For successful cultivation Calibrachoa needs a lot of light and warmth. Especially good for this plant sunny balconies or terraces facing south or southeast. However, without the drying heat! If the midday sun is too aggressive, Calibrachoa may burn - shade it during these hours.
The plant also does not tolerate gusty winds, which can easily ruffle and even tear stems and flowers.
Open balconies on the upper floors of high-rise buildings are not the best place for Calibrachoa. It is better to grow this miracle in a place protected from the wind.
Calibrachoa is planted in hanging baskets, balcony boxes, and tall flowerpots. 1 plant requires at least 2-3 liters of soil. The soil should be light and loose, preferably with a large amount of raising agents. The soil reaction is neutral or slightly acidic.
Growing Calibrachoa in hanging planters
Calibrachoa is a hanging plant that shows itself in all its glory in hanging flowerpots, tall flowerpots and balcony boxes.
Hydrogel is not added to the soil. This plant requires much less moist soil than petunia. On the contrary, constant moisture is unacceptable.
Calibrachoa is very easy to overwater, causing the tender roots to quickly rot and the plant to die. Conclusion: you need to water it less often than petunia. But calibrachoa simply loves regular spraying! On particularly hot days, do not skimp on moisture and spray the plant 3-4 times a day (only when the sun does not shine directly on the bushes).
Throughout the growing season, caring for calibrachoa involves intensive “feeding”. Be sure to fertilize every week. During the seedling period, use nitrogen-based compositions, and during budding and flowering - with high content phosphorus (especially!) and potassium.
In principle, you need to feed calibrachoa in the same way as you fertilize petunia.
To maintain constant flowering and the appearance of the bushes, faded flowers are torn off so that they do not set seeds.
In mid-summer, when calibrachoa flowering wanes, you can cut the stems to half their length. This will be an excellent stimulation for better branching of the plant and the formation of young flower buds in large quantities.
Caring for Calibrachoa
The flowers of this plant are very delicate, and raindrops on impact quickly tear the petals, which turns a well-groomed plant into a sloppy one in an instant;
The volume and shape of the pot or container plays a role important role in growing calibrachoa, as the roots of the flower grow wider. The optimal solution is to choose low dishes with a volume of 5 liters;
Plant in each pot or container immediately a large number of seedlings - about 70 young plants per square meter. m. For example, a pot with a top diameter of 30 cm will require up to 7 seedlings;
During the summer, calibrachoa needs feeding, since abundant flowering requires a significant amount of nutrients. For these purposes, complex mineral fertilizers, which are easy to purchase at flower shops or specialized departments of supermarkets;
Calibrachoa likes frequent watering and spraying of leaves in dry, hot weather (spray in the morning or evening);
Reproduction occurs by cuttings, which is another feature of calibrachoa that is distinctive from petunia.
Soil: composition and fertilizer
When selecting soil, you should pay attention only to fertility. The flower prefers loamy or sandy loam soils, but other humus-rich substrates are also suitable. The soil composition should include peat, humus, turf soil and sand. The soil should be light, loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. The volume of the pot for calibrachoa must be at least three liters for the plant to feel comfortable. Be sure to place drainage in the form of expanded clay or small pebbles at the bottom of the pot. Make sure that in case of overflow, moisture quickly drains from the soil into the tray of the pot.
Important! Calibrachoa reacts negatively to the application of fresh manure, so if you want to enrich the soil before planting, use humus or complex fertilizer.
How to care for Calibrachoa to achieve abundant flowering
Every housewife wants to see her plant healthy and blooming. At the same time, a large number of colors and long flowering bring extraordinary pleasure. Just a few tricks and simple actions will allow you to get a blooming “waterfall” on the balcony.
Watering and spraying plants
Immediately draw a wide line between watering and spraying, since a moisture-sensitive flower simply loves humidified air. If the room is hot and stuffy, then calibrachoa should be sprayed 3-4 times a day. The main thing is not to spray the root area to protect the flower from rotting. The plant should be watered so that the soil is slightly moist. Calibrachoa will accept dry soil much better than waterlogged soil.
Important! Watering and spraying should be carried out when the sun's rays do not reach the plant.
Feeding the flower
Calibrachoa loves fertilizing, which must be applied regularly to achieve good flowering. Complex fertilizers should contain phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Fertilizers must be applied at least once a week. During the planting period, it is necessary to give calibrachoa more nitrogen, but during flowering, add more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
Important! If the plant is stunted in growth, it should be fed with a stimulant.
If you have difficulties choosing the right mineral fertilizer, take the complex that is used for petunias, since in terms of feeding, plants like the same things.
Pruning and shaping the bush
The spreading flower needs to be pruned from time to time to maintain its aesthetic appearance and rid the plant of diseased shoots. The first pruning is carried out immediately after flowering. As soon as the first flowers begin to fade, cut them off to give the plant additional strength to lay the next buds. Subsequent pruning and pinching is done in mid-summer: all shoots are shortened by half in order to achieve greater branching of the plant. Also remove diseased or dead shoots and leaves. Don't be afraid to cut a little more, the plant won't suffer from it. Buds will begin to appear en masse on the pruned shoots, which will further contribute to abundant flowering.
Reproduction of Calibrachoa
Calibrachoa is propagated using rooted cuttings, that is, vegetatively. This does not mean that the plant does not set seeds - it does so willingly, but... The problem is that calibrachoa from seeds often grows not like its “parents”.
In other words, in its development it “slides down” to the “wild” variants of calibrachoa, from which the hybrid mother plants were created.
Calibrachoa grown from seeds may bloom sparsely, and the flowers may be a completely different color, smaller in size, etc. Although, you may be lucky - calibrachoa from seeds will repeat the mother plant, but this will most likely be an exception to the rule.
For cuttings at the end of summer or early autumn, cut the apical cuttings 4-5 cm long from the mother plant. Tear off the lower leaves and plant the bare part of the stem in light, moist soil.
In order for the Calibrachoa cuttings to take root, they are placed in a “greenhouse”. The easiest way is to cover the planted cuttings with a plastic cup and open it slightly every day for a few minutes for ventilation.
In conditions of high humidity in the greenhouse, Calibrachoa cuttings quickly take root. After this, the “greenhouse” can be removed and the cuttings can be cared for as for ordinary indoor plants. They are completely unpretentious and survive the winter without loss. In the spring, the apical cuttings are cut a second time from the grown bushes and rooted again - from them flowering calibrachoas are grown.
For calibrachoa propagation, top cuttings with a length of at least 7 cm are suitable. All leaves from the cutting are removed and only the top two are left.
Then the blanks are treated with rooting preparations and planted in a fairly light substrate. The cuttings should be planted fairly close to each other. The distance should be about 2 cm. Then the boxes with seedlings are covered with glass or transparent film. The temperature should be constant, approximately 20°C. The room where calibrachoa will be grown must be sufficiently light and well ventilated.
The cuttings should be periodically sprayed with water, but the soil should not be too wet. After two weeks, you can plant the cuttings in separate containers. There is no need to cover the seedlings with glass anymore.
At the end, pinch off the tops and leave the seedlings for a month and a half. The tops are pinched to achieve decorative qualities bush and improving its bushiness. After this, you can plant the seedlings in a permanent place.
Caring for rooted Calibrachoa cuttings
Rooted calibrachoa cuttings in winter need to be cared for in the same way as ordinary indoor flowers.
Likewise, at home, preserving the mother plant will be much more difficult. It will have to be kept in cool and humid conditions, ideally on a glazed, bright balcony where the temperature does not drop below 2-3°C. If you manage to preserve calibrachoa in the winter, then in the spring, again, cut cuttings from it and root it.
For better rooting, cuttings are treated by special means(rooters), and planted from January to March in a mixture of sand and perlite in a greenhouse at a temperature of +22-24°C.
Possible difficulties when growing Calibrachoa
Reducing the number of colors
Reasons: 1) insufficient lighting, 2) lack of nutrients, 3) fading buds are not removed, 4) the roots of the plant are cramped in a small pot.
Flowers and leaves of the plant droop and wither
Reasons: 1) insufficient watering, 2) short-term drying out of the earthen coma.
Wintering Calibrachoa
The mother plant is sent for the winter, from which cuttings are taken in early spring. During the dormant period, the plant needs increased humidity, a decrease in temperature to +15-18°C and cessation of fertilizing. At this time, the shoots become bare and the plant loses its decorative effect.
Growing calibrachoa is a simple procedure that even a child can handle. This plant has an attractive appearance. It can often be found on the balconies of high-rise buildings as decoration. Flowers planted in pots form green balls with bright and beautiful buds. What calibrachoa is and how to care for it can be viewed in this article.
General information about the plant
Calibrachoa is a large and lush bush consisting of many flowers and stems that intertwine to form a ball. The size of the opened bud is about 3 cm in diameter. Initially the favorite of millions was violet shade. Now interest in culture is only growing. New and new colors are being introduced and more and more people want to acquire such decoration.
Therefore you can find:
- hot pink;
- red;
- orange;
- peach;
- blue;
- yellow;
- brown and other tones.
Calibrachoa care is easy. To make a flower beautiful, it is enough to follow some rules.
Until the 90s, calibrachoa was called petunia. Scientists believed that this different types the same flower. However, according to studies, it has been proven that calibrachoa differs from petunia even in DNA.
Calibrachoa is called ampelous due to the fact that it can be planted in hanging pots. 
This plant falls out of the pot in a long shoot. The flower itself is very simple, resembling a bell in appearance. But, interestingly, the neck of the bud always differs in shade from the petals - such a feature of calibrachoa. Often the flowers of the plant are simple in shape, but recently double species have been found that are somewhat larger in size than ordinary ones. There will be fewer of them on the bush than simple ones. But despite this, calibrachoa does not cease to lose its attractiveness.
Growing calibrachoa and care in open ground
Location. The plant feels great not only in pots, but also in open ground. Required condition Successful flower growing is the presence of plenty of light. The culture loves the sun and is drawn to it, but intense heat has a detrimental effect on the bush.
A good option for growing a flower is a terrace.
Calibrachoa should be planted only in those areas that are bathed in sunlight in the morning and shaded during the day. It is better not to keep the flower completely in the shade. Lack of sun can lead to dull buds and a short flowering period.
Irrigation. The plant loves systematic watering. If you irrigate the soil correctly, then the bush will have a rich shade and bloom constantly. Only well-settled water should be used. If possible, it is better to collect rainwater.
Proper cultivation and care of calibrachoa includes protecting the plant from strong and gusty winds. A lot depends on compliance with this condition. If you plant a bush in a windless place, then the plant will delight you with its unique inflorescences all summer until the autumn cold.
Features of growing at home
Calibrachoa is grown in hanging boxes and baskets. For full growth, take 2-3 kg of soil per flower. The bush must be provided with loose and light soil, preferably slightly acidic or neutral. 
Watering should be constant, but moderate. It is very easy to flood a flower and then it will disappear. You can spray the flower with water: the plant likes such activities and has a beneficial effect on its growth and reproduction.
If you grow calibrachoa on a balcony, then you need to choose the south or southeast side. During the solar peak, the flower must be protected, otherwise it may dry out. Not best place for breeding calibrachoa there is a balcony on the top floor, which is constantly exposed to the sun and where the wind blows. In this case, it is recommended to bring the flowerpot indoors at least at lunchtime.
During the growing season, the flower should be actively fed so that as many seeds as possible ripen. It is best to choose ones that contain phosphorus and potassium, and add them once a week.
In order to maintain the attractiveness of calibrachoa in winter, you should install fluorescent lamps near the flowerpot. The devices must be kept on almost constantly over the flower. Calibrachoa is a rather delicate and fragile flower. If something heavy gets on the leaves or buds, they may die. First of all, this concerns rain. Therefore, if flowers grow on an open balcony, you can make a canopy or canopy for them.
Pinching a flower and wintering it
Many people do not know how to properly pinch calibrachoa and why this procedure is needed. This event is intended to make the bush more voluminous and spreading. Pinching involves tearing off the top cuttings and shoots of the flower. This way the plant will grow wider rather than higher. You can tear off unnecessary shoots either with your hands or with the help of nail scissors. The main thing at this moment is to be careful and not cut off too much. If everything is done correctly, then the calibrachoa will be a short time will become lush, and the shoots will descend beautiful waterfall, forming an excellent decoration for your veranda.
Experts note that every year it is necessary to change almost all the soil in pots to ensure full growth and maturation of flowers. This is due to the fact that very few nutrients remain in the old soil.
Most of popular varieties Calibrachoa are annuals. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about their wintering. However, experienced gardeners They know that some species can be saved and next year they will again delight you with their usual colors. To ensure proper wintering of calibrachoa, the pot with the bush that has finished flowering is placed in a dark place and is practically not watered or fertilized. You can spray lightly. 
Thus, the plant is preserved. In the spring you need to get it out and start caring for it in the same way as last year. It is important to provide the flower with a sufficient amount of daylight or artificial light, and then everything will go according to plan.
The main methods of propagation of calibrachoa
Calibrachoa cuttings. At the end of August, you need to cut off several tops of the mother plant. Their length should be up to 5 cm. The bottom of the cuttings should be freed from leaves, and then planted in the ground. In order for the plant to grow as quickly as possible, you will need to provide it with moist soil and create greenhouse conditions for a while. The easiest way to do this is to cover the stalk with it and open it slightly once a day for a while to planting material breathed. When the plant takes root (usually after 2 weeks), you can remove the plastic and carry out the same care as for an adult bush.
Propagation of Calibrachoa using seedlings. You can also get a new plant using grains. In this case, seedlings are first grown, and only then the finished seedlings are transplanted into soil or pots. To keep the seedlings healthy, you need to ensure sufficient soil moisture. For these purposes, you can plant the seedlings in a box, the top of which is covered with film. This will create a greenhouse effect and the flowers will grow much faster.
Preparing and planting seeds
Experts say that if you collect seeds and plant them in a pot, you will not always be able to grow beautiful flower. Often, mature bushes produce simple buds that look like wild calibrachoa. The plant may not bloom as numerous as its ancestor and have a different shade. Of course, there are exceptions to the rules: then the bush turns out to be the same size, volume and shade as the mother one.
If you decide to try growing calibrachoa from seeds at home, then be patient. Initially, you need to keep the planting material in liquid for 24 hours, and then dry the grains with a paper napkin. Capacity to use small size. 
Before planting calibrachoa, compost and peat must be added to the ground in advance, and before planting seeds it must be saturated with mineral fertilizers. You will need to wait quite a long time for germination, and not all seeds will bear fruit. To stimulate growth, you can use special fertilizers, as well as a weak solution of potassium permanganate. In addition, before planting the seedlings in a pot or soil, you need to feed the crop several times along with watering.
After the appearance of two full-fledged leaves, picking should be done. This is an important event that requires care.
A drainage layer should be placed at the bottom of the flowerpot. It may consist of pebbles or other small stones. Next you need to pour sand, which will loosen the soil, and only then add the main earth mixture. After planting seedlings in pots, you need to select the optimal fertilizer. After all, the abundance of flowering depends on it.
Diseases and pests
Despite the fact that ampelous calibrachoa is often grown at home, it is still often attacked by pests.
The most common are:
- thrips;
- whitefly
In order for the plant to bloom all summer, you should pick off the wilted bells.
In addition to pests, ampelous calibrachoa is susceptible to some diseases. The most common is blackleg - the plant turns black and dies. This is a fungus that appears in conditions of excessive moisture. If you notice blackening of the plant, take action immediately - treat it with medicine.
Another common calibrachoa disease is powdery mildew. In this case, a white coating is observed on the plates. The reason for this is also excess moisture and sudden temperature changes.
The flower is also affected by root rot due to too wet soil. You can save the plant by urgently replanting it in a drier place.
If the bush is affected by chlorosis, small amounts of flowering are observed. This disease occurs when very hard water is used for irrigation, as well as in case of iron deficiency. By eliminating this, you will return the plant to its former attractiveness.
Calibrachoa with other plants
In addition to decorating beds, verandas and balconies, calibrachoa is widely used in landscape design. Moreover we're talking about not only about hanging species, but also about low-growing varieties. The combinations can be very diverse - from planting a flower on hills along with mountain plants to filling street vases.
The flower gets along well with both climbing and flowering representatives of the flora. Gardeners very often practice planting entire flower beds of this plant. In order to achieve good result You should choose several contrasting shades. This way the flowerbed will be bright, will always attract attention, and if you make it geometric shape, then the created beauty will not escape the eye.
Knowing when to plant calibrachoa and how to care for it, you can grow one of the most beautiful and popular flowers of our time. Regular watering, timely feeding, providing light, warmth, proper planting and removal of cuttings - all this only contributes to the appearance of beauty on your window and in your life. A bright and original bush will give a lot of aesthetic pleasure and decorate any corner of the site or home. Choose the color of buds you like, or plant several various shades, and you will certainly get the desired result.
Everything is in your hands to create beauty around you!
Amazingly beautiful plant - video
Calibrachoa, a flower that relatively recently began to appear in our flower beds, nevertheless managed to fall in love with many gardeners and flower growers for its colorful blooms. We assure you that growing and caring for calibrachoa will be a pleasure for you. You can learn all the nuances that need to be taken into account from this article. And you can easily grow this amazing flower on your own in your flowerbed or balcony.
Preparing to plant a house
Calibrachoa is so similar to petunia, but it is different flowers, and their care varies. At home, this plant is grown in flower pots: both on the balcony and in the apartment.
Selecting a location
You need to choose a place to place a flower pot in a well-lit room. Calibrachoa loves light very much, but does not tolerate drafts. Therefore, if this plant is planted in flowerpots, hanging boxes, or flower pots, then you need to place and hang them in places where there are no drafts - where the flower will be reliably protected from the wind. If the flower grows in hanging boxes or pots on a balcony without a roof, then during heavy rain you will need to bring the pot into the room or under a canopy.
Choosing a pot and preparing the soil mixture
There is a great variety of shapes and materials on sale. flower pots, by wisely choosing and alternating them, you can create beautiful mini-gardens with calibrachoas of different colors.
When choosing a pot for a future plant, you need to take into account that one calibrachoa bush needs 3-5 liters of soil. Most often, gardeners use containers and flowerpots with a volume of five and seven liters. A pot that is too large and “potbellied” is not needed; the plant’s root system simply will not be able to master it. But you need to remember that the smaller the dishes, the smaller the calibrachoa bush will grow.
The flower pot must be chosen taking into account where it will be located. If you need a container for open balcony, then it is better to give preference to plastic pots and boxes. The moisture in them lasts longer in hot weather and does not evaporate through the walls. At the same time, the soil warms up well, and this has a very positive effect on the growth of the root system.
“If a plant in a pot is placed in direct sunlight, the soil will overheat, which will negatively affect the growth of the flower and cause burns on the leaves. Therefore, for protection, you need to place the flower pot in a wider pot. At the same time, the circulation volume will increase significantly, which will avoid overheating of the earth.”
Another advantage of plastic pots is that they are lightweight and practical - more flowers can fit on the windowsill. The plant prefers loose and fertile soil. To improve the quality of planting soil, vermiculite is added. You can use organic fertilizers such as compost and humus.
Fresh manure is not added when planting, because the flower will get sick and die - the plant does not like acidic soils. These need to be deoxidized; for this, fluff lime or dolomite flour is used. Also, for good growth and flowering, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil: superphosphate and phosphorus-potassium.
Gardening stores sell special soil for flower crops. Remember, purchased soil must be loose and contain peat, perlite and vermiculite. For prevention, planting material is treated with a fungicide solution, for example, in Fitosporin. It prevents the appearance of fungal diseases of the flower. Flowerpots and flowerpots must have drainage. It will provide outflow excess water from the roots and will not allow them to rot in case of overwatering.
Advice: “It’s easy to overwater Calibrachoa when watering, thereby provoking rotting of the roots due to excessive dampness of the soil, so you can’t do without drainage in pots.”
For drainage, use small pebbles or buy ready-made drainage in the store. It is placed on the bottom of the pot in a layer of 3 cm, covered with sand on top and only then - required quantity prepared soil.
Landing dates
Calibrachoa seeds are sown around the same period as petunia. Optimal time for sowing - February or early March. Cuttings can be planted all spring.
If you grow seedlings from seeds, you must constantly spray the soil, preventing it from becoming covered with a dry crust. To reduce evaporation, a film is placed over the boxes with planted seeds.
When the daytime temperature returns to normal and reaches 22°C, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place in the garden or pots and boxes are taken out to the balcony.
Selection and preparation of planting material
To increase the number of seedlings, various germination-stimulating drugs are used. To do this, the seeds are soaked for 24 hours and then dried. paper towel. But this option does not guarantee one hundred percent germination.
Planting methods and techniques
Prepared seeds are planted to a depth of half a centimeter in moist soil. Then the container is covered with glass or film until shoots appear, not forgetting to spray the crops twice a day. Bring pots with planted seeds into dark place it is impossible, otherwise calibrachoa seedlings may not wait. The plant loves the sun and grows only in the light. But direct rays are also undesirable.
Water the emerging seedlings only with settled warm water. The most convenient way to grow the crop is by cuttings. You will have to tinker more with the seeds. Adult plants look most interesting in hanging pots and flowerpots - after all, the length of the stems of an adult calibrachoa reaches one and a half meters. Therefore this garden flower used for vertical gardening loggias and estates.
Advice: “The plant does not like too much frequent watering and easily tolerates the driest summer periods. This is another reason to grow this beautiful and delicate flower.”
Caring for Calibrachoa at home
Basic care for any calibrachoa variety consists of five points.
- Good lighting.
- Properly prepared soil.
- Sufficient feeding.
- Protection from drafts.
- Sufficient, but not excessive watering.
It doesn’t matter where exactly this flower is grown: on a loggia, in an apartment or in open ground, the main thing is that the place is well lit. The second important factor is watering the plant. If it is regular and sufficient, then the flower can easily cope with any heat. But in a drought it burns bright light may harm the flower. Shaded places are completely contraindicated for Calibrachoa. With a lack of light, a plant stops blooming and loses its bright color. green color leaves and begins to wither, and may even die. Wind protection is also an important component of care. The plant must be protected from drafts and gusts of wind.
In addition, additional light lamps are installed at home to support necessary conditions illumination and temperature conditions.
Lighting, temperature and humidity
Temperature upon landing outdoors must be at least 20°C. The plant is afraid of intense heat, that is, the sun is definitely not suitable for the flower. The best option there will be a place for planting where the sun's rays warm the earth equally: both in the morning and in the evening.
Advice: “You cannot leave the flower outdoors at temperatures below 12°C.”
Moderate or slightly increased air humidity is suitable for calibrachoa. If the heat lasts too long, then containers with water are placed around the flower to humidify the air. In winter, by the way, too.
Top dressing
Fertilizing is carried out once every two weeks, no more often, and it is better to use complex fertilizers, then you won’t have to guess which microelements calibrachoa is missing. Spraying is combined with foliar fertilizer, most often a solution is used for this succinic acid. Thanks to this, the plant blooms vigorously and for a long time.
Watering
In the summer heat, spraying is carried out at least twice a day. For normal height For flowering and development, the flower needs slightly moist soil. But it’s worth remembering that you shouldn’t fill it with water. In addition, this fragile plant does not tolerate heavy rains, which, if prolonged, can contribute to the complete cessation of calibrachoa flowering.
Pinching
To improve the flowering of an adult plant, it is necessary to pinch the calibrachoa above the fifth leaf - this will stimulate the appearance of side shoots. Then the plant will for a long time delight the owner with delicate and bright inflorescences. You can re-pinch after 14 days, but it is not necessary.
Pruning calibrachoa
Bushes are formed to preserve a long period of decorativeness and beauty of the flower, as well as the duration of flowering. To do this, prune already withered inflorescences. This way the plant will not waste energy on the seed and will use all its vitality for lush flowering.
Regular pinching and pruning of the long stems of the plant will ensure that the bushes bloom all summer.
Overwintering Calibrachoa
Overwintering of the perennial hummingbird takes place indoors. If it is not possible to place the flower away from the radiator, cover it. After two weeks of Calibrachoa’s stay in the apartment, its stems are shortened by half and watering is reduced, and no fertilizing is used. Some gardeners replace watering with abundant spraying. From cut shoots you can get cuttings for new bushes, but only if the new plants are additionally illuminated. In this way, calibrachoa can be preserved in winter and new plants can be obtained.
Susceptibility to diseases and pests
During the growing season, this plant in the garden runs the risk of attracting pests or getting sick. Most often, damage to calibrachoa is caused by aphids, spider mite, thrips and whitefly. The plant is also threatened fungal diseases, For example:
- "blackleg";
- powdery mildew;
- root rot.
When you get sick, the first thing to do is reduce watering. Plantings are treated with any fungicide. And to get rid of chlorosis, use fertilizers and fertilizers that contain iron.
Reproduction methods
Calibrachoa is propagated by cuttings and seeds. More often, gardeners use the first method, it is less labor-intensive. Poor seed germination also encourages this.
Propagation of calibrachoa by cuttings
Propagation of calibrachoa by cuttings does not require special skills. Cuttings are taken from an adult bush. They should have at least 4-5 leaves. The leaves on the cuttings are torn off, leaving only the top two. For planting, use light soil; plant cuttings a third of their length into the ground. The distance between the cuttings should be at least two centimeters. Rooting of cuttings takes at least two weeks.
Seed propagation of Calibrachoa
They begin to sow seeds for seedlings early, at the end of February. When sowing the seeds you need to be careful; for this flower they are small and easy to scatter. The loosened soil is moistened and the seeds are scattered over the surface, lightly pressing them. Spray the top with water and cover with film or glass. In cold climates, it is difficult to get seedlings from the windowsill; to do this, place a lamp above the box with seedlings. You can attach a description of the planted variety to the box so you don’t forget.
Seedlings begin to sprout after a month and a half, removing weak and thin shoots. Do not spare them: from weak sprouts of strong flowers with good flowering don't get it.
Popular Calibrachoa varieties
Breeders have developed many different varietal series of calibrachoa. The varieties differ from each other in the shape and color of the flowers. There are ordinary inflorescences, and there is also double calibrachoa. All characteristic differences depend on the variety, the flowers of the largest species vary in diameter from 3.5 to 4 cm.
Varietal series of Calibrachoa “Kablum”
This varietal species was the very first to appear in our area. Low bushes, no more than 25-30 cm, with abundant flowering. The color range of inflorescences in this series is varied: white, blue, yellow, dark pink.
Calibrachoa varietal series Super Bells
The series includes eight varieties. Flowers are up to 3.5 cm in diameter, the flower grows up to one meter. The color of the inflorescences varies, ranging from yellow to dark burgundy. The variety is distinguished by abundant flowering. It is also worth noting that this series has high resistance to diseases of the root system. This species is also resistant to bad weather conditions such as rain and hail. Flowers are planted in hanging flowerpots, balcony boxes and pots; flowers can be used both in composition plantings and separately.
Calibrachoa varietal series “million bells”
This is one of the most common series. During flowering, it is so densely covered with flowers that sometimes the leaves are almost invisible. That's why this series received such an unusual, but telling name. Mature bushes reach a height of up to one and a half meters. The series includes 18 varieties of different colors. As you can see, growing and caring for calibrachoa is simple. And observing preventive measures, you will ensure that the perennial will delight you with lush and long-lasting flowering for more than one year.
Propagation of calibrachoa by cuttings is the most convenient and effective way to grow this ornamental crop. Sowing seeds and caring for seedlings is a more labor-intensive process that can present an unpleasant surprise at any moment. Let's consider both options for propagating a herbaceous perennial, pay attention to possible mistakes and ways to solve typical situations.
How to get seedlings
Calibrachoa and petunia bushes differ in the number of chromosomes. Externally, the difference manifests itself in certain morphological characteristics:
- in lignification of the stem;
- in crushing flowers;
- ability of seeds to ripen.
Gardeners have long noticed that after the bells have faded there is no need to pick the dried buds, that is, to purposefully maintain the decorative effect of the perennial. Calibrachoa does not form seed pods. This property helps the plant direct energy exclusively to setting new buds. Hence the enchantingly abundant flowering.
Ripe calibrachoa seeds are rare. However, their presence cannot be completely ruled out.
Sometimes gardeners discover the consequences of self-seeding in pots with “overwintered” mother plants - tiny bushes. After transplanting into separate pots and complex fertilizing, young calibrachoas bloom, causing bewilderment to the gardener - the children do not at all look like the parent bush.
There is only one conclusion. If you want to experiment in this direction, personally germinate several pills with seeds, it is better to turn to products from trusted manufacturers. High-quality seed material will allow you to grow seedlings of a specific variety or a certain color at home - what is indicated on the package. Collecting seed pods yourself can end in disappointment. Calibrachoa has sterile flowers.
And finally, when planning to grow a perennial from seeds, you should be prepared for the following:
- the fragile seedlings of the plant are much more capricious than those of petunia;
- young shoots grow very, very slowly;
- The slightest mistake in watering and lighting can destroy the seedlings.
If these characteristics do not frighten the gardener, you can begin organizing a greenhouse.
Time
The optimal time for sowing calibrachoa seedlings is the end of January or the first ten days of February. Unlike petunia, this plant develops extremely slowly. Seeds begin to hatch 1-3 weeks after they are all created necessary conditions for germination. In early spring (if necessary), seedlings are planted in separate containers.
The soil
For calibrachoa, light, breathable soil is important. You can use a purchased substrate diluted with vermiculite, hydrogel or coconut fibers (50x50), or you can stock up on peat tablets.
Calibrachoa seedlings on peat tablets in a plastic greenhouse Both options meet the plant's soil requirements:
- ease;
- humidity;
- breathability.
Planting and organizing a greenhouse
How to grow a perennial from seeds? The step-by-step algorithm of actions is as follows. The peat tablet is soaked for 20 minutes in clean water, then squeeze lightly. Some gardeners use boiling water for this purpose. The goal is to destroy potential soil pests.
Dragees with calibrachoa seeds are not deepened, but simply placed on the surface of the soaked tablet (or on top of the ground). Using a spray bottle, re-moisten the substrate.
River sand will help avoid rot on young calibrachoa shoots A greenhouse for seedlings can be a plastic cup with holes pierced in the bottom, as well as glass, plastic film, plastic containers from store-bought pastries and cakes.
In the first days, it is important to organize for calibrachoa seeds:
- additional lighting (up to 16 hours a day);
- moderate soil and air humidity;
- stable temperature within 21-25 ⁰С.
On a note! It is important to prevent condensation drops from accumulating above the film, glass or plastic. Regular ventilation of the greenhouse or the organization of additional openings will help to avoid this.
Thin calibrachoa shoots gradually begin to become accustomed to room air. The greenhouse is removed within 2-3 days. If necessary, seedlings with 2 leaves are planted in separate containers.
The video from “Garden, vegetable garden, do it yourself” will clearly, step by step, demonstrate the process of sowing pellets with seeds, and explain the importance of using river sand and organizing comfortable conditions for calibrachoa germination:
Cuttings
Many gardeners who are mastering Calibrachoa agricultural technology for the first time are interested in how to propagate rare varieties by cuttings. Whether there is a certain rules when they take root?
Top length. Root growth stimulants
Despite the existence of numerous step by step instructions, explaining the process of cutting calibrachoa, there is nothing complicated about this action. Surely the gardener has already shaped other species indoor plants: apthenia, lemons, etc.
Regular pruning of trunks and stems causes flowers to branch, bush, and throw out side shoots. In general, it gives perennials decorativeness and splendor.
How to take calibrachoa cuttings? To obtain planting material, you need to cut or pinch off the top of the mother plant with 4-5 internodes. Of these, the lower 2-3 rows of leaves are torn off, leaving the upper rosette intact. The length of the cutting is not a fundamentally important criterion and does not affect the effectiveness of rooting.
If desired, the seedlings are kept for 15 minutes in a solution of Epin (a growth stimulant drug). However, as practice shows, calibrachoa cuttings do not particularly need this procedure. Even without additional measures, they have a fairly high survival rate. Epin's solution is successfully replaced with Kornevin's powder, which is used to treat sections before planting in the substrate.
In general, all root formation stimulants (in this particular case) are more correctly called a means of self-soothing for the grower than an effective preparation for the propagation of calibrachoa.
On a note! Plants should be planted immediately after cutting. Any delay has a negative impact on the survival rate of the cuttings. After 1 hour, they lose 70% of their ability to root.
Abundant watering is the key to successful rooting of tops Landing. Soil requirements
The soil for rooting calibrachoa cuttings is standard: light, loose, with a pH value of 6.5-7.
The purchased substrate is diluted with perlite, vermiculite, coconut flakes, and hydrogel.
For convenience, use toothpicks and matches to make indentations in the soil, insert the cutting and carefully press the stem with soil. After this, the plant must be watered well so that water comes out of the drainage holes.
The container with the cuttings is placed in a greenhouse. Now it is important to ensure that the room with young calibrachoa is kept humid, light and warm.
On a note! The peculiarity of the perennial is that it does not take root in water and rots.
Common mistakes
Calibrachoa is a rather capricious plant, at least in comparison with petunia. When rooting cuttings, it is important to avoid:
- accumulation of condensate on the walls of the greenhouse;
- soil drying out;
- changes in air temperature;
- lack of light.
In the first case, the plant is often affected by rot. If young leaves touch wet soil or the ceiling of the greenhouse, the risk of losing calibrachoa doubles.
Direct rays of the sun combined with high humidity cause rotting of cuttings. Immature plants cannot cope with hot air, lose their elasticity, and die. It is important to take care of diffused light here.
Drying out of the soil, as well as its hypothermia due to temperature changes, damages root system calibrachoa so much so that it is often impossible to revive the sprout.
Lack of light weakens the plant's immunity. The cuttings stretch out, turn pale, and lose their decorative appearance.
But! Despite the above precautions, providing calibrachoa with comfortable growing conditions is not at all difficult. The perennial takes root well, forming a healthy mother plant by summer for subsequent cuttings.
On a note! If the grower managed to maintain the turgor of Calibrachoa leaves for a week, the operation of rooting the cuttings can be considered successful - the root formation process has begun.
Caring for young bushes
The normal rooting period for perennials is from 7 to 21 days (taking into account the use of drugs such as Epin, Kornevin). The appearance of new leaves, stretching of the stems, entwining of the peat tablet with roots indicates that it is time to transplant the calibrachoa into a new pot.
The container is drained, filled with soil, in which the plant is placed along with a peat tablet (old substrate).
If young plant the bud has thrown away, it is better to pinch it. Then the perennial will continue to grow its root system and will not waste energy on flowering.
Standard care for rooted calibrachoa cuttings:
- protection from drafts and returning spring frosts;
- moderate watering;
- gradual adaptation to sunlight (otherwise the plant will burn);
- maintaining air temperature within 25 degrees.
Practice shows that calibrachoa cuttings are prone to diseases of adult plants. So, chlorosis is a common occurrence for them. In this case, young bushes are treated with any preparations containing iron (for example, ferovit, cytovit). The solution should be weak and not exceed the dosage indicated in the annotation.
Feeding rooted cuttings is acceptable. Phosphorus-potassium and complex fertilizers are used in minimal concentrations.
Wintering
A pot with a mother plant can survive the winter and begin to grow in the spring. The optimal air temperature during the Calibrachoa dormant period should not exceed 10 degrees Celsius. Rare watering and absence of drafts are sufficient conditions for preserving the plant.
In February, the mother plant is cut to obtain young and lush bushes. The procedure can be repeated in mid-summer (using the side stems as a basis), in order to obtain healthy and strong “mother plants” in winter. In this way, the florist will fully provide for himself different varieties calibrachoa and eliminate the possibility of losing your favorite bushes.
How to properly cut a mother plant, says “Garden, vegetable garden, with your own hands”:
Cuttings of calibrachoa as a way of winter preservation of plants Category: Useful information Author: Molodtsova Tatyana In order for you to be pleased with the blooming clouds of calibrachoa grown by yourself every summer, you need to cut the plants twice a season. In July, cut and root cuttings from the mother plants, from which by the fall mother plants will grow, which will remain overwinter in a cool, bright room. In February-early March, from these mother plants you have grown, you need to cut and root cuttings, which by summer will become a decoration for your hanging flower pots. And then again - cuttings from these plants for winter storage, and in winter - cuttings again to grow new plants. You can sow seeds, but is it necessary... Recently, you can find calibrachoa seeds on sale. Of course, if you have an irresistible desire, you can try to grow these flowers from seeds. But does it make sense... The fact is that thin calibrachoa shoots are even more capricious than petunias. To get flowering specimens by summer, you need to sow the seeds in the first half of February. The seedlings grow for a long time, reluctantly, and slowly gain strength. Therefore, it is much easier to propagate the plant by cuttings. This is also more profitable in material terms - from one summer calibrachoa mother plant you can root quite a lot of cuttings. And in February-March, cut about the same number of cuttings from them. That is, the number of plants you produce grows exponentially. Vegetatively propagated calibrachoa varieties bloom more luxuriantly than those grown from seeds. The fact is that they have a “set” at the genetic level - not to set seeds. This means that the plant does not waste energy on this, devoting all of it to flowering. When faded flowers dry out, they simply fall off without leaving behind a seed pod, which means they do not spoil the appearance of the bush; it always looks neat. Cutting technology For both summer and winter cuttings, the same scheme should be followed. Using a sharp tool (so as not to pinch the plant’s vessels), you need to cut off the tops of the shoots so that there are 4-5 internodes on the cutting. In general, I also use the middle parts of the shoot as cuttings, the main thing is that the shoot is not woody. Such cuttings, although worse, still take root and give rise to plants. Preparing for calibrachoa cuttings Cutting calibrachoa cuttings Next, cut off the leaves. The bottom pair is a must; this internode will be immersed in the soil. We leave 1-2 upper pairs of leaves, the rest, which are lower at the base of the cutting, either cut off completely, or cut off leaf blade half. If you leave a lot of green mass, the cutting will be forced to evaporate moisture from the surface of all the leaves, spending a large amount of energy not on the formation of the root system, but on evaporation. But you can’t remove almost all the leaves - after all, the cuttings still feed on them. Find the “golden mean”. Apical calibrachoa cuttings Ready-made calibrachoa cuttings If the internodes are very short, then sometimes you have to “expose” 2-3 internodes from below in order to fix the cutting in the soil. Do not expect that every cutting you cut will take root, but the yield will still be large. You can plant cuttings in pre-soaked peat tablets and place the container with the plantings in a special greenhouse for plants or, for example, in a transparent cake box. But I do it my way. Before cuttings, I prepare planting containers - in 2-3 places I cut the bottoms in small, 100-gram, plastic cups. I pour light, permeable, slightly moistened soil there (if the soil is stored in a bag with small holes, then it does not dry out too much, retaining its natural humidity. I dip the lower parts of the cuttings in Kornevin powder and carefully immerse the bare internode into the soil. I press the soil in the cup to the base of the cutting. If you don’t “squeeze” the cuttings with soil well enough, rooting will be worse. I water the cuttings a little. But I don’t fill it! It is important to plant the cuttings first and then water them, because if the sequence is reversed, a crust will form on the surface of the washed damp soil, making it difficult for small roots to breathe. Planting calibrachoa cuttings After planting the cuttings, the soil needs to be slightly moistened. I put the cups in a lattice plastic box and cover them with film so that small air holes remain. If you “seal” the box tightly, the cuttings will simply rot. And if you open it too much, it will dry out. That is, I do not tuck all the edges of the film under the bottom. The film should fog up, but condensation should not accumulate in drops. After planting the cuttings, you need to set up a greenhouse for them. You don’t need to cover the rooted cuttings tightly with film. I choose the place for the boxes meticulously - the cuttings should not be exposed to direct sun (“cooks” instantly). This point is especially relevant during summer cuttings, when “the sun is still high.” Therefore, you have to cover the boxes with clean white bags. Place the cuttings on the floor of the greenhouse, in the hope of protecting them from sun rays, no need - they will rot quickly. Now, for 1.5-2 weeks, you will have to spray the cuttings daily from a spray bottle with a fine spray and ventilate the mini-cuttings. In hot weather you have to spray twice. Ideally, in the area of the leaf area of the cutting, the moisture should constantly remain in a state of fog, but the soil should not be waterlogged. You can add Zircon to the spraying water a couple of times. It not only encourages the plants, but also helps speed up the rooting process. The cuttings need to be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. The roots of the cuttings are clearly visible through the walls of the glass. You can easily determine whether your cuttings have taken root - the roots will be visible through the transparent walls of the glass. Then you should switch to moderate soil watering and gradually free the boxes from the film - for several days, let the film just lie on the edges of the box, do not tuck it, and then remove it altogether. Look at the lighting according to the situation - gradually accustom young plants to it. The crowns of shoots that have begun to grow should be pinched. You can then repeat this technique a couple more times to induce more tillering. When cutting cuttings in spring, this procedure should be given more attention to form a neat ball for summer. As the roots entwine the provided space, future queen cells should be transplanted into flowerpots with a diameter of 11-13 cm. You can hang them on the greenhouse guides. I plant in 0.5-liter glasses with holes in the bottom. It is preferable to use opaque pots so that light does not penetrate through the walls and does not contribute to the development of algae on the inner walls of the cup. Queen plants obtained from July cuttings should be kept in winter in a very bright room at a temperature of approximately +12 ... + 15 ° C, for example, in a heated greenhouse or veranda. If necessary, do additional lighting. And under no circumstances should you overfill it! Rooted calibrachoa cuttings Closer to spring, in February-March, everything will repeat itself all over again. During rooting, cuttings need a temperature of about +20°C, but after transplantation - no more than +15°C. And good lighting so that the shoots do not stretch, the plants are squat, and the leaves do not turn yellow. In April, if everything goes well, rooted and bushy plants can move to an unheated greenhouse. Calibrachoa Calita Supercal Terra Cotta A very important point when growing calibrachoa is to prevent the appearance of powdery mildew, which likes to appear at the most unexpected moment and develops very quickly. As a preventive measure against most fungal diseases (and bacterial ones too), I regularly spray and water calibrachoa queen cells with a solution of “harmless” biological preparations Alirin-B or Gamair. If you find powdery mildew too late, it is better to treat the plants with Topaz (according to the instructions). Very often, especially when kept in a greenhouse, queen cells are colonized by aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. Against aphids, I first use the biological preparation Biotlin. Usually it helps. Fitoverm uses “biological weapons” against the last two pests. And only when pests are not affected (usually in the summer, in the heat), I use Aktara or Alatar.