Hydrangea is one of the most beautiful garden plants, whose flowers can be of many shades. There are different varieties of hydrangeas, but they all have rather large inflorescences, consisting of many small fruiting and several large sterile flowers. Hydrangea begins to bloom at the age of five, but sometimes mature plant does not bloom. There may be several reasons why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden.
- Unsuitable climate - hydrangea is a fairly heat-loving plant; transplanting to new conditions may experience stress. In an unusual climate, generative buds will not develop. Before buying a flower, you need to find out in what conditions it grew.
- Insufficiency of the root system: young hydrangeas have rather fragile and weak roots; after transplantation, such plants may not bloom for two to five years.
- Young plants do not produce flowers; for flowering, the age of hydrangea should begin at 5 years.
- Not correct pruning– if the annual pruning is incorrect, there will be no flowers, or there will be very few of them.
- Cold - the plant must be covered for the winter, acting carefully and carefully. If you do not cover the hydrangea enough, the shoots will freeze; if you do it too tightly, there is a risk of damaging the branches.
- Inappropriate feeding may be one of the reasons why flowers do not bloom.
- Poor soil - the plant is quite demanding on the quality of fertilizers and the soil in which it grows.
- Artificial stimulation of flowering - if before sale the flower was drip-fed with fertilizers to simulate lush blooming species, next year there may be no flowers at all. In order for the bush to begin to bear flowers, it needs proper care.
- At the beginning of spring - nitrogenous fertilizers for more luxuriant flowering;
- In summer - potassium, so that the plant does not dry out and preserves flowers and shoots;
- In autumn - phosphates, to develop frost resistance and successful wintering.
- One of these frost-resistant flowers is paniculata hydrangea, in conditions middle zone this shrub grows up to two meters. Its inflorescences are shaped like lilac inflorescences. The variety prefers slightly acidic or clay soils.
- Tree hydrangea is a plant with a height of one and a half to two and a half meters, one of the most cold-resistant species. IN warm winter it will not require covering and generally requires less care than other hydrangeas.
- Large-leaved hydrangea requires a lot of attention and does not tolerate cold weather. It can bloom both on last year's shoots and on those that grew this year.
- In addition to flowers, oakleaf hydrangea is distinguished by very beautiful curly leaves. It does not tolerate cold weather and can only grow in greenhouses or in the southern part of the country.
- cut out thickening and old (over 5 years old) shoots;
- remove the weakest branches, especially those growing inward;
- shorten last year's shoots, leaving no more than 3 healthy buds.
- If this is a temporary shelter in which they seat flower seedlings in the store, then the Hydrangea should be transplanted into a more suitable container. The pot should be wider than the one in which the flower is currently located. However, you should not choose a deep vessel, because... The roots of culture grow wider, not deeper.
- If Hydrangea has been in the same place for more than 2 years flower pot, then God himself ordered a transplant. It is the annual change of pots that stimulates the plant to flower.
- Improper pruning of bushes.
- Lack of moisture.
- Underdevelopment of the root system.
- Scam when purchasing.
- Incorrect transplant.
- Insufficient lighting.
- Frosting of kidneys in winter.
- Poor nutrition.
- No choice suitable variety.
- Diseases and pests.
- You should tie the hydrangea stems together and cover them with sawdust. After that all that remains is to sprinkle them with earth.
- If it is possible to cover the hydrangea with a non-woven covering material, then you should take advantage of this opportunity.
- Coniferous branches would be a good covering material. They will not only save the bushes from freezing, but will also increase the acidity of the soil, which hydrangea bushes love.
- Plants can be covered even if all the leaves have not yet fallen off. Neither pests nor diseases overwinter on hydrangea leaves.
- In the spring, at the beginning of bush growth, you should apply one square meter soil 25 gr. urea, 40 gr. superphosphate and 35 gr. potassium sulfur.
- With the onset of the budding phase, the supply of nitrogen fertilizers decreases. Apply 80 grams per square meter of soil. superphosphate and 45 g. potassium sulfur.
- The use of nitrogen fertilizers is important after flowering has ended. Under each bush, 15 kg of compost or rotted manure should be added.
Show all
Reasons for the lack of flowers
The main thing when buying hydrangea is to choose the right variety that can take root and survive in the climate of the region. winter cold. If the variety is chosen correctly, the lack of flowers may be caused by one of the following factors:
How to help a plant bloom?
Before purchasing, you need to ask the seller under what conditions the hydrangea was grown - in a greenhouse or in open ground. A greenhouse flower will need a long time to acclimatize, so you shouldn’t wait for flowers right away.
In order to speed up the process of the flower getting used to new soil When replanting, it is recommended to leave a lump of soil on the roots in which the hydrangea originally grew.
In the first two months, fertilizers are applied on average once every two weeks. It is better to choose a fertilizer specialized for hydrangeas, but fertilizer for azaleas and heather is suitable. A plant that has been drip-watered with the addition of fertilizers will not be able to feed on its own in the open ground - such a flower is weaned off an excess of complementary foods gradually, over the course of a year or two.
Landing rules
You need to plant hydrangea in early spring, after the snow has melted, but before buds appear on garden trees.
It is best to make holes for the bush about half a meter in diameter and about the same depth. When planting, the roots are trimmed a little; this is not necessary for young plants.
In the center of the planting hole, you need to make a small earthen mound and distribute it evenly. root system along the slopes. The soil is compacted tightly and then watered abundantly.
Mulching the soil is done in the spring before flowering and in the fall, before hiding the plant for the winter. The layer of mulched soil should be about 8 cm thick. For broadleaf and paniculata hydrangeas It is better to choose loamy soil with the addition of peat.
Pruning branches
In hydrangea, flowers are located on the shoots of the previous year, which is why, if pruned annually, hydrangea does not bloom. Although hydrangea grows quickly, inflorescences form only on healthy and strong shoots. In spring, you can prune dried and frozen branches, but you should not do this in early spring.
The best time for hygienic pruning is mid-April and early May.
Only dried and non-viable shoots need to be removed. You can also thin out the bush by removing weakened zero shoots. When pruning more than two or three mature buds from one branch, flowering may not occur.
Before the onset of cold weather, it is better to cut off all the inflorescences, but all viable buds should be left.
Correct bait
You cannot overfeed hydrangea flowers with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise it will freeze in winter and die. For hydrangea, fertilizers should be applied in the following sequence:
Young hydrangea may also need aluminum salts. Ammonium sulfate, fertilizers with super-phosphate, as well as specially developed fertilizers with all the microelements necessary for the flower are well suited for hydrangeas.
Shelter from the cold
Starting from the end of September, you will need to wrap the hydrangea with greenhouse film or lutrasil in two layers.
You can hide the plant for the winter starting in mid-October. Before covering the plant, you need to cut off all the inflorescences, leaving the buds. Plants under five years old are immediately covered with earth or peat, but old thick bushes can be broken in this way.
In order for the hydrangea not to be damaged, it is necessary to build a bedding of stones, branches, leaves and coniferous branches, and carefully lay the plant on it so that the stem and shoots are not damaged, secure it with ropes, and make an earthen mound on top. In the spring, it is necessary to remove the embankment, but until the end of May, in case of night frosts, it is necessary to cover the hydrangea with lutrasil or film. This is especially important for young plants - it will help preserve more shoots and viable buds.
Watering requirements
Hydrangeas are moisture-loving, but different varieties different lighting requirements: some species need to be planted in shaded areas, while others, on the contrary, need to be planted in the sun. One of the most capricious species are broad-leaved varieties - they require a lot of moisture and grow mainly in places with good lighting. It is necessary to maintain a balance between lighting and hydration of plants.
For irrigation, you need water with a slightly acidic environment; tap water is not suitable, as it will shift the balance to the alkaline side, which will harm the plants. You can water it with rainwater, or let it sit with tap water for several days. If watering is urgently needed, you can boil the required volume of liquid in an open container - this will help evaporate impurities harmful to plants and eliminate excess water hardness.
To maintain soil acidity, you can add a small amount to the liquid during watering. citric acid, kefir or weak vinegar solution.
In the hot season, the plant needs to be watered quite often and abundantly, about 20 liters per adult plant, but excess moisture must not be created - otherwise the root system will rot. IN rainy summer the frequency of watering is reduced several times.
You can judge the acidity of the soil by the change in color of hydrangeas: acidic soil the flowers have a bluish tint, white or orange on neutral soils, and when the soils are leached they turn pink or lilac.
Reproduction methods
It is best to propagate hydrangea by cuttings in early July and until mid-July; it is best to take cuttings from young plants. You need to choose shoots without visible diseases, not withered, with large buds. Cuttings need to be cut in the morning to protect them from drying out; it is better to do this from the sides of the plant.
The tops with buds must be trimmed, the lower leaves cut off and kept for several days in a solution that stimulates growth. You can make the solution yourself by adding a small amount of honey to the water.
After callus has formed, the shoots are planted in a richly moistened mixture of sand and peat, made in a ratio of one part sand to two parts peat. It is advisable to water the cuttings daily and also spray the leaves. In suitable conditions, the shoots will take root within a month.
It is impossible to propagate hydrangea by seeds in the open ground - it is necessary to grow the plant in a pot for the first two years, and then replant it in garden soil with all precautions. Experienced gardeners can try to plant offspring, propagate by layering, or divide the bush into several parts.
Variety selection
In order for the plant to show itself in all its glory, you need to choose a frost-resistant variety that will not die after wintering:
Before purchasing, you should pay attention to the presence of buds: if there are any, the plant has been artificially fed, and it will be more difficult for it to take root. If you properly care for the plant and provide it with required amount moisture and fertilizers, it will delight you with lush inflorescences and a variety of colors.
Hydrangea is often planted on summer cottages or in the front garden own home: her bush blooms beautifully and for a long time. But sometimes it happens that hydrangea refuses to bloom. Understanding the reasons is not always easy, since there are quite a lot of them.
Reasons why hydrangea does not bloom and ways to solve the problem
As a rule, the first 2–3 years after planting young seedling You should not expect flowering from hydrangea. Some varieties do not bloom even longer, but most are bound to please the owner at a young age. If this does not happen, action must be taken.
Wrong landing site
Hydrangea is a delicate plant and feels uncomfortable under the scorching sun. If on open place It will bloom, but the flowering will be incomplete: it will end quickly, and the flowers will not be as lush and spectacular as expected.
But you shouldn’t plant the bush in the shade either: hydrangea requires at least several hours of good lighting a day. If a shadow is created tall trees
, they will take away moisture and nutrients from the flower.
The best location is partial shade: in the morning the sun warmed and illuminated, and by lunchtime it was hidden. If you make a mistake in choosing a place, you should try to build a shelter. If this is not possible, you will have to replant the bush, but this can only be done with young plants.
Hydrangea is often planted near a fence that shields the bush from the sun in the afternoon.
The bush is difficult to take root
Hydrangea is a difficult shrub to grow: it takes a long time to adapt to a new place of residence. Therefore, at the slightest deviation from the rules of planting or care, it can “sore” for a long time, but then, as a rule, everything returns to normal. If in its previous location the plant is accustomed to one diet and watering regime, but the new owner has different conditions, the adaptation period may be delayed.
If this is the case, you need to wait, but not allow the plant to die, and for this it is better to feed it, gradually reducing the amount of fertilizer. And so that a change of place does not put the hydrangea under too much stress, it must be replanted with a lump of earth.
For a hydrangea seedling with a closed root system, the likelihood of stress from replanting is minimal
Lack of moisture Drying out the soil under hydrangea bushes is unacceptable, since it reacts to this very painfully: leaves and shoots wither, and the bush is no longer able to bloom. The bush may not survive extreme heat without watering. Hydrangea is watered weekly in normal weather, and twice as often in drought.
Hydrangea is moisture-loving; it requires watering once or twice a week, depending on the weather.
However, stagnation of water is also harmful, so clay soils When planting in a hole, be sure to place drainage. For irrigation use heated water sun rays. If you bring humidity conditions back to normal, next year the bush will be covered with beautiful flowers.
Unskilled pruning
Adult hydrangeas are pruned annually, but this must be done correctly. Pruning begins only after the bush has produced flowers for the first time. Proceed carefully when pruning:
In the fall, only broken, diseased and dried shoots are removed, and more detailed pruning is carried out in the spring. If the lack of flowering of a bush is observed due to improper pruning, the matter can be corrected: once you need to do everything properly, and the flowers will appear.
Even if you don’t prune hydrangeas in the fall, you should at least cut off the faded inflorescences.
Wrong diet
Hydrangeas do not need excessive amounts of fertilizer. This is especially true for nitrogen, which causes an increase in green mass to the detriment of flowering. Nitrogen fertilizers (urea or mullein infusion) are given only in May, they are excluded in the summer, and only ash is added in the fall.
You can even regulate the color of hydrangea flowers with various microelements, but this is a separate topic.
Fertilizers for hydrangeas are available for sale depending on color.
If there is an assumption that the bushes have been overfed with nitrogen, you need to add more superphosphate, and forget about urea and manure for a while - until next year.
Freezing of roots and buds
Even in warm regions, hydrangea is prepared for winter. The only shelter there can be spunbond, which is used to cover the bushes after autumn pruning. In other regions, it is necessary to hill up the plants, add a good layer of mulch and cover with coniferous spruce branches, and in the most severe climatic conditions- and roofing felt.
No matter how large the hydrangea bush is, it is covered with spunbond for the winter even in relatively warm regions
Leaving a hydrangea completely without shelter is dangerous; freezing of the soil can lead to the complete death of the root system. Partial freezing is fixable: good feeding and insulation on next winter
Over time everything will return to normal.
The most common pests that plague hydrangeas are slugs, aphids and mites. It is better to destroy slugs manually, and the rest are eliminated with various insecticides. Controlling pests on shrubs is not difficult, and it is necessary to do this, since they greatly weaken the plants.
Slugs on hydrangeas appear due to frequent rains and high humidity.
Among the diseases there are fungal ( gray rot, peronosporosis, powdery mildew), which are successfully treated with fungicides: copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture. Hydrangea is often affected by chlorosis: due to iron deficiency, the leaves turn pale and flowering becomes difficult. Feeding with iron sulfate corrects the situation over time.
Video: pruning, watering, shading - for better hydrangea flowering
There are many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom, but most of them can be easily eliminated. It is important to understand in time why the problem arose and take urgent measures so that next year flowers appeared on the bush.
Very beautiful lush hydrangea inflorescences can be seen in summer cottages and city parks.
But there are also amateurs who grow this plant at home.
And from the big one garden bush This individual is distinguished by its dwarf growth, when only a flower cap of a brightly saturated or pale color peeks out from the pot.
It is for the sake of this charm that this culture is planted on windowsills. But it happens that a plant refuses to please others with its inflorescences. What is the reason why Hydrangea does not bloom?
Did you plant the flower correctly?
You brought home a little miracle and are waiting with lust for it to bloom. But for some reason Hortense is in no hurry to do this. First of all, pay attention to the flower pot in which the plant is located.
Transplants should be carried out in the fall, using turf and leaf soil, peat and sand.
Soil acidification
Experienced flower growers know that Hydrangea loves to accumulate aluminum salts. The color of the inflorescences depends on the saturation of this element. The more acidified the soil, the bluer the flowers turn out.
An alkaline environment gives a pink tint, and a neutral one gives a white tint. When we're talking about For acidification, soil additives in the form of sawdust, peat or pine needles are usually used.
For the same purpose, the plant is sprayed with acidified water. lemon juice or watered with alum.
And only an inexperienced gardener introduces nitrogen-containing fertilizers as a nutrient element. Naturally, they stimulate the growth of plants well, but at the same time suppress their ability to bloom - all the energy is spent on forcing.
Temperature and lighting
Despite the fact that Hydrangea is a plant of the southern type, it is not worth all year round“bathe” it in ultraviolet rays. Let the flower stand on a well-lit windowsill, where only diffused light from the street enters.
In the absence of such conditions, you should not move Hydrangea deeper into the room - such darkening will weaken the plant and cause it to refuse to bloom.
The temperature for budding plays an important role - room temperature is considered optimal (18-22°C). But this is only during a period of active growth.
When the time for seasonal dormancy has come (from late autumn to February), during this time Hydrangea needs to create a cool environment (about 7-10°) somewhere in the basement.
If the plant is left to winter on the windowsill in a warm place, then you should not ask the question “why doesn’t Hydrangea bloom on time?”
Finally 
Flowers should be treated like women, giving them affection and attention. Don't ignore their whims, create the most optimal conditions for development.
And then Hydrangea will certainly reciprocate, giving her ruler a lush ball of inflorescences. And what color you prefer is up to you.
Many beginners in the field of floriculture often assume simple mistakes when growing hydrangea. Because of this, plants may stop flowering, and all useful material let the foliage develop.
Hydrangea is perennial shrub, which produces flowers of amazing beauty. But you can’t always see these flowers on your plant. When growing these plants, you should know why hydrangea does not bloom, but only produces foliage. This will help gardeners observe the flowering of their plants every year.
White flowers
Hydrangea has more than 80 varieties, and they can differ in a large number of characteristics. The main part of the varieties are small shrubs, 1-2 meters high, and the vines can climb to a height of more than 30 meters.
Hydrangea
Flowering plants begin late spring and lasts until late autumn. The main part of the flowers is white, but the flowers of certain varieties of hydrangea can be colored pink, red, blue and lilac colors. Typically, color depends on the acidity level of the soil.
Reasons for not flowering
Many gardeners, having decided to grow hydrangea on their garden plot, cannot achieve flowering. There may be several reasons, and you should know the main ones in order to avoid mistakes when growing plants.
Bush pruning
Hydrangeas, like others shrub plants, timely and correct pruning is necessary. It greatly influences the amount of foliage and the abundance of flowering. Improper pruning is often the reason why hydrangeas do not bloom and produce only foliage. This phenomenon is very common in large-leaved varieties hydrangeas.
As a rule, most of the pruning is done in the spring after the snow has melted. Work on pruning hydrangea bushes is rarely left in the fall, only the faded parts are removed. Spring pruning performed before foliage begins to form. Pruning methods may vary for each person. a separate type hydrangeas.
Watering
Hydrangea loves moisture very much. Even its name in Latin is translated as “vessel of water.” Watering for bushes should be plentiful. In summer, up to 50 ml of water is used for each bush.
Watering is done regularly. In summer, the bushes are watered twice a week. If the weather is rainy, watering should be reduced to once. The amount of watering should be adjusted according to the current weather.
Root system
Young plants that have only recently been planted in the soil have a weak root system. They need a long time to finally strengthen and begin to produce flowers.
Full flowering of plants begins only in the 4th year of hydrangea growth. Therefore, you should not panic if your hydrangea does not bloom immediately after planting. At proper care You can get stunning flowers every year.
Purchase of planting material
When purchasing hydrangeas, you should not turn to little-known sellers of planting material. Often, unscrupulous sellers may use growth and flowering enhancers. When purchasing, you can observe excellent flowering, but having planted such plants in your soil, flowering may stop.
The use of flower enhancers puts a very high stress on plants. Subsequently, such a plant will not produce flowers for a very long time. And in the worst case scenario, you may not see flowers at all.
Buy planting material only in established companies, and before purchasing you should carefully study the reviews about it.
Transplanting bushes
Incorrect transplantation very often becomes the reason why it does not bloom. pink hydrangea, but only gives foliage. Beginner gardeners can easily damage the root system, disrupting the plants’ normal metabolism.
Planting flowers
Also, choosing a growing container that is too cramped or too spacious indoor plants may lead to a slowdown in development and, as a result, the cessation of flowering of hydrangea.
Choice suitable soil is also very important, because a sharp change in soil composition can negatively affect general condition plants.
Lighting
The cause of poor flowering or its absence may be insufficient lighting. This is often observed in places where natural solar lighting not fully available.
To solve this problem, you should establish additional lighting using other methods or transplant the plants to places where there will be plenty of sunlight.
Pink flowers
Shelter for the winter
At severe frosts Flowering buds can easily freeze. Such buds will no longer be able to produce flowers, and all that remains is to cut them off along with the damaged stems. To prevent this from happening, the plants are covered for the winter.
Shelter for the winter
Feeding
Fertilizer application
For full flowering, hydrangeas need regular, but moderately dosed feeding. An excess of nitrogen fertilizers is the reason why paniculate hydrangea does not bloom, but only produces foliage. The flowering of the bushes stops, and the beneficial substances are used for increased foliage formation.
There are special fertilizers for hydrangeas. They contain a set of minerals and trace elements necessary for the full development of plants. You can use them as the main feeding. Before use, you should carefully study the instructions.
Selection of varieties
Each plant requires certain growing conditions. It is not always possible to achieve them in different regions countries. Varieties initially accustomed to a large number light and warmth, will feel uncomfortable in the northern regions.
Variety selection
On the other hand, a variety intended for cultivation in northern climates is unlikely to take root in hot regions with a dry climate.
Choosing the right variety is one of many basic conditions for the full growth and flowering of hydrangea.
Diseases and pests
Diseases and pests on hydrangea - a rare event, but even they suffer from similar troubles. The most common problems with hydrangea are:
They do not damage flowers directly, but can interfere with plant development, delaying the onset of flowering or stopping it altogether. To combat diseases and pests should be used modern means on biological or chemical basis, as well as traditional methods.
Knowing why hydrangea does not bloom, but produces only foliage, you can easily eliminate all the reasons that interfere full development plants. By putting these tips into practice, you can enjoy the pleasant flowering of your pets every year.
It often happens that a gardener buys a flowering hydrangea in a container, plants it in the ground - but it dries out and the flowers wither. Or after wintering, hydrangea does not bloom - neither in the first, nor in the second, nor in the third year. Why doesn't hydrangea bloom? How can you help the plant? Let's figure it out.
Why hydrangea doesn't bloom: typical gardener mistakes
The most problems arise with large-leaved hydrangea (garden, marcophila, large-leaved), since not all varieties of this delicate plant are adapted to our conditions. We will talk about large-leaved hydrangea.
Hydrangea buds are freezing
Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on shoots current year, buds are laid on the tips of the shoots in the fall. If you cover the hydrangea too late, or open it too early, the buds will freeze and the hydrangea will not bloom. What can (and should) be done? Cover hydrangea for the winter. The remaining leaves on the bush are torn off, the bush itself is tied with a rope, wrapped with covering material and film. Mulch is poured around the bush - dry leaves, straw. With the arrival of frost, the hydrangea is bent to the ground, fixed with staples, and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, the hydrangea is opened gradually, finally removing it from its shelter with the disappearance of night frosts, that is, until the beginning of summer.
Improper pruning of hydrangea
If you cut off shoots in spring or autumn large leaf hydrangea, is it any wonder why hydrangea does not bloom? We remind you once again that hydrangea blooms on last year’s shoots, in the upper part of the shoots.
Improper feeding of hydrangeas
If the hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the plant may not have time to harden by the arrival of frost, and, again, will not survive the winter. Therefore, to feed hydrangeas, like most garden plants, remember one simple rule: in late spring and early summer we apply nitrogen fertilizers (for green growth), in the summer - potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (to maintain flowering), in late summer - phosphate fertilizers(to help the hydrangea overwinter, preserving the buds of the shoots for flowering next year).
Problems with growth and acclimatization of the root system
First of all, this is a problem with large-leaved hydrangeas, which were planted from containers in open ground. It often turns out that hydrangea sellers feed the plant with fertilizers to make it bloom wildly, organizing drip irrigation. This hydrangea has a poorly developed root system - it is not used to getting food for itself with roots, but received everything ready-made with fertilizers, and on special soil. And when you plant it in your garden, the spoiled plant is unable to absorb nutrients with its weak roots, and withers before your eyes. Without emergency measures, such a hydrangea not only will not bloom, but it may even disappear altogether. 
What to do in this case? Correct the “disservice” of sellers and gradually wean hydrangea from bait. Firstly, container blooming hydrangeas there is no need to trim the roots, as is often advised, and there is no need to soak them or shake off the substrate. The plant already spends a lot of energy on flowering, and under such conditions the hydrangea will no longer be able to develop the root system. It will wither away.
Secondly, for the first two months, feed the plant, gradually reducing the dose.
Thirdly, when preparing a planting hole for hydrangea, make sure that the place will be shaded at noon, otherwise the garden hydrangea may not tolerate the heat, and even heavy watering will not help. You need to add a mixture of soil from your garden with a nutrient substrate from a container of hydrangeas into the hole, and in an area of at least 20 cm from the roots of the hydrangea. In this way, you will help the hydrangea adapt to new conditions.
Hydrangea variety is not suitable for climatic conditions
Large-leaved hydrangeas have recently begun to be planted in open ground in our area; new varieties are constantly appearing, which are praised and convinced that there are no problems with care. And then buyers, especially from the northern regions of the country, cannot understand why the hydrangea does not bloom. It’s sad, but even if all agrotechnical practices are followed, greenhouse hydrangea seedlings do not always have time to set buds for the next year during the warm season (if the summer is short). As a result, we get a gorgeous green bush, but the hydrangea does not bloom.
Don't rush the hydrangea - let it develop a strong root system that could nurture the color. For paniculate hydrangeas, this period takes about 6 years. In addition, hydrangea can bloom simply because insufficient watering, bad place, heavy soils, diseases and pests. Just carefully study the rules for caring for hydrangeas, choose a non-capricious variety (if you are a beginner) - and you will definitely succeed!