Axes were used with equal effectiveness in carpentry and military crafts, but the main area of application was still in the peaceful field of activity. They were intended for chopping wood and felling trees; without them it was impossible to build a simple hut.
An important part of a steel tool is the ax handle, for which you need to select wood and process it accordingly. As a toy, you can cut a wooden ax out of plywood. Like in popular computer games.
A little about sizes and shapes
Each master made an ax with his own hands, focusing on his height and specific application. It is no secret that a tool designed for chopping wood will be somewhat different from a similar product intended for cutting down trees. In this case, a small carpenter's hatchet for small carpentry work will be the exact opposite of the two categories listed above.
Despite this, a professional ax with wooden handle always consists of three main parts:
- working part made of metal with a sharpened front part;
- ax handle - a handle made of wood;
- wedge - a spacer element that connects parts of a structure together.
For self-production Special attention paid specifically to the metal part, otherwise the tool simply will not cope with its main function. Here, not only the shape and material are taken into account, but also the aspect ratio and sharpening angle.
Modern axes are usually made from medium-alloy tool steel, which has been heat-treated and hardened.
The blade shape is selected depending on the application. For example, products designed for arborists are often used for cutting down tree trunks and removing large limbs. This kind of work requires a great depth of penetration, so the shape of the ax should be wedge-shaped. Cleavers that are used for chopping wood have a similar shape, but have thicker “cheeks” and a sharper sharpening angle.
The length and size of the ax directly depend on the impact loads. If significant impact force is required, the handle is made longer to provide a larger swing. Here the dimensions are 700-900 mm. The length of the handles of log axes (carpentry tools) usually does not exceed 500 mm; a good cleaver is attached to a shaft of about 800 mm.
The shape of the ax should provide a comfortable grip, so the middle part is always made curved, the seat and shank have thickenings. The blade angle usually varies between 70-90 degrees.
How to choose the right wood for a handle
It’s curious, but not all tree species are suitable for making an axe. It is recommended to use only hardwood that has been previously dried in special chambers or kept in a dry place. Failure to comply with these requirements will lead to the fact that during use the handle will dry out and securely attaching the blade to the ax handle will be very problematic.
Home craftsmen use several types of wood to make wooden handles, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's try to figure out which wood makes the best ax handle.
Birch
This is a “come and take” raw material, but the availability of the material does not guarantee high quality. To make a high-quality birch ax handle, the wood will have to be dried for 10-12 months. Even after this, the material remains sensitive to humid environments.
Maple
It is also an accessible and widespread material with a limited scope of application. In particular, maple handles are not suitable for making quality instrument for a carpenter or lumberjack. However, the wood has a beautiful texture, making it ideal for decorative and souvenir wooden products.
Hickory
This unusual name hides an American walnut that grows in Canadian forests. To make an ax handle, this best option, successfully combining strength, elasticity and durability. However, only American and Canadian loggers can truly appreciate these benefits.
Jatoba
This is a type of wood unique in its properties, which is used for the manufacture of sports equipment and furniture. Jatoba is easy to process and has a presentable appearance. At the same time, such solid wood is not inferior in strength to oak, so ax handles made from it are very reliable.
Ash
Among the listed options, ash is considered optimal ratio availability and quality. At the same time, the wood has an interesting texture, so after appropriate processing, the wooden ax handle will have a presentable appearance. appearance without loss of strength and elasticity.
Important nuances
The strength and durability of the ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to dynamic shock loads. The reasons for premature breakage of the handle look like this:
It should be clarified that a properly made handle can last for several years without requiring repairs.
How to carve a toy ax
A homemade plywood ax can serve interesting toy for a child or will be a great addition to a New Year's costume. Often small children, teenagers and even adults want to do wooden axes, as in computer games like Minecraft. You can make such a product in 1.5-2 hours with minimal financial costs.
Making an ax from solid wood will take more time because the wood will be more difficult to process than plywood. The parts are cut out with a special cutter or sharp knife, removing the chips layer by layer, ensuring that the dimensions and proportions are maintained.
With plywood everything is simpler. First you need to find ready-made template or draw it yourself in life size. The drawing is transferred to a plywood sheet. The blade and handle are cut out separately with a jigsaw.
To make the wooden toy look more natural, it is better to glue the blade from two halves, after cutting a groove for the handle.
Then both halves of the plywood ax blade are placed on the handle, secured with pins and glued together with PVA glue for wood. After drying, the wooden blade is given a sharpening angle. This operation can be performed with an ordinary file. At the final stage, all surfaces are sanded and the blade is coated with several layers of silver paint. You can apply a custom design or stick a sticker. The finished wooden toy looks very beautiful.
It's no secret that an ax is an indispensable carpentry tool. In addition, the ax is especially useful in the household: from chopping wood to home repairs.
This article examines issues related to the manufacture of a taiga-type axe, because finding such useful tool It’s quite difficult on the market, and it will cost a lot. The article provides additional helpful information, which will tell you which ax is best to choose for certain needs.
What should a taiga ax be like?
Such an ax, thanks to its special parameters, which are radically different from the characteristics and sizes of “classical” axes, is an indispensable assistant when performing many tasks, such as:
- Tree cutting. Either carpentry work or simple blank firewood for the winter - a taiga ax will help you complete the task quickly and efficiently;
- Rough processing of logs – removal of branches, other similar work;
- A tool as a way of “survival” - any catalog of axes will confirm the statement that the taiga ax is ideal for hunting, preparing bags and traps;
- Creation of a hut and flooring, construction wooden house as soon as possible;
- Preparation of firewood.
In cases where the work requires special precision, the most the best option What remains is a forged ax with a long blade. Cutting down trees with such an ax is not very effective, but accuracy plays an important role.
Distinctive features of the taiga type ax
Most people do not see the difference between a taiga and an ordinary ax at all. So what are the differences between these two types of axes?
- The length of the roundness of the blade means that the taiga ax is lighter in weight;
- A long beard provides additional protection against deformation and breaking. Typically absorbs up to 60% of impact force;
- Special sharpening - allows you to use the ax as a standard cleaver, when choosing the right blow. In this case, the leading edge of the blade is twice as wide as the rear. The edge of a regular ax has the same thickness;
- A special angle of inclination of the ax reduces hand fatigue and increases the overall efficiency during work.
Making a taiga ax head
It is worth purchasing an ordinary carpenter's ax, the head of which will weigh 1400-1500 grams.
From the front we cut off the protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. We form the roundness of the back of the blade - the grinder will help us with this. It is necessary to cut off all the metal so that there are no corners left.
We move on to the inside of the blade - carefully cut out a semicircle, which is necessary for a more comfortable grip. In addition, this manipulation can significantly reduce the weight of the head. To further reduce the weight and increase the maneuverability of the ax, it is necessary to saw off the upper corners of the butt.
Sharpening is done using an emery machine. For best result a large circle with medium grain is installed. In addition, sharpening should be done on both sides.
Making an ax handle for a taiga ax
It is worth noting that the choice correct wood– the key to success in the manufacture of a high-quality taiga ax. Ideal options would be maple and ash. Simpler options are birch and pine. The latter is perfectly polished and sharpened, but is extremely unreliable due to its fragility.
Below are the instructions:
Selection of lumps - without knots or defects. Processing and drying - the tree is cleared of bark and split in the middle. Wood should be dried at +25°, with a humidity level of 15%. Aging lasts two months.
Creating a mold - we will need a hatchet or a large knife to remove the main wood. In addition, do not forget about a chisel and a small hammer - these tools will be needed for smaller jobs.
How to mount an ax? You should use gauze and epoxy resin. After three days, the taiga ax will be ready for use.
The last step is sanding and varnishing. The ax will become not only useful, but also beautiful, like in the photo from the advertising catalogue!
Photos of do-it-yourself axes
In every country house there are a number necessary tools For various works. To build a house, chop wood or butcher meat, you need an ax. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The purchased tool may turn out to be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is unsafe. A handmade tool is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.
Types of axes
The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.
In addition to basic axes, there are tools designed for special works. These include: cleaver, carpenter's axe, large carpenter's axe, sculpture axe, as well as a shaped tool and an ax for concave surfaces.
Making your own ax
The components of an ax are: an ax handle, a metal blade and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called the axe. Let's look at how to make it correctly and in the right size. To do this, you need to select the material and cut out the workpiece according to the template.
Homemade product impregnate protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. It is not recommended to coat products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip out while working. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The tool handle acquires bright color, and this is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not get lost.
Selecting a metal nozzle
It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so you buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a piercing part:
- A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips or dents.
- The metal is marked according to GOST.
- The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
- The eyelet should be cone-shaped.
Attaching an ax to an ax handle
The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, fitting and wedging.
Cracks that occur when installing a metal sheet can be eliminated using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then can you saw off the protruding part.
Blade sharpening and hardening
Performance tools depend on a sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, a different blade processing angle is selected.
Sharpening is done on an electric sharpening wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To quality cutting edge has not deteriorated, the blade should not be allowed to overheat. To do this, place a container of water near the grinding machine. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a sharpening stone or sandpaper.
Metal sheet Made from soft material, it will have to be sharpened frequently. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. For this you will need gas-burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everything is repeated 3 times.
Axe- a chopping tool, consisting of a wooden handle, usually short, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicular to the shaft. The latter are called tesla. They cut out grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely mansions and churches, hollowed out troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.
The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the wood are crushed under the blow of an ax and do not allow moisture to pass through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood are left open for rot to enter.
What types of axes are there and what are they used for?
The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, starting from the Bulgarian “axe”, Slovenian “topor”, Czech, Polish, etc. Experts consider the ax to be an Orthodox word and associate it with “to trample”, otherwise “to beat”, if talking about the heart, from Ukrainian “tepority” - drag with difficulty, Bulgarian “tapty” - I interfere, I trample.
The wooden handle is called an axe, the metal part with a blunt rounded end on one side is called a butt. Not the best option would be to choose a stick with round. It is much more convenient if the cross-section is oval and the ax handle consists of straight and curved sections. Its tail bends down for easy grip.
On the other side there is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blade next to the mount, which protects the ax handle from impacts on the metal and strengthens the fastening of the wood with the metal part of the product. It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, carpentry tools have beards; they are indispensable when working with wood.
Axes were used as cold combat weapons, cutting and throwing.
Depending on the application, axes are:
Another variety is double-sided. The blades can have different sharpenings and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used as throwing weapons as they are well balanced. Products are made from high carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their risk of injury, high price, uncomfortable handle, and lack of impact function.
Manufacturing
Making blades from high-carbon steels protects axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature changes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening; during operation it is not damaged by the appearance of nicks and scratches. A stamp is placed on the head indicating the grade of metal. Forged products are more durable and heavier; preference should be given to this type of metal processing.
According to the width of the cutting part, the tools are:
- wide;
- average;
- narrow.
If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly becomes dull. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the blow falls on the edge of the metal; with this method, the central part is sharpened at a sharper angle than the edges.
The blades are either straight or rounded. The latter, due to the reduction in area and increased pressure on the contact points, acquire better cutting qualities.
Axes with a plastic shaft are as strong as wooden ones, but lighter. Sometimes wooden axes are made with a rubberized handle to absorb shock and protect the wrist.
Choosing the right tool
- the optimal length of the ax is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
- the ax handle must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.
If you choose a short handle, you will have to make too large an amplitude of movement in order to increase the force of the blow, and the recoil into the hand will also increase. This will prevent long and productive work with the tool.
If it is expected Full time job with a tool, you should give preference to an expensive, high-quality product. If you only get the job occasionally, buy a cheaper option. A product from one manufacturer may have large price differences depending on its sale on the market or in a large store.
Features of the design of taiga axes
Taiga axes are truly universal. The tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the grain, and building huts. They are highly durable and serve long years. They are used by rangers, commercial hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.
The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of its handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows you to make a wide swing to increase the impact force when chopping. The head blade does not have an upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. Cutting the top toe reduces the weight of the tool and strengthens it top part heads when operating at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The blade shape is rounded to allow for various forestry tasks. The head has a beard for strength.
A wedge or steel nail is inserted into the eye, or seat, to strengthen the fastener. The fungus - a place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip. The ax head can easily replace a hammer if necessary.
When choosing a taiga instrument, three rules must be followed. The tool must be selected individually according to the man’s height, taking into account frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the optimal weight of the tool is selected from the point of view of carrying the product and performing the impact function.
DIY taiga masterpiece
Let's do it taiga ax from the old with your own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is cleaned of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into nicks and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in a vinegar bath, then cleaned with sandpaper.
The next step is to adjust the tool head to fit the taiga specimen using a grinder.
For the ax handle, choose a tree with hard wood. Beech is best suited for this role. To prevent dampness, the handle on which the head is mounted is soaked in oil in several stages. It is recommended to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, or linseed oil.
But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, during which some bonds in the substance break down and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product becomes dry, rough to the touch and leaves no marks on your hands.
The product receives additional strength and water resistance. The wood fibers should run along the handle; manufacturers sometimes mess around and paint over the product if the grains are located at an angle. The strength of the ax handle in such a product is reduced.
The metal part is placed on the butt of the handle so that the ax extends one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the seating depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse ones.
To prevent the ax handle from cracking, the cuts are drilled out. Now wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges will be required - and the structure is reassembled.
For strength, they are held together with epoxy resin, reinforced with bandages to enhance the tightness of the fit. Beech wedges are driven in, securely securing the seat. All excess is cut off and the product is carefully polished. Over time, the epoxy becomes unusable; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.
The final touch is sharpening the blade.
To avoid accidental injury, you can sew protective case to the metal part.
Correct sharpening of the tool
The product can be sharpened manually and mechanically. Each has its own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the “sharpener”.
At manual When sharpening, a template is prepared from tin, the sharpening angle is selected, the desired shape is cut out and applied to the ax blade. A sharpening line is marked on the blade of the head with a marker. The action is performed by moving away from oneself; the process is labor-intensive and exhausting. Performed in several steps using grinding wheels made of sandstone with grains of different sizes.
At mechanical When sharpening an ax, experts do not recommend rushing; they do not recommend working with a grinder; you should choose low speed processing. For the desired sharpening angle, finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is coated with it and the product is ground.
After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithol, grease, machine or waste oil. It is best to keep the instrument in a dry place.
Compliance with safety regulations
- do not leave the ax on the ground so that the tool does not rust and the ax handle does not become damp;
- the head of the product should not dangle on the handle;
- when cutting logs, place wood underneath so as not to damage the blade on stone or metal;
- Make sure you have enough space to swing the ax freely.
An ax is one of the tools you need to have on the farm. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but if you want to have a reliable and a convenient thing, it is better to make the tool yourself. The article will talk about how to make an ax handle at home with your own with skillful hands and install the metal blade correctly.
An ax handle is the handle of a working tool. Labor productivity completely depends on how easy it is to work with it. Therefore, a regular straight stick will not work in this case. A real ax handle is a curved beam with an oval cross-section and straight sections. The tail part should be widened and bent downwards. Only with this option the hand of the person performing the work will be able to reliably hold the tool without experiencing fatigue for a long time.
The following types of wood are best suited for making an ax:
- maple;
- birch;
- acacia;
- ash.
Wood should be harvested in the fall. Birch is perfect for carpentry tools, while maple is more often used for camping tools. Its impact strength is less than that of birch. Ideal option Ash is considered to be very durable and rarely changes shape. It is better to make an ax handle from a section of wood located near the root, and the workpiece should be 15 cm wider and longer than the future product.
Attention! Before the prepared beams are used to make an ax handle, they must be dried in a dry place for at least a year, dark place, for example, in the attic. This is necessary in order to finished form the handle did not dry out and did not start to dangle in the eyelet.
Fresh wood can only be used if the ax handle breaks, as a temporary option that needs to be replaced quickly.
How to make an ax handle
In order to make an ax handle you will need:
- wooden blank;
- hacksaw;
- chisel;
- pencil;
- file;
- hammer.
The manufacturing process itself takes place in the following order:
Attention! You need to make the ax handle so that the cross-section is oval. In this case, it will be possible to hold it without particularly straining your hand and make very accurate blows.
Impregnation of the ax handle and ax attachment
The upper part of the finished handle must be impregnated with a water-repellent composition. There are two options:
- drying oil;
- linseed oil;
- ski resin.
Lubricate the wood with the chosen product and leave it until it dries. The treatment is repeated several more times until the fat is absorbed. Ski resin can penetrate deeper layers of the workpiece, but it is difficult to find in stores. Therefore, the first two options are often used.
Advice. You can add a bright dye to the impregnation agent. So ready-made tool It will be difficult to lose.
The ax attachment to the handle is done as follows:
Watching videos and photographs will help you better understand the manufacturing technique. Making an ax handle with your own hands is more difficult than buying it ready-made. However, if you have the desire and some skills, it is quite possible to get a high-quality tool.
How to make an ax handle: video