A plant of the heather family, well known to lovers of growing flowers in yard flower beds, country houses or personal plots, – rhododendron. The genus includes about six hundred species, most of them are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, although there are also small trees. The now popular azaleas are a subspecies of rhododendrons. In recent years they have become widespread in greenhouse and indoor floriculture.
Spring care
Gardeners love rhododendrons because these flowers do not require too much attention. Proper planting will allow the plant to take root and develop well. In the list of care activities:
- spraying;
- watering;
- feeding
For successful growth and development of plants, fertilizing is simply necessary, both for young and old rhododendrons. Only in this case will the plant delight its owners with beautiful, healthy green leaves and bright, lush flowers.
Some tips for feeding. First, it is best to apply fertilizer in liquid form. This will ensure speedy delivery and better absorption of minerals and useful substances. Secondly, fertilizing is required in the first year, when the plant is forming. Thirdly, rhododendron can signal the owner about a lack of minerals. Signs are lightening or falling of leaves, a decrease in their shine, the absence of new shoots and buds.
Types of feeding
The most popular is organic fertilizer, colloquially manure, but not fresh manure that has been sitting for a year. It helps to increase the nutritional value of the soil, improves the properties of the soil, in particular, increases moisture permeability and breathability.
Important note: organic fertilizers must be applied diluted (proportion 1:15). To activate microbiological processes, the fertilizer must first be infused, a few days are enough. For good growth To ensure beautiful flowering of rhododendrons, it is necessary to use mineral fertilizers, primarily phosphorus, for example superphosphate, which must be diluted with water in the proportion indicated on the package.
Since rhododendrons are tolerant of acidic soil, it is acceptable to use ammonium sulfate, magnesium sulfate and potassium sulfate for feeding. The plant must first be watered well, then fertilizers must be applied (also in liquid form).
Lovers of these beautiful flowers They know that there are special periods when plants desperately need fertilizing. You need to do it the first time in early spring to support weakened shrubs after winter. The second period of feeding is carried out after flowering has completed. Sometimes it is advised to separate the types of feeding. In spring, nitrogenous mineral fertilizers should be applied. Postpone the application of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers until flowering ends.
The choice of fertilizers and feeding methods, naturally, remains with the owner. summer cottage. Rhododendron will respond to care with beautiful lush flowers and emerald greenery.
Not every fan of rhododendron can achieve a truly luxurious appearance. The plant is demanding in terms of growing conditions, and proper and timely application of fertilizers occupies a special place in its care. How to feed rhododendron in the spring, so that when summer comes it will delight everyone around with its beautiful flowers? The answer to this question is in this article.
Insufficient nutrition or an unbalanced diet of rhododendrons significantly worsens their health and decorative properties. The lack of various chemical elements manifests itself in the following changes in the appearance of the shrub:
- leaves turn yellow;
- young shoots stop growing;
- buds freeze in development and fall off;
- leaves become covered with spots.
If the crown of the rhododendron has lost its natural shine, and the edges are green sheet plates If dirty brown spots appear, potassium reserves in the soil are depleted; the bushes must be urgently fed with appropriate fertilizer.
Yellowing of the foliage indicates an excess of aluminum, which is often a problem in clay soils. In this case, watering the plant with a solution of iron chelate can help.
Deterioration of the decorative properties of rhododendron in the second year after planting in open ground often attributed to problems with acclimatization or pest infestation. However, treating such a specimen and spraying it with insecticides often only worsens the situation. The shrub lacks nutrition, the reserves of which in the soil have dried up in the first year of cultivation.
For normal development and lush flowering Rhododendron should follow the recommendations regarding its fertilizing as closely as possible.
Features of the root system: what fertilizers cannot be used?
The main distinguishing feature of rhododendron roots is the presence of mycorrhiza in them - a special fungus that helps the plant survive and develop in acidic soil with a minimal content of nutrients (the bushes prefer this kind of soil).
Mycorrhiza makes its own demands on the composition of fertilizers and fertilizers. It does not tolerate chlorine, so this chemical element should not be present in preparations for rhododendrons.
The root system of the shrub is compact; it is not capable of growing strongly and independently obtaining food for the plant from deeper layers of soil and more distant from the planting site. This feature It is imperative to take into account when caring for the crop, feeding it in a timely manner, so that rhododendrons do not lack the chemical elements that are important for them during the growth process.
Basic feeding rules
When feeding the crop in question with the necessary substances, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
- Rhododendrons require fertilizers and fertilizing from the first year of planting. A poor diet quickly affects the health and appearance of plants, and a long-term lack of nutrition can lead to their death.
When fertilizing rhododendrons, it is important to carefully monitor the dosage of the drugs. If the bush is feeling well, instead of fertilizing it is better to mulch the soil under it, so as not to damage the roots with excess “chemicals”.
- Fertilizers for rhododendrons are applied to the soil for the first time in early spring to help the plants regain strength after wintering. The next application is planned for mid-summer after flowering and during the period of active growth of vegetative mass. Feeding should be completed in mid-July so that excess nutrition does not provoke the growth of new stems, which will not have time to grow stronger in the months remaining before winter and will freeze out with the onset of cold weather.
- Before fertilizing the rhododendron, it needs to be watered abundantly to protect the roots from chemical burns. The shrub also responds well to monthly watering with acidified water. Prepare it by squeezing the juice of 1 lemon into 1 liter of water (you can use it instead citric acid– 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water). Each plant requires at least 5 liters of such liquid.
- Both organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in liquid form. Only in autumn or early spring is it allowed to feed plants with whole humus. To do this, pieces of fertilizer are laid out under the bushes on the surface of the ground. Rain and melt water will take nutrients with them and deliver them to the roots in dissolved form.
Types of fertilizers
To feed rhododendrons, both organic and mineral fertilizers are used with equal success, which differ from each other in the ratio of micro- and macroelements, as well as in the features of application.
Mineral
Special fertilizers developed for the needs of rhododendrons and azaleas, due to their balanced composition, help to avoid mistakes in organizing fertilizing. Such mixtures are easy to prepare and are well absorbed by plants.
Organic
Organic matter is the most environmentally friendly option for feeding rhododendrons, but due to its high nitrogen content it can only be used in the spring. Natural fertilizers not only increase soil fertility, but also improve its structure and enhance moisture-retaining properties.
The composition of organic fertilizer may include manure, bird droppings, peat, compost, horn shavings, etc. Organic matter is usually applied under bushes in the form of an aqueous solution, but it can also be used as mulch. Good way organizing additional nutrition for rhododendrons - mulching tree trunks in spring and autumn with a mixture of rotted manure and high-moor peat.
Feeding scheme
At certain stages of development, rhododendrons require different nutrients, therefore, when fertilizing, you should adhere to the following fertilizer application schedule:
- At the beginning of spring, the bush is fertilized with organic matter or preparations containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate is suitable). This fertilizing helps the plants come out of hibernation and prepare for future flowering.
- With the onset of the budding period, the plant diet is enriched with fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Azofoska can be used). This allows you to strengthen the root system of the rhododendron, extend the flowering period and stimulate the process of growing new shoots.
- When flowering is complete, the bushes are fed with complex fertilizers. A universal mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate (20 g each) with the addition of ammonium sulfate (40 g) is suitable. This measure helps the plants recover and successfully cope with the subsequent formation of flower buds in order to bloom on time in the new season.
Feeding ends in mid-July, as at this time rhododendrons begin to prepare for the dormant period. Additional nutrition will enhance shoot growth and worsen the winter hardiness of plants.
Products on the market
There are a great variety of products on the market for feeding rhododendrons. When choosing the optimal fertilizer, you should focus on what problems the plants have and what final result needs to be achieved by using this or that drug.
Pokon
A universal fertilizer made in Holland that promotes regular, abundant and long-lasting flowering of rhododendrons, as well as maximum preservation of their health. The product is well absorbed by plants and can be used year-round. During the active growing season, the composition is diluted according to the instructions (at the rate of 10 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water); in winter, for home or greenhouse varieties, the dosage is halved.
Bona forte
Russian complex fertilizer for rhododendrons is used to increase their decorative properties, stimulate growth and provide adequate nutrition. When growing shrubs, it is recommended to combine root feeding and spraying with Bona Forte. To water the plants, the drug is diluted in water at the rate of 10 ml per 1.5 liters of liquid, sprayed with a solution containing half the dose of the product.
Manure
Cow manure is used as fertilizer for rhododendrons only in semi-rotted form. Fertilizing is carried out in spring or summer, carefully monitoring the level of soil acidity and preventing it from decreasing.
Pig and horse manure are absolutely not suitable for fertilizing rhododendrons, as they contribute to alkalization of the soil.
Preparations containing compressed manure can be easily found in gardening stores.
succinic acid
This substance is not a fertilizer, but is used as aid to improve the absorption of nutrients from the soil by plants. The drug is available in the form of a water-soluble powder.
Wrong actions and their consequences
Rhododendrons are very sensitive to care. Even small inaccuracies in actions can lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness and health of these plants. This is especially true for the quality, quantity and timeliness of feeding shrubs.
Overdose
This is the mistake flower growers make most often, and its consequences for rhododendrons are the most dire. An excessive dose of fertilizer can burn the tender roots of a bush so much that it may be impossible to save the plant. If, as a result of an overdose of fertilizing, the situation has not yet reached a critical level and the flower is showing signs of life, it makes sense to urgently transplant it into a fresh substrate, treating the root system with Zircon according to the instructions. This measure is rare, but still helps rhododendron recover from chemical burns.
Unsuitable formulations
Fertilizers that reduce soil acidity should not be applied to rhododendrons. From such fertilizing, the flowers will slow down in development, will become sick and may die.
Compositions that have a different ratio of basic micro- and macroelements than the needs of shrubs are also unsuitable for rhododendrons. The use of such fertilizers will only harm vulnerable flowers.
Violation of the rules of care
Rhododendrons do not like:
- Spraying during the flowering period. Plants react to this procedure by darkening and subsequently dropping buds and inflorescences.
- Feeding during flowering. The answer to this manipulation is the same as in the previous case. While the plants are blooming, fertilizing is canceled completely.
- Applying fertilizer in hot weather or dry soil. As a result, the roots of the shrubs are affected by chemical burns, which in the future often leads to the death of the plants.
Feeding should only be done in the evening or early morning hours.
Maximum decorativeness from rhododendron or azalea cannot be achieved if the intricacies of organizing nutrition for these evergreen shrubs have not been mastered. High-quality and timely fertilizing easily ensures luxurious flowering and attractive appearance crops throughout the growing season.
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Valery Prokhorov 02/25/2014 | 11920
With a lack of nutrients in rhododendrons, the color of the leaves becomes light green, their shine decreases, and the shoots become yellowish-green. In addition, the annual growth of plants is significantly reduced, flower buds are not formed, and leaves fall rapidly in August and early September. How to deal with this disease?
The mineral nutrition of rhododendrons is largely determined by the peculiarity of their root system - the presence of mycorrhiza. It promotes not only the normal growth of plants on very acidic soils poor in mineral nutrition elements, but also the germination of their seeds. At the same time, for its normal functioning it requires acidic soil.
Due to the presence of mycorrhiza, you cannot use and chlorine fertilizers, because chlorine kills it. For the same reason, plants should not be fed with fertilizers of a high concentration of nutrient solution.
Therefore, when such signs appear, you must first pay attention to the acidity of the soil, and if it is within the range of 4.5-5.5 pH (ideally 4.7), optimize the diet.
Soil acidity can be increased by adding acidic sphagnum peat or heather soil. Accordingly, when growing rhododendrons, lime, dolomite flour and any fertilizers that alkalize the soil should not be added. With a strong change in pH towards the alkaline side, yellow spots (chlorosis) appear on the leaves.
Feeding. Important Feature rhododendrons - very compact root system. Therefore, plants need good drainage, loose, rich in humus, with good soil aeration. If in the first years, with a well-filled planting pit, rhododendron develops normally, then in subsequent years (with a complete absence of fertilizing or a lack thereof, the supply of nutrients is depleted and the acidity of the soil decreases) its decorative value decreases, and the plant may even die.
You need to feed in early spring and after flowering during intensive growth of young shoots. At the end of July, feeding is stopped, since the heat and humidity of the soil and air can provoke secondary growth of shoots that do not have time to complete growth.
And in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. You can stop it by spraying the crown with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K2SO4 or monosubstituted potassium phosphate KHPO4. Before any fertilizing, plants need to be watered abundantly. Organic fertilizers. Organic matter must be added in liquid, diluted form. The manure is diluted (1:15-20) and left for several days. In spring or autumn, humus can be spread out in a layer of up to 5 cm near the bush. Together with melt or rainwater, nutrients will enter the soil layer where the root system is located. In this case, they arrive over a long period of time and are therefore most fully absorbed by rhododendrons.
Mineral fertilizers. There are mineral fertilizers for rhododendrons. If they are absent, you can add ammonium nitrate (10-15 g/l) in early spring; before budding - complex fertilizer; at the end of August to increase winter hardiness - fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. The ratio used for feeding mineral fertilizers and water 1-2:1000 (solution potash fertilizers should be even weaker).
Sometimes (usually clay soils) leaves may also turn yellow as a result of the preferential entry of aluminum ions into plants instead of iron. Watering 2-3 times in summer with iron chelate usually restores the green color.
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Rhododendron is the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named after Greek words“rhodon” (“rose”) and “dendron” (“tree”) This genus includes about 1,300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.
Gardeners' interest in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of bush shapes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are captivated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.
Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas vary in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.
The autumn decoration of the leaves of some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to the bright decoration.
There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in central Russia it is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to follow a few simple rules common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that for climatic conditions middle zone Only suitable for Russia.
Choosing a place in the garden to plant rhododendron
To plant rhododendron, you should choose the most suitable place in the garden, taking into account the biological characteristics of this species. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.
The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in natural environment his habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there will be open sky(which will provide plants with better access to precipitation and light), and at midday they will be covered by diffuse shadow from other plants. Perfect option for rhododendron - a sparse pine forest or clearing located between tall pines.
Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees whose roots go deep. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) are not suitable for proximity to rhododendron, depriving the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition, which is why it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in case of forced planting of rhododendron in close proximity to unwanted trees, isolation from their roots must be provided. The feeding area of the rhododendron is insulated using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.
For growing rhododendrons, a place with north side buildings - where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.
When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the drying effects of the wind.
It is especially undesirable to place rhododendrons near the corners of buildings where there are strong drafts, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings. coniferous trees.
It is better to plant rhododendrons in an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.
Planting rhododendron
Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin preparing the seedling for planting.
Distance between bushes tall species rhododendron is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized - at least 1.2 m, low-growing - 0.5-0.7 m.
For good growth and lush flowering, rhododendrons need loose, acidic soil with a high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone.
The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (without taking into account the thickness of the layer of drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the adult plant. For example, for large bushes (Katevba rhododendron, yellow rhododendron), the hole should be at least 80 cm wide.
If garden soil clayey, then for the rhododendron seedling it is necessary to arrange drainage - for this, pour drainage layer(gravel or broken bricks) about 10 cm.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.
Substrate preparation is the most important component of successfully growing rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. These requirements are best met by a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, and coniferous tree litter (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting only of equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following substrate composition for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather soil (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or ripened;
- part of the garden soil;
- cow manure (rotted is better);
- pine litter;
- fertilizer “Kemira-universal” (100 g).
The rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops.
The rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate at the same depth as before.
When planting, do not cover the root collar of rhododendrons with soil! Because of this, plants stop blooming and eventually die.
We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut off very long ones).
We compact the substrate in the planting hole. After planting is complete, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.
Mulching trunk circle rhododendron is a must, this is a mandatory technique for this crop. Peat, pine litter, or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple and horse chestnut leaves; they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses weed growth; rotting, it increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the rhododendron tree trunk circle, you should not fill the root collar.
The first time after planting, a rhododendron seedling should be watered frequently in small portions (3 liters of water per young plant) for better rooting. Then water according to the weather. In dry times, it is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, during the dry period, you can pour the rhododendron bush “over the head” - over the leaves, but do not do this in the sun.
A young rhododendron seedling (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted directly in an open place, it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, replant, as expected, the grown rhododendron is already permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas tolerate transplantation well up to the age of 5-6 years.
The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or replanting them in the garden at any time in spring, summer and autumn due to their compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in the fall, it is advisable to lightly cover them with spruce branches (do not cover them with soil).
Caring for rhododendrons and azaleas
Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growing point on the branches, up to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.
In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas of the varieties “Northern Hi-Lights”, “Klondyke”, “Feuerwerk”
Feeding rhododendrons
Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional feeding for several years. However, if you want to speed up the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizers are applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.
Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.
There are a variety of liquid and granular fertilizers available that are designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the directions on the package.
You can use ordinary mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).
As an organic fertilizer for rhododendrons, we can recommend old, semi-rotted cow manure, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.
Azaleas and rhododendrons greatly appreciate monthly watering with sour water infused with ordinary water. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze out the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into water) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m in height).
Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 feeding - early in spring;
- 2nd feeding - before flowering;
- 3rd feeding - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring, fertilize rhododendrons with diluted mullein.
In summer - application of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to begin to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
In late autumn - add phosphorus and potassium.
Proper planting and proper care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, successful wintering and excellent flowering.
Plant rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including such popular azaleas in indoor floriculture, which have received the nickname “indoor rhododendron.” The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses". But azaleas really look like roses.
In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in Southern China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in the penumbra of undergrowth and on the northern slopes of mountains. Some rhododendrons are capable of growing up to 30 cm in height, while other species are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus differ in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. Garden rhododendron today has about 3,000 forms, varieties and varieties.
Choosing a place to plant shrubs
Choosing a place to plant rhododendron is a fundamental point for its further proper development. The plant is quite capricious, whimsical and makes its own demands on the level of lighting, humidity, soil composition and neighboring plants.
Rhododendrons love good lighting, but they cannot be exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, so light shading should be provided for them.
These plants should not be planted in too shady places; in this case, the already weak growth slows down, and flowering becomes weak or does not occur at all.
Due to the natural characteristics of rhododendrons, if possible they should be placed near a body of water (pond, stream, pool). If it is missing, then you need to spray the plant until it blooms; this should be done in the morning or evening hours using soft and warm water. During flowering, it should be stopped, as the buds and flowers may become covered with brown spots, which will significantly reduce their decorative value. At this time, you need to increase the number of waterings.
An excellent option would be to plant rhododendron close to a pine tree. Its root system goes deep into the soil and does not interfere good development and plant flowering. At the same time, it creates sufficient shading. But maple, alder, linden, willow or birch will greatly dry out and take nutrients from the surface layers of the soil, and it is quite difficult for rhododendron, which has a more modest size, to resist them. In such cases, it is recommended to carry out internal insulation of the prepared planting pit using non-woven covering material.
Landing Features
The best time to plant rhododendrons is spring. At spring planting plants get the opportunity to adapt well and take root in a new place. And you will have the opportunity to admire the first flowering. Plants with a closed root system (in a container) can be planted at a later date.
Planting holes are prepared in advance at the selected location. The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so even for tall species it is enough to dig a hole about 50 cm deep and 70-80 cm wide. The distance between plants depends on the height and diameter of the crown of the bush and averages from 0.7 to 2 m. Drainage to the bottom holes are required: a layer of broken brick and sand of 15-20 cm, if the planting hole is deep, then the drainage layer increases to 30 - 40 cm and includes fine gravel or crushed stone (but not limestone!).
It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. Therefore, the garden substrate must be appropriate: a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, coniferous tree litter (3:2:1) with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer: 70 g per hole. Optimal soil acidity is 4.5 – 5.0.
Before planting, the rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops. The bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate, making sure that the root collar is not buried, but is 2-4 cm higher than the soil level, taking into account its settlement. Make a hole around the bush with raised edges and water it abundantly.
Rhododendrons have a shallow, sensitive root system (30-40 cm), which develops mainly in the litter and humus horizon. Therefore, mulching material must be poured around the planted bushes to retain moisture, prevent overheating of the soil and the growth of weeds, protect the roots from mechanical damage, and reduce the depth of soil freezing. The best mulch is pine bark or wood chips, pine litter, peat, and the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm.
Plant care
The transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular, abundant watering, rhododendron requires foliar spraying, especially when planting in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to retain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.
The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, thin hairs, similar to matted hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds that grow near the plant must be removed periodically.
The appearance of the plant will immediately indicate a lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering must be carried out in sufficient quantities, but without overflowing; this is one of the main rules for caring for crops.
To ensure proper care of rhododendron, it is important to carry out timely pruning of overgrown bushes. To prevent infection of the plant, the cut areas are covered with paint or garden varnish.
Compliance with simple plant care requirements will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush. 
Watering rhododendron
The usual watering rate for rhododendron is 1-1.5 buckets two to three times a week under mature plant. Young seedlings are watered more often, but not more than 0.5 buckets per bush. During flowering - more often.
If the weather is dry in the fall, the plants should also be watered abundantly. This promotes better wintering. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are sprayed with water.
The water should be acidified before watering: the pH of the water should be no more than 4-5 units, otherwise the soil becomes alkalized and the rhododendrons begin to hurt. Under such conditions, they experience nitrogen deficiency, which manifests itself as yellowing of the leaves. Then they dry out and the plant dies.
For acidification, you can use concentrated sulfuric acid (1 ml per bucket of water) or oxalic, citric, acetic or other organic acids (3-4 g per bucket of water).
A good solution to this problem is to use electrolyte for acid batteries. 10-20 ml of electrolyte per bucket of water reduces pH from 7 to 4-5 units (electrolyte is the same sulfuric acid, only diluted, and therefore there is virtually no risk of burns).
Secondly, using an electrolyte, we not only acidify the soil, but also introduce one of the vital mineral nutrition elements for heathers - sulfur.
The soil near rhododendron bushes should not be loosened, since the root system of rhododendrons lies very close to the surface.
Late spring and early autumn frosts are not dangerous for rhododendrons. Most varieties during the period of active growing and flowering are able to withstand temperatures down to -7 degrees. Faded inflorescences must be removed. This prevents the formation of seeds, but allows the plant to use nutrients to set buds for flowering next year and for the growth of shoots.
At a young age, removing inflorescences causes the formation of new branches and better growth of the bush in width and height. Additional branching can be achieved by removing vegetative buds.
Feeding rhododendron.
You need to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted in this year, and the first feeding is applied in early spring, and the last one at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid fertilizers made from semi-rotted cow dung, horn flour. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then used as fertilizer. Before applying fertilizing, the rhododendron is watered.
Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, nitrate, potassium sulfate or phosphate, calcium sulfate and magnesium sulfate in a very weak concentration - 1.2:1000, as mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potassium fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the application of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added per 1 m².
Pests and diseases of rhododendron.
Of the pests that bother rhododendrons the most are mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bedbugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs. Gastropods are collected by hand, and as a preventive measure, rhododendron is treated with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Thiram. Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, and weevils are destroyed by treating with diazinon, and if the rhododendron is damaged by the weevil, it will also be necessary to treat the insecticide with the insecticide. upper layer soil. The remaining insects are exterminated with karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the drug. 
The most common diseases that plague rhododendrons are fungal diseases - leaf spot, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They usually arise as a result of poor root aeration. Spots and rust are destroyed with drugs copper sulfate, in particular Bordeaux mixture. Chlorosis, which causes rhododendron to turn yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove diseased shoots or cut them back to healthy tissue; in addition, it is necessary to preventive treatments rhododendron with Bordeaux mixture in early spring and late autumn.
Peculiarities of propagation of rhododendron shrubs
Rhododendrons are propagated using cuttings, green layering, seeds, or simply dividing an overgrown bush.
Cuttings are carried out in early summer. To do this, cut the required number of cuttings about fifteen centimeters long and remove the lower leaves from them. After this, they are placed for a day in a container with a growth stimulator solution. They are then rooted in soil substrate, which includes coniferous soil, peat and coarse sand in equal parts. After that they are covered glass jars and placed in a bright room with an air temperature of at least twenty-five degrees. After two to three months, the seedlings will develop a root system and in the spring they can be planted in the garden to a permanent place of growth.
For this method For reproduction, you need to dig a hole in the spring next to the adult plant to a depth of about fifteen centimeters. Tilt the young shoot and secure its middle part in the hole, for example, with wire. Then you need to fill it with soil, and top part tie to a small stick. Usually in the fall the cuttings take root and begin to grow. Next spring it must be separated from the main plant and replanted.
An overgrown rhododendron bush can be divided into parts and planted in separate planting holes. With proper care, such plants produce a large number of young shoots after a year, branch well, quickly gain decorative properties and bloom.
Seed propagation is rarely used, since this is a very complex and lengthy process. You have to wait at least three years for the formation of a full-fledged plant and the onset of the first flowering, making many transplants of young seedlings during this time. Moreover, if they are not constantly monitored proper care, they may produce deformed or weakened seedlings.
Wintering in open ground
In order to preserve rhododendrons in winter, they need to create appropriate shelter. First you need to insulate the roots of the plant. To do this, create a protective layer of peat or dry leaves about fifteen centimeters thick. Then arches are installed over the bushes and covered with non-woven covering material. After the air temperature reaches minus ten degrees, the shelter is covered with a thick film and secured again with arcs on top. If possible, you can later fill the structure with snow.
With the onset of spring, the shelter is removed, but this must be done gradually. It can be removed completely only after the soil has warmed up well and preferably on a cloudy day so that the bright sun does not burn the tender young leaves. Compliance with these wintering conditions guarantees good growth and very abundant flowering.
Rhododendrons in garden design
Rhododendrons are suitable for decorating any style of garden. They look equally good growing as single specimens or as part of a group composition. A good combination for them could be conifers and plants that are common in wildlife, for example, juniper or fern.
Low-growing species with different flowering periods can be decorated alpine coaster and rocky gardens. In this case, rhododendron plantings are well suited to the proximity of heather and gentian.
Hedges are formed from taller bushes and trees. They ennoble garden paths and lawns. In this case, for rhododendrons with yellow flowers, plants with red or bright orange buds are suitable as companions. But specimens with pink or purple inflorescences will be effectively shaded by plants with white flowers.
Useful properties of rhododendron
Rhododendron is very useful plant and its uses are varied. They are grown as decorative flowers and used in various industries. But some of them have the most invaluable importance for human health. Rhododendrons of Adams, Daurian, golden, yellow, Caucasian, Ungern are used in medicine due to the content of andromedotoxin, rhododendrin, ericolin, arbutin. Many years of research have shown that the biochemical composition of these plants is enormous.
Ascorbic acid was found in the leaves, increased concentration of this vitamin is observed in the summer months. The undeniable advantages are the presence of phytoncidal, bactericidal and insecticidal properties of rhododendrons. Almost all parts contain tannins of the pyrocatechol group. There is no doubt that plants are unique and many of them have medicinal properties; in addition, they are used to produce perfumes; they contain essential oils, have a strong smell of flowers, leaves and branches.
Remedies with rhododendron have antipyretic, diaphoretic, and analgesic properties. The composition of the leaves is not so harmless - tannins, arbutin, rutin, and a poisonous glycoside (andromedotoxin) require special care in their use. Almost all types of rhododendrons choose cliffs, rocky slopes, and sandy river banks for habitat. They are harvested during the flowering period, dried under a canopy, laid out in a thin layer.
Contraindications for rhododendron
Rhododendrons are able to cope with diseases for which treatment by other methods is ineffective. It is advisable to consult a doctor before use. The beneficial properties of infusions and decoctions will have a beneficial effect only if the dosage is strictly observed! The plant is contraindicated for children, pregnant women, tissue necrosis, and serious kidney diseases.
Rhododendron varieties
Highly decorative woody plants, incredibly graceful, rich in flower color and flowering splendor. Numbers about 1300 wild species, and more than 600 varieties are used in gardening. Rhododendrons are extraordinary when they bloom. Only a few types are known to have healing properties.
Rhododendron Daurian grows wild in Siberia and Far East. Its height can reach 2 m, has short leaves, and blooms in May. Siberian healers prescribe an infusion of leaves as a diaphoretic, diuretic, and analgesic. The ability of the infusion to reduce the excitability of the central nervous system, increased cardiac activity.
With its help, it is possible to lower blood pressure, it has a dilating effect on the coronary vessels, and regulates difficulty breathing. Rhododendron dahurian root is used for dysentery. The substances hyperosil, avicularin, azaleatin, resins and essential oils in alcohol extracts have a depressing effect on the activity of pathogenic bacteria and infections in the human body.
Adams rhododendron popular among Siberian hunters, brewed tea from the leaves lifts the mood, relieves fatigue, tones and provides energy.
The plant has a pleasant aroma, similar to strawberry; after drying, the smell persists. Adams rhododendron is mentioned in Tibetan treatises as a stimulant plant with tonic and adaptive properties. Essential oil containing farnesene, nerolidol, germacron is present in the leaves.
Young shoots contain ursolic and oleanolic acids, triterpenoids and flavone derivatives. Mongolian healers recommended the plant for the treatment of cholera, diphtheria and for the destruction of streptococci. Infusions and decoctions are used for external use - washing infected wounds, ulcers, and rinsing the mouth and throat.
Rhododendron Adams infusion: pour 1 teaspoon of raw material with a liter of boiling water, leave for 30 minutes and drink 1/3 cup 3 times a day, before meals.
Japanese rhododendron low bush, winter-hardy. Blooms in May-June. There are many varieties of this species. Parts of the plant contain andromedotoxin, orsellinic acid methyl ester. This type of plant is studied in detail while it is used for making furniture, carpentry and turning.
Caucasian rhododendron grows in nature in the Caucasus Mountains, glycosides, saponins, and tannins are identified in it. The leaves also contain polysaccharides, ketones, essential oils, and phenolic acids. Healers use Caucasian rhododendron as an antirheumatic remedy. Bronchitis is successfully treated, infectious diseases. The beneficial properties of this species are used in gynecology. Extracts in water in the form of rinses are effective for problems with gums, for the treatment of sore throat, stomatitis. Caucasian rhododendron is an excellent honey plant.
Rhododendron deciduous has many types: Canadian, Ledebura, Japanese, costerianum, pink, sticky, Vazea, yellow. During the flowering period, any of them decorates the gardens bright colors. Incomparable rhododendrons bloom in spring and early summer, mesmerizing with an abundance of flowers.
Rhododendron hybrid includes many evergreen varieties - Azurro, Homer Waterer, Katevbinsky, Hackmanns, Bernstein, Brigitte, Golbuket and many others. The bushes bloom in June.
Rhododendron Schlippenbach grows in the south of Primorsky Krai, in the countries of East Asia. This beautiful deciduous plant, living in deciduous forests and on dry rocky slopes, takes root well in gardens, although it grows slowly. In addition to the fact that the bush is incredibly beautiful, it is also useful. medicinal plant which is highly valued in Eastern, Tibetan, and Indian medicine.
Currently, its narcotic, antispasmodic, hemostatic, astringent effect is known. Applicable in folk medicine as a sexual stimulant and diuretic.
Rhododendron pink native to Canada, winter-hardy, unpretentious. It develops well in both humid and dry climates and is a deciduous variety. Loves bright places, slightly acidic, loose soils. Although the flowers are small, there are many of them and they form a lush cap.
Golden rhododendron, perhaps more often than other types, it is used in the treatment of many diseases. It is used for insomnia and nervousness. An infusion from the plant relieves swelling, headaches, and relaxes muscles during convulsive manifestations.
Rhododendron infusion recipe: 2 g of dry crushed raw materials are poured into a thermos, poured with 1 glass of boiling water and left for 2 hours. The strained drink is consumed 1 tablespoon 2-3 times a day.
Russian botanist I. Gmelin noted that a decoction of the leaves helps relieve fatigue and muscle pain during treks in the mountains. In patients with cardiovascular insufficiency, when taking tincture from the plant, an increase in blood flow speed is observed, and heart function is normalized.
Rhododendron tincture recipe: fill 1/5 of the glass container with raw materials and fill to the top with alcohol or vodka. Leave for two weeks. Drink 10-15 drops, diluting with water (0.5 cup).
Indoor rhododendron has a shallow root system, so it is advisable to grow it in wide, shallow pots. Like all rhododendrons, it loves an acidic environment, well-drained soil rich in humus and potassium. In summer, the plant should be kept in a shady corner of the balcony without drafts, regularly spraying the leaves.