which then began to be used in interior decoration. This is how the generalized name for the wooden material came about.

Its main feature is naturalness. A room in which the ceiling is decorated with wooden paneling breathes. A natural microclimate is formed in it due to the property of wood that absorbs moisture when there is an excess of it and releases when there is a shortage.

Distinctive Features are:

naturalness and naturalness;
durability and reliability in use;
heat and sound insulation;
security;
resistance to decay processes;
ease of care;
ease of installation;
originality of appearance;
complete safety for health;
a great opportunity to hide communications.

Wooden lining is the ancestor of such products as metal and plastic lining. A feature of all types is its shape and installation. A classic of the genre, wooden lining is suitable for finishing various surfaces, including the ceiling. Existing disadvantage– poor moisture and heat resistance is easily eliminated today. The necessary impregnations will easily cope with this problem.

The plastic version of the ceiling lining is primarily budget-friendly. Produced using seamless technology, it is attractive and elegant. However, it has a number of serious disadvantages. The main one is its fragility. Over time, it loses its snowy whiteness, fades and turns yellow. Subject to mechanical stress and temperature reactions.

Lining, made from thin sheet steel and aluminum, is more often used in finishing the facade of a house, but it can be used in utility and courtyard buildings. Aluminum product is almost forever, which cannot be said about the analogue. Inexpensive material is short-lived. Minor damage protective layer leads to an irreversible process - damage to thin metal.

Due to the many types, lining is suitable for finishing ceilings in rooms with different operating requirements and aesthetic requests.

How to choose material?

There are many manufacturers of this material, but the quality of the products sometimes leaves the best. To avoid making a mistake in your purchase, you should carefully inspect it during purchase. You should pay attention to every little detail.

Packaging – you should be wary if the lining is sold packed in film. This fact indicates the low quality of the product, since the seller is not allowed to tear the film and pull out the panel for inspection. Also covered with film panels are exposed to moisture resulting from lack of ventilation. This packaging negatively affects the quality of even first-class materials.

If possible, carefully check the plate itself. Slight bending jeopardizes the result of the work performed. It's better to refuse such a product. Firstly, there will be difficulties during installation. Secondly, even after installing it, there is no guarantee that it will last long.

If visual inspection is clear, inspect the surface. May show up transverse waves On the desk. The most thorough inspection is necessary for connecting structures (grooves and ridges). Under no circumstances should they contain chips or cracks.

For inspection, it is advisable to have a clip that can detect waves. If any are found, the clamper will not be able to be installed as needed. Make sure that assembly is easy when trying to connect individual panels.

Be sure to use a device, if available in the store, to measure the moisture content of the lining. Take the time to examine your purchase - this will guarantee the final result.

Choosing finishing material, you need to have an idea about its specification. Wooden lining is divided into four quality categories. They have significant differences. Cannot select quality material without paying attention to them.

Class "A" products completely suitable for ceiling cladding. Errors are possible here, such as resin stains (no more than two), non-through cracks (one or two), one knot is allowed.
Class "B"- relatively good material. Its use in residential premises is undesirable due to its aesthetic characteristics. This is an increased number of blind cracks, knots and resin stains.
Class "C" products is of low quality. It is used for cladding only outbuildings. In this group, the criteria are completely different - falling knots, through cracks, resin pockets. However, this material is not a complete defect.
“Extra” class products characterized by the complete absence of any defects. This perfect option for finishing ceilings.

This classification is a guiding star when choosing wooden lining. The type of wood affects performance characteristics manufactured product.

Design

A white ceiling looks unusual and original in combination with various materials. Lining on the ceiling in modern design popular and in demand, as the trend towards economical materials contributes to the creation unique style. And lining is just such a product, characterized by a natural texture, adequate cost and ease of installation.

To create it, various tree species are used:

The originality of soft pine products brown shades attracts customers and at an affordable price.
Clapboard made of spruce, interesting budget material. The final stage is painting the surface, since the structure of the wood is not very pronounced.
The main advantages of larch products are durability, rich shade and expressiveness of the wood texture. This breed tolerates humidity well.
Linden, plastic in origin, has attractive golden hues.

Coniferous types of lining are durable, practical, and resistant to moisture. Undesirable in rooms with constant high temperature. Since the released tarry substances can lead to fire. Deciduous species are processed and tinted.

White color, which is the basis of any style, combines perfectly with other colors and can visually expand the space. Preference is given to oil and acrylic paints. By treating the surface with a solution that protects against moisture and insects, you can extend its shelf life.

Eurolining creates an elegant picture with the help of various combinations of diagonal stripes.

The created individual elements on the ceiling - around a chandelier, for example. An interesting note in the interior will be the ceiling made of plastic lining, varying in texture and pattern. Using panels of contrasting colors, it is possible to zone the room.

Design finds using this material will allow the owner to give a unique and individual character to his home.

narrow and long panels expand the space;
designs made from lines blend harmoniously into any style;
a lattice structure with cross-positioned slats creates the image of a ceiling made of beams;
the lining with plastic plates of different widths looks great;

by laying MDF panels in different directions, they achieve an excellent imitation of natural wood;
luxury in decoration is achieved by using White color, diluted with gold or silver tone;
fashionable interiors prefer slatted style;
The combination of wooden and painted ceilings looks impressive.

There is an opinion about the suitability of such ceilings only on balconies or in country houses. It is wrong.

In the living room it is appropriate to use this material in the design of the ceiling. Lacquered planks can transform the surface. It is possible to construct an image beam floors how in alpine chalets or hunting lodges. This effect can be achieved by contrasting colors of finishing elements.

Remember: to get a cohesive look, you need to decorate the entire interior in the same style.. Painted lining will create a cozy atmosphere for relaxation in the popular Provence style, so necessary in the bedroom. It will acquire a barely noticeable element of antiquity and unsurpassed charm in the combination of forged furniture and varnished covering parts.

A more careful selection of such a product will avoid negative influence for people suffering from allergic reactions to the released ether compounds. The ideal room with a clapboard ceiling would be the kitchen..

Design in the above style would also be an excellent option. Here it is possible to use beige, white, and blue tones for coloring the panels. The interior design will be beautiful in the intended way. A room with stylish technology and steel surfaces of household items.

Ceiling natural type would be appropriate in a kitchen decorated with natural stone or its imitation. The use of panels painted in a color that matches other objects is suitable for decorating a corridor. Don't overlook additional details and general form interior

The nursery and office are designed in a similar way. In a nursery, a careful and scrupulous approach to such coverage is also needed. The only room in the house where it is not recommended to install a lining ceiling may be the bathroom. Excessive moisture may cause the coating to deteriorate.

Calculation

Calculating the required amount of this material for finishing the ceiling is not difficult, but painstaking. And the calculation must be carried out carefully so that the final result does not bring disappointment in the form of additional costs (time, money, nerves). It is advisable to purchase the product with some reserve. You need to start with a clearly developed plan for the direction of fastening the elements. Record all this on the drawing.

With the help of these records it is easier to calculate the product consumed. The ceiling area is calculated simply: the width is multiplied by the length (as an example - ab - 3x4 = 12). For accurate calculation you need to know the dimensions of the selected cladding material. This data must be indicated on the packaging of the material and comply with GOSTs. By dividing the area of the ceiling by the area of one board, you will know how many panels you will need.

Programs will come to the rescue online calculators. All you need is knowledge of the basic parameters of the panel - width, length, height and thickness. Based on practice, it has been noted that the results of two similar measurements do not have significant differences. The accuracy of measurements will save the budget allocated for repairs and protect against unnecessary trimmings. However, do not forget about the rule of rounding up the fractional value and adding to it 15% of the strategic material reserve.

You can immediately calculate the cost of the material. When purchasing, you need to know the parameters of the lining and required quantity. And don’t forget about the factors that influence the cost: the price depends on the size of the lining, with accurate measurement of which it will be possible to purchase the necessary cash. Now it’s time to safely begin installation work.

Installation

To carry out any work, you need to carefully prepare. You don’t need any special skills, if you have the desire. But you need to assemble a tool, without which nothing will definitely work. You will need several types of building levels. Without a tape measure you will have to work, as they say, by eye, which is absolutely unacceptable. You need a hammer, a hacksaw, a jigsaw and a screwdriver.

In the event that the sheathing is made of metal profile, it is better to use scissors. When installing the casing, use a drill with an impact mechanism or a hammer drill concrete ceiling. The minimum diameter of the drill is at least 6-7 mm. In terms of time, the cladding will take a little time if the correct calculations and clear markings are made. There are two types of caracas for mounting panels - wooden and metal. The first option is considered more optimal. It is cheaper and easier to work with.

Wooden sheathing will require:

timber 4x4 cm corresponding to the ceiling area;
brackets;
wooden or plastic wedges;
self-tapping screws

For metal frame needed:

metallic profile;
suspension;
fasteners;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

If necessary, the lining should be dried before installation. Clean the ceiling itself from dirt, dust and old plaster. Find key marking points using a level. The first will be the lowest point of the ceiling, which is transferred to all walls and connected along the perimeter by one line. These are guidelines for the sheathing bars.

A small nuance: in places where the guides do not adhere to the ceiling, use wedges.

Ceilings with such cladding cannot withstand changes in height and distortions. The sheathing is attached to dowels. The fastening distance between the beams depends on the material from which the lining is made. Having mounted the frame, you can begin the finishing itself. Preferably this work do it together.

The first panel is fixed to the wall with a tenon. The boards must be fastened strictly perpendicular to the sheathing.
Before fixing it, use a level to correct its position.
The second track, tightly inserted into the grooves of the first, is strengthened in the place where the frame runs.
All other panels are attached in the same way. As practice suggests, the last board often has to be cut. To make the seam less noticeable, place it away from public view. During installation, immediately measure the holes for lighting fixtures and communications. It is necessary to score carefully.
The finished ceiling is decorated with wooden plinth around the entire perimeter. Preferably wooden lining and varnish the baseboards. A painting option is also possible.

In creating comfort in the house, finishing the ceiling with clapboard plays an important role.

So that she for a long time remained in pristine condition, remember:

It is not recommended to get it wet;
For cleaning, use a vacuum cleaner or a dry cloth;
stains that appear are treated with a weak solvent;
experts advise periodically treating the surface with antiseptics and fire retardants;
it must be secured very carefully;
give preference to natural materials.

A ceiling made of eurolining can be made as in brick house, and in the apartment. It is necessary to take only high-quality eurolining and install it following the step-by-step instructions.

You can choose a material that has patterns. This option is most suitable for an attic or loggia, and it will also look good in the country.

The mirror lining looks stylish. You can put family photos on it. In this case, it must certainly be wide.

When laying, it is necessary, first of all, to set the guidelines correctly. This way, it will be easier to hem the lining with your own hands. The material must be placed tightly and joined together carefully. Next, it is important to nail down the paneling so that the paneling will serve you for many years.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Cross beams Wood on the ceiling makes the room visually wider. Also, this ceiling covering looks very stylish and interesting.

This ceiling covering fits perfectly into any interior style. You can match it with all sorts of beautiful decorative elements.

The clapboard ceiling does not burden the room at all.

Beautiful examples design wooden ceilings in the interior, you can see in this video.