Useful tips on how to lay laminate flooring correctly. How to lay laminate flooring - a step-by-step method What laminate flooring is placed on in an apartment

Do you want to change your flooring, but are you afraid it will be expensive? Installing laminate flooring yourself is easy and quick. It will help save time and money. The main thing is to follow the rules, be careful and prepare for the process.

Stages of work

Installation of laminate slabs is carried out in several stages, each of which affects the quality of work and service life of the new floor.

preparing the base for the coating;
laying the insulating layer;
installation of panels;
installation of skirting boards and thresholds.

The laminate is equipped with special latches that fasten adjacent sections. Do-it-yourself laminate installation with step by step instructions anyone can do it. Special Education and no skills are required for this.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before laying the laminate, first prepare:

level;
jigsaw;
a hand saw or;
mallet;
centimeter wedges;
ruler/centimeter/square;
laminate;
skirting boards, thresholds;
wedges;
marker.

To ensure that the work is not done in vain, all rules and sequence of actions should be strictly followed.

Preparing the base

Before laying the laminate correctly, prepare the lower level. If you do not level the bottom surface, the blocks will “walk.” Installation consists of connecting the panels in series and snapping them together using locks. During installation, no additional fixation of the floor is carried out either to the baseboards or to the bottom layer. Therefore, how long the laminate flooring will last depends on the preparation of the subfloor.

Regardless of the material of the subfloor, the surface is leveled, cracks and crevices are sealed. This can be done, just like laying laminate flooring, with your own hands.

When leveling, a difference in surface slope of more than 4 mm is not allowed. The optimal discrepancy in level is 2 mm.

If the slope exceeds 4 mm:

tile locks become loose and break over time;
gaps appear between the panels;
the furniture is warped;
cabinet doors begin to open or do not close;
the floors squeak when you walk.

After leveling the surface, the final steps are carried out:

The concrete floor is poured with a finishing screed or sanded.
The cement-sand composition is coated with a primer. This prevents the appearance of cement dust and protects against unpleasant squeaking when walking.
align with grinding machine, cutting off irregularities. The cracks are sealed with putty.

Linoleum does not require special preparation for laying laminate. If necessary, level the linoleum surface.

Insulation layer

Before laying laminate flooring, padding material is laid on the concrete subfloor. It performs several functions:

protects the bottom layer of laminate boards from direct contact with the cement-sand mixture;
protects slabs from moisture;
serves as a sound insulator;
levels out microslope;
serves as insulation.

Wooden subfloors and old linoleum do not need to be covered with an insulating layer.

The following are used as a layer between the subfloor and the main floor:

diffuse membrane;
polyethylene film;
rolled/sheet EPS;
special composite materials;
bubble wrap.

The thickness of the underlay layer depends on the thickness of the panels. The product passport indicates the thickness of the layer between the main and lower levels. For panels 9 mm thick, a 3 mm insulator is used. The insulator layer is not fixed.

What to pay attention to before installation

When laying laminate flooring, cross-shaped seams are not allowed. There must be a gap between the joints. Professionals install panels taking into account that the seams are at the level of the middle of adjacent panels. When doing work by amateurs, this rule is not observed; it is allowed to make seams at the level of 1/3 of the panel. This method saves material.

Installation of laminate flooring on a wooden floor is carried out perpendicular to the location of the bottom layer.

When calculating the amount of material, take into account the cost of trimming panels located near the walls.

To prepare for installation, holes are cut around the pipes with a diameter 1 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. The junction with the pipe is covered with a special laminate overlay or the hole is sealed with glue/putty. The best option– putty first, overlay on top.

Before laying the laminate, trim the panels correctly. Do not use a hacksaw for this. It breaks the protective layer of the slabs. To cut pieces of panels use a jigsaw or.

When choosing a laminate, take into account that its thickness does not affect the quality. Panels with greater thickness serve the same as thin ones, but are more expensive.

Manufacturers produce some slabs with an insulating coating on the bottom layer. In such cases, an insulating layer is not placed on the floor; they are limited to a film to protect it from moisture.

If installation is carried out in winter time, you cannot use laminate immediately after purchase. The material is given time to lie in the room so that its temperature becomes the same as in the house. This is not necessary for the warm season.

It's better to buy right away required amount material taking into account the margin for trimming. If in the course of work you purchase additional material, his appearance may differ from the main one.

When choosing panels, pay attention to the consumption for the area of the room. Some manufacturers indicate consumption per 2 m², some at 2.7 m².

Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate flooring

There are straight and diagonal laying of panels. Installation in a straight line (parallel to the wall) is the easiest way to lay the floor. The diagonal method requires skills and more material consumption. The popularity of assembling slabs diagonally is explained by the fact that with such a floor the room is visually perceived as larger.

Straight installation

Do-it-yourself straight-line installation of laminate flooring with step-by-step instructions in the video:

Step by step execution:

The surface of the subfloor is leveled and covered with a primer.
After the primer has dried, an insulating layer is applied. There are 2 ways to work with insulation. It is placed immediately on the entire surface or in parts as the laminate is laid. The second method is preferable, since in this case the coating remains intact. The layer is placed slightly over the wall, without fixation. If the room is on the ground floor, a polyethylene base is placed under the insulation. She will save bottom part coverings against dampness coming from the basement. The film is placed overlapping.
It is accepted that the seams between individual laminate fragments should be parallel to the lighting. But this rule is not observed and installation is carried out without focusing on lighting.
Installation of the panels begins after installing the wedges to the end wall.
Cut off ½ of the whole part of the slab and install the first panel. The first row is formed. The end part is cut to the required size.
The second row is laid first without fixing with locks. Each slab must be installed taking into account the location of the joining seam. Cross-shaped seams are not allowed in connections. The outer slabs are cut taking into account the connection at the level of ½ or 1/3 of the adjacent slab. After the second row is completely formed, the second row is carefully attached to the locks of the first row. Fix the connections with a smooth movement. The fragments are tapped with a mallet using a special backing.
After installing 2 rows, check the level. If necessary, the slabs are leveled using a hammer.
Gradually lay the entire floor.
To connect to the pipes, use a jigsaw to cut out a hole whose diameter is 1 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. The open surface is filled with glue or putty.
The finishing row is laid using wedges located against the wall. If necessary, cut the laminate panels not only across, but also along.

After laying the floor, baseboards and thresholds are installed. For this purpose, special fasteners are used. Skirting boards are not fixed to the floor. Wooden skirting boards fit perfectly smooth walls. For surfaces with small defects use plastic skirting boards. Thresholds are chosen to be one- or two-level.

Diagonal mounting

Initial preparation is similar to that for direct installation. Do-it-yourself diagonal laying of laminate flooring in the video:

After preparation and coating with insulation, installation is carried out, starting from the corner.

Craftsmen advise first laying all the intact fragments, and then installing the trim sections connecting to the walls.

Installing a new floor yourself is not difficult and, if you follow the technique, will provide good result. To install laminate flooring with your own hands, you just need to be patient and do the job efficiently at every stage.

Laying laminate and installing skirting boards - video

Laminate is high quality flooring that has an extremely beautiful and stylish appearance, as well as unique characteristics.

Well, not everyone knows how to lay it themselves. If you decide put it in your home or apartment laminate, then we will give you advice on how to do it correctly.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly (preparation)

So, if you have decided on the class and color of the laminate, then you can start. Let's start with counting how much laminate flooring will be needed to install a particular room.

By the way, the room should be with moderate humidity, and in no case should it be a bathroom, because laminate is afraid of strong moisture, because of which it quickly becomes unusable.

Typically, one pack of laminate contains 10 boards. This The pack is designed for an area of 2 square meters. m, but only if you lay the laminated boards parallel or perpendicular to the window.

If you want to lay the laminate at an angle relative to the window, then in this case it is necessary reserve of 15%, and when laying perpendicular to the window, make a margin of approximately 7% .

However, you should know that it is better to buy material with a reserve in any case, since all measurements with subsequent cuts are unlikely to be done perfectly, especially if you are new to this business.

Laminate flooring can be laid at any angle. But: if the floor is laid perpendicular to the window, then the seams will be less noticeable. This method is the most popular.

If parallel, then the seams will be “emphasized” thanks to the falling shadow, and a visualization will be created wide room. Well and laminate laid correctly at an angle, will optically increase the area of the entire room.

Before starting work, you must prepare the surface, on which we will lay the laminate. The main condition in this matter is flat floor. In principle, it doesn’t matter what is on your floor now: an old wooden floor, laminate or just “bare” cement.

In order to find out if your floor is level, just take a building level and walk around the room, measuring the level of slope. If the floor level in the room is acceptable, then you can safely install laminate flooring.

For minor unevenness you can use cement mortar. In the lowlands you need to raise the level. Places that are too high should be removed. On an area of 2 sq. m level difference should not exceed 2 mm.

Well, if the level of the old floor requires drastic changes, then it is necessary to make a screed. Screed is an ideal option for leveling the floor. In addition to the screed, you can also lay out the floor plywood.

After purchasing the laminate, it is better to unpack it and let it sit for at least two days. adaptation in the room where it will spread.

Sometimes it happens difference in color shades on laminated boards. In this case, it is necessary to package the boards so that the differences after installation are as little noticeable as possible.

How to lay laminate

Before starting work, the floor should clean and vacuum thoroughly, so that debris does not get into the locks of the laminate flooring (it is small debris that often causes squeaking).

Recommended first layer cover with polyethylene film 200 microns thick. This type of flooring protects the laminate from water formations underneath. We lay down the polyethylene so that there is a surplus of about 20 cm, which can be trimmed after all the work is completed. For convenience, we fasten the entire flooring with tape.

Our next layer should be from EPPS(extruded polystyrene foam). This substrate is used for depreciation, and also as heat and sound insulator. This material must be laid end-to-end, to avoid thickening. We also secure the joints with tape.

All layers: polyethylene, EPS and laying laminate criss-cross.

If instead of a concrete base we have a plywood or wooden base, then there is no need to put anything under the laminate.

Now let's prepare required tools:

Jigsaw
Hammer
Wooden plank
Roulette
Pencil.

How to lay laminate flooring

During laying laminate flooring it will be necessary to shift the end joints to obtain a brick-like masonry. It is necessary to move the joints no less than 30 cm, and if allowed by the manufacturer, then no less than 20 cm. Such masonry helps strengthen the entire future structure and does not allow the laminate to “walk.”

You need to know in advance what size it will be last row of laminate, which will most likely be cut. This cut should not be less than 5 cm. If the cut is less than 5 cm, then you will need to reduce the first row.

The best option would be if the first and last boards match in size.

How to lay laminate flooring yourself

You can start laying laminate flooring with any sides of the room.

The boards must be fastened by snapping them into a special lock, as shown in the figure. The main thing in this matter is don't confuse Which side should the laminate boards fit into the puzzles on? On one side, the boards have hollow holes, and on the other, extensions that should fit into the holes.

Thus, we lay the laminate over the entire area of the room with our own hands. To make sure the boards fit snugly, they hit with a hammer, having installed wooden plank, hitting it.

To tap the last board, a special strip is required (as shown in the figure and video below).

The plank must not be applied to the board lock, otherwise it can be broken. The wooden plank should be applied to the top end laminated boards. Along the edges of the entire room should be placed small supports about 1 cm thick so that the laminate has room to “stretch” due to temperature changes.

You can dock like this single laminated boards, and in advance bonded row, but in this case, you will need a partner, because the stitched row of laminate may be too long.

Obstacles when laying laminate flooring

While laying laminate You will encounter obstacles such as pipes, door frames, transitions to another type of floor, etc. We will provide some universal tips on how to get around the obstacles that arise so that you can choose the most suitable suitable option specifically for your gender.

So, the choice in favor of a laminated floor has been made, the material in the required quantity has been purchased and delivered to the installation site.

All that remains is to invite a team of craftsmen and wait for the work to be completed. Is it really necessary to pay extra money for installation of the coating?

A good owner is quite capable of coping with such a task, of course, if he has certain basic skills and the proper level of accuracy and attentiveness.

The technology of laying laminate flooring cannot be rushed. So that the laying of the coating itself does not cause difficulties, and that the resulting floor lasts a long time without losing its operational and decorative qualities, it is necessary to carry out thorough preparation for work.

Assessing the condition of the floor surface

Usually, even before deciding to purchase a laminate, the condition of the “subfloor” is assessed and appropriate repair and restoration work is carried out.

By and large, a laminated floor can be laid on any surface subject to the main condition - it must be smooth, durable, and free from areas of dynamic deformation.

Otherwise, “weak” places will inevitably appear on the new coating, where surface integrity may be damaged, joints may diverge, and squeaks may appear.

Ideally, the floor should be strictly horizontal, with permissible differences of no more than 1-2 mm per linear meter.

must not have significant cracks, gouges, peeling or crumbling areas. If it is impossible to correct the existing defects, installation on an uneven floor cannot be carried out. You'll have to update the screed - or. You can start laying the laminate only after the coating has completely hardened, in accordance with the established technology concrete works deadlines.
If it is expected, its entire surface must be carefully checked. If areas of “playing” or creaking boards are identified, they must be repaired or replaced. Possible irregularities can be processed with a plane, grinder, fill the existing depressions with wood putty.
You can lay laminate, provided that there are no holes or bumps, delamination of joints, through wear, or areas of destruction of the concrete base. This coating cannot be repaired; it will be easier to remove the linoleum and carefully prepare the base for the laminate.

If funds allow, ideal option will cover the entire floor surface of 10-12 mm, having previously laid them underneath with plastic film for water vapor barrier. The process of laying laminate flooring will be significantly simplified, and the sound and thermal insulation qualities of the floor will increase significantly.

We prepare the necessary materials and tools

Good advice to all novice craftsmen - before laying the laminate, after it is delivered from the store, it is worth unpacking the panels and letting them rest for 2-3 days in the room where the flooring will be carried out.

Equalizing the temperature and humidity levels of the material and the room will facilitate the installation process and eliminate the risk of warping of the laid coating.

This time can be devoted to preparation necessary tools and materials.

First of all, you need to have the required quantity available, regardless of the type of base.

The underlay not only has a good insulating effect - it has a shock-absorbing effect and prevents friction between the laminate board and the rigid base, which ensures the longevity of the floor covering.

The substrate can be polystyrene or polyurethane foam, with or without a foil heat-reflecting coating, produced in rolls or in the form of rectangular panels.

More expensive, but very quality option – .

The lining material is laid end-to-end, without overlaps, so to securely fix it to the floor you will need double-sided tape. You can also use regular adhesive tape to secure the rows of backing along the seams.
It is worth immediately preparing a set of wooden wedges, 10-12 mm thick, for laying the laminate at the required distance from the walls of the room.
You can cut laminated panels to the required size with a regular hacksaw or jigsaw.
For high-quality joining of seams, you will need a hammer, preferably a rubber or wooden one (mallet). You can also use metal, but only through wooden spacers (bars).
To install sections of the coating located near the walls, you need to have a small mount, or you can make a lever from a steel strip with a hook and a shoulder protruding upward, through which the force of the hammer can be transmitted.

In principle, the materials and tools for installation are ready. However, there are a few other things to consider before you get started.

How to avoid unwanted mistakes

It is best to precede the installation by drawing up a plan carefully drawn to scale - the required visibility and clarity will appear in further actions.

What is important to consider:

When answering the question: how to lay laminate along or across, the following is important: the direction of the longitudinal joints should be parallel to the direction of the rays from the main source natural light(windows) - in this case the seams will be practically invisible.
The laying direction is usually from the far left corner, straight. For the panels of the first row adjacent to the wall, the groove must be outward, and the tenon must be cut so that a smooth end is obtained. Longitudinal cutting of panels is best done using a circular or vertical hand-held power saw.
On the plan, be sure to take into account that the last strip that completes the installation must have a width of at least 100 mm. If this does not work, you will have to reduce the width of the first row. The same should be taken into account if there are any internal corners in the room.
The thickness of the laid coating should not interfere with the free opening of the doors. Sometimes you have to remove and trim the door leaf from below in advance.
When planning, do not forget about the pipes passing through the thickness of the floor. To cut shaped grooves for them, you will definitely need a jigsaw.

After thinking through all the theoretical issues, you can proceed directly to installation.

Laminate installation process

Laminated floor panels are available in interlocking or adhesive versions. In turn, locks can be one of several systems - “Click”, “Lock”, “5G”.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly?

Each type of laminate has its own installation features.

Features of laying laminate flooring with the “Click” system

Currently, this is the most common locking system among laminate manufacturers and popular among craftsmen.

Its main difference from others is that you can insert a figured tenon into a complex groove only at a certain angle - at different manufacturers– from 25 to 45 degrees.

When the two panels are rotated in one plane, the lock securely snaps into place.

Another convenience is that disassembling the covering is also not difficult; when you turn the panel, the lock will “open.”

Work begins with the assembly of the first row of panels. It is laid along the wall and wedged on both sides with 10-12 mm dies. This gap is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the laminate flooring. The assembly process is simple - insert the tenon at the desired angle, accurately aligning the edges, lower the panel down until it clicks into place.
The second row is assembled by ensuring that the transverse seams are displaced by half the length of the panels (30-40 cm is allowed). The strip along its entire length is assembled completely, and only then is it connected to the first row. This will most likely require an assistant. After fixing the second row, it is also wedged from the walls from both ends with blocks.
Then the work continues in the same order until the room is completely covered.

It is imperative to monitor the cleanliness of the grooves so that no sawdust or other debris remains there.

If the material fits well, you most likely won't even need a hammer.

Features of laying laminate flooring with the “Lock” system

This type of lock system is gradually falling out of use, although inexpensive models laminates can also be produced with it.

The connection between the tenon and the groove occurs strictly in one plane, and the engagement occurs due to special protrusions and grooves.

The joint turns out to be much less durable, although disassembly, if necessary, is not easy - the tenon may be damaged.

When assembling the first row after joining end sides panels for complete insertion of the tenon into the groove, tapping with a hammer through wooden spacer. Wedging the row away from the wall is done in the same way as in the case of the “Click” system.
The second row is assembled gradually, one panel at a time (also taking into account the displacement of the transverse seam by half the length of the board). The first panel is inserted into the groove of the first row, tapped with a hammer until full connection, and then wedges itself away from the wall.
The second panel is tapped on both the long and short sides for reliable fastening of the longitudinal and transverse lock. Further work continues in the same order.
The most difficult thing is installing the last panel of the row adjacent to the wall. This will require either a pry bar or a curved lever.

The work is carried out in rows or “ladders”, to the end of the room. The last row is also carefully mounted with power transmitted through a lever.

It is very important to correctly measure the force of the hammer blow or the force on the lever so as not to damage the surface of the laminate or break the lock's tenons.

Features of laying adhesive laminate

Although such laminated panels are equipped with a tongue-and-groove system, they do not have a locking connection. Thus, the strength of the joint is ensured only by gluing.

Such floors are distinguished by good solidity and moisture resistance, but it will no longer be possible to dismantle or repair a separate section of the covering.

The installation process is more labor-intensive, and you will also need to purchase special glue. It is not recommended to use the usual PVA.

The technology for laying laminate is generally similar to the “Lock” system - the sequence is the same. The difference is that each groove is generously coated with glue (in accordance with the instructions included with it). Excess glue that appears after the panels are joined is immediately removed with a clean, damp cloth.
After laying the first three rows, be sure to take a break of at least 2 hours so that the glue has time to set. The same rule applies in the future, until the entire laminate is completely installed.

Master class on laying laminate flooring in video format

A video about how to properly lay laminate flooring, showing installation technology and preparatory work.

Let's finish the job

After the entire floor surface is covered with laminate, the spacer wedges at the walls are removed. The final stage will be the installation of skirting boards that will hide the expansion gaps.

It is important to remember that in no case are the skirting boards screwed to the laminated covering - only to the wall.

The transition to another covering at the junction of adjacent rooms can be covered with a decorative overlay or use.

In fact, the installation work is completed - you can move on to cleaning the room and decorating the interior of the room. As you can see, there is nothing overly complicated. The main thing is maximum attention, thoughtfulness of every action and the highest accuracy. Everything should work out!

Laminate is universal flooring, which has a large number of advantages, including the ability self-installation. It is the installation of this type of flooring and the nuances that may arise during the process that will be discussed in the article.

Where and when can you install laminate flooring?

Like any type of flooring, laminate must be laid on a flat surface, which can be wood, concrete base. However, even at the stage of selecting a certain trademark, collections, it is worth considering the appropriate class, which is determined by the parameters of the use of the room.

Today, manufacturers present on the market a large number of laminate models, differing in its strength, wear resistance of the upper protective layer, locking system, and decors. It is important to understand that the use of laminate in rooms with increased level humidity, despite its advantages, is not advisable.

In order for the coating to last as long as possible, it is necessary to adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding its operation. That is, the room must be heated, with constant temperature air, and it is also desirable to prevent frequent changes in humidity levels. This is explained by the fact that the basis of the lamella is a wood board, which tends to absorb moisture. In the process of releasing excess moisture, cases of complete or partial deformation of the surface are possible.

Preparing the subfloor

The main requirement for the process of installing lamellas is a perfectly flat surface. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to what type of base the coating will still be laid. Acceptable options include concrete, wood, linoleum. It is important to understand that installing laminate flooring on an uneven, soft floor is strictly prohibited; this can lead to breakdowns of the locking system, and as a result will lead to complete deformation of the base in the shortest possible time.

When laying laminate flooring on a concrete floor, you should make sure there are no cracks, holes, or other deformations. To do this, experts use a rule of 2 meters long. Having placed it edge-on on the floor surface, you should pass it with a wide spatula between the rule and the base, thanks to which you will be able to find out the level of difference, if any. More accurate information can be obtained using a laser or hydraulic level. The maximum possible difference per 1 m² is no more than 2 mm, otherwise it is necessary to start leveling the base with special construction mixtures, and wait for them to dry completely.

When laying on a wooden floor, it is also important to pay attention to evenness. If differences are detected, they are eliminated with a grinding machine. It is also worth making sure that there are no creaks, and checking all the elements of the base for strength under the weight of the human body. If during the inspection creaky places or weak boards are found, they should be replaced or strengthened. In modern practice, craftsmen often level the wooden base using fasteners OSB boards

silt plywood.

Required Tools To know how to install laminate correctly and what is required for this, you should read the manufacturers’ instructions and recommendations experienced craftsmen

The installation procedure itself is carried out quite quickly, provided that everything necessary materials purchased in the required quantity:

laminate - the required amount exceeds total area room within 3-10%, depending on the chosen method of laying lamellas on the base.
waterproofing film - you can purchase larger quantities, since its strips are laid overlapping.
substrate - its quantity corresponds to the area of the room. Today, the range of substrate materials is quite diverse. From the more expensive segment, the market offers wooden substrates based on cork, pine, as well as specialized substrates for the “warm floor” system. Cheap materials include fiberboard and foam film. Last option the most common due to significant savings, however, the service life of the lamellas on such a substrate depends only on the correct use of the base.
wedges, 0.8-1 cm wide, used to provide a technological gap between the wall and the lamellas.

If speak about construction tools, then you should take care of the availability:

jigsaw, saw, mobile machine with saw blade;
construction corner;
stationery knife;
building level;
roulette;
pencil;
hook for mounting lamellas;
hammer.

The presence of all these tools, or their analogues, will allow you to accurately reproduce the entire installation procedure, with the lowest cost of materials, and with high level accuracy Many people are interested in whether it is possible to use a saw instead of a jigsaw. The answer is definitely possible, but the procedure itself will require a lot of time, effort, and precision from the performer.

How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands - instructions

Very often, craftsmen compare laying laminate flooring with assembling a construction set, because the principle of the work is approximately the same. Based on this, you can understand that it is quite possible to do all the work yourself; the main thing is to strictly follow all the recommendations and rules regarding each of the four stages:

elimination of base defects and its leveling;
flooring waterproofing film and underlay;
laying laminate;
installation of baseboards.

When using a cork or pine substrate on a sand-cement screed base, then you should take care of laying a vapor barrier, which can be a standard polyethylene film with a thickness of 100 microns. The film is laid with an overlap of approximately 20 cm; adhesive tape is used to secure the edges of the film and the strip.

Most often, specialists use a propylene substrate having a thickness of 2-3 mm. With its use, there is no need to lay waterproofing material. Rolls of propylene film are rolled out over the entire area and fastened joint to joint using construction tape. Laying the flooring joint to joint allows you to avoid unnecessary differences in level and prevent the effect of creaking lamellas.

Execution steps installation work:

Assembling a starting row of boards by combining the tenons and grooves of adjacent planks. To achieve the ideal level of lock entry, you should use a hammer. They need to drive in a lamella from the back side of the board, using a damper block that is placed against the lock, to achieve an ideal joint.
All panels in the first row are laid with a tenon against the wall, and so that it does not interfere, it is carefully cut with a jigsaw. Along the long part of the first row, as well as on the sides of the boards, wedges are installed to provide the necessary gap between the wall and the covering. They are removed only after the last board has been installed.
When starting to form the second row, you should take care to shift the dies by at least 20 cm. To do this, cut one lamella and start a new row from it. The formation of the strip is carried out in the same way as in the case of the first row. To connect both rows, you need to use the help of an assistant. At a certain angle, the assembled strip is brought with a tongue to the groove of the first row, after which you can begin to gradually lower it down until a characteristic click is heard, which will indicate that the tongue has entered the groove. After carrying out this entire procedure, all the lamellas also need to be knocked down with a mallet or hammer, and wedges must be inserted.
Further formation of rows occurs in the same way. Special attention deserves the last row, because more time and effort is spent on it. Here, the adjustment of each lamella is carried out individually, after applying it inside out to the general assembled structure, appropriate marks are made along which the cutting is carried out. Such individual measuring will allow you to avoid undesirable situations that arise due to uneven walls. Also, do not forget about the 1 cm gap that should be between the wall and the slats. Fastening the lamellas of the last row is difficult, so for this it is advisable to acquire a hook that ensures ideal joining and preparation of each dies.
After the last board is laid, you can remove all the wedges. In the case where wedges were not used, one can expect deformation of the structure and its swelling, since laminate is a floating floor that quickly responds to changes in the microclimate in the room.

Specifics of laying different locks

Each manufacturer has an individual locking system that has unique properties, facilitating ease of installation work. However, despite this, each lock is designed on two main systems - “lock” and “click”. At their core, they constitute two types of tongue and groove, and differ in the principle of fixing the lamellas to each other.

Laminated boards with a click lock are initially connected at an angle, after which they are pressed against the base until the tenon is completely inserted into the groove. For a better joining effect, after laying each board, craftsmen finish it off with a rubberized hammer. When doing this, you need to be very careful not to damage the side lock. Slats with locking system“locks” are laid horizontally, and their complete fixation is achieved by driving in the lamellas.

We go around corners, bumps, pipes

The area of any room cannot be absolutely flat and without any obstacles. This situation is explained by the presence of communication and utility networks(pipes, legs of bar counters), complex corners geometric shape, doorways. Of course, the presence of each of these factors complicates the installation process, especially if it is carried out by a person for the first time.

To avoid all of these difficulties, it is enough to adhere to the standard rules:

If there is a pipe in the room heating system, the lamella should be laid around the pipe. To do this, you need to attach the board to the pipe and accurately mark all points of contact with the object. After this, the distance from the pipe to the wall is measured with a tape measure, and the data is also drawn on the back of the board. A hole is cut out according to the intended layout; it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the riser, about 3 mm.
In the case where the pipe prevents the lock from clicking, you need to cut off the ridge and lubricate the cut with an adhesive solution. Subsequently, the resulting gap is hidden with decorative plugs that match the color of the plinth fittings.
In situations with a doorway, it is worth installing the board flush with the door frame. To carry out this manipulation, in racks door frame a small cutout is made, its height fully corresponds to the thickness of the floor covering. After this, they begin to trim the dies to make it possible to partially or completely cover the threshold, or place it under the box. The final fastening takes place with a clamp, and the ideal appearance, without any visible gaps or differences in height, can be achieved with special stick-overlapping thresholds.

Provided that all the rules and recommendations listed above are followed, the installation process will not take much time and can be easily done independently. If you took care in advance about the correct calculations, the availability of all tools and materials, and also followed the technologies recommended by the manufacturer, such flooring will last for many years.