Pruning hydrangeas for the winter. Gardeners' recommendations for pruning various varieties of hydrangea in the autumn. Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas

Pruning and shaping hydrangeas

All types of hydrangeas are beautiful in their own way, but to preserve these plants in the garden long years For annual and abundant flowering, hydrangeas, like no other plants, require careful and, most importantly, correct pruning. The correctness of pruning determines how decorative the plant will be and how abundant the flowering will be. Pruning largely determines the size of the inflorescences. If not correct pruning large-leaved hydrangeas may not bloom at all. As a result of pruning, the bush is formed in accordance with the design intent.

The main pruning of hydrangeas is carried out in the spring. In autumn, most species do not need to be pruned; it is only important to cut off faded inflorescences, especially on paniculate hydrangeas, which reduces the breaking off of branches. Heat-loving hydrangeas are pruned before covering primarily to make work easier. Sometimes it is convenient to postpone part of the main pruning to autumn. The timing of spring pruning is not very important; it is usually carried out after the snow melts before the leaves begin to grow. I did not observe the leakage of juice noted by some authors during late pruning. Just as for other shrubs, after an unfavorable winter or freezing, pruning is best done at a more late dates, when the degree of damage to shoots and buds is better visible. It is better to rejuvenate old bushes with cutting out large branches at an earlier date. The formation of plants and their pruning are determined by the characteristics of the growth of shoots and the formation of flower buds on them. They vary greatly for different types hydrangeas, so we will consider these issues separately for the main species.

Pruning and shaping tree hydrangea

Tree hydrangea is a typical shrub with a high shoot-forming ability and a large number of zero shoots. Therefore, it is usually formed as a free-growing bush. After planting, the shoots are usually shortened for better growth of the bush. U tree hydrangea abundant flowering at the ends of shoots current year, and these annual shoots are formed along the entire length of the shoots of the previous year, as well as for more old wood and even on underground shoots (zero shoots). The strongest zero shoots can be flowering. Thanks to this, hydrangea can be heavily pruned without harming flowering. Tree hydrangeas receive all the annual pruning done on most shrubs. Let us consider them in the order in which they are carried out in practice.

Sanitary pruning- for tree hydrangea this is mainly pruning the frozen ends of last year's shoots and broken branches.

Anti-aging pruning- cutting out branches older than 3-4 years of age to the base and, first of all, those with weak growth from the previous year.

Thinning pruning- cutting out small shoots that are not capable of flowering, thickening the bush, growing in the center and, above all, weak zero shoots.

Pruning for flowering- shortening last year's growths, leaving 2 - 4 pairs of well-developed buds on them, from which strong shoots that bloom this year grow. Often after frosty winters, sanitary pruning of frozen shoots replaces all types of pruning.

Tree hydrangea

.

1. pruning inflorescences
2. sanitary pruning
3. rejuvenating
4. thinning of shoots
5. pruning for flowering - shortening shoots

A number of related species: motley, ashen and others are trimmed in the same way.

Pruning and forming paniculate hydrangea

This hydrangea also has a high shoot-forming ability, but the ability to form zero shoots is reduced, especially in mature plants. Paniculate hydrangea can grow either as a bush or as a tree. It produces the current year's shoots from all the previous year's buds and buds on older wood, with most of the current year's shoots ending in an inflorescence. Thus, from year to year the number of shoots and inflorescences rapidly increases, the shoots weaken, and the inflorescences become smaller. That is why paniculate hydrangeas need the formation of young plants and annual fairly strong pruning of adult plants.

A young plant can be formed in a bush and tree-like (standard) form. When forming a bush, the seedling is planted several centimeters deep so that several shoots immediately appear coming out of the ground. As they grow, strong zero shoots are left, and weak shoots are removed. The crown is formed by shortening last year's growths, leaving 1 - 3 pairs of buds and cutting out excess branches.

The standard form is formed from a seedling with a pronounced stem.

Formation of the standard form of paniculate hydrangea

The first years a standard is created: new zero shoots are removed, the continuation shoot is tied up in a vertical position, annual shoots on the trunk are pinched in summer and serve to feed and thicken the trunk, and next spring cut into a ring. When the trunk reaches the required height of 0.5-1 m in the spring, a crown is formed from last year’s shoots of the upper part of the plant. You can create a tree with 2-3 trunks, which makes it more stable and reliable.

First year - planting

2 - 3 years - “raising” the trunk

4th year - crown formation

1 planted young plant with buds
2 spring shortening of the shoot
3 bending the continuation shoot
4 pinching shoots of the current year
5 removal of last year's shoots to form a trunk
6 removal of shoots formed on the trunk
7 formation of the crown from last year’s shoots
8 trunks 0.5 - 1m high

Adult pruning plants

Pruning of an adult plant is carried out mainly in the spring. In autumn, it is necessary to trim off faded inflorescences, because... fragile branches easily break off after snowfalls; sometimes the inflorescences are cut off with part of the shoot to make it easier spring pruning and further reduce the likelihood of branches breaking.

Sanitary pruning- For paniculata hydrangea This is mainly the removal of broken branches, because... freezing occurs only in very frosty winters. Old plants tend to have quite a lot of dead, dried out branches.

Anti-aging pruning- closer to tree trimming, because even when forming a bush, paniculate hydrangea has fairly thick and durable trunks and skeletal branches. Therefore, the main trunks and skeletal branches can be preserved for many years, and only the old branches, with fading growth, are cut out into a ring or up to a branching young branch. I consider the “planting on a stump” recommended in some sources for paniculate hydrangea (as opposed to tree hydrangea) to be inappropriate.

Thinning pruning. This hydrangea has a very high shoot-forming ability. It thickens quickly and lighting conditions worsen. It is necessary to cut out small branches that do not produce high-quality inflorescences, all growing inside the bush. Of the three young shoots growing from one point, you need to leave 1 - 2 shoots growing outward.

Pruning for flowering aimed at developing strong growth with large inflorescences. It consists of shortening all last year's shoots in the spring, leaving 1 - 3 pairs of buds on them, from which the current year's shoots with inflorescences will develop. It must be borne in mind that the thicker the shoot that is trimmed, the more buds can be left on it without deteriorating the quality of the inflorescences.

Paniculata hydrangea

pruning in autumn. . . . . . . pruning in spring

1 inflorescence trimming
2 sanitary pruning
3 rejuvenating
4 pruning for flowering - shortening shoots
5 thinning - removing excess shoots

Pruning and shaping large-leaved hydrangea

This type of hydrangea is a typical shrub. Throughout its life, zero shoots are formed annually, and 4-6 year old shoots become obsolete. Unlike other species, the main flowering occurs on shoots growing from the upper buds of last year's shoots. The lower the buds, the less likely it is that flowering shoots will form from them. Therefore, it is so important to preserve in winter young shoots and their tops that do not bloom this year, which will flower next year. The peculiarity of pruning this hydrangea is that the shoots are not shortened, except when they freeze. If pruned incorrectly or the shoots are severely shortened due to freezing, large-leaved hydrangeas may not bloom at all.
Pruning for flowering serves the purpose of annual education and best growth young shoots for flowering next year. Therefore, if there are a lot of faded shoots, they are cut out in the fall after flowering, improving the growth conditions of young ones. Trimming large-leaved hydrangeas can have varietal characteristics. There are varieties with reduced shoot-forming ability, and they need to be pruned less. On new varieties that can bloom on the current year's shoots, it is more correct to carry out the same pruning while preserving last year's shoots. In warm climates, this makes flowering very long - first on old and then on young shoots. With our short summer, annual shoots bloom too late.

Large leaf hydrangea

pruning in autumn. . . . . . . pruning in spring

1 young non-flowering shoots (preserved)
2 2-year-old faded shoots
3 pruning of faded shoots (2) to the outgoing young branch (1 on the right)
4 sanitary pruning
5 anti-aging pruning
6 thinning pruning

In the fall, if this hydrangea will overwinter under the simplest shelter, you do not need to prune it, but only remove the inflorescences. Hydrangea overwintering under air-dry cover is better to prune first in the fall, and finally in the spring. Before the shelter, all branches with flowers are cut off until a strong young non-flowering branch emerges; this is pruning for flowering, and then the leaves are removed. Naturally, if for one reason or another there are few or almost no strong young branches that have not bloomed, then not all branches with flowers are cut off. On young plants and varieties with low shoot-forming ability, pruning for flowering is almost not carried out; only old inflorescences are pruned.

In the spring they carry out: sanitary pruning - removal of frozen ends of shoots, dry and broken branches; rejuvenating - cutting out old branches at the base of the bush; thinning - cutting out small branches that are not valuable for flowering. If the hydrangea was pruned before covering, pruning for flowering in the spring is not carried out.

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Pruning tree hydrangea (H.arborescens)

This type of hydrangea is characterized by large flat inflorescences, colored first in a greenish tint, then turning into white and then pink. Caring for tree hydrangea consists largely of autumn pruning. Next year's buds form on the current year's shoots. Shelter for wintering is necessary in the presence of young shoots and severe cold winter. The plant has the ability to quickly form shoots and also has a large number of zero shoots. Usually not formed by a certain form crowns, grows like a free-growing shrub. After planting, the branches are most often shortened a little for better formation and growth of the plant. There are usually many inflorescences on the shoots of the current year, and there is abundant flowering. These shoots of the current year appeared both on all shoots of the previous year (along their entire length), and on older shoots, on underground shoots. They are called zeros. Some of the strongest zero shoots may bloom.

In autumn, only dry inflorescences are cut off.
In the spring, they do sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Shoots 1 year old are pruned, leaving 3 to 5 buds, from which new strong shoots with large inflorescences will later appear. The regrowth of shoots occurs quickly; already in the same year they will grow and bloom even more luxuriantly. In case of severe pruning from 2 to 3 buds, flowering becomes more sparse. And it starts later, at the end of July.

Tree hydrangea, pruning diagram. On the left is pruning in the fall, on the right in the spring.

Thinning pruning is also necessary. This is the removal of shoots that thicken the bush (small shoots growing in the center, weakened zero shoots that are not capable of flowering).

There is pruning of hydrangeas for flowering. This is pruning of the previous year's growth, leaving 2 to 4 pairs of well-formed buds. Strong flowering shoots will appear from them this season. Often, due to a harsh winter, it is necessary to prune a lot of frozen shoots, then the main and only pruning will be sanitary.

In the first four years of a young bush's life, pruning is not done. Shoots of the plant young plant serve in the formation of the root system and increase its mass. IN spring period Hydrangea begins to have strong sap flow; when pruning a young bush, a fragile plant can lose a lot of sap and die. If you still need to trim some shoots, then it is better to remove them when the leaves of the plant have already blossomed.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning of an old tree hydrangea bush (carried out once every 5-7 years), in the spring it is cut off completely, all shoots older than 5 years, leaving stumps 10 cm high. Large, very old plants are not recommended to be pruned in one pruning. Otherwise, there is a high probability of plant death due to lack of nutrition in its root system. It is better to do anti-aging pruning three times over three years.

If you need to get cuttings from a tree hydrangea, then they should be harvested when the plant’s sap flow begins. Otherwise, the cut cuttings will not take root well.

Ash hydrangeas, motley hydrangeas and a number of other hydrangeas similar in appearance are pruned in the same way.

The photo shows a tree hydrangea.

Pruning panicle hydrangea (H.paniculata)

Description and main types of pruning

Externally, the bush looks like a tree hydrangea. But the plant is more spreading and powerful. Flowering on the shoots of the current year, in the form of cone-shaped inflorescences. New shoots are formed from all buds on branches that are 2-3 years old. Tolerates cold and harsh winters well. The buds of the next year's paniculate hydrangea, like those of the tree hydrangea, are formed on the shoots of the current one. Usually paniculata hydrangea is not covered for wintering. The plant has a high ability to form shoots. The ability to form zero shoots is reduced. And the plant can be formed either in the form of a bush or in the form of a tree.

In autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut back to the first pair of buds. You cannot leave dry inflorescences for the winter, otherwise, under the weight of snow, they may break or deform (the wood of paniculate hydrangea is delicate and fragile), bend down, and in the future it will be necessary to tie up the plant so that it straightens vertically.

In the spring (March) they do the basic sanitary pruning, cutting off thin, weak, frozen, damaged and dried shoots. Annual shoots are trimmed, leaving 3 to 5 buds. Remove small shoots that thicken the bush, and leave a couple of strong shoots on large ones. The more massive the shoot, the more buds you need to leave on it in order to get strong and strong branches and abundant flowering in the future. Up to a pair of awakened buds, you can also refresh the cut left in the fall after removing the inflorescences. Paniculata hydrangea thickens quickly, and the number of branches and inflorescences increases every year. This can lead to weakening of branches and shrinking of inflorescences. Therefore, in the spring, shortening all last year’s shoots is encouraged; this has a beneficial effect on flowering. Proper formation of the young plant is necessary, as well as systematic annual pruning of adult plants. When pruning, a beautiful, neat crown of the bush is formed. At correct execution all recommendations, every year the flowering will only become more abundant and luxuriant.

Paniculata hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

In the case of rejuvenating pruning, from shoots growing from one point, a couple of shoots growing outward are left, the rest are cut off.

In many ways, pruning paniculate hydrangea depends on the shape that needs to be given to the plant: standard with an erect or drooping crown, bush or bush with a raised crown.

Formation of the standard form of paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

Paniculata hydrangea is often confused with tree hydrangea, since paniculata has long-lasting, woody branches and skeletal shoots. Pruning tree hydrangea occurs like pruning a bush, and pruning paniculata occurs like pruning a tree, and its formation is possible both in the form of a bush and in the form of a standard tree. In plants aged 5-7 years, the buds on the lower branches practically do not awaken. This feature of paniculate hydrangea makes it possible to form it into a tree.

To form a tree, you need to select a seedling with a pronounced stem. In the spring, a young plant (2-3 years old) must select one upright shoot. This will serve as the trunk of the standard tree. It must be tied to the support without damaging or distorting it, strictly in a vertical position. In summer, side shoots form on the tree; they need to be pinched. They are not deleted, because they serve in the formation of the tree trunk as food. Thus, the trunk of the trunk thickens, becomes stronger, and next spring they are cut into a ring. As the tree reaches the desired height (from 0.5 to 1.5 meters), it is necessary to prune it, this is how the height of the beginning of its branching is formed. Next, a crown is formed from last year's shoots.

There are different varieties with different characteristics and growth rates. By selecting a certain variety of paniculate hydrangea, you can form a standard tree with both a drooping and an upright crown. When forming a paniculate hydrangea with a drooping crown, the future trunk of a standard tree is cut at a level of 1.5 meters. When forming a plant with an upright crown, the future trunk of the tree is cut to 1 meter. For the formation of a “weeping”, descending crown of hydrangea, the most suitable varieties will be “Grandiflora”, “Limelight”, for the formation of an upright crown - the varieties “Kyushu” or “Tardiva” ( "Tardiva")

In the future, pruning the plant consists of shortening the skeletal branches by 2-3 buds every year until the desired crown shape is formed. Root shoots cut as soon as they appear. Also, faded, faded inflorescences and shoots up to the first pair of buds are cut off for abundant flowering next season. Damaged branches and zero shoots are systematically removed, lateral shoots on the trunk are pinched this year, and they are cut out next year. After a couple of decades, a standard tree with a trunk from 8 to 10 cm in diameter is obtained. If desired, you can form a tree with several main trunks. This type of trunk is very strong and stable. A standard panicle hydrangea tree, a “bouquet on a leg,” will serve as a decoration for a personal plot, a beautiful and unusual accent in garden decoration.

Formation of a bush form in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

When planting, the seedling is buried 3-4 cm. This promotes the emergence of several shoots from the ground at once. Then the weak zero shoots are cut out, leaving the strong ones. The bush is formed by shortening the growth of the previous year, leaving from 1 to 3 pairs of buds. Excess, thickening branches are removed, and as the bush thickens, the inflorescences become smaller. To form and maintain paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, sanitary pruning is mainly necessary. To achieve stronger shoots and larger inflorescences, you can cut weak, woody shoots into a ring. This will be to the detriment of flowering, but large separate branches and inflorescences.

By pruning paniculate hydrangea in the form of a bush, you can get a beautiful and useful element decor - a living, free-growing hedge that will delight not only with lush flowering, but also with its density.

Formation of a bush form with a raised crown in paniculate hydrangea, pruning features

In the spring, weak, damaged, thickening branches are removed from a 2-3 year old plant. Leave from 3 to 5 strong shoots growing at an angle of 30 degrees from the vertical position. Next, they are fixed to the supports, which should also be installed at an angle of 30 degrees. This promotes the development and formation of plant branches in the right direction. Every year it is necessary to remove new lower shoots from the ring, leaving only the apical and 2-3 pairs of upper buds. These buds will sprout next year. The central shoot will form new buds above the developed shoots, which will become the top shoots next year. With the onset of the new season, these upper buds are left, cutting off the side shoots formed in the previous year into a ring. Systematically, throughout the summer, all young shoots (without waiting for their lignification) that form on the central, below 2-3 pairs of upper buds are removed. Trimming and shaping must be done every year until the required height of the central conductors is reached. On average, the required plant height is formed within 2-3 years. When the shoots reach a length of one meter, they are cut off, forming a frame skeleton of the crown. Formative and sanitary pruning is done every year throughout the life of the plant.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea (H. macrophylla)

Large-leaved hydrangea is a typical shrub. Zero shoots are formed throughout life. Shoots 4-6 years old become old. Flowering occurs on the inflorescences of current shoots formed on last year's shoots. Flower buds form on the upper third of the branch. Not so long ago, varieties were developed that form buds on the entire shoot. Therefore, pruning should be correct, minimal, careful and gentle. The less you prune large-leaved hydrangea, the more abundant its flowering. This is a heat-loving plant, and its flowering depends largely on wintering. The bush needs to be well covered for the winter with an air-dry shelter.

In autumn, it is better not to prune, just remove faded inflorescences.
In spring, sanitary pruning is carried out. You cannot prune last year's shoots, because... flower buds are located on them. Young one-year-old shoots are left. Remove dried, damaged branches onto the ring. You need to cut carefully with pruning shears, at a right angle. To avoid deformation and damage to the kidneys. If you cut off more than 1-2 buds, the plant may not bloom. Systematically remove 1/4 of the old shoots that have many lateral shoots and branches to avoid thickening of the bush. Pruning such skeletal shoots encourages the growth of new branches from the base of the plant. This pruning is carried out immediately after flowering. Flower buds form on the newly formed shoots, which will bloom in the new season.

Anti-aging pruning is necessary every 4-5 years. The branches are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from ground level. This gives renewal to the plant, promotes the growth of new shoots and further flowering. Also completely cut off branches that have a curved shape, are inclined, or cross. This creates a beautiful compact bush shape.

Large-leaved hydrangea. On the left is pruning in the fall. On the right is pruning in the spring.

The photo shows the large-leaved hydrangea "Rotschwanz".

Among large-leaved hydrangeas you can sometimes find varietal characteristics, varieties that tolerate heavy pruning, even to ground level. For example, the variety “Endless Summer”, with very strong pruning, blooms on new shoots, on the current growth. In this case, the flowering is single and occurs late, at the end of summer (August). If you prune hydrangeas of this variety moderately, flowering occurs more abundantly and occurs earlier (late July). Among large-leaved hydrangeas, there are varieties that can bloom on zero shoots - “Forever and ever”, “Hovaria Miral”.

Care after pruning

After pruning, the plant needs fertilizing with minerals and organic fertilizers. After pruning, the base of the bush is mulched with compost, peat, manure, humus (about 5 cm). Spring feeding hydrangea stimulates the growth and development of new shoots, promotes flowering. In the summer, it is advisable to fertilize with chicken manure diluted with water in proportions of 1:10.

By following the rules for pruning and shaping hydrangeas, depending on the characteristics of the variety, you can bring to life any bold idea. design solution using this vibrant and lush plant. Hydrangea will delight everyone with her abundant flowering and dense foliage crown.

In regions with cold winters, only paniculate hydrangeas can safely endure frosts down to -30 degrees. And even they require covering the root system. The remaining species must be carefully covered in the fall, otherwise their branches and growing points will freeze over the winter. When and how to prune paniculate, tree-like, large-leaved hydrangea correctly in the fall, how and how to cover the shrubs winter you can find out from our article.

Flowering shrubs with gorgeous spherical inflorescences of the most various colors With their blooms they can decorate the garden until autumn. And if they do not require special care during the summer, in the fall it is necessary to carry out a number of procedures to prepare the bushes for the onset of frost.

Such procedures include:

1. Specific pruning of some types of hydrangea.
2. Feeding bushes in August-September with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. In autumn, hydrangeas are not fertilized with nitrogen.
3. From the first month of autumn, gradually reduce watering and reduce it to a minimum by the end of September.
4. Tear off all the lower leaves on the shoots so that the stems become woody (leave only the top ones).
5. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from around the bushes. All this must be burned so that fungi and pests do not survive in them.
6. Taking into account the type of flower, carry out the necessary covering procedure.

Let's look at the first and last points in more detail.

Should hydrangeas be pruned in the fall?

Basically, autumn pruning of paniculata, tree-like and large-leaf hydrangeas is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation. How to prune correctly:

1. After flowering, you can cut off only faded buds on Tree and Paniculata hydrangeas . These plants with white flowers bloom on annual shoots. Therefore many experienced flower growers They claim that after trimming old flower stalks, they, like lilacs, will have many young shoots.
2. Some gardeners recommend pruning hydrangeas in the fall, others in the spring, before the sap flows. In addition, if you leave old faded inflorescences for the winter, then under the weight of snow they can break along with the branches. But this will happen if the bushes spend the winter without shelter.
3. Large-leaved hydrangea should be pruned very carefully! Its inflorescences form on last year's inflorescences, so young shoots must overwinter in order for flowers to form on them next year. In autumn on large leaf hydrangea You can only trim old shoots, on which there was flowering. Pruning is carried out to two strong buds. Old and weak branches can be removed completely.
4. At When pruning Hydrangea paniculata, do not touch the skeletal branches. If several branches grow from one point, then it is necessary to leave those that grow outward. Annual growth of shoots is shortened by two to five buds, weak branches are removed.
5. In Hydrangea Tree Additionally, thick, old stems are trimmed.

Video: pruning tree hydrangea in autumn

Watch the video on how to properly prune a tree hydrangea in the fall so that next year you won’t be left without beautiful flowers.

How to properly cover a hydrangea for the winter?

When all the above procedures have been completed, it’s time to take care of covering the hydrangeas for the winter. The method of shelter depends on the region. IN southern regions There is no need to particularly cover hydrangeas. In Paniculaceae and Tree-like species, it is enough to hill the bush high. But if cold snaps are possible in winter, then cover the young plants with additional peat and non-woven material.

Shelter for winter of large bushes

It is quite difficult to bend such plants to the ground, so they are covered in the following way:

1. Fall asleep and spud up trunk circle dry ground.
2. The bush is carefully wrapped with a special material - lutrasil, which is secured with tape or rope.
3. From metal mesh or wooden planks a frame is built around the shelter.
4. The internal space between the bush and the mesh is filled with dry leaves.
5. The top of the frame is covered with plastic film or roofing felt.

This air-dry method is impossible would be better suited for not very young Tree and Paniculate hydrangeas.

Cover with spruce branches

To implement this method, you will need to prepare:

• metal or wooden staples;
• spruce spruce branches (a lot);
• peat;
• lutrasil;
• brick or boards.

First of all, all the trunk circles of the bushes are covered with spruce branches, on which the stems are laid from the center of the plant to the sides. The shoots at the base are pinned to the ground with staples.

Spruce branches are laid on the lying stems, and the center is filled with peat. Everything is covered with lutrasil on top and pressed against the edges with bricks or boards. Such a shelter will not be able to be disrupted by the wind, and it will be able to protect the plant even in frosts below -40 degrees.

Shelter of young hydrangeas

A small bush can be wrapped for the winter in the following way:

1. Cover the trunk circle with dry soil to protect root system and lower buds from freezing.
2. Place around bushes small boards with nails driven into them. The nails must stick out so that the rope can be wound around them.
3. Carefully tie the hydrangea bush with a rope and carefully begin to pull it towards the boards.
4. Tie the ropes to the nails.
5. Cover the shoots with sawdust or cover with spruce branches.
6. Cover the top with spunbond, lutrasil (30 grade) or a simple sheet old iron.

These are the most common ways to cover hydrangeas for the winter. Experienced gardeners They have already adapted and are covering their pets with improvised materials.

You should also know that you should not immediately open the bushes as soon as the first warm days arrive. Night frosts and returning colds can damage plants that have not yet matured. There is no need to be alarmed if you see mold on the shoots after cleaning the shelter. It can simply be washed off with water.

Young plants need to be covered for the winter in any case. But every year their winter hardiness increases, and soon adult paniculate and tree hydrangeas will not need to be covered. It is enough just to hill up their tree trunk circle.

Covering large-leaved hydrangea for the winter: video

Watch the video clip, which shows several ways to cover hydrangeas in the fall so that the bushes do not freeze in winter.

When to cover hydrangea for the winter?

This should be done depending on the weather in your area. Sheltering is usually done with the onset of significant frosts, but the cold has not yet set in. This period occurs in early or mid-October. In warmer areas it may shift to late October. If it’s still quite warm outside, you can first simply hill up the bushes, and when the temperature drops below 0 degrees, start covering the plants.

Hydrangeas in bloom look so beautiful that you simply can’t take your eyes off them. But in order for the bushes to delight with their flowering, they need proper preparation to winter, which consists of autumn pruning of paniculate, tree-like hydrangeas and covering them for the winter. And then on next year your garden will be the envy of all your neighbors.

To perennial flowering shrubs have successfully survived the cold, they need to be covered for the winter. Such plants include large-leaved hydrangea, the flowers of which practically freeze out and flowering does not occur.

In order for such a bush to become a real decoration of any garden, you need to prune the hydrangea for the winter and properly prepare it for winter.

Description of the plant

Hydrangea is one of the most common flowering plants for garden decoration. In total there are about 70–80 species of this. The shrub can grow up to 2 meters in height.

It is a deciduous bush with erect shoots and egg-shaped leaves bright green color.

The plant begins to bloom in early summer. The flowering period continues until late autumn at proper care. At the ends of the stems are formed lush spherical inflorescences. The color of the lush inflorescences is bright and varies:

• lilac;
• white;
• pink;
• blue;
• red.

Moreover shade may vary optionally, if you change the composition of the soil in which the shrub grows. For example, in sour inflorescences there will be blue color, and with an alkaline soil composition it will bloom pink. A neutral composition will lead to the flowering of beige inflorescences.

Garden varieties are distinguished by abundant flowering and quite easy to care for. With these qualities, hydrangea has always attracted lovers of growing flowers. personal plot. To the most popular varieties Hydrangea for cultivation in Russia includes paniculata, tree-like and large-leaved hydrangea.

Most of the care hassle is associated with protecting the plant in winter period. The most winter-hardy is hydrangea paniculata. Varieties of this species are able to survive winter at minus 30 degrees. This is due to the fact that its natural habitat is Sakhalin. To protect it from frost, only the root system needs to be covered. The plant almost never freezes and withstands harsh conditions, after which it blooms luxuriantly and profusely.

For many years now, hydrangeas have firmly taken their place not only in gardens and flower beds, but also in the hearts of flower lovers. Novice gardeners are frightened by the capriciousness of the plant. Consider care and preparation in the fall ahead of winter so that you can enjoy your hydrangeas for many years to come.

Treelike and paniculata can withstand cold weather middle zone and Moscow region, even Siberian frosts and heavy snowfalls protect the bush. If this plant is frozen, it easily recovers in the spring.

The youngest bushes should be covered from the wind with covering material, spruce branches, etc. It is worth protecting plants from the cold if winters in your region have little snow, but with frosts.

Otherwise, it’s enough to simply hill up the bushes, remove all the leaves at the beginning of autumn, leaving only the top ones, so that the bush “woodens” faster.

The most demanding for winter shelter turned out to be large-leaved and petiolate liana-shaped hydrangea, which They do not tolerate even light frosts well. The latter must be removed from the support if necessary.

You need to cover before the thermometer drops to -3 degrees

Methods and options for covering hydrangeas and preparing for winter

Sawdust, branches and foliage

Prepare a bedding around the plant from sawdust, spruce branches, even dry leaves will do. Lower the shoots to the sides from the center of the bush to the ground, in a circle. Secure them with staples, twigs, etc.

Any blanket will serve material like spunbond, lutrasil, agroteka. The colder the winter, the more layers you will need. Lapnik, etc. can be alternated with covering material, sawdust.

It is acceptable to use compost soil as the penultimate layer. Last layer to choose from: roofing felt, wooden shield, film. Reinforce it with bricks or stones so that gusts of wind do not tear down the shelter.

You can collect the shoots, tie them together and bend them to the ground. Secure with staples or another method and “cover” with the same sawdust, spruce branches, foliage.

On the sides build supports using available materials. Place agrotech (lutrasil, etc.) on them, and on top something that will protect the plant from precipitation.

A warning to beginners: when bending branches to the ground, do not break them.

Tying shoots: what you need to prepare

If the hydrangea is very woody, tie the shoots together and wrap them in several layers with the existing agrofibre. Fence the bush with netting or other materials (planks, stakes) so that the frame is 15-20 cm higher than the plant.

Inside (between the fence and the bush) add sawdust, pine needles or leaves. Use film, roofing felt, etc. on top.

Air-dry covering

The framework that has already been discussed is used. We cover it with covering material in several layers so that it sags a little.

If you use a film on top, pull it tightly, then the air between the layers of our “blanket” will allow you to retain additional heat.

Advantages of this method:

• protective layers cannot harm the plant
• in case of warming the bush will not rot
• convenient to ventilate

Save the frame before next winter! It can be used for several years in a row, which will speed up preparation for cold weather in the future.

The covering method using frames is convenient in that it can be made for several plants.

Why and how to properly prune varieties for the winter

There is no consensus on the best time to prune plants. In the spring you need to be on time prune during the dormant period. Autumn time gardening work usually more. there is no risk of being late.

Flower buds are laid in the summer, that is, it blooms on last year's shoots.

It is permissible for it to shorten branches to form beautiful shape bush, removing dead shoots. Autumn pruning is preferable.

In autumn, dried flowers are removed. In spring, sanitary pruning is indicated; weak and damaged branches are removed. One-year-old shoots are shortened, keeping no more than five buds. Young shoots will appear quickly, flowering will become more abundant.

Pruned like a tree, removing old and interfering shoots without touching the main ones. If rejuvenation of hydrangea is required, radical pruning is possible, to a height of 10 cm from the ground.

If the bush is large, do not rush to trim it entirely, stretch out the procedure for 3 years. Paniculata hydrangea forms flower buds on the current year's shoots. They form on branches over two years old.

In autumn and spring, the same pruning measures are carried out as for tree hydrangea. Subsequently, formative pruning depends on the type of crown desired.

It is important to remove the inflorescences, since the thin branches with soft wood of paniculate hydrangea will suffer due to the accumulation of snow.

We described the subspecies of this variety in detail in the article.

Very lush bush, blooming on the shoots of the current year, but pruning it only means shortening the stems and forming a crown.

The first 4 years are very weak growth. Therefore, it is not pruned at this time. Then pruning to strong buds and sanitary pruning is permissible.

Her considered to be a large-leaved form, but they advise cutting it like this shrub species. These include hydrangeas:

• oakleaf;
• radiant;
• ashy;
• rough or rough;
• Sargent, or Sargent;
• motley.

They are cut to approx. as well as tree or paniculate. Young bushes are not pruned; two-year-old bushes undergo only sanitary pruning; from the third year, pruning to 2-3 strong buds

• stimulating For lush flowering(keep 3-4 buds on the shoot);
• sanitary(removal of diseased, damaged branches;
• formative and thinning (to give the plant a beautiful shape and to reduce the density of shoots);
• rejuvenating pruning An adult plant retains up to 10 strong shoots, of which no more than half are from last year. Shoots older than 4 years and those that produce weak growth are cut off at the root.

In large-leaved hydrangea, only faded inflorescences are removed in the fall.

The main method of caring for trimmed hydrangeas is fertilizing and mulching.

How to help hydrangea recover after winter

In order for the plant to come out of winter well, do not forget tear off the lower leaves and stop watering the plant, then it will become stronger. As the weather warms up, gradually remove the layers of cover if you have done so.

Large-leaved hydrangea can be fully opened when the temperature outside is above zero, not only during the day, but also at night.

Assess the condition of the plant after wintering, whether there are spots or blackness on the leaves. Severely damaged shoots and leaves must be removed. Then treat with Bordeaux salt or copper preparations and repeat it after 2-3 weeks.

For prevention carry out regular treatment with universal drugs against fungi and bacterial infections, but not earlier than once every 21 days.

The first feeding should contain potassium, phosphates and urea. Nitrogen stimulates the growth of new shoots and leaves.

Lush and colorful flowering will become the subject of your joy and pride. As noted in the article, large-leaved is the most capricious.

Large-leaved showed itself to be the most fastidious in terms of care

It must be wrapped well for the winter. In general, caring for hydrangea bushes is simple and comes down to proper pruning and regular feeding. The time spent is worth admiring the results of the work.