When making a decision to install a self-leveling polymer floor, the owner must be aware that the work performed must be of a high level of quality and last as long as possible. Therefore, in what follows we will talk specifically about modern ways obtaining self-leveling floors. The technology discussed below is not the most accessible and easiest.
Self-leveling polymer 3D floors are currently recommended as a finishing coating. It will not only give the floor originality and originality, but will also make such a coating an equal component of the interior.
The essence of 3D floors is that, thanks to the decorative component based on high-strength polyurethane, such floors allow you to create a quasi-three-dimensional image. Such floors are made in two stages: first in the usual way The polymer is poured, and then, when it is ready, the finishing coating is performed. Since transparent polymers are used, the resulting image will have a certain depth.
The aesthetic level of such floors is very high, which allows you to create real architectural compositions, even using components such as colored sand or marble chips.
Naturally, the implementation of this type of self-leveling floor will have its own nuances, which will be discussed further. For now, let's look at the steps required to create the main polymer coating.
Preparatory activities
The room intended for pouring must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris, and all unnecessary objects (for example, baseboards) must be removed from it.
Next, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for the work.. In particular, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris, and to remove residues old paint, traces of glue, etc. – grinding machine. By the way, the quality and durability of the laid floor directly depends on the thoroughness of cleaning.
It is very important what material the coating is made of. For example, if you fill wooden base, then for better adhesion of the polymer to the surface, the wooden floor must first be sanded, open all detected cracks, and then degreased special compounds. The most commonly used degreasing methods are conventional organic solvents - acetone, gasoline or white spirit. But for subsequent polymer filling it is worth using more effective compositions.
If there are no problems with disposing of the remaining degreasing solution, then you can use an alkaline solution of CM or simply add surfactants to the composition. Special compositions that degrease wooden floors are also sold (for example, from the Mellerud brand) - in this case, you can protect yourself from possible fungal formation.
Next, you should evaluate the moisture content of the floor. It should not be more than 10%, otherwise it will be impossible to properly fill such a coating with polymer. At the last stage, it is necessary to seal the cracks with special building mixtures.
Preparing the concrete floor for pouring is carried out in a certain sequence.
Estimation of relative humidity of concrete
It should not exceed 4%, otherwise the coating should be dried. The simplest method Assessing the suitability of a concrete floor for pouring based on its moisture content involves laying a regular rubber mat on it, which should be pressed tightly on top. If after 24 hours the concrete coating has not changed its color, then its humidity is within acceptable limits.
Checking the strength of concrete (if laying was carried out recently)
The compressive strength must be at least 20 MPa, and the tensile strength must be at least 1.5 MPa. You can perform such a check using improvised means. For this you need a chisel and a hammer. Having placed the chisel perpendicular to the surface of the concrete, it is necessary to apply several blows with a hammer to it with medium force - if the marks on the concrete are barely noticeable, and the concrete does not crumble after the impact, then its quality meets the requirements;
Determining the presence of a waterproofing layer
If it is not there, then work on arranging a self-leveling polymer floor will have to be stopped, since over time the process of peeling off the coating will begin. This circumstance is especially important for self-leveling floors installed in rooms with high humidity eg in bathrooms. If waterproofing is of poor quality, the resulting vapors will penetrate through the capillaries in the concrete to the inner surface of the polymer floor and cause its destruction.
All other preparatory operations for a concrete base do not differ from those for a wooden one.
If a polymer floor is to be poured according to ceramic tiles, then it should be checked for possible voids (this may appear when the glue used to stick the tiles dries). The tiles that are lagging from the surface are removed, and the resulting voids are filled with putty. Next, the surface is degreased.
Prime the surface before pouring
The greatest danger when making self-leveling floors are air bubbles that can form in the thickness of the polymer during pouring. In addition, the primer ensures better spreading of the polymer over the surface being poured. This is very important because the setting process occurs extremely quickly.
The wooden surface should be primed in two or even three layers, which will ensure complete closure of the pores. Here it is most advisable to use primer mixtures with high viscosity, for example, from brands Litonet Pro, Knauf, etc.
For concrete surfaces A two-component epoxy composition that does not contain mineral components that contribute to the formation of bubbles is suitable. The primer is carried out in two stages, and the secondary primer is done only after the first layer has completely dried.
It must be recalled that primer compositions are very toxic, so the room must be constantly ventilated. At the same time, you should not allow the temperature to drop excessively, since at +15°C and below the effectiveness of adhesion of the primer mixture to the base decreases. After complete drying, the primed surface should “rest” for about another day.
An integral part preparatory work is laying a thermal expansion joint around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you can use ordinary wooden slats made of hardwood. The presence of such seams will protect against possible deformation of the finished coating in the event of significant temperature changes.
How to prepare components for pouring
Poor quality filling will hopelessly ruin the coating, so this stage should be taken with the utmost seriousness. To mix the components, you will need a low-speed electric drill with a wide paddle-shaped attachment. Even better if there is construction mixer. The quality of the self-leveling floor depends decisively on the speed of the mixing process, since the finished composition must be used (that is, poured over the surface) as quickly as possible.
During the mixing of the components, an exothermic reaction occurs, as a result of which the temperature of the mixture rises. To ensure that the polymerization of the components does not occur too quickly, the container in which mixing is carried out is placed in another, filled cold water. As a result, the temperature of the finished mixture will not rise as quickly.
For the same reasons room humidity should not exceed 80%. At higher humidity, condensation occurs on the surface of the poured polymer, as a result of which the quality of the pour will decrease, and the setting time, on the contrary, will increase.
During the process of mixing the working mixture, it is necessary to promptly check the quality of mixing. A normal visual inspection (for example, for the presence of lumps) may not be enough. Experts recommend checking the polymer-containing mixture for readiness for pouring as follows:
- a plastic ring with a diameter of 50 mm and a height of 30 mm (for example, a cap from a bottle of air freshener is suitable) is placed on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. This could be a piece of thick glass;
- the stirred mixture is poured into the ring, after which the ring will rise, and the mixture in the middle will pour out onto the glass surface;
- If the mixture spreads evenly, with a “spot” diameter of 18-20 mm, then it is ready for use. With a smaller spot diameter, the mixture will be too thick, and its subsequent leveling will be difficult, if not impossible. At larger diameter the mixture turns out to be more liquid, and the original components for filling should be added to it.
How to fill a floor
It is better to start the process from the wall, which is as far as possible from front door. Filling is done as evenly as possible in strips parallel to the wall of the room. Particularly problematic areas - between adjacent strips - should be smoothed out immediately, using a wide spatula for this purpose.
It is important to maintain a minimum difference in the thickness of adjacent strips. A needle roller will help with this; rolling it over the surface of the self-leveling floor will ensure its uniform thickness. At the same time, the quality of the pour is improved by removing possible air bubbles.
The final filling time is determined by the volume of the prepared mixture, but in most cases it should not exceed one hour. For proper quality of pouring, the interval between laying adjacent strips of polymer is also important - it should be no more than 10 minutes. After finishing the pouring, the surface must be covered with plastic film. It will prevent dust and dirt from getting onto the not completely hardened surface, and will also contribute to a more uniform hardening of the polymer.
Application of decorative 3D coating
The decorative layer can be formed in two ways - either with a picture with the desired image, or with a design directly applied to the coating. For the second option you will need acrylic paints, which are not destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. The first way is cheaper, since now you can find a sufficient number of drawings that you like, which can then be printed on a plotter using banner fabric as a base. To increase durability, the fabric should be covered with a heat-protective vinyl film.
The image should have slightly larger dimensions than required, since it is always easier to cut off a piece of the image than to glue it onto the self-leveling floor - this is ugly and inconvenient.
To connect the 3D image to the base layer, it should first be primed using the same composition as for filling, but diluted with any organic solvent to half the concentration. Polymerization of the primer coating will occur within 20-24 hours.
The printed image is glued to the primer and rolled using a dry roller. At this time, you can move on the surface of the coating only in shoes with spikes on the soles, otherwise the coating will be damaged! The thickness of the transparent polymer coating should be within 3-4 mm (the greater the thickness, the brighter the effect of the 3D coating).
The preparation and application of transparent polymer for covering banner fabric is the same as for the main fill. Complete polymerization will occur in 20-30 minutes, after which, to ensure greater durability, the surface is covered with a layer of transparent varnish.
Video - Do-it-yourself self-leveling polymer floors
The technology for creating a polymer self-leveling floor is complex and time-consuming, especially if we're talking about about 3D coating.
Specialists involved in the creation of polymer floors must have experience not only in pouring this type of mortar, but also in other related construction work.
This requirement is associated with the step-by-step actions of installing a polymer self-leveling floor, which also includes rough work with concrete.
Just a few years ago, polymer self-leveling flooring was used for pouring only in industrial buildings with high levels of mechanical or chemical stress.
Over time, the material has been modernized.
The high quality of the coating and the visually attractive appearance did their job; the polymer floor found its application in civil engineering. More recently, amazing technology has emerged that allows you to create a 3D coating.
Today, without resorting to the services of craftsmen, polymer self-leveling floors are created by the owners themselves in their apartment.
Before moving on to the diagram for installing self-leveling floors with your own hands, it is worth getting acquainted with their types and purposes.
Types and features of self-leveling floors
At the moment, two types of self-leveling floors are in high demand in the construction market: polyurethane and epoxy.
Polyurethane self-leveling coating is an industrial floor that is used as floor surfaces in warehouses, hangars, and production facilities.
They can also be used in parking lots, food processing facilities and industrial refrigeration units.
Industrial polymer floors are endowed with high degree wear resistance, resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.
Due to their unique structure, industrial self-leveling floors can perfectly cope with deformation loads on the base.
Epoxy polymer floors (another name is “liquid linoleum”) also have high strength characteristics and resistance to chemicals.
In addition, epoxy self-leveling coatings are distinguished by a smooth surface and a wide choice of colors.
The epoxy polymer material contains no solvents, so the coating does not emit any pungent odors.
This type of flooring is used for making floors in residential premises with your own hands.
The 3D technology for creating coatings stands out. This innovation is currently only affordable for people with above-average income. IN ordinary apartment or a simple private house, 3D coating is practically not found.
Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors
The polymer coating pouring technology involves performing the following step-by-step actions:
- preparation of the concrete base;
- device of the first - main layer;
- applying the second – decorative layer;
- the third stage is the varnish layer.
If 3D creation technology is used, then such a drawing is created according to a completely different scheme.
A properly prepared subfloor base is the key to obtaining a high-quality self-leveling surface.
As a rule, epoxy polymer coatings are applied to a concrete base, which has the following requirements:
- evenness of the plane, complete absence of defects on the base (cracks and gouges);
- arrangement of waterproofing;
- cleanliness of the coating, absence of greasy oil stains;
- humidity concrete base no more than 4%;
- The screed is installed using cement of at least M 200.
Therefore, if the base of the floor leaves much to be desired, it is recommended to apply a new one. concrete screed, under which they lay waterproofing material with their own hands.
It will take several days for the base to ripen, after which you can begin priming it.
A carefully primed base should have a surface that visually resembles sandpaper, which will indicate its high adhesive properties and will ensure ease of application of the polymer solution.
Decorative elements and a set of necessary tools
In addition to the fact that epoxy polymer coatings differ from all other floor finishes high level performance indicators, they can surprise you with their decorative properties.
Such floors allow you to create an original surface that has never been used anywhere else with your own hands.
To do this, just stock up on decorative elements, which can be sea pebbles and small shells, coins or multi-colored buttons.
Subsequently, you can lay out a beautiful mosaic from them.
Flooring is not limited to the above-mentioned decoration method.
In some places, such a floor is designed in the form of an artistic system, which involves the use of stencils and the application of certain patterns with paints.
That is why self-leveling floor can be safely called a prominent representative decorative surfaces.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the 3D design technology. Of course, such 3D coating is not cheap, but it is worth it.
Before installing a self-leveling floor, you must have the following set of tools and auxiliary materials on hand:
- a container with a volume of about 30 liters for preparing the composition;
- shoes with spikes (paint shoes) for walking on the treated surface;
- simple spatula, for use in hard-to-reach areas;
- a squeegee spatula, which, using an adjustable gap, will allow you to evenly distribute the mixture;
- whisk, low speed drill;
- aeration roller (with spikes) to remove air bubbles from the freshly laid layer.
Pouring a polymer self-leveling floor
The technology by which liquid linoleum is applied consists of two stages. At the first stage, the underlying layer is poured with your own hands, at the second stage the front (finish) coating is applied.
This is how liquid linoleum is obtained.
The components of the first coating are two components: fine quartz sand and liquid epoxy polymer material.
Liquid polymer composition distributed over the base in order to completely hide minor defects. In this case, the thickness of its layer should not exceed 1.5 mm.
Work begins no earlier than the primer has dried. It takes a day for the liquid layer to dry.
Using a level, determine the deviation of the floor plane.
If the thickness of the base at the highest point should be about 2 mm, then an acceptable thickness of the epoxy layer at the lowest point is approximately 10 mm.
The finished liquid solution is distributed over the base using a metal spatula, focusing on a high point on the floor surface. The thickness should not be greater than stated.
The liquid solution in portions must be prepared quickly and according to instructions, with a maximum time period of use of no more than 10 minutes.
It will take at least a day to polymerize the applied layer. If defects are found on the base, then self-leveling linoleum clean with your own hands using abrasive materials.
After this, the process of applying the front finish is repeated again.
At the next stage, they proceed to applying the finishing polymer layer.
Polymer linoleum is poured onto the floor surface in strips, their thickness is leveled using special tool called a squeegee.
In hard-to-reach areas of the apartment, a spatula is used to distribute the layer.
After the self-leveling linoleum has been completely distributed over the base and covered the entire area to be treated, you need to walk over the surface with a needle roller with your own hands.
The technology involves the use of an aeration roller so that the thickness of the polymer layer gets rid of air bubbles that negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.
In order to further protect the polymer coating, self-leveling linoleum in an apartment can be treated with wear-resistant varnish. The thickness of the coating does not matter in this case.
In rooms with a large area, the technology for applying polymer self-leveling floors yourself is slightly different from installing floors in small spaces.
Before pouring linoleum, the base is divided into several sections using expansion joints.
After the epoxy floors are poured, the expansion joints are sealed with a sealant specially created for self-leveling floors.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that self-leveling polymer floors, in addition to decorative functions, have many advantages in the apartment, one of which is sufficient thickness.
Therefore, such coatings are ideal for underfloor heating systems and are highly durable and practical.
In addition, they are endowed with the ability to respond to temperature changes without changing the structure.
Floors made from such materials are vapor-permeable, which means that the polymer coating breathes.
After reading the article, you learned a lot about polymer self-leveling floors, which can be found in the apartment (even in 3D version). But often industrial enterprises also choose self-leveling floors.
They are widely used in modern industrial and civil construction. According to their characteristics, they have proven themselves to be environmentally friendly, dust-free, impact-resistant and sound-proofing coatings.
Based on the composition of the components included in self-leveling antistatic polymer floors, they are divided into polyurethane and epoxy. The former are based on polyurethane and methyl methacrylic. Curing of the coating occurs under the influence of air.
The latter include a two-component epoxy resin as a base. Polymerization of such a coating occurs when a hardener is added to the mixture.
Since these coatings were developed for industrial use and are resistant to high loads, when used in an apartment or a private house, the difference between them is practically unnoticeable.
The difference may not be significant, but it is there. Epoxy self-leveling floors are more resistant to abrasion and impact (when a tool falls). But polyurethane coatings dampen vibration well and reduce noise (during machine operation).
Based on this, we can offer polymer floors in an apartment or house according to the following principle:
- hallway - polymer epoxy floors (here there is a high content of sand from shoes);
- kitchen – epoxy floors (high probability of heavy objects falling);
- bathroom and toilet - epoxy floors;
- bedrooms and living rooms - polyurethane floors (increased sound insulation of rooms).
The technology for laying self-leveling polymer floors is quite simple. Even a schoolchild can master it. Therefore for home handyman Laying a self-leveling polymer floor with your own hands is not difficult.
When performing work, he will need a maximum of one assistant. However, it is important to remember that no matter how simple the operations for installing a self-leveling floor are, they must be approached responsibly. Especially if you are planning to install 3D self-leveling floors.
Self-leveling 3D floors are the same epoxy or polyurethane floors, onto the surface of which a three-dimensional drawing, a finished photograph or a reproduction of a painting is applied. The top of such a floor is covered with a protective transparent layer (varnish).
Let's take a closer look at how to properly fill a self-leveling floor. More precisely, below are instructions on what and how to do.
Where does renovation work in an apartment or house begin? Of course, with planning, calculation of materials and your budget. Once you have decided which floors you will use, you can start making calculations.
Having chosen a self-leveling floor (epoxy or polyurethane), it is not difficult to calculate the amount of material for its construction. They are sold in sets. The composition of the self-leveling floor can include various fillers (quartz dust, marble chips, dyes, etc.)
The choice of color and filler is up to you. The kit comes with instructions that indicate which layer to use and what area it will be used for. On average, 1 liter of mixture is used per 1 sq. m of floor base with a layer thickness of 1 mm.
How to calculate material for self-leveling floor
The specific gravity of 1 liter of the substance is approximately 1.3 kg. For a room of 16 square meters you will need 16 x 1.3 = 20.8 kg of mixture. For polyurethane floors specific gravity 1.25-1.33kg/l. For epoxy floors 1.4-1.5 kg/l.
Sets of self-leveling polymer floors from different manufacturers may differ in weight. On average, 1 set weighs —— and its consumption is 20 m2 with a layer thickness of 3 mm.
Damper tape to compensate for the expansion of the floor when it is heated. It is laid around the entire perimeter where the floor touches the walls.
You can do without it, but for this you need to arrange a special expansion joint. It will be described below.
Tools
Tools for polymer floors:
- electric drill with low speed and mixing attachment;
- container for mixing components (plastic bucket);
- household scales (for weighing fillers);
- angle grinder (grinder);
- vacuum cleaner;
- wide spatula (can be serrated);
- fabric roller;
- needle roller (squeegee for);
- paint shoes (have needle-shaped soles and are worn on shoes).
Once you have prepared everything you need, you can start working. Important! Before laying the self-leveling floor, the instructions included with the set of materials must be carefully studied by you.
How to properly fill a self-leveling floor
Laying of polymer floors is carried out only on a previously leveled and prepared surface of the subfloor. If the screed has cracks or chips, they must be repaired. cement mortar or waterproofing mastic.
You can also use mastic to treat the joints between the floor and the walls around the perimeter. If the base of the floor has critical differences, then it must be leveled. Self-leveling floors are ideal for this.
If the surface of the original cement-sand screed is smooth, then it must be processed with an angle grinder (grinder). This will allow you to remove fragile elements and roughen (sand) the surface for strong adhesion of the self-leveling floor and the base (screed). If you do not want to use a damper tape, then along the perimeter of the room (where the floor meets the walls) a grinder is used to make an incision parallel to the floor with a depth of up to 5 mm and a height equal to the layer being poured.
This gap compensates for thermal expansion of the floor and will prevent cracks from appearing. Otherwise, lay damper tape around the perimeter. After pouring the floor, you can cut it with a knife and cover the joint with a plinth.
After cleaning, it is necessary to remove all debris from the surface and thoroughly vacuum the base of the floor. Dust main enemy self-leveling floors. If there are grease or oil stains, they must be degreased with a solvent.
A primer is applied to the prepared surface. Manufacturers of self-leveling polymer floors produce polyurethane-based primers. They can be supplied as a set of self-leveling floors.
If they are not available, you can prepare the solution yourself. The primer will be a mixture of 20-30% of the base material of the self-leveling floor and a solvent (acetone, solvent, xylene, etc.).
The primer is mixed in a container with a drill with an attachment at low speed. This will prevent bubbles from appearing. Mix for 3-4 minutes. After this, the primer is poured onto the floor and spread evenly over the surface with a flat spatula.
The applied primer layer is rolled with a needle roller to remove the mixture of air bubbles. Paint shoes must be worn on feet. If necessary, apply a second coat.
After applying the primer, it should dry well. Remember! You cannot make large technological gaps between priming and applying the base layer.
As a rule, the drying time of the composition is indicated on the container with the primer composition. For epoxy floors, complete drying time is 12-18 hours. For polyurethane: 6-12 hours.
When priming, the room must be well ventilated. The use of open flames is prohibited.
After the primer has dried, you can apply the base coat. Preparing the mixture requires careful preliminary study of the instructions.
Open the container with the base layer (liquid A) and, using a drill with an attachment at low speed, mix the liquid for 3-5 minutes. Add hardener (liquid B) to the center of the container with liquid A. Using the drill again, stir for 3-5 minutes.
Do not allow air bubbles to appear. While stirring, add fillers (quartz sand, dyes). When the mixture is ready, it is ready for installation.
Work begins from the far wall. From the container, the mixture is poured along the wall in parallel strips and, using a spatula (notched trowel), evenly leveled over the surface. Then pour in the next portion of the mixture.
When the mixture is spread over the floor, it must be rolled with a needle roller. This will remove air bubbles from the base layer. If this is not done, the floor will be weakened and may crack.
After last procedure The floor is ready and requires time to dry and gain strength.
After 24 hours you can walk on the floor carefully. Full polymerization will occur in 7 days and the installation of the self-leveling floor is completed.
To increase the wear resistance of a polymer floor, you can apply protective varnish. If you first apply a decorative three-dimensional drawing or photograph to it, you will get wonderful, exclusive 3D floors.
"Step 3" describes the sequence for epoxy flooring. However, it differs from the sequence of laying a polyurethane floor only in the preparation of the solution.
There, the role of a hardener is played by the solvent supplied in the kit. The time required for pouring a polyurethane floor after mixing with a solvent is limited to 30 minutes.
Recently, new types of floor coverings have appeared on store shelves. An innovative discovery was the appearance of polymer self-leveling flooring, which appeared relatively recently on the market of construction and finishing materials.
Its path began with application in industrial premises where increased dynamic loads are used.
But it is also often used where aesthetic appearance and environmental friendliness are required, this is the sector food production, sanatorium-medical institutions and so on. This type of flooring is poured, after hardening it becomes an absolutely flat surface and has no seams.
It looks like linoleum, which is why sometimes self-leveling polymer flooring is called “liquid linoleum”. Thanks to its phenomenal properties, beauty and practicality, it has become widespread not only in industry, but also in general household consumption.
Types and classification of self-leveling floors
The most basic classification is by composition, and so they are divided into:
One of the advantages is that work can be carried out in cold weather and is not susceptible to low temperatures. There are also disadvantages, poor resistance to chemically active substances, and high cost.
- Polyurethane floors– shows resistance to everyday household damage. They are used in unusual cases when flexibility and elasticity with a combination of strength come first.
Due to its elasticity, it can withstand any dynamic impacts without cracking or deformation. Also resistant to damage by chemicals.
In industrial buildings, the first types of self-leveling floors are usually used. The following types of polymer self-leveling flooring are widely used for finishing residential premises.
The following type of classification according to layer thickness:
There is also a classification, depending on the properties:
Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor
Like all building materials, self-leveling flooring has its advantages:
But, like all materials, they have their drawbacks:
- Very high cost
- Due to all its positive properties, it is very difficult to dismantle a self-leveling finished polymer floor; the use of specialized equipment will be required.
Preparation for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor
As when working with any floor covering, surface preparation, tool preparation, and ready-mix preparation are required.
We start with surface preparation. We remove garbage and vacuum. We carry out a visual inspection for defects, chips, cracks, and height differences.
We eliminate defects; if there are minor defects, we use putty; if there are rough irregularities, we use floor screed. We are waiting for everything to dry.
During the mixing process, an endothermic reaction occurs, you should be careful and careful. Take a mixer or a drill attachment and mix the components, then pour ready mixture onto the prepared surface.
Polymer floor pouring technology
The pouring process consists of three stages:
- Stage – Preliminary or base layer.
- Stage – Finishing layer.
- Stage – Varnish coating.
And so we start by pouring the preliminary layer. The pouring process is best done by two people: one prepares the polymer mixture, the second smoothes it, and removes the air from the finished solution.
In most cases, an epoxy polymer mixture is used as a subfloor, with the addition of quartz sand or granite sand. Pouring the solution usually starts from the far corner; pouring in stripes is recommended.
For a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to use beacons, which are pre-set using a level. The finished solution is poured onto the prepared surface, distributed evenly with a rule or a metal spatula.
Afterwards, an aeration roller removes air bubbles that form when mixing the components. Filling along a rope is also possible. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1-2 mm. Drying time is approximately one day.
After the rough coating has completely dried, you can begin finishing pouring. It is important to wash the instrument thoroughly after each use to avoid mixing.
At your discretion, you can use decorative elements. The elements can be coins of different denominations, buttons of different shapes and sizes, small river pebbles, seashells and much more.
It is also possible to use stencils, landscapes and drawings painted with paints. And recently the use of 3D films. The process of pouring the final layer is no different from the process of pouring the preliminary layer.
After the final coating has completely dried, a special varnish is applied.. That's it, the floor is ready after the varnish has dried. Professionals warn that drafts and direct Sun rays, do not have a favorable effect on the drying process of the poured floor.
It is also necessary to strictly maintain the time between pouring each layer. When pouring a floor with your own hands, we recommend that you watch video lessons on how to properly install a polymer self-leveling floor.
Prices for polymer self-leveling floors
The price will depend on the manufacturer, brand, region and place of purchase.
Now we will look at the average cost of one kilogram of the mixture:
- Polyurethane mixture – 230-260 rubles.
- Epoxy mixture – 250-280 rub.
- Methyl methacrylate mixture – 340-380 rubles.
- Blend on cement based– 310-340 rub.
It is important to know what the price is for square meter polymer self-leveling floor, consists of the price of the primer, preliminary layer, finishing layer, and if required, the price of decorative elements and varnish. The thickness of the layer also affects the cost.
On average the price is per 1 sq.m. and layer thickness 1-2 mm. material is:
Depending on the complexity, the number of decorative elements, the volume of work, the use of 3D films - the price of work per 1 sq.m. varies.
Polymer self-leveling floor is a finishing floor covering consisting of polymer materials. In other words, it is a polymer seamless membrane that is applied to the screed or cleaned concrete slab. This polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time protects concrete well from destruction. This flooring is a popular new product in modern construction, which has already earned considerable authority.
Self-leveling flooring is an ideal replacement for the usual parquet, tiles, linoleum or laminate
The color palette of self-leveling self-leveling floors can be completely varied. In catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor may have, but in reality you can get exactly the color that you need. This is achieved by mortar various organic dyes are simply added
Application of self-leveling floor
- in apartments, residential buildings
- in production premises
- in public and commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
- in food industry premises
- for sports facilities, stadiums
Depending on the scope and conditions of use, specialized polymer coatings are used
Self-leveling floors are made from high-quality building materials, which are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and arrange
We are ready to produce three types of self-leveling floors for you:
- glossy (creates the feeling of water on the surface)
- semi-matte (slightly duller than glossy)
- matte (virtually non-reflective)
Self-leveling floor installation options:
Type of self-leveling floor No. 3 is an original designer self-leveling floor, has a total coating thickness of 3 mm and includes the following types of components:
- First component: Europol primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
- The second layer is the base base (Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive films made of vinyl.
- The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europoll NEW Finish).
Type of self-leveling floor No. 5 is a designer polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and includes the following components:
- First component: prepared concrete base Europol primer is applied followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
- The second layer is the fundamental one base element(Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is designer (Evropoll Ral-Base).
Floor type No. 8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble/compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:
- First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
- The second layer is the fundamental base (Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
- The fourth component is the finishing one (Europoll NEW Finish).
Polyurethane or epoxy floors?
To figure out what kind of coating you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.
Epoxy self-leveling floor contains at its core epoxy resins. It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:
Polyurethane self-leveling floor It is distinguished by elasticity, flexibility and shock resistance. Has the following features:
- resistant to constant mechanical loads
- has increased wear resistance
- not afraid of ultraviolet rays (does not lose its color, does not fade)
- is manufactured exclusively in a two-component composition, which, after mixing, begins to quickly harden (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
- applied to the surface only at positive temperatures (at least + 5 degrees)
- does not emit odor when applied
- as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface
- endowed with high tensile strength
- resistant to prolonged vibrations and mechanical stress
- when directly exposed to ultraviolet light, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
- can be one-component or two-component
- the depth of impregnation on concrete is from two mm
- hardens slowly (no need for rapid application to the surface)
- When applying it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful fumes are released
- the floor is applied at a positive temperature
Features of polymer self-leveling floor
- High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand and dust
- Elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
- Resistant to vibration and possible shocks. Self-leveling floors will cope perfectly with everything physical activity and at the same time will not lose its pristine decorativeness
- Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type of self-leveling coating and install it according to all the rules, the floor can last more than 20 years
- Seamless flooring - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance to the concrete base
- Resistant to caustic chemicals
- Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
- Environmentally friendly (does not emit harmful pollutants into the air) chemical compounds)
- Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning using active cleaning agents
- Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (due to the use decorative materials)
- Fire safety (in case of a possible fire in the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
- The floor ensures no sparks, which allows it to be installed where work with explosive substances is carried out
- Maintainability - allows you to completely or partially restore the coating
- Quick and easy to install (work may take 1 - 4 days)
- Provides a perfectly flat surface
Self-leveling floor formation technology
1) Preparatory stage- leveling and preparing the base
Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of durable concrete (minimum M200) or sand concrete
The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various fats, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All contaminants are removed by milling and grinding
If leveling the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.
2) Priming the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand
The finished soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base does not absorb soil uniformly, then after the first layer highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of primer has polymerized, a second protective layer is applied, at the time of application of which dry quartz sand (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm) is evenly applied on top.
3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer
To make a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mixture or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount of cold water (if there are two components, then first dilute the first, and then gradually begin to pour in the second). The entire composition is continuously stirred with an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is used). As a result, a homogeneous fluid mass without lumps should be formed, which must stand quietly for two to three minutes so that the air entrained by mixing can escape. After this, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and wait until it hardens completely.
The thickness of the general floor covering should vary from 3 to 8 mm depending on the type of self-leveling floor chosen
The final stage, but not mandatory, may be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can emphasize the surface or make it matte, removing light reflections
Distinctive properties of decorative self-leveling flooring
Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. Embodiment design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coating. The floor should fit perfectly into the interior of the room. It may contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can reach several centimeters.
Decoration options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:
Adding chips