There are numerous diseases and pests of apricot. Having attacked a plant, they can leave the owner without a harvest, and sometimes completely destroy the tree. It is important to recognize the symptoms of their appearance at the earliest stages in order to take timely measures.
Diseases
Apricot diseases are divided into viral, bacterial and fungal.
Bacteria and viruses attack the tree from the inside. Such apricot diseases provoke a change in the color of the leaves, their drying out, and rotting of the fruit. Phytopathogenic fungi feed on the organic matter of the affected plant, which leads to its drying out. The mycelium is located inside the leaves or other parts of the tree, and a fluffy coating appears on their surface.
Let's look at common diseases of apricot trees and their treatment.
Moniliosis
The disease has two forms.
Monilial burn occurs during the flowering period. He is being provoked warm winter and wet spring. The flowers rot, then the wood turns brown and dies. As a result, all the flower branches dry out. As part of the fight, the infected parts of the plant are removed, and the tree is treated with Bordeaux mixture (3%) or copper oxychloride (0.9%).
In summer, due to fruit rot, brown spots with a white coating appear on apricots. They expand, covering the entire fruit. As a result, the apricots wither and rot. Treatment procedures include spraying with Bordeaux mixture, Nitrafen, Confidor and Horus. An iodine solution (5%) is also used: 10 ml per 10 liters of water. Iodine solution is most effective as a prophylactic agent.
As a preventative measure, timely pruning and fertilizing are needed ( boric acid, manganese solution, etc.)
Fusarium
Slightly depressed brown-gray spots appear on the leaves and then the fruits. The apricot skin wrinkles and the flesh dries out. The disease affects weakened or damaged trees, so it is important to comply with agrotechnical requirements and fertilize, for example, with boric acid. How to treat a tree to save it? Use Fitosporin-M, Mikosan-V or Trichodermin.
Cytosporosis
If the leaves have wilted on the tops of the shoots and brown streaks have appeared on the bark, it is most likely cytosporosis. The infection spreads from young branches to old ones, and eventually the entire tree can dry out. Treatment of cytosporosis is possible only in the early stages. Drying branches are cut off, including healthy tissue. The wound is treated with garden varnish. Preventative sanitary pruning and treatment with antifungal drugs (for example, “Hom”) are important. Don't forget about fertilizing (boric acid, etc.).
Verticillium
Novice gardeners sometimes have a question: why did the leaves on the apricots turn yellow and begin to fall off in early June? The cause may be verticillium. Because of it, almost all leaves, with the exception of a few bunches, can fall off over the summer. To diagnose, you need to cut one branch and look at the cut: shapeless brown spots, sometimes merging into a ring, indicate the disease. By the way, they can appear without the leaves falling off.
The second question: how to treat this disease? The drugs “Topsin-M”, “Vitaros”, “Glyokladin”, “Rovral” are suitable.
Clusterosporiasis
Clusterosporiosis is also called hole spot of apricot. Small round spots appear on the leaves. Soon they dry out and fall out, which is why sheet plates a lot of holes appear. When severely damaged, the apricot sheds holey leaves. Also, due to clasterosporia blight, growths oozing gum appear on the apricot tree, the fruits become covered with holes and become deformed.
Clusterosporiosis can be noticed in the spring: the gum that appears on the sprouts fills part of the buds, they darken and do not bloom. Inspect the plant more often, since it is more likely to get rid of clasterosporiasis in the early stages. To do this, use Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate (1%). All parts of the plant affected by clasterosporiasis are removed.
Valsa fungus
Spores enter the plant through untreated wounds. The disease causes ulcers to appear on the bark, usually amber-yellow in color. Often the disease occurs due to incorrect or untimely (for example, during the dormant period) pruning. To cure a plant, it is recommended to treat it with the drug “Switch” (10 g per 10 liters of water) once every 7–10 days. A few weeks before harvest, treatments are stopped.
Leaf curl
There is another reason why apricot leaves turn yellow - leaf curl.
Due to the disease, yellowed areas appear on the apricot leaves, which darken to a dark red color. The leaves curl and become deformed, and red tumors appear on them. Leaves and fruits fall off en masse. Young shoots become deformed.
If the leaves turn red, you should immediately remove all affected branches. Preparations containing copper will help save the plant from death. Important proper care behind the tree, including fertilizing (boric acid, etc.)
Brown leaf spot
Another reason why leaves turn yellow.
The yellowing first appears as small, blurry spots. These areas grow, turn red, darken and take over the entire leaf. As a result, the affected leaves fall off. Infected fruits become deformed and often fall before ripeness.
To cope with yellowing, after removing the affected areas, the tree and the soil underneath are treated with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate (1%) or Nitrafen.
Bacterial necrosis
This infection is also called bacterial cancer, and this is one of the most dangerous diseases of apricots.
First on different parts black spots appear on the plants. Gradually they increase. On the black areas, gum-like ulcers appear. The bark turns brown and dies.
Infected branches should be cut off, taking some healthy tissue, and burned. Treat the wood with Phytolavin. If the plant could not be saved, dig up the soil on which it grew with bleach (200 g per 1 sq. m).
Gum treatment
If the gum is leaking for a reason other than those listed above (no other symptoms), the problem may lie in unsuitable climate, weather or soil. After removing the gum, cut off the dead tissue, treat the cut with copper sulfate (1%) or a preparation containing iodine, and coat it with varnish. Do not forget about agrotechnical requirements and fertilizers (boric acid, iodine fertilizer, etc.).
If the reason is an excess of lime in the soil, watering with a light solution of potassium permanganate during the season will help.
Scab
Scab is one of the common diseases of apricots. First signs: dark green spots on the foliage, which are usually round in shape. Soon they darken to Brown. As they spread, they can capture the entire leaf, after which it dries out and falls off. Infected shoots dry out. Hard gray or brown spots appear on the fruit.
What to do if the first symptoms of the disease are detected? Use copper-containing preparations or systemic fungicides (Hom, Topsin-M, Skor).
Pests
The next point is common apricot pests and how to combat them.
Aphid
Let's look at how to fight aphids on apricots.
In case of severe infestation, you can save the tree from aphids using chemicals(“Fitoverm”, “Aktofit”, “Fufanon”, “Aktara”).
codling moth
A small butterfly whose caterpillar damages fruits. The larvae usually overwinter in a cocoon, tree trunk circle or cracks in wood. The infected plant is treated with Entobacterin (0.5%) or Chlorophos (0.2%). Also make hunting belts from corrugated paper, burlap or duct tape.
leaf roller
A small beige-brown insect. Caterpillars eat buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots. To combat, remove leaves that have curled (they contain pupating larvae). Spraying is carried out with “Fitoverm” or “Akarin”, in case of severe infection - with pyrethroids.
Comma scale insect
An insect measuring 3–4 mm in the shape of a comma (tapered towards the tail). The brown shield looks like a growth on a tree. They feed on tree sap, which causes them to dry out. For the winter, the female lays eggs under the scutellum, which becomes dark brown in color, and dies. The larvae hatch in spring at +8 °C. Pesticides are used for treatment (Fufanon, Calypso, Aktara, etc.), and biological preparations are Fitoverm.
Glassware
A butterfly with transparent wings that lays eggs near the buds. The larva chews a hole in the bark and moves along the core of the branch, eating it. Naturally, the branch dies. For the fight they use “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Lepidotsid”. Keep an eye on young shoots, cutting them off if they dry out.
Fruit striped moth
Butterfly with dark gray wings. Caterpillars eat buds, fruits and cores of young shoots. In the spring, “DNOC” (1%) or “Nitrafen” (3%) is used for control. A week after the end of flowering, you can spray the plant with Karbofos (0.3%), Metathion (0.15%) or Metaphos (0.2%).
Video “Diseases of fruit trees”
From this video you will learn about what diseases occur in fruit trees and how to treat them.
Gone are the days when summer cottages we collected apricots in buckets. For many years in a row, the trees delight the eye during flowering, but literally after a week the flowers become as if scorched by fire and dry up. And if a dozen fruits remain on the tree before ripening, then this is good luck. What is happening to our apricots?
Most amateur gardeners consider this to be a consequence of early spring frosts; apricot, as luck would have it, usually blooms when temperatures are very unstable and range from positive to negative.
The disease manifests itself in two forms - in the form of monilial burn and gray fruit rot.
Monilial burn is a spring form of the disease, which most often leaves us without a harvest. When affected by monilia, the flower petals turn brown and dry out, but do not fall off like petals healthy plants. Then the leaves, young fruit branches and annual shoots wither and dry out. Cracks appear on the bark of thick branches, which gradually turn into wounds with abundantly secreted gum. The tree takes on the appearance of being burned by fire, hence the name - monilial burn.
In the summer, 2-5 new shoots grow from the base of the dead shoot, which also die the following spring.
Gray fruit rot appears during fruit ripening. Initially, small brown spots appear on them, which gradually cover the entire fruit, forming many ash-gray pads of sporulation of the fungus merging together. Over time, the fruits shrink, dry out, fall off, or partially remain on the tree as a source of infection for next year.
How do trees become infected?
The mycelium overwinters in the tissues of affected shoots and branches, as well as in mummified fruits that remain overwintering on trees. During flowering, sporulation of the fungus develops on the affected parts of the tree in the form of gray powdery pads.
It is the spores that are the source of the spread of infection. With the help of wind, rain, and insects, they fall on the pistil and stamens of flowers, where, under favorable conditions, they germinate, forming a mycelium. It, spreading through the peduncle, reaches the branch and spreads further along the bark, causing it to crack and become gumy. Under favorable conditions, the mycelium can penetrate further down to the skeletal branches, causing their death.
Monilia usually thrives in cold, damp weather. At high humidity air and a temperature of 10-11 C and below, a mass of spores is formed, which scatter throughout the garden. And if it rains and is foggy during the flowering period of stone fruits, the disease can destroy the entire crop. What we see in last years.
Monilia is not limited to a sharp decrease in yield and severe weakening of trees. Plants affected by it are more easily infected with other diseases, for example, cytosporosis, which causes complete drying out of trees.
To chop or not to chop?
Disappointed in the possibility of obtaining a harvest, many summer residents began to destroy apricot trees. This is a wrong, cowardly decision.
Trees should not be cut down, but rejuvenated by pruning skeletal branches into 4-5 year old wood. New growth is usually free from monilia. If the plants are properly protected in the future, annual harvests can be obtained.
Abicot protection
The disease persists mainly in the affected plant organs, as well as in mummified fruits, which are the source of infection during the next growing season.
When fighting it, you need to cut out and burn the affected branches soon after flowering, when the “burnt” branches are clearly visible in the crown. Cut off the dried wood, capturing 5-10 cm of healthy wood below the affected area.
Sections larger than 2 cm must be covered with garden varnish or oil paint. Late autumn or in early spring remove and destroy mummified fruits affected by monilial fruit rot.
A preventive measure against moniliosis is also whitewashing the trunks and skeletal branches with lime and copper sulfate in late autumn and early spring. Recently, quite a lot of notes from specialists on protecting plants from monilia have appeared in specialized publications. It is noted that with a one-time spraying of any of the preparations it is impossible to protect trees from this insidious disease. For this purpose, protection systems using various fungicides have been developed.
Preventive treatments for apricot
If the garden is heavily infested, they must be started in the fall, at the end of October, using preparations such as 3% Bordeaux mixture, 3-4% iron sulfate, 5% carbamide (urea), cuproxate. (50 ml per 10 liters of water).
The first early spring spraying is recommended to be carried out before the buds begin to open at a temperature not lower than 5 "C, with 3% Bordeaux mixture (less often - 1%), 3-4% iron sulfate (if not used in the fall), cuproxate (50 ml per 10 liters of water) or 1% copper sulfate.
The main treatment against moniliosis is aimed at preventing infection of flowers and is recommended in the pink bud phase. Until recently, the main drug during this period was 1% (less often 3%) Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride (0.3%). Today, the arsenal of drugs has expanded significantly. Scientists recommend per 10 liters of water: Skor-250, EC k.e. - 1.5-2ml, Saprol, e.g. 10-20 ml, Vectra, k.e. -3 ml, Strobi, 50% c. g. - 3 g. Since 2002, to combat moniliosis on apricots, as well as peach curl, the drug Xopyc 75WY, v.g., -2-Zg per 10 liters of water, has been approved in amateur gardens.
After flowering
If precipitation occurs, you should not delay spraying. In dry weather, spraying should be carried out at the time of fruit set (after the first damage to the ovary by fruit-damaging pests - goose and codling moth). In this case, it is necessary to use a mixture of one of the fungicides used in the main treatment with the Arrivo insecticide, 25% a.e. -1.5 ml per 10 liters of water. When using protective equipment in the summer, you must remember the timing of the last treatment before harvest.
Is it possible to get rid of moniliosis?
Given the prevailing infectious background in dacha plots, this is only possible in two cases.
Second: growing apricot varieties resistant to moniliosis on the plot. Unfortunately, there are practically no varieties that are absolutely resistant to moniliosis. Pineapple Tsyurupinsky and Melitopol early are characterized by increased resistance to monilia.
In recent years, information has appeared that the Institute of Irrigated Horticulture of the UAA has created promising varieties that are resistant to moniliosis: Melitopolsky 12908, Zoryany, Mlievsky Radiant, Fortuna, Seyanets Krasnoshchekogo.
Help save the apricot. There are a lot of ovaries, but I can’t remove a single kilogram of fruit, they all rot. And skeletal branches in wounds from. Maybe something to treat in the fall so as not to leave a sick tree for the winter?
The tree is clearly weakened, and it is difficult to cope with two diseases at once. Moreover, gray fruit rot infection persists in summer and winter. The causative agent of the disease, when there are apricots on the tree, infects them through damage to the skin, as well as through close contact of diseased and healthy fruits. The fungus waits out the winter on the affected fruits, if they remain on the tree or under it, as well as on the leaves.
Both in the summer and now it is necessary to take all measures to destroy the source of infection. This means that diseased fruits should be collected and buried as they appear; diseased carrion and leaves should not be left under the tree.
If drying shoots appear, then you need to cut them off, taking a little healthy tissue. It is recommended not only to disinfect the cut sites, as well as wounds from gum deposition, with a 1% solution copper sulfate, as you did, but also cover it with garden pitch or a mixture of clay and mullein, taken in equal proportions. Before closing the wounds from infection, it would be good to treat them by rubbing them several times during the day with the leaves of common sorrel or even horse sorrel.
Gum secretion on skeletal branches, most likely developed against the background of the first illness. Freezing of the bark could also have a great influence, sunburn, excessive waterlogging of the soil, excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers.
Apricots should be protected from all this. For example, after treating and covering up the wounds, try to whiten the trunk and the bases of the skeletal branches with lime milk with the addition of clay for the winter. This will protect the bark from freezing.
The same measure will be needed in early spring; it will help the bark resist sunburn. In the spring, it will be necessary to continue work to protect apricots from gray fruit rot. Before flowering, immediately after it and about a month after this, it is advisable to spray the tree with 1 percent Bordeaux mixture.
Apricot fruit spotting, rot.
Our apricots have a lot of ovary, but there is a serious concern - will it turn into juicy fruit? Last year, the apricots, at the height of their ripening, suddenly began to become stained and rot, and then completely dried out. What are the diseases of apricots and how to save the harvest?
With a high degree of probability, your Apricots are affected by fruit spotting. This disease is very unpleasant. It not only reduces the taste of apricots and spoils them appearance, but also prevents the trees themselves from truly developing.
She most clearly and with the utmost severity declares her presence in the garden when the apricots begin to fill up, i.e. ripen. The attitude on our part must be irreconcilable - no concessions and even weak hopes that everything will somehow work out by itself. Unfortunately, this did not happen for you.
But in order to rid the tree of the disease or at least reduce its harmful effect, it was necessary take advice from experts and spray the apricot with Bordeaux mixture over the raspberry cone, i.e. before they bloom.
To prepare it, you should take 300 g of copper sulfate and the same amount of lime per ten liters of water. But it seems you didn't. In the summer, you cannot use Bordeaux mixture on apricots. Therefore, try to use the drug cuproxate (50 ml per ten liters of water) or quick (2 ml per the same volume of water). After harvesting, you will need to carefully collect all the dried fruits, burn them or bury them deeply.
Disease - apricot branches dry out.
This spring, a branch on an apricot tree withered, and a few days later the bark on the trunk swelled and burst. We literally nurtured our trees, watering, spraying and applying fertilizer in the fall. Last year they produced a bountiful harvest.
It seems, Apricots are drying out. It is widespread and is caused by fungi and bacteria or a combination of factors. The latter include excessive action high temperatures last summer and the harsh subsequent winter, into which the apricots entered weakened due to abundant fruiting.
Experience shows that such trees can be saved. True, this is difficult to do if drying occurs, say, due to incompatibility of the rootstock and scion. It is necessary to immediately remove the dried branch, cutting it down to healthy tissue, and immediately burn it. The wound on the trunk must be cleaned, capturing 3-4 cm of healthy tissue. Both the cut and the wound on the trunk should be disinfected with 1% copper sulfate (10 g per 1 liter of water) and covered with garden pitch or clay with mullein, taken in a 1:1 ratio.
You can treat the wound and fresh leaves sorrel, rubbing it repeatedly after 5-10 minutes, i.e. as the juice dries. In the fall after the leaves fall and in the spring, when the buds are opening, it will be necessary to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture. When caring for an apricot, you need to remember that it does not like waterlogging of the soil, excessive doses of nitrogen fertilizers, close proximity to strawberries, nightshade crops, from which it can acquire a number of diseases.
Growing tasty and juicy apricots in your garden is quite difficult. Need to know. Blooming green crown fruit tree may suddenly turn limp and yellow. If the leaves of an apricot wither, this is the first signal that the plant needs help. In this case, immediate action is required to avoid the spread of the cause of the disease to the fruits.
Causes of foliage wilting
The main reasons for the lethargy of the apricot crown include 4 factors:
Pest infestation
Another lover of apricot leaves are leaf rollers. Butterflies very quickly cause greenery to wilt. Used to control insects effective remedy Chlorophos. Chemical drug can only be used after harvesting apricots. If it is necessary to carry out treatment during fruiting, apply an infusion of garlic. To prevent damage to the bark by rodents, the trunk is regularly whitewashed to a height of 1 meter.
Diseases
Various diseases cause apricot leaves to wither . Moniliosis infection is common. The fungus appears in damp, rainy weather, when spring days are quite cool. There are two types of fungal symptoms. IN spring period looks like a burn, summer looks like rot gray. At the initial stage, the crown acquires a brown tint, then dries out and falls off. Then the disease spreads to young shoots and manifests itself in the form of cracks in the bark. The advanced stage affects the condition of the fruit. To fight infection, all damaged areas must be removed. Treat sore spots with garden varnish. As a preventative measure after harvest, . A special preparation is used to irrigate the crown.
Diseases of apricot crops include a soil fungus, the causative agent of verticillium. The damage can spread to all the trees in the garden. First of all, the fungus has a negative effect on root system. Infection occurs from insects that carry the infection. The supply of nutrients is stopped. The foliage turns yellow, the shoots dry out. If the disease is not noticed in the early stages, it will lead to complete loss of the harvest and death of the tree. From the first days of the lesion, spraying with Fundazol or Topsin - M is carried out.
Another dangerous disease is clasterosporiasis. Symptoms appear as brown spots on the foliage. At later stages, holes form in place of the spots, and the bark of the branches becomes covered with multiple cracks. Damaged areas should be removed from the tree immediately. To preserve the culture, treatment is carried out with 4% Bordeaux mixture. An alternative is to use Chorus. The drug is diluted in water, 3 g per ten-liter bucket.
To preserve the harvest, when the first symptoms of the disease are detected, you should quickly and efficiently treat sick plant. Preventive measures will protect not only apricots, but also other plants from various infections. Fruits grown in your own garden are much tastier and will bring great benefits to the whole family.
Thanks to the activities of breeders, the southern apricot tree has taken root in gardens in temperate climates. But in order for a tree to grow healthy, it requires special attention and care, as it is too susceptible to various diseases. It is not easy to recognize the symptoms of apricot disease, determine the type of disease, much less treat them.
Types of apricot tree diseases
Experts divide stone fruit diseases into 3 groups – fungal, bacterial and viral.
- Fungal infections are the result of infection of a tree with spores of various fungi. Once on the leaves and bark, they take root, feed and reproduce at the expense of the tree.
- During bacterial and viral diseases, the tree becomes sick under the influence of tiny pathogens. They enter the plant from the soil and penetrate into the wood. The symptoms of an invisible attack are the hardest to notice.
Mushrooms love humid environment. Therefore, rainy weather and excessive waterlogging stimulate the development of the disease. Spores are carried by the wind and insects (leaf roller, moth, moth, weevil).
There are several main types of fungal diseases. Each has its own unique symptoms that need to be noticed and taken in time. 
The main types of fungal diseases and their symptoms
- Moniliosis. If in the spring in cold weather you saw dried leaves at the ends of the branches, blackened, drying out and cracked branches, that the bark on the apricot was cracked, like after a fire, fallen flower buds, these are symptoms of a monilial burn. Spores of the fungus Monilia (Monilia) enter the flower through the pistil, first infecting the flowers and then the entire tree.
- Fruit rot. The tree becomes infected with the same spores as with moniliosis. Before harvesting, literally a few weeks before, mass rotting of apricots begins. A small light brown spot on the skin gradually enlarges until the entire fruit rots. The fruit is covered with a gray coating, and on top of it you can see a cluster of white spores.
- Gnomoniosis (brown spot) first affects the leaves. Spots appear on them yellow color. Gradually the leaves turn red and dry after reddening. The tree is weakening. The fruits fall off before they have time to ripen, or under the influence of the fungus they become distorted, acquiring an ugly shape.
- Clusterosporiosis of apricot. When examining the leaves of a tree affected by hole spot, you will notice a scattering of brown spots. Next to the stains you will see small holes. Young shoots are affected by the disease. When they crack, they ooze sticky juice—gum. The causative agent of clasterosporiasis is the spores of the fungus Cercospora cerasella, Phyllosticta prunicola.
- Valsa mushroom. You can notice the onset of the disease by orange growths on the tree bark. They resemble in appearance a human ulcer. Fungal spores enter the wood through cuts after pruning branches, cultivating, and through cracks after frost.
- Vertical wilt (verticillium wilt). The first signs are untimely yellowing of the leaves of the lower branches. The fungus grows inside the tree. Infected leaves fall off, decompose in the soil and infect new plants when they fall on a cut. To correctly diagnose the disease, the branch is cut and examined cross section. Brown spots can be seen on a diseased tree irregular shape, light and dark.
- Apricot leaf curl. Under the influence of tafrin fungus spores, one of the most dangerous diseases of stone fruit crops develops. It can be diagnosed by the leaves, the color of which gradually changes from yellow to dark red. Then swollen reddish formations appear and the shape of the leaf becomes distorted.
- Stone scab. On the leaves after blooming you can see dark green round spots. Gradually they change color to gray-brown and become hard. Can cover the entire sheet. The leaves begin to dry out and fall off. A plaque appears on the fruit due to the action of the fungus. The appearance of the fruit, the quality of the pulp, and the taste deteriorate.
- Fusarium drying out (fusarium). The development of the disease can be determined by the leaves on which gray-brown spots appear, slightly depressed in nature. The action of the fungus also affects the fruits. Spots also appear on them, the skin becomes wrinkled, and the flesh underneath is dry. Spores enter the tree from the soil, penetrating through cracks and cuts.
- Cytosporosis drying out (cytosporosis). A very serious, poorly treatable disease. Its onset can be determined by the branches and tips of the shoots, which suddenly dry out at the beginning of summer. The bark takes on a brown tint, and wounds appear that ooze gum. Black tubercles of the fungus gradually cover the bark. Next year, a black growth will appear in this place - a mushroom that has grown into the tissue of the tree. Fungal spores during cytosporosis penetrate through cuts and damage to wood. It is possible to cure a tree from cytosporosis only by early stage diseases.
Bacterial diseases and their symptoms
Of the bacterial types, stone carcinoma is the most common.
Bacterial necrosis (stone cancer). You can notice it by brown spots on the leaves, which later turn into holes. The branches are covered with elongated-flattened ulcers. The buds either do not open at all, or bloom with the appearance of small, non-viable leaves. The drying process also applies to shoots. The tree becomes ill under the influence of bacteria that penetrate the tree from the soil through saw cuts and cuts. 
How to recognize viral diseases
- Plum pox. Fruits that ripen half a month earlier have poor taste. The fruit itself has characteristic somewhat deep brownish stripes and spots. The pulp underneath is dry.
- Ringpox. Why does a tree sometimes develop too slowly in the spring? It may have contracted smallpox. Watch the tree. With this disease, small leaves gradually bloom, sometimes unusual shapes. Unripe fruits with brown red-brown tubercles and rings fall early.
- Viral wilting. By seeing the simultaneous flowering and appearance of green leaves, viral wilt can be confidently diagnosed. The leaves become thicker and curled; covered with light green spots. The pulp of the fruit, starting from the seed, dies. The disease usually begins after budding or grafting.
- Ribbon mosaic. The leaves are primarily affected. On them you will see yellow stripes along the veins, which gradually form a lacy mosaic pattern, leading to the death of the foliage.
Among the labor-intensive methods of combating all categories of apricot diseases, one can highlight general measures of prevention and treatment and specific ones that relate to individual species. 
General methods of disease prevention
- Plant the apricot tree in the warmest and windless corner of the garden. In an area with high humidity plant on small hillocks to drain moisture.
- Use healthy seedlings for planting and proven cuttings for grafting.
- When growing, adhere to scientifically based technology.
- Systematically observe the trees, examine the flowers, leaves, trunk, bark, branches, shoots.
- Regularly dig up the soil near the trunk, saturating it with oxygen.
- Do not allow the soil under the trees to dry out or become waterlogged.
- In autumn, collect and burn leaves. Some microorganisms will die and will not cause harm in the future.
- Collect all diseased fruits from the tree, burn them or bury them to a depth of at least 40 cm.
- Do not plant apricots on soils where nightshades such as potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries or tobacco have previously grown. If this is not possible, treat the soil with antifungal drugs.
- During grafting and cuttings, do not forget to treat the sections with special antiseptics, and also your hands when you move from tree to tree while working.
- Fertilize trees so that they grow healthy, strong, and hardy.
- Preventively treat the tree trunk and the ground underneath it with a solution of copper sulfate.
- In the fall, whitewash the trees.
- Preventatively spray the tree and the ground underneath with copper-containing preparations in the spring before buds open, and in the fall after the leaves fall. Spray only in dry, warm weather and never during rain.
- Cover large hollows with cement or clay solution.
Features of the treatment of diseased apricots
- Spraying with copper-containing preparations. Bordeaux mixture - 3%, copper sulfate 1%. Treatment interval is 2 weeks.
- Please note that crops saved during the disease period must be processed immediately. There are spores on the surface and the painful process will still occur.
- If you notice at least one tree sick with cytosporosis or another disease, it is necessary to treat all the trees in the garden, regardless of whether they are sick or not.
- During apricot disease and treatment, avoid pruning trees. Wounds that bleed gum, for example, with cytosporosis, must be cleaned, taking 2 cm of healthy wood around the wound, treated with an antiseptic, and covered with garden varnish.
- As an antiseptic, you can use a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Fundazol or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- There are many antifungal drugs available all the time. Use them according to the instructions. Some drugs are used even during flowering.
- For clasterosporiosis, use 4% Bordeaux mixture or 1% copper sulfate.
- For vertical wilting, it is recommended to spray Bordeaux mixture on the blossoming buds.
Carry out preventive measures, adhere to general rules Treat apricot diseases in a timely manner - and your trees will be healthy and will delight the owner with a wonderful harvest.